[ speaking foreign language ]. ♪ >> man: when i was a kid, my grandparents teach that there

are some people who live in madagascar before. they were very little people and they live in forest and they respect the environment. but then come many people from other countries. from africa, from asia, spain, from france. many of us don't know their history. ♪ i took a walk through this beautiful world ♪ ♪ felt the cool rain on my shoulder ♪

♪ found something good in this beautiful world ♪ ♪ i felt the rain getting colder ♪ ♪ sha la la la la sha la la la la la ♪ ♪ sha la la la la sha la la la la la la ♪ ♪ ♪

♪ >> darren: salama. park it. ♪ >> anthony: over the years i've let a lot of extraordinary landscapes recede into a blur outside my windows. i've looked, maybe seen, maybe noticed, then gone.

we all carry different experiences inside us. we see things differently, don't we? madagascar. exotic unspoiled paradise? or microcosm for the end of times? antananarivo -- tana for short. madagascar's crowded, chaotic capital city. how are you doing man? base camp. >> darren: wow, that's quite a rain. i don't know. i'm not sure i can be, uh, in front of the camera. [ laughter ] >> anthony: yeah, just ignore 'em. >> darren: i'm so used to, like, controlling everything. >> anthony: darren aronofsky -- director of the films "pi,"

"requiem for a dream," "the wrestler," "black swan," and, as it would turn out, sort of appropriate to our location, "noah." he asks me if he could go along on a trip with us. i said, "where do you want to go?" so, madagascar. i knew almost nothing about it. i knew it was an animated film that i've seen many times with my daughter. >> darren: i guess it's one of the more extreme distant places that you hear about that you know you'll never go to unless something really weird summons you, and you're sort of that weird force. >> anthony: we're on an island in the indian ocean. >> darren: right. >> anthony: with this amazing ethnic mix. incredible landscape. something like 80% of the animals here don't exist anywhere else. >> darren: what does it mean when an ecosystem goes out of balance? what is the blowback? here you can see the blowback, you know? people have been chopping down the forest. now suddenly you don't have soil

anymore and you can't grow anything anymore. it's just a really -- situation. there we go. there we go. >> anthony: an important question since we're just getting to know each other. now, you are a vegetarian? >> darren: yes, and it just sort of happened with the release of "noah." in scripture he is a vegetarian, as was adam and eve. humans weren't given permission to eat the animals till after the flood. >> anthony: all right, well we'll see who's doing better at the end of these ten days. a little social experiment here. madagascar was settled, best we can tell, around 700 a.d. by people from what is now indonesia. later, by africans. in 1895 the french took it, killed off a substantial number of people in the process, and as they do, left behind beautiful

buildings and the french language. when independence came in 1960, it was sudden and ill prepared for. continuing political incompetence has left most of madagascar's 22 million people living on less than $2 a day. do you know this place? do you eat -- have you been here? >> rossy: yes, wednesday, saturday to go out before going to nightclub. go to look's. >> anthony: first meal in country and i suggested this place. i thought it would be perfect, darren being a vegetarian and all. this is what you call being passive aggressive, i think. so what's good here? >> rossy: look's pork. >> anthony: right. pork, my favorite vegetable.

>> rossy: just the head of the pork. >> anthony: sounds good. >> rossy: yeah. >> darren: i'm not going to have look's. i'm going to go just with vegetables. beans and, uh -- >> rossy: you don't want to taste it? >> darren: no, i'm not going to taste a pig head, not today. this is going to be fun. the torture of darren. >> rossy: mmm, you have the look's. always take it with beans. >> anthony: rossy, the famous musician here, is, after a period out of favor with the previous government, back home and elected to parliament. >> rossy: and this is, i think, ravitoto. >> darren: leaves. >> rossy: the leaves are from manioc. >> darren: oh, great. there we go. >> rossy: mmm. [ laughter ] >> darren: that's excellent. >> anthony: so, these days, what are the big issues that are not being taken care of? >> rossy: poverty and not enough education.

we are very rich, you know? we have oil, we have -- but our political leaders, most of the time, are crook. >> darren: how much does, uh, the environmental issues matter to the people? or is it just about survival? >> rossy: they don't care. the international communities, they paid a lot of money to protect the forest. you protect the monkey. you don't protect the people. i eat the monkey. if i'm hungry i eat them. they don't care about if the world is going more and more warm. >> darren: yeah, climate change. >> rossy: yeah, okay, it's warm. okay, it's warm. you're going to die, yes? okay, you're going to die. that's life. for them just normal. >> anthony: a lot of people feel that the future should be ecotourism. that they should essentially be working in hotels and restaurants for tourists. >> rossy: yeah. >> anthony: that's kind of a return to colonialism, isn't it? >> rossy: that's it. exactly.

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♪ ♪ >> anna: tell me what you think of this? >> anthony: yeah, i'm looking forward to this. it's a very famous dish. >> anna: mm-hmm. >> anthony: goose. >> anna: goose and the --

and this varenga which is shredded meat. >> anthony: very cool. there's always someplace where the flame is kept burning. history kept alive, however faintly. >> anna: this is the stuffing. >> anthony: these days in madagascar's capital city, it's left to mariette. >> mariette: delicious. >> anna: the epitome of the cooking and the cuisine of this region is the way mariette cooks it. ♪ [ laughter ] ♪ ♪ you are ♪ you are like the sweet perfect blues ♪

>> anthony: during the colonial period, mariette was a frequent culinary ambassador. ♪ you are you are like the scent on my skin ♪ >> mariette: harry belafonte. >> anthony: the go-to chef for visiting presidents and royalty. >> mariette: prince albert of monaco. [ laughter ] >> anthony: the success story, her mansion high atop haute ville, the former neighborhood of choice for aristocrats and colonizers alike. ♪ on the silk of your lips ♪ where mine readily sit >> anthony: though semi-retired, mariette continues to entertain guests from time to time. >> anna: so this is broth with chicken and ginger. >> anthony: these dishes marry mostly disappeared malagasy royal cuisine with the techniques and training of classical french. so, moisten the rice with the

broth? >> anna: exactly, with the broth. >> anthony: wow, look at this. >> anna: this is a vegetable lasary. lasary is one of the side dishes, it's like a salad. >> anthony: mm-hmm. >> darren: cauliflower, carrot. >> anna: mm-hmm. string beans. most malagasy don't eat meat at every meal because it's expensive. most malagasy will eat rice, broth with vegetables, and that's it. meat once a week. >> darren: i could do fine here. >> anna: yeah you'd do fine here. yes, absolutely. >> anthony: this is a country that is very rich in natural resources. >> anna: madagascar, we have a lot of things that a lot of people want. like, for example, the trafficking of rosewood. prospecting for oil, for gas. and then don't even leave anything for the rest of the country. this is an island paradise. >> darren: and it's disappearing very, very quickly. >> anna: a lot of our forests have been burned down because people don't have land on which to grow their crops. >> anthony: the best-case scenario that everybody seems to raise is "eco-tourism will save the day."

the local people will be, what? cleaning rooms, cooking. >> anna: they'll be the waiters, yeah absolutely. >> anthony: and performing, traditional ethnic dances. >> anna: yeah, absolutely. >> anthony: to me this is not an ideal option and we see it -- >> darren: what's an ideal option, though? ♪ >> anthony: heading south from tana, it's a very different country out there. where rice is the difference between life and death. ♪ [ dog barking ]

between the traditional slash and burn agriculture that's existed here since this island was first settled and the imperative of charcoal as heat source, 90% of the forest and jungles that covered madagascar are gone. ♪ >> darren: anything? >> patricia: not yet.

they're very elusive. they're very difficult to see. >> anthony: thanks largely to the work of dr. patricia wright over 40,000 hectares of forest have been set aside and protected for the creation of ranomafana national park. her recently completed research station is a state-of-the-art complex that reminds one of that cynical spielberg franchise. what was it? jurassic, uh -- jurassic merch? >> patricia: here he is, he's right next to me, can you see him? >> darren: right here. >> anthony: oh wow. >> patricia: oh, he's really right next to me. hello. >> anthony: the area provides essential habitat for the golden bamboo lemur. a species dr. wright discovered here in 1986. and the greater bamboo lemur, previously thought extinct. >> patricia: there's only 500 of these in the wild in the whole world. >> anthony: wow, really? what's the biggest pressure on the population? >> patricia: slash and burn agriculture. some places they're hunted. >> darren: here, no, this guy. >> patricia: oh.

he is, oh, look at it. oh, beautiful. oh, that's so nice. oh. >> darren: whoa. he's pissing on you, tom. he's taking a leak right now. >> patricia: yeah, watch. >> anthony: hopefully it's not an editorial statement. >> darren: yeah. [ laughter ] >> patricia: look, this is the kind of bamboo shoot that the lemurs love. it's full of protein and it's full of cyanide. >> anthony: is the cyanide not a problem for them? >> patricia: they can tolerate all kinds of cyanide. the cyanide comes straight through in the, uh, poop. >> darren: do they know how they get it through their system? >> patricia: we're working on that. >> darren: okay. what is the dew on the outside of it? just dew? >> patricia: ah, careful. >> darren: oh don't touch. >> patricia: how's your finger feeling? >> darren: it felt a little sharp, but like a fuzzy sharpness, but then it didn't -- >> patricia: yeah, a fuzzy

sharpness. you just wait a bit. >> anthony: yeah, it's like fiberglass. >> darren: are you serious? >> patricia: it's just like fiberglass, actually. >> anthony: yeah, you leave little, little, tiny, tiny little shards. >> darren: but if i lick my finger, am i going to die? >> patricia: probably. >> darren: are you serious? can it go through the skin now that i touched it? >> patricia: no, you'd have to eat it. >> darren: okay. >> anthony: hopes for "black swan 2: the revenge" were dashed today. >> darren: yeah. one right above you. >> anthony: has the film "madagascar" been good for the lemur business? >> darren: there you go. >> patricia: i think the cartoon really woke up the world to the fact that there was a place called madagascar, although many people think that it doesn't really exist. >> darren: so what do you think happens? how hard is it to maintain the forest? >> patricia: it's incredibly hard, you know? we've been working with the villagers around the park and i think they really do understand the value of these extraordinary lemurs and the value of the forest. the economic value of tourism is tremendous for this country.

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>> anthony: the boundaries of ranomafana park protect what they can of madagascar's rapidly diminishing rain forest. but it's not all about lemurs and rare species and unspoiled beautiful places.

>> patricia: these are the tanala people. these are the people of the forest. this is the fifth time they've had to change the location of the village because they do slash and burn agriculture. this ceremony today is a ceremony to celebrate the fact the 17 people from the village are going to donate their land to conservation. it won't be cut down. ♪ >> man: that's the zebu. >> anthony: before the tanala land can officially become a part of the park the gods, the ancestors, somebody must be appeased. and that, as it often does,

means something must die. seen this a lot? >> patricia: i usually don't go when this is happening. >> darren: wow. >> anthony: for someone with as dark a worldview, judging from his films anyway, as the newly vegetarian mr. aronofsky, he seems unusually uncomfortable with the bleeding realities of local custom. >> darren: you see him? >> anthony: preferring instead to trip the light fantastic in the rainforest idyll. ♪

♪ ♪ >> anthony: how do you make the argument that it is in your interest to protect an area of forest when the forest means

fuel, food -- >> patricia: what we've had to do, of course, is make their lives better in exchange. health projects, education projects, tourism. many of the people work as tour guides. they work in the hotels. they have work. they didn't have any work when they got here. but also the benefits of researchers. we hire 85 people full-time. the director of the ranomafana national park. where is your village that you lived in here when you were a little girl? so that's on one side of the park. ♪ >> anthony: the ancestors

presumably okay with the land transfer, it's time to party. dr. wright worked hard to establish ranomafana park with the stated aim of protecting the absolutely unique flora and fauna here. and reducing human pressures on the area. this, however, is the face of human pressure. just so we're clear. >> darren: hey, take care guys. ♪

we're right on the edge of the park. >> anthony: wow. >> darren: and, uh, right on the edge, literally, is where they built the power lines and they're slashing and burning. we were trying for landscapes like this in "noah." >> anthony: sort of a cormac mccarthy post-apocalyptic wasteland thing going on, right? >> darren: "the road." >> anthony: look, all the original fauna and flora in new york city and chicago and detroit and los angeles are gone. we don't feel too guilty about that. >> darren: that's the old argument, though, of all these developing countries is, "you did it." but didn't they teach us that in, uh, third grade? two wrongs don't make a right. go on a first date. my passion is puppetry. here? i think we're done here.

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welding on? >> anthony: uh, oil pan. most of madagascar's french-built rail network has crumbled into nothingness. but this train still runs. >> darren: look how it's painted, the others aren't painted. >> anthony: first class. >> darren: yeah, yeah, yeah. >> anthony: we ride in style. how old is this train?

wow, it works. >> darren: oil pan worked. >> anthony: i hope that's not a pitying look i see on some of their faces. they're all looking at us like. ♪ it's 163 kilometers to the one-time major port town of manakara. it's both the greatest thing ever, meaning a fantastically scenic immersion into parts of madagascar that most visitors never get to see, and an at times a punishing crawl. for the majority of the 17 station stops along the line this train provides the only connection to the outside world.

people hop off and on, load and unload fruit, lychees, bananas, while the few foreigners on board watch. >> darren: can we get some peanuts? thank you. >> anthony: and there are vendors selling food and drink which is increasingly a necessity as the supposed eight-hour trip is said to sometimes approach 18. >> darren: all right, so we got a shaker. we got an umbrella. champagne, rum. you let the, uh, train pour for you. >> anthony: right. >> darren: this is the lychee. >> anthony: oh, that, that smells good. >> darren: yeah. >> anthony: darren woke early and hit the hotel kitchen to make the necessary fresh lychee puree for festive cocktails.

well. >> darren: hey, wait, wait, wait, wait. all righty. >> anthony: oh yes. it's not bad. it's not bad at all. >> darren: okay, nice summery drink. >> anthony: the lychee makes it. >> darren: the lychee makes it, yeah. >> anthony: what are we calling this? >> darren: um -- >> anthony: the golden lemur would be good. >> darren: the golden lemur. ♪ >> anthony: flashes of everyday life. the struggle to live, to eat, viewed from a moving train, then gone.

>> darren: in its plumes of different areas of madagascar burning. everywhere you can see. >> anthony: after seven hours or so -- >> darren: yeah, we're coming into a town. >> anthony: the imperatives of food, any food, become more urgent. this is it, this is the food stop. i'm starving. >> darren: i am so with you. look, this kid's wearing a banana like a yamaka. >> anthony: the wonderland of fresh papaya salads along with tasty train station treats we were told would be here, well, it's somewhat sub-optimal. >> darren: little did i know there would be a feeding frenzy. there's no papaya salad, everything's gone, dude. oh, here's some bananas. >> anthony: yeah, two of those. >> darren: two of those, merci.

>> anthony: we get what we can. man, it's quite a scene. >> darren: it's pretty, yeah, it's pretty insane. >> anthony: it's hard to complain about the lack of food options if you look around. >> darren: lots of kids, want that? all right. yeah, it's hard. >> anthony: wow, this is nice. >> darren: oh, this is the way to travel. until like, uh, a palm leaf comes flying in. watch it, watch it, watch it. ♪

♪ ♪

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>> anthony: this is what it's like to wake up at the end of the world. beyond here to the east, nothing but thousands of miles of indian ocean. morning, and fishermen return with their catch. ♪

you felt how wobbly that boat was coming over. >> darren: yes. >> anthony: imagine going out into the serious chop with that thing and fishing. manakara was a major port back in the days, a transportation hub. but now it's a sleepy beach town. that is a disturbingly large spider. i would be unhappy if i saw that coming across my pillow. >> darren: ah! >> anthony: dude, it's a chicken. >> darren: i know, i'm just we're talking about spiders and a chicken jumped at me. >> anthony: hey, that lobster's smelling good. >> darren: no, they're disgusting. they're like giant insects walking and what do they eat? what do they eat? >> anthony: corpses. >> darren: corpses. >> anthony: dead things. >> darren: right. >> anthony: you are such a debbie downer. [ laughter ] >> darren: i'm just, no i'm -- >> anthony: you are such a downer. ♪

>> darren: you were born here and your parents are from here. >> jonah: from here. he's a fisherman. >> darren: how far out do they go out? >> jonah: about 50 miles sometimes. >> anthony: he goes out 50 miles? >> jonah: yes. >> anthony: in the little -- >> darren: in the canoe? >> jonah: in the canoe, yes. every day. every day. >> anthony: oh, awesome. >> jonah: this is a typical dish. green leaves, eggplant, some spices, then the zebu meat. >> anthony: it should be pointed out we bought a lot of food. this sort of spread is not an everyday meal in these parts. ah, there's your veggie platter. >> darren: beautiful. >> anthony: there you go, man. >> jonah: now we have, uh, piece of a shark. he says that before 2000, more fishes but since then -- >> anthony: smaller fish? >> jonah: smaller fish and the

quantity as well, smaller. >> anthony: there you go dude, oh, that's a papaya thing. >> darren: that's a papaya salad. >> anthony: yeah, yeah, yeah. it's one of those days where the artifice of making television threatens to move dangerously into cruelty. what are you guys eating over here? who gets to eat, and when, becomes a pressing concern to the two of us. >> darren: can we get the kids eating? can we hand out the food? >> jonah: uh, in a local village like this -- >> anthony: uh-huh. >> jonah: first ladies serve the men. >> anthony: right. >> jonah: and then the kids, they will eat later. >> anthony: yeah, right. >> jonah: because it's like a custom. >> anthony: i gotcha. it may not be our system but it's a system. the kids are getting ready for theirs over there. and it becomes clear that that yes, everybody will eat. >> darren: there we go. >> anthony: come to daddy. oh, that's good, dude. you picked a bad time to become a vegetarian, you really did.

oh man, the food is amazing. there's some really good cooks at work here today. i mean, really amazing. ♪ and then the music starts, and the dancing. and as so often happens, the not-so-spontaneous made for tv party becomes a real party. ♪ we all, for a little while anyway, forget about where we came from and where we might be tomorrow. ♪

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praise the lord! you are blessed today, amen! hallelujah. >> group: hallelujah. >> preacher: the book of revelation say that what if ever we do god can see and he take not. i will destroy this city because all of the people are sinner. amen. hallelujah. >> group: hallelujah. >> preacher: hallelujah, hallelujah. >> group: hallelujah. >> anthony: the camera is a liar. it shows everything, it shows nothing. it reveals only what we want. often what we see is seen only from a window moving past, then

gone. one window. my window. if you'd been here chances are you would've seen things differently. whoa. >> darren: whoa. >> anthony: you've lived it now. looking back, if you were editing this show, how would you tell this story? >> darren: uh. >> anthony: this is it, this is the food stop. i am starving. >> darren: i am so with you. [ shouting ] >> anthony: that is quite a scene. >> darren: lots of kids. you want that? >> anthony: uh, uh, uh.

this is really -- up here. >> darren: you always want a simple answer to everything to make it all make sense and it seems to -- i don't know, it's just constantly surprising. >> preacher: what can you see everywhere you go? in the office, in the market. people are still making sin. >> darren: as a kid i always wondered if i was good enough to get on the ark. so i always, sort of, empathized with the people who didn't make it. >> preacher: god make all of the animals come inside the big ship. and all of the people are dead. but what family are saved? here is our ship. >> darren: god decides to destroy creation ten generations

after he created everything, so it must have hurt tremendously. >> preacher: god will choose us, like he choose noah. he saved noah, he protect noah. he will send a storm. hallelujah. >> group: hallelujah. ♪ >> preacher: pray for madagascar. pray for yourself. pray for your family. pray! ♪ god will save madagascar.

♪ -- captions by vitac -- www.vitac.com ♪ ♪