still present. and coming to terms with it is not an abstract discussion, but the daily business of life. ♪ ♪

♪ ♪ i took a walk through this beautiful world ♪ ♪ felt the cool rain on my shoulder ♪ ♪ found something good in this beautiful world ♪ ♪ i felt the rain getting colder ♪ ♪ sha la la la la sha la la la la la ♪ ♪ sha la la la la sha la la la la la la ♪

♪ >> anthony: in bahia, you find yourself in the heart of the heart of brazil. where the magic comes from. if you wanna get there, just follow the sound of the drums. this is salvador de bahia. city of 3 million people. first capital of brazil. the wellspring for everything african and spicy. where things seem to just sway and move constantly. it's a place where everybody is sexy. where even the ugly people are hot. unsurprisingly, this is where artists come from. african spiritualism, occult magic, candomblé, capoeira. caipirinha? and caipirinhas. did i mention caipirinhas?

they do those here, too. i like them. i like them a lot. what's magical about this cocktail is the first taste. it's like, i don't know man. it's a little too something. and then like that second sip, it's like, aw, that's kinda good. then the third sip, it's -- where are my pants? fortunately food in these parts tends to be, shall we say, hearty. for instance, a delightful meal of fried meat with plenty of absorbent starch product, like farofa. the perfect accompaniment to many, many caipirinhas. oh, excellent. obrigado. now we're talking. it's a tough town for vegetarians. oh, chorizo, good. and i'll have six more of these please. people are staring at me. they're saying, "look at that --

heathen hump of an american, how much he's eating." just line 'em up my friend. thank you. obrigado. yeah. so nice walking around here. the audio components are really amazing. there's always drums somewhere. [ drumming ]

>> claudio: welcome salvador my friend! >> anthony: oh, good to be here again. >> claudio: yeah? >> mariela: oh, yeah? >> anthony: love it here. >> claudio: paul, please. one cup for you, man. oh come on! welcome to salvador! right? >> anthony: thank you. >> claudio: all right good sip. >> anthony: this is claudio and marilia. it's good to have friends in a place like salvador. in fact, you're pretty much lost without them. >> claudio: cheers! for next stop. >> anthony: right. >> claudio: cool. >> anthony: tuesday night in uh, pelo. >> marilia: yeah. >> claudio: yeah, man. and the tuesday nights are very impressive. many people come to church, first, next going to drinking around, right? try some things, listen to good music, and they come here man. >> anthony: people have to work tomorrow right?

>> marilia: yeah. >> anthony: i guess that's brazil right? >> marilia: yeah, it's brazil but you have this kind of behavior really here, in pelo but not whole city. >> anthony: so how different is salvador from rio and sao paulo? >> claudio: man, salvador is a modern, you know? um. the music here, the kind of life, the attitude. this area is amazing. >> anthony: it is. >> claudio: it's amazing. come here for eat, drink, history, memory, anything. >> anthony: pelourinho, pelo for short, was salvador during the portuguese colonial period. it's almost always a party. a series of parties, actually. but tonight is special. ♪

>> claudio: oh, look at this smell, man. >> anthony: it smells good. >> claudio: yes. >> anthony: oh, that's good. >> marilia: isn't it good? >> anthony: so where to next? >> marilia: go to the stairs. >> anthony: yep. >> claudio: i like to bring you here today because coming here, people everywhere, it is a free party, you can dance, you can drink your beer everywhere, let's go see the show inside. it's amazing. woo! >> claudio: you'll try that! >> anthony: what is it?

>> claudio: it's a -- clove with a mix of, uh, honey, lemon. >> anthony: alcohol? >> claudio: yes. >> anthony: alcohol of unknown origin dispensed from atop the head of a stranger? >> anthony: it's good. >> claudio: that's good? >> anthony: mama always said that was a good idea. >> claudio: welcome to salvador. >> anthony: i don't know if it's the booze or the music or the tropical heat but after a while bouncing from place, to place wandering down old cobblestone streets, different music issuing from everywhere, a different party, people flowing out of buildings, one gathering commingling with another, the music mixing, it really does seem that everybody is moving to some mysterious unknowable pulse. some unheard throb that moves people to constantly touch each other, stroke hips, necks, limbs.

♪ ♪ >> anthony: it is useful to know that of over 12 million africans dragged, ripped, and kidnapped from their homelands, nearly 5 million ended up in brazil. 1.5 million of them in bahia alone. pelourinho became the locus of a vast infrastructure of plantations and the slave trade that powered them. making this city and northeastern brazil, the most opulent in the new world.

pelourinho, it's worth pointing out, gets its name from the whipping post. a hundred years after slavery was outlawed in brazil, pelourinho, had been forgotten. but of course, the neighborhood had its charms. if you were an artist, a musician, a writer, you could afford to live here. cheap rent for long time locals, or shiny new art galleries and hipster cafes. we know which way the current of history runs. ♪

>> anthony: here though, one man stands alone. jayme figura. a poet, sculptor, painter, musician. now perhaps his own greatest artistic creation. he's chosen to hide his face from view. and to stand in opposition. an eyesore, a rebuke -- a defiant, gwar-like embarrassment to the occupiers. as he dresses now, this is for protection but, as i understand, also protest? >> carlos: it's a kind of protest, but also protection. you know?

>> anthony: who's the enemy? >> anthony: everyone. >> carlos: you see faces but not see heart. yeah. >> anthony: how long have, uh, you been wearing the armor? how long? >> carlos: 46 years. >> anthony: 46 years. that was a long time ago. you ever go to the beach? >> carlos: no sun. only shadow, and beer. and no sun. >> anthony: in the darkness. you're goth dude. >> carlos: whiskey and coconut milk. but not sun. no sun. not water, not sun. >> anthony: just down from where we're sitting, jayme's pelourinho studio. his water and power have been shut off. but he insists, he's going nowhere.

>> anthony: brazil is supposed to be about what, music, dancing, sun, hot women, does he reject those things? does he think it's -- that's bull --? >> carlos: he's in the wrong country he tells. i am in the wrong country. >> anthony: where would the perfect place be? >> carlos: the rock city. >> anthony: rock city. that's detroit. >> carlos: detroit. >> anthony: detroit, rock city. what music inspires him? >> jayme: iron maiden. >> anthony: iron maiden. i think they're touring actually. >> jayme: nirvana. >> anthony: nirvana. metallica? >> jayme: beethoven. >> anthony: beethoven. >> jayme: metallica, beethoven. >> anthony: carlos, what do you think about all this? i mean, anybody who comes here, uh, recognizes immediately that this is a really uniquely extraordinary and, despite many

problems, a uniquely wonderful magical place. >> carlos: it's a magical place. but also for us, for me and for him, here is a place where many people, black people have suffered. that is still one kind of comment of this old history here, you know? >> anthony: so what is the real pelourinho? >> carlos: giving life for this. we are the real pelourinho. coms dying again.

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♪ ♪

>> anthony: i don't like piña coladas, but i like walking in the rain. i like wandering through markets as much as the next guy, but what i really like are neurotoxins. in japan they call it fugu. yeah, yeah, yeah. it's eyes, ovaries and internal organs that are just packed full of varying amounts of toxins. and some hysterical ninnies will tell you that the tetrodotoxin present in the blowfish is 1,200 times more potent than cyanide. and they'll tell you how if it's consumed, you remain conscious while your muscles gradually become paralyzed and death, like a slow moving freight train, looms closer and closer. and whatever you do, just make sure you cut out the liver. i say, bull --. >> anthony: so. we're eating blowfish. >> bel: yes. it's an adventure. >> anthony: like the japanese, they like the poison stuff. >> bel: i know, i know, i know, i know, i know, i know. >> anthony: so, do they -- but they remove the liver and the skin and all that? >> bel: they're supposed to be removing properly. >> anthony: right. properly.

right. i saw a "simpsons" episode i think. >> bel: this guy makes it great. >> anthony: poisonous blowfish moqueca recipe. add to said fish -- lemon, coriander, onion, tomato, coconut milk, dende oil, cover, and simmer. i am confident in this cook i don't know. and in this man, bel borba, my host, and an aficionado of this dish. smelling good. >> bel: bon apetite, monsieur. >> anthony: thank you. >> bel: there's a lot of pepper, huh? >> anthony: oh, yeah. good pepper. nice and spicy. i can't feel my legs. is that a bad thing? bel is an artist after all. a very famous one. so he knows about neurotoxins. he comes from a long tradition

of artists who have found inspiration in bahia. is there something about salvador do you think that is conducive to an artistic sensibility? i mean, there's so much color here, and music, and -- >> bel: lights. the light here is beautiful. >> anthony: the light is really special. the buil -- i mean -- just the colors of the city. are amazing. the colors of the people are amazing. and the way they move. >> bel: they move. >> anthony: i don't know, when i first came here, i thought everybody in this city looks like they're -- they just got --, or they're on their way to go --. ♪ so this was like central market back before supermarkets, this is where everybody did their shopping right? >> bel: oh yes, you know what? this is the real brazil here. the real bahia. >> anthony: right. >> bel: this place is the

intestine of the city. they sell shrimps, and stuff here, oils and stuff. this kind of oil. we call dende. palm oil. >> anthony: oh yeah. >> bel: whatev -- however you want to call it. >> anthony: and i love the dende oil. you know, it takes some getting used to. the first time i was here, you know, you eat it, you shit like a mink for hours afterwards. but now, no problems. i've been eating this all week. lovin' it. around your fifth time in brazil you -- >> bel: you are developing resistance, man. oh! now you're as sure as good. >> anthony: aw. there you go, buddy. hope you like spicy. well it's a brazilian cat. it's gotta like spicy. >> bel: oh! [ speaking in portuguese ] >> anthony: a little -- a little cachaça? >> bel: yes! >> anthony: now that'll -- that'll set you right. >> bel: i think now you are protect from the poison.

♪ >> anthony: right. we're -- we're coming up to the world cup. and i think a lot of people are going to be reading about crime, and all of that. how do you think it's going to go, the world cup? disaster? or it's going to somehow work out? >> bel: i think we are successful, yes successful. >> anthony: you think it'll be a success. >> bel: i'm sure. >> anthony: salvador is one of the host cities for the 2014 world cup. a huge stadium has recently been completed but a lot of people are worried, concerned, if brazil is ready. i've been told thousands of prostitutes are studying tourist appropriate languages in preparation. so probably, a lot of people are gonna get laid, a lot of people are gonna get robbed, a lot of people are gonna get laid and robbed. >> bel: have you ever been here in carnival? >> anthony: uh, no.

but that's -- that's -- >> bel: it's the world cup inside carnival. >> anthony: and that works out right? that's not a slaughter fest. >> bel: it's a break. it's a breakfast. >> anthony: right. >> bel: and thing happens, but it works. >> anthony: i think that salvador in particular is a place where no matter, thank you. no matter what, people should come. even people who are afraid to travel, who said, "oh well but i hear --" no! you know what? this is -- live your life, man. come -- you should not miss a place like this. 'cause it's -- there aren't a lot of places in the world that even come close to this. >> bel: look at our food. we are today. i invited you, to have this dish, and we're not really going to die. >> anthony: yeah. i'm pretty sure we're not gonna die. >> bel: we are not born to die. >> anthony: yeah, i'm pretty -- i'm pretty sure mr. muffinstump over here is gonna suddenly jump on me and start clawing my face.

>> bel: oh, oh, she's lighter than us. if the poison was active, she was dead. >> anthony: right. ooh, i didn't think of that. my little, i shall call you canary. >> bel: meanwhile, we are not born for dying. >> anthony: no. ♪ it took joel silverman years to become a master dog trainer. but only a few commands to master depositing checks at chase atms. technology designed for you. so you can easily master the way you bank.

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♪

>> anthony: the bay of all saints, a vast, natural harbor, allowed salvador to prosper. tucked along its shore if you look hard enough, you'll find a small grouping of shacks, roofed and corrugated tin.

♪ this is where a local fisherman's association brings their catch to sell to wholesalers, and then relax after a long day on the water. catch of the day, the prized big red snapper. rub with sea salt, lemon, olive oil. grill over charcoal. enjoy view. so everybody here is fisherman? >> anthony: meet maloca. he's been working as our head of security. and, as for reasons that are immediately obvious, he enjoys respect and reputation on the streets. but he also comes out of this neighborhood, and these guys are his friends. how's business now? i mean, lot of fish out there? fishing business good?

>> anthony: lunch wouldn't be complete without a delicious spicy salsa of garlic, tomato, onions, and peppers. on the side, some deep fried little smelts. don't forget the beer. and the cachaça, and enjoy! >> anthony: very good. yeah that'll work. it looks like a big grouper. >> maloca: big. >> translator: it's a big red fish today. >> translator: i have to advise you that. it's spicy. >> anthony: it's spicy. what's everybody dr -- beer? or a cachaça? >> anthony: both. >> translator: the oldest fisherman from bahia. >> anthony: still working?

>> translator: he works more than -- >> anthony: they use a line or net? >> anthony: hand line. >> translator: just the hand, around the -- the piece of wood, like that, and then -- take the like that. >> anthony: they don't cut the hands? >> translator: always cut their hands. >> anthony: fishing anywhere is hard and the way these guys do it, particularly hard. mostly hand lines from small boats. just look at these hands. you're a hard man. literally.

>> anthony: yeah, that's what i want right here. oh yeah. jackpot. boy that's -- you'll pardon the expression, some good head. >> translator: the fisherman loves the head. >> anthony: oh it's awesome. >> translator: it's the -- the best part for them. >> anthony: oh it's a tuna! lookin' good! you can just throw him right on the barbie. >> anthony: that is good piece of fish. beautiful. ♪

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♪ ♪

♪ >> anthony: in rio if you're anything less than perfectly cut you feel terrible going to the beach. you never want to go to the beach. here, i can frolic in a speedo and feel pretty good about myself. they let it all hang out here. ♪ >> anthony: caipirinha. ah, the caipirinha man, this indispensible icon of brazilian beach culture is known to start with fresh lime, muddle and mash

with more lime juice, sugar, ice, the magic ingredient, cachaça, that's basically the distilled liquor of the sugar cane. shaken, not stirred and you got yourself one of the world's truly great cocktails. the utility beverage good for any time of day or any social occasion. very satisfying. ♪ everyone eats toasted cheese things here. awesome. queijo? if there's anything better than cheese, it's semi-melted cheese. like, what's the best part of french onion soup? it's the little burnt bits of cheese around the edge. obrigado. ahh. oh yeah.

it tastes as good as it looks. ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪

look at this line. these guys are famous. acarajé, i've had it before, i have had it here in fact, these ladies, make it good. really good. the clothes go back to the newly freed slaves who now were able to practice their religion and began selling the acarajé to support the candomblé community. what is acarajé? behold a paste, a batter, a falafel like wad of smushed up black eyed peas seasoned with ground dried shrimp and onions deep fried till crispy and golden and some chili spiked dende oil. already if you're a rookie you're guaranteed some quality time on a porcelain bus real soon. on the top you got your vatapá, which is, sort of, a shrimp

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♪ >> anthony: when millions of africans were taken by force to brazil, the traditions, the musical roots they had, instruments they played, their gods and their food came with them. in the days of slavery you would hide that stuff, whether it was your religion or your self-defense skills. so tell me about capoeira. >> woman: it was a kind of martial art. but in the beginning of 19th century, capoeira became more like a game. and the music instruments were associated to the fight. ♪

>> anthony: no hands. right? all feet and head? why no hands? >> woman: we use the hands in -- in just a few movements. >> anthony: where did that come from and why do you think that became --? >> woman: some people say that this is inspired by the animal movements. >> anthony: in a recent study observing the comparative destructive power between kicks from various martial arts of karate, muay thai, and taekwondo, it was capoeira that packed the most ferocious impact. the colonial masters knew this and made it illegal for much of brazil's history. today mestres like jonja and paulina teach capoeira in classrooms and on stages. originally it was a male-dominated activity. when did that change? >> woman: since the '60s. mestre jonja, me, we start out our process in the beginning of the '80s.

and nowadays we have hundreds of women practicing capoeira, yeah. >> anthony: hundreds. what was it like in the beginning? the very first women who did it? >> woman: mothers or fathers or the family, you know, said that, "well, capoeira's not for women, why you decide to do this?" >> anthony: afro-brazilian cuisine is the result of many, many years of cooks experimenting with african and portuguese dishes combined with local ingredients like seafood, chilies, coconut milk. this is angelica's house, open one day a week as a restaurant serving her unique style of bahian dishes. beautiful! wow look at that. >> woman: it looks very good. [ speaking in portuguese ] >> anthony: how has being a master of capoeira -- how has that changed the rest of your life? >> woman: i think it changed a lot. women in general, they don't learn to fight.

learning how to be involved in real fights, game and fight at the same time, we became more prepared to be involved with the symbolic fight. and, in our society, the women, they are not so well prepared like men. ♪ >> anthony: it was purely african in the beginning, and now it's afro-brazilian form? is that correct? >> woman: all the instruments are african instruments. >> anthony: right. they're singing. a lot of singing, and it's important. >> woman: yeah, yeah. and in portuguese. but we in our group, and in capoeira angola, we start to include music from other cultural, african cultural traditions, including lyrics in african languages. ♪ >> anthony: of all of the things that we look at as brazilian, from outside looking in, the

cuisine, samba, all of these things are very african in origin. this is kind of where that all started. yes? i mean, i want to say it's the real brazil. everyone looks at rio as the postcard brazil. but here it's really -- you feel it. those things. >> woman: it has to do with this big concentration of africans. since the beginning of the city, it's different.

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>> anthony: if, say, you found yourself in brazil and had the chance to hire a boat, head for the beach with a bunch of new friends, bring along a skilled mixologist expertly trained in the fine arts of caipirinhamaking, why wouldn't you? charge across the water headed for a nice quiet island. order up some sun to come up behind some dark clouds right about now? about now? sometimes cliches are cliches for a reason because they are good ideas to start with, which is why people keep looking for them and doing them over and over. ♪

♪ in a perfect world upon reaching said enchanted island you jump into the warm atlantic waters and, if you could, you'd have a classic soundtrack to this adventure like samba for instance. splash around for a while maybe enjoy a nice cold beer or two. you truly have not taken a beach, until a man has set up the caipirinha station. then, you know, the lz is secure. i love nature.

and caipirinhas. whoa! what's going on here? caipirinha! please. sweet! this alone is an argument for the greatness of this country. and what goes great with some caipirinhas on the beach? how 'bout some barbeque? ♪ you eat it with shell here, by the way. unless i'm mistaken. "please, morrissey. don't eat me. look in your heart. don't eat me. oh no. oh, not my head. oh." to complete the picture, maybe a large fish?

maybe some crab? you know anytime you get your chinese, your brazilians and your italians, all agreeing on something, it's pretty clear it's a really good idea. everybody agrees that this complicated-looking creature with all those troublesome shells is worth the work. so you tear off the little limbs. we'll get to you later, my friends. rip out the tail. these little lungs, you don't want them. now you got all this nice fat in there. oh yeah. now we're getting to the claw. look at that. that's poking out of there. oh yeah. push it through that little nubbin of goodness. like a celestial nipple. when people started demanding boneless stuff like chicken without a bone, or crabmeat without the actual crab? or lazy lobster? that was the beginning of the erosion of our society, as we know it.

if you're not willing to work for a payoff like this, how do you expect us to, like, fight al qaeda if you can't suck the meat out of a crab. good character builder. and delicious. and if your perfect day really did happen, you'd probably let yourself be swept away. by liquor and good food, and gin clear water while all around you horny brazilians casually fondle each other, get all dozy and fall asleep. ♪

>> anthony: mexico is a country where every day people fight to live. all too often, they lose that battle. a magnificent, heartbreakingly beautiful country. with music and food, and a uniquely mexican, darkly funny, deeply f wor