i live my dreams, i meet my hero. two old men on a beach. ♪ singing la, la, la, la, la, la, la ♪ ♪ la, la, la, la, la, la, la ♪ everything changes. nothing changes at all. ♪ i took a walk through this beautiful world ♪ ♪ felt the cool rain on my shoulder ♪

♪ found something good in this beautiful world ♪ ♪ i felt the rain getting colder ♪ ♪ sha, la, la, la, la, la, ♪ sha, la, la, la, la, la, ♪ sha, la, la, la, la, drinking at 4:30 in the afternoon, it's the perfect time when the light is just right. it's important. also it's not too crowded. it's quiet. a man can have a drink, a pint, in a dignified fashion free of care.

>> ice, son? >> no, thank you. >> here you go. >> thank you so much. >> so you're on holiday? >> sort of. >> it's your first time in glasgow? >> no, i've been a number of times before. i haven't been in this pub before. oldest in -- >> 1510. >> 1510, amazing. >> from my very first time, it was glasgow. my favorite city in scotland. one of my favorite cities on earth.

i was going to say one of my favorite cities in europe, but is glasgow europe? i don't think so. it feels somehow older than that. to many outsiders, glasgow is seen as a hard scrabble, even fearsome place, a place that history has moved on from, but there is definitely a sense here that something different is around the corner. >> it'll be one of the most important events in scottish and british history. more than 4 million people will decide whether scotland should stay in the u.k. or become an independent country. >> will scotland stay or will it leave the union? >> scottish independence could mark the beginning of the end of the u.k. as we know it. >> but in the end, 55% of scots voted to stay in the union. that left almost half the population still hungry for independence.

and with 73.5% of teenagers voting yes, england had its undies very much in a bunch over the possibility of an unraveling of the union in scotland. it is an idea that is overwhelmingly popular in this city above all others. >> glasgow is a gutsy city. different outlook. new generation, but i still hear the cries of yesterday. >> why does the possibility of independence have such a powerful hold on glasgow? the past. glasgow has long endured, among other things, a reputation for being the most violent area in the u.k. it's a familiar cycle, amalgamous in many ways to what we see elsewhere. hard times, disappearing

manufacturing base, unemployment, a general sense of apathy that the government can't, or won't, fix what's broken. that in the corridors of power of london, they just don't give a shit about glasgow. especially glasgow's east side. like a lot of cities, like most cities, in fact, glasgow is divided. the river clyde divides the north and south sides, but the bigger more tangible divide is between east and west. the west, things are expected to be, well, nice. nice cars, nice families, all the nice stuff that affluence supposedly brings. east side, that's where you grow up hard, where things are rougher, where you've got, according to popular legend, to fight to live every day. >> in scotland, if you're a young boy in scotland and you're 9 or 10 and you're coming home

from school a big guy beats you up and you run home to your mom crying, do you know what she'll do? she'll give you a cuddle and then she'll tell you get back there and get him. don't let anybody ever do that to you. and if you need a stick, get a stick. if you need a brick, get a brick. don't let anyone do that to you. that's what we do. and it makes us dangerous enemies, resourceful enemies, but it also makes us very loyal allies. >> detective john karnishen, 38 years on the job. much of it as murder police on the east side. he's seen it all. confronted with violent hooliganism, the traditional approach has always been to get out there bust some heads, make some stats, put up some numbers, lock up some perpetrators. but after decades of dealing with generation after generation of violence, much of it gang related, he took a controversial new tactic.

along with a colleague, he established a new unit called the violence reduction unit and focused their efforts on the social problems he felt led directly to violent crime. his peers unsurprisingly were dubious, but as of 2014 scotland is at a 40-year low of violent crime. retired from the force, he now advises law enforcement around the world. when in town, though, he likes to come here -- typical scottish fare, mother india. for lamb curry simmered in spicy tomato gravy served with traditional non-scottish bread. >> i know glasgow is a traditionally tough town. i've always seen it as a warm and welcoming place. it's always been one of my favorite places in this part of the world to visit. do you think the town's reputation is deserved or is this a -- >> nope. i mean in terms of labeling the violence, the facts are the

facts. that's there. but statistically, if you don't live or come from glasgow, your chances of being a victim of a violent attack in glasgow is something like .000. >> i've never, ever, ever felt -- and i've done a fair amount of stupid behavior here, a fair amount of drinking, a fair amount of putting myself in the sort of situations that they advise visitors to a new town not to take. i've never felt uncomfortable here. i could be wrong in that after a few drinks i notice that i don't understand anyone. they could be making various threats of violence to me at the bar, and i could just be smiling and nodding. [ laughter ] >> indian food is, of course, huge here as it is everywhere in the u.k.

you could venture a guess that it is the cold, damp weather that causes the heart to yearn for food from spicy climates. that whole takeover india thing. all i can say is pass the rogan josh. >> so how do you reduce violence? i mean, traditionally we would just need more police. get out there, crack some skulls, throw some people in jail, problem solved. a good number of americans probably still believe that very much. we're very fond of throwing people in prison. to suggest otherwise would be seen as coddling criminals. >> absolutely, and it was the same here. we started to think about it in entirely different ways. violence is a public health issue. we all have the capacity for violence. people at home learn not to be violent. that's why early years are

important because things that happen then will effect their whole life course about how they make decisions about themselves and how they judge risk. no matter how good the police service is, it will just contain and manage the problem. it won't make it better. >> first of all, it's not what i expect to hear from somebody who spent 38 years with murder police presumably busting heads. that we should hug these bastards more -- >> yes, absolutely. >> everything you've said -- >> this is going to take a generation. they go, oh, politicians don't have a generation. >> they're worried about the newscast on monday at 6:00. >> the headlines, absolutely. the truth is we don't have it sorted here, but we're on a journey. >> so what's going right here? let's face it.

this is one of the most awesome cities anywhere. >> people. that's how it's going. i say we can't keep doing this. let's try something different.

♪

♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪

look, i don't want to give you the impression that glasgow is an impoverished wasteland filled with violent hooligans and gang members, an impression shared by many europeans as well.

let's face it. detroit or new orleans, most american cities make this town look like club med by comparison. glasgow remains the region's no bull shit zone. what i find most endearing in this town is if you're a native, you're probably an expert at taking a piss. a high level style of ball busting that approaches an art form around here. >> well, it's good to be back at work again. >> no one excels more at deflating the pompous, making fun of self-importance, turning even the darkest tragedy into comedy than glaswegians. that's if you can understand the bastards.

this can be a challenge, particularly after a couple of pints of heavy or buckfast. >> glasgow has a reputation of being a hard drinking, two-fisted town. >> yeah. >> i've always found it to be this funny, very funny town. >> very dark humor. if you say in america, my father died, people immediately are so sympathetic. in glasgow if you say my father's died, the glaswegians say what size were his shoes. we have that. >> jamie godley grew up on the east end, married into an organized crime dynasty, worked as a bartender, became a very famous playwright, author, and stand-up comedian.

i thought i'd meet her here at a very old-school institution. jamie's working some goat cheese thing with figs. for me, scottish oysters are an irresistible impulse. they are magnificent, by the way. >> what a lot of people abroad don't understand is women are the backbone of many of the communities because the men were always drunk and working in the shit yards and dying young and that still exists, tony. the age expectancy is still 55. in fallujah, iraq, it is still 65. >> wow, that's still an extraordinary thing. >> yeah, i know. there's still a lot of crime,

drugs, a lot of alcohol problems. i think the fact that we are a bit helps us because we had the commonwealth games here, and i loved that everybody tried not to shout in the street and swear and sell stolen goods in public. i loved how they had this covert operation of "let's be nice for a week." i loved that. >> main course, jamie goes for the pan-fried gill. i can't pass up the ocean liner fabulously loved dish, lobster thermador. it is scottish, as is the cheese, eggs, everything really. >> do you have anything to say on the glaswegian diet? >> the diet, it's really interesting. >> the story is that health wise, as far as heart problems, right behind tonga for all time worst, least healthy. >> it's really bad because when ate fish, butter beans, poor, we

potatoes. then we would have liver and onions and potatoes and cabbage and peas. somewhere from the mid '70s onwards, it just became crap. now you have a generation of women who don't know how to make a pot of soup. to be a real glaswegian housewife, you have to be able to make a pot of soup. i can't make soup. the joke is i'm apparently good at sex. sex takes five minutes. soup can take days. my husband has never asked for soup. so that works. >> there's a terrific music scene in glasgow. the pubs are among the finest anywhere. they sat the glaswegians have more fun at a funeral than people in edinburgh have at a wedding.

that does invite, from time to time, admittedly a fair amount of knuckle-headed behaviors. if you're looking for a beer and a beating, glasgow will happily provide it. the toughness thing is no joke. if you ever try to choke a small glaswegian into unconsciousness as i have, long story, it is like wrestling with an angry fire plug. it's nearly impossible. also it hurts. access to guns is extremely difficult here. they have to resort to the knife to do its maiming and killing the old country way. one person at a time. >> a stabbing might not get more than a few lines down in a column in the glasgow papers because in this city ordinary

stabbing is hardly news anymore. >> where night violence is an affliction, there must be a cure. meet mark davies. he began his career working as a bouncer in some of the east side's toughest drinking establishments where he had plenty of opportunities to hone his skills. now he runs tactical edge. come at him with a knife, the overwhelming likelihood is that it will soon be hanging out of your ass. >> generally these courses start come at me with a knife and a guy comes at you like it is "friday the 13th." pretty much nobody outside of "friday the 13th" in my experience has ever come at anyone like this. if someone does come, they're rushing at you with multiple -- in a manic frenzy of multiple jabbing or slashing movements. >> yes. your attacker is being affected by adrenaline.

you tend to get these repeated lines of attack. if they're going for the stomach, it is a sewing machine kind of action. >> is your first order of business deflecting or getting the knife away from them? >> right. i'm either going to gain control of the weapon or go to a returning blade technique where i gain control of the weapon and return it to sender. >> right. show me. >> okay. the thing about knife defense is there's no -- there's no magic bullet. any technique can fail. any technique can go wrong. if there's multiple opponents, that can get a bit difficult as well. here, this sort of thing, yeah?

if we've got the knife held up close, okay, yeah, pull, hit. now i'm going to force this thing back into your sternum repeatedly like a woodpecker. put your hands up, brute force, back and forth, charge. that's it. charge. so mugging, i'm going to pin your hand to me so i own the weapon, and i'm going to slap backwards into the groin. i'm going to hit, come up, grab. now i'm going to introduce point a with point b. when i do that a few times, it is like taking a baked potato out of the microwave. it's going to be really hot, so you're going to want to let go. so bang, bang, bang, bang.

this is a little bit more close and sort of vicious. everybody doesn't see it. i've cleared the weapon. shift yourself, knee him in the balls, straight under. return to sender. >> that was an education. >> no problem. >> i enjoyed that. great job! okay! here you go. good catch! alright, now for the best part. ooh, let's get those in the bowl. these are way too good to waste, right? [ male announcer ] share what you love with who you love. kellogg's frosted flakes. they're gr-r-reat!

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♪ last night in glasgow i had enough with the deeper issues. now i want to go no deeper than the bottom of a bubbling cauldron of hot grease. it's out there. it's calling to me. i want it now. a happy place from my past where once i frolicked young and

carefree in the field of fried arts. the university cafe where i learned at the foot of the masters the dao of hot fat and crispy batter. yes, they do a deep-fried mars bar here and deep-fried pizza. been there, done that. carlo here and his twin brother have been keeping the family tradition alive since 1918, and it ain't about no mars bar. >> i'm tempted to go completely nuts for all the things i like, like pie, beans, and chips. i don't even know what pie. cheese beano, i don't know what that is, but i kind of want it. ooh, sausage roll. i do like a good sausage. >> i order the fish and chips and some haggis. haddock battered and floating,

adrift in a sea of mysterious life-giving oil. the accumulated flavors of many magical things as it bobs like noah's ark, bringing life in all its infinite variety. deep-fried haggis, my personal favorite. sinister sheep parts, in tube form in this case. if you don't like chopped up liver and lungs and all that stuff, believe me, the curry sauce sets you right. the combination of french fries or chips in the local dialect with curry sauce and cheese is perhaps a bro too far. guy fieri in a kilt, but what the hey. >> i'm pretty sure god is against this. oh, yeah, definitely. that's good. doesn't eat well with a fork. you really have to pick this up. so ashamed.

oh, yeah. clean living. that's really one of life's great pleasures. don't let them tell you otherwise. they're lying about you, mr. haggis. there was no more unfavorably reviled food on earth than haggis. it's ingredients are no more unusual or bizarre or unappetizing than any hot dog you ever ate. how many anal glands are in a chicken nugget? i don't know, and i'm not suggesting there are anal glands in a chicken nugget, but would you be surprised if there were?

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heading north out of

glasgow, scotland quickly becomes something else. a savagely beautiful, harsh but absolutely mesmerizing landscape that seems to have changed not at all for thousands, even millions of years. and across loch maree and accessible only by boat, one of the great isolated estates, letterewe. it's the favorite retreat of my friend, adrian gill. more widely known as a.a. gill, he's the much feared and widely followed restaurant critic for the "london sunday times," a regular columnist for a spectra of magazines, author, traveller, and one of the finest essayists of our time. letterewe, as it stands today, was built as a shooting lodge. deer stalking like they do here is something from another era,

but it persists in places like this which both protect and cull deer populations. if you are like us, of course, two murderous aristocrats looking to put some venison on the table, you need help, professional help. and estates like letterewe come with a stalker. stephen miller has been working here for eight seasons now, both protecting the animals who live on it and helping people like us in the arduous and delicate task of sneaking up on them. we would as gentlemen of leisure require a cook and adrian has recommended well-suited fiona cullinane, a woman who excels at this scottish traditional game cookery. for dinner, it's grouse. shot, then hung until the already funky game bird gets pleasingly ripe.

the birds are rubbed inside and out with salt and pepper, some fresh thyme jammed in the cavity. browned in the pan, plenty of butter to baste with. bread sauce is a must. we don't do this in america, but here it's essential. basically, it's milk simmered with flavoring agent like oignon pique and nutmeg and bay leaf and then thickened with raspings of bread. grouse barded with bacon, then roasted in the oven. nicely rare to medium rare and then removed to rest in a pan deglazed with red wine. game stock is added and the sauce reduced, topped with watercress alongside some parsnips and beet root. >> so explain what we're eating, because this is as classic as it gets. >> this is specifically scottish. this is a grouse, which is the only truly wild game bird in britain.

they're the most highly prized as a sporting bird. they're the most difficult to shoot, but more importantly they're the most prized to eat. >> this bread sauce thing, what is that? >> bread sauce, you have to grow up here to love this. it is like pottage. it's soft. it's a very old dish, but it goes very well with -- grouse, they're a very gamey meat. it's a very grown-up taste that is slightly repellant, but within that, it is particularly alluring. >> right. >> there is something also sexual about it that people don't often talk about. >> right, right. so good. >> i went to a vegetarian school. my parents sent me to a vegetarian boarding school, and

for nine years, the year after i left, i was a vegetarian. >> nine years as a vegetarian, that's unthinkable to me. >> then i decided not to be. i made the decision if i was going to eat meat again, then i had to be prepared to do the whole business. >> right. you've got to be accountable. >> for all of it. for all of it. so i started getting the fish with the guts in and then gutting them. you want to eat it? come and kill it. you go, well, then i have to do that as well. when i started doing it, it was like coming home. and that's the thing with being on the hill.

>> until the 19th century, the scottish highlands were seen by many as a mysterious, hostile, and dangerous land, populated when populated at all by scary ass barbarians, tribes so ferocious, so extravagant in their violence and toughness that even the roman legions decided not to mess with them, and instead built a wall, hoping to just keep them out and away from civilized society. later hunting estates like this were home to tenant formers who scrounged a living by growing potatoes. today around half the land in scotland is owned by fewer than 500 people. it's an anachronism. it's seductive as well.

who wouldn't do this, if they could? enjoy this kind of rugged solitude from a warm, inviting 17th century lodge. warm one's legs by the fire, play a little snooker, enjoy a single malt or two, the substantial game meal, maybe another whiskey perhaps, contemplate the mysteries of the universe under a starry sky and then to sleep into the arms of morpheus, then to rise in the morning as bringer of death. stephen and adrian keep calling it the hill, but that ain't no hill i've ever seen. it's a behemoth, an endless range of behemoths, one mountain giving way to a moor, then giving way to another mountain

and then another and then more. it's a daunting hike. the climb gradual, then steep. the footing ranging from rocky to spongy and wet. mile after mile. me, trying to look cool. make it seem like this is nothing unusual, but really i'm nothing unusual, but really i'm dying. ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪

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show more of you.

we walked the highlands for hours. our stalker stephen finally identifies a red stag of suitable age and size, one ready in the parlance to be taken off the hill. getting in a range without scaring him off, however, is another challenge. we need to circle around the mountain to close the distance. >> there's not a lot i can do. so we go slowly.

just pretend we're hikers at the moment. bobble hat. >> what? >> if you put a bobble hat on, the deer think you're a hiker. >> can you see the antlers? >> yeah. >> get down. stay down, stay down.

dig in nice and steady. take your time. [ gunshot ] >> that's a nice stag. >> ten points. >> is that good? >> he was never going to get any better. do you want to use your knife? >> yeah. ♪

♪ ♪ >> for shooting your first red stag in scotland, we all get blooded. >> oh. it's best if you close your eyes. >> ah. oh, okay. >> and the rule is you have to leave it on. >> yeah. >> all day.

♪ >> you going, chaps? >> as getting vehicles up here would be both difficult and destructive, the estate has maintained the tradition of using highland ponies to retrieve the stalked deer. they're bred to be strong and trained to do this work. they'll likely make it back sooner than we will. >> thanks, chaps. we'll catch you later on at some point. good boy. >> i thought, coming up my legs burning, i can't wait until that nice, easy downhill walk back. but as i soon find out, the walk

down is even harder. knees screaming, face crusted with dry blood, i'm looking forward to a warm fire, a strong whiskey, and some good country ass cooking. ♪ about a biologic, this is humira. this is humira helping to relieve my pain and protect my joints from further damage. this is humira helping me reach for more. doctors have been prescribing humira for more than 10 years. humira works for many adults. it targets and helps to block a specific source of inflammation that contrubutes to ra symptoms. humira can lower your ability to fight infections, including tuberculosis. serious, sometimes fatal infections and cancers, including lymphoma, have happened, as have blood, liver and nervous system problems, serious allergic reactions, and new or worsening heart failure. before treatment, get tested for tb.

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♪ >> so what do you fancy with venison? stewed with wine? >> they always marinate juniper and all of that. super simple. >> okay. we'll do that. ♪ >> the venison is seasoned with salt and pepper and rosemary seared in duck fat and then into the oven.

a pan sauce made from the fawn, red wine and deep game stock, sweetened with currant jelly and finished with a mellowing knob of whole butter. served with clap shot, basically mashed turnips and potatoes. >> that's it. that's the end of the season. hugely the girls will be getting it. then you start killing the girls. have you traditionally where there's the leather mask to the stag and you -- and you send them notes beforehand saying i'm watching you. i know where you live.

>> we deserve this. >> we've worked for it, huh? >> yeah. literally the greatest feat of strength of my entire life. never at any time in my entire life have i done anything so remotely physical over a sustained period of time. >> really? >> never. >> look how well you've done. >> at no point previously in my life would i have been able to do it. thank you, guys. >> here's to the best of health, folks. >> all the best. >> good shot. >> a safer place for ramblers. it's a lot safer now that we're not on our land.

>> i came to scotland this time to shoot an animal in the heart, to take part, to be fully culpable in a practice nearly as old as these hills. you walk this country stalking an animal across the rocks and wet heather, you feel little has changed from how your distant ancestors must have searched for their food with a rifle, with a spear, with a club. i drag my knuckles up a hill and like my ape-like predecessors return tired, happy and covered in blood. everything changes. nothing changes at all.

when i was kid, my grandparents teach that there are some people who have been in madagascar before. they were very little people and they live in forests and they respect their environment. but then comes many people from other countries, from africa,