powerful and brave and interesting. this is not what this was. >> charles, good to have you on. angela tucker, great to have you on the program. thank you so much. that does it for us. "anthony bourdain: parts unknown" starts now. my great fear as a kid was a fear of failing. and that's hawaiian because i was born that way because that's expectation. you're hawaiian, you're going to be less. you're hawaiian, you're going to fail more. it's old. it's in you. it's part of your identity. but when i navigate a voyage, i know when the storm comes, it's going to take you to the bone. and if the storm keeps coming, you've got to stand up. that's just what you've got to do. it's this zone where you learn to make fear your best friend. you hold it really close to you and you open up the door to believing that you can make it.

♪ i took a walk through this beautiful world ♪ ♪ felt the cool rain on my shoulder ♪ ♪ found something good in this beautiful world ♪ ♪ i felt the rain getting colder ♪ ♪ sha la la la la ♪ sha la la la la la la ♪ sha la la la la ♪ sha la la la la la la hawaii is america. as american as anything could possibly be.

yet it also never shed what was there before in the layers and layers that have come since. it's a wonderful tricky conflicted mutant in lack of a better word you'd have to call paradise. no man's paradise. paradises don't exist. paradise is kind of in your head. >> wait a minute. you look at your window here. you look at those hills, those mountains, all that green, that blue sky. the clear sea. it sure looks like paradise to me. this guy knows. he's been everywhere. he's paul theru. novelist, essayist, he's a legendary travel writer. of the all the places he's been, all the places he's seen, he chose hawaii to live and he's lived here for 25 years. >> does it matter that it's america? >> it's the big thing that it's america.

it has elements of the third world. the nicest elements of the third world, which is funky. there's self-respect. there's pride. things that don't work at all. and then it's usa. where we are now. there's pta meetings here. they get together and watch the super bowl and it's the most main street usa you will find. >> town is a neighborhood spot in the district and as hawaii is the only state in the union that allows fishermen to sell to restaurants, the pan-roasted mahi-mahi is pretty damn good. it's not a particularly welcoming or friendly part of the world. contrary to the sort of the aloha myth. >> no, that's right. but no island is. nantucket isn't. the island of hawaii isn't. name an island, want foreigners there? sicily. no way. no way.

did anyone come to an island with a good intention? >> no, never in this new world. best case in the world, bring syphilis. pretty much. at the very least. >> yes. captain cook put his sailors ashore just a little northwest of here. hawaii killed its first tourist. philippines killed their first tourist but people on the islands born on the islands. view anyone who comes ashore with suspicion. >> what defines a hawaiian? maybe should go back in our imaginations to could have been 2,000 years ago. the tahitians had this voyage way before any other culture was

exploring the deep seas. somehow, someplace in the south pacific, single most isolated in the planet. fast forward to captain cook and get a glimpse, very productive people. they're industrious, healthy. strong, time for the arts. that was a large population, more than half of what we have in hawaii today. fully sustainable, because there was no other choice. so over time, the native hawaiian population goes to 22,000. it's the same story. introduced the inability to deal with it, people die. 1926, public school system would outlaw language and the practice of culture in public schools. so the road to extinction is well paved. >> between captain cook's arrival in 1778 and today, disease wiped out most of the population. missionaries came. a booming sugar and pineapple plantation industry.

influx of immigrants in okinawa, china, and the philippines, the overthrow. and the u.s. takeover of the hawaiian government. world war ii. and finally, statehood. the geographical realities of being thousands of miles from, well, anywhere else, has given hawaii to some degree, protection from the forces that eradicated so many other south pacific cultures entirely. in fact, they've arguably been holding back the inevitable better than just about anyone. what hawaii looks like today depends which island you're standing on and to some extent, the reputation of the locals. the hawaiian islands are not a monolith. islands, that's plural and we're talking eight very different islands with very different

identities. it's been over a century since the waves of immigrants began and things got all mixed up in the best possible way. there's layers. and a simple question like, who is hawaiian gets you all kinds of answers. the neighborhood of kalihi is far from what most know and most specific kind the last 40 years. >> it's the blue collar town. they all come here. breakfast, lunch. every day. >> i'm joined by two local chefs, mark noguchi of mission, known by some as the gooch. second generation japanese and andrew. of the pig and the lady. he's first generation vietnamese american or would that be vietnamese hawaiian? as you'll see, it gets complicated. >> i actually cooked on the east coast for three years and people would always be like, are you from hawaii? you're hawaiian? i said, no.

second generation japanese. but hawaiian? no, i realized like, here in hawaii, we identify ourselves ethnically versus geographically. like, there's no way he or i would call ourselves hawaiians. we would get our asses kicked by a hawaiian. >> who is hawaiian? >> a native of the land. in your blood. you come from a lineage of native hawaiian people. >> what's your feeling here? >> i feel like hawaiian in a sense, you know. it's my place. but culturally, that's a different story. >> you say you're not hawaiian. >> no. >> what's your feeling about -- spam? >> i love it. >> so you're hawaiian. >> i'm from hawaii. i'm born and raised, going to die 808. >> the owners are a mix. aka mob, mainly japanese husband, and daughter, who i

guess would be japanese, okinawan/hawaiian and son-in-law, robert, who is of course, mexican. >> that's pretty. ooh, look at that. that looks good. >> now we are talking. that's awesome. >> i just caught local food. when i look at this table, it's just hawaii. got portuguese, japanese. okinawan, world war ii. i don't know. >> korea? >> korean, japanese, hawaiian. awesomeness. >> the food is bone deep hawaiian stuff, which is to say

delicious mash-up. take taco rice. it's a dish created in okinawa to approximate tex-mex for homesick gis appropriated by younger generations of okinawan and japanese found its way back to hawaii. got that? >> identifying and seeing my best friends were native hawaiian helped me to realize the pride of being from hawaii, understanding the hawaiian culture, living it. possibly being proud of being japanese. >> there's still a movement to sovereign. >> there's strong movement. so if fighting broke out, which side are you on? >> i'm getting tear gassed. >> you don't even have to think about it. >> i would joke about it. if like, me and hawaii. i am back and uncle sam and were like, no, native hawaiian only, i'm like, everybody needs to cook. i'm a cook. i have worth! i take these out...

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this is ninoa thompson. in 1976 with similarly heroic hawaiians, he did a difficult important thing. before 1972, it was generally assumed even insisted upon that hawaii had been settled originally by some random savages who maybe drifted over accidentally from south america. couldn't have been ancient polynesians. they couldn't possibly have been the sophisticated navigators to guide across thousands of miles of open water. >> nobody could see the canoe. no dreams. no hope. can't see. >> the polynesian voyaging society with the help of crew members set out to prove that that was exactly what did happen. >> there were those in the community that loved this, prayed for it.

they sensed change. you have a 62-foot canoe. it was powerful. it changed everything. >> the hokulaia. a replica of the kind of craft believed to have been used in those times and using only primitive contemporaneous navigational tools sailed to tahiti and back. the trip that helped spark a hawaiian renaissance, a rebirth of pride and interest in traditional hawaiian culture and identity. >> the success was monumental. it changed the world view, that our ancestors were powerful, they were extraordinarily intelligent, they were courageous, and they were skilled. and so we come from them. thompson is a legendary waterman who continues to sail. native hawaii, his roots go back

in the valley 200 years. >> my grandfather was born here. so i grew up. milking cows with my grandfather. >> he spent many years learning techniques from a master. of the small micronesian island. >> this was a man who was chosen by his grandfather. at one year old he was put in the wind and water. at 5 years old, he was sailing with his grandfather. he would never say that as some sense of abuse. when the wave make the canoe move, the canoe make me sick, my grandfather throw me in the ocean so i go inside the wave. when i go inside the wave, i become the wave. when i become the wave, now i'm navigating, at 5. so when i approached him, he said to me, too old. you want someone to know everything, send your son to my island. but he says, i'll teach you

enough to find the island you seek, but i can't teach you the magic. >> why do you think it was important to do such a difficult thing? >> it's the same story that you're going to see -- >> everywhere? >> everywhere. in terms of indigenous people. my father's mother nearly pure hawaiian chooses not to teach her children the language or culture or genealogy. where do you come from? who's your family? what's your link? and that could have been 100 generations. what the voyage did was a reconnection back to feeling wholesome about who you are, because knowing who you come from and who are your ancestors. so it was their canoe. it wasn't our canoe, it was theirs. so it started to ignite this flame, a bumper sticker, a t-shirt. i'm proud to be hawaiian. 1987, it becomes the first

language. it's mandatory in the schools. hawaiian schools have to teach. private schools will not have attendance if you don't teach hawaiian. it has to be recognized in everything. you're going to -- that community is powerful. >> when i mention to people, locals in oahu, hawaii, other residents that i was going to malachi, the response was almost always surprise. it did not have a reputation for being welcoming. that it was dangerous to go over there. that those dudes were mean, inward looking, unfriendly, tough as iron, and quick to get pissed off. as it turned out, that was not my experience. >> so, we like to brag about what we don't have. we don't have traffic lights. we don't have traffic.

>> nice. >> walter naki is a skilled fisherman, and today we're headed out for some octopus. >> it's called the friendly isle. >> but it's famously not the friendly island. it's supposed to be the most unfriendly island, but that's what everybody says, right? >> which way you look at it. traditionally here, we're very, very friendly. i'm friendly. when you try to fix it. when you try to take something. that's when we become unfriendly. the molakai people have been protective of their resources. we have a lot still intact. >> still. >> yes. >> unsurprisingly, fishing rights is a hot topic around here. don't come fishing in the wrong place if you know what's good

for you. >> all right, we are here, man. >> we're going to coax him out of his hole. when you stick the spear in there, you're going to make him feel like he's not safe no more. when he comes out, you want to stick him with the spear. >> final step. stun the struggling creature with a sharp blow. or if you want to go old school, bite him right in the brain. in my case, it took repeated crunching to location the apparently chicklet-sized organ.

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a powerful spark for the hawaiian renaissance, this was what really set things off. beginning in 1941 and continuing into the '70s and beyond, the u.s. navy had been using the neighboring island of kahoolawe as a bombing range. you could hear the shock waves as far away as maui and molokai. >> nobody going to tell me any different. >> people had never been happy about it, but emboldened by the times and by recent events, a group of young activists decided to take a stand. in 1976, there were a number of attempted occupations of the island in protest of the bombing. none more successful than walter riddy's. he and a fellow activist named richard sawyer set up on the island and refused to leave. managing to evade pursuers for just over a month before finally being arrested and jailed.

>> the first order is burn down this building. >> they emerged, of course, heroes. and these protests went on to inspire many others to join the movement. >> i hope i'm still alive when that day happens, because i want to see our queen back in office. >> it embodied the independent spirit, the desire for hawaiian empowerment and sovereignty that today resonates across generations. welcome to what is supposedly the most unwelcoming place in hawaii. ♪ anthony. come in. >> thank you so much.

nice to meet you. >> please come inside. >> this is fish pond, a shared community space with a sacred history. hanohano is the caretaker of the fish pond. he's a local community leader here on molokai. also here is the famous walter riddy. >> everybody knows how valuable all of this stuff is, because we can see what happened to the rest of the island. >> so essentially an old school fish farm. >> 800 years old. >> 800 years old. modernizing one old idea. and that ancient idea is as simple as feeding your community. >> and this, the island you're on, this place could feed over a million people back in the day. >> you hear the word again and again on molokai. aina, which means land, and translates to that which feeds you. springs, mountains, rivers. these lands, these fish ponds were managed by their ancestors

as a sacred trust. early, sustainable, clean fish farms. something in modern times we're still struggling to figure out. >> you heard what people think about us. but the true story is that we have a place of abundance and we try to protect it. we try to protect all of these things that we've been unable to protect the last 30 years and it's getting harder and harder. >> every single one of these hawaiians over here get enough evidence that the state of hawaii, the department of natural resources, have done a terrible job. we're not even looking for blame. we're actually looking for an agreement, that from today, we all going to be pono. we all going to be righteous. we all gone to be good. our planet is in such bad shape that being environmental, being green is trending. and that's the way hawaiians have always been. >> so who gets to be hawaiian? this is the question.

who is hawaiian? >> hawaiian is a nationality. you could be hawaiian. >> come on. i have to be boring here. this is a different story. >> i can give you the best explanation. you cannot be our blood. you cannot be kanaka. hawaii is our nationality. you see what we're standing on? aina. it matters so much that if you love this place and you don't want to develop it, destroy it, abuse it, we are on the same team. if you are eyeing this place and its resources as a money-making vehicle for yourself, we enemies. and it doesn't matter what race, religion, what sex. if you love this place and you can love aina the way we love it and the way our ancestors loved it, we can be more than friends, we can be family. >> that's it.

>> right on. >> it's a pretty impressive spread of food for such a supposedly surly group. slow roasted pig. grilled kala fish. and of course, octopus, known as squid luau. fresh poy. you've got to have it fresh. believe me, makes all the difference in the world. fresh water snails called, i believe, hihivai, harvested from streams way up in the mountains. >> oh, that's octopus? >> you bit its eye. >> i recognize you. ♪

>> anthony, when somebody steals this, it's easy for us to say he's stealing our stuff. but all of this stuff is dependent on a healthy environment and ecosystem. >> then let me ask you, just because i have to ask this question. i have to ask. all right, so we have, like, 12 more beers, and i pull out some nice masubi. >> i wouldn't eat them. look at me. it doesn't mean that's what i'm going to feed my children. our culture made everything we did the best of the best. hawaiians are the only one to turn karo into poy. we did everything to the best of the best. if you want to introduce spam to us, we do the best.

you introduce christianity to us, we do the best. >> our christianity is better than yours. i love it. you in no way lived up to your reputation as mean, inward looking, hostile. it's a calculated strategy. >> it is. >> and i'll leave with a message. if you're watching this show, i hope your heart is swelling with admiration, but bottom line, don't come here. >> yeah! ♪

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the ocean is all around, for thousands of miles. a humbling feeling knowing at all times that the ground upon which you live and walk and breathe is but a tiny speck in the middle of all this. so when -- so in hawaii, the water man is an important distinction. you are able to handle yourself

in the ocean, no matter what it throws at you. it implies you are capable of almost mythical things. the ability to live in the water, handle its many moods. above or below the surface. meet uncle ross, waterman. a canoe surfing legend and generally accepted ambassador of the aloha spirit. he's offered to share with me a truly ancient hawaiian space, found only the face of a crashing wave. >> surfing, a life connected to the ocean and spending time with family and friends on the beach are some of the cornerstones of hawaiian life.

>> tony, that's kiola. >> how are you? >> kilani. >> how do you do? >> kiave. >> hi. >> megan. >> hello. >> those are my two daughters. this is my wife alicia. >> hello. hi. >> come say hi! >> hey, brendan, how are you? >> and milton, this is milton. >> milton, good to meet you. so how well does everybody know each other here? >> we live on an island. everybody knows everybody. >> why did i even ask? >> it's just the way we roll. >> i think i met uncle ross through the water. just surfing. and we became like family. he's like my dad. >> each and every weekend, uncle ross can be found here, with his ohana, a hawaiian word that describes an extended circle of family and close friends. >> we got lucky today. it's a beautiful day. >> beautiful day. >> even when it's storming, it's nice on the beach.

>> and we'll stay here until that thing goes down. it's the horizon. when that sun hits the horizon, it's time to go home. >> maui as an island as beautiful as it gets. sure, it's got its share of portion controlled cruise line entertainment dolled out in complementary mie ties, but you'll also find a beloved indigenous institution, like tasty crust, as local a place as you're likely to find. daniel will explain. >> it's a menu situation, or i can order for you if you trust me. i think we're going to hook you up with the local flavor. >> okay. i trust you. >> raised on the big island, he's a journalist, the first native hawaiian editor of a major surf publication and founder of the local contrast magazine. >> local culture is very much so trying to point a finger at anybody coming in going hey, you

don't belong. and therein kind of lies a conflict you have, being a modern day hawaiian. i still think that's something that we forget about these days, is how educated and how accepting our ancestors were. it was always built on inclusivity. aloha. aloha is giving without expecting anything in return. you've got this hawaiian culture that was a product of the polynesians that populated the islands. this local culture that's a product of the plantation lifestyle. so the japanese, the chinese, the koreans, the filipinos, the portuguese. >> if indeed all history can be explained by what's on your plate. this is a prime example. the plate lunch. the most identifiable and essential feature of the plate lunch is this, a big scoop, or two, of white rice and potato mac salad. there is nothing more hawaiian.

served alongside a protein like chicken katsu, or this hamburger steak, a patty drowned in dark, sinister, sticky, shiny gravy. or seared ahi with nori and sesame seed. >> oh, my gosh, that looks beautiful. >> oh yeah, that's going to work. >> all right. i sit this right on top of the rice? >> yep. you want to get some of that salad on there, too. >> got to get that sinister gravy on? dude, look what we're eating. they may not be hawaiian, but they are now. they're fundamentally local. both delicious, let's be honest, delicious, this is not healthy eating. >> yeah, and we're kind of paying the price for it right now in the health of the state, which is terrible. as i take a bite of hamburger. >> if you really want to do

hawaii right, you've got to give back. and that's a power that hawaii and the aina still has, if you give without asking, the aina is going to recognize it and it's going to shower its blessings upon you. >> so you think traditional hawaiian culture and lifestyle has a chance against the modern world? >> i think so. the beautiful part about my ancestors is they realize there was a limited number of resources, where they lived so they observe nature to the best possible they could to figure out what were the cycles and how do we preserve this resource. hawaiian culture can teach the whole world something that it needs to know is we all live on an island, and we are all part of the same community. let's all show aloha to the aina and show aloha to everybody else as well.

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an extraordinary man lives in this house. chef gordon. longtime resident on maui. legendary talent manager. maybe you know some of the

people whose careers he's looked after. alice cooper. teddy pendergrast. pink floyd. he was years ahead of the chef explosion, shepherding emeril through his early career. he's produced films, worked alongside great chefs, become close to his holiness the dalai lama, basically done everything with everybody in every place. >> i first got here 40 years ago. i put one foot on the island, i knew i was living here the rest of my life. >> you ever look out there and it's wallpaper? >> never. i say it out loud every day, and my first words in the morning are thank you, thank you, thank you, thank you, thank you, thank you. every day. >> he is one of the most generous and enthusiastic of hosts, a more standup loyal guy you could barely imagine, and it's no wonder they call the documentary based on his life "super mench." that's how he's known around the

world. here he's known as that guy who throws great parties. prep starts early. with chef's friend julio, a maui-born and bred rancher, with help from local chef sheldon simeon. middle of the night, and a traditional hole is dug. the fire allowed to burn down to coals before the pig wrapped in banana leaves and tea leaves, is dropped in. >> okay, you guys ready for the unveiling? here we go. all right. >> 12 hours later, you dig him up, and well, it's party time. >> so what you've been saying is you've been drinking steadily since 5:00 this morning? >> it didn't come out of my mouth. >> behold the magnificence. it's a very important part of

your childhood. wow, look at that. you just lift those bones out by hand. >> yep. >> you ready? >> just dump them into a bucket? awesome. >> wow. wow. that's pretty much the way i want to end up. pour me right into a pot. >> there's lots to do. everyone pitches in to help. it's an extended all day affair of prepping. chopping. dicing. slicing. mixing. and, of course, there's some sampling along the way. like this wild pig sausage that someone was nice enough to stop by with. sheldon works up a potato mac salad. >> one more time. >> julio carves up some unicorn fish, which he caught himself earlier in the day. chef mark tarbell stuffs a

couple of red fish snappers before throwing them in the oven. there's poi pounded fresh out back. and somewhere, somewhere pig's foot soup is happily bubbling away. >> try this. >> why do i want to do there's also spam noodles. there is no party without spam. by dinnertime, the beer, wine, and festive beverages have been flowing for hours. >> julio and the pigs. [ applause ] >> i've cooked a lot of things. i ain't never seen one poured into a pot.

>> it's what i love. this is what we do in the islands. this is what it's all about. >> and always bring the family. bring the kids. you rarely ever see a party where there aren't kids. >> ohana means family. >> extended family. >> it's like you're an ohana to everybody here. >> and if you're family, you can borrow money. >> and, as happens, i've come to find out, things end up in the most natural, just kind of happens way, song and some dancing. ♪ this is willie k, and that's his daughter lysette. and it's pretty damn captivating. ♪ it's getting near the end for

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needs to be some kind of sense of connection to place, and some sense of responsibility for it. the issue about being honest to place, and honest about what you love and honest to what you value is a road that you're constantly trying to be more. i don't know sometimes how to be fully honest, because i don't know enough. what i love about the oceans, that's my path. that i go on the oceans to seek that sense of truth. ♪ >> they said, i can see whales, like close up.

and i had reasons for optimism. all week i've been staring out to sea, watching humpback whales leaping out of the ocean, spouting and frolicking. so are things compared to other parts of the world, our conservation efforts as far as marine mammals, it's going well? >> that's the one thing on the planet that is. they're talking about taking humpbacks off the endangered species list. it's good to hear that they've recovered. but it may make it easy to add to the whaling list again. >> it's mating season in hawaii for the nearly 10,000 humpback whales that migrant down each year.

this doctor of the university of hawaii has dedicated his career to studying these whales. >> i think their song is the most complicated display. when you're close to a singer you can feel it with your whole body, like 185 db, really loud. wow. >> they don't mind us at all. do they? ♪

♪ ♪

oh, ho, you got it. unbelievable. >> man hunt. are these escaped kill everies hiding in plain sight? this is cnn. i'm don lemon. police scour and area eight times a football field. could they be in canada? whabt a big city like boston, new york or philadelphia? where are they now and what will they do next? i'm going to ask john walsh and dog the bounty hunter. plus, let's face it. america, we love to watch from donald trump to rachel dolazol. nothing gets us talking and watching like a train wreck. but are their 15 minutes almost up or just beginning. we're going to begin with some breaking news i need to tell you about that's just coming in to cnn.