♪ >> anthony: what does it mean to be strong? it implies hardness, inflexibility. okinawa is a place with a fighting tradition. a history of ferocious resistance. but it's nothing like what you might think. not at all. ♪ i took a walk through this beautiful world ♪ ♪ felt the cool rain on my shoulder ♪ ♪ found something good

in this beautiful world ♪ ♪ i felt the rain getting colder ♪ ♪ sha la la la la sha la la la la la ♪ ♪ sha la la la la sha la la la la la la ♪ ♪ ♪ >> anthony: this is okinawa, just south of mainland japan. for all the relative rigidity of the mainland, okinawa answers in its own unique way. don't eat the same thing each day. that's boring. there's even an okinawan term for it. chanpuru, something mixed. bits borrowed from all over

served up for anyone to eat. but maybe you're more familiar with the name okinawa from this. as the setting for some of the most horrifyingly bloody battles of the second world war. how horrifying? for the allies there were more than 50,000 casualties with around 12,000 killed, or missing in action, over nearly three months of fighting. more than 100,000 japanese soldiers and okinawan conscripts were killed defending the island. civilians were stuck in the middle of the two armies and got crushed. no one will know for sure, but historians estimate 150,000 men, women, and children lost their lives during the battle. what most don't know is that okinawa had only become japan fairly recently. that to a great extent, okinawans didn't even consider themselves really japanese or vice-versa. that okinawans and japanese considered themselves to be different ethnicities, spoke two

different languages, and culturally, culinary, and in many other ways, looked in different directions. yet, okinawans were asked to make the ultimate sacrifice, and they did. that's not just ancient history. it informs the present still. okinawa is the largest of over 100 islands making up the ryukyu island chain. it's just over 300 miles from the mainland but worlds apart. okinawa is different. it's tropical. clear waters, some of the best beaches in asia, to the decidedly more laidback, less frenetic, self-serious attitude than the mainland. you can feel it. you can see it. it's just different here.

two thousand pounds of heavily muscled beef enters the arena. you could feel the ground shake under its heavy hooves. his opponent awaits. togi, also known as ushi-zumo. sumo, yes, but bull sumo. these are professionals and, like jake lamotta and chuck wepner before them, they shall live to fight, or do other stuff, another day. having shed decidedly less blood than either of those two gentlemen. two animals, two handlers. and they do, like, the burgess meredith job in rocky. and like fighters, or sumo, the

bulls are ranked by their ability. their record in the ring, the highest being yokozuna. this is kenny aiman. he lives up the road. is there a time limit or they just go till somebody gives up? >> kenny: i think they pretty much go until somebody gives up and when it gets around the -- >> anthony: tthere's no point system here. >> kenny: no, no, there's no point system. basically when the other one turns around and runs away, that's the winner. a few times one bull will actually get around to the side and actually be able to flip the bull over. >> anthony: right, and winner and loser survive, both. >> kenny: once in a while you'll have injuries but most of the time the bulls go home and -- >> anthony: they go home to be happy. >> kenny: they do. >> anthony: nobody's turned into steak or culets. >> kenny: no. >> anthony: togi started as early as the 17th century with farmers pinning bull against bull. they love it in agricultural communities like this so much so that it was briefly banned in some places because farmers were spending too much time at the fights. and not enough time growing sugar cane. like cus d'amato and the young tyson their handlers raised these beasts from calves. caring for them on one hand and training them, conditioning them

to be monsters in the ring, on the other. oh! >> kenny: oh, oh, oh, oh! >> anthony: damn, does one wager on this? >> kenny: i guess the, uh, the official answer would be that gambling's illegal in japan. >> anthony: intermission. time for a corndog, some funnel cake, curly fries? no. better, much better. yakitori, yes, they have that. but when in okinawa do as the okinawans do, yakisoba. start with pork belly, as one always should. some hacked up sausage, cabbage, carrots, fry that stuff up on the griddle, add some chukamen noodles and sauce, soy, mirin, brown sugar, vinegar, and a bit

of sake. topped with seaweed powder, some pickled ginger garnish, and eat. now. oh, he looks aggressive. oh yeah. >> kenny: oh, he's ready to go. this guy i think is gonna win this one. >> anthony: all right, well, we haven't seen his opponent. oh yeah. my money's on him. el aggressor. ♪ ♪

pretty decisive winner there. i'm not accusing anybody of gambling but, uh -- i see some money changing hands. he can do it, i can do it, damn it. ♪ ♪ >> anthony: if you're looking for sushi or kaiseki or ramen you will, of course, find them in okinawa. but what you need to know, what you must know, is that in okinawa pork is king. okay, they got tofu too. here at urizun they do specifically okinawan food, the okinawan way. >> kenny: hai, arigatou. this is the tofuyo, which -- >> anthony: okay. >> kenny: you just eat a little at a time. >> anthony: is that that strong? >> kenny: it is a little strong, yeah. it has, like, a cheese type of texture. >> anthony: it's good. >> kenny: not bad, right? >> anthony: it is like blue

cheese. ah, pork belly? >> kenny: yes. >> anthony: okinawans love pork. every part of the magical animal, the pig. at urizun, the pork belly is slowly cooked in stock heavily infused with bonito flakes and awamori. the ears are simmered until tender. thinly sliced, and dressed in rice wine vinaigrette. and the ribs, after brining in sake and seasonings, are slowly roasted. so you grew up in new jersey. how did you find your way to okinawa? >> kenny: well, my mom, my mom was from here, my dad was in the navy. he was stationed here, met my mom, and wound up back in new jersey. because that's where my dad was from, patterson. and i was born and raised there. uh, the school i went to it was

predominately caucasian kids. there wasn't many asian-americans at all. >> anthony: right. >> kenny: and, i always had this, kinda like, identity complex. there would be, like, times where people would come to the house. they'd say, "oh, where's your mom from? is she from china?" >> anthony: oh god, yeah, right. >> kenny: yeah, open the refrigerator, and there'd be some weird food. you know? "hey, what's that? what are you eating?" and every time i heard that i was like, "wow, am i, like, am i different?" and also one day my mom says, "we're going back to okinawa on a family trip." i was 17 years old. >> anthony: and you'd never been up to that point? >> kenny: no, but when i got off the plane, i don't know what it was, it was, like, "i'm here. this is my home." being able to connect with my heritage i felt something. i was like, "wow, i belong here." >> anthony: how about the food? what was in that refrigerator? because i know a lot of kids, who grew up with that same sort of, uh, uncertainty when they

brought their friends home from school to their house and opened their refrigerator. you know if kimchi or cabbage or fish sauce. they were aware of it when they visited their friends, and they were acutely uncomfortable with it when their friends came over. man, have things changed as far as attitudes. i mean, pretty much the engine of the new american cuisine are kids with childhoods like yours. and i don't mean just what's hip, what's the next new thing. i mean, literally redefining what is american cuisine. let's put it this way. the central irony of this story is that, you know, your mom would have been, like, hipster hero of new jersey now. hey pal? you ready?

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archival newscaster: still another american invasion in the pacific. the objective is okinawa, one of the ring of island fortresses

protecting japan 300 miles away. >> anthony: on april 1, 1945 a u.s. invasion fleet of nearly 1,500 ships. a landing force of 182,000 people. that's 75,000 more than normandy, approached okinawa. what came next was what okinawans called a "typhoon of steel." ♪ ♪ having island hopped across the pacific, allied forces saw okinawa as a key base for fleet anchorage, troop staging, and air operations for the final push into the japanese mainland and victory. the fighting was brutal for both sides. the cost in lives and resources for the allied forces was tremendous. and when it was over, military planners looked at the mainland, looked at what okinawa had cost them, and projected even more appalling losses.

what came next, we all know. what is not widely known is that more people died during the battle of okinawa than all those killed during the atomic bombings of hiroshima and nagasaki. >> anthony: right. >> masahide: so that they had to keep the u.s. military forces as long as possible in okinawa. so that they could prepare defense to protect mainland japan, you know? so, ever since that battle of okinawa. okinawan people say we were sort of, uh, what do you call it? >> anthony: sacrificed? >> masahide: yes, mm-hmm. >> anthony: masahide ota is a former governor of okinawa.

in 1945 he was a young conscript in the japanese imperial army. he fought hard and bravely against the allies until he saw japanese soldiers murdering okinawans for food and water. and his faith melted away. gettouan is a private home turned restaurant. serving very traditional okinawan dishes. in honor of their outspoken former governor the restaurant has prepared a dish typically served to royals and v.i.ps in what was once the ryukyu kingdom. it's called tundabun, after the lacquered dish the multi bite-sized portions are presented in. >> masahide: let's eat. >> anthony: that's very good. there's some squid. swordfish wrapped in seaweed and simmered in stock in fermented sake. dried sea snake wrapped in kombu and slow simmered.

burdock root wrapped in pork loin and slow cooked in katsuo stock. okinawan taro flash fried then dressed with sugar and soy. and pork shoulder, dredged in black sesame, then steamed. you have described, uh, that, uh, you were shocked and surprised to see the -- the japanese soldiers, their treatment of okinawans was not good during the, uh, the battle. >> masahide: and, if you use the

okinawan language, you will be killed as a spy, you know? >> anthony: right. >> masahide: but the okinawan people could not understand standard language, you know? so, the japanese forces killed lots of local people, you know? >> anthony: particularly given, uh, the experience of the war, how japanese do you think most people feel here? >> masahide: there's a fundamental difference between japanese culture and okinawan culture. japanese culture is warrior culture. but okinawan culture is absence

of militarism. okinawan people are happy-go-lucky people. >> anthony: do you think that easy going, um, that reputation, that tradition of, uh, being happy-go-lucky. do you think that this has led to okinawans being taken advantage of? i mean, for instance, uh, the u.s. military bases. okinawa is 1% of the landmass of japan, and yet what percentage of the military bases are here on okinawa? almost all of them. okinawa seems to be asked to make a lot of sacrifices, uh, for the mainland. will that ever stop? >> masahide: you are talking about nimby. >> anthony: not in my backyard? >> masahide: yes, yes. 467 horsepower?e go wite ...or is a 423 enough? good question. you ask a lot of good questions... i think we should move you into our new fund. sure... ok. but are you asking enough about how your wealth is managed? wealth management at charles schwab. we stop arthritis pain, so you don't have to stop. because you believe in go.

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>> anthony: for a place with as bloody a history, okinawa is today, noticeably more laid back than the mainland. but that does not mean everybody's forgotten their warrior traditions. when the feudal satsuma empire from the mainland invaded okinawa in 1609, they banned the carrying, manufacture, or use of weapons of any kind. the ban was later reinforced in 1879 when japan formally annexed the island. it is believed that these prohibitions led directly to the development of a new style of martial art. indisputably born in okinawa, karate, or, empty hands technique. ♪

♪ and it's even more vicious cousin. a form that uses farm and fishing tools to lethal effect. hard and soft, balance. for everything soft, there must be something hard. goju-ryu is one of the main traditional styles of karate, featuring a combination of hard and soft techniques. go means hard linear attacks, closed hand strikes, and kicks. ju, means soft open hand circular, blocking, sweeping and take down movements. sensei tetsuhiro hokama, is a legendary master of goju-ryu. people come from all over the world to study at his dojo, and the training they get is hardcore. ♪

♪ i've been invited to watch hokama sensei's students warm up. let me repeat, this is only the warm up. that does not look like fun. the exercises are designed to repeatedly punish your hands and feet. building up stronger, larger, more protective deposits around the bones. basically weaponizing even your weakest and smallest extremities. and it hurts even to watch. brutal. >> james: it's bad, it's bad. >> anthony: james pankiewicz, brit and black belt in shorin-ryu karate, moved to okinawa in 2009 to study budo, or "the way of martial arts." he acts as translator for most

of the karate sensei on the island. earlier i met james and hokama sensei in makishi public market in okinawa's largest city, naha. >> james: that's the tasty one, right, we'll take that one. >> anthony: and what are these? >> james: so these are puffer fish. so, we got some -- they're gonna do some deep-fried fish for us. >> anthony: gurukun, the unofficial national fish of okinawa. and porcupine fish, both battered and deep-fried. >> james: we're gonna do sashimi. >> anthony: okinawans eat just about any kind of fish sashimi style. for us, snapper and parrotfish. >> james: and lobster. >> anthony: because one must. served raw and still twitching in the shell. >> james: and we're gonna get some sea grapes as well. >> anthony: oh good, good, that's, uh, super traditional. sea grapes, the classic regional side dish dressed in rice vinegar. what you buy downstairs from vendors.

for a small fee, restaurants will cook it for you upstairs. >> james: wow. >> group: oh my god. happy? >> anthony: wow. so, okinawa's most famous export, perhaps, is karate. >> hokama: uh-huh. >> anthony: when most of us think of karate we think of striking exclusively. is that an accurate representation of what you're doing? >> james: the basis of okinawan karate is that it was used primarily as a defensive art. um, in other words, being able to, you know, control and subdue the opponent. usually, if you could, in a humane way, but then if you had to -- >> anthony: right. >> james: finish them then you had the ability to finish them. the striking is important but a

lot of the technique is not about striking, it's about submission techniques. and some of that is to do with kyusho, so, attacking nerve points. and, uh, hokama sensei in particular is extremely skilled at, um, dealing with, uh, you know, bigger stronger, opponents. >> hokama: human engineering, very important. point, point, point, point, point, point, point, point, point. then this point attack with the fingers. no, no knuckle, open. >> anthony: a demonstration of hokama sensei's open hand kyusho technique becomes little too real for my taste. awful. human engineering. with a terrifying logic one attacks the weak point. all i know how to do in this situation, by the way, is pull guard and look for something to choke or lock. nope, apparently they don't know what tapping out means here because i was tapping like western god damn union. i thought he was going to push

that 71-year-old finger right into my brainpan. >> james: there was a saying in the old days, that if there was a fight happening somewhere in town people would go and have a look. and they'd say, "are they fighting with fists or open hand?" and if they were fighting with fists they'd say, "oh don't bother, it's an amateur fight." if they're fighting with open hands then they knew they were masters. ♪ ♪ you live life your way. we can help you retire your way, too. financial guidance while you're mastering life. from chase. so you can.

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>> archival newscaster: on the eastern coast of okinawa yanks entered the village of kin. >> anthony: the u.s. military came ashore in 1945. and to okinawans, it must seem like they never left. today there are roughly 30,000 troops stationed on the island. put that many americans in a place, especially young, mostly male americans, many of them homesick, and it tends to change the environment. ♪ ♪ kin town, just outside of naha, right by camp hansen, one of the larger bases. >> archival newscaster: the

yanks have fought inch by inch to conquer this island. >> anthony: kin is a small slice of americana, both the mainstream america and its dark underbelly. the okinawans have made the kind of adjustments that people do when saddled with neighbors like thousands of marines, and sometime in the '80s adjusted food as we knew it to this. a mutant classic. taco rice. >> waitress: taco and rice, that's taco rice. >> anthony: wow. >> vivian: wow, it's big. >> anthony: is this chili sauce or is it ketchup? >> vivian: um, it's original taco. >> anthony: oh, it's taco sauce. >> vivian: taco rice sauce, but it's, um, a bit spicy but not, not super spicy. >> anthony: oh good. vivian ttakushi has lived in both the u.s. and okinawa. and her aunt sumiko, an entertainer who began singing in american bases after the war.

wow, that's good. there are dueling claims as to how taco rice might have morphed into existence. but sayuri shimabukuro is certain. in the 1980's, american servicemen introduced the standard taco to okinawans. and her grandfather matsuzio gibo decided to tweak them. dumping the fillings straight on to rice for the late night crowd of marines coming back from the bars. this unholy, greasy, starchy, probably really unhealthy delight. a booze mop turned classic, caught on big time for both americans missing home and locals. so i consider myself a pretty pro-military guy. but why are the marines here? like, i like marines but, you know, i'm not robert mcnamara. but it seems to be if you go to war with china, sending in the marines is probably not what you're gonna be doing. people of your generation, what do you think the attitude is

towards the military bases? >> vivian: as long as we're not living near the base -- >> anthony: right. >> vivian: it doesn't affect us that much. >> anthony: right, near the base it makes a difference. >> vivian: near the base it makes, right. >> anthony: i mean look, you know right away, i mean, it's tattoo parlors, strip clubs, vape shops, i mean, you know. >> vivian: and also it's very loud. that's a big issue. >> anthony: tourism is probably the future of okinawa, yes? i mean, beautiful weather, beaches. if the bases leave, it's gonna be big hotels and resorts and golf courses. which is worse? chinese tourists or american marines? >> vivian: i'll stick with the marines. >> anthony: semper fi. ♪ ♪ not everybody here agrees with vivian, by a long shot. okinawans may be easy going and laid back, but the island is also a relative hot bed of political activism.

largely inspired or provoked by what okinawans see as high handed treatment from a central government with different cultural and historical traditions. who don't consider their needs or priorities. and their hugely disproportionate shouldering of the u.s. military presence for the entire country. currently there are close to thirty military installations on okinawa. and even though it's one of the smallest japanese prefectures in terms of livable area, they accommodate more than half of the foreign military presence. even more problematic, much of okinawa's arable land suitable for farming. on an island whose whole traditional identity was built around farming, is eaten up by military bases. the military base issue. is this more important for older people or younger people? >> keiji: oh, it's for the older people. >> anthony: it's for the older people. >> keiji: yes. so when you actually go to a

place where they have a, like, a protest going on. i would say over 80% of the people are, uh, all retired person. >> anthony: why do you think that is? >> keiji: um, this is only my opinion. but, uh, japanese imperial army did a lot of brutal stuff on this island and war never ended for some people. and the feelings that they got suppressed all of a sudden after they retire they kind of burst. and they wanna kinda -- >> anthony: act out. >> keiji: act out. >> anthony: this is keiji yoda, he's an okinawan farmer. and this is nishimachi, a small noodle shop that bears only the owner's name and serves only okinawan-style soba. pork belly or ribs as the meat. the broth a mix of fish, chicken, pork, and vegetable stocks. okinawan soba differs greatly from what we know from the mainland. they use wheat noodles instead of buckwheat.

a nod, perhaps, to the spaghetti-eating marines they lived with all these years. garnishes are spring onion, fish cake, and slices of omelet. add your pickled ginger, and togarashi hot sauce and hoo-rah. it seems the anti-base sentiment also coincide with anti-central government sentiment. >> keiji: yes. >> anthony: you do bear a hugely disproportionate burden of bases. isn't some activism called for here? >> keiji: i think the young generation should decide what to do for our future instead of the old people just fighting for their beliefs. to me i really feel a strong need to, uh, forgive. and then forget. and then move on. i take prilosec otc each morning for my frequent heartburn

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>> anthony: long before the war or the americans arrived, long before the satsuma invaded from the mainland, okinawa was a kingdom. the ryukyu kingdom. a prosperous and peaceful island chain with no standing army. they were farmers, traders, and necessarily diplomats whose eyes, more often than not, looked west to china rather than to the more isolated mainland. while japan, as it existed then, was isolationist racially and

ethnically, culturally, and in every other way. the ryukyu kingdom was not. they were more open. more multi cultural. more used to and predisposed to dealing with the outside world and its influences. today, just a short ferry ride from the main island, a sense, a feeling of that long gone empire remains. kumejima is a small island that has been largely untouched by the changes in the world. people farm and fish as they always did. >> anthony: and the war never came here? this is bunshiro nagame and yohina tomahiro. kumejima residents and friends of james. >> james: no, they didn't.

they suffered very little damage in the war. >> anthony: and, uh, no military bases? no american presence? >> james: well, up until '72 there was an american base. >> anthony: there was. >> james: but then in '72, in the reversion, the base was taken away. >> anthony: now, nothing? >> james: only the japanese self-defense forces now. >> anthony: what do people do here? agriculture? >> james: growing sugar cane. >> anthony: i saw. >> james: tourism. fishing. >> anthony: fishing. have there been attempts to develop here? and, uh, have the locals been able to resist that impulse? >> james: he's saying on kumejima they have rich lives. they have everything they need. they have produce from the land, from the sea. they don't need much else. ♪ ♪ >> anthony: i've been invited to a beach barbecue kumejima-style. go big or go home. to eat some fresh caught tuna that comes straight from the

market to be butchered into sashimi. also caught this morning, some sea snails for the grill. and mozuku, seaweed which can be cooked but today is enjoyed raw. and local prawns eaten either rather raw or grilled or both. >> anthony: now that looks awesome. off with the head. there's more. local beef grilled and then tossed with moyashi, seasoned bean sprouts. we will need our energy it appears. tegumi is as old school a martial art as it gets. no ring, no octagon, the rules

are simple. known as okinawan sumo, it looks easy. it's not. your hands are wrapped in your opponent's belt. object is to get him onto his back, both shoulders before he does it to you. >> anthony: nice. you land on your back for even a second, you lose. >> james: there, he got it there. >> anthony: awesome. >> james: would you like to try? try it. >> anthony: yeah, sure. ♪ ♪ >> man: yes. ♪ ♪

>> james: go on, anthony. nicely done. >> anthony: in the end, it's a less than smoothly executed judo move, kosoto gake i believe, that brings my opponent to ground. thank you for going easy on me. awesome. courtyard, the official hotel of the nfl,

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>> anthony: so, i've given up many vices in my life. many shameful, filthy, guilty pleasures that i used to like that i will -- that i just don't do anymore. uh, cocaine, heroin, prostitutes. the musical stylings of steven tyler. uh, i put aside these childish things, as it were. in favor of a newer more mature me, but there is one shameful secret.

one thing i just can't give up. one thing i keep coming back to every time i come back to japan. one thing that still has an unholy grip on me for no reason that i can gather. it's a convenience store formerly of near akron, ohio, that mutated into a massive japanese chain. behold the wonder that is lawson. what is it exactly about this place that's got its tentacles so deep into my heart and my soul? where are you? i know you're around here somewhere. pillows of love.

egg salad from lawson. need a beverage. in naha, you would be advised to avoid international avenue. unless you're homesick for fellow americans. head down the side streets, shuttered store fronts give way to packed izakayas. a few beers, somebody breaks out a shamisen, and the good times begin. people go out here and after pounding your fists and feet into hardened meat hooks and shitting out bone chips. you can drop by dojo bar. james' refuge where some of the island's most esteemed masters and their students come for what is recognized internationally as the cure for all martial arts related ailments.

alcohol. >> james: would you like a drink? >> anthony: i think i would like a beer and maybe a shot of something. >> james: well, i do have a little shot of something. >> anthony: that's a big snake. >> james: so the habushu sake is, like, the spirit of okinawa. >> anthony: is this sake or whiskey? >> james: this is sake. this is okinawan sake called awamori. so, like a mainland japanese sake, but then they distill it like whiskey. so it becomes stronger, but also now it will age. it's been in here with the snake maybe, like, three years. so all of the essence of the snake has gone out into the alcohol. >> anthony: there seems to be a conflict of interest here. you train, uh, karate very seriously.

i mean, should you people be drinking? this is why i'm asking. where is the point of diminishing returns? >> james: there are not many teachers who don't drink. awamori is intrinsic to the okinawan culture. >> anthony: right. >> james: most enjoy awamori as part of their lifestyle in the same way that karate is part of their lifestyle. they're saying please eat. less talking, more eating. >> anthony: well done. sashimi of, well, let's just say it's animal you like. >> james: this is horsemeat. >> anthony: horse, ah. >> man: horse. >> anthony: thank you. good. good and this? [imitates goat bleating ] >> anthony: oh. goat. oh that's good.

pure protein for people who need it. pork belly. some pickled pig's ears. and baked yam. >> anthony: i watch a lot of, uh, mixed martial arts. i watch a lot of jiu-jitsu. my daughter trains mostly jiu-jitsu, but some stand up. some of the most exciting fighters that i've seen lately who really show the most heart are women. is there a -- is there a future for women in karate? >> man in brown hat: yaya! >> james: so he has a female student here tonight. this is yaya. anthony is asking what's the future for women in traditional karate. >> yaya: when i first started karate, i didn't know this

world. and now i'm learning karate as in the performance and also life. everything is all about love. and karate is showing you if you have this kind of power and the ability to protect yourself, your family, you can be really kind. that's about okinawa i think. okinawan people i think always have this love to everybody.

♪ [ horns honking ] >> anthony: i remember the moment i first realized i'd been living my whole life in black and white. ♪