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tv   Anthony Bourdain Parts Unknown  CNN  October 18, 2015 8:00pm-9:01pm PDT

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>> one, two, three. -- captions by vitac -- www.vitac.com ♪ >> what does it mean to be strong? it implies hardness and flexibility. okinawa is a place with a fighting tradition, a history of ferocious resistance, but it is nothing like what you might think. not at all. ♪ i took a walk through this beautiful world ♪ ♪ felt the cool rain on my shoulder ♪ ♪ found something good in this beautiful world ♪ ♪ i felt the rain getting
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colder ♪ ♪ sha la la la la ♪ sha la la la la la ♪ sha la la la la ♪ sha la la la la la la ♪ >> this is okinawa, just south of mainland japan. for all of the rigidity of japan, they answer in their own way unique way, don't eat the same thing each day, and there is even a term for it, champuto, mixed. it is for everyone to the eat, but maybe you are more familiar with the name okinawa from this,
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as the setting of some of the most horrifyingly bloody battles of the world war ii. how horrifying? for the allies more than 50,000 casualties with around 12,000 killed or missing in action over nearly three months of fighting. more than 100,000 japanese soldiers in okinawa conscripts were killed defending the the island. civilians were stuck in the middle middle of the two armies and they were crushed. no one will know for sure, but historians estimate that 150,000 men, women, children lost their lives during the battle. what most don't know is that okinawa had only become japan fairly recent ly, and that to a great extent oak gnaw wans did not consider themselves japanese or vice versa, and that okay gnaw wans and japanese considered themselves two different cultures and in most
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ways looked in different direction directions, and yet the okinawans were asked to make the ultimate sacrifice and they did. that is not just ancient history. it informs the present, still. okinawa is the largest of over 100 islands making up the eruki island chain. okinawa is different. it is tropical, and clearwater and some of the best beaches in asia and more laid back and less frenetic attitude than the mainland. you can feel it. you can see it. it is just different here. 2,000 pounds of heavily muscled
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beef enter s ts the arena. you can feel the ground shake under its heavy hooves. his opponent awaits. toyo also known as sumo, yes. but these are professionals and like the fighters before them, they shall fight before them having decidedly shed less blood than either of those gentlemen. two animals, two hammer, and they do like the burgess meredith job in "rocky" and like sumo wrestlers they are ranked by the record in the ring, and
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the highest being ocoe zuma. this is kenny and he lives up the road. is there a time limit or until somebody gives up? >> until they give up, but -- gl is there a point system? >> no, basically when the other one turns around and runs away, that is is the winner. a few times one bull will get around to the side and flip the bull over. >> will they win, lose or survive or both? >> once in a while, injuries, but most of the time, the bulls go home. >> go home to be happy, and nobody is turning in a steak or cutlet? >> no. >> and so it started in the 15th century in farming, pitting bull against bull. and they loved so it much, that they were banned in some areas, because farmers were spending too much time at the fights, and not growing sugar cane. they raised the beasts from
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calves and training them and conditioning them to be monsters in the ring on the other. >> whoa. [ speaking foreign language ] >> does one wager on this? gl i guess the e official answer would be that gambling is illegal in japan, but [ laughter ] >> intermission. time for the corn dog and funnel cake and curly fries? no. much better, much bitter, yakitori and what did, but when in okinawa, do as okinawans do, fry up the stuff on the griddle, and another in some soy and vinegar and sake, and seaweed
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powder and pickled ginger and eat. oh, he is is massive. >> oh, he is ready to go. this guy, he is going to win this one. >> and well, we have not seen the opponent. oh, yeah. my money is on him. ♪ >> that is a decisive winner there.
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i am not accusing anybody of gambling, but, i see some money changing hands. if he can do it, i can do it. if you are looking for suu kyi or raman, you will find them in okinawa, but what you need to know and what you must know is that in okinawa, pork is king. okay, they have tofu, too, and here at the restaurant, they do specifically okinawan food the okinawa way. >> this is the tofu where you can see the little taste. >> is it strong? >> it has a cheese texture. >> it is good. >> not bad, right? >> it is like bleu cheese. ah, pork belly. >> yes. >> okinawans love pork, every
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part of the magical animal, the pig. at this restaurant, it is is cooked with heavy flakes and a sauce, and the ears are thinly sliced and dressed in rice wine vinegarette. and the ribs after brined in sake are seared and roasted. so you grew up in new jersey. how did you find your way to okinawa? >> well, my mom was from here, and my dad was in the navy. he was stationed here. he met my mom, and wound up back in new jersey, because that is where my dad was from, patterson, and i was born and raised there. the school i went to, it was predominantly caucasian kids.
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>> yes. >> and there was not many asian americans at all. >> right. >> and i always had this kind of like identity complex. there would be like times where people would come to the house, and they would say, oh, where is your mom from? chai? >> -- china. >> and a open up the are refrigerator and say, what is that weird stuff? i thought, am i different, and one day my mom says, we are going back to okinawa on a family trip. i was 17 years old. >> you had not been to that point? >> no. but when i got off of the plane, i said, i'm here, this is my home. and being able to connect my r heritage felt something. i was like, wow, i belong here. >> how about the food, and what was in that refrigerator? because i know a lot of kids who grew up with that same sort of uncertainty when they brought their friends home from school to their house and opened the
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refrigerat refrigerator, and if kim chee or cabbage or the fish sauce, and they were aware of it when they visited the friends, but acutely uncomfortable with it when their friends came over, and man, have things changed as far as the attitudes, pretty much the engine of the new american cuisine, and our kids have childhoods like yours and i don't mean hip what is the next new thing, but literally redefining what is american cuisine. put it this way, the central irony of the story is that, you know, your mom would have been like hipster hero of new jersey now. it's hard to believe you can book over 11,000 local activities right from our app. it's even harder to believe it took you this long to come here.
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still another american invasion in the pacific, and the objective is okinawa, one of the fortresses projecting japan 300 miles away. >> on april 1st, 1945, the
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invasion fleet of nearly 1,500 ships, and a landing force of 182,000 people which is 75,000 more than normandy approached okinawa. what came next was what okinawans called the typhoon of steel. having island hopped across the pacific, allied forces saw okinawa as a key base for fleet anchorage and troop push for the japanese mainland and victory. the fighting was brutal for both sides and the cost of lives and resources for the allied forces was tremendous, and when it was over, the military planners look ed at the mainland and looked at what okinawa had cost them, and projected even more appalling losses. what came next, we all know. what is not widely known is that
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more people died main the battl of okinawa than all of those killed in the atomic bombings of hiroshima and nagasaki. >> the japanese invasion was only 60% when the u.s. military landed on okinawa, so that they had to keep the u.s. military force forces on okinawa to prepare the defense. and so, it seemed that battle of okinawa, and the okinawa people say we were sort of what you call -- >> sacrifice. >> yes. >> hmm mm-mmm. this is the former governor of okinawa. in 1945, he was a young conscript in the japanese imperial army and he fought hard
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and bravely gaiagainst the alli until he saw the japanese soldiers murdering the okinawans for food and water, and his faith whittled away. this is a restaurant serving traditional okinawan dishes. and in honor of the outspoken governor, this is a dish typically served to royals and vips in what was once the e rue cue king dom, and it means that after lacquered dish that the portions are served in. >> let's eat. >> oh, it is very good. there's some squid, swordfish wrapped in sea feed and fermented sake. dried sea snake wrapped in kombu
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and slow simmered.eed and fermed sake. dried sea snake wrapped in kombu and slow simmered.eed and ferme sake. dried sea snake wrapped in kombu and slow simmered.weed and fermd sake. dried sea snake wrapped in kombu and slow simmered. bu burdock pan fried and seared in soy, and pork shoulder dredged in black sesame and then steame steamed. >> well, you deskribcribed that were shocked and surprised to see, the japanese shoulders, the treatment of okinawans was not good in the battle? >> the united states forces came to okinawa -- and they issued the order regardless of military people and the civilian, and -- if you use the okinawa language,
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you will be killed as a spy, you know. >> right. >> but the okinawa people could not understand the order. so when the japanese started to kill the okinawa people. >> and particularly given the experience of the war, how japanese do you feel most people feel here? >> it is a fundamental difference of the japanese culture and the okinawan culture. the japanese culture is one culture, and the okinawa culture is different. >> do you think that easy-going, that reputation, that tradition of being happy-go-lucky, it has led to the okinawans being taken advantage of. for instance, the u.s. military bases, and in okinawa, 1% of the land mass of japan, and what
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percentage of the military bases are here in okinawa, almost all of them. okinawa is asked to make a lot of sacrifices for the mainland, and will that ever stop? >> you are talking about nimby. >> not in my backyard. >> yes. this cancer patient... christine... living her life... loving her family. moments made possible in part by the breakthrough science of advanced genomic testing. after christine exhausted the standard treatment options for her disease, doctors working with the center for advanced individual medicine at cancer treatment centers of america suggested advanced genomic testing. the test results revealed a finding that led to the use of a targeted therapy that was not considered for christine before. now, they're helping fight her cancer on another, deeper level... the genetic level. this is precision cancer treatment, an approach to care that may help patients like christine enjoy the things that matter most in
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for a place with as bloody a history, okinawa to dday is mor noticeably laid back than the mainland, but it does not mean that everybody has forgotten the warrior traditions. when the futile empire invaded okinawa in 1609, they banned the carrying, manufacturer or use of weapons of any kind. the ban was later reinforced in 1879 when japan formally annexed the island. it is believed that the prohibitions led directly to the development of a new style of martial art, indisputably born in okinawa, karate or empty hands technique. its even more vicious cousin
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that uses fishing tools to to a lethal effect. for everything soft, there must be something hard. this is one of the main traditional styles of karate featuring a combination of hard and soft techniques. golf means hard linear attacks and closed hand strikes and kicks. juk means soft, open hand, circular blocking, sweeping and takedown movements. sensei is a legendary master of this style of fighting. people come from all over to the world to study at his dojo and the training they get is hard core. i've been invited to watch his
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students warmup. let me repeat, this is only the warmup. that does not look like fun. the exercises are designed to repeatedly punish your hands and feet and building up larger and stronger deposits around the bones, and basically weaponizing even your weakest extremities, and it hurts to even watch. this is bad. this is bad. james pangovich, a brit, moved to okinawa in 1989 to study the way of the martial arts, and he acts as translator for most of the karate sensei on the island.
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earlier i had been in the market ci city. what are these? >> these are puffer fish. >> again? >> so we have some deep fried fish for us. >> and this is the unofficial national fish of okinawa and pork pine fish both battered and deep fried. le okinawas will eat any kind of fish that is battered and deep fried. but for us, one that is still twitching in the cell. >> and we will get sea grapes as well. >> oh, that is a traditional dish. >> yes. and it is dressed in seaweed and
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grapes. whatever you buy downstairs, the vendors upstairs will prepare it for you. >> oh. >> so okinawa's most pay mouse export perhaps is karate, and when we think of karate, we think of striking exclusively, and that is an accurate representation of what you are doing? >> on the basis of the okinawan karate, it was used primarily as the defensive art, and in other words, being able to control and subdue the opponent. usually, if you could do it in a humane way, but if you had the to finish them, you had the ability to finish them. the striking is important, but a lot of the technique is not about striking, but it is about submission techniques, and it has to do with the striking of the nerve point, and this form is extremely skilled with
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dealing with bigger and stronger opponents. >> point, point, point. point, point, point. then this, point. not closed, open. >> it is a demonstration of the open hand kushu technique becomes a little too real for my taste. >> awful. >> human engineering with the terrifying logic. one attacks the weak point. all i know how the do in this situation is to pull guard and look for something to choke or lock. nope. apparently they don't know what tapping out means, because i was tapping like western god damned union and i was going to think that he would push that
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70-year-old finger through my head. >> and he would say that people would go to have a look, and they would say, are they fighting with fists or open hands. and if it is with fists, they would say, oh, don't bother, it is a amateur fight. but if it is open hands, they knew they were masters. well, just put on a breathe right strip which instantly opens your nose up to 38% more than cold medicine alone. shut your mouth and say goodnight mouthbreathers. breathe right
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on the eastern coast of okinawa, yanks enter the village of ken. >> the u.s. military came ashore in 1945, and to okinawans it must seem like they never left. today, there are roughly 30,000 troops stationed on the island. put that many americans in a place, especially young mostly male americans, and many of them home sic, and it tends to change the environment. this town is near camp hanson, one of the larger bases. this is a small slice of americana and both the mainstream america and the dark underbelly.
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the okinawans have made the adjustments that is saddle thousands of marines, and in the 1980s a adjusted food to this, a mutant classic, taco rice. >> taco and rice. a that is taco rice. >> wow. >> wow. it is is big. >> is this chili sauce or -- >> it is a taco rice sauce and a little bit saucy, but not super spicy. >> vivian has lived in both the u.s. and okinawa, and her aunt sumiko is an entertainer who began singing in the american bases after the war. >> wow, that is good. >> they are dualing claiming as to how the taco rice morphed
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into existence, but she is certain. in the 1980s, the american servicemen introduced standard tacos to the okinawans and her grandfather decided to tweak them to dump it straight on to rice for the crowds coming in. and this unholy and greasy and starchy delight and booze mop classic turned on big time for americans missing home, and locals. so i consider myself a pretty pro military guy, but why are the marines here? look, i like the marine, but i am not robert mcnamara, but it seems that if you are going to war with okinawa, sending in the marines is not what you are going to do. so people of your generation, what is your attitude of the bases? >> as long as we are not living near the base, it does not affect us. >> but near the base is a
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difference? >> yes, near it. you know that right away and it is tattoo parlors and the strip clubs and a vape shop. gl and also, it is very loud. that is a big issue. >> tourism is probably the future of okinawa, and beautiful weather. beaches, and if the bases leave, it is big hotels and resorts and golf courses. what is worst? chinese tourists or american marines? >> i will stick with the marines. [ laughter ] >> is semper fi. >> not everyone agrees with vivian, because the marines may be easy going and laid back, but what okinawans see is high handed treatment of a central government with different
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culture and traditions who don't consider their needs or prioritie priorities, and they are huge areally disproportionate shouldering of the u.s. military presence for the entire country. currently, there are close to 30 military installations on o okinawa, and even though it is one of the smallest japanese prefectures in terms of the livable area, they accommodate more than half of the foreign military presence. even more problematic, much of okinawa's arid land that is suitable for farming, and whose whole island tradition was suitable for farming is eaten up by the military bases. the military base issue, is this more important for older people or younger people? >> it is for the older people. >> the older people? >> yes. so when you actually go to a place where they have a, like a protest going on, i would say that over 80% of the people are all retired persons.
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>> why do you believe that is? >> this is only my opinion, but japanese imperial army did a lot of brutal stuff on this island and war never ended for these people, and the feelings that they got suppressed, all of the sudden after they retired, they kind of burst. they wanted to kind of -- there act out. >> act out. >> this is kaji yota, and this is a small noodle shop that bears his name and serves only okinawa-style soba. it is raw fish and vegetable and pork stock. this differs greatly from what we know are from the mainland, because they use wheat noodles and not the buckwheat and a nod to the spaghetti-eating soldier
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s they have lived with. and you add the hot sauce, and ooh-rah. it seems that there is an anti-base and anti-government symbolism here, and is there activism to be called for here? >> i think that the young people need to decide about the future and instead of the old people just fight ing fing for their b. to me, i feel a strong need to forgive, and then forget, and then move on. just might be the one.
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americans arrived and long before the satsuma invaded the mainland, it was the eruku island. the people were farmers and traders and dip e low mats and whose eyes looked to the west to china rather than to the more isolated mainland. while japan was isolationists, ethnically and culturally and
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every other way, the you rue cue king dom was not. they were more predisposed to dealing with the outside world and its influences. today, just a short ferry ride from the mainland island, there is a sense of the long gone empire remains. there is a small island that is largely untouched by the changes in the world. people farm and fish as they always did. the war nef came here? >> no. this is kumajima residents and friends of james. >> they suffered no damage in the war. >> and no military bases? >> well, up until 1972, there was an american base.
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gl oh, there was. >> translator: but then the base was taken away. >> and now, nothing? >> no, we don't need the japanese defense forces now. >> and what do people do here now? grow sugar cane? >> tourism. >> fishing. >> have been are there attempts to develop here and have the locals been able to resist the impulse? >> he is saying that here they have rich lives and everything they need. they have produce from the land and the sea. they don't need much else. >> when you get invited to a barbeque, beach style, go big or go home. this is a fish to be butchered
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into sashimi, and also caught were sea snails and some seaweed which can be cooked, but today, it is enjoyed raw, and local prawns eaten either raw, grilled or both. >> now, that is looks awesome. off with the head? [ laughter ] >> oh. there's more. local beef grill and then tossed with is seasoned bean sprouts. we will need our energy, it appears. tagumi is as old school a a martial art as it gets. no ring, no octagon and the rules are imple and known as okinawan sumo, it looks easy. it is not. your hands are wrapped in your
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opponent's belt. object is to get them on to his back, both shoulders before he does it to you. nice. you land on your back for even a seco second, you lose. >> there you go. [ applause ] >> would you like to t the try? >> yeah, sure. ♪ >> whoa! [ applause ]
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o oh. >> yes. >> in the end, it is less than a smoothly executed move that brings my opponent to the ground. whoa. thank you for going easy on me. awesome. energy. focus. help turn your potential... into reality. start every day with milk's 8 grams of high-quality protein. how will you milk life?
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so i've given up many vices many -- in my life and many sha shameful guilty pleasures that i just -- i just don't do anymore. cocaine, heroin, prostitutes, the musical stylings of steven tyler, and i have puts a side the childish things as it were in favor of a newer more mature me, but there is one shameful
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secret, one thing that i just can't give up. one thing that i keep coming back to every time i come back to japan, one thing that still has an unholy grip on me. for no reason that i can gather. it's a convenient store formerly of akron, ohio, that mutated into a massive japanese chain and e behold the wonder that is lawson. what about this place that has the tentacles so deep into my heart and my soul? where are you? i know that you are around here somewhere. pillows of love.
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egg salad. i need a beverage. pillow pillows of love. here you would be advised to avoid international avenue, unless you are home is sic for fellow americans. the store fronts giveway to packed areas, and break out a few beers, and the good times begin. people go out here, and after pound i pounding your fists in meet hook, you go to dojo bar, and the masters come to what the
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cure for all martial arts ailments, alcohol. >> would you like a beer? >> maybe a shot of something. >> well, do i have a shot of somethin something. >> what is your snake's name? >> it is like mainland sake, but it is fermented and so it is stronger, and ages in here with the snake for maybe three years, and has all of the essence of the snake into the alcohol. ♪ >> there seems to be a conflict of interests here. you train karate, very
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seriously. >> yes. >> and should you people be drinking? that is what i am asking. where is the point of di m diminishing returns? >> there are not many teachers who don't drink. this is intrinsic to the culture, and most of us enjoy it as part of the lifestyle in the same way that karate is part of the lifestyle. they are saying please eat, and less talking and more eating. >> sthis is meat that you like. >> this is horse meat. >> ah. good. and this? >> goat. >> goat. ooh, that is is good.
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pure protein for people who need it. and pork belly, some pickled pigs ears and baked yam. i watch a lot of the mix ed martial arts and i watch a lot of jujitsu, and my daughter trains, and mostly jujitsu, but some standup, a nd some of the most exciting fighters that i have seen lately who show the most heart are women. is there a, is there a future for women in karate? [ speaking foreign language ] >> yeah, yeah. >> there is a female student here tonight. this is ya-ya. tony is asking, what is the future for women in traditional
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karate. >> when i started karate, i did not know this word, but now i am learning karate as life. everything is all about love. and karate is showing you that if you have this kind of power and ability to protect yourself, your family, you can be really kind. so i think that okinawa people have this love to everybody. have this love to everybody. ♪ -- captions by vitac -- www.vitac.com
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i will never be young again. or any younger than i am today. i will never be faster or more flexible. i will never win competitions against 22-year-old wrestlers in my weight class. i will never be a black belt. none of those things will happen, but none of that matters anymore. ♪

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