i went looking for the dream of africa. i woke up in tanzania. ♪

[ children singing ] ♪ i took a walk through this beautiful world ♪ ♪ felt the cool rain on my shoulder ♪ ♪ found something good in this beautiful world ♪ ♪ i felt the rain getting colder ♪ ♪ sha, la, la, la, la ♪ sha, la, la, la, la ♪ sha, la, la, la, la ♪ sha, la, la, la, la, la ♪

the narrow streets and neatly dressed schoolchildren of stone town make it feel like a very different africa than i've ever known. it's tight, small. the architecture speaks of many layers of a hierarchy long gone but still evident. the famous zanzibari doors, for instance, meticulously carved of mahogany and teak. the patterns reveal details of the original inhabitants' ethnicity and professions. brass spikes evoke similar doors in india, the lotus flower, the historically egyptian symbol is meant to promote fertility and chains a reminder that this was once a central hub of the slave

trade. ♪ >> what dansy zanzibar is today is definitely overwhelmingly muslim, 99% of the population, and you see the strong influence. the children coming from the madrassa, the streets are neat and private homes even of the very poor are maintained with great pride. the call to prayer. five times a day. zanzibar, part of tanzania, sits just 3 miles off the coast of the mainland. >> the minute the ocean, the

mainland. you feel like you're in a >> you feel like you're in a different country and different culture, different vibe. >> he is a native zanzibari and former tour guide, and he knows his way around these parts. so what are our options here? >> this is what we call mandazi. >> mandazi, a classic swahili treat. a fried fritter, spiced with cumin, tumeric and coriander. >> you want to have a coffee? >> yeah, let's do it. >> if you live here, if you're from here you start your day with some bitter spiced coffee, talk about the issue of the day. politics for one. maybe a pastry. >> mmm. >> you like it? >> that's good. so you're born and bred here. >> in zanzibar. >> how long has your family been here? how far back do you know? >> i'm half indian, half african, and my mother's been here four generations. >> four generations so that's starting out in --

>> late 1700s. >> wow. who built stonetown? who built this neighborhood? >> construction started in about 1813. the portuguese colony. we had portuguese, right. they stayed from 1846. they left in 1964. but they lost a lot of power in 1896. >> confused? let's take a step back. the persians were the first major power to set up here around 975 a.d., expanding their empire onto the strategically positioned island. then the portuguese used zanzibar as a hub for their slave trade and spices. then the ammanis did the same. ultimately with the british who ruled through them. 1964, revolution. as with most revolutions, the days following were violent, chaotic and ugly. after overthrowing the mostly arab government, reprisals. >> it wasn't intended for

revolution where more than 3,000 arabs were slaughtered, and a lot of indians were slaughtered or moved out of this country. >> but your family stayed. >> yes. >> why? >> there was no money for them in the family to move out. >> it wasn't an option. >> no option. >> stick with what was left. >> yes. >> tough times. >> very tough times. >> and about two hours from stonetown, this is jambiani, a tiny fishing village. here the first revolutionaries would meet and plan for an independent zanzibar. zanzibar's first president served until his assassination in 1972. this, too, is the president, grandson of the country's first president. >> what was the situation back then, political situation back then? >> it wasn't good. basically it was english on top. arabs in the middle and africans way, way at the bottom.

it was a form of apartheid, you know? >> was this village sort of a center for revolutionary -- >> this village was important in terms of the political support prior to the revolution with my grandfather and my grandmother standing right here an they had meetings on the field, right over there. that's where they would have their meetings, to raise support for the african and chorazi people, their identity. objective was to give equal rights to all people of zanzibar. of course, revolutions aren't the best things sometimes when it comes to peaceful transition. well, this is the house where they are preparing a wonderful lunch for us. [ speaking foreign language ] >> this is mwacca. she used to take care of my grandmother many, many years ago.

[ laughter ] [ speaking foreign language ] >> i'm looking forward to lunch. >> mwacca was a close family friend to habeed and his grandparents, and she's putting together quite a spread. coconut rice, freshly caught fish called tassi, topped with a broth of garlic and lime topped with a fresh salad of chopped tomato, eggplant, cucumber, and tomato. another fish, mackerel, marinated in lime juice and garlic then pan fried. >> now this is good. >> whoa. that's looking good. so coconut rice. >> yeah. >> chapati bread. >> yep. >> this is from the other side of the water there. >> that's it. this is casaba. >> casaba. three different types of bread. >> what a spread here. >> and you can use your hands. >> good. the fish i can do by hand, the

rice, i will need help. mm-mm, good. what do you think of the casaba? lovely. the rice is great, too. whatever your feelings on revolutions, it is probably worth remembering that they start in places like this. people talking. and when they are won, they're often won by people who sat at the feet of the original planters, people who look like this. >> look at all these kids. watch out, future revolutionaries. >> exactly. new ideas coming in to change things come from them. think about it. the challenges we face as a small island country, doesn't the whole world face these challenges? >> yeah. >> how to preserve all these things, how to find balance. to me, i see africa as a whole, i see very interesting times. >> hopeful?

>> i'm very hopeful actually. >> optimistic? >> i'm optimistic. i think the zanzibar people are great people. and if given the opportunity, i think they can put a lot on the table, not only for themselves but also for the culture of east africa and possibly even the world. i think they're great people. why not? [ thunder ] hi dad. she's a dietitian. and back when i wasn't eating right, she got me drinking boost. it's got a great taste, and it helps give me the nutrition i was missing. helping me stay more like me. [ female announcer ] boost complete nutritional drink has 26 essential vitamins and minerals, including calcium and vitamin d to support strong bones and 10 grams of protein to help maintain muscle. all with a delicious taste. grandpa! [ female announcer ] stay strong, stay active with boost.

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[ thunder ] ♪ say you're going to zanzibar and people will tell you about the sweet food. it's pretty impressive.

in stonetown's fordoni gardens, every night, vendors set up an insane variety of every variation of seafood snack. oh, yeah. i love some of that. >> we go some shrimp. we have octopus, calamari. we have scallop, shellfish, a mussel, a small shell, we have a tuna fish, mahi-mahi and snapper. >> good. i think let me try some of the octopus. >> with marsala spice. but it is not hot. >> i like hot. all right. give me some chili mango with that. okay. good. mm-mm. octopus, chewy, but tasty. lobster's working for me.

too spicy for you, man. nah, believe me. only one of us is going to be shitting like a mink tonight, and it's not going to be you. ♪ ooh. the famous zanzibar pizza, awesome. >> fresh cheese. mayonnaise with egg. >> sounds awesome to me. ♪ lookin' good. thank you. mm-mm. weird and wonderful and mm. damn. these stands are extremely popular with locals and visitors alike. so, of course, the government raised the rents.

one guy, juma, decided to pick up and move his place outside of town. his customers came with him. hey, juma, how are you? so, what are we having? >> your choice of beef on a stick, chicken on a stick, half chicken and all the spices and i'll order beef for now. >> beef, good, let's have chicken. >> chicken? >> yeah, sure. [ speaking a foreign language ] >> juma is famous for his chicken. the bird is slathered with a mixture of garlic, lime, coriander, ginger, salt and p pepper then it's topped with tamarin chili sauce. >> they come here at 6:30 and finish about 10:00. >> how many guys work in here? >> there's about six, seven of them. >> six or seven of them? >> all around the table.

>> wow, this is a big operation. >> okay. he's finishing the skewers. i guess he's half cooking or saucing. he's reheating, finishing the skewers. that guy just doesn't set up plates for him to top with meat, then i guess they got the bread and sauce and finishing to go also. what are they squirting on the fries? >> hot sauce, ketchup and tamarin. >> they say you never go hungry here. there's always food in the street. >> if you come here to buy 10 skewers, you buy 20 or 30 because somebody is always asking for food. >> right. >> and you always buy it. it's just the culture. no one says no to each other for the food. >> there we go. >> and you use the stick as your fork. ♪ >> hot, hot, hot. where do you think the recipe came from? this is a real mixed-up history here. >> it's mostly arabic, indian components. the spices, most of the trees like mangos came from india.

pineapples came from brazil. >> tamarin, southeast asia. not even india. mm-mm. damn, that's good. hey. this chicken's really awesome. might need some more of this. i like the heat. whoo. good stuff. incredible. ♪ >> the 250-mile flight from zanzibar across the water to the town of arusha takes about an hour and a half, but culturally you might as well be flying from texas to the philippines. [ bell ringing ] >> kilimanjaro.

into whose white peak hemingway's gangrenous hero saw himself disappear as he slipped into death. from there we head into the serengeti. ♪ >> a journey of this kind, one must expect the occasional setback. ♪ we reach the eastern edge of the serengeti where it's a steep climb to the rim of the magnificent angora-gora crater.

once a massive volcano that somewhere around 2.5 million years ago collapsed in on itself, creating this caldera, a true, lost world. inside the crater, and an entire ecosystem within an ecosystem. wildlife pretty much stay put. coming to drink, well, right below my place. it's nice. very, very nice, if you find yourself here. a hot bubble bath awaits after a long day in the bush. perhaps a dry sherry from a cut glass decanter. the next morning one rises to one's breakfast on the balcony, hot coffee, freshly baked

croissant. >> good morning. >> thank you, sir. >> you're welcome, sir. >> the rules of the house are slightly restrictable but sensible enough and given the luxurious surroundings and the view, hardly a burden. you're not supposed to wander around at night here unescorted, there's, like, elephants and hyenas and elephants and stuff. and while i'm told the baboons can get rapey, there were no knocks on the door. you know, i know what you're thinking already. you're not going to do what i think you're going to do, are you? you're not going to go shoot some beautiful animal in the brain? no. answer? no. what kind of sick [ muted ] wants to shoot an elephant? even the toilet has a nice view. this is pretty much what you see as you're sitting on the snakes. idyllic natural setting. and good plumbing. it's pretty much paradise.

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♪

it's nuts driving into the serengeti. after a short while, you actually get used to the "jungle book" scene playing out in front of your car. it's interesting to see the giraffe and wildebeest and zebra and they all seem to hang out with each other, no conflict at all. pretty much there's no conflict in what they want to eat. it starts with elephants, buffalos taking the big stuff out. zebras follow, then the wildebeest are the really close cop. >> my guard is collin mcconnell. a fourth generation. he lives in tanzania and knows this area like i know the deli counter at barney's. >> so this is the edge of the woodland here. every tree you see lying on its

side hasn't fallen over out of choice, it's been pushed over by elephants. there's an elephant over there. >> oh, yeah. whoa. >> a big bull. >> magnificent. will he charge us? >> nah. >> if we piss him off? >> if we pissed him off, he would. ♪ they sleep so soundly, these zebra, you can creep right up. >> zebras and more zebras. so many, you almost get bored seeing them. giraffes looking only slightly irritated to be interrupted. and ever more massive herds,

stadium-sized crowds of wildebeests. a concert of these unkept looking things every few hundred yards. all that's missing is a happy sack. >> everybody's come to terms that the wildebeest migration means wildebeest jumping into rivers. the fact that that only happens two months of the whole year, the rest of the year they're trekking through the bush. to me, this is so much more spectacular. when you see these big numbers. you'll be in an area this morning that was full of wildebeest and go there this afternoon and there's not one. they've moved. >> thousands and thousands of wildebeests on their annual migration are everywhere. a big circle stretched out across tanzania and into kenya in search of prime grazing. it's all about water, and grass, and a good place to make babies. >> i mean, look at this little guy. he's keeping up with his mum. >> he's doing okay. >> within 15 minutes of being born, they're up and standing,

>> really. >> running as fast as their mums within a couple of hours. there's a wildebeest that didn't make it. >> how old is that? >> a day or two. >> oh, really? >> yeah. >> wow. >> you don't want to get lost here. you definitely don't want to be on foot outside your car or injured, for instance. nature, as they say, is a cruel mistress. it takes care of its own without mercy. the evidence of this cruel math called survival is everywhere. not an immediate family, you're not going to help a brother out. >> no, you would think, right? >> start limping, first come the hyenas. >> the hyenas see the vultures dropping. >> right. >> and that's a key to them that there's some food up and the vultures really need the hyena to rip open the skin and start eating it. >> after they rip out your soft

parts, the vultures and maribou storks lovingly called the undertaker birds are waiting for their turn. i don't know about you, but when i have cause to think about hyenas ripping out the guts, i think, you know what, i could really go for some pesto right now. by lake mosak, we pause for lunch. indigenous specialties like penne with pesto, steamed baby corn, grilled tomatoes with parmesan and, oh, look, brownies. >> those hippos are coming in close. >> yeah. they can smell the pasta. >> they love pesto. they're coming ashore. >> you're safe. >> over thankfully cold beers, i learn who is really the most dangerous animal around here. yeah. that's right. mr. lovable, funny hippo. always in a tutu in the cartoons, a vicious, unpredictable and apparently incredibly fast-moving killer. >> you know, you have to leave here and go for a pee behind the tree and come face-to-face with this hippo.

the hippo would easily outrun you, one big chomp. big tusks go straight through you. chop you in half. >> just get between them and their mudhole, and they'll be all over you like justin bieber's bodyguards. it can get ugly. what do hippo penises look like? >> i have no idea. >> hippo never emerges from the water with a hippo hard-on? >> not that i've seen. >> really? >> they're under water. i don't go snorkeling. >> i find that comforting to know. ients. that's why there's ocuvite to help protect your eye health. as you age, your eyes can lose vital nutrients. ocuvite helps replenish key eye nutrients. ocuvite is a vitamin made just for your eyes from the eye care experts at bausch + lomb. ocuvite has a unique formula that's just not found in any leading multivitamin. your eyes are unique so help protect your eye health

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♪ they are among the last great warrior tribes on earth. semi-nomadic, they believe that all the world's cattle are a gift of the gods to them, the maasai people. they move with their animals across the tanzanian plains setting up homes where they find the best grazing. ♪ their cattle are everything, the wealth of the family, units of currency, givers of milk to live and on special occasions of meat and blood.

the maasai construct their villages or bomas like this as strategic hamlets designed to repel and discourage predators. >> you have a lot of livestock coming in here. a lot of the other migratory game. several have taken off. this area's quite famous for the cats, the big cats. >> the big cats -- lions -- roam free here, an area of the serengeti. >> it's a paradox. i mean, the lions are an enemy to them. they are a competitor, but they're also something they greatly admire. so, the map. >> swedish native angela janssen, a field biologist of the project is trying to find the identity of the maasai people and the outside's view of protecting these killing machines. this is what happens when a warrior defending his cattle

takes on a hungry adult lion. nobody wants this. for the maasai, being apprised of the comings and goings of the lion population is a useful thing. preferable to find out in advance one would think and take evasive action than the alternative. but remember, too, and respect that the maasai have always defined themselves and their identities by their enemy. a tribe of proud warriors. what happens when there's no one and nothing to fight? ♪ ingela has brought several maasai onto her team to show them up close the lions they share this land with. >> it's often on my days when i'm working with the maasai, you don't eat at all. you get a cup of tea in the morning and then if you're lucky in the rainy season, you'll get fresh milk or this.

>> this is a lumpy yogurt-like drink essential to the maasai diet. >> cheers. >> cheers. >> and before you say yuck, it might be worth noting that between their nearly 100% protein diet of beef, blood, and dairy, the maasai are known to have near superhuman cardio, olympic level cardio. they can run miles at a time without rest or water and can basically kick your ass at near any physical contest given half the chance. so help yourself to some sour, lumpy goodness. not bad. a little honey, some raisins in there. good to go. >> uh-huh. >> it's so different here. like the rainy season, dry season, such different challenges. what do you think of going on to here? >> i'm okay with it.

currently ingela has been tracking two lions in particular. ramos and pujon. >> oh, ramos is there. savvy. you see him? >> i see -- yes, there they are. i see them. wow, two of them. >> yeah. >> you like them, don't you? >> oh, they're magnificent. they're very admirable. he's a bit of a worrier, that one. should we try and approach them? >> yeah. >> when you go for lions, you don't never drive straight on them. >> right. >> you kind of go at an angle. that relaxes them a lot more.

it's funny how they pretend they don't see you. they're so completely aware. so, basically, what we look at to identify them are the spots. it's like their fingerprint. puncture wound on his face. that means he's fighting with a female. like if they fight with another competitor male, the wounds will be on the back. it's too dangerous to go for the head area if they're fighting. the reason for the collars, to see how lions behave to cope with threats in the area to show that lions and the maasai can actually stay together. they'll always live together. for the maasai, one of the diminishing things for them is the rain source. the same resource that the lions need. if push came to shove and one

part had to go, it wouldn't be the wildlife. that's bringing in far too much money for this country. >> right. >> so if they can show that they're actually fundamental to protecting this area and protecting the lions, well, then, it's the better for them as well. >> what's the total population of lions, do you think, countrywide? >> tanzania probably has 25% to 50% of the population of lions. it's an important country for it. the last estimate was 30,000 lions remaining. i think it's not so much the worry of the size, but it's the rapid decrease. we've lost large predators in the big part of the world. the world carries on. you would probably have other predators to take their place. you know, that'd be the hyenas, that'd be the cheetahs, that would be the leopards. of course, they couldn't take the big prey like the lion does. if you think about it that way, lions are a big show of an ecosystem that is healthy. they're important to that.

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just a few miles from the crater's rim, the ceo village. about 400 maasai live here. oladorup is the chief. he has 4 wives, 12 children, a handful of whom are old enough to be out looking after the herds. i was born in new jersey and live in new york. >> oh. >> you have a son in new jersey, yes? >> yes. yes. starting in one of the colleges known as montclair state. >> oh, yes, i know montclair very well. near where i grew up. >> oh, yes. >> look at that cloud there. there's going to be some downpour. you think it comes here? >> no. >> no?

>> not us. >> it's funny, they always know what the clouds are doing. the weather reports out here. >> the maasai have been migrating with the season since they came to this part of africa some time in the 15th century. long, long before the serengeti became a national park. and here we run into the kind of existential conflict we'll be seeing more and more of as the world decides what they value most. unspoiled expanses of nature populated still with magnificent, wild, but aggressively protected animals were the indigenous people. >> the aim for our project is promoting co-existence with lions. so when i came here to start up lion guardians, there were many among the maasai that were very suspicious. they thought this was going to lead to us being kicked out. that's a constant fear in this area. >> because in the past, they kill, but today we stop that.

or we can kill if no way. >> if you have no alternative. >> yeah. that's why we have the spear, we carry the spear for protection only. >> the maasai, they trust that we're not here to kick them out, that we're here to work with them. and we're foreseeing we're going to be able to start the lion guardian project. we hire maasai to protect the lions rather than kill them. >> with all of the cattle the maasai people have, how do you protect them from predators? >> the animals are very smart enough. if you do not bother them, they do not bother you. >> so, how about when they're grazing? >> uh-huh. when they're grazing we have people who follow. >> and that's enough to discourage hyenas or lions? >> yes, yes. but sometimes there are happy lions so they're loud to make themselves very happy. and the way to make is to say

woo! ooh! thus to make happy, you know? if you just like to catch something, you can hear very close only like rrrrrrrr, rrrrrr, and they'll stop. but that's a loud woo! >> that's a happy? >> that's a happy. >> no problem. >> no problem. >> but that purring one, the second noise, that's not good? >> uh-huh. that's the one that's not good. >> that's not a here kitty situation? >> oh this, one, must looking for finding food. maybe. >> okay. wow. my cat hates me. >> yeah. >> okay. this, a lot of you are going to find very disturbing. i'm guessing the little goat over there is about to get the bad news? >> come now.

>> i try and be a good guest. i eat what my hosts put in front of me. i try to take responsibility if something dies for my dinner. >> no, no, here. >> so when the chief asks if i care to do the honors and tells me how it has to be done, i'm not happy. in fact, as i close all its air passages, i'm struggling to not throw up on myself. >> yep. >> you know how to skin? >> not well enough. >> maybe i can show you and then i can --

>> go ahead. the ma ssai traditionally kill their goats by suffocation, for very good reason, it turns out, to keep the blood, which is a vital component for the masai diet intact and abundant in the chest cavity. >> they continue now to skin out. >> oh, good. >> and then -- a little more. >> everything's intact. beautiful. >> so all the blood -- >> it filled up the cavity and started to get coagulated. >> yes, yes. >> i get it now. >> easier now to take the blood out. >> right. >> see? >> i've never seen that. that's supercool.

>> some would like to drink fresh? >> sure. hey, now that -- >> it's good. ♪ people they eat this one fresh. >> that's kidney. >> yeah. >> just a little piece. deed done, it's time for a little kidney. enjoy the spoils, then party. sweet, actually. that's good. i like them better like this than cooked. s a redhead. you'd never know it though, because it's nice'n easy color so natural looking it's clairol's #1 authentic color that's always true to you. so shift a shade and still look like your most amazing you. i have $40,ney do you have in your pocket right now? $21. could something that small make

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>> that's smelling good. >> that's smelling good. i'm not too much of a meat eater, but this i kind of like, the goat. ♪ >> even on the serengeti, it ain't a barbecue if there ain't no kind of beer. >> normally the masai, we love honey. they have what you call honey beer. you drink it just very strong. >> love to try some. >> i noticed a palpable change in the mood. [ laughter ]

>> beer. >> welcome. >> asante. >> pretty tasty. almost refreshing as well. >> like a palm wine or kind of a pulpy-like taste. >> you can definitely taste the honey. >> welcome to our culture. according to our culture, everyone has to carry a big knife. >> every's ready. many aspects of their lifestyle and traditions remain unchanged. awesome.

this does not mean the masai don't have cell phones, by the way. everybody does. >> as we say, when we are talking about how can we balance this, because we're now looking to send our children to school, getting a good education, but we're still stay very strong culture. yeah, it's really coming like a hard time, but we continue. >> that's another question, when your son comes back from new jersey, you know, is your son going to want a motorcycle? is he going to want a car? is he going to want a flat-screen tv? >> i don't know what the future come. as you know, the children, they are greatly changing their mind. maybe one day come and says -- i don't know. [ laughter ]

>> it's beautiful, this country, this part of africa. geographically huge but not really. as the world and what we need to live in it shrinks every day. who gets to live here? who or what do we want to see, is for better or worse going to determine that. nearly $1.5 billion is spent here every year by people who come wanting to look mostly at beautiful animals. that's an amount that's hard to argue with and impossible to outrun.

for most of my life, libya was a word with bad associations. libya meant gadhafi. libya meant terrorism. >> pan am flight 103 went down in a blazing fireball. >> libya meant a bad place where a comical, megalomaniacal dictator was the absolute power. nobody in libya, however, was laughing. >> reports of explosions. >> clashes between rioters and security forces. >> in 2011, what was previously unthinkable happened. the libyan people rose up and fought for their freedom. >> heavy battles raging around the libyan capital. >> they fought like hell. >> the rebels are about to force gadhafi's complete departure. >> and they recorded the whole