good stuff. ♪ a petri dish for talent. for culture. the great unknown. go look. >> bx, home again. ha-ha-ha. -- captions by vitac -- www.vitac.com since i was 14 years old, i always wore cowboy boots. maybe because my little boy role models were always the men in the blo-- in black hat. rich boone, richard vaughn, silent killers. men with pasts. men from somewhere else who found themselves in the great american west. a place where reinvention, a new life of always possible as long as you were willing to kill for

it. ♪ ♪ the western myth has pretty much captured the american imagination. none of cuss escape it. for ages, we identified ourselves with the image of the lone cowboy, the perception of frontier values,

self-sufficiency, rugged individualism, the freedom of wide open spaces. few places in america still emfwhied mythic land scape of the imagination like the state of new mexico. there's an overlap between a whole hell of a lot of very different culture. old route 66 runs through new mexico like a collapsed vein right through santa fe and albuquerque. it must have seemed like magic once. families loaded in a massive chrome and steel chariots with powerful v8 engines and took off down that black top highway. they slept in whimsical motor

lodges and bungalows, swam this kidne kidney--- swam in kidney-shaped pools. then it went redundant. route 66 was decommissioned, chopped up, largely forgotten except by desperate and lazy travel show hosts. does anyone else at cnn do this, drive around 10:00, at night looking for tacos? the strip takes on a much more interesting look at night. you can imagine dennis hopper dismembering somebody over an unrole tarp in any of those sinister looking hotel rooms. cool. hopefully the taco is first because after you do that, you won't want to eat. in ancient times, drivers would hang the testicles of their enemies on rearview mirrors. in my humble opinion, taco truck of which there are quite a few. parking lot, the smell of mystery parts on a griddle, yes. could i have went ensada --

knowing my love of all thing mexican, you might expect me to be eating tab beotax -- eating tacos for the next hour. man, you tacos. come for the vistas, stay for the tacos. [ gunshot ]

>> 30 round per magazine of steel-jacketed destructiona fast as your finger can pull the trigger. you might well ask yourself why the hell would anybody need a weapon like this? the ar-15 is one of the weapons most revile by gun bones. it's also america's favorite rifle. >> never thought i will say a guy from new york is a natural when it comes to shooting an ah-15 in new mexico, but i'm impressed. >> we love them. there are about four million in circulation. those are the fax. >> basically it's a semiautomatic civilian version of an m-16. the funny thing is in relation, this gun is almost identical to this gun, but this is the one that's different. >> i'm an east coast guy, new yorker. i come from a place where

glimpse a weapon on somebody in a bar, on the street, it is reason for panic. here and in much of america in between new york and l.a., you walk into a bar, you see somebody with a weapon, it's like, that's my neighbor, maybe he's going hunting, who knows. most of the people you know own guns? >> everybody. pretty much everybody. i had a rifle before i had a baseball bat. >> meet jesse, bill, bo, and daniel. pretty much who we are talking about when we see the least stats on gun purchase in america and shake our hads uncomprehendingly. [ gunshots ] >> that cultural divide much more than policy is what's kept the issue of gun control so polarized and so, frankly, hopeless. >> he had a gun before he had a baseball bat. i'm in the same situation. i was shooting a b.b. gun when i

was 5 years old. i knew at it time it wasn't a toy, it was a weapon. i was very well educated by my father on the responsible use of that piece of equipment. and that's what's critical to me. >> i used to shoot all the time. i'm always trying to shoot better than i did last week. it's relaxing. you're out with friends. it's fun. >> there's a dark little genie in all of us, i think, that wants to pick up a gun, point it at something, and blast away. >> this is a new springfield arm. .9 millimeter with a 19-round clip. >> i like gun. i don't own a gun, but i like holding them. i like shooting them. >> 40 caliber. >> there is something compelling, an eerie rush, unohioly send of empowerment feeling the warm glow these these iconic shape in your

happen. get off my lawn, you kids. >> .357 magnum. >> bigger kick. >> little bit. >> you can't help silently mouthing "make my day" or "feeling lucky punk." could do this all day. whatever your opinion on the subject, fact is gun culture runs deep in this country. >> this one i grew up. i shot my very first twoirk this gun at 12 years old actually. that's a .22 rim fire cartridge. that is probably the type of firearm that most kids start off with. >> these guys, i'm guessing, are not people i should be worried about. they are nice and exceedingly patient with a city boy whoness to play with their guns. >> that is a.opinion 338 magnum.

-- a opinion.3338 magnum. there's a target up on the hillside. can you see it? >> now watch mr. new york city liberal shoot that target out there from 244 wind-swept yards. wow. now, am i -- accounting for wind dropping, distance -- >> yeah, you want to aim 13 mill mears to the left, four millimeters high and you'll hit the center. >> left? >> no, hold on. i was making you -- making a joke. >> taking advantage of the city boy. >> that win's got to be 20 miles per hour. holing the rifle without a brace, it's tough. >> all eyes are on you. no pressure. [ gunshot ] >> pretty close, huh? >> yeah. may have been a hair left.

a little high that time, i think. [ gunshot ] >> little right. shooting real good though, tony. >> you're not missing it by much. >> if you were real country, you'd be hitting it. >> e >> ecohail, squeeze. >> you're letting it surprise you flag. every time should surprise you, that way you don't flinch. >> that looked right on. that looked right on to me. >> i got to tell you, i'm proud of myself. i was like somewhere in the neighborhood. >> he's a natural. >> you think that people who don't like the idea of gun, they're out here shooting targets -- i suspect a fair number would at least temper their views somewhat. >> 1,000%. >> absolutely. >> you definitely get a respect

for the power of it for sure. >> generally speaking, me and these guys i think should feel free buy all the guns we want. it's the rest of you i'm not so sure about. i know how to shoot beer cans. in a zombie apock lip comes -- apocalypse comes, i'll be ready as long as they're holding beers. not rolling over your old 401k. cue the horns... just harness the confidence it took you to win me and call td ameritrade's rollover consultants. they'll help with the hassle by guiding you through the whole process step by step. and they'll even call your old provider. it's easy. even she could do it. whatever, janet. for all the confidence you need td ameritrade. you got this. why do we do it? why do we spend every waking moment, thinking about people? why are we so committed to keeping you connected? why combine performance with a conscience?

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so when i grew up, when i was a kid, i played cowboys and indians. the cowboy myth had such a grip on american self-identity -- >> i remember playing cowboys

and indians. it was part of the culture. you looked up to john wanye, steve income queen. kid, 12 years old, wouldn't even think about cowboys. >> this is david monsanares. his family has lived here for jep generations, tracing their roots to the spanish con teefddor. >> the cliff walls are 1 0 years old. the -- 160 years old. the one at the bottom, 220. all the way back to the triacic era. >> this is ghost ranch. this is the area where georgia o'keeffe spent the last and most productive decades of her life. >> now you've walked into her painting. but this is what she called my country. you know, it wasn't until i was in my early 20s that i even know who georgia o'keeffe was. grew up with her being like a grandmother. it took me going to l.a. and going to a gallery out there, i saw painting. like an idiot, said, why do you

have pictures of my house? she said, please, take a step back. that's georgia o'keefe's. it's just going to get prettier. it's just going to get prettier. >> one of o'keefe's biographers infamously described the land scape which captivate the artist as gary issue, vulgar, and in poor taste. which if you look around is pretty hard to friend. this is such the other side of the universe for somebody who lives like i do. people who live in cities for whom a back yard this big is inconceivable. the idea that there's a certain type of personality who's drawn toward open spaces like it. >> you know, this country either embraces you or in a year spits you out. >> we reached the end of our

trail at a place called valley of thieves, once said to be a haven for infamous cattle wrestlers, of course. they call it the rabbit. ladies, you know what they're talking about. i'm in my 50s -- i need to find a distinguished segue into adulthood one of these days. three generations here with me this evening. herman, david, and max. we'll do our best to put together a little meal. >> everybodi. some coffee? >> i'll take some of that. >> cream, inbound. >> what -- cream, inbound. >> who am i kidding? i need some cream. trying to get jack palance. who am i kidding. we're joined by jack, director of history, author of the book

"horizontal yellow: nature and history in the near southwest." how spanish is new mexico still? i mean, how powerful are the echos from sunshine. >> spain was in control of new mexico for far longer than mexico was. i think a lot of these mexican families are ten generation and 11 generation. when they look back on themselves, they think of themselves as spanish. >> those traditions, they have continued to thrive in these little pockets we're cut off from spain. so i once worked with some people from spain, and they kept cutting up. snickering at me. what they told me was, okay, you can knock it off with the don kquixote phraseology. the equivolen of me talking and saying top of the morning to you, sir. they said, stop making fun of us." i said, "i'm not making fun of you. that's the way we speak." when we see grandpa, that's all

he knows is 500-year-ago spanish. maybe he'll play like he did on the cats drives. >> i have a plan here on this meat. >> all right. the meat is yours. >> all right. good. ♪ >> just call me cookie. some cubed local beave, glowing hot -- beef, glowing hot coals, cast iron pan. ♪ >> pureed green chiles? beautiful. i'm going to throw nose and stew it for a couple of minutes. it will be good. i just need a few splashes of an open beer. check it off the chuck wagon greatest hits. we got some beans, some potatoes, some cornbread. we do our best. this is just about ready.

>> let's eat. >> dig in. >> well, we done good, gentlemen. >> no kidding. >> thank you, tony. this is excellent. >> i'm wondering, you guys have been here so long, your family. you live anywhere else? >> not me. no, not me. >> this is home. the roots -- i always get called back here. i visited paris and live in l.a. for a while and, you know -- >> sparz pretty great. >> it's pretty great, it's pretty great. but it's not here. >> i'm curious to know why you came here initially. >> it's open space because his grown up where you couldn't see 50 feet. i mean, the forest of so dense. i used to climb into the top ofa i tree on the highest hill just to be able to see over the forest. there was something about the idea of being able to the landscape that really compelled me. >> so the big help makes a real

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since before 1598 when santa fe was established as a province of new spain, grizzled frontiers men and hearty pioneers have come to this unforgiving land scape to eke out a difficult co-existence. welcome to santa fe today where we can all live the western dome and even buy a little piece of it to take home. you're going to love it. we eradicate the native american culture and in more politically correct time decide we love indians and all thing native american. we were kind of but not really sorry. and how much is that brick --

bric-a-brac? you have new age crystal times searching for purity and intensity in the beautiful yet harsh land scape. it's the last place in the u.s. you can wear buckskin and fringe without irony while holding a budapestive blanket. -- a buddhist blanket. there is buried deep inside this ordinary looking five and dime something truly authentic. hi, frito pie and a soda, please. this is the frito pie. as american as apple pie or the manhattan project, and nearly as deadly. can hormel chili and day-glo orange cheese-like substance drop like a deuce, a roller in the night, into a bag of fritos. it feels like you're holding

warm -- you would be worried, holing colostomy pie. it is delicious. neither the frito nor the frito pie are indigenous to new mexico. they were texan. new mexico you have many wonderful thing. let texas have this one. in a few minutes i've reach a depth of self-loathing it usual low take a night of drinking to achieve. combine with this with a binge to drink and a strip club -- ♪ a worm spreading glow fills -- a warm spreading glow fills my belly as a set out in my mighty ford galaxy. yet, i am also depressed. frito pie. i smell metaphor. speaking of explosive diarrhea

-- [ explosion ] -- did you know that the first-ever atomic bomb was exploded in 1945 in the desert of new mexico some sushi bars, galleries, reiki massage studios, crystals, we got 'em. i think i node to adjust my bend or something -- i see darkness in all of this. >> well, there are a lot of dark portents. >> all i've had is frito pie. >> this food will lighten you up, i guarantee. >> horseman's cafe sits next to a gas station about as far away from the plaza as you can get without leaving the santa fe city limbs. >> it has a -- city limits. >> it has a special feel of chilies grown special low for this restaurant and -- specially for this restaurant and nowhere else. >> i meet up with dan for

perspective over santa fe's most belove mexican fare. >> i've known people who have journeyed 300 and 400 miles to oat at horseman's haven. >> enchilada with carne, pork in mexican chili sauce, beans, and rice. got to have that. a stew from soaked hominy and pork. and sopapilla, a fried bread. did the early cattle railroad men and the people on the way to making this america, were they romantic about this part of the world? >> they thought of it as a hard place. for one thing, it was exceedingly remote. when you were here, this seemed like one of the father ever reaches of the globe. initially, americans began coming here because they

perceived that santa fe was so remote from the rest of the spanish empire that it was possible for the united states to pluck it. i don't think anybody becomes a romantic about it probably until the taos painter arrived. >> starting a long-running tradition of artistic pilgrimages to catch the spiritual groove. every kind of utopian dreamer, eccentric, new ager, they all came here in search of whatever. mm, chiles. >> level three? >> yes, sir. >> all right. >> we will be careful indeed. >> new mexico chiles come in reor green varieties. >> that's the, by the way, the state question, red or green. >> ordinarily i like green. it's like yanks or mets, you got to pick one. this green, however, is not ornary green. my face is burning off. this ain't normal. oh, god. this hurts. >> i'm going to join you.

>> def con 1, 2, 3. it's a slow roll. first you think it's going to be okay. then it's not. there's nothing to do but wait it out. i believe they use the same peppers in pepper spray. >> for repelling grizzly bears if it tells you anything. >> a shot of this will put you in the hospital. >> no kidding. everybody in the restaurant seems so calm. maybe they're not eating this. >> they're all just trying to muffle their skroems. helping protect that world takes state farm.

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history, they say, belong the victors. and here with the myth -- where the myth of the american west took root, where so much romantic lore began, history was being rewritten almost as soon as it happened. this of never the big empty. as dan flores writes, the idea of a wirness is itself a cultural construct. as early as 1539 when a franciscan friah reported sighting from a distance the seven cities of sibhola, these were interpreted as outposts of wealth, possible cities of gold. coronado, the famous contentdor, quick low dispatched -- c conquistador quickly dispatched

it, and there were cities. >> awesome. thank you for having us. >> the home of community leader ivan pinot in zia pueblo. i'm joining the family in a traditional hunt. >> we'll be carrying our shotguns, we'll be carrying our rabbit stick. we don't do this anymore -- >> it's harder. >> it's always good to get a prayer going so that the animals can be willing to take their life -- [ praying in native language ] >> the pueblo who lived here continuously since around 1250 amp d. had long before -- a.d. had long before the spanish or anyone else arrived a highly organized society. they built multi level adobe apartment blocks, farmland,

irrigated crops using intricate systems. all of this in who looked like a harsh and unforgiving land. [ calls ] >> this is good weather, though, for hunting because it's nice breeze, overcast. >> beautiful. >> not to hot. >> pueblo long ago learned to adapt the hard times, dry seasons, war, incursion. there were years when there was nothing and they had to deal. >> oh. we found a pack rat. our first pack rat. >> in preparation for the summer solstice ceremony, game like rabbits and pack rats are collected for the medicine man as a payment for his services. >> how you notice -- there are fresh droppings. >> you see the dropping, you know there's one around this time of day they're going to be any their homes. too many predators around. >> it's not easy.

once you find a nest, you got to dig after the little burrowing bastards. you hack, you dig, i dig some more. >> a lot of work for a small rodent. >> i was just thinking that, yeah. >> that's what our ancestors had to do sometimes when times got hard. right now there's this drought going on. if we didn't have the grocery stores -- >> right. hopefully you'll flush one cleanly -- >> ah! >> got it right here. >> right! >> and give him a good whack on the head. the ratio of work to protein is not in the hunter's favor. >> its whiskers, a little bit of his tail, and plant it back in here. >> to ensure regeneration of this once-ride is source of food, tradition and ritual requires returning a part of the animal back to the nest. >> i will never go hungry.

>> going for pack rats is really an homage, an acknowledgment of an important earlier time when that was all there was. the 25-year great drought. as a city boy, i am greatly leaved these critics are for the medicine man, and we won't actually be eating any of them. instead, linda, ivan's wife, is prepping a pretty traditional menu. >> nothing is wasted when the big game is brought home. we dry up and dehydrate the bone. >> deer bone stew, red chile stew docked with dried elk and potatoes, pinto beans with roasted dried corn, and tortillas. and of course more chiles. >> we call these -- this dish push around chile because you gather it, push it ron. >> push it around until you see the one you want. >> the chiles are magical.

>> not hatched chiles. the seeds have been passed down from generation to generation. they stay within the families. >> what percentage of young people leave and don't come back? >> not too many people will leave. >> really? >> no. people will leave, but eventually there's a yearning inside that you want to go home. you want to learn your culture. you want to be a part of everything. >> it would be an understatement to say that there's europeans who came into contact with indians. the effect was destructive to the culture, and given that history, how american do you feel? >> this is -- this village is unique in that we can easily just ignore everything that happen out there. and just keep to ourselves here. we do that sometimes. we close the road, and we take care of our own business here. but it really varies by individual. and maybe even by generation. we have a veteran, a veteran, a veteran, that all served in the arm forces. >> big tradition of serving in the military. >> yes. >> yeah? >> we continue to be

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injuries -- >> take her out into the desert, and they will bury her there. >> four kegs -- ♪ >> look up in the dark, the night sky uncontaminated by the

light of any nearby cities, you can see things. of course, you've got a rich tradition of actual real-life spocky scienceification -- spooky science fiction stuff. new york missile silos hiding beneath the desert floor, it's out there. so where are we? >> ground zero of where everything seemed to have started. >> submitted for your approval. noriel and his friend, jail. two men associated with the new mexico ufo and paranormal forum. >> this is where microamerica's rocketry actually started. >> the end of world war ii, classified units of the cia and army intelligence were busy sandbagging and sneaking away from probable prosecution, cadres of the world's best rocket scientists. did i mention they were nazis? yeah, many were sent around here. >> other very mysterious things

even took place allegedly in 1947. >> 1947 roswell incident. >> that's right. that's still a mystery. >> some say -- you notice how they say that in cheap re-enactment shows -- some say it was the remains of an alien spacecraft. anywho. back then they were working on some pretty cool stuff. in from, a mylar-like weather balloon designed to carry high-resolution cameras to the soviet union. in the atmosphere they will pancake out like a anying saucer. might that -- like a flying saucer. might that explain the we'll have and behaviors -- if one of these crashed in the desert, you can understand that a bunch of sinister looking body wiies wil tell people not to speak of the incident. >> it's hard to say, but any military could create a cover story for anything. >> any possible of cyborgs or aliens? >> no. >> i've heard that there is, and then i've heard there not? . >> we're taking you to a place.

and undisclosed locations what's known as albuquerque's own area 51. >> there will be no probing involved. every time there's aliens, there's probing. always with the proby. i don't not. if they've been coming for years, haven't they done enough probing? if we were from like ghost adventures, we'd be playing this up. some say that this area of used for sinister sparms. german speaking cyborgs. you need to find some crack pot scientists. this is better than area 51. this is like area 61. area 61 turn out to be a evented off view of essentially kierk -- a fenced off view of essentially kirkland air force base. >> the leading edge of military research, development, and testing. at night there's a lot of lights. it's a huge complex. >> fact is, there was and still is some pretty colostuff being tested out there in the desert.

maybe for darpa or nsa or the air force, who knows. you think -- do you think there are other life forms among us, or who visited this planet? >> yes, i do. >> what do you think? >> well, personally, i have a different opinion. this whole alien concept is a cover story in order to conceal a certain kind of project. but i could be wrong. i try to be a realist, but i'm open to anything. >> what's for certain and has been authentically documented on film is that somewhere out there among the silo, underground cities, supposed nuclear waste dumps and alien burial grounds, there is a large animal and a hole in the ground. what strange beast even now is being loaded into a grave-size pit in the desert for me?

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one of the first things any society learns to do is dig a

hole, throw an animal in it. >> yeah. >> cook it. they call it around here a metansa. >> one, two, three, up. >> it's pretty much an old-school version of a barbecue in that it involves burying a in pig and the imbibing of much alcohol. about 20 minutes from the nearest paved road is a place called dw ed dead horse ranch. people who helped are family, friends, and no shortage of new mexico neighbors. there's beer, plenty of it. local, dlish ourks and abundant. did i say that? -- delicious, and abundant. did i say that? there are tasty and lethal, as it ourn out, margaritas. i believe i made the classic error of moving from managerracy to actual shots of straight -- margaritas to actual shots of straight tequila. it does make it easier to meet

new people. why is it that any time an alien visits america there's always ainal penetration involved? >> i never heard it before. >> really? >> never. am i new to that? >> the pig, the pig. what about ma bothat body in th desert? some say the tradition dates back to when the eating of pig had to be clandestine. but a bit of history we can verify, this pig's been cooked slow over hot coals for the last 17 hours. >> i caught a peek of its ass. it looks delicious. >> frank here, he knows. he runs poncho's barbecue in albuquerque. >> start sticking to the patti guess -- >> time to get slicing. i step in, help frank break my piggy friend down into its constituent parts. beautiful. first, off go the legs. what you call your fresh ham. then the four quarter, shoulder and whatnot. the loin and rib second, pork

belly. nothing goes to waste. >> all right. the head. all those pig parts sent down the line to harold who's been using them for a veritable rainbow of new mexican specialties. none of our 300-pound friend will go to waste. he's getting shredded for tacos, added to the beans, cooked up with pisole, going in the chili, red or green. oh, yeah. that's beautiful. the tenner lion i set aside -- tenderloin i set aside for a little time on the grill. everyone here has put in work, and they're hungry. time to eat. i didn't know the show of about this, but i've been thinking about it a lot. the sort of cowboys/mexican/indian romantic ideal. of a lot of easterners came out and fell if love with the romantic notion of the west and wanted to come out and create

their own version of the west. of that a good thing? >> that's what helps us as a people, as a native american culture, as a culture that's been here for years. we invite you to come and to enjoy when we partake in. the indians had the beans and the chilly and the corn. the span -- the chili and the corn,. the spanish put this together. >> people love the native culture, the hispanic culture here. it wasn't always that way when i was younger. >> you played cowboys and indians as a kid. if there's one american iconic hero, it's the lone cowboy. does that have any resonance at all here? >> every culture here, mexican, spanish, pueblo, reservation, white, we all are cowboys here. >> i am a native american new mexican. i've gone through strange phases of my ownership of this place. it's a we're mixed bag of everything here all the time. and that is the identity. but it -- i don't know. it allows a certain freedom.

>> my desire to wear cowboy boots and put a hat on now, you're sympathetic to that. >> well, i'm from new mexico, and yes. i will like also -- also like to put my kicking bots and a hat -- >> very kind of you. >> tony, i got a question for you. what are you thinking of new mexico? what are your thoughts? >> i'll try to boil it down to a simple statement. if you were an eastern er and come to new mexico, you start to metaphors in everything. but actually, if you were to stretch a little bit, you could say that new mexico is a perfect metaphor for america. it is a total mutation. it's got spanish, mexican, original american, and add a tinge of radioactiviti, this is what america really is. to one degree or another we're an immigrant culture. we are a gun culture. the expression of american power and identity has always been the lone cowboy with a gun.

that goes deep. this is the heart of the american dream. love it or hate it. this is it. fire rips through you do by's torched -- dubai's torched tower leaving molten glass and debris in its wake. three teenage rain runaways may be headed to syria to join isis. a hunt to stop them before it's too late. and the theory of oscar winning. physicist stephen hawking talks with us about the academy awards. and welcome to our viewers in the united states and around the world, i'm natalie allen. this is "cnn newsroom." in dubai today, officials still don't know what