♪ ♪ i need a french coach. ♪ i took a walk through this beautiful world ♪

♪ felt the cool rain on my shoulder ♪ ♪ found something good in this beautiful world ♪ ♪ i felt the rain getting colder ♪ ♪ sha la la la la ♪ sha la la la la la ♪ sha la la la la ♪ sha la la la la la la ♪ . if you've been to france, chances are you haven't been here. france's second largest city, the oldest city in france. it sits right by the mediterranean. the food is famously good. yet, it's a victim of bad reputation, bad history. har say. as it turns out, exactly the

kind of place i like. but this is a buddy picture, isn't it? eric ripert is the chef of the three-star la bernadin in new york. i think that means he's some kind of knight or something. and my friend. this causes him some problems. he, i like to remind him, as a reputation to protect. i do not. >> welcome to marseille. >> you've never been here? >> never. >> how is this even possible? you grew up how far from here? >> like, 15 miles. 100 miles. >> you grew up 100 miles from here. what prevented you from coming to this clearly beautiful city? it's clearly beautiful. >> it's a fantastic city. it's beautiful. i agree with you. it has the reputation of being a dangerous city. >> you live in new york. ♪ >> i should point out that every single frenchmen, when i said

i'm shoot in france, they say, oh really, where? i say marseille. their face drops immediately, like, oh. >> why's that? do they think it's ugly? >> you know what they say? they say this is not france. >> with a "z" like that? >> this is not france. ♪ >> well, i'm looking forward to the week. >> yeah. >> this is low-impact show. >> what is a low-impact show? >> it means i'm not, you know, paddling upriver. it means i get a flush toilet. eating well constantly. >> you like luxury. >> i do. look, i do. i like a fluffy hotel towel. i like a bidet. look, i like warm jets of water squirting up my ass. i mean, who doesn't? ♪ i could retire here. >> i could retire here, too. >> you see, that's sort of the

measure of a place for me is, like, if you start thinking thoughts like that. like, that must be nice. i could live here. just me and my watercolors, you know? when you retire, are you going to putter? >> what's putter? >> dicking around. basically you wake up and maybe you paint a little. >> i could paint. >> okay. do you -- knitting. make a sweater. ♪ >> i would like to go fishing. you know, i never catch anything in my life. >> do you actually fish? do you know how to fish? do you ever fish? >> i don't know to fish. >> i'll show you how. all you need is a car battery and a couple of cables. trust me, you get all the fish you want. >> that's -- >> they come right up. there's other ways. how do you say dynamite in

french? >> dynamite. >> dynamite. see, i do speak french. ♪ you can tell. you know it's coming, right? you can sense it. oh, no. another fishing scene. this is our vessel here on the right. eric is one of only a handful of old-style fishermen who work the sea the old-fashioned way. >> do you see yourself fishing? >> no, it's stressful to any. >> right. i always think aisi'm going to catchmy testicles or ear with the hook. i have a fear of fish hooks. >> catching dente. >> said it's the bestiterraneme. i have no idea what he's talking about. >> hopefully we'll see. >> hopefully we'll deliver it.

supposed to live it to le petit. >> that's right. >> eric works for this man, gerald passedat, the chef/owner of le petit, marseille's only michelin three-star restaurant. >> i'm ready for my fisherman, actually. won't be long. depends on what the mediterranean sea will offer to us. >> so it's a long line, tone. >> i how long is the line? >> he sayshe has about 300 hooks. >> he basically lays it out at night, comes back. >> yeah. >> in marseille, only five guys, five fishermen will rock it like him. >> wow. ♪ ♪

>> you know he has 300 hooks. ♪ ♪ >> this must be the 12th fishing scene. no, i must have done 20 fishing scenes in my life and i think i had one good day out of all of them. other than that, it's been one humiliating goat rodeo after another. ordinarily our typical fishing scene actually would be, it would be rougher than this. we'd be pitching back and forth and i'd be hanging on to the contents of my stomach only by realizing that they feel even sicker because they have to look through the view finder. they're like -- so it's basically you're playing this sort of race against time kind of a game. it's like who's going to puke first. >> yep. >> it's always the camera dudes. >> is it? >> no. generally it's our producer. ♪

♪ [ speaking french ] >> he said bad days, i had some bad days but this one -- >> this is the worst. >> this is the worst. >> well, there it is. another extraordinarily successful fishing scene in the can. time to reap the rewards waiting for us back on dry land. you'll tell me if there's oiled up amazons behind me. >> behind you? >> frolicking naked. >> right now they're mature -- it will happen. >> there's the chef. >> nice too me meet you. >> nice to meet you. an honor, sir.

>> would you like the bouillabaisse? >> it's a very good idea. >> reinvented, deconstructed and then usually there's the thing, itself. passedat's take on bouillabaisse, without a doubt marseille's most famous dish is four courses. first shellfish carpaccio of raw mussels and clams. >> they slice the muscles whole. that's crazy. wow. >> i decided to make this bouillabaisse, fish, when i was a child. my knife opening the mussels, eating the mussels. there's no cream, no better. it's not traditional at all. it's just based on the fish. this is my way of thinking. >> slipper lobster, angler, weaver, light gurnard lightly

seared then a touch in the oven. oh, whoa. this is just incredibly beautiful. >> it's so delicate and at the same time flavorful and powerful. >> this is insanely good. a broth so intense it requires over ten kilos of rock crabs and various bony tasty little fishes to make just one kilo of brown, galo galore rousely brown liquid. steamed over water, saffron potato, then finally comes bat magical brown broth. >> oh. >> wow. >> ahh. >> that's a good one, huh? oh, man. >> this is unbelievable. the entire fish you're eating.

>> just when my brain threatens to short circuit with pleasure, descending as if from heaven, itself, cheese. oh, god, the cheese. i got to tell you, i don't care how about naked breasts are on that beach right now, because that's much more exciting. all right. look at it. it's beautiful. >> tastes good. >> yes. oh, look at that. oh, man. oh, i love. cheese like this. that is just incredible. oh, yes. ♪ >> that is exceptional. >> life is good. >> life is good. in marseille.

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♪ marseille was once the hub, the rough and tumble principle port for france's colony such as tunisia, morocco, and algeria. as a result the sights and smells of africa permeate the city. there's been attempts to dissway me from marseille, you don't want to go there, and yet i come here. correct me if i'm wrong, it is a beautiful city. it smells good. you smell the different pastries. and it's an extraordinary looking city and the people are are really interesting looking. >> i must say, you are in the center of the world because the world is in marseille. we are connected to the mediterranean sea. so it's really different from the north of france.

i feel closer to a guy from oracle than a guy from maybe germany or -- it's different. >> cedric fabre is a marseille crimewriter who spent tech kads writing about crime and corruption, pastis, and sunshine. it's a perfect town for writers, plenty of atmospherics and lurid history. why do you think it's such a fertile ground to set a crime novel? >> for me it's more interesting because you write about the place you live in. i work in the street, i have an idea, et cetera. i couldn't write about things because i have no know the real part of the city, the people. >> here it's a really interesting stew of characters. >> in marseille, there is a very poor area and a very rich area.

the difference between these two areas is the worlds in france so that makes an interesting city because when we write crime novel, we write both the differences between the poor people, the rich people, et cetera, so that's interesting. >> an algerian restaurant with some of the better cous cous in town, and since it's a very filling dish and i only got one crack at it, i go for the royale. what else? vegetables, chickpeas, mergez sausage, chicken, chunks of lamb, and meatballs. what everybody say, everybody sees themselves as marseillaise first and french second regardless of your background. >> we love that city. it's our city. at the same time, we hate a lot of aspects. we have both love and hate. it's part of complex, i think.

marseille has always made bad choices in politics. when france lost the colonies, it was an economic disaster for marseille. i'm thinking about one of your cities in the states, detroit. it was a huge city. it was very important. >> and a beautiful -- >> it happens. >> we abandoned detroit. we abandoned it. it became too black for america to -- >> maybe france is abandoning marseille. sometimes people say, in marseille, people, they are restless. i would say in marseille, people, they are connected with other people. >> let's hope marseille people figure that out because i think it's amazing here. [ bells ] >> if you ask real marseillease these day, what's the iconic

dish? the one thing you most closely associate with home, the answer might surprise you. pizza. marseille, it turns out, is the pizza truck capital of france. so this could be a whole new beginning for you, eric. >> yes. >> i always say you should have a truck. >> yeah. i'll do it with you. >> do you have pizza experience? >> never did a pizza in my life. >> does he know this. >> no, he doesn't know. i'm going to tell him. >> oh. >> okay. let's go. >> our employer for this episode of the real world geriatric edition is jean-denis martinez, his yellow truck a rolling pizza oven is well known in the neighborhood meaning he's busy. we're not going be good at this. this is going to be like "i love lucy." >> more like "laurel and hardy." >> this is like a night mare. i actually have this nightmare, where there's orders coming in, i don't understand what they are because they're in a different language and i'm falling behind.

this is literally my nightmare. >> get ready. >> get in there. >> lucy. put on the sauce. come on. >> don't take my job. >> no, no, no. >> you don't push. >> sloppy, man. >> what? i'm getting there. >> has to be even, the sauce. >> okay. mushrooms and cheese. >> come on, man. customers are backing up here. they want the pizza. >> my pizza is good, okay? >> no, no, no, no. a little bit like that. a little bit like that. like that. good. >> pizza, i soon notice, is different here. toppings are somewhat on the high end. creme fraiche, reblochon cheese,

lardon, figs, chevre. look at this line. >> insane perfection. >> can you translate this for me? i think this man is speaking in profanities to me. how long have you been working on this pizza? michelangelo worked on the sistine chapel for less time. >> there's a line of people waiting, tony. >> turning ugly out there. >> lady wants a pizza. >> he's new. he's new. i can't do anything with him. ♪ >> what happened? >> yeah. this is france. got a nice break. if have i worked my 22-hour week yet? ♪ (vo) making the most out of every mile.

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another beautiful day in paradise and we're heading out to the country side. when embarking on a brotastic adventure, an appropriate vehicle is called for in this case, a 1972 citroen mass ra ma. this is sweet. actually, you need a little more room.

>> lourmarin is a town by marseille, a picture-perfect village known for its farmer's market. >> if i make a green salad, you going to eat it? >> no. >> this one is very ripe. that one, okay. traditional. >> not messing around here. >> we need figs. >> what else is new? >> we need -- >> yeah, yeah, yeah. definitely. and some bread. >> and the bread. >> and wine. >> and the wine. >> a very, very, very expensive wine. >> yeah? >> yeah. we're blowing out the budget, man. [ speaking french ] >> okay. good. need more money. >> so we open two reds? we're going to be smashed.

♪ >> we'll be needing that. okay. that's our cheese selection. which i will be artfully plating. baking, you go from freezing to high heat. i tell you -- >> it's rough. >> it's rough. >> by the time we're halfway through this bot l, you think this is as good as the finest. by the way, we're not suggesting, advising, recommending or any way condoning the driving of a motor vehicle, especially a high powered italian french hybrid while drunk because that would be wrong. >> we're going to take a nap before. >> right, until our blood alcohol level is in alignment with all local regulations and laws. >> i'm going to put salt on the tomatoes. oh, that's going to be gd like

that. >> you know martha stewart pretty well. you've been on her show a lot. >> yeah, yeah. >> give me an honest answer. in a street fight, could martha stewart choke me out? >> i think if she goes to the dark side. >> i think so, too. this is not like my show at all, actually. i'm going to get shit for this, i'm telling you, you're not keeping it real anymore, man. it looks like a wine label. as a buddhist, does this worry you? >> i'm sorry? >> as a buddhist does it worry you considering how well this life turned out for you? >> no, it's good karma from my previous life. >> how long can that karma last. >> until it's dead. ends. >> when do you think that might be? >> any time soon. you never know. >> what would you not want to come back as? what would a worst-case scenario be in the next life? >> how many chances do you have to be born as what you are, what i am? in the entire universe. >> isn't that worrying to you? the next life cannot possibly be better than this. it's probably going to suck.

i mean, best-case scenario, you know, in our next life, maybe if you get to sit in a sub shop in asbury park, new jersey, that will be the greatest day of your life. that will be the best-case scenario. >> but the most -- you end up -- >> you know, a mime. a diseased itinerant mime. >> you're a desperate case. >> enjoyevery minute of this now, eric, and pray, pray, fray this is it, at the end of the they roll you into a hole in the ground. if you're right, if there is a next life, we are [ muted ], my friend. >> to be enlightened, to come back, as many people as you can. all phenomenons of life and what you perceive as reality is ultimately one. let's leave it at that. >> serenity now. cheers. >> cheers.

>> with our bellies full, we're now prepared for the challenge to come. this is danielle of the hilltop team, where our epic battle is to take place. four men enter thunder dome. only two shall leave. >> look at these guys. we're totally getting hustled. >> we're in trouble. >> now they're not joking anymore. >> usa, usa, usa. >> oh, we have one point. >> all right. so our humiliation is not total. it's all we really were looking for. >> the rest we don't care. >> okay. which one is me? >> i don't know. >> oh. >> jinx it. jinx it.

♪ see. told you. wishing evil on others. >> you're totally coming back as a sea cucumber. ♪ >> this is like "deliverance" in reverse. ♪ what is it? 10-10 now? >> 10-10. >> i know, you're so into this. i can't believe it. you're so competitive. >> my jacket. >> oh, yeah, blame your jacket. there you go. >> oh! >> usa. you seem so happy. all right. it's miller time. i've never seen this side of you, man. i don't know what to think. >> i cannot believe it. i'm like, wow.

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and help stop joint damage. enbrel, the number one rheumatologist-prescribed biologic. ♪ they call them lecananc, cutting through the rock and soil of the coast on both sides of the city. they're a distinctively beautiful feature of an already beautiful area. but no matter how beautiful the cliffs and chasms of le calanc i

sure as hel wouldn't want to dive into water of undeterminative depth from any height. no, i would not do that. >> welcome. >> wow. >> it's where you jump. >> yes. >> from here. >> 18 meters. >> it's only 18 meter? >> yes. >> it looks like it's much more. >> lionel franc known to his friends as lulu grew up around le calonc and yes he would do that, he does it almost every day. >> you're very close. you have to push yourself? >> i can't even look at you doing that. oh. >> that's it? you done? >> i'm done. >> don't like heights. oh, geez. i look at him and my calves start turning to jelly. >> look at the fish. >> so after you belly flop and your food squirts out both end of you, the fish will feed on you. >> that's why they're coming.

>> oh, geez. ♪ >> oh, look at that. exactly like -- for breakfast. >> okay. good for me. ♪ ♪ ♪ >> oh. hey. all right.

♪ >> come on, man, you can do that. >> i don't know. >> impressive. >> yeah, very impressive. does he get paid for that? >> i don't know. look, as long as he's not a mime, i'm okay with it. >> he's definitely not a mime. >> even the smell of mime makeup i start to tremble with fear. >> so it's a phobia. >> it's a serious phobia. don't like it. mimes, clowns, nurses shoes. those white nurses shoes. >> oh, the clogs. >> no. they're, like, super comfortable, like, and they're white. >> yeah. >> but not, like, super white because they've been, you know, walking through various bodily fluidses and there's a little speck of, like, blood or urine on it. it's true terror. >> wow. [ speaking french ] >> no panic. >> you keep like this.

♪ >> missed it by that much. ♪ >> too many men on this show. it's a freakin' brofest. like most places, the overwhelming majority of chefs in marseille are men. however, each month, georgiana viou hosts a dinner for her female colleagues, chefs all. >> everybody here a chef in the business? >> yep. >> how many more are there like you? >> maybe three or four in marseille. >> france, kind of -- and if you want to find your place, it's very difficult when you are a girl. really. >> actually, like, in mediterranean, the example for cooking, the basic -- >> yes. >> if you don't have good food,

you don't go to restaurants in marseille that much. you know your grandmother or mother will cook much better. >> georgiana is from benin, via nigeria and london, but beyond all else, she's marseillaise. beef tartare with botargo, apple and celeriac. counterintuitive one may think but truly delicious. >> i used to cook with butter and cream and whatever, and today i can't imagine my cuisine without olive oil, without vegetables, without seafood, without spices. and on the top you're going to put some salt of the tartare. >> it's a good idea. it's better than putting anchovies. >> you want, you can do it on tartare. >> i'm going to do it. i'll send you the picture. >> sure. >> seriously. i'm going to do it. >> oh, cool.

>> and my single favorite marseillaise classic, a dish which encapsulates everything i love and believe in about food. first the hair on the sheep's foot is burned off. the meat is then tenderized and cut into pieces. sheep's tripe is clean and cut into squares. each piece is stuffed with onions, parsley, garlic and salt pork before being rolled and wrapped into small pouches. these are stewed for several hours in a sauce of white wine, tomato tomatoes, bacon, onion, and carrots along with the sheep's foot. >> i love this dish. >> i love this fish, too. >> this is everything i believe in in food. this is just absolutely the top. >> make it good, you have to put your soul into it. >> yes. >> if you don't have it, you don't -- >> i like it here. he's already thinking about retiring here. >> in marseille?

sure. >> you said you could retire here. >> i said i could retire here. yeah. yeah, why not? >> no, no, i'm happy to hear that. >> it's not an easy city. it's not museums, you know, everything is kind of dirty and complicated. but when you are in marseille and just you have the fantastic life and the sea and you can have the best fishes. yes, you are home. i mean, just like being home.

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marseille is not france in the best possible way. algeri algerians, moroccans, italians have enriched marseille with flavors and colors all their own. but there's another major influence. the corsican mafia, who to be fire along with our sicilian colleagues did kind of run things around here for much of the last century. those days are mostly over. and the corsican presence has dwindled to a few thousand which

is a shame because corsica produces some of the most wonderful cheese anywhere. >> pancetta and the -- >> awesome. we want everything. a cured meat and cheese shop run by marie paul and family still going after 70 years. famously, nor tor rousely, however you want to put it, this was a corsican town. when i would go as a kid, my aunt, probably a typical xenophobic french woman of her generation said all the corsicans, they're all gangsters or policemen. oh, today just got better. very flavorful. >> oh, this one is unbelievable. the flavor of that is unbelievable. >> they're not dicking around. i love this. it's making me happy.

want some? here, have a piece. >> you want some. this one is special. >> all right. let's move on. some cheese. ♪ ah, look at that. that's beautiful. >> this one is strong. >> wow. that is some -- >> looks very -- >> that is some deep funk. that is some -- wow. see, when i eat cheese like this and i edrink wine like this, i think of my fantasies. maybe you saw "godfather ii." i could spend the rest of my life sitting on a hill in corsica eating goat cheese, drinking wine and having my enemies killed by remote control. >> i would love to live that lifestyle except, killing enemies, as you know, i'm not killing anyone. >> i've never seen you wish ill on anyone. as long as i've known you.

you've never even said that rat bastard, i hope something really bad happens, i hope he gets stomach cancer. or, you've never even said i hope he loses his girlfriend. you've never wished ill on anyone. >> i don't. >> so let me ask, in your darkest heart of hearts, do you ever stray, do you ever find yourself thinking, oh, i really hope they just, i don't know, i hope they get herpes? i wish ill on people every day. >> you know, i mean -- ♪ >> it's a big night in marseille. the city's football team, that's soccer team to you, is playing which means the whole city's watching. eric and i head to the hipster neighborhood to meet up with gilles rof, a sportswriter for france's top newspaper "le

monde." today, the big game, it's marseille -- >> it's leo against marseille. it's not here. >> we'll get to watch it on tv. will all of marseille be watching this? >> yeah. >> everybody's going to be watching. >> you know, we did a very good season. at the end of the season, we are only fourth. >> so it's a must win. >> it's very important. so it's a must win today. >> right. ♪ >> so the dream of every marseillaisean, the perfect season would be to see marseille crush paris, move on and go all the way. >> they don't want to be second first. they want to be second to none. it's one of the only issues where they can be first. ♪

>> that's why people here love so much their soccer team because it's the place where you can show your identity. if you go all around the streets and you ask people, where are you from? they'll tell you, i'm from nigeria, i'm from morocco. if you ask them, what is your favorite team they will say marseille. because they are a part of the city. they are from this city and the football team is the flag of this city. when you booked this trip,

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about 75 years ago the properties around calanques were mostly farmland then small shacks. the working class families from the city used as weekend

getaways. no running water or indoor plumbing. simple. a place to get together, have a long winey lunch. >> hello. >> you can't build new ones and the ones that are here like this one owned by dominique and natalie have been in the same family since the '40s. and they ain't going anywhere. is this area protected? meaning if i wanted to open a giant modern hotel across there, it's impossible, right? >> actually, a couple of years ago it was kind of scaled up on the protection level, so nothing's going to happen. >> and most of these properties are owned by the same family for many years? that's nice. >> lunch is being prepared by

de-de. penisse, crispy fried fritters of chickpea that go well with aioli, and one of my fafrlts, sea snails in garlic, wild fennell, and orange peel. >> that's the taste of this region for me. it's garlic. >> yep. >> olive oil. >> yep. >> saffron. >> exactly. >> and look at this. look at this. sardine. lightly marinated in lemon and olive oil. you can pretty much rub that all over me. i don't care. >> so good. so fresh. >> perfect. oily little fish in a garden. so we discussed the characteristics of the true marseillase. is marseille france? >> no.

>> loyal to new york before america. >> that's true. >> so what about the people? what do all true, true marseillaise have in common? >> they have the reputation of exaggerating. so if you eat sardines like this, we learn sardines like this. >> octopus stew slow cooked in wine and typical elements of cooking like dry orange peel, garlic, and tomato. spoon over pasta and enjoy. oh, yes. i can smell that octo stock. fantastic. so when are you retiring? at what age? >> as soon as possible. seriously. right? >> you want to tom back?

>> yeah, i don't want to leave. when you see that, that lifestyle, and people come from all over europe by highway high they spend hours in their car to be here. my grandparents and my uncles used to have that lifestyle. exactly like that. >> right. >> and i forgot about it. now i'm remembering. >> a chain of cynical surf and turf restaurants, we can cash out in two years. >> if it is to be here, yeah, i'll do it. >> you heard it here first. ♪ ♪

i'm mike rowe. and i'm on a mission to find people on a mission. what? what are they doing? how are they doing it? and why? >> very exciting. >> come on, man, we got to get it. >> it's gotta be done. >> on this episode -- >> oh my goodness. >> blowing stuff up. for fun. and profit. >> pretty stuff. >> but mostly fun. i've always wanted to do this then -- >> open the