i live my dreams, i meet my hero. two old men on a beach. ♪ singing la, la, la, la, la, la, la ♪ ♪ la, la, la, la, la, la, la everything changes. nothing changes at all. ♪ i took a walk through this beautiful world ♪ ♪ felt the cool rain on my shoulder ♪ ♪ found something good in this beautiful world ♪

♪ i felt the rain getting colder ♪ ♪ sha, la, la, la, la, la, ♪ sha, la, la, la, la, la, ♪ sha, la, la, la, la, drinking at 4:30 in the afternoon, it's the perfect time when the light is just right. it's important. also it's not too crowded. it's quiet. a man can have a drink, a pint, in a dignified fashion free of care.

>> ice, son? >> no, thank you. >> here you go. >> thank you so much. >> so you're on holiday? >> sort of. >> it's your first time in glasgow? >> no, i've been here a number of times before. i haven't been in this pub before. oldest in -- >> 1510. >> 1510, amazing. >> from my very first time, it was glasgow. my favorite city in scotland. one of my favorite cities on earth. it was going to say one of my

favorite cities in europe, but is glasgow europe? i don't think so. it feels somehow older than that. to many outsiders, glasgow is seen as a hard scrabble, even fearsome place, a place that history has moved on from, but there is definitely a sense here that something different is around the corner. >> it'll be one of the most important events in scottish and british history. more than 4 million people will decide whether scotland should stay in the u.k. or become an independent country. >> will scotland stay or will it leave the union? >> scottish independence could mark the beginning of the end of the u.k. as we know it. >> but in the end, 55% of scots voted to stay in the union. that left almost half the population still hungry for independence. and with 17.5% of teenagers voting yes, england had its undies in a bunch over the possibility of an unraveling

scotland. >> glasgow is a gutsy city. different outlook. new generation, but i still hear the cries of yesterday. >> why does the possibility of independence have such a powerful hold on glasgow? the past. glasgow has long endured, among other things, a reputation for being the most violent area in the u.k. it's a familiar cycle, amalgous in many ways to what we see elsewhere. hard times, unemployment, a general sense of apathy that the

government can't or won't fix what's broken, that in the corridors of power of london, they just don't give a shit about glasgow. especially glasgow's east side. like most cities, glasgow is divided. the river divides the north and south sides, but the bigger more tangible divide is between east and west. the west, things are expected to be, well, nice. nice cars, nice families, all the nice stuff that affluence supposedly brings. east side, that's where you grow up hard, where things are rougher, where you've got, according to popular legend, to fight to live every day. >> in scotland, if you're a young boy in scotland and you're 9 or 10 and you're coming home from school a big guy beats you up and you run home crying to your mother, you know what

she'll do? she'll give you a cuddle and then she'll tell you get back there and get him. don't let anybody ever do that to you. that's what we do. and it makes us dangerous enemies, resourceful enemies, but it also makes us very loyal allies. >> detective john karnish, 38 years on the job. much of it is murder police on the east side. he's seen it all. confronted with violent hooliganism, the traditional approach has been to get out there, bust some heads, lock up some perpetrators. but after decades of dealing with generation after generation of violence, he took a controversial new tactic. along with a colleague, he

established a new unit called the violence reduction effort and focused their efforts on the social problems he felt led directly to violent crime. as of 2014, scotland is at a 40 year low of violent crime. when in town, though, he likes to come here -- typical scottish fare, mother india -- for a curry served in spicy gravy served with traditional non-scottish bread. >> i know glasgow is a traditionally tough town. i've always seen it as a warm and welcoming place. do you think the town's reputation is deserved or is this a -- >> nope.

i mean in terms of labeling the violence, the fights are the fights. but statistically, if you don't live or come from glasgow, your chances of being a victim of a violent attack in glasgow is something like .000. >> i've done a fair amount of stupid behavior here, a fair amount of drinking, a fair amount of putting myself in the sort of situations they advise visitors to a new town not to take. i've never felt uncomfortable here. i could be wrong in that after a few drinks i notice that i don't understand anyone. they could be making various threats of violence to me at the bar, and i could just be smiling and nodding. >> indian food is, of course, huge here as it is everywhere in the u.k. you could venture to guess that the cold, damp weather causes

the heart to yearn for food from spicy climates. that whole takeover india thing. all i can say is pass this. >> so how do you reduce violence? i mean traditionally we would just get more police, crack some skulls, and problem solved. a good number of americans probably still believe that very much. we're very fond of throwing people in prison. to suggest otherwise would be seen as coddling criminals. >> absolutely, and it was the same here. we started to think about it in entirely different ways. violence is a public health issue. we all have the capacity for violence. people at home learn not to be violent.

things that happen then will effect their whole life course about how they make decisions about themselves and how they judge risk. no matter how good the police service is, it will just contain and manage the problem. it won't make it better. >> first of all, it's not what i expect to hear from somebody who spent 30 years with murder police, busting heads with people, that we should hug these bastards more -- >> yes, absolutely. >> everything you've said -- >> this is going to take a generation. they go, oh, politicians don't have a generation. >> they're worried about the newscast on monday at 6:00. >> the headlines, absolutely. we don't have it sorted here, but we're on a journey. >> so what's going right here? this is one of the most awesome cities anywhere. >> people.

i say we can't keep doing this. let's try something different. is ♪

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look, i don't want to give you the impression that glasgow is an impoverished wasteland filled with violence and hooligans. let's face it. detroit or new orleans, most american cities make this town

look like club med by comparison. glasgow remains the region's noble shit zone. what i find most endearing in this town is if you're a native, you're probably an expert at taking a piss. >> well, it's good to be back at work again. >> no one excels more at deflating the pompous, making fun of self-importance, turning even the darkest tragedy into comedy than glaswegians. that is, if you can understand the bastards. this can be a challenge after a couple of pints of heavy.

>> glasgow has a reputation of being a hard drinking, two-fisted town. >> yeah. >> i've always found it to be this very funny town. >> very dark humor. if you say in america, my father died, people are immediately sympathetic. if you say it here, they say what size was his shoes. we have that. >> jamie godley grew up on the east end, married into an organized crime dynasty, worked as a bartender, became a very famous playwright, author, and stand-up comedian. i thought i'd meet her here at a very old-school institution.

she's working some goat cheese thing with figs. for me, scottish oysters are an irresistible impulse. they are magnificent, by the way. >> what a lot of people abroad don't understand is wine is the backbone of the industry. that still exists, tony. the age expectancy is still 55. in fallujah, iraq, it is still 65. >> wow, that's still an extraordinary thing. >> yeah, i know. i think the fact that we are a bit shit helps us because we have the commonwealth games here, and i loved that everybody tried not to shout in the street

and swear and sell stolen goods in public. i loved the operation of "let's be nice" for a week. i loved that. >> main course, jamie goes for the pan-fried gill. >> i can't pass up the fabulously loved dish, lobster thermostat. it is scottish, as is the cheese, eggs, everything really. >> do you have anything to say on the glaswegian diet? >> the diet, it's really interesting. >> the health wise, as far as heart problems, right behind tonga. >> when i was a kid, we ate fish, butter beans, potatoes. then we would have liver and onions and potatoes and cabbage and peas. somewhere from the mid 70s onwards, it just became crap. now you have a generation of women who don't know how to make a pot of soup. to be a real glaswegian housewife, you have to be able to make a pot of soup.

i can't make soup. the joke is i'm apparently good at sex. sex takes five minutes. soup takes five days. my husband has never asked for soup. >> there's a terrific music scene in glasgow. the pubs are among the finest anywhere. glaswegians say they have more fun at a funeral than people in edinburgh have at a wedding.

that does invite, from time to time, a fair amount of knuckle-headed behaviors. if you're looking for a beer and a beating, glasgow will have it. the toughness thing is no joke. if you ever try to choke a small one into unconsciousness as i have, long story, it is like wrestling with an angry fire plug. also it hurts. access to guns is extremely difficult here. the old country way. one person at a time. >> a stabbing might not get more than a few lines down in a column in the glasgow papers because in this city ordinary stabbing is hardly news anymore. >> where violence is an affliction, there must be a cure.

mark davies began his career working as a bouncer in some of the east side's toughest drinking establishments where he had plenty of opportunities to hone his skill. now he runs tactical edge. come at him with a knife, the overwhelming likelihood is that it will soon be hanging out of your ass. >> generally these courses start come at me with a knife and a guy comes at you like it is "friday the 13th." nobody outside "friday the 13th" has ever come at anybody like this. if somebody does come, they're rushing at you with multiple -- in a manic frenzy of slashing movements. >> yeah.

you tend to get these repeated lines of attack. if they're going for the stomach, it is a sewing machine kind of action. >> is your first order of business deflecting or getting the knife from them? >> i'm going to either gain control of the weapon or go to a returning blade technique. >> right. show me. >> okay. the thing about knife defense is there's no magic bullet. any technique can fail. any technique can go wrong. if there's multiple opponents, that can get difficult as well. here, this sort of thing, yeah? if we've got the knife held up close, okay, yeah, pull, hit. now i'm going to force this

thing back into your sternum repeatedly like i'm a woodpecker. put your hands up, brute force, back and forth, charge. that's it. charge. so atm mugging, i'm going to pin your hand to me so i own the weapon, and i'm going to slap backwards into the groin. i'm going to hit, come up, grab. now i'm going to introduce point a with point b. you're going to want to let go, so bang, bang, bang, bang. this is a little bit more close

and sort of vicious. everybody doesn't see it. i've cleared the weapon. shift yourself, knee him in the balls, straight under. >> that was an education. >> no problem. >> i enjoyed that. education for anyone anywhere. if you look at a khan academy video, they can cover everything from basic arithmetic to calculus, trigonometry, finance. you can really just get what you need at your own pace. and so, bank of america came and reached out to us and said 'we are really interested in making sure that everyone really understands personal finance.' and we're like 'well, we're already doing that.' and so it was kind of a perfect match.

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♪ last night in glasgow i had enough with the deeper issues. now i want to go no deeper than the bottom of a bubbling calderon of hot grease. a happy place from my past where once i frolicked young and carefree in the field of fried arts. the university cafe where i learned at the foot of the masters the dao of hot fat and crispy batter.

yes, they do a deep-fried mars bar and deep-fried pizza. been there, done that. they've been keeping the tradition alive since 1918, and it ain't about no mars bar. >> i'm tempted to go completely nuts for all the things i like, like pies, beans, and chips. cheese beano, i don't know what that is, but i kind of want it. ooh, sausage roll. i do like a good sausage. >> i order the fish and chips and some haggis. haddock battered and floating, adrift in a sea of life-giving oil as it bobs like noah's ark bringing life in all its

infinite variety. in tube form in this case. if you don't like chopped up liver and lungs and all that good stuff, believe me, the curry sauce sets you right. guy fieri in a kilt, but what the hey. >> i'm pretty sure god is against this. oh, yeah, definitely. that's good. doesn't eat well with a fork. you really have to pick this up. so ashamed.

oh, yeah. clean living. that's really one of life's great pleasures. don't let them tell you otherwise. they're lying about you, mr. haggis. there was no other more reviled food on earth than haggis. it's ingredients are no more unusual or bizarre or unappetizing than any hot dog you ever ate. how many anal glands are in a chicken nugget? i don't know, and i'm not suggesting there are anal glands in a chicken nugget, but would you be surprised if there were? back to you, wolf.

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doesn't mean i'm not working. comcast business understands that. their wifi isn't just fast near the router. it's fast in the break room. fast in the conference room. fast in tom's office. fast in other tom's office. fast in the foyer [pronounced foy-yer] or is it foyer [pronounced foy-yay]? fast in the hallway. i feel like i've been here before. switch now and get the fastest wifi everywhere. comcast business. built for business. heading north out of glasgow, scotland, quickly becomes something else. a savagely beautiful, harsh but

absolutely mesmerizing landscape that seems to have changed not at all for thousands, even millions of years. and across loch maree and only accessible by boat, one of the great isolated estates, letterewe. it's the favorite retreat of my friend, adrian gill. more widely known as a.a. gill, he's the much feared and widely followed restaurant critic for the "london sunday times," author, traveler, and one of the finest essayists of our time. letterewe, as it stands today, was built as a shooting lodge. deer stalking like they do here is something from another era,

but it persists in places like this which both protect and cull deer populations. if you are like us, of course, two murderous aristocrats looking to put venison on the table, you need help, professional help. stephen miller has been working here for eight seasons now, both protecting the animals who live on it and helping people like us in the arduous and delicate task of sneaking up on them. we would as gentlemen of leisure require a cook and adrian has recommended fiona cullinane, a well-suited woman who excels at this scottish game cookery. for dinner, it's grouse. shot, then hung until the already funky game bird gets pleasingly ripe. the birds are rubbed inside and

out with salt and pepper, some fresh thyme jammed in the cavity. bread sauce is a must. we don't do this in america, but here it's essential. basically, it's milk simmered with flavoring agent like nutmeg and bay leaf and then thickened with raspings of bread. grouse barded with bacon, then roasted in the oven. they are moved to rest. game stock is added and the sauce reduced, topped with watercress alongside with parsnips and beet root. >> so explain what we're eating, because this is as classic as it gets.

>> this is specifically scottish. this is a grouse, which is the only truly wild game bird in britain. they're the most highly prized as a sporting bird. they're the most difficult to shoot, but more importantly they're the most prized to eat. >> this bread sauce thing, what is that? >> bread sauce, you have to grow up here to love this. it is like pottage. it's soft. it's a very old dish, but it goes very well -- grouse, they're a very gamey meat. it's a very grown-up taste that is slightly repellant, but within that, it is particularly alluring. >> right. >> there is something also sexual about it that people don't often talk about. >> right, right. so good. >> i'm going to a vegetarian

school. my parents sent me to a vegetarian boarding school, and for nine years, the year after i left, i was a vegetarian. >> nine years as a vegetarian, that's unthinkable to me. >> then i decided not to be. i made the decision if i was going to eat meat again, then i had to be prepared to do the whole business. >> right. you've got to be accountable. >> for all of it. for all of it. so i started with the fish and getting the guts and gutting it. you want to eat it? come and kill it. you go, well, then i have to do that as well. when i started doing it, it was like coming home. and that's the thing with being on the hill. >> until the 19th century, the scottish highlands were seen by many as a mysterious, hostile,

and dangerous land, populated when populated at all by scary ass barbarians, tribes so ferocious, so extravagant in their violence and toughness that even the roman legions decided not to mess with them, hoping to keep them out of the way of civilized society. later hunting estates like this were home to farmers who scrounged a living by growing potatoes. today around half the land in scotland is owned by fewer than 500 people. it's seductive as well. who wouldn't do this, if they could? enjoy this kind of rugged

solitude from a warm, inviting 17th century lodge. play a little snooker, enjoy a single malt or two, the substantial game meal, maybe another whiskey perhaps, contemplate the mysteries of the universe under the sky and then to sleep in the arms of morpheus, then to rise in the morning as bringer of death. stephen and adrian keep calling it the hill, but that ain't no hill i've ever seen. it's a behemoth, an endless range of behemoths, one mountain giving way to a moor, then another, then another, then more.

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we walked the highlands for hours. our stalker stephen finally identifies a red stag of suitable age and size, one ready in parlance to be taken off the hill. getting in a range without scaring them off, however, is another challenge. we need to circle around the mountain to close the distance. >> there's not a lot i can do. so we go slowly. just pretend we're hikers at the moment.

bobble hat. >> what? >> if you put a bobble hat on, the deer think you're a hiker. >> can you see the antlers? >> yeah. >> get down. stay down, stay down. dig in nice and steady.

take your time. [ gunshot ] >> that's a nice stag. >> ten points. >> is that good? >> he was never going to get any better. do you want to use your knife? >> yeah.

>> for shooting your first red stag in scotland, you'll get blooded. it's best if you close your eyes. >> oh, okay. >> and the rule is you have to leave it on all day.

>> as getting vehicles up here would be difficult and destructive, they have maintained the tradition of using ponies to retrieve the stalked deer. they are bred to be strong and trained to do this work. they will likely make it back sooner than we will. >> thanks, chaps. we'll catch you at some point. good boy. >> i thought coming up my legs burning, i can't wait until that nice easy downhill walk back. but the walk down is even harder. knees screaming, face crusted

with dried blood, i'm looking forward to a warm fire, strong whiskey and some good country cooking.

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american history is the history of the scary thing being the exact thing we have to do. cross that ocean. walk on that moon. fly. none of this makes rational sense. it only makes american sense. here, the hard things show us who we are.

leaving your job to start your own thing. having a kid, when you still feel like a kid. signing a 30-year mortgage on a home. scary sure, but no match for our colossal self-belief. we're supposed to do scary. without scary, we don't get to be brave. buy in. quickenloans/home buy. refi. power.

♪ you marinate it. super simple. >> we'll do that. >> the venn son is seasoned with salt and pepper and rosemary,

sered in duck fat and then into the oven. a pan sauce made from the fond red wine and deep game stock sweetened with jelly and finished with a knob of whole butter. served with clap shot, basically mashed turnips and potatoes. >> that's it. that's the end of the season. >> you have to traditionally wear the zipper mask, the l leather mask and you send them notes beforehand saying i'm watching you, i e know where you live.

>> we deserve this. >> we worked for that. >> the greatest feat of strength in my entire life. never at any time have i done anything remotely so physical over a sustained period of time. >> really? >> never. at no point previously in my life would i have been able to do it. thank you, guys. >> good shot. >> no safer place. a safer place. >> it's a lot safer now that we're not there.

>> i came to scotland this time to shoot an animal in the heart. to take part, to be fully culpable in a practice nearly as old as these hills. you walk this country stalking a country across the rocks, you feel little has changed as how your ancestors must have searched for their fooled. i dragged my knuckles up a hill and like my predecessors returned tired, happy and covered in blood. everything changes, nothing changes at all.

everything in this house is falling apart. >> you can't drink the water. the sewage backed up and filled up the floor with toilet paper. >> it's miserable. >> looking from the outside in to this place it's beautiful. i mean, just like our business. people think one thing and don't realize what's going on inside. >> but perception is not reality.