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tv   Anthony Bourdain Parts Unknown  CNN  July 1, 2015 9:00pm-10:01pm PDT

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well, that does it for us. we'll smell you later. yo, yo, yo, yo. "anthony bourdain, parts unknown" starts now. [ speaking french ] ♪ ♪ i took a walk through this
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beautiful world ♪ felt the cool rain on my shoulder. found something good in the beautiful world ♪ i felt the rain getting colder ♪ sha-lal ala, la ♪ ♪ >> it takes a special breed to live in a province like quebec. it gets cold in winter and winters are long.
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it takes a special kind of person for whom frozen rivers, icy wind whipped seas, endliless forests are the norm. i will confess by partisanship up front. i love montreal. it's my favorite place in canada. the people who live there are tough, crazy bastards and i admire them for it. toronto, vancouver, i love you, but not like montreal. why? i shall explain. all will be revealed. in the meantime, check this guy out. what's the post office's motto, neither rain, nor sleet nor driving snow no plague of locusts prevent the mail carrier from delivering my junk mail? here in montreal, this simple task of delivering the mail in winter comes with its own set of hurdles, icy hurdles. i got to ask, do you have
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special equipment for this? >> we have slip-on boots. we do have boots so when it is icy with spikes on them. and they give us slip-on spikes for when it is icy. ♪ >> any sort of city ordinance that you have shovel -- you are not penalize sfld no, nothing like. >> any injuries in the line of duty? i have had several tumbles. one incident i was off for two months. broke my ankle. >> what is more perilous, dogs or icy stairs. >> in this area there are a lot of dogs but icy stairs. ♪ it's one thing to have to work outside in this wintry mess, but it takes a strange, wonderful kind of mutant to actually find
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it pleasurable. like, well, these two gentlemen. do you like the cold? i mean, what. >> it cleans the streets of ebola. >> frigid cold keeps the riff-raff out of the city for sure. >> reporter: restaurant tour, chefs at the legendary restaurant, historians of their beloved great white north. princes of hospitality. and what do men like this do for fun when the rivers turn to ice three feet thick. when test tickles shrink and most of tus scurry for warmth. ice fishing on the st. lawrence river. >> because we are confined perhaps to spend so much time indoors, a lot of them love to do activities together, like go
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to the cottage, ice fishing. if it gets you out of the house. it is very much a family thing. >> they seek one of the temporary small towns, drill a hole in the ice and wait but these are not normal men. >> is quebec better than the rest of canada. >> obviously. >> come on. you didn't have to think that long. >> no. >> are they paid hourly, not a tip system. >> performance art. >> how does that work? >> pay for song. in then you can get a dance in the back which is a private dance and that's 10 bucks a song, 5 bucks a song in public. >> that's why i go to -- strip bars because their songs are super long. i'm cheap. i go for the cheap drinks and lap dance.
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>> after a suspiciously stunned looking fish emerges from the deep, it is ignored because they do things differently. no crudely fried fish and bread crumbs for these large living 19th century men. >> holy [ bleep ] look at that. ♪ >> instead a hearty lunch of french classics, accompanied by fine wines and liqueurs. of /* as gentlemen of discerning tastes who have exhausted themselves in the wild. >> so this is how you live. >> more often than not, yes. we always have to travel well and eat properly. white burgundy, bay oysters and a couple of -- thrown in there. they are delicious. prized possession. >> yeah. >> funnest part about the restaurant business isn't the cutlery. the spoon is gorgeous. fred has a wonderful collection
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of table ware. without getting snobby or elitist, you are eating off of vintage table ware is one of the great joys of life. >> this is the interesting paradox of you guys. you aspire to a democratic establishment open to all and yet you are hopeless romantics when it comes to the art of living. but the sustenance is required. look at this. like say ox tail followed perhaps bay chilled lobster ala par reezian. >> the art of dining is disappearing much to our chagrin. i work super hard at being an excellent dining companion. >> when seeking excellence in a dining companion what qualities does one look for? >> i turn my phone off. i never put my elbows on the table. >> really? >> of course. come prepaired with stories.
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don't drink too much. don't bp sloppy. no elbows on the table? >> no. it's not proper. >> i am a total failure as a dining companion. what is that? what's that, you ask, an iconic classic of gastronomy. >> look at that sauce. holy crap. the devilishly difficult royale, a boneless wild hare sered on top of the wood stove. >> oh, look at that. >> we're in a wooden shack over three feet of ice, 100 feet of water. >> you are hopeless romantics, gentlemen. oh, look at that. the sered foie is perched atop an ethereal inspired potato
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puree. of course. >> this is from the vineyard. >> nice. wonderful. >> is there a billionaire on earth who at this precise moment is eating better than us? >> no. >> no. >> look at that. >> cheese, there must be cheese. in this case of some less hearty outdoorsmen might call overripe but not us. this is awesome. >> what is here? wait, you have a much more relaxed attitude toward importation of cuban cigars. ♪ >> shar truds of course and a dessert as rare as it gets a dinosaur era monster long believed extinct. who does this?
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>> none of those painful nostalgic -- >> layers of almond and hazelnut meringue, chocolate butter cream. my god. look at that. damn, that's good. >> for these guys, this is normal. this is lunch. >> like play house in my house. french play house. >> what do you do. >> get dressed at their house. >> no way. >> on sunday. last time i made salad i made with crème fraiche and 15 kinds of cheese. >> how many people are in your family at this meal. >> him and his wife and two young boys. >> so you your wife and 2 and 4-year-old. >> they don't make it to the end usually.
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i'm prematurely open. >> i'm thinking, that -- i am thinking i have to do that. my daughter would be in on it. ♪ michelob ultra. the superior light beer. he needed help all day so i adopted him.r. when my back pain flared up, we both felt it. i tried tylenol but it was 6 pills a day. with aleve it's just two pills, all day. now i'm back! aleve. all day strong. for the best first impression. love loud, live loud, polident. ♪
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>> once every few decades, maybe every century, a nation will produce a hero. an escoffiere, a muhammad ali, a dalai lama, joey marrone. someone who changes everything about their chosen field, who changes the whole landscape. life after them is never the same. martin picard is such a man. a here to forean encounter hybrid of rugged outdoorsman, veteran chef, with many years of fine dining experience.
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renegade, innovator, he's one of the most influential chefs in north america. he's also a proud quebecois, and perhaps he more than everyone else has defined for a new generation of americans and canadians what that means. he is an unlikely ambassador for his country and his province. but maybe not so unlikely. i mean, look at him. out for a day trapping beaver with local trapper karl. so the bait is wood? >> yeah. just the bark. >> they eat the bark? >> yeah, yeah, yeah. >> are i understand in pioneer days beaver was the financial engine of canada. empires were built on it. every hat practically in the world was made of befr pelt. >> that's why today it is the icon of canada. >> to a less er extent the tradition continues today. karl continues to trap, usually called on by provincial
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officials to trap beaver and clear away dams and control what could become a destructively overpopulated situation. >> hello, my little friend. >> this is a young one. those are the ones we want to eat. >> what would you compare the meat to? is there anything like hi it? >> that's the thing, there's nothing like it. you know, when you eat beaver, you understand it is beaver. ♪ >> martin, along with an enpsych low pedic knowledge of fine wines, and attachment to the music of celine dion is a big believer in honoring history and tradition. if you still trap beavers, you should, if at all possible, cook them and eat them, not just strip them of their pelts. and as incredible as it might seem, you can cook beaver really, really well. beaver tail, on the other hand is not actually beaver at all.
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rather a quick spoonbread type of thing that in our case goes somewhat awry during an inadvertent inferno. ♪ the sauce almost looks like chocolate. so rich looking. >> i love it when it is like that. some people don't put too much blood but i like when it is very thick. >> wow. it's absolutely delicious. >> yeah, it s. i wasn't joking about it. >> it tastes like chicken. [ laughter ] no it doesn't taste like chicken at all. >> this is your first time? >> yeah. >> wow. that's something. i think you almost eat everything. >> yeah, at this point, you know, animals, they see me and they are like oh -- [ laughter ] >> not him. >> yeah, not that guy. >> there's a joker around here somewhere but to tell you the truth, the stuff is just too good.
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it's like ten below zero in this freaking town. and that generally does not spell good for time more me. a good time for me is more like a palm tree, a beach, a swimming pool with only cold thing is my beer. but no. these hearty culinaryians like to frolic in the snow and ice. more accurately they like to obey their genetic quebecois imperative to risk dental and max low facial injury by skating around, slapping at a hard disk and trying to drive it in each other's general direction. i believe they call this sport hockey. this is not in my blood. do you skate? >> we grew up on rinks like this. >> does everyone in quebec,
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pretty much obligatory. >> no reason to live here if there is no hockey. >> hockey rinks pop up all over the city. right behind fred and dave's restaurant, a pickup game of chefs, cooks and hospitality professionals is underway. >> some of these guys are long in the tooth to be out there swinging sticks at each other and skidding around in the ice. this is normal behavior, people do this for fun? >> this is every day. canadian national sport, man. >> this young one is already being indoctrine nated. hello, young man. >> are you going to play hockey? are you going to be a goalie or player? >> player. >> wow. >> a player. >> am i going to get a mouth full of puck by the way? ♪ >> being catered with fred and dave's usual restraint. ♪
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>> come eat. >> hot cocoa in styrofoam cups, no. try a "titanic" chucrut chucrute garni ala, containing flient stone sized hunks of pork belly, bacon, homemade boudin blanc kielbasa, smoked chops, plus veal and pork links. >> oh, yes, this is truly heroic chucrute. >> look at that beautiful work of linking. >> this dish is a single best argument for sharing a border with germany. >> and of course the finest wines known to humanity. >> german swine, silvaner in pirate bottles. >> sweet, what am i drinking here.
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>> canadian riesling. this is norman hardie riesling prince prince albert county five hours from here. amazing wine. >> there is an allegory here somewhere. i'm reaching for it. something about fred and dave's reckless abandon coupled with precision and technique. i steps machine and get my number which matches my dr. scholl's custom fit orthotic inserts. now i get immediate relief from my foot pain. my knee pain. find a machine at drscholls.com
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you wouldn't order szechuan without checking the spice level. it really opens the passages. waiter. water. so why would you invest without checking brokercheck? check your broker with brokercheck.
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fly off the fork and land in somebody's soup. i was so bad. i'd start with the arms. run into trouble. i'd be right back. stripping the thing. at least once a day. one of the students would set themselves or the customers on fire. >> but the sterno would like spill and they'd light it. there would be this line from the thing down across the floor up their leg. no, that doesn't happen here. like i said, professionals. >> this is going to go like a big fireball. >> fireball, good. >> the kind you know how to properly prepare these dishes.
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>> sweet. >> like a goose bump moment. >> for dave, another classic. fillet dubouf, a filet mignon, a sauce made of cognac, cream. >> that is nice. look at that. >> and for fred, scampi newburg. when is the last time you saw the word newburg on a menu? awesome. absolutely awesome. >> but for me, that most noble of dishes dover sole. in this appears to be one of the few remain servers in the world who knows how to take the fish off the bone, and properly serve it. >> thank you very much. >> and i love this place. so happy. it's very comforting. there's continuity in this world.
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>> across town -- ♪ >> another thing entirely. the younger, wilder la faire ketchup, which i am informed means everything's cool in local idiom. at this point in nye life, i just don't know any more. are these young cooks, these servers, these dedicated entrepreneurs, are they hipsters or am i just a cranky old [ muted ] who thinks anybody below the age of 30 is a hipster. i don't know. but i admire them. >> how much do they cost you when you hope? >> look at this tiny electric four-burner stove. at no point did my cooking career, could have i worked with one of these without murdering everyone in the vicinity before hanging myself from the nearest beam. >> how long did it take you to adopt? >> i would say like three
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months. at the beginning, i was lucky that i didn't have like a lot of -- i was like, oh, man. i was freaking out. >> and yet, these kids today, look at them go, serving a wildly ambitious and quite substantial ever changing menu out of this suzi homemaker oven. tonight there's razor clams and a cream of haddock roe. >> very cool, thank you. i love razor clams. >> and cok st. jac. nobody seems to skimp on the portions. head cheese with an cassese mustard and truffled sweet breads. and you got goose hearts for good measuresh. >> goose heart. >> excellent goose heart. >> hearts in general. >> also grilled tomato bread with sald cod for you anglos.
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>> i'm all swollen up like the michelin tire dude and ready to burst in an opny direction counsel mist. hotel motel time for me.
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♪ >> how canadien is quebec? are they truly one en tyty or two? this is a question that's been wrestled with for some time. quebec is certainly part of canada, but in many ways, both culturally, spiritually, linguistically it is very much another thing entirely. there's a lot of history, much of it contentious. go back far enough and you get a clearer picture of why. ♪ the french arrived on the shores of quebec city in the early a 16th century and suck conducumb strenth great britain. succeeding a notion that persists to some extent even today.
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journalist patrick lagasse meets me to help me understand a little bit of what many feel is at stake. >> i was going to talk about the whole history of french quebecois identity, separatist movement almost but i have to get to the pressing matter of the dthe day, pasta gate. >> for those not up on current quebec politic, pasta gate refers to an incident where local authorities notified an italian restaurant they were in violation of french laws because they used the word pasta, which is italian. >> this is -- okay. stop apologizing, okay. >> don't get me wrong. my last name bourdain, i lean french hard. >> i do not think it is preposterous but we have a situation. >> it is stupid. i agree with you completely that
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this province 40 years ago was in some respects an english city. we needed to have language laws for signage and stuff. >> signage for instance must by law be principally in french. french first in all things. >> but every bureaucracy produces by-products of stupidity and you know what, it will not sdpland the angelo canadians treated them like second class crap for much of history so i get it. i would be pissed, too. i'd want my own thing and make sure there is no back sliding to the bad old days. >> the first sovereign aspired to be elected was elected in 1976, it didn't come out of a vacuum, but a couple of decades of awakening and struggle. >> 50 years from now will people speak french in montreal? >> yes. >> no doubt about it? >> no doubt about it.
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>> how far and how rig lousily you want to go with that, well -- >> do you think there is any possibility or real majority of quebecois who would have voted in separate nation status? >> in english you guys say timing is everything. >> yeah. >> timing was never better than in the period 1990, 1991, 1992. because this country came inches from being broken up. >> do you think it will ever happen in the history of the world? >> i don't know. but i know one thing. anybody who says separatism is dead in the country in this province is a fool. >> no matter how you feel about quebec, it is either separate from or an essential part of greater canada, any reasonable person loves this place. correct me if i am wrong, wilensky is famous for the sandwich. what tradition does this fall. >> eastern europe. it was a survival thing.
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it was because they were poor and that's what they could make. ♪ wilenskies, an old school around the corner restaurant serving up baloney sandwiches along with egg greens and milk shakes. >> so this special, an appropriate beverage egg cream, very happy. here's how it goes. there are rules. the special is always served with mustard. it is never cut in two. don't ask why, just because. that's the way it's always been done. a little respect for tradition, please. i'm happy now. some things are beloved institutions for a reason. this is delicious. thank you. ♪ phillips' fiber good gummies plus energy support.
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it's a new fiber supplement that helps support regularity and includes b vitamins to help convert food to energy. mmmmm, these are good! nice work, phillips! the tasty side of fiber, from phillips'.
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♪ >> the tradition of sugar shack is as old as maple syrup here in quebec. for 70% of the world supply comes from. deeply embedded in the maple syrup outdoor lumberjack lifestyle is the cabin in the woods where maple sap is collected and boiled done to syrup. over time, many of these cabins became informal eating houses. dining halls for worker and a few guests where a lucky few could sit at communal tables and enjoy the bowty of the trees and forests around them. martin picard has taken the tradition to what is somehow the logical conclusion and insane
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extreme. creating his own open only during maple season and serving food stemming directly from those humble, yaet hearty roots. it makes perfect sense in one way. 130 acres produce about 38 gallons of maple sap which run through these tubes to here where they are cooked down to 800 gallons of syrup, which is more or less what they use for seasoning here. nothing leaves the property. it makes sense while you are here to raise hogs and cattle on the property and maybe keep a cabin or two for friends who get too loaded to sleep it off. but this? this is their, is there any reason for this? ♪ what do you do here? why do you have to make life so hard. if money were your primary
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motivation, this doesn't seem like the fastest road to untold wealth. >> grandfather had a sugar shack. everybody, you can go back three generations, they had a sugar shack. i'm proud of quebec. i'm proud of canada, you know. >> you celebrate canadian history. you celebrate a canadian traditions. you celebrate canadian ingredients in a way no one else has. are you a patriot is that what is going on here? is it national fervor. >> this is one of the most important restaurants to me in north america if not the world. it is an art if you look at it. ♪ the meal begins, begins with a tower of maple desserts. good lord. sponge maple toffee, maple doe nuts, beaver tails, maple cotton candy but wait there's more.
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almond croissants, nougat,s by biscuits. >> i think that is a first for me. never seen that done. not with a hammer. >> next a whole lobe of foie gras with bake beans cooked in duck fat, cottage cheese and eggs cooked in maple syrup. wow, that's awesome. >> a healthy salad, sauted duck hearts, gizzards and pigs ear and topped with a heaping pile of pork rynes. oh, and a maple bacon omelet. and these -- >> how is this made? >> with love. >> with love. >> panko encrusted drumsticks with mousse and barbecue sauce. good lord. >> this is a classic dish.
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it is meat pie. a lot of cheese, foie gras, calf brain, bacon and arugula. but with martin that is not sufficient. >> usually no truffles but i just -- >> more truffles. my blood is getting thicker as i look at that. >> now the main course, a home grown smoked right out front local ham with pineapple and green beans almondine. and chicken with but with martin, the chicken is never just chicken. >> that stuff foie gras and lobster. we put lobster bisque in to the chicken. >> good god. there is a life at the end of the tunnel. >> oh, someone should be singing the national anthem now.
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really. >> practically prehistoric old school canadian classic, maple syrup is heated and poured on snow becoming a kind of taffy. but the preferred delivery mechanism does present some issues. ♪ >> no, no. >> take a big one and you have to suck it. don't swallow it, you know? look. you have to go like that. slowly, slowly. you know? slowly, slowly. that's how it is good. that's it. >> can i do that in a manly way? you just don't look down. look away, a distracted way. >> the best way is to look up. [ laughter ] finally there's maple meringue
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cake and maple ice cream with chocolate shards. >> any suggestion how to attack this? >> we did it once. i chefs suggest you eat the ice cream like that. >> that's the thing. i think there is too much focusing on the food. you know, like wow, this is very intellectual and blah blah. . too much all of those -- i don't want to do that. i don't want to play game anymore. >> food is feces in waiting. [ laughter ] >> this is cnn. leave early go roam sleep in sleep out star gaze dream big wander more care less beat sunrise chase sunset do it all. on us.
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if there is one thing you always need on a cold snowy night it is another hearty meal. i meet back up with fred and dave in liverpool house. the sister restaurant to joe beef. >> i think we always compensate a little bit with overabundance of food because of our insecurity of not being like good cooks. you know, it is a combination of low self esteem and generosity that explain s the amount of food. ♪ >> first course. >> sauvignon blanc.
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>> unbelievable. look at the work. >> this is smoked veal with potatoes inside. salmon, pass strammy. >> this is super classy. >> and this, au gelee, classically garnished with white ham, tear gone leaves and black truffles. i was pretty sure i would live the rest of my life without see tg this ever again. delicious. but tonight, after a full week of franco canadian full-on assaults on our livers and our lights, they thought it would be merciful to take advantage of the lighter, insanely delicious fare by their brilliant chef omar from pakistan. amazing, authentic, pakistani food. what do we have here? >> buttered chicken crab,
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eggplants, braised with anar seeds, mushrooms, fingering with fenl. this is donkey. >> he did say donkey. is there something wrong with that? the dishes continue, pakistani gumbo, sesame seed green pepper curry. all beef scotched egg, horse meat tartare and authentic goat bierani. wow. bieani is awesome. >> are you full? >> we did good work here. >> in the end, perhaps as a nod to the angelo tradition, however, there will be stilt. this is a genius meal. these princes of gastronomy never a suboptimal moment.
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nothing short of excellent accepted, beyond excellent. too much excellent. yes, possibly. over the top, yeah. definitely. it all comes around in the end. the circle of life. we begin at the beginning. the heart and soul of every right thinking quebecois apparently. ice, a stick and a puck. fred and dave are joined by the original god of gas tropical stormy to watch their beloved montreal canadiens lay waste to the carolina hurricanes. all the while eating, of course, and drinking, as it turns out the finest wines known to humanity. >> here we go.
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[ cheering ] wounded fugitive david sweat is revealing even more about his prison break. his co-conspirator and their time on the run. >> efforts to dig greece out of deep debt remain chaotic following a day of kriks by the prime minister. and billionaire donald trump losing business over some controversial comments but doing well in the u.s. presidential polls. his candid interview with cnn coming up. heart break for england. a gut-wrenching close to a women's world cup. >> warm welcome to our viewers in the united states and around the world. i'm zain asr.

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