miami sneaks up on you. or do we change? and find ourselves sneaking up, washing up, ending up in miami? ♪ i took a walk through this

beautiful world ♪ ♪ felt the cool rain on my shoulder ♪ ♪ found something good in this beautiful world ♪ ♪ i felt the rain getting colder ♪ ♪ sha, la, la, la, la, ♪ sha, la, la, la, la, la ♪ sha, la, la, la, la, ♪ sha, la, la, la, la, ♪ ♪ miami, it's a big place. bigger and more multifaceted than it's given credit for. >> miami, where you at? >> we tend, over the years, to focus on miami's, how should i

put this? party zone. ♪ ♪ party don't stop, stop, stop ♪ >> it's a kind of place you say, that could never be me. and then, it is. ♪

>> it's a temptation that's almost irresistible. the seductions of flash, of palm trees, balmy nights, decko architecture. the manufactured dreams of many television shows made real. but across the causeway, a few miles down the way, there are other worlds, older ones, i think it's safe to say, better ones. ♪ >> way out west, 20 miles from the airport, tucked in yet

another strip mall is this place and you go there because you need coffee and because cuba, respect and because michelle bernstein is there. it was a long time getting here. >> you need a car in miami. and yes, this is like, the heart of miami. >> michelle is one of miami's most iconic, influential chefs born and bread here. >> this is way out west, you can't get much further west than this. >> what's past here? >> swamps. >> body disposal. >> well, you can say that, i can't. this restaurant, we would come here for the sea food and it would be elegant. >> the people with the bo tie. >> and there are still some cuban places in miami that still have that. >> this is how you drink coffee in miami. >> the real places give you the

milk first and then the coffee. a colatta is a little cup. >> and i basically get increasingly jangally as i head toward work or whatever my final destination. >> at four i think i had my first colana. we all give our babies coffee, we put their finger in it and they grow up loving coffee. >> it's good coffee. >> i'm so glad you like it. a lot of people don't like it. >> really? >> well, because they think it's too sweet. >> and many of you watching who are dimly aware of miami and dimly aware of this sandwich think called a cubano sandwich.

but this is not a cubano sandwich strictly speaking. it has roast pork, ham, mustered and pressed until hot and runny inside. >> inbred is darker and sweeter, joy have a real contrast with the salty pickles and the pork and the bread. >> you know what people try to improve on this. >> a lot of people try to improve on it. how is it? yummy? >> good. a lot of thought is given to the structure of the sandwich. >> it's all about layers. >> so, for you this is the perfect breakfast? >> yeah. i always go for the salty, never the sweet. >> if i had to give up one course of the meal, dessert. cheese over dessert any day.

>> oh, yeah. i would rather have steak over dessert but maybe that's because my mother is from argentina. ♪ >> this is my world away from the world. to me, it's my little king's

domain. ♪ >> there's one place i keep coming back to. it's a place where if you look deep enough, ask the right questions, you can get a whole history of miami from one, this man, matt kline. >> you have to remember you're speaking to 100-year-old man. >> i know. you look good. if i look that good when i'm 60, i'll be happy. >> you know the amazing thing about being 100 is? a year ago, i was 99 and nobody cared. i became a 100 and oh, my god. >> regular bar tender and owner of max club deuce and turned 100 this year. and this cigarette smoke and dark, dank atmosphere, apparently good for this guy

who's seen it all. >> i was the second armor division. >> he came to miami in 1945 by new york's lower east side by the battle of normandy. >> the weather was much better for me. the war made miami beach for the simple reason that people were stationed here and they saw a world that they didn't believe. >> during world war ii, miami saw a massive influx of military personnel, hotels which had seen a sharp drop in business, made a deal with the government to house troops. >> parents came down, sons came down, they opened businesses here and it was basically jewish at the time and that's how ait started. >> by the falloff 1942, more than 38,000 troops were living in miami and miami beach.

how long you been running the dukes? >> i took over in 1974. miami beach has turned over at least six times since i've been here. all of that neon is miami vice. they put it in here. this was their favorite bar. >> but it makes sense too. >> it was still very flattering. the same as how flattering it is to have you here. >> i love this place. i mean, i love it. it's my favorite bar in miami. to many more. ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪

♪ ♪ the powerful tool that shows blyou what should pay.r. it gives you a fair purchase price that's based on what others recently paid for the same new car and kelley blue book's trusted pricing expertise. kbb.com come from all walks of life. if you have high blood sugar, ask your doctor about farxiga. it's a different kind of medicine that works by removing some sugar from your body. along with diet and exercise,

farxiga helps lower blood sugar in adults with type 2 diabetes. with one pill a day, farxiga helps lower your a1c. and, although it's not a weight-loss or blood-pressure drug, farxiga may help you lose weight and may even lower blood pressure when used with certain diabetes medicines. do not take if allergic to farxiga or its ingredients. symptoms of a serious allergic reaction include rash, swelling, or difficulty breathing or swallowing. if you have any of these symptoms, stop taking farxiga and seek medical help right away. do not take farxiga if you have severe kidney problems, are on dialysis, or have bladder cancer. tell your doctor right away if you have blood or red color in your urine or pain while you urinate. farxiga can cause serious side effects, including dehydration, genital yeast infections in women and men, low blood sugar, kidney problems, and increased bad cholesterol. common side effects include urinary tract infections, changes in urination, and runny nose. ♪do the walk of life ♪yeah, you do the walk of life

need to lower your blood sugar? ask your doctor about farxiga. and visit our website to learn how you may be able to get every month free. ♪ the dreamers, the visionaries, crooks, and con men who built miami envision many different kinds of paradise. a new jerusalem in the seemingly infinitely expanding real

estate, just fill in where there's water and you've got property. or as in coral gables, a new venice. complete with hollywood fantasy architecture and grand canals. gondolas to ferry their new seekers to their palazzos in the sun. the dream was as expandable as the space. where there was water, there was now magically terra, sort a, firma. and in the '80s where there was decline, a vacuum, suddenly there was a new and vibrant economy, one that raised all boats, filled miami with new buildings, shiny cars, swanky

nightclubs, floods of cash and a new reputation for murder and criminality to go with it. cocaine. say what you will, cocaine altered the skyline of miami forever. it made, for better or worse, miami sexy again. going back to the very beginning, was miami always a criminal enterprise? but i mean that in a good way. outlaw culture is a very deep part of american culture. >> in florida, we don't produce or manufacture anything but oranges and handguns. there is no indigenous industry. we sell sunshine. the only jobs we have are in hospitality or in restaurants. >> real estate. >> real estate. it is all to sell the dream to the next people. >> in 1981 the fbi called miami the most violent city in america. the drug industry brought in an estimated $7 to $12 billion a year and that's of 1981 money.

that is a lot of trickle down. one of the most successful documentaries in the history of film is "cocaine cowboys" that tells that story. the film made by these guys, alfred spellman and billy corbin. >> so things were in decline. cocaine sort of saved the city? >> we'd say so. am i going to get in trouble for it? >> yes. >> by 1981, you had a murder rate, 25% of those bodies had automatic weapons bullets in them. >> right. >> we talk about the uncomfortable reality of where a lot of modern miami came from over something you just have to hit hard in miami when in season. stone crabs. >> federal reserve branch in miami had a $5 billion cash surplus. mostly 50s and 100 dollar bills

all of which had trace elements of cocaine on them. >> and the guys who were in cocaine trafficking in the '70s and '80s got out and are now big medicare fraudsters. >> we're whispering because they're probably here. >> so where's the money now? how's business in general in miami and where is that business coming from? >> remarkably the rebound from the great recession, the people thought it would take almost a decade for all the condo inventory to get absorbed and it seemed to happen almost overnight. by 2010, 2011, we're in the middle of another huge boom. who is buying? wealthy foreigners. a lot of flight capital from overseas in latin america, south america. russians. >> if it is money looted from another country, do we care? trickle down, guys, trickle down. >> the question is how long will it last?

>> there's history and there's the more immediate needs of the present. i need food presently and perhaps some fine bourbon and when i need good food in a city not my own, more and more these days i call somebody if they weren't good at enough things already, has become something of an expert on good food around the world. every time i check instagram you're eating with one of my culinary heros. he seems to like you a lot better than me. ahmir-khalib thompson, known to most as questlove. >> you've been to this place before? >> i live at this place. >> really? >> yeah. >> yard bird quickly became a miami favorite. serving over the top southern

classics to people like us. the old joke was james brown was the hardest working man in show business. you make him look lazy. let's review, okay? band leader, producer, a teacher -- >> yep. >> a d.j. >> technically, i have 16 jobs right now. >> deviled eggs with fresh dill and trout roe will be so over next year, but right now i want like ten more. delicious. fried green tomatoes with pork belly. this is the perfect thing for a guy looking to squeeze into a size 28 speedo tomorrow and hit the beach. >> how often are you in miami? >> three to five times a year. >> what makes the miami sound different from the detroit sound, the philadelphia sound, the new york sound, whatever? >> you can't say something specific like philadelphia had strings in their arrangement whereas stats records had organ in theirs. but i do consider the sound of

miami to be the beginning of really great dance music. >> what's called 77 elvis pancakes? chocolate chip pancakes, bourbon maple syrup, banana compote, and peanut butter. even if you're not inking, you'll want to die on the toilet like he did after this carbo load. i should be eating a fist pull of perk dan with thadan with th. >> yard bird's signature fried chicken comes with chilled spiced watermelon and cheddar cheese waffles. they brine the chicken 17 hours to be exact. tender inside and perfectly crispy on the outside. >> to me, i like waffles and i like chicken, but i don't understand waffles and chicken together. >> you still don't understand? >> i understand people deeply love them and i do like waffles and i do love fried chicken. put them on separate plates and i'm okay. >> you don't want your food integrated? >> shrimp and grits, a southern classic made with florida

shrimp, virginia ham, and south carolina stone ground grits. i was reading your book. is it curtis mayfield you have bad associations with? >> whenever i hear curtis mayfield, just as a kid, that particular structure always frightened. aqualung, jethrotul. >> even now pp i'm angry that that band ever existed. i hate that old englishy, old, bar minstrely, stand on one leg mother [ muted ] hate that shit. you never know when you play music were they molested by a rodeo clown to that song and jethro tull, he's my version of that.

no sudden movements. google search: bodega beach house. ♪ and i'll never desert you ♪ ♪ i'll stand by you yeaaaah! yeah. so that's our loyalty program. you're automatically enrolled, and the longer you stay, the more rewards you get. great! oh! ♪ i'll stand by you ♪ won't let nobody hurt you ♪ isn't there a simpler way to explain the loyalty program? yes. standing by you from day one. now, that's progressive.

who got here first? who other than say some early native american tribes and spaniards? caribbean blacks, most of whom were bahamian. bahamians figured heavily in the early development of south florida, which began in earnest with the construction of railroads in the late 19th and 20th centuries by this guy.

henry morrison flaggler, the tycoon largely credited with big the father of modern florida. his dream was the florida east coast railway, which would run from jacksonville to key west connecting the ports of miami to the rail system of the rest of the united states, creating along its route new towns, new cities, new edens where america's rising middle class could frolic and play. he also agreed to lay a foundation for the city on both sides of the river. as more and more whites moved in, segregation took hold and much of the bahamian community was forced into the black neighborhoods like overtown. and liberty city. if you're looking for old miami, original miami, you're looking to a great extent for black miami. ♪

these days liberty city is mostly ignored by developers, but back in the day it was the epicenter of the black community. a lot has happened since then. >> corn beef, pancakes, smoked sausage, boiled eggs. >> what do you usually get? >> the fishy grits. that's a bahamian dish. >> your parents were jamaican and bahamian. >> yes. my mother was bahamian. my dad was jamaican.

>> today i'm having fish and grits at mlk restaurant with this guy, luther campbell. a lot of good cooking tradition in the family. >> oh, yeah. one night we'd have rice and peas. the other night we'd have peas and rice. >> otherwise known as uncle luke or luke sky walker. he is something of a musical and political and legal legend. credited with pioneering what would be called miami bass. maybe you know him from campbell versus rose music. how do you end up different growing up in miami than you would growing up in l.a. or new york? >> a lot of people would have said southern people, whatever they want to call us, in all actuality, we're an island town. miami was made up of bohamians

that really build up the city. >> very, very different. >> yeah. >> how was that mix? how has that impacted music? >> it's everything in the music. it's everything. i mean, when people think about me, this guy makes booty shaking music. everybody's dancing. everybody is dancing in a sexual way. the girls are standing up on you. i'm pretty sure you know. the girls stand up on you and put their butt on you. >> i've seen this on television. >> it's no different than a lap dance. >> among your other accomplishments, you ran for office. >> yeah. >> about 70% residents of miami speak spanish at home. >> uh-huh. >> enormous african-american and

afro-caribbean community. how come the state keeps electing conservative white guys? >> you have a whole quiet community. you didn't get them excited about voting. >> it is the opposite of get out the vote program. it is don't bother to vote. >> don't bother to vote. take the governor's election. african-americans voted at 20%. if we would have voted at 50%, charlotte gris would have won the governor's race. >> if you were selling miami to somebody, what's the best thing about miami? >> best weather. >> how do you handle the cold if you have to tour or something and you have to spend a week or two weeks in detroit or chicago or something? >> my mind-set is i don't have to deal with this every day. i'm going back to sunshine. when i have that on my mind, i can go into any city. i can go into a blizzard. i know i'm going out. y'all stay. >> this is really good. >> back inland, another world of

flavors. little haiti. just in case miami didn't have enough tasty stuff from elsewhere. the b&m market is a grocery store with a cafe of sorts tucked away in the back. they serve some of the dishes that make me happiest. jerk chicken, who doesn't love that? curried goat, roti, and this. cow-foot soup. flavors, textures, some next level stuff. that looks, by the way, unbelievable. that's so good. what's the best thing about miami? >> the mix of cultures that we've got. >> what's the worst thing? >> you know what really pisses me off? i walk down the street and i say hi to people because that's kind of like how i am, and i don't get a hi back here. >> to what do you attribute this? >> the transient part of it. people don't feel rooted. they are from south america, central america. their whole plan is to come here

do what they can to send money to their family to live in the home of their dreams and then go back and live in them, which is great. i would probably do the same thing. >> if i were to think about coming to florida to live, what would seem attractive to me, and i mean this absolutely, find some place on the beach and just sink in until my liver-spotted crocodile skin, late era george hamilton phase, walk up and down with a metal detecter, that would be me. people who go to live that dream, they don't go to the beach. >> ask me when the last time i went to the beach was. >> when was the last time i went to the beach. >> about a year and a half ago. >> what the [ muted ] is that? >> we're working. >> if you weren't working do you

think you'd be on the beach more often? >> i love it and i always say i will never live in south florida if i didn't live near water. i live near water and i leave my doors open a lot and i get the breeze, but i don't go to the beach. i barely even go into my swimming pool, but i know it's there. >> okay. next.

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♪ ♪ standing here in the rain trying to wash away my singing ♪ ♪ baby gone and left me i don't think she's coming back again ♪ >> before miami bass, before the miami sound machine, there was a miami sound. the music, the original miami sound we're talking about, came from this man, willie clark and this place. what was this space originally? >> this was a little restaurant smaller than this and we were on the other side with the record shop. >> now it looks like a nondescript barbecue joint, but back in 1963 it was the home of deep city records.

♪ wake up in the morning willie clark and his business partner johnny peersol started deep city, recording and promoting local talent. the label became a showcase for artists like betty wright, frank williams and the rocketeers. johnny kilns and the dynamites. everything you've ever been credited for for either producing or writing, it is a very, very long list, quite an amazing list. >> it is about 1200. >> 1200 songs. >> it just flows. i'm like a song mechanic. you bring it to me. i'll help you fix it. >> william and his writing partner clarence "blowfly" reed wrote such classics as "clean up woman" and "rocking chair." and "willy and able." deep city was miami's answer to motown. 50 years, 100 years from now, if you were to do an internet search and punch in the miami sound, your name is going to come up right away as principal creator of the miami sound.

what were the distinctive features of the music you were making that separated it from motown, philadelphia, new york? >> the culture was a mixture of bahamian, jamaican, and people came down from georgia and alabama, but that bahamian influence was dominant. >> right. >> we would have bands who would march from overtown all the way to liberty city and back in big parades. this influence, the dancing and the moving and the marching, i would say that was the main difference. >> and you were teaching school during a lot of this period? >> yeah, i was teaching school. i would walk in the front door of the school, i would look around, put my sign in and walk

out the back door and go straight to the studio. but you know, the principal knew what i was doing. >> yep. >> i did most of the deep city music using that technique. ♪ ♪ if only i could fly i would take to the air ♪ >> you're still out there so your songs are still being played, still being sampled, which is good, right? that's great. >> if it weren't for the samples, i don't know what i'd do. the part of the record industry that kept us alive was europe. >> the collectors must go crazy. maniac collectors in europe and japan. >> if i had known back then, i guess we would still be over there. biggest motown or bigger. >> this is an island, isn't it? it is kind of an island. >> i think it's worse than an island.

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come from all walks of life. if you have high blood sugar, ask your doctor about farxiga. it's a different kind of medicine that works by removing some sugar from your body. along with diet and exercise, farxiga helps lower blood sugar in adults with type 2 diabetes. with one pill a day, farxiga helps lower your a1c. and, although it's not a weight-loss or blood-pressure drug, farxiga may help you lose weight and may even lower blood pressure when used with certain diabetes medicines. do not take if allergic to farxiga or its ingredients. symptoms of a serious allergic reaction include rash, swelling, or difficulty breathing or swallowing. if you have any of these symptoms, stop taking farxiga and seek medical help right away. do not take farxiga if you have severe kidney problems, are on dialysis, or have bladder cancer. tell your doctor right away if you have blood or red color in your urine

or pain while you urinate. farxiga can cause serious side effects, including dehydration, genital yeast infections in women and men, low blood sugar, kidney problems, and increased bad cholesterol. common side effects include urinary tract infections, changes in urination, and runny nose. ♪do the walk of life ♪yeah, you do the walk of life need to lower your blood sugar? ask your doctor about farxiga. and visit our website to learn how you may be able to get every month free.

another day, another country. miami is like that. you can eat your way across the caribbean and through all of latin america and then over to africa, if you'd like. it's all there. the plaza is venezuelan. if you know anything about me, you know i love few things more than big, new, unusual, comes from somewhere else, mutant versions of the giant hamburger and this one, this one is something special. >> this is the deal. this is all venezuelan, which means everything is protein on protein on protein and it is all about a lot of sauces. we're going to do this. absolutely, right? okay. >> what is this neighborhood?

>> some people call it petite venezuela, and yeah, you're way west. you'll pretty much hear everybody speaking spanish. there's almost no english spoken. >> most people in miami speak spanish at home. >> absolutely. >> even if they are not latin. because you can't get a job, especially in the service industry. you have to speak spanish. >> meat on meat is something of a venezuelan specialty and this one has a lot. a beef patty, ham, egg, six varieties of sauces, potatoes and cheese. it's big. big i tells ya. you got to demolish it in stages like you're imploding a casino or like a hyena devouring an antelope by the hoof. you try and tunnel through the soft parts first. this is sort of an engineering

challenge. >> a bigger mouth, perhaps. >> i'm going to start crying. all right. i'm going in. good god. >> yes or no? >> it's delicious, but -- >> it's a little much, right? >> there's no way this thing is holding together until the last bite. >> all right. i can't even get the whole thing. that's ridiculous. >> this is open until 4:00 a.m. so there's definitely a time of day when that seems like a perfectly reasonable idea. >> if you drink too much, this will pretty much take care of everything that ever ailed you. >> long a refuge for people all over the caribbean basin and latin america, miami was also an inviting place for americans who just wanted to get off the grid, live differently, and make their own rules. if you've ever read the excellent travis mcgee novels.

you'll remember travis, the mystery solving boat bum who lived on a houseboat in miami. people used to live like that. less and less today. >> when my wife passed away a few years ago, i was living in a condo and didn't want to do that anymore. now i'm on this piece of iron. >> bob, aka captain bob, is still here and still living on his boat in the miami river. >> we sit out here and we look like we're enjoying ourselves, but it is really hard work. just sitting here looking pretty, it's not for everybody. but yeah, it's a good life. >> i've had many friends over the years who live on boats, work on boats, but these were just degenerate wind addicts. this is more of a lifestyle choice for you. >> it is. it's got a machine shop on board. i kind of wanted to go down to

the buhahamas and let the boat y for itself, earn its own keep. >> the steel hulled achievement doesn't do much moving around these days, but it might have to soon. >> who else lives like you? >> it used to be very common. it is getting scarcer. >> how long do you think you've got? >> six months, a year? >> really? >> that complex that's going up right there, you see the tower crane. we sit there and watch them put the buildings up and they're -- >> coming closer. >> -- creeping this way. >> you're not moving onto land anytime soon if you can avoid it? >> no. here life keeps flowing by. i wave and keep on keeping on. ♪

♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ just stay calm and move asno sudden movements.. google search: bodega beach house.

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♪ miami's the kind of place you say that could never be me. and then it is. so you've been here how many

years now? >> 15 years. >> 15 years. you're a floridian. >> yeah. >> when i was young, this man was a role model, an ideal, a roadmap for bad behavior. his music, it turned out, was the soundtrack for most of my life. still is. james osterburg of muskegon, michigan, known still all over the world as iggy pop. >> you grew up in michigan, you've lived in new york for a long period of time. >> i went from michigan to london. i went from london to hollywood, which was rough. hollywood to berlin, which was great. back to london. and new york from '79 to '99. >> was it a conceivable option at any point, i can live in florida? >> it wasn't for me. i was hustling. hustling in a big city. it just kind of happened by chance. i had a shady friend who owned a

condo here, and thought, well, this is a nice, little trashy hang. you could just pull up to the beach any time you wanted and look out and see the end of complications. and anybody could do that and it was safe and free. and i thought, that's a -- this is beautiful. ♪ >> so we're eating healthy today? >> yeah. >> what do you like here? i wouldn't have thought back then in my dorm room that all those years later i'd be eating healthy with iggy pop. barbecue shrimp for the godfather of punk. i get wild and crazy with some roast pork. a little white wine, our only tilt toward the debauches of previous lives.

>> i well remember the first stooges album coming out, the context of the time. this was, what, '69? >> '69, august. >> in a lot of ways as far as looking after my health, your music early on was a negative example. >> i hear you. >> and looking at my own life and career, i'm pretty much known for traveling around the world and recklessly drinking and eating to excess. >> sure. >> what does it say about us that we're now sitting in a healthy restaurant, i just came from the gym, and we're in florida? >> listen, if you just flamed out, you're in -- you know, you're in such voluminous and undistinguished company and all your works will flame out quicker with you. ♪ >> what's the perfect day in miami? >> it's a clear morning. hot. hot and humid. no moderate or any of that crap. no. hot, hot, humid. the sun comes up in a hazy

tropical orange orb, and you're not working. you're not on a schedule. and you have no meetings, but you have somebody fun to spend the time with. and then you would go to the beach when the sun isn't right overhead yet because the beach faces east, the sun sparkles on the water. and the sparkle is very nice. so, positive. ♪ >> you're the template for the rock star, meaning other rock stars sort of look to you to figure out how should i behave? along with that, look, even at its -- even if you're broke, you're a guy at various points in life has pretty much been one way or the other have been able to have a lot of things ordinary people would never have. you've had many, many adventures.

>> i know -- >> given that, what thrills you? >> the nicest stuff right now, this is very embarrassing, but it's really -- being loved. and actually appreciating the people that are giving that to me. ♪ i don't see any birds at all here today. it's so quiet. >> is this the reward phase of your life or is it just dumb [ muted ]? >> it's been emotionally i think a reward phase for stuff i did up until the age 30. stuff you had to do on instinct

and not on intelligence. >> see, i think you deserve it. but when i look at my own life, you know, i'm actually -- i'm ambivalent. i mean, i'm still not so sure. you know? >> i'm still curious. you seem like a curious person. >> it's my only virtue. >> there you go. all right. curious is a good thing to be. it seems to pay some unexpected dividends. ♪ i am a passenger and i ride and ride ♪ ♪ i ride through the city ♪ i see the stars come out of the sky ♪ ♪ so let's ride and ride and ride and ride ♪ >> i guess that's what it comes down to. all of it. led here. i write a book, i get a tv show, i live my dreams, i meet my hero. two old men on a beach.

♪ singing la, la, la, la, la, la, la ♪ ♪ la, la, la, la, la, la, la everything changes. nothing changes at all. ♪ i took a walk through this beautiful world ♪ ♪ felt the cool rain on my shoulder ♪ ♪ found something good in this beautiful world ♪