♪ miami sneaks up on you. or do we change and find ourselves sneaking up, washing up, ending up in miami? ♪ i took a walk through this

beautiful world ♪ ♪ felt the cool rain on my shoulder ♪ ♪ found something good in this beautiful world ♪ ♪ i felt the rain getting colder ♪ ♪ sha, la, la, la, la, la, ♪ sha, la, la, la, la, la, ♪ sha, la, la, la, la, la, ♪ sha, la, la, la, la, miami, it's a big place. bigger and more multifaceted than it's given credit for. >> miami, where you at? >> we tend over the years to focus on miami's -- how shall i

put this -- party zone. ♪ it's the kind of place we say that could never be me and then it is.

it's a temptation that's almost irresistible. the seductions of flash, of palm trees, balmy nights, television shows made real, but across the causeway a few miles down the way there are other worlds, older ones. i think it's safe to say better ones. ♪ way out west 20 miles from the airport tucked in yet another

strip mall is this place and you go there because, well, you need coffee and because cuba, respect, and because michelle bernstein is there. >> it was a long time getting here. >> you need a car in miami, and yes, this is like the heart of miami. >> michelle is one of my miami's most iconic influential chefs, born and bred her. >> when people say where did you grow up, you say -- >> miami. this is out west. you can't get much further west than this. >> what's beyond here? >> swampland. >> this restaurant, we would actually come here for the seafood and it would be elegant. >> well, you have the waiters in the little bolero type jacket things. >> or a bow tie and there's still some places in miami that still have that. >> this is how you drink coffee in miami.

>> what do they call this? >> it's a big cup with little cups. >> it is basically like the coffee version, the caffeine version of a one-hitter. i'd have one of those. at the next place, i'd have another. >> i grew up on the colada. we all give our babies coffee. they put their finger in it to taste it and they all grow up loving coffee. >> this is a nonjudgmental land, miami. >> it is. you can pretty much get away with almost anything. >> it's good coffee. >> i'm so glad you like it because a lot of people don't like it. >> really? >> well, because they think it is too sweet. >> you're thinking, yes, a cubano sandwich, but you'd be

wrong. this is not a cubano sandwich. close, a cousin. ham, swiss cheese, pickles, a little mustard and like a cubano it is pressed until it is soft inside. >> you see how juicy that is? >> you know what pisses me off? people try to improve on this. >> how is it? is it yummy? >> it's good. a lot of thought is given to the structure of the sandwich. >> it is all about the layers. >> yeah. this is the perfect breakfast, right? >> it's good, yeah. i always go for the salty. never the sweet. >> i don't care about sweet things. if i have to give up one course of the meal, dessert.

cheese over dessert any day. >> yes. i'd rather have steak ov over dessert, but maybe that's because my mother is from argentina. ♪ >> this is my world away from the world. to me, it's my little king's

domain. >> there's one place i keep coming back to. it's a place where if you look deep enough, ask the right questions, you can get a whole history of miami from one man. this man, matt klein. >> you're going to have to remember you're speaking to 100-year-old man. >> i know. you look good. >> raise your voice a little bit. >> you look good. if i look that good when i'm 60, i'll be happy. >> you know what the amazing thing about being 100 is? last year i was 99. nobody cared. >> he turned 100 years old this year. yes, 100. he's still here. the cigarette smoke and dark dank atmosphere pretty good for a guy that's seen it all.

>> that's 73 years ago. >> matt klein came from new york's lower east side by way of the battle of normandy. >> i came here pause i was wounded and the warm weather was much better for me. >> but there was a lot of g.i.s during the war here, right? >> they saw a world that they didn't believe. >> during world war ii, miami saw a massive influx of military personnel. hotels, which had seen a sharp drop in business, made a deal with the government to house troops in empty resorts. >> parents came down, sons came down, they opened businesses here, and they were basically jewish at the time and that's how it started. >> by the fall of 1942, more than 78,000 troops were living in more than 300 hotels in miami

and miami beach. >> how long have you been running the deuce? >> i took over in 1964. half of my life i've spent here. miami beach has turned over at least six times since i've been here. all i need is "miami vice." this was their favorite bar. >> it makes sense too. >> still, it was very flattering. the same as how flattering it is to have you here. >> i love this place. i mean i love it. it's my favorite bar in miami. to many more. why do we do it?

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♪ the dreamers, the visionaries, crooks, and con men who built miami envision many different kinds of paradise. a new jerusalem in the

infinitely expanding real estate, just fill in where there's water and you've got property. or as in coral gables, a new venice. gone doe las to ferry the new seekers to their palatzos in the sun. the dream was as expandable as the space. where there was water, there was now magically terra sort a firma. and in the 80s where there was decline, a vacuum, suddenly there was a new and vibrant economy one that raised all boats, shiny cars, swanky

nightclubs, and a new reputation for murder and criminality to go with it. cocaine. say what you will, cocaine altered the skyline of miami forever. it made, for better or worse, miami sexy again. >> going back to the very beginning, was miami always a criminal enterprise? but i mean that in a good way. outlaw culturism a very deep part of american culture. >> we don't produce or manufacture anything but oranges or handguns. we sell sunshine. the only jobs we have are in hospitality or in restaurants. >> real estate. >> real estate. it is all to sell the dream to the next people. >> in 1981 the fbi called miami the most violent city in america. the drug industry brought in an

estimated to 7 to $12 billion a year and that was of 1981 miami. that is a lot of trickle down. one of the most successful documentaries in the history of film is "cocaine cowboys" that tells that story. >> so things were in decline. cocaine sort of saved the city? >> we'd say so. am i going to get in trouble for it? yes. >> you had a murder rate. 25% of those bodies had automatic weapons bullets. >> we talk about the uncomfortable reality of where a lot of the modern miami came from over something you just have to hit hard in miami when in season. stone crabs. >> federal reserve branch in miami had a $5 billion cash surplus.

mostly 50s and 100 dollar bills all of which had trace elements of cocaine on them. >> and the guys in cocaine trafficking got out and are now big medicare fraudsters. >> we're whispering because they're probably here. >> so where's the money now? how's business in general in miami and where is that business coming from? >> remarkably the rebound from the great recession, the people thought it would take a decade and it seemed to happen almost overnight. we're in the middle of another huge boom. who is buying? wealthy foreigners. a lot of capital russians. >> if it is money looted from another country, do we care? >> the question is how long will

it last? >> there's history and there's the more immediate needs of the present. i need food presently and perhaps some fine bourbon and when i need good food in a city not my own, more and more these days i call somebody if they weren't good at enough things already has become something of an expert on food around the world. >> every time i check instagram you're eating with one of my culinary heros. i'm here. >> you've been to this place before? >> i live at this place. >> really? >> yeah. >> yard bird quickly became a miami favorite.

>> the old joke was james brown was the hardest working man in show business. you make him look lazy. producer, a teacher. >> yep. >> a d.j. >> technically, i have 16 jobs right now. >> devilled eggs with fresh dill and trout roll will be so over next year, but right now i want more. fried beans with pork belly. this is the perfect thing for a guy looking to squeeze into a size 28 speedo tomorrow and hit the beach. >> what makes the miami sound different from the detroit sound, the philadelphia sound, the new york sound, whatever? >> you can't say philadelphia has strings in their arrangement whereas records had organ in

there. >> what's called 77 elvis pancakes? chocolate chip pancakes, bourbon maple syrup, banana compote. >> yard bird's signature fried chicken comes with spiced watermelon and cheddar cheese waffles. they brine the chicken 17 hours to be exact. tender inside and perfectly crispy on the outside. >> to me, i like waffles and i like chicken, but i don't understand waffles and chicken together. >> you still don't understand? >> i understand people deeply love them and i do like waffles and i do like fried chicken. put them on separate plates and i'm okay. >> you don't want your food

integrated? >> shrimp and grits, a southern classic. >> i was reading your book. is it curtis mayfield you have bad associations with? >> whenever i hear curtis mayfield, just as a kid, that particular structure always frightened me. >> even now? >> i'm angry that that band ever existed. i hate that old englishy, old, bar minstrel, stand on one leg mother [ muted ] shit. you never know when you play music were they molested by a rodeo clown to that song and he's my version of that.

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who got here first? who other than say some early native american tribes and spaniards? caribbean blacks, bahamian.

henry morrison flagger, the tycoon largely credited with big the father of modern florida. his dream was the florida east coast railroad, which would run from jacksonville to key west connecting the ports of miami to the rail system of the rest of the united states, creating along its route new towns, new cities, new places where america's rising middle class could frolic and play. as more and more whites moved in, segregation took hold and much of the community was forced into the black neighborhoods like overtown. if you're looking for old miami, original miami, you're looking

to an extent for black miami. ♪ these days liberty city is mostly ignored by developers, but back in the day it was the epicenter of the black community. a lot has happened since then. >> pancakes, smoked sausage, boiled eggs. >> what do you usually get? >> the fishy grits. >> your parents were jamaican and bahamian.

>> yes. >> today i'm having fish and grits at mlk restaurant with this guy, luther campbell. >> a lot of good cooking tradition in the family. >> oh, yeah. one night we'd have peas and rice. the other night we'd have rice and peas. >> otherwise known as luke sky walker. he is something of a musical and political and legal legend. maybe you know him from campbell versus rose music. >> how do you end up different growing up in miami than you would have grown up in l.a. and new york? >> a lot of people would have said southern people, whatever you want to call us, in

actuality we're a bahaman town. >> very, very different. how has that mix, how has that impacted the music? >> when people think about me, this guy makes bootie shaking music. everybody is dancing in a sexual way. the girls are standing up on you. the girls stand up on you and put your butt on you. >> i've seen this on television. >> it's no different than a lap dance. >> you ran for office? >> yeah. >> about 70% residents of miami speak spanish at home. >> uh-huh.

>> enormous african-american and caribbean community. how come they keep electing conservative white guys? >> you have a whole quiet community. you didn't get them excited about voting. >> it is the opposite of get out the vote program. it is don't bother to vote. >> don't bother to vote. african-americans voted at 20%. if we would have voted at 50%, charlotte gris would have won the governor's race. >> if you were selling miami to somebody, what's the best thing about miami? >> best weather. >> how do you handle the cold if you have to tour or something in detroit or chicago or something? >> my mind-set is i don't have to deal with this every day. i'm going back to sunshine. i can go into a blizzard. i know i'm going out. y'all stay. >> this is really good.

>> back inland, another world of flavors. little haiti. just in case miami didn't have enough tasty stuff from elsewhere. the band m market is tucked away in the back. they serve some of the dishes they make me happiest, jerk chicken, who doesn't love that? cow-foot soup. >> that looks, by the way, unbelievable. that's so good. what's the best thing about miami? >> the mix of cultures. >> what's the worst thing? >> you know what really pisses me off? i walk down the street and i say hi to people and i don't get a hi back a lot here. >> to what do you attribute this? >> the transient part of it. people don't feel rooted.

they are from south america, central america. their whole plan is to come here do what they can to send money to their family to live in the home of their dreams and then go back. >> if i were to think about coming to florida to live, what would seem attractive to me, find some place on the beach and just sink in until my liver-spotted george hamilton face, walk up and down metal detecter, that would be me. people who go to live that dream, they don't go to the beach. >> ask me when the last time i went to the beach was. >> when was the last time i went to the beach. >> about a year and a half ago. >> what the [ muted ] is that?

>> we're working. i love it and i always say i will never live in south florida if i didn't live near water. i live near water and i leave my doors open a lot, but i don't go to the beach. i barely even go into my swimming pool, but i know it's there. >> okay.

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♪ ♪ standing here in the rain trying to wash away my singing ♪ ♪ baby gone and left me i don't think she's coming back again ♪ >> before "miami vice" before the miami sound machine, there was a miami sound. the music, the original miami sound we're talking about, came from this man, willie clark and this space. >> what was this space originally? >> this was a little restaurant smaller than this and we were on the other side with the record shop. >> now it looks like a nondescript barbecue joint, but back in 1963 it was the home of

deep city records. willie clark and his business partner johnny peersol started deep city. the label became a showcase for artists like betty wright, frank williams and the rocketeers. >> it is a very, very long list, an amazing list. >> it is about 1200. >> 1200 songs. >> it just flows. i'm like a song mechanic. you bring it to me. i'll help you fix it. >> william and his writing partner wrote such classics as "clean up woman" and "rocking chair." >> 50 years, 100 years from now, if you were to do an internet search and punch in the miami sound, your name is going to come up right away as principal

creator of the miami sound. what were the distinctive features of the music you were making that separated it from motown, philadelphia, new york? >> the culture was a mixture of bahamian, jamaican, and people came down from georgia and alabama, but that bahamian influence was dominant. >> right. >> we would have bands who would march from overtown all the way to liberty city and back in big parades. this influence, the dancing and the moving and the marching, that was the main difference. >> and you were teaching school through a lot of this? >> yeah, i was teaching. i would look around, put my sign in, and walk out the back door and go straight to the studio. but you know, the principal knew

what i was doing. >> yep. >> i did most of the deep city music using that technique. ♪ ♪ if only i could fly i would take to the air ♪ >> you're still out there so your songs are still being played, still being sampled, which is good. >> it weren't for the samples, i don't know what i'd do. >> the collectors must go crazy. maniac collectors in europe and japan. >> if i had known back then, i guess we would still be over there. biggest motown or bigger. >> this is an island, isn't it? it is kind of an island.

>> it is worse than an island. ♪ darling i'm willing to forget about our past ♪ ♪ darling i'm able to make our love last ♪ ♪ i'm a one man's woman and i'm willing and able to be loved ♪ ♪ oh yes i am yeah yeah yeah we all enter this world

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another day, another country. miami is like that. you can eat your way across the caribbean and through all of latin america and then over to africa, if you'd like. it's all there. if you know anything about me, you know i love few things more than big, new, unusual, comes from somewhere else, mutant versions of the giant hamburger and this one, this one is something special. >> this is a tall venezuelan. it is all about a lot of sauces. we're going to do this. absolutely, right?

okay. >> what is this neighborhood? >> some people call it petite venezuela, and yeah, you're way west. you'll pretty much hear everybody here speak spanish. there's almost no english spoken. >> even if they are not latin. you have to speak spanish. >> meat on meat is something of a venezuelan specialty and this one has a lot. a beef patty, ham, egg, six varieties of sauces, potatoes and cheese. this one is big, big i tell you. you have to demolish it in stages like a hyena devouring an

antelope by the hoof. >> i'm going to start crying. all right. i'm going in. good god. >> yes or no? >> it's delicious, but -- >> it's a little much, right. >> there's no way this thing is holding together until the last bite. >> all right. i can't even get the whole thing. that's ridiculous. >> this is open until 4:00 a.m. there's definitely a time of day when that seems like a perfectly reasonable idea. >> if you drink too much, this will pretty much take care of everything that ever ailed you. >> long a refuge for people all over the caribbean basin and latin america, it was long a mecca for americans who wanted to get off the grid.

you'll remember travis, the mystery solving boat bum who lived on a houseboat in miami. people used to live like that. less and less today. >> when my wife passed away a few years ago, i was living in a condo and didn't want to do that anymore. now i'm on this piece of iron. >> bob, aka captain bob, is still here and still living on his boat in the miami river. >> we sit out here and we look like we're enjoying ourselves, but it is really hard work. just sitting here looking pretty, it's not for everybody. but yeah, it's a good life. >> i've had many friends over the years who live on boats, work on boats, but these were just deginratewind a wind addic.

>> i wanted to go down to the bahamas and get the boat to earn its own keep. >> the steel hauled achievement doesn't do much moving around these days, but it might have to soon. >> who else lives like you? >> it used to be very common. it is getting scarcer. >> how long do you think you've got? >> six months, a year? >> yeah. >> we sit here and watch them put the buildings up and they're -- >> coming closer. >> -- creeping this way. >> you're not moving onto land anytime soon if you can avoid it? >> no. here life keeps flowing by. i wave and keep on keeping on. i wave and keep on keeping on.

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♪ miami's the kind of place you say that could never be me. and then it is.

so you've been here how many years? >> 15 years. >> 15 years. you're a floridian. >> yeah. >> when i was young, this man was a role model, an ideal, a roadmap for bad behavior. his music, it turned out, was the soundtrack for most of my life. still is. james osterburg of muskegon, michigan, known still all over the world as iggy pop. you grew up in michigan, you lived in new york for a long period of time. >> i went from michigan to lond london. i went from london to hollywood which was rough. hollywood to berlin which was great. back to london. and new york from '79 to '99. >> was it a conceivable option at any point, i can live in florida? >> it wasn't for me. i was hustling. hustling in a big city.

it happened by chance. i had a shady friend who owned a condo here, and thought, well, this is a nice little trashy hang. you could just pull up to the beach any time you wanted and look out and see the end of complications. and anybody could do that and it was safe and free. and i thought, that's a -- this is beautiful. ♪ >> so we're eating healthy today. >> yeah. >> what do you like here? i wouldn't have thought back then in my dorm room that all those years later i'd be eating healthy with iggy pop. barbecue shrimp for the godfather of punk. i get wild and crazy with some roast pork. a little white wine, our only tilt toward the debauches of

previous lives. i well remember the first stooges album coming out, the context of the time. this was, what, '69? >> '69, august. >> in a lot of ways as far as looking after my health, your music early on was a negative example. >> i hear you. >> and looking at my own life and career, i'm pretty much known for traveling around the world and recklessly drinking and eating to excess. >> sure. >> what does it say about us that you're now sitting in a healthy restaurant? i just came from the gym. and we're in florida. >> listen, if you just flamed out, you're in -- you know, you're in such voluminous and undistinguished company and all your works will flame out quicker with you. ♪ >> what's the perfect day in miami? >> it's a clear morning. hot. hot and humid. no moderate or any of that crap. no. hot, hot, humid.

the sun comes up in a hazy tropical orange orb, and you're not working. you're not on a schedule. and you have no meetings, but you have somebody fun to spend the time with. and then you would go to the beach when the sun isn't right overhead yet because the beach faces east, the sun sparkles on the water. and the sparkle is very nice. so, positive. ♪ >> you're the template for the rock star, meaning other rock stars sort of look to you to figure out how should i behave? along with that, look, even at its -- even if you're broke, you're a guy at various points in life has pretty much been able to have a lot of things

ordinary people would never have. you've had many, many adventures. >> i know -- >> given that, what thrills you? >> the nicest stuff right now, this is very embarrassing, but it's really -- being loved. and actually appreciating the people that are giving that to me. ♪ i don't see any birds at all here today. it's so quiet. >> is this the reward faephase your life or just -- >> it's been emotionally i think a reward phase for stuff i did

up until the age 30. stuff you had to do on instinct and not on intelligence. >> see, i think you deserve it. but when i look at my own life, you know, i'm actually -- i'm ambivalent. i mean, i'm still not so sure. you know? >> i'm still curious. you seem like a curious person. >> it's my only virtue. >> curious is a good thing to be. it seems to pay some unexpected dividends. ♪ i am a passenger and i ride and ride ♪ ♪ i ride through the city ♪ i see the stars come out of the sky ♪ ♪ so let's ride and ride and ride and ride ♪ >> i guess that's what it comes down to. all of it. right here. write a book, i get a tv show, i live my dreams, i meet my hero.

two old men on a beach. ♪ singing la, la, la, la, la, la, la ♪ ♪ la, la, la, la, la, la, la so whee'll be in in five minutes or less. you have all your money? >> i need to use my computer bag because i don't have a backpack or anything. >> so it doesn't look like a giant bag of money. okay. >> i have my phone on me so i can call you if i'm getting robbed. >> i'll drop you off behind this guard. hopefully he's here. i got to tell you, i don't see him. >> i don't either. don't really know what to do if the security guards aren't there. i don't know who to go tell that i've got a bag full of cash i need to pay taxes with.