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something dave choe and roy choi have in common is that they may be korean american, but they are also very much creatures of l.a. and what is l.a.? l.a. is mexican, central

american, filipino, vietnamese, thai, samoan, bangladeshi. everybody has left their mark, continues to shape the town, determine its character. k-town exists upside its latino neighbors and i guess it's natural that both choe and choi identity very much with mexican street culture. few things embody that particularly southern california latino street culture more than low riding. ♪ esteban is a photographer, chronicler of everything iconic at the crossroads of hip-hop, design, tattooing, fashion and low-riding. >> the old-timers, they used to cut the coils or put sandbags in their truck to make them lower. then around the '70s is when

they got popular. >> why these particular models of cars? >> it's pretty much always been late '50s all the way through the '60s and the '70s. then the '80s came, they started bringing in the cadillacs and the regals. the most classic well-known car for low riding is probably the '64 impala. >> how many korean low riders are there? >> there's a few asian ones sprinkled in. >> more asians? more koreans than 15 years ago? we're seeing a crossover with the food. >> right. for the most part, things are starting to get a lot more open. if you're asking i think there will be a lot more hispanic and asian mixed babies coming up in the future. >> i ain't mad at that. >> ideal low-riding is about getting appreciated by the people who best appreciate the traditions and techniques, the getting it right. for that, you head to east l.a.

>> the most famous notorious street in l.a. is witier boulevard, because of the history of it. and then crenshaw boulevard in south central. >> so, that's going to be your most critical audience, and at the same time, the most appreciative. >> yeah, the ones you want to see your car, you know? >> it's a slow-moving piece of art. you treat the car like a piece of art, acutely aware of the dangers -- cops, for whom you are a target, potholes, other cars. in east l.a. you see people ooh and ah, you see people change the expression from what is that, to nice ride. >> hopefully gang members gives us props, giving us respect, you know? first you build a car for yourself, but at the same time, you're building it for the streets, you're building it for the people. you want them to appreciate it. ♪

>> within the borders of koreatown, it's not just koreans. there are new arrivals every day. there is, in fact, an official little bangladesh right in the middle of k-town. >> so good in here. >> yeah, this is going to work. so, you're not short of options around here. >> no, you can get tacos across the street. korean next door and goat stew. you can pray to muhammad or buddha. >> the tiny mosque next door where services are held five times a day. i was talking to a guy in the parking lot who said this is the first little bangladesh in america. >> yeah, and it just happened like two years ago. it was like we went to sleep and woke up and it was little bangladesh. >> here at salada, step right in for some curried goat, samosas,

tandoori chicken, and fish curry with no small amount of chilies. >> just such aromatic, delicious food. what good food are you likely to find within the confines of koreatown? >> el salvadorian, guatemalans, koreans all throughout. pakistani, bangladesh food. oaxaca takes over all of eighth street. >> why oaxaca, is that just the way it worked out? >> yeah, you know how it goes. one guy showed up. filipino fast food just behind us, and a bunch of riffraff in between. >> filipinos are proud of their food. underrepresented. >> i think they're going through what we went through, where the glass hasn't been broken yet, to translate it, but keep the core and soul of it, but it tastes delicious. >> a few blocks over, the iconic filipino fast food chain jollibee. laugh all you want but ask any

filipino, they love the drive-through for this speciality spam thing, but it's the desserts where it gets really crazy. decisions, decisions. >> here we go. we'll take one aloha burger, and one spam little big bite. let's do a halo-halo. that's it. >> oh, look at that. what is that? >> that's halo-halo. >> oh, yeah. halo-halo. dig deep and you hit delicious stratas of red beans, white beans and chickpeas, cubes of red and green jell-o, coconut, shaved ice, and is that flan? it makes no goddamned sense at all. i love it. >> a part of every filipino's life, halo-halo. >> i have to take a picture of that. it's oddly beautiful. all right, you know i'm getting a bite of that little -- what is that? >> it's a little big bite. >> little big bite. >> favorite little thing in the world. >> no, don't say that.

it's actually -- i like that. >> it's good, right? >> aloha. it just sounds magical. is there like pineapple in there? >> yes. >> hence the aloha. that's a very tasty burger. nice char. >> it's fast food, but it's made like just a single family-owned restaurant. >> what family made this? >> maybe not your family. >> the jetsons. >> you like it? >> it's actually very tasty. >> every single thing you like it. >> wow. there's so much i don't know. ♪ of keeping everyone working together can quickly become the only thing you think about. that's where at&t can help.

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[ speaking foreign language ] that's true, dad. we all look the same. [ laughter ] >> i love it. >> he may be a korean gone bad, but dave choe still tries best he can to be a good son. he bought them this house in los feliz and visits for family meals often. in fact, when we first met, sensing it had been a long time without a true home-cooked meal, he invited me to dinner with them. so, guests are not unusual.

jane choe is an amazing cook. >> it's going to be very delicious. >> mom, dad, look who's here. >> hello. how are you? >> can you smell something? >> oh, yeah. good stuff. >> yeah, all the good stuff coming. maybe somebody going to hire me later. [ laughter ] >> okay. which ones are you? are you the oldest? >> i'm the middle. i'm the suicidal pirate. >> oh, already signs of trouble here. >> my older brother is the hip-hop santa. he was the oldest. he beat me up. i beat him up. and then he would just cry. i'll show you my dad's painting. hey, dad. >> yeah. >> hey, come over here for a second. when you paint this dad? 30 years ago? >> 1973. >> every christmas he unrolls it and just scotch-tapes it to the wall. my mom's the artist in the family now. >> so this is a family of artists?

the choes are devout christians, not unusual in the korean community, but they are unusual in that they're both artists of a sort. jane treats the house like an ongoing art project, drawing sunglasses on family pictures, stapling angels to dave's paintings that have hung in the white house, getting crazy with the glue gun, adorning wreathes with happy meal toys, sticker-bombing the kitchen with birds, cows, spaceships piloted by her three boys. she is relentlessly, energetically and inarguably creative. >> she brainwashed me from the time we were kids. she was like you're the best artist in the world, you're the best artist in the world. >> you are! >> oh, thanks. but now she's telling me she's going to be the best artist in the world, so, she's very competitive. she says she's going to destroy me. >> awesome. [ laughter ] >> food is ready. >> so, do you want to explain what everything is, mom? >> the food i prepared tonight

is very common korean food. this is beef rib stew. >> that kimchi's looking fresh. >> yes, kimchi's fresh. >> today is chestnut rice. >> no one has this kind of rice. >> special rice. >> special rice for tony. >> and then stuffed peppers. >> oh, that's david's favorite. >> cheong po mook, seaweed and jelly mung beans, noodles with shiitake mushrooms, avocado egg rolls, fried squid and shrimp, potato pancake. often at the choe house, there's a few mexican dishes sprinkled in as well. it is always a great meal. i can tell you that. >> thanks, mom. this is delicious. >> this is awesome. >> thank you. >> i love it. >> during the riots of '92, jim and jane choe worked as real estate agents and property managers, so the destruction in koreatown had a direct impact on their lives.

the choes watched from home as the chaos unfolded on tv. after the riots, jim wrote a letter to the editor that was published in the "l.a. times." >> i'm extremely angry with the lapd for their outrageous action. while the cops to let the looters run wild and rape our city, they somehow had time to bother korean shop owners guarding their stores. how can an owner of a business just sit back and watch his life be burned to the ground? >> david would have a very different reaction. >> my brother stole a car, and we went into, like, all of the neighborhoods, and then quickly realized it wasn't, like, about race, it was just about people stealing stuff, but we were out looting, we were causing chaos, and you know, i don't think we got anything good. i think i got a tv stand.

>> was it life-changing for you? >> it's like you grow up and things are explained. here's the police, they're not doing anything they're supposed to do, just normal men and women of society acting like animals, and i was like, oh, everything i've been taught and learned my whole life is just disintegrating before my eyes. but in the end, we're, you know, from great disasters come great things, right? koreatown burned down. it's like we own l.a. now. it's half the l.a. >> now korean culture, grow up in size, all the over the world influence, you know? >> filmmakers, all the top korean filmmakers. >> oh, yeah. >> what about me? >> yeah. >> artists, right? >> except you. >> sorry, david. [ laughter ] >> today i went into all the different ways you guys used to beat us when we were kids, the

stress positions, you know? all the korean punishments. >> what's remarkable to me, every kid, i mean, all korean kids. >> yeah, all korean kids. >> the same position. you either hold a book -- >> oh, yeah, that's the way we learned, from generation to generation. we don't know why. >> to take a peek into the dark heart of the korean psyche, maybe it helps to get familiar with han. it's a concept that for non-koreans can be difficult to fully grasp. >> all right. you want it? here we go. han denotes a collective feeling of oppression and isolation in the face of overwhelming odds. it connotes aspects of lament and injustice. in some occasions, anthropologists have recognized han as a medical condition. someone who dies of han is said to have died of hapyon -- [ speaking foreign language ] >> it's heartburn. >> while it's been described in a way that sounded benign, this

is a burning sense of injustice, besiegement and desire for revenge. >> the han is the reason why, like, we are who we are, but it's also the same reason why i won't marry a korean woman. >> you never know. >> no, i know, mom. >> he's cute. ♪

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main drag of k-town. another mini mall among many. karaoke, no. >> this is the best dumpling spot in town. my mom would just order all these dumplings and leave them on my door, because she's not allowed in my house. and then, i just said, where are you getting these? you know, my mom likes to withhold information, so i finally got it out of her. >> myung in dumplings, where they serve a mix between korean and chinese. each plate handmade to order, my friends. opened in 2007 on olympic boulevard, it's run by yu jin, a korean by way of shenyang province in china. >> been coming here for about two years now. there's no one ever in here. every time i've ever come in. i don't understand how they're open. they're the best dumplings i ever had. maybe just people get them to go? >> right. >> they all look like butt

holes, actually. >> kind of, yeah, pre-prolapse. >> wan man dut, king dumplings, thick dough, stuffed to the gills with pork, kimchi, vegetables, precisely made, weighed and crimped. steamed until soft. eat. wow. that's nearly the size of your head. >> yeah, you know, it's like pizza. i'll eat them cold, too. >> right. >> save two and then have them for dinner. >> and mandu, smaller with thinner dumpling skins, served with red chili paste. >> wait for the dessert one. >> wow. boy, these are delicious. these are just, like, so huge. >> go for it. >> mm-mmm. so, would this be classically post-drinking food or pre-drinking food?

laid out a base of absorptive material? >> there's a lot of bread here. i don't really drink, just falling under peer pressure right now. be one of the cool guys. >> i like this place already. good signage. it's important. >> yeah, the sign's awesome. >> if that sign does not sing to you, then we cannot be friends. >> hi. >> how are you? >> this is my uncle tony. >> how are you doing? >> this is terry kim, aka guam cruise. here's more koreans right here. >> some friends of choe's seem to favor this place. they are a thirsty and diverse bunch. >> i'm asking everybody, stress position as a child? did you have to do the -- >> oh, he knows it. >> he went right into it. >> stress positions? >> you did that? >> see, the speed with which they assume the position. >> you had to hold a bucket over your head of water. >> water, oh. what if your arms get tired? >> they make you do it again.

>> the whole thing is doing it again. >> look, i'm not korean, i'm not asian. i'm a white boy from the suburb. but i noticed something over time in my k-town adventure. similar anecdotes, you might say. >> they've done this quite a bit. so they came up with a new one. >> i was very aware that all my korean friends, no matter how creative or successful seemed strangely haunted by something. but i never knew this. how do you do it? >> oh, it goes up like this and then -- it's like opening an umbrella in someone. >> college. >> you think it's hilarious -- adults do that to each other. >> what the hell that's about, i can only guess. >> cheers. >> koreans gone bad. you're korean now officially.

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pretty much any korean you

meet anywhere, you can take it for granted they like food, that they are passionate about food, particularly their food, which of all the immigrant cuisines has probably been messed with the least. unlike many other new arrivals, koreans seem to have been the most unwilling to accommodate western tastes. maybe that's why it took us so much time to love this stuff. beverly tofu house, like so much of k-town's finer establishments, is tucked away in the corner of a strip mall. >> this is one of my favorite spots, where i've been coming for almost 20 years. this is a soup that's just like it's kind of korean but really more l.a. >> so, this is not a direct transplant from korea? >> it became what we're about to have here in l.a. >> interesting. >> they're different because of the ingredients we couldn't find but never thinking about pleasing the american palate, just to make ourselves happy. >> sundabu is the thing to get, a fiery, tongue-searing, ass-burning tofu soup that will make you forget every bad thing you ever thought about tofu. a spicy, spicy red broth of tofu as the base. soft tofu with a texture like

borrata and from there a handful of variations but the most common is with kimchi with everything, beef, oysters, mussels and clams. oh, and tableside, they crack an egg in there. wow. right in there. cool. that looks completely awesome. well, we better wait for this to cool, i'm guessing. so, how do we eat this, spoon it over rice? >> yeah, spoon it over rice. just mix it in. >> mm-mmm, that's good. >> yeah. >> all tofu should be spicy, by my way of thinking. so good. >> yeah. really. >> koreans can well remember when nobody was interested in their food. now it's confusingly au courant. must be strange for the owners who have just been doing what they've been doing for years. >> like, for example, like for us sitting here like this, the questions a lot of people are asking me in korean, like, i'm telling them we're filming, you know, we're trying to show a piece of koreatown. the number one question is --

they're not mad or vindictive. the question is why? it's still why? like why -- >> why would we be interested? >> why would you waste your time? there are so many other things to do. >> it's an extraordinarily delicious and beautiful thing. >> that's the thing. the beauty is already a given, already a part of fabric, so it's like why congratulate you, you know? there's no reason to congratulate you because this is like what we do. >> that sounds awful, honestly. that is totally joyless. >> yeah. >> what did your parents want you to be when you grew up? >> for me, a doctor, a lawyer. >> right. obviously, you're not a doctor or lawyer. did you finish college? >> i finished college and went to one year of law school and walked out. >> so you're a bad korean. >> i was a bad korean. if i was a mediocre accountant, it would be better than being a top chef. >> according to who? >> according to korean culture, according to korean uncles and aunts. it doesn't register that that is a profession. you know, i wouldn't have to

explain myself if i just said i was a cpa. >> right. >> never. you know that. >> you've still got some "splainin" to do. >> just get it across that i cook, and that there was this phenomenon that happened on the streets of l.a. that changed and opened up korean culture to the world. >> what does it mean to be korean-american? does one create one's own world? i don't know that i'm any smarter about that now than when i first came to k-town in the middle of the night to discovered a strange and fabulous and delicious slice of america i had never known was there, but i'm trying to figure it out

miami sneaks up on you. or do we change and find ourselves sneaking up, washing up, ending up in miami? ♪ i took a walk through this beautiful world ♪ ♪ felt the cool rain on my shoulder ♪ ♪ found something good in this beautiful world ♪ ♪ i felt the rain getting colder ♪ ♪ sha, la, la, la, la, la, ♪ sha, la, la, la, la, la, ♪ sha, la, la, la, la, la,

♪ sha, la, la, la, la, miami, it's a big place. biggnd more multifaceted than it's given credit for. >> miami, where you at? >> we tend over the years to focus on miami's -- how shall i put this -- party zone. ♪ ♪ it's the kind of place we say

that could never be me and then it is. it's a temptation that's almost irresistible. the seductions of flash, of palm trees, balmy nights, deco architecture, television shows made real, but across the causeway a few miles down the way there are other worlds, older ones. i think it's safe to say better ones.

♪ ♪ ♪ way out west 20 miles from the airport tucked in yet another strip mall is this place and you go there because, well, you need coffee and because cuba, respect, and because michelle bernstein is there. >> is this miami? it was a long time getting here. >> you need a car in miami, and yes, this is like the heart of miami. >> michelle is one of my miami's most iconic influential chefs, born and bred her. >> when people say where did you grow up, you say -- >> miami. this is way out west.

i mean you can't get much further west than this. >> what's beyond here? >> swampland. not much. >> body disposal. >> you can say that. i can't. this restaurant, we would actually come here for the seafood and it would be elegant. >> well, you have the waiters in the little bolero-type jacket things. >> or a bow tie and there's still some places in miami that still have that. >> this is how you drink coffee in miami. >> what do they call this? >> it's a big cup with little cups. >> it is basically like the coffee version, the caffeine version of a one-hitter. i'd have one of those. at the next place, i'd have another. i basically get increasingly jangley as i head towards work. >> i grew up on the colada. we all give our babies coffee. they put their finger in it to taste it and they all grow up loving coffee. >> that's good. so this is a nonjudgmental land, miami. >> it is.

you can pretty much get away with almost anything. >> it's good coffee. >> i'm so glad you like it. a lot of people don't like it. >> really? >> well, because they think it is too sweet. >> many of you who are watching are dimly aware of this sandwich, cubano. you're thinking, yes, a cubano sandwich, but you'd be wrong. this is not a cubano sandwich. close, a cousin. ham, swiss cheese, pickles, a little mustard and like a cubano, it is pressed until it is hot and runny inside. >> you see how juicy that is? that's the telling of the cuban sandwich. >> you know what pisses me off? people try to improve on this. >> a lot of people try to

improve upon it. you can't fancify it. how is it? is it yummy? >> it's good. a lot of thought is given to the structure of the sandwich. >> it is all about the layers. >> yeah. this is the perfect breakfast, right? >> it's good, yeah. i always go for the salty. never the sweet. >> i don't care about sweet things. if i have to give up one course of the meal, dessert. >> of course. >> cheese over dessert any day. >> oh, yeah. i'd rather have steak over dessert, but maybe that's because my mother is from argentina. ♪ ♪

♪ >> this is my world away from the world. to me, it's my little king's domain. >> there's one place i keep coming back to. it's a place where if you look deep enough, ask the right questions, you can get a whole history of miami from one man. this man, matt klein. >> you're going to have to remember you're speaking to 100-year-old man. >> i know. you look good. >> raise your voice a little bit. >> you look good. if i look that good when i'm 60, i'll be happy. >> you know what the amazing thing about being 100 is? a year ago i was 99.

nobody paid attention to me. didn't care. i became 100, my god. >> matt klein, the owner, proprietor, at max club deuce turned 100 years old this year. yes, 100. he's still here. the cigarette smoke and dark dank atmosphere pretty good for a guy that's seen it all. >> that's 73 years ago. fort bening, georgia. i was in the second army division. >> matt klein came from new york's lower east side by way of the battle of normandy. >> i came here because i was wounded and the warm weather was much better for me. >> but there was a lot of g.i.s during the war here, right? >> they saw a world that they didn't believe. >> during world war ii, miami saw a massive influx of military

personnel. hotels, which had seen a sharp drop in business, made a deal with the government to house troops at the empty resorts. >> they told their parents about it. their parents came down, son came down, they opened their businesses here, and they were basically jewish at the time and that's how it started. >> by the fall of 1942, more than 78,000 troops were living in 300 hotels in miami and miami beach. >> how long have you been running the deuce? >> i took over in 1964. half of my life i've spent here. miami beach has turned over at least six times since i've been here. all i need is "miami vice." they put it in there. this was their favorite bar. >> it makes sense too. >> still, it was very flattering. the same as how flattering it is to have you here. >> i love this place. i mean, i love it. it's my favorite bar in miami. to many more.

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the dreamers, the visionaries, crooks, and con men who built miami envision many different kinds of paradise. a new jerusalem in the seemingly infinitely expanding real estate, just fill in where there's water and you've got property. or as in coral gables, a new venice. complete with grand canals. gondolas to ferry their new seekers to their palazzos in the sun. the dream was as expandable as

the space. where there was water, there was now magically terra sort a firma. and in the 80s where there was decline, a vacuum, suddenly there was a new and vibrant economy, one that raised all boats, filled miami with new buildings, shiny cars, swanky nightclubs, and a new reputation for murder and criminality to go with it. cocaine. say what you will, cocaine altered the skyline of miami forever. it made, for better or worse, miami sexy again. >> going back to the very beginning, was miami always a criminal enterprise? but i mean that in a good way. outlaw culturism a very deep

part of american culture. >> in florida, we don't produce or manufacture anything but oranges and handguns. there is no indigenous industry. we sell sunshine. the only jobs we have are in hospitality or in restaurants. >> real estate. >> real estate. it is all to sell the dream to the next people. >> in 1981 the fbi called miami the most violent city in america. the drug industry brought in an estimated $7 to $12 billion a year and that's of 1981 money. that is a lot of trickle down. one of the most successful documentaries in the history of film is "cocaine cowboys" that tells that story. the film made by these guys, alfred spellman and billy corbin. >> so things were in decline. cocaine sort of saved the city? >> we'd say so. am i going to get in trouble for

it? >> yes. >> you had a murder rate. 25% of those bodies had automatic weapons bullets. >> right. >> we talk about the uncomfortable reality of where a lot of modern miami came from over something you just have to hit hard in miami when in season. stone crabs. >> federal reserve branch in miami had a $5 billion cash surplus. mostly 50s and 100 dollar bills all of which had trace elements of cocaine on them. >> and the guys who were in cocaine trafficking in the 70s and 80s got out and are now big medicare fraudsters. >> we're whispering because they're probably here. >> so where's the money now? how's business in general in miami and where is that business

coming from? >> remarkably the rebound from the great recession, the people thought it would take almost a decade for all the condo inventory to get absorbed and it seemed to happen almost overnight. we're in the middle of another huge boom. who is buying? wealthy foreigners. a lot of flight capital from overseas in latin america, south america. russians. >> if it is money looted from another country, do we care? >> the question is how long will it last? >> there's history and there's the more immediate needs of the present. i need food presently and perhaps some fine bourbon and when i need good food in a city

not my own, more and more these days i call somebody if they weren't good at enough things already, has become something of an expert on good food around the world. >> every time i check instagram you're eating with one of my culinary heros. he seems to like you a lot better than me. ahmir-khalib thompson, known to most as questlove. >> you've been to this place before? >> i live at this place. >> really? >> yeah. >> yard bird quickly became a miami favorite. >> the old joke was james brown was the hardest working man in show business. you make him look lazy. let's review, okay? band leader, producer, a teacher -- >> yep. >> a d.j. >> technically, i have 16 jobs right now. >> deviled eggs with fresh dill and trout roll will be so over next year, but right now i want like ten more.

delicious. fried green tomatoes with pork belly. this is the perfect thing for a guy looking to squeeze into a size 28 speedo tomorrow and hit the beach. >> how often are you in miami? >> three to five times a year. >> what makes the miami sound different from the detroit sound, the philadelphia sound, the new york sound, whatever? >> you can't say something specific like philadelphia had strings in their arrangement whereas stats records had organ in theirs. >> what's called 77 elvis pancakes? chocolate chip pancakes, bourbon maple syrup, banana compote, and peanut butter. >> yard bird's signature fried chicken comes with chilled

spiced watermelon and cheddar cheese waffles. they brine the chicken 17 hours to be exact. tender inside and perfectly crispy on the outside. >> to me, i like waffles and i like chicken, but i don't understand waffles and chicken together. >> you still don't understand? >> i understand people deeply love them and i do like waffles and i do love fried chicken. put them on separate plates and i'm okay. >> you don't want your food integrated? >> shrimp and grits, a southern classic made with florida shrimp, virginia ham, and south carolina stone ground grits. >> i was reading your book. is it curtis mayfield you have bad associations with? >> whenever i hear curtis mayfield, just as a kid, that particular structure always frightened. >> even now?

>> even now. i'm angry that that band ever existed. i hate that old englishy, old, bar minstrely, stand on one leg mother [ muted ] hate that shit. you never know when you play music were they molested by a rodeo clown to that song and jethro tull, he's my version of that. with rapid pick-up then eat it, however you like. panera. food as it should be. where our next arrival is... red carpet whoa! toenail fungus!? fight it! with jublia. jublia is a prescription medicine used to treat toenail fungus. use jublia as instructed by your doctor. are you getting this?!

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