i will never be young again. or any younger than i am today. i will never be faster or more flexible. i will never win competitions against 22-year-old wrestlers in my weight class. i will never be a black belt. none of those things will happen, but none of that matters anymore.

♪ ♪ felt the cool rain on my shoulder ♪ ♪ i felt the rain on my shoulder lala sha la-la-la sha la-la-la ♪ >> san francisco is changing. we all know it.

you can't stop it. were you born here? >> yeah. both my grandparents from san francisco. my dad's side came out for the gold rush, in the 1850s. >> author john grew up in this town and a close observer. >> when i came here i was making the same tired jokes everyone from new york to san francisco makes. the granola and the bread. >> yeah. >> in fact, nothing can be further from the truth. san francisco is an outrageously dirty town. it's grimy. you guys have actual street h k hookers in this center of town. it's a two-fisted hand me dri drinking big martini big state heavy smoking old school '20s mentality still.

>> yes. google is not too far from here. >> according to many locals, the whole character of the city is being leached out by an invasion of tech people, the flood of tech money. it's the triumph of the nerds, out with the old, in with the new. >> no place epitomizes that better than where we are now. >> i tell any to come and meet me here, they sort of laugh at me. it's this thing that doesn't really exist in san francisco anymore. not self-consciously diving, has this faded worn out, smells kind of sour. >> sinbads, lost in time yet its time running out, living out its last stand on san francisco's pier 2, just south of the neck beards and man vay bohr pores buying coffee a few yard is a way. >> my mom used to come here and

was a secretary. there was a place that catered to unglamorous office workers. those are rarer and rarer. >> is the relentless wheel of history going to roll over this place. >> it will eventually roll over this place. the location is too good. one of the best views in san francisco. >> a last drink or two before the grinding wheels of the apocalypse turn through, leaving what in their wake? >> they want to put a ferry terminal here, is that right? >> yeah. they want to build a fancy ferry term shaterminal. young people coming here in the tech industry are insulated from the culture of san francisco. and people came to san francisco in their 20s to do a very specific thing. san francisco is a place you can have an acid trip and see the kind of thing you saw about yourself is kind of bull -- even

though culture is changing and horrifyingly expensive- - >> right. >> there is still something like that that exists in san francisco. you will always have that. san francisco will always make an impression on you. >> san francisco was built on tou toughness. it's a boozy town, a saloon town. red meat, sex and dirt. >> every morning, every morning, 7:00 a.m., i'm here. for the next hour or two hours or sometimes more, i'm just getting crushed. jujitsu in spades. >> in 1980, a master prizefig

prizefighter immigrated to brazil and befriended a man and ended up teaching his sons and brazilian jiu-jitsu and the usc all goes back to the gracies. my homed a academy is renzo gracin manhattan. the reason i'm here is to train here, help gracie academy, one of the toughest and notorious and most admired. to a great extent because of the relationship between the terr y terrifying -- >> he looks at you like he's got a problem. his eyes are menacing. >> and this man, beloved in the jiu-jitsu community because of his remarkably unvarnished movie of the week videos. >> he gets stuck and he gave the guy an underhook.

a long time ago, it's so bad now you have to work really hard. head up! get self-control over the other guy. >> when you see an mma fight, when they strike, it's usually boxing for may tie or karate. when they flip their opponent in wrestling, but when it hits the ground you better know brazilian jiu-jitsu. object to lock your opponent in such a way to make them submit. i do not want this getting my guard broken. that's bad. it sucks. there's full mount. armbar. ezekiel choke. rear naked choke. bow and arrow. then, as they say, my choices become very limited. it's tap, snap, or natural.

>> start to rotate towards and extend your arm. don't lift him up. put your head this way, extend this arm. yes, pass it. hands a little bit tight. you can always adjust it. >> in case you haven't noticed, i'm an old school guy. i'm sentimental about some things, nautical themed restaurants, puppies. and places like this. i'm fully aware of the fact -- i can hear it already -- every show you've ever done in san francisco, you come here. >> yes. that's correct. true love cannot be denied. i need a counter with some

familiar faces on the other side. what am i having? i'm having the crab, of course. >> i need a cold draft beer. >> i deserve this beer. i'm like a real housewife of new york city, i only eat healthy and low carbs. >> look at the size of that one! here it is, a crab back! >> dude. i guess somebody throws this away, tear the legs off and eat them and throw this out, stupid people, all that good stuff, the fat and magic, it's like unicorn juice. swan oyster depot, a touchstone in my worldwide wanderings, a happy zone. if i read about myself dying at this counter i say to myself, that was one lucky guy.

>> nice plate of crab legs, maybe a little louie on the side? >> i guess. so good. tony, here you go, babe. i have local ones. >> it's for trainings. gives me super human strength. on the other hand, oysters all over the front of me might not be cool. when you booked this trip, you didn't know we had over 11,000 local activities listed on our app. or that you could book them right from your phone. a few weeks ago, you still didn't know if you were gonna go.

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the bay area is changing forever. will san francisco's new overlords find place in their hearts for this? trader vick's.

one of the last of its kind. started in oakland, a wave of tiki themed polynesian fancy restaurants and bar clubs for a time spread across america. >> i definitely need the menu. i've been eating like a chicken fried steak. >> you were doing some sort of martial art, too. >> the my tie wave? >> what's the may tie wave? >> a flight of maitas. >> not many do this. very few do it without irony. >> this is not the first time you have been here? >> no. i practically grew up in this place. >> really? >> my parents used to take me from like age 3. >> author, shawn, group in san francisco and his parents were regul regulars. i used to drop acid and go to hawaii kai, so this kind of thing is a taste of my

childhood, too. >> oh, yeah. >> i got sent to boarding school when i was a teenager. east coast boarding school, everybody's like, you're from the gay bay. it was really difficult to negotiate being from san francisco. i would lie and say i was from napa because i was embarrassed, you know. >> really? >> i was at like a hockey school in massachusetts. i was going to get hazed for being from san francisco. >> so san francisco for you was -- >> i remember all sorts of facti factions, like skinheads and ska skaters, from the teenager's point of view and hippies and slightly older beatniks. everything was cheap. i don't think san francisco became an expensive rental town until maybe the last 10 years. >> i like this pan pacific -- >> they have a weird japanese

chinese oven. >> right. >> it's really good. it's really good. >> due yo you want that rib? >> no. >> i'm taking it. >> the narrative is evil techies are coming in and pushing out the mom and pop restaurants. >> that's a true thing. >> people they want to haze is google now, google and twitter? >> they're really hated, only by certain people. outside san francisco they're like heroes, they changed the world. >> yeah. we like them fine. >> i google things. legitimate. >> i google things, too. >> i do. it happens, right? >> look -- >> excuse me. >> google, they have their own buses, which is apparently a

bone of contention for people? >> yes. >> apparently if you work at google or twitter, lunch is freshly made frittatas. >> italian housewife making- - >> someone making kale smooth smoothies. i don't have any problem with it at all. >> i don't really either. i don't have a problem with that stuff at all. i think the only point about like the way the city is chan changing is, you know, just why. >> up what's cool about it? the city has a personality. it feels like a seedy old school american city, you know. do you want it to be the same everywhere you go. >> the san francisco right now is a pretty nice city, i think. >> it took me six months to be able to handle the warm-ups back

at my home academy. for a long time after i just prayed somebody would be more out of shape than me. the warm-ups at house are legend darely tough. they're proud of it, lasting in some classes, they say, a half hour and beyond, a ferocious unrelenting interval training. mortgage mortgage you go a block over, you're at alamo square, super high real estate. and five years ago, it there was like the hood and changed a lot. they started off -- ryan would be outside of the street, a bar, with a weber grill and built up

the business as the reputation best hamburger in the city and then he opened up this place. it's really good. le. wow. >> it's our presidential platter, hail pain no and cheddar sausages. our frank or ronnys on top of a hot dog. >> that's wrong. i want it. >> ribs, bris skit, chicken, the hog we were cooking earlier. potato salad and coleslaw. >> looks very very good. >> thank you. >> thanks, man. wow. how long have you been in the restaurant business societial? >> 17 years now. >> you have become reluctantly, i'm sure, sort of the poster boy for the beleaguered victimized by tech money what's happening in san francisco as a whole? >> yeah.

there's definitely good guys and bad guys and lots of people that came in now who haven't paid any dues can open something right way, drop $4 million in it or something. >> over the course of five years, richie built his restaurant into a beloved local favorite. then he made a deal to open a brick and mortar one. with that money came expectat n expectations and only four months in the [ bleep ] hit the fan. >> if you're going to open a restaurant, you're not going to make money. >> who makes money in a year. >> 30 days we were facing those sorts of things. >> the money, wanted to make some changes, richie did not. he left. the restaurant he created vap vaporized with him. >> at the old space we operated out of, they're doing a vegan brunch there now. >> no way. it really is the perfect story of evil triumphs over good.

>> the problem is there is a lot of people have the means to open a restaurant and sort of open formula restaurant, safe. any interesting food will get forced out and be a town full of chipot chipotles. no one surface... no one speed... no one way of driving on each and every road. but there is one car that can conquer them all. the mercedes-benz c-class. five driving modes let you customize the steering, shift points, and suspension to fit the mood you're in... and the road you're on. the 2016 c-class. starting at $38,950. you fifteen percent or more on huh, fiftcar insurance.uld save yeah, everybody knows that. well, did you know that playing cards with kenny rogers gets old pretty fast? ♪ you got to know when to hold'em. ♪

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thank you. >> you're welcome. >> now, when you're a white belt, especially a 59-year-old white belt facing younger stronger far better competitors, you don't go out there looking to win, you go out there to learn how to survive. if i can hold on, break their posture, give them something, anything to think about before they choke me out and i have to tap. the changes are not just happening in san francisco, across the bay in oakland,

gent gentrification is met with one would think a starker history of resistance. this after all is where the black panthers were born. bobby seal was a founder of the black panthers, a critical figure in oakland history. and here at miss ollie's, you get a taste of the shiny new oakland. >> the black panther is a type of animal, if you push it into a corner it will try to move out of your way. if you keep pushing it, sooner or later it will come out of that corner. said, that's like black people. we came up with the black panther's party and take a position on self-defense. >> the panthers were viewed by the fbi as public enemy number 1. >> they sold them as from your ima imagery, strong black man

holding weapons. what nixon really saw -- >> popularity with killing martin luther king, my organization spread across the country. it went beyond the black panther party. >> the panther's aims were, by today's standards, shock lig moderate, housing and education and employment and basic civil rights. the image of black men with guns was too much for the america of 1966. >> right after nixon was sworn in, i got the watergate tape. j. edgar, you've got to get rid of those black panthers. what are you doing? how have you been doing this? i want you to move and get rid of the black panthers. the man's just been sworn, the from of the united states. >> panthers strong points around the country, arrests are many. >> the fbi did everything they could to eradicate them. >> panthers say the police have broken in and killed one man at close range as he slept.

>> the dismantling of the panthers was brutal, everybody believe s an assassination campaign coupled with murder and arrests. >> we had no charges, nothing, they created, through their counter-intelligence program everything that happened to us. >> are you happy with the level of black activism in the country now? >> i like the level of activism and black lives matter movement is very very important because there's a bunch of young intelligent youth running this operation. >> do you think the good guys are winning? >> what? >> you look at it the way the country is running, do you think the good guys are winning? >> the bad guys, the koch brothers, tea party and all these right wing idiots are so far winning. young people have got to go out there and being progressive enough not only to end police brutality but create frameworks

and demanding. these are the kinds of things that has to happen. >> cauliflower, like general's chicken made with vegetables. it's one of our most popular dish, vegetable candy. >> a strip mall in oakland's neighborhood anassuming dish started by this woman. >> so good. >> i know you've been to india several times. maybe you had the puffed rice? >> yes, yes. >> we're in oakland and we serve

it in a ball jar. chutney, pickled cab biannual, pickled onions, fresh green garbanzo bean, puffed rice and chickpea noodles. >> oakland now, in terms of like artists and chefs has basically kids been priced out of san francisco. it's still possible for a place like this basically funded to open up. in san francisco, i don't think it's really possible anymore to do that. you need big investors. you need lots of funding. >> the food is both familiar and uniquely her own. >> chile conier is one of my favorites. it has bok choy, and other item, none of which would tradition traditionally be in it. >> does authenticity have any meaning or relevance anymore at

all? >> i would say our food is not traditional. is it authentic, hell, yeah, 100% authentic. saying it's not authentic is a person of indian origin in the united states is not authentic. i grew up eating indian food and pizza and hamburgers at this same time. >> how do you value indian food. >> totally. >> the explanation is you get authentic indian food cheap. super cheap. >> our food is not cheap. at yelp review, it is said to be overpri overpriced. $19 for a curry. do you know how to make a curry? >> yogurt marinated chicken s simm simmered. >> all right! this is our chicken curry,

raised on the bone. butter, fresh red peppers in there. >> that's totally delicious. >> this guy right here, you want to cut it open. >> get the camera in over, right here. prepare the in sicision. whoa! >> some people say its enindian scotche. we invented it, they didn't. we took a duck egg, cooked it, kept it soft, wrapped it in lamb and the sauce has braised leg of lamb in it. >> wow. really extraordinarily delicious. so, this is a positive thing. >> yeah. i think this is positive. >> a change we like? >> this is kind of change we like. >> i believe any place that serves delicious food is on the side of the angels. >> yeah, absolutely. people don't have to think about

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♪ >> extend your arm. your other arm. the other arm is anchored wrong, like this. >> did you see the vacant lot across the street? that was san jose china town

built in 1987. >> that was first. >> it was first. >> a chinese community first. >> right. 1897 was when some of the first japanese arrived in this area. >> southbound san jose, not much going on out here other than world domination by a small group of tech companies. on a happier less paranoid note, san jose has one of the last three japan towns in the country. >> who were the first japanese to come over? >> students, lay bores looking for a better life. in traditional japanese familyy the first son inherited everything. generally, it was the second son who would get nothing who came over. when the first japanese came here, one of the places they stayed at was chinatown. you would have an asian community. they would be able to find food similar to japanese food and there'd be a comrade.

>> thank you. curt grew up in the area. his family, like thousands of other japanese americans, were in terred in camps in world war ii. >> in the middle of the 20th century there was a lot of anti-asian prejudice. >> too many taking our jobs. >> some of them were buying our land. >> things got really bad for japanese after pearl harbor. it was an in terment program. >> so they had a list of all the na names. >> kids, too. >> children, too, they all had to go walking to the train station in downtown san jose. my mother did say in the beginning before they were brought to the camps they were brought to assembly centers where the camps were being built. it was the racetrack at santa anita and said they were actually sleeping in horse stalls. >> what happened to their property? >> some of the people found

caucasian friends to look over the property while they were gone. some of the japanese actually dug holes and buried possessions hoping if they come back -- >> they can dig it up. >> they can dig it up. yes. >> oh, wow. that brown gravy, awesome. it's sort of a hybrid of american dishes but with japanese ingredients. >> yes. this is your typical japantown restaurant food. >> i think some of the heartbreak of the in terment, this was really pure americana. the faces were asian but the businesses and feel was mayberry. >> right. this was a japanese-american community with em phasis on american. the japanese are actually a minority in this community now. >> how japanese will it be in 30 years? >> ah, that is the question.

i don't think it's good for anything to just kind of remain frozen in time. 30 years from now, japantown is going to look very different. if it looks like it does right now then, you know, we're talking about a very stagnant community. doc, i need you on point for this one. already got the latest updates direct from ford engineering. 'cause ford dealers get that intel first. treads, what do you got? lookin' a little bald, sir. with all due respect. got the perfect fit- ready to roll. wheels up, flaps down, let's fly. ford parts. ford tools. ford techs. when your ford needs service, there's one elite team. these are the specialists. at ford. who says families have to share data now get four lines. each with up to 10 gigs of 4g lte data. just $30 bucks a line it's 10 gigs for all

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♪ ♪ >> you've been in the restaurant business now in the san francisco area how many years? >> 26. >> basically you've been feeding well-heeled people much of that time. >> my whole life. >> daniel patterson is the chef of one of the great bay area restaurants, top of the fine dining world. two stars. but in 2014 he and chef choi of la's empire decided to embark on

a revolutionary and probably fool hardy and totally selfless enterpri enterprise. >> starting a fast-food venue. >> why? >> unbelievable. because in our country, there's so much of it it's okay for people to eat garbage basically, processed food. the tenderloin, the worst intersection, most drug arrests and homicides, the most vulnerable of our population are being fed the worst food consiste consistently. >> they try to address all those problems creating a fast-food business good for the world. >> this is tomato, onion garlic, a lot of olive oil. then scallion relish, grilled scallions and lime. veggie burger dressed exactly the same way, if you're like i

am, the word veggie burger will strike terror in your heart. >> yeah. it makes me violent, actually. >> this will not make you violent. it will make you happy. >> wow. i'd totally eat that. if you didn't call it a veggie burger i'd be all over this. >> yeah. >> fast, healthy and affordable. >> 2 to $6. >> so you're not going to get rich off this venture? >> we'll make money? >> you will make money? >> we have to. just because something hasn't been done doesn't mean it can't be done. >> saving the world is one thing, making sure that my san francisco mentor gets something to eat is another priority. >> this happened from, i grabbed this guy's collar and he broke my rib this way and my finger went here. >> i'm pretty sure curt hasn't

eaten here before. >> my finger broke against my 16 ounce glove against my head. that's how hard this guy pun punched. not everybody likes to get pu h punched in the face really hard. >> patterson's signature dish at qwa, beat rose, yogurt and rose petal ice. >> thank you. >> well, it's pretty. >> it's going to be good. this is great. >> watch the barbarian eat really fancy food. >> that looks good. >> yeah. >> some egg yolk and smoked oil, california caviar. it's fully cooked. >> a beautiful thing. thank you. i will love this.

>> oh, yeah. >> i could eat more of those. that was really good. >> why is there only one? >> born and bred in the san francisco area? >> yes. >> jiu-jitsu for how long? >> since '93, since before the first ufc. >> what was the preeminent martial art at the time? >> i think it was karate. right? chuck norris was big then, right, kick people in the head kind of thing. >> and the sauce underneath is grilled zucchini and herb grass and everything i grew myself in my house. >> that is killer. >> yes. excellent. >> do you eat carbs? i mean general ly speaking? you eat whatever? >> i can eat whatever.

my guys are all trying the bacon, and all bacon all of the time. >> yes, that cannot be good for you. >> no. miss, so sorry. >> that is okay. >> i'm not even buzzed. >> wild king salmon wrapped in uba with charred cabbage and ginger sauce, and sear ed fish with onion, and beef encrusted with mushrooms and bortelaisse. >> it is a taco.

>> yes. >> so, black sesame, mochiba and strawberry and kumquat and orange. gl oh, th . >> thank you so much. that is great. most of the people we talk to on the show are complaining that san francis san franciscoians are so clean and they are being supplanted by rich techies who are crushing the the original heart and soul of what made san francisco -- you are not seeing that? >> i think that the pushing out of the trash, sorry, is good. >> that is good for the jujitsu business for sure. >> well, i'm 95% white collar. my tech guys, they are dangerous and especially my lawyers. i have got lawyers.

me meaner than anything. >> yes, they would be. >> yes, exactly. ♪ anthony bourdain, parts unknown is brought to you by -- woman: it's been a journey to get where i am. and i didn't get here alone. " is brought to you by -- along the way. e wered people who gave me options. kept me on track. and through it all, my retirement never got left behind. so today, i'm prepared for anything

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♪ here's the thing about jujitsu and despite the fact that people are trying to choke you unconscious on the mats that you are scrambling for your life in a sea of sweat, it is a remarkably and testosterone-free. high fiving for instance is not done. one would not celebrate or brag about a submission and a fist pump and a yes! would with be inap pro inappropriate. win or lose, you shake your partner's hand. it is a douche-free environment.

>> this has been a very crazy week, dad. last night in a restaurant they gave you really small food. it was good. but then i came home and made a sandwich, because i was is so hungry. >> curt is having a barbeque. >> yes! chicken tartar, and this is why i end up on mondays smelling like barbeque in the gi, and as long as my hair does not start on fire. >> he spent a fair amount of training in brazil, and he is making a big pot of the country's national dish. dude. >> oh, man. look at that. oh, yeah. a slow cooked stew of beans and pig parts. >> and i grew up eating every piece of the animal there is because if you are starving, you will eat whatever there is is at

the table. >> plus grilled chicken hearts and tripe and sauce sajs. >> you like it like that, raw-ish? >> yes. >> i don't like overcooked meat. >> yes. there you go, bro. >> oh, wow. >> you want to open that up tomorrow? >> no. >> and i will have that tomorrow and still train with you tomorrow. >> you are the guy that still trains. fwl as soon as i started doing jujitsu, it hit a part of my psyche that it is more challenging and more than brute force and you to think. >> right, you see, i was always like the guy if you were the old lady that hired me to shovel the walk, i would do half of it and realize that it is too hard and just disappear. i cannot think of another thing that i attacked with such

regularity and with such -- i mean, i have been steadfast. >> it is not a matter of the you are good enough. sometimes, it has the -- it has to deal with maturity. >> old tends to get run over by the new. that is how it works. whether it is san francisco invaded by a new generation of people with different priorities or a 59-year-old man grappling with a bunch of younger and tougher and hungrier bastards. i don't know. i like to think that there is a hope, at a least hope that every once in a while, the old guys will have a good day. ♪

>> oh, my god. that was beautiful. that was beautiful. >> whew! -- captions by vitac -- www.vitac.com i'm mike rowe. i'm on a mission to find people on a mission. >> what some. >> what are they doing? how are they doing it? and why. >> that is exciting, mike. get it. ♪ >> it's gotta be done. oon this episode i realize that prairie dog relocation