possession. so what, mort, you told me 100 times you want to feel possessed. >> walter, i never said that standing up and you know it. >> norman, and bud yorkin turned the spinoff series into an art form. >> cnn's "the '70s" premieres thursday 9:00 p.m. eastern only right here on cnn. the that will do it for me. i'm poppy harlow. thanks so much for being with me tonight. "anthony bourdain: parts unknown" is next. have a great week. -- captions by vitac -- www.vitac.com my grandparents teach that there are some people who have been in madagascar before. they were very little people and

they live in forests and they respect their environment. but then comes many people from other countries, from africa, from asia, from spain, from france. many of us don't know the history. ♪ i took a walk through this beautiful world ♪ ♪ felt the cool rain on my shoulder ♪ ♪ found something good in this beautiful world ♪ ♪ i felt the rain getting colder ♪ ♪ sha, la, la, la, la,

♪ sha, la, la, la, la, la ♪ sha, la, la, la, la, ♪ sha, la, la, la, la, ♪ ♪

>> market. ♪ >> over the years i've let a lot of extraordinary landscapes recede into a blur outside my windows. i've looked, maybe seen, maybe noticed, then gone. we all carry different experiences inside us. we see things differently, don't we? madagascar -- exotic, unspoiled

paradise or microcosm for the end of times. antananarivo, tana for short, madagascar's crowded chaotic capital city. >> how are you doing, man? base camp. >> wow, that's quite a rain. i don't know. i'm not sure if i can be in front of the camera. >> just ignore them. >> i'm so used to controlling everything. >> darren aronofsky, director of the films "pi," "the wrestler," "black swan," and as it would turn out, sort of appropriate to our location, "noah." he asked me if he could go along on a trip with us. i said where do you want to go.

so, madagascar. i knew almost nothing about it. i knew it was an animated film i've seen a lot of times in my car. >> it is one of the more extreme places that you hear about but you know you'll never go to unless something really weird summons you. and you're sort of that weird force. >> we're on an island in the indian ocean with this amazing ethnic mix, an incredible landscape. something like 80% of the animals here don't exist anywhere else. >> what does it mean when an ecosystem goes out of balance? what is the blowback? here you can see the blowback. the people have been chopping down the forests. all of a sudden you don't have soil anymore, and you can't grow anything anymore. it's just a real situation. there we go. >> an important question. we're just getting to know each other. you are a vegetarian.

>> yes. and it just sort of happened with the release of "noah." in scripture, he is a vegetarian, as was adam and eve. humans weren't given permission to eat animals until after the flood. >> so we'll see who is doing better after the end of this ten days. little social experiment here. >> madagascar was settled best we can tell around 700 a.d. by people from what is know indonesia, later by africans. in 1895 the french took it, killed off a substantial number of people in the process, and as they do, left behind beautiful buildings and the french language. when independence came in 1960, it was sudden and ill-prepared for.

continuing political incompetence has left most of madagascar's 22 million people living on less than $2 a day. >> do you know this place? do you eat here? >> yes. monday, saturday, before going out, before going to nightclub. >> first meal in country and i suggested this place. i thought it would be perfect with aaron being a vegetarian and all. this is what you call being passive-aggressive, i think. so what's good here? >> pork. >> right. pork. my favorite vegetable. >> just the head of the pork. >> it sounds good. >> yeah. >> i'm not going to have it. i'm going to go just with vegetables. beans and --

>> ooh. >> you don't want to taste it? >> i'm not going to taste pig head, not today. this is going to be fun. torture. >> always take it with beans. >> rossi, the famous musician here, is out of a period out of favor with the previous government back home and elected to parliament. >> this is i think about -- the leaves. >> there we go. >> mmm. >> excellent. >> these days what are the big issues that are not being taken care of? >> poverty. not enough education. we are very rich. you know. we have oil, but our political leaders most of the time are crook. >> how much does the environmental issues matter to the people or is it just about survival? >> they don't care.

the international community, they've paid a lot of money to protect the forest. you protect the monkey. you don't protect the people. i eat the monkey. if i'm hungry, i eat them. they don't care about the world is going more and more war. >> climate change. >> okay. you are going to die, yes? okay. you're going to die. that's life. for them, just normal. >> a lot of people feel that the future should be ecotourism, essentially working in hotels and restaurants for tourists. >> yeah. >> that's kind of a return to colonialism, isn't it? >> exactly. making a fist

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♪

♪ tell me what you think of this. >> i'm looking forward to this. it's a very famous dish, goose. >> goose and shredded meat. >> very cool. >> there's always someplace where the flame is kept burning, history kept alive however faintly. >> this is the stuffing. >> these days in madagascar's capital city it's left to mariette. >> the epitome of the cooking is the way mariette cooks it. ♪ ♪

♪ you are, you are like a sweet perfect bloom ♪ >> during the colonial period, mariette was a frequent culinary ambassador. ♪ you are, you are like the sun on my skin ♪ >> harry bellefonte. >> the go-to chef for visiting presidents and royalty. the success story -- her mansion high atop oatville, the former neighborhood of choice for aristocrats and colonizers alike.

♪ kiss on my lips though semi-retired, mariette continues to entertain guests from time to time. >> so this is broth with chicken and ginger. >> these dishes marry mostly disappeared royal cuisine with the techniques and training of classical french. so moisten the rice with the broth? >> exactly, with the broth. >> wow, look at this. >> this is a vegetable, one of the side dishes. it's like a salad. >> colored like a carrot. >> yes. string beans. don't madagas don't eat meat because it's expensive.

most madagas would eat rice broth with vegetables and that's it. >> i'd do fine. >> yeah, absolutely. >> this is a country that is very rich in natural resources. >> madagascar, we have a lot of things that a lot of people want. for example, the trafficking of rosewood, prospecting for oil, for gas. and don't leave anything for the rest of the country. this is an island paradise. >> and it's disappearing very, very quickly. >> a lot of our forests are being burned down. because people don't have land on which to grow their crops. >> the best-case scenario that everybody seems to raise is ecotourism will save the day. the local people will be what, cleaning room, cooking, and performing traditional ethnic dances. >> yeah, absolutely. >> to me, this is not an ideal option. and we see it -- >> what's an ideal option, though?

[ thunder ] ♪ >> heading south from tana, it's a very different country out there where rice is the difference between life and death. ♪ between the traditional slash-and-burn agriculture that's existed here since this island was first settled and the imperative of charcoal as heat source, 90% of the forests and jungles that cover madagascar are gone. ♪

♪ ♪ >> anything? >> not yet. they're very elusive. they're very difficult to see. >> thanks largely to the work of dr. patricia wright, over 4,000 hectares of forest have been set aside and protected for a national park. her recently completed research station is a state-of-the-art complex that reminds one of that skin cynical spielberg

franchise, what was it, jurassic merch? >> it is right next to me, can you see it? >> the area profound essential habit for a golden bamboo lemur, discovered here in 1986 and the greater bamboo lemur previously thought extinct. >> there's only 500 of these in the wild in the whole world. >> wow, really? what the biggest pressure on the population? >> slash-and-burn agriculture. some places they're hunted. look at it. beautiful. it's so nice. oh. >> whoa. >> he's pissing on you. he's taking a leak right now. >> yeah. >> hopefully that's not an editorial statement. >> look. this is the kind of bamboo chute that the lemurs loved. it's full of protein, and it's

full of cyanide. >> is cyanide not a problem for them. >> they can tolerate all kinds of cyanide. the cyanide comes straight through in the poop. >> do they know how they get it through their system? >> we're working on that. >> okay. >> what is the dew on the outside of it? just dew? >> careful. >> oh, don't touch. >> how is your finger feeling? >> it felt a little sharp, like a fuzzy sharpness. >> yeah, a fuzzy sharpness. just wait a bit. >> it's just like fiberglass actually. >> leave tiny little cuts. >> if i lick my finger, am i going to die? >> probably. >> are you serious? can it go through the skin now that i've touched it? >> no, you have to eat it. >> okay. >> hopes of "black swan 2: the revenge" were dashed today. >> yeah.

oh, wow. one right above you. >> has the film "madagascar" been good for the lemur business? there you go. >> i think the cartoon woke up the world and that there is a place called madagascar although many people think that it doesn't really exist. >> so what do you think happens? how hard is it to maintain the forest? >> it's incredibly hard. we've been working with the villagers around the park, and i think they really do understand the value of these extraordinary lemurs and the value of the forest. i mean, the economic value of tourism is tremendous for this country. living with diabetes, steady is exciting. only glucerna has carbsteady, clinically proven to help minimize blood sugar spikes. so you stay steady ahead. wheall i can think abouthit, is getting relief. only nicorette mini has a patented fast-dissolving formula. it starts to relieve sudden cravings fast.

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the boundaries of the ranomafana park protect what they can of madagascar's rapidly diminishing rain forest, but it's not all about lemurs and rare species of unspoiled beautiful places. >> these are the tenella people. these are the people of the forest. this is the fifth time they've had to change the location of the village because they do slash-and-burn agriculture. this ceremony today is a ceremony to celebrate the fact that 17 people from the village

are going to donate their land to conservation. it won't be cut down. ♪ >> before the tenalla land can officially become a part of the park, the gods or the ancestors somebody must be appeased, and that as it often does means something must die. see this a lot? >> i usually don't go when this is happening. ♪ >> wow. >> for someone with as dark a world view, judging from his

films, anyway, newly vegetarian, he seems unusually uncomfortable with the bleeding realities of local custom. >> see him? >> preferring instead to trip the light fantastic in the rainforest idle. ♪

♪ >> how do you make the argument that it is in your interest to protect the forest when the forest means fuel, food? >> what we've had to do, of course, is make their lives better in exchange. health projects, education projects, tourism. many of the people work as tour guides. they work in the hotels. they have work. they didn't have any work when they got here, but also the benefits of researchers. we hire 85 people full time.

the director of the national park, where is your village that you lived in here when you were a little girl? so that's on one side of the park. ♪ ♪ >> the ancestors presumably okay with the land transfer. it's time to party. ♪ ♪ dr. wright worked hard to establish the park with the stated aim of protecting the absolutely unique flora and fauna here and reducing human

pressures on the area. this, however, is the face of human pressure, just so we're clear. >> hey. take care, guys. ♪ >> we're right on the edge of the park. >> wow. >> and right on the edge, literally, is where they built the power lines and where they're slashing and burning. we were trying for landscapes like this in "noah." >> sort of a post-apocalyptic

wasteland thing going on, right? >> the road. just all the original fauna and flora in new york city and chicago and detroit and los angeles are gone, we don't feel too guilty about all that. >> that's the argument of all these developing countries, you did it. didn't they teach us that in third grade, two wrongs don't make a right? ♪

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♪ what were they welding on? >> oil pan. [ whistle ] [ speaking foreign language ] >> most of madagascar's french

built rail network has crumbled into nothingness, but this train still runs. >> look how it's painted. >> it's first class. >> yeah, yeah. >> we ride in style. how old is this train? [ whistle ] wow, it works. >> oil pan worked. >> i hope that's not a pitying look i see on some of their faces. they're all looking at us like -- ♪

>> it's 162 kilometers to the one time major port town. it's both the greatest thing ever, meaning a fantastically scenic emersion into madagascar that most visitors don't get to see, and at times punishing crawl. for the majority of the 17 station stops along the line, this train provides the only connection to the outside world. people hop off and on, load and unload fruit, lychees, bananas. quite a few foreigners on board watch. >> we get some peanuts? thank you. >> and there are vendors selling food and drink, which is a increasingly a necessity as the supposed eight-hour trip is said to sometimes approach 18.

>> all right. so we got a shaker. we got an umbrella, champagne. you let the train pour for you. >> right. >> this is the lychee. >> that smells good. >> yeah. >> darren woke early and hit the hotel kitchen to make the necessary french lychee puree for festive cocktails. >> wait, wait, wait. all righty. >> oh, yes. it's not bad. it's not bad at all. >> okay. it's a nice summery drink. >> the lychee makes it. >> the lychee makes it, yes. >> what are we calling this? the golden lemur would be good.

>> the golden lemur. ♪ ♪ >> flashes of everyday life, the struggle to live, to eat, viewed from a moving train, then gone. >> i mean, it's plumes of different areas of madagascar burning, everywhere you can see. >> after seven hours or so -- >> we're coming into a town. >> -- the imperatives of food, any food, become more urgent. this is it. this is the food stop. i'm starving.

>> i am so with you. look, this kid is wearing a banana like a yamaka. >> the wonderland of fresh papaya salads along with the tasty train station treats we were told would be here, well, it's somewhat suboptimal. >> little did i know there would be a feeding frenzy. there's no papaya salad. everything's gone. here's some bananas. >> yeah, a few of those. >> awe. those. merci. >> we get what we can. >> it's pretty insane. >> it's hard to complain about the lack of food options if you look around. >> lots of kids. want some? >> thanks. >> yeah, it's hard.

♪ >> this is nice. >> this is the way to travel. until, like, a palm leaf comes flying in. watch it, watch it, watch it. ♪ ♪

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♪ this is what it's like to wake up at the end of the world.

beyond here to the east nothing but thousands of miles of indian ocean. ♪ morning, and fishermen return with their catch. ♪ ♪ >> have you felt how wobbly that boat was coming over? >> yes.

>> imagine going out, the serious chop of that thing, and fishing. menacara was a major port back in the day as a transportation hub, but now it's a sleepy beach town. that's a disturbingly large spider. i would be unhappy if i saw that coming across my pillow. dude, it's a chicken or rooster. >> i know, talk about spiders. >> okay. that lobster's smelling good. >> no, they're disgusting. they're like giant insects. walking. and what do they eat? >> corpses. >> dead things. >> you are such a debbie downer. you are such a downer. ♪ ♪ >> you were born here.

and your parents are from here. >> foohe's a fisherman. >> how far do they go out? >> 50 miles. >> he goes out 50 miles in a little canoe? >> yes. every day, every day. >> whoa, awesome. >> this is typical dish. green leaves. >> uh-huh. >> eggplants. some spices. then meat. >> it is should be pointed out. we bought a lot of food. this sort of spread is not an everyday meal in these parts. there's your veggie platter. there you go, man. >> now we have a piece of a shark. he says before 2000, more fish. but since then -- >> smaller fish? >> smaller fish, and the quantity, as well, smaller. >> that's a papaya salad. >> it's one of those days where the artifice of making television threatens to move

dangerously into cruelty. >> what are you guys eating over here? >> would gets to eat and when becomes a pressing concern to the two of us. >> the kids eating? can we hand out the food? >> in a village like this, first ladies serve men. >> right. >> then the kids, they will eat later. >> right. i gotcha. >> it may not be our system, but it's a system. >> the kids are getting ready for theirs over there. and it becomes clear that, yes, everybody will eat. >> there we go. >> oh, that's good. you picked a bad time to become a vegetarian. you really did. the food is amazing. there are some really good cooks at work here today. i mean, really amazing. and then the music starts and

the dancing. and as so often happens, the not so spontaneous made for tv party becomes a real party. ♪ we can all, for a little while, anyway, forget about where we came from and where we might be tomorrow. ♪ ♪

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>> hallelujah! >> hallelujah, praise the lord! [ speaking foreign language ]. >> hallelujah! >> you are blessed today. hallelujah. >> hallelujah. >> the book of revelations says what affair we took -- take notes. [ speaking foreign language ]. the people are senior. amen. >> amen. >> hallelujah. hallelujah! hallelujah! >> hallelujah. >> the camera is a liar. it shows everything, it shows nothing. it reveals only what we want. often, what we see is seen only from a window, moving past then

gone. one window, my window. if you'd been here, chances are you would have seen things differently. >> whoa! >> oh! >> you live here now. looking back, if you were editing this show, how would you tell this story? >> i don't know. >> this is it, this is the food stop. i am starving. >> i am so with you. >> that was quite a scene. lots of kids.

>> this is really -- >> you always want a simple answer to everything to make it all make sense. and it seems to -- i don't know. it's just constantly surprising. >> what can you see everywhere you go? in the office, in the market. people are still making scene. >> as a kid, i always wondered if i was good enough to get on the arc. so i always sort of empathize with the people who didn't make it. >> god, make all of the animals come inside the big ship and all of the people -- family. it is on our ship. >> god decides to destroy

creation. ten generations after he created everything. so it must have hurt tremendously. >> god will choose us, like he choose noah. he said noah, he brought that -- he was save us, too. alleluia! >> alleluia. ♪ >> pray for madagascar. pray for yourself. pray for your team. pray.

god will save madagascar. and vacation over as we headed home to our regular beds, our daily lives of school and homework, and ordinary things. maybe my little brother, maybe i, would wake up and look out the window at the night sky and suddenly it would fill with stars and golden mist, and we'd pretend for a second we were somehow deep inside the milky