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tv   Anthony Bourdain Parts Unknown  CNN  October 18, 2015 9:00pm-10:01pm PDT

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i will never be young again. or any younger than i am today. i will never be faster or more flexible. i will never win competitions against 22-year-old wrestlers in my weight class. i will never be a black belt. none of those things will happen, but none of that matters anymore. ♪ ♪ i took a walk through this
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beautiful world ♪ ♪ felt the cool rain on my shoulder ♪ ♪ found something good in this beautiful world ♪ ♪ i felt the rain getting colder la-la sha la-la-la sha la-la-la >> san francisco is changing. we all know it.
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you can't stop it. were you born here? both generations of my grandparents were from san francisco. my dad's side came out for the gold rush, in the 1850s. >> author john grew up in this town and he's a close observer of the changes happening here. when i first came to san francisco i was making all the same sort of tired jokes that everyone from new york to san francisco makes. the granola and the bread. >> yeah. >> in fact, nothing can be further from the truth. san francisco is an outrageously dirty town. it's grimy. you guys have actual street hookers in this center of town. it's a two-fisted hand me drinking, big martini, big state, heavy smoking, old school '20s mentality still. >> yes.
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google is not too far from here. >> according to many locals, the whole character of the city is being leached out by an invasion of tech people, the flood of tech money. it's the triumph of the nerds, out with the old, in with the new. >> no place epitomizes that better than where we are now. >> i tell any to come and meet me here, they sort of laugh at me. it's this thing that doesn't really exist in san francisco anymore. not self-consciously diving, has this faded worn out, smells kind of sour. >> sinbads, lost in time yet its time running out, living out its last stand on san francisco's pier 2, just south of the neck beards and manbun vapors buying coffee a few yard is a way. >> my mom used to come here and used to be like a secretary. there was a place that catered to unglamorous office workers.
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those are rarer and rarer. >> is the relentless wheel of history going to roll over this place. >> yeah, it will eventually roll over this place. the location is too good. it's one of the best views in san francisco. >> a last drink or two before the grinding wheels of the apocalypse churn through, leaving what in their wake? >> they want to put a ferry terminal here, is that right? >> yeah. they want to build a fancy ferry terminal. young people coming here in the tech industry are insulated from the culture of san francisco. since the beach generation or even since the end of second world war. and people came to san francisco in their 20s to do a very specific thing. san francisco is a place you can have an acid trip and see the stuff you thought about yourself is kind of bull. and even though culture is changing and even though it's horrifyingly expensive --
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>> right. >> -- there's still something like that that exists in san francisco. you will always have that. san francisco will always make an impression on you. ♪ >> san francisco was built on toughness. it's a boozy town, a saloon town. red meat, sex and dirt. >> every morning, every morning, 7:00 a.m., i'm here. for the next hour or two hours or sometimes more, i'm just getting crushed. humility. jujitsu gives you that in spades. in 1914, master of judo and prize fighter immigrated to brazil and befriended a man and
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ended up teaching his sons and brazilian jiu-jitsu and the usc all goes back to the gracies. my home academy is renzo gracie in manhattan. the reason i'm here is to train here, help gracie academy, one of the toughest and notorious and most admired. to a great extent because of the relationship between the terrifying -- >> he looks at you like he's got a problem. his eyes are menacing. >> -- and this man, beloved in the jiu-jitsu community because of his remarkably honest and unvarnished movie of the week videos. >> he gets stuck in the side control here and he gave the guy an underhook. boom. a long time ago, it's so bad now you have to work really hard. scoop p.
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head up! get self-control over the other guy. >> when you see an mma fight, when they strike, it's usually boxing for mitai or karate. when they throw or trip their opponent, it's wrestling. but when it hits the ground, you better now it's brazilian jiu-jitsu. object, to lock your opponent in such a way to make them submit. i do not want this getting my guard broken. that's bad. it sucks. there's full mount. armbar. ezekiel choke. rear naked choke. bow and arrow. then, as they say, my choices become very limited. it's tap, snap, or natural.
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>> start to rotate towards and extend your arm. put your head -- no, no. don't lift him up. put your head this way, extend this arm. yes, pass it. hands a little bit tight. you can always adjust it. >> in case you haven't noticed, i'm an old school guy. i'm sentimental about some things, nautical themed restaurants, puppies, and places like this. i'm fully aware of the fact -- i can hear it already -- every show you've ever done in san francisco, you come here. >> yes. that's correct. true love cannot be denied. i need a counter with some familiar faces on the other side. >> good morning. >> what am i having?
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i'm having the crab, of course. >> i'll get you one. >> i need a cold draft beer. >> i deserve this beer. i'm like a real housewife of new york city, i only eat healthy and low carbs. >> look at the size of that one! here it is, a crab back! >> dude. i guess somebody throws this away, tear the legs off and eat them and then throw this out, stupid people, all that good stuff, the fat and magic, it's like unicorn juice. swan oyster depot, a touchstone in my worldwide wanderings, a happy zone. if i read about myself dying at this counter, i say to myself, that was one lucky guy. >> sweet. >> nice plate of crab legs, maybe a little louie on the side?
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>> i guess. so good. >> tony, here you go, babe. i have local miyagis. >> it's for trainings. gives me super human strength. on the other hand, coughing up oysters all over the front of my gee might not be cool. local activities listed on our app. or that you could book them right from your phone. a few weeks ago, you still didn't know if you were gonna go. now the only thing you don't know,
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the bay area is changing forever. will san francisco's new overlords find place in their hearts for this? trader vick's. one of the last of its kind. started in oakland, a wave of
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tiki themed polynesian fantasy restaurants and bar clubs for a time spread across america. >> i definitely need the drinks menu. i've been eating like a chicken fried steak. >> you were doing some sort of martial art, weren't you. >> i want the maitai wave. >> what's the maitai wave? >> a flight of maitais. >> not many do this. very few do it without irony. >> this is not the first time you have been here? >> no. i practically grew up in this place. >> really? >> my parents used to take me from like age 3. >> author, shawn, grew in san francisco and his parents were regulars. i used to drop acid and go to hawaii kai, so this kind of thing is a taste of my childhood, too. >> oh, yeah. >> i got sent to boarding school
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when i was a teenager. an east coast boarding school, everybody's like, you're from the gay bay. it was really difficult to just negotiate being from san francisco. i would lie and say i was from napa because i was embarrassed, you know. >> really? >> yeah, i was at like a hockey school in massachusetts. i was going to get hazed for being from san francisco. >> so san francisco for you was -- >> i just remember all sorts of factions, like skinheads and skaters, that was from the teenager's point of view and hippies and slightly older beatniks. everything was cheap. i don't think san francisco became an expensive rental town until maybe the last ten years. >> i love this pan pacific -- >> they have a weird japanese chinese oven. >> right.
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>> it's really good. it's really good. >> do you want that rib? >> no. >> i'm taking it. >> the narrative is evil techies are coming in and pushing out the mom and pop restaurants. >> that's kind of a true thing. >> people they want to hate is google now, google and twitter? >> they're really hated, only by certain people. outside san francisco they're like heroes, they changed the world. >> yeah. we like them fine. >> i google things. legitimate. >> i google things, too. >> i do. it happens, right? >> look -- >> excuse me. >> google, they have their own buses, which is apparently a bone of contention for people? >> yes.
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>> apparently if you work at google or twitter, lunch is freshly made frittatas. italian housewife making, someone making kale smoothies. i don't have any problem with it at all. >> i don't really either. i don't have a problem with that stuff at all. i think the only point about like the way the city is changing is, you know, just what a screw up was cool about it? the city has a personality. it feels like a seedy old school american city, you know. do you want it to be the same everywhere you go? the san francisco right now is a pretty nice city. >> it took me six months to be able to handle the warm-ups back at my home academy.
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for a long time after i just prayed somebody would be more out of shape than me. the warm-ups at house are legendarily tough. they're proud of it, lasting in some classes, they say, a half hour and beyond, a ferocious unrelenting interval training. >> you go a block over, you're attal lo square, where the "full house" houses are, super high real estate. and five years ago, it there was like the hood and changed a lot over the past five years. this is where they meet. they started off -- like ryan would be outside a bar, with a weber grill and built up the business as the reputation best hamburger in the city and then he opened up this place. it's really good.
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>> it's our presidential platter, jalapeno and cheddar sausage. our frankoronies on top of a hot dog. >> that's wrong. i want it. >> ribs, brisket, chicken, the hog we were cooking earlier. potato salad and coleslaw. >> life is sud len i have, very good. thank you. >> you're welcome. >> thanks, man. wow. how long have you been in the restaurant business total? >> 17 years now. >> you have become reluctantly, i'm sure, sort of the poster boy for the beleaguered victimized by evil tech money, example of what's happening in san francisco as a whole? >> yeah.
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there's definitely good guys and bad guys and lots of people that came in now who haven't paid any dues, can open something right way, drop $4 million in it or something. >> over the course of five years, chef richie built his pop-up restaurant into a beloved local favorite. then he made a deal to open a brick and mortar one. with that money came expectations and only four months in, it hit the fan. >> if you're going to open a restaurant, you're not going to make money. who makes money in a year. >> 30 days we were facing those sorts of things. >> the money, wanted to make some changes, richie did not. so he left. the restaurant he created vaporized with him. >> at the old space that we operated out of, they're doing a vegan brunch there now. >> no way. it really is the perfect story of evil triumphs over good.
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>> i think that's the problem with the city right now is there is a lot of people have the means to open a restaurant and sort of open formula restaurant, safe. any interesting food will get forced out and be a town full of chipotles. alright team, we've got an f150, needs a systems check and tires. doc, i need you on point for this one. already got the latest updates direct from ford engineering. 'cause ford dealers get that intel first. treads, what do you got? lookin' a little bald, sir. with all due respect. got the perfect fit- ready to roll. wheels up, flaps down, let's fly. ford parts. ford tools. ford techs. when your ford needs service, there's one elite team. these are the specialists. at ford.
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♪ you two lovely ladies, coffee. >> thank you. >> you're welcome. >> now, when you're a white belt, especially a 59-year-old white belt facing younger, stronger, far better competitors, you don't go out there looking to win, you go out there to learn how to survive. if i can hold on, break their posture, give them something, anything to think about before they choke me out and i have to tap. the changes are not just happening in san francisco, across the bay in oakland, gentrification is met with one
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would think a starker history of resistance. this after all is where the black panthers were born. bobby seal was a founder of the black panthers, a critical figure in oakland history. and here at miss ollie's, you get a taste of the shiny new oakland. >> the black panther is a type of animal, if you push it into a corner it will try to move out of your way. if you keep pushing it, sooner or later it will come out of that corner. so i said, that's like black people. we came up with the black panther's party and take a position on self-defense. >> the panthers were viewed by j. edgar hoover's, the phish, anyway, as public enemy number one. >> they sold them as from your imagery, strong black man holding weapons. internally what the fbi and nixon saw was the real threat of
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the panthers was -- >> popularity with killing martin luther king, my organization spread across the country. it went beyond the black panther party. >> the panther's aims were, by today's standards, shockingly moderate, housing and education and employment and basic civil rights. but the image of black men with guns was too much for the america of 1966. >> right after nixon was sworn in, i got the watergate tape. j. edgar, you've got to get rid of those black panthers. what have you wro been doing? how have you been doing this? i want you to move and get rid of the black panthers. the man's just been sworn, the from of the united states. >> panthers strong points around the country, arrests are many. >> the fbi did everything they could to eradicate them. >> the panthers say the police have broken in and killed one man at close range as he slept. >> the dismantling of the
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panthers was brutal, everybody agrees an assassination campaign coupled with murder and arrests. >> we had no charges, nothing. they created, through their counter-intelligence program, everything that happened to us. >> are you happy with the level of black activism in the country now? >> i like the level of activism that's going on. and black lives matter movement is very, very important because there's a bunch of young intelligent youth running this operation. >> do you think the good guys are winning? >> what? >> you look at it the way the country is running, do you think the good guys are winning? >> the bad guys, the koch brothers -- >> the bad guys are winning? >> -- tea party, and all these right wing idiots are so far winning. young people have got to go out there and being progressive enough not only to end police brutality but to create
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frameworks and demanding. these are the kinds of things that has to happen. that has to happen. >> cauliflower, in chinese, like general's chicken made with vegetables. it's one of our most popular dish, vegetable candy. >> a strip mall in oakland's neighborhood an assuming dish started by this woman. >> so good. >> i know you've been to india a bunch of times. maybe you had the puffed rice salad? >> yes, yes. >> what we do, because we're in oakland, we serve it in a ball jar.
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chutney, cilantro chutney, pickled cab biannual, pickled onions, fresh green garbanzo beans, puffed rice, and chickpea noodles. >> oakland now, in terms of like artists and chefs has basically kids been priced out of san francisco. it's still possible for a place like this basically funded by ptnry to open up. in san francisco, i don't think it's really possible anymore to do that. you need big investors. you need lots of funding. >> the food is both familiar and uniquely her own. >> chile conier is one of my favorites. this one here has bok choier choy, and none of this would be in traditionally. >> does authenticity have any meaning or relevance anymore at all? >> i would say our food is not
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traditional. is it authentic, hell, yeah, 100% authentic. saying it's not authentic is my experience is not authentic. saying that i'm a person of indian origin in the united states is not authentic. i grew up eating indian food and pizza and hamburgers at this same time. >> so tasty. something we struggle with in new york is always how do you value indian food? >> yeah, totally. >> the explanation is you get authentic indian food cheap. super cheap. >> our food is not cheap. you look at the yelp review or whatever, the biggest thing is somehow we're overpriced. $19 for a curry. do you know how to make a curry? >> yogurt marinated chicken simmered in a curry made of onions, bell peppers, chilies. >> all right! this is our chicken curry, braised on the bone.
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butter, fresh red peppers in there. >> that's totally delicious. >> then this guy right here, you want to cut it open. >> all right. get the camera in over, right here. prepare the incision. whoa! >> what some people say, oh, its an indian scotch. we invented it, they didn't. what we have done is we took a duck egg, cooked it, kept it soft, wrapped it in lamb and the sauce has braised leg of lamb in it. >> wow. really extraordinarily delicious. so, this is a positive thing. >> yeah. i think this is positive. >> a change we like? >> this is kind of change we like. >> i believe any place that serves delicious food is on the side of the angels. >> yeah, absolutely.ger from vir. it's been smashed, dropped and driven.
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extend your arm. your other arm. the other arm is anchored wrong, like this. >> did you see the vacant lot across the street? that was san jose china town built in 1987.
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>> that was first. >> it was first. >> a chinese community first. >> right. 1897 was when some of the first japanese arrived in this area. >> south bay, san jose, not much going on out here other than world domination by a small group of tech companies. on a happier less paranoid note, san jose has one of the last three japan towns in the country. >> who were the first japanese to come over? >> students, laborers looking for a better life. traditional japanese family, the first son inherited everything. generally, it was the second son who would get nothing who would come over. when the first japanese came here, one of the places they stayed at was chinatown. you would have an asian community. they would be able to find food similar that was to japanese food and there'd be a comrade. >> thank you. curt grew up in the area.
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his family, like thousands of other japanese americans, were interred in camps in world war ii. >> in the beginning of the 20th century there was a lot of anti-asian prejudice. >> too many taking our jobs. >> some of them were buying our land. >> things got really bad for the japanese after pearl harbor. it was an interment program. >> so they had a list of all the names. >> kids, too. >> yes, children, too. they all had to go walking to the train station in downtown san jose. my mother did say in the beginning before they were brought to the camps they were brought to assembly centers while the camps were being built. it was the racetrack at santa anita and so she said they were actually sleeping in horse stalls. >> what happened to their property? >> some of the people found caucasian friends to look over the property while they were
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gone. some of the japanese actually dug holes and buried possessions hoping if they come back -- >> they can dig it up. >> they can dig it up. yes. >> oh, wow. that brown gravy, awesome. it's sort of a hybrid of american dishes but with japanese ingredients. >> yes. this is your typical japantown restaurant food. >> i think some of the heartbreak of the interment, this was really pure americana. the faces were asian but the businesses and feel was mayberry. >> right. this was a japanese-american community with an emphasis on american. the japanese are actually a minority in this community now. >> how japanese will it be in 30 years? >> ah, that is the question.
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i don't think it's good for anything to just kind of remain frozen in time. 30 years from now, japantown is going to look very different. if it looks like it does right now then, you know, we're talking about a very stagnant community.
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♪ >> you've been in the restaurant business now in the san francisco area how many years? >> 26. >> basically you've been feeding well-heeled people much of that time. >> my whole life. >> daniel patterson is the chef of one of the great bay area restaurants, top of the fine dining world. two stars. but in 2014 he and chef roy choi of la's empire decided to embark on a revolutionary and probably fool hardy and totally selfless enterprise.
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>> what are you up to now? what are you doing? >> starting a fast-food venue. i mean -- >> why? >> it's unbelievable that in our country so much of it, we've just decided it's okay for people to eat garbage basically, processed food. the tenderloin, the area that we're going to, traditionally the worst intersection in the city, most drug arrests, most homicides. the most vulnerable of our population are being fed the worst food consistently. >> they try to address all those problems, creating a fast, casual, food business good for the world. >> awesome sauce, this is tomato, onion garlic, a lot of olive oil. then scallion relish, grilled scallions and lime. veggie burger dressed exactly the same way. if you're like i am, the word veggie burger will strike terror in your heart. >> yeah. it makes me violent, actually. >> this will not make you
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violent. it will make you happy. >> wow. i'd totally eat that. if you didn't call it a veggie burger, i'd be all over this. >> yeah. >> fast, healthy, and affordable. >> $2 to $6. >> so you're not going to get rich off this venture? >> we'll make money. >> you will make money? >> we have to. just because something hasn't been done doesn't mean it can't be done. >> saving the world is one thing, making sure that my san francisco mentor gets something to eat is another priority. >> this happened from, i grabbed this guy's collar and he broke my rib this way and my finger went here. >> i'm pretty sure curt hasn't eaten here before. >> my finger broke against my 16 ounce glove against my head. that's how hard this guy
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punched. not everybody likes to get punched in the face really hard. >> right, no. >> patterson's signature dish at qwa, the beet rose, yogurt and rose petal ice. >> thank you. >> that's beautiful. >> this disappears quickly. >> thank you. >> well, it's pretty. >> it's going to be good. this is great. >> watch the barbarian eat really fancy food. >> that looks good. >> yeah. >> some egg yolk poached and smoked oil, california caviar. it's fully cooked. egg is not raw, it's fully cooked. >> a beautiful thing. thank you. i will love this.
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>> oh, yeah. i'll take eight more of those. that was really good. >> why is there only one? >> born and bred in the san francisco area? >> yes. >> jiu-jitsu for how long? >> since '93, since before the first ufc. >> what was the preeminent martial art at the time? >> i think it was karate. >> karate, right? >> chuck nor russ was big then, right, kick people in the head kind of thing. >> look at that. >> tomatoes, peeled. sauce underneath is grilled zucchini and wheat grass. herb on top. everything i grewi isist myself my house. >> that is killer. >> yes. excellent. >> do you eat carbs? i mean generally speaking? you eat whatever? >> i can eat whatever. my guys are all trying the bacon, and all bacon all of the time. >> all bacon all the time. that can't be good for you.
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>> no. miss, so sorry. >> that is okay. thanks for calling me miss. >> i'm not even buzzed. >> wild king salmon wrapped in uba with charred cabbage and dried scalloped ginger sauce. seared fawn with new onions. wow, this is awesome. >> is that meat? >> oh, yeah. >> what is it covered in? >> beef tenderloin encrusted and likened with coastal spinach, mushrooms, and bordelaise. >> this is so good. so good, yeah. >> it is a taco. >> yes.
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>> so, black sesame, mochiba, and strawberry and kumquat and orange. >> awesome. thank you so much. it's been great. this is great. most of the people we talk to on the show are complaining that san francisco is becoming too clean. real san franciscoans are so clean and they are being supplanted by rich techies who are crushing the the original heart and soul of what made san francisco awesome. you are not seeing that? >> i think that the pushing out of the trash, sorry, is good. >> that is good for the jujitsu business for sure. >> well, i'm 95% white collar. my tech guys are really big. dangerous, man. especially my lawyers. i have got lawyers. >> really? >> yeah, their meaner than -- >> yes, they would be. >> yes, exactly. just might be the one.
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here's the thing about jujitsu, in spite the fact that people are trying to choke you unconscious on the mats that you are scrambling for your life in a sea of sweat, it is a remarkably and testosterone-free zone. high fiving for instance is not done. one would not celebrate or brag about a submission and a fist pump and a yes! would with be considered inappropriate. win or lose, you shake your partner's hand. it is a douche-free environment. >> this has been a very crazy week, dad. last night in a restaurant they gave you really small food.
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it was good. but then i came home and made a sandwich, because i was so hungry. >> curt is having a barbeque. >> yes! chicken tartar, and this is why i end up on mondays smelling like barbeque in the gi, and . why the you smell like barbecue? because i was over a fire all day. as long as my hair does not start on fire. >> he spent a fair amount of training in brazil, and he is making a big pot of the country's national dish. dude. >> oh, man. look at that. oh, yeah. a slow cooked stew of beans and pig parts. >> and i grew up eating every piece of the animal there is because if you are starving, you will eat whatever there is is at the table. right? >> plus grilled chicken hearts
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and tri-tip and sausages. >> you like it like that, raw-ish? >> yes. >> me, too. i don't like overcooked meat. >> yes. >> the food is ready. >> yes. there you go, bro. >> oh, wow. >> you want to open that up tomorrow? >> no. are you kidding me? >> and i will have that tomorrow and still train with you tomorrow. >> you are the guy that still trains. >> as soon as i started doing jujitsu, it hit a part of my psyche that was like, it is more challenging and more than brute force and you have to think. >> right, you see, i was always like the guy if you were the old lady that hired me to shovel the walk, i would do half of it and realize that it is too hard and just disappear. honestly, i cannot think of another thing in my life that i attacked with such regularity and with such -- i mean, i have been steadfast.
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>> it is not a matter of if you are good enough. sometimes, it has the -- it has to deal with maturity. >> the old tends to get run over by the new. that is how it works. whether it is san francisco invaded by a new generation of people with different priorities or a 59-year-old man grappling with a bunch of younger, fresher, tougher, and hungrier bastards. i don't know. i like to think that there is a hope, at a least hope that every once in a while, the old guys will have a good day. ♪ >> oh, my god.
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that was beautiful. that was beautiful. >> whew! -- captions by vitac -- www.vitac.com i'm mike rowe. i'm on a mission to find people on a mission. >> what? >> what are they doing? how are they doing it? and why? >> that is exciting, mike. we got to get it. ♪ >> it's gotta be done. on this episode i discover that prairie dog relocation is a strange business. oh, my god. i smell like a french whore. >> yeah, you do. >> but there's no doubt who is calling the shots. and so it goes god, lynda, whitney and me. >> yes.

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