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tv   Anthony Bourdain Parts Unknown  CNN  April 29, 2016 10:11pm-11:12pm PDT

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[ singing in spanish ] >> anthony: i always feel slightly oppressed by beautiful vistas. do you know what i mean? [ singing in spanish ]
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♪ i took a walk through this beautiful world ♪ ♪ felt the cool rain on my shoulder ♪ ♪ found something good in this beautiful world ♪ ♪ i felt the rain getting colder ♪ ♪ sha, la, la, la, la, la, ♪ sha, la, la, la, la, la, ♪ sha, la, la, la, la, la, ♪ sha, la, la, la, la ♪ >> anthony: ah, the storybook kingdom of granada. one of the oldest, most complex, magically surreal places in
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spain, and one of the most beautiful. granada is tucked against the sierra nevada mountains of andalucia in southern spain. it's not like barcelona, it's not like san sebastian, it ain't madrid. any reasonable sentient person who looks at spain, comes to spain, eats in spain, drinks in spain, they're going to fall in love. otherwise, there's something deeply wrong with you. [ man chuckles ] >> anthony: spain's the sort of place that never really made any sense anyway, and in the very best possible way. [men chanting ] >> anthony: this is a country that gave us the spanish inquisition, also anarchy. this is where devout catholicism mixes with surrealism, modernist cuisine with traditional tapas. christianity and islam traded places, shared space. and the effects and influences of all those things are right here to see. you could almost look back
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through time and through the mists of history, see the phoenicians marching up, cross the vega. or are those feral hippies? an influx of international hippies, many of whom appear to have set up squats in the caves up the mountain, have made things interesting. if they ask what we're doing, you should say we're staging a moon landing. wherever you are on the ideological spectrum, however, some things are constant it seems -- some stereotypical expectations. it's true, there are free tapas everywhere. yes, they do actually take siestas, which is a civilized damn thing to do, far as i can see. flamenco? yes, they do that also. but in granada, they do it old-school. and, oh, yeah, bullfighting. they do that here, too. but i digress. i'm here actually to answer a question. what happens if you go over to the other side? say you grew up in the states, and, like a lot of us, wondered,
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fantasized about what it would be like living abroad in old europe, surrounded by crusader castles, delicious food, another language, another culture. what would that alternate life, that road not taken, be like? my longtime friend and cameraman from maine, zack zamboni, is finding out. so where are we going? >> zack: uh, right here, one of these tables, which maybe we want to do like this with. see? how often do you get to go out with somebody that can properly block the table? >> anthony: misery is what it is. >> zack: oh, boy. gracias. >> waiter: ah. >> anthony: ah, yes, of course. snails in an almond sauce, about as traditional and as delicious as it gets. that's a plateful of perfect happiness. >> zack: good tapa, huh? >> anthony: that's right, tapas come from here. and this is still one of the few places in spain where they're free. all you have to do is keep drinking. >> zack: you can sit here all
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day, just ordering a couple drinks and -- >> anthony: right, no rush. i plan on spending some time here. red wine ordered, tripe's to follow. tender, spicy, delicious tripe. >> zack: sun, plaza, guts. pretty -- good. >> fuen: hello. hello. you're --, no? >> anthony: not too long ago, before zack basically defected to spain, he met fuen. the next thing you know, he's living here, part of an extended andalusian family, eating the ham, drinking the wine, living the life of the spanish dandy, in freaking granada, no less. classically, culturally speaking, do you want a sensitive, nice, caring, thoughtful guy? >> fuen: well, it depends on the woman first. but usually we look for this kind of person that we know he will protect us. >> anthony: from what? feral hippies? [zack laughs ] >> fuen: for example -- you know? or -- >> anthony: i would love to do the vows at your wedding.
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"do you, zack zamboni, swear to protect fuen sanchez from any attacks by feral cave-dwelling hippies who might attempt to sell her jewelry or other things of little value?" [ zack laughs ] >> fuen: t that's actually a ve bold vow. >> anthony: i figure now that zack is marrying into a spanish family, i can piggy-back along for a bit, suck up a little of the magic, live a little bit of what has often been my dream, too. >> zack: but if we can get weird for a second here, man. >> anthony: uh-oh. >> fuen: oh, boy. >> zack: some places, do they have an energy, man, about them? >> anthony: what are you saying, man? >> zack: i, you know, i don't want to get into metaphysics or, uh -- some places we go -- >> anthony: you're going to be living up in a -- cave, you keep talking like this, huh? [ zack laughs ] >> anthony: more wine. [ laughter ] >> anthony: to see spain, to see it straight, to understand it at all, you should probably peek, if only through spread fingers, at that most spanish of
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traditions, bullfighting. meet el fandi, one of spain's most dashing and respected bullfighters. he's invited me to la marquesas ranch, a private bullring where he likes to practice. [ man shouting ] >> alejandro: so, what they're going to do now is they're going to check how brave. >> anthony: and if the calf's not brave -- stew? >> alejandro: exactly. >> anthony: along with me for the day, fuen's brother alejandro, who, like many spaniards, consider bullfighting an art. today, a little practice first. and don't worry, this guy is too young to fight. ♪ >> alejandro: so this is the red cape, you know, that this is the most important cape.
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where they make all the art, all the poetry. exactly. oh, yeah. >> anthony: why the cape, not the man? >> alejandro: because it's moving. >> anthony: so that's important? >> alejandro: that's important. >> anthony: you don't want to be moving? >> alejandro: you don't want to be moving at all. it seems they -- they get -- they get more attack, more -- [ men shouting ] [ laughter ] >> anthony: this guy clearly has spirit. right away, he tries to take a poke at zack's femoral artery. promising. [ el fandi speaking spanish ] [ alejandro speaking spanish ] >> alejandro: now's your turn. >> anthony: i don't think so. >> alejandro: sure. now's your time. you are him. he's going to teach you. >> anthony: yeah? >> alejandro: sure. >> anthony: okay. >> anthony: no one likes to look like a pussy on tv, so, when el fandi jokingly suggests i join him in the ring to wave a pink cape at an aggressive young bull, who just moments ago charged my cameraman, i said what any idiot would say, "si."
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it all starts well enough. hey, this is fun. this is easy. >> anthony: whoa. >> anthony: until i get a horn hooked right up next to my nut sack. then it's not so fun. >> anthony: thanks, guys. oh, man. [ laughs ] this youngster shall live, perhaps to gore future tv hosts with his mighty horns. [ man shouting ] >> anthony: now, this, this is what a real bull looks like. this is a whole different thing, 500 freaking kilos of aggressive, charging, four-legged killdozer aiming at your meat and two veg. that's a lot of muscle. >> alejandro: yeah, that's a lot of muscle. that's a big bull. ♪
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>> anthony: and no matter how big, how strong, how scary, for this intrepid reporter who's seen many animals die for his dinner, this part is never easy. >> alejandro: so, as you see, he puts the cape lower so the bull brings the face forward, showing the neck. that's it. good one. that was really good. and, um, yeah, that's it.
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>> anthony: hey, it's time for stew. bull stew. our friend went to a better place after all, like a big pot, where he simmered slowly for hours with local herbs, onions, and potatoes. nothing like a roaring fire and a spread of iberico ham, homemade chorizo, spanish cheeses, bread, and good olive oil to take the sting out of a near genital mutilation. nice. >> alejandro: looks good, huh? [ el fandi speaking spanish ] >> alejandro: it's not a bad place to come, right? >> anthony: no. [ laughter ] now, you started, uh, at age 19? [ el fandi speaking spanish ] >> anthony: when you were a little boy, growing up -- >> alejandro: yeah. >> anthony: you aspired to be -- >> alejandro: exactly. >> anthony: a bullfighter. the matadors were the original rock stars, the very ideal of masculinity, male beauty, and grace.
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that runs deep. like it or not, you should probably know this before dating a spanish guy. me, i'd happily see an end to it tomorrow. but there is no denying the terrible beauty of a very complex tradition. it's not about winning. it's not about killing the bull. it -- and it -- and nor is it about being just skillful. uh, you have to look good doing it, too. >> alejandro: yeah, exactly. >> anthony: are there any, like, really ugly-ass bullfighters? [ el fandi laughs ] >> anthony: like, a really out-of-shape, a matador with a muffin top. how do you call a muffin top? [ alejandro speaking spanish ] [ el fandi speaking spanish ] [ men speaking spanish ] >> alejandro: we've seen just a little bit, yeah. there's a little of everything. >> anthony: interesting. well, it was an education today and a great meal. thank you. >> alejandro: cheers. >> anthony: cheers.
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great guy. terrible player. ♪ go paperless ♪ don't stress, girl ♪ i got the discounts that you need ♪ it's a balancing act, but i got to give the people what they want -- more box. any words for the critics? what can i say? critties gonna neg. [ applause ] the what?! [ laughs ] >> anthony: holy week, or semana santa, as it's called. observed all over southern spain with a seriousness and a fervor you might not see elsewhere.
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♪ for the seven days leading up to easter, nearly every city in andalusia gets taken over by ancient processions. to an outsider, it's an impenetrable montage of confusing, yet deeply evocative images. figures in dark hoods loom up from every direction. smoke pots of incense, candles, religious imagery, and the crowds. flashes of goya and velazquez, dimly remembered impressions of the inquisition. [ men shouting ] >> anthony: okay, watch this. these guys got to get their painstakingly crafted, massively sized, and incredibly heavy and cumbersome float through the door, down the steps, and out into the street.
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>> pedro: but the woman who escort the virgin, they wear candles to light the whole way to the cathedral. >> anthony: pedro is another of fuen's brother, the youngest, and when not working for an it company in ireland, he does this. he carries crushingly heavy religious floats. they're called castilleros, and they devote months of training to this. man, that thing's huge. >> pedro: yeah, they're moving. it's huge. and this is very, very heavy -- very heavy throne. >> anthony: the virgin float, about 3,500 pounds total, and precise dimensions that have to make it through the door just so. the bearers have to kneel. [ man in parade speaking spanish ] >> man in parade: that's right. >> anthony: crawl along with it on their backs to get it through the door. >> man in parade: up, up, up, up, up, up, up! >> anthony: and the main event. ready? set? up.
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[ cheers and applause ] ♪ >> anthony: let's face it, i like a procession and all but who likes a bunch of guys in hoods coming in your general direction? i don't. frankly, it creeps me out. time for a drink perhaps. this is tabernaculo, as best i understand it, an easter jesus and mary themed drinking establishment where between drinks one can ponder the agony of the christ, but with sausages.
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is it like this all year or just over easter break? >> pedro: it's the whole year. >> anthony: the whole year, it's always like this? >> pedro: the whole year, yeah. you have incense whole year, uh, easter music whole year. >> anthony: now, is this a week for quiet contemplation and worship or is this a party week, or both? >> pedro: both of them. >> anthony: throughout the course of the week, over 40-odd processions will creep slowly through these streets. there are different brotherhoods, each with their own sacred colors, crests, insignia and so on. it's their medallions and particular christ images that adorn the bar. and, frankly, they're kind of bummin' me out. maybe it's just me, but when i'm getting a nice late morning buzz i don't particularly want jesus looking down at me from, like, everywhere. how drunk can you get here? don't you feel like a little guilty, like, getting really drunk here? >> pedro: yeah, of course. >> anthony: whoa, uh, morcilla? >> pedro: morcilla. >> anthony: oh, this is one of my favorite things. >> pedro: this is your favorite things? >> anthony: ever. yes. >> pedro: try it. it's amazing. >> anthony: gaze away
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disapprovingly all you like, jeebus. i am happy now. overlooking granada, the hillside of sacromonte is riddled with caves. many of them older than anyone even remembers. spanish gypsies or gitanos have lived here in caves-turned-homes like this for hundreds of years. [ man speaking spanish ] [ singing and clapping ] >> crowd: aley! aley!
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>> anthony: they call this a juerga, an informal, intimate, and spontaneous performance. what jazz musicians might recognize as a jam session. >> alicia: this is it, granada, the only place in the world where you get to see real flamenco in a cave. >> anthony: alicia, like just about pretty much everyone in granada, is an aficionado. [ curo speaking spanish ] [ singing ] >> anthony: our host, curo, is a poet, historian, and a patriarch of the gitano community here -- an icon of the flamenco world. gitano, a gypsy traveler or roma people are more embraced by the culture here than most other places in europe. >> alicia: well, we have our own gypsies here. [ chuckles ] those are ours. yeah. i can tell you three things that we -- for sure we do here. we do flamenco, we do tapas, and we do siesta. which -- >> anthony: you do them well. >> alicia: yeah. we know how to live, don't we? [ laughs ]
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>> anthony: yeah. [ curo singing in spanish ] ♪ [ curo speaking spanish ]
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[ curo and crowd chanting ] [ crowd singing ] [ curo speaking spanish ]
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>> anthony: they dig deep for their material here. it means something. they're telling you something about themselves. what is the word? duende. >> curo: ah, duende. >> anthony: what is -- what is duende? i've heard it. what? [ curo speaking spanish ] >> anthony: is it an emotional state or a technical? [ curo speaking spanish ] >> anthony: is unhappiness
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necessary for great art? [ alicia speaking spanish ] >> curo: si. >> anthony: oh, he didn't even have to think about that. [ curo speaking spanish ] >> alicia: and then, you perform very well after a couple of these. >> anthony: right. i may not have duende, but i have valentine's. [ curo speaking spanish ] >> anthony: cachondo? i know that expression. wait a minute. >> alicia: yeah. [ laughs ] [ anthony laughs ] >> anthony: right. trugreen presents the yardley's. hello?! you do? really? ding dong? -oh, pizza is here! -oh!
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>> anthony: nighttime in granada, and it's time to pursue that greatest of spanish traditions, tapas. you may think you know what a tapa is, like if you've had small bites at some fusion hipster bar where they do a whole lot of little plates. yeah. that ain't a tapa. >> anthony: so how often do you do this a week? >> zack: i do it five days a week. >> anthony: dude. >> zack: it's -- >> fuen: sat -- saturday. >> zack: it's rare not to do this. but, you know, it's like on the weekend, you come out for a bunch. the weekday, you come out for
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one. >> anthony: this is la tana, a little place run by sommelier, jesus and louisa, brother and sister -- one bartender, one cook, taking care of everything. >> fuen: tapa is for free. that's the main issue of the tapa. >> anthony: so, you're just paying for the wine? >> fuen: exactly. >> anthony: so if i were like a degenerate wino, i could still eat well? >> zack: yeah. >> anthony: as long as i could afford my wine, i'd eat. >> zack: that's right. >> fuen: cheers. >> anthony: let us put this theory into practice. with our first round of drinks comes this. >> fuen: this is tomato with bread, garlic, olive oil, and blended. >> anthony: yeah, i could pretty much eat that all day long. >> zack: yeah. >> anthony: that's right, tapas are free. it shouldn't work but somehow it does. another drink, another tapa. >> anthony: tomatoes, olive oil, bread. >> fuen: yeah. >> zack: yeah. >> fuen: awesome. and this for me is just amazing. >> anthony: so i just -- all i gotta do is keep drinking and i'm going to eat like a king? >> zack: yeah, and you'll keep eating here, yeah.
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although, uh, uh, maybe you'll be interested in caviar here. >> anthony: really? >> zack: yeah. >> anthony: that's not included with my, uh -- ? >> zack: no. well -- >> fuen: well, that's another point of the tapas. >> zack: yes. >> fuen: usually, you have a few tapas and then, you know, you ask for a -- >> anthony: you start to get hungry? >> fuen: yeah, you ask for a portion. >> zack: exactly. >> fuen: you ask for a portion. >> anthony: right. >> zack: they're just hooking you in with it. >> anthony: so it's all a scam, man. >> zack: it is a scam. >> anthony: they li -- a couple of little nibbles, the next thing you know, you're ordering, uh, 200 grams of caviar. caviar ain't free, my friend. delicious, entirely sustainable spanish caviar from farmed river sturgeon. >> zack: it's funny you can come in a place like this, get -- >> anthony: bread with tomato. >> zack: yeah, or -- >> anthony: some high caste caviar. >> zack: oh, oh, oh. >> fuen: you guys are going to eat the whole thing in one spoon. i'm going to -- >> anthony: i'm sorry, is there something wrong with that? not even married yet, it's nag, nag, nag. [ zack and fuen laughs ] >> anthony: next place, let's do it. ah, tapas, what a novel concept. there's even a verb for it. meaning, to take tapas, as in, if we we're going to --
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some more, we're going to have to elbow past this crowd of catholics here. >> zack: is it extra insane because it's santo semana? yes. but, it's always busy here, man. >> fuen: oh boy. >> zack: the bar we were going is just on the other side. >> anthony: maybe, uh, we go around. with parades crisscrossing the city in every direction, the steady drumbeat warns that your route is about to be cut off entirely for the next 40 minutes. >> zack: we can cross. we can cross. >> fuen: zack, we have to go around. >> zack: where? going around, going around, going around. >> fuen: but we need to walk fast. >> zack: perdon, perdon, perdon, gracias. perdon, senora. [ woman speaking spanish ] [ zack speaking spanish ] >> zack: perdon. gracias. >> anthony: people take their processions very seriously here and aren't exactly accommodating to anyone who threatens to block the view.
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>> zack: that was amazing. right? wasn't that cool? see, tell me there's not some duende in their music. come on. >> fuen: it isn't duende in that music. >> zack: there is some duende. >> anthony: finally, bar number two, oliver. this place is always packed. beer, please. and with it comes a delightful tapa of mussels steamed in butter and olive oil. >> zack: oh that's a -- look at that. that's a great tapa. come on. this is what's different. >> anthony: right. >> zack: people come in here and they will eat like this, perfectly happy, perfectly content to forego the table, come out here and stand around and eat like this. >> fuen: exactly. >> anthony: fuen's glass of wine comes with fried eggplant and honey, which sounds to me like it's moorish in origin. more wine accompanied by these delicious little clams. >> anthony: oh, yeah! and the main event. >> zack: oh, oh.
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>> anthony: now we are talking. yes. these langoustines, however, are not tapas, and consequently not free. but worth it at any price. >> anthony: that's so totally awesome. oh, we did good work here. >> zack: anything else, tony> shall we go on? >> anthony: no, let's move on. >> zack: all right. >> fuen: let's move on. >> anthony: as this death march of tapas continues, things start to get a little weird. this is the story of my life. >> fuen: is it? >> anthony: he doesn't do this at home, does he, ever? >> fuen: no. no, thank god. so now i understand how you feel when -- >> anthony: yes. >> fuen: -- every day. >> anthony: good. finally, a little empathy. i do like the increasingly meta aspect of this show. i should really be live streaming. that would really be interesting. [ laughter ] >> anthony: finally, bar
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gallardo, just making it before closing. now, let's be honest. we've had a lot to eat and drink at this point. some restraint needs to be shown. >> zack: little fried fishies? what do you think? >> anthony: okay, fried fish. >> zack: a little one. >> anthony: little ones. >> zack: then we're done. >> anthony: and cheese. but instead, three more beers, three more tapas. cheese. bocarones, little fried smelts. and chuletitas, baby lamb chops. >> fuen: these are super good. >> anthony: these are super good. see, i'm uncomfortable -- the idea of something for nothing. >> zack: right. it's not something for nothing. it's all -- >> anthony: $3 for a glass of wine is something for nothing. >> zack: yeah, but if somebody can get the math right in the u.s., this'll take off. >> anthony: no, never. >> zack: really? >> anthony: we will never have it in america. never, ever. >> zack: really? come on. >> anthony: ever. you're looking to change the entire day from the minute you get up in the morning in america -- you nap in the
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afternoon? are you out of your mind? >> zack: i want to be able to go down, walk to my bar, i want to have a little beer. >> anthony: yeah, i want a golden unicorn that shits money. both of those scenarios are equally likely. [ zack laughs ] ♪ one coat, yes! ♪ there is a day, for every number. ♪ ♪ there is a time, for all my slumbers. ♪ ♪ and i can see, that i can't run and hide. ♪ one coat guaranteed marquee interior. behr's most advanced paint. come find our top rated paints, only at the home depot.
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>> anthony: every storybook kingdom needs a castle. grenada, it's got a good one. the alhambra.
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one of the most enchanted, inscrutable, maddenly beautiful structures ever created by man. built atop ninth-century fortifications by the nasrid dynasty, and added to and added to as history unfolded through wars and tragedy and invasion and conquest. >> zack: on the outside, it's very bare. all you see is these tiny windows. >> anthony: right. >> zack: and it's projecting impenetrability. but then you come in here. >> anthony: zack has gone, well, let's call it what it is -- a bit mad about the place. the details, and there are a lot of them, can obsess a man. plus, he's a cinematographer, so you can understand once you start to really look around how that might get a grip on a guy whose profession is the intricate play between light and darkness. >> zack: my theory is that they were trying to weave nature, calligraphy, symbols. these are all inscriptions within here. inscriptions turned into graphics. you know.
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>> anthony: right, because, uh, the islamic argue not to depict works of god. >> zack: yes, but what you can depict, and this is what this entire place is, is geometric systems. >> anthony: yes. when the nasrid dynasty lived here, it was a harmonious space where light, shade, water, the transit of the moons and the stars were harnessed and glorified. >> zack: i think the best assumption is nothing is random. they came here and laid out everything according to some -- >> anthony: a plan, man. this was a place for reflection. each element of design presumably intended to have effects both psychological and religious.
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>> zack: it's really a cinematographer's paradise, 'cause everything is about light and math. obviously, they weren't cinematographers, but everything is framing for them. >> anthony: how long did it take them, uh, to build this? >> zack: hundreds of years. >> anthony: that's why it takes so long for you to get the shot? oh, snap. [ zack laughs ] >> anthony: in the builders' time, engineers, astronomers, mathematicians were like priests. magicians. possessors of divine knowledge. how the universe worked. did they want to contemplate nature? or did they want to conquer it, control it? >> zack: i mean, they were certainly trying to emulate it. you know, all their mathematics were really trying to find out how nature worked, particularly square roots and the repetition of pattern. >> anthony: they say mathematical patterns in the sky and on earth. the way water moved and rippled. the way things grew. the simple pine cone, a fern, a pomegranate. and they thought about the basic truths these things might represent.
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>> zack: these symmetries can all be shuffled, spun on any point, and they align again with themselves. so, if you stretched them out, for them, they pointed to infinity. >> anthony: we will understand all things. >> zack: through contemplating sacred geometry. >> anthony: how did nature unfold? pattern itself? could the basic designs of nature, even if divine, be replicated in this magnificent structure? trying to solve the riddle of god here. >> zack: exactly.
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>> anthony: an hour's drive from grenada, the mediterranean. unlike much of spain's coastline, ruined by real estate
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speculators and overdevelopment, the coast around here in almaria is largely unspoiled. i'm on my way to a tradition in these parts, best described as the local version of a beach barbecue. working the grill, chef juan andres moria. he heads the highly regarded el claustro, back in grenada. we're joined by fellow chef rafael lukay and some friends. jefe, you are killing us with some good-looking food here. >> juan: yeah. >> anthony: some of that simple yet magical, on toast. oh, that's one of my favorite things. >> juan: yeah? amazing. >> anthony: dried tuna, flavor-packed like tuna prosciutto. >> juan: you don't mind if i put some olive oil? >> anthony: oh, 100% extra virgin from grenada. >> juan: yes, it's quite spicy and bitter and -- >> anthony: mm.
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>> anthony: spain is a beautiful country. we're not even eating yet and it's good. ooh, uh, it's like, uh -- >> rafael: pate. >> anthony: pate? >> rafael: de morcilla. >> anthony: oh, sweet. oh, mas. [ laughter ] that is like the best thing in the world. >> juan: you want to eat this, the whole thing? >> anthony: uh, this? yeah. >> juan: yeah. >> anthony: chocolate. [ juan laughs ] >> anthony: this is the chocolate of the gods. >> anthony: some grilled octopus, and sea bream. oh, and some nice pork tenderloin. and my personal favorite, a particularly delicious morcilla, fresh blood sausage. >> anthony: yes. i feel some duende coming on. i can just squeeze that, like it's -- i'm telling you. sexual metaphor coming. beautiful. just feeling them is -- oh, yeah. looking good.
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wow, look at that. lot of fat. >> cook: yeah, yeah, it's quite nice. >> anthony: those were happy pigs. [ cook laughs ] >> anthony: lazy pigs. >> cook: the ones we like, the ones we raise here in spain. >> anthony: yeah, the pigs and the bulls are very happy here, until they're not. >> cook: yeah, yeah, the moment of truth. >> anthony: okay, enough with the work. let's eat. nice. ah. [ rafael speaking spanish ] >> anthony: wow. [ rafael speaking spanish ] >> juan: i wonder, huh? >> anthony: awesome. a great meal to -- >> juan: yeah. >> anthony: great, great, great, great, great meal. uh, this is the dream of -- >> juan: everybody. >> anthony: all the world. >> juan: yeah. >> anthony: the dream is to live in -- in the -- in grenada, you know, work in the morning, have a one-hour nap in the afternoon, uh, at night go out and have that life, you know? go out and see your friends and eat -- eat tapa and -- and drink red wine and be in a beautiful place. you know, to have this kind of
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music and the -- this food and this kind of culture, uh, to look out the window and to see spain. >> juan: problem is one thing. >> anthony: yeah? >> juan: family. >> anthony: yeah. >> juan: family is very, very, very important. >> anthony: right, see, he did it right. he's marrying into a spanish family in grenada. >> juan: right. >> anthony: it's cheating, man. >> juan: yeah. >> anthony: it's very smart. >> juan: he's very lucky. >> anthony: i know, i know. >> juan: and a smart guy. >> anthony: right. look, no one's going to dare dream of this, because this is too much to dream for. this is, uh, extraordinary. >> juan: yeah. >> anthony: but an ordinary life in spain looks pretty good to me. (politely) wait, wait, wait! you can't put it in like...
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>> anthony: the new, swinging zamboni lifestyle. rise early, like, 9:00 a.m. then it's down to the corner coffee shop for a café con leche, maybe a small breakfast like toast with tomato, pan y tomate. no, more than that. light, simple, 'cause there will be a lot more eating and drinking today and you want to be ready. by 2:00 p.m., he's made his way back uphill to mom's place.
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>> zack: every day i come here for lunch. >> maria: beer. eh? [ laughs ] >> zack: and i walk in and she says, "get us two beers." so i'll get two beers from the fridge and watch her cook. [ maria speaking spanish ] [ zack speaking spanish ] >> maria: salud. >> anthony: everybody's home for easter. maria jose, zack's soon-to-be mother-in-law, and eloy, that's dad, plus alejandro and pedro, the soon-to-be brothers-in-law, who you've already met. what this nice family doesn't realize is they aren't just gaining a son, but also an annoying half-drunk and extremely hungry uncle tony. and i know what happens here. >> zack: yeah, so let's -- okay. [ laughter ] >> anthony: jamon, sitting there ready to be carved. [ eloy speaking spanish ] >> alejandro: but you know that zack had to prove us that he was able to cut the ham before he proposed to my sister.
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>> anthony: i think that's a completely reasonable policy. [ laughter ] >> anthony: eventually, the appropriate hour for lunch approaches. so, not to embarrass you publicly -- [ maria speaking spanish ] >> anthony: -- but the -- maine is not exactly the mediterranean of america. [ laughter ] let's put it that way. how is he adapting to the spanish lifestyle? i mean, let's face it. he's a maine boy. >> fuen: he's more spanish than me. >> anthony: really? >> fuen: yeah. and, i mean, in the first week he was like, "ah, i don't understand how you guys can take siesta." the week after, "i need a siesta." [ laughs ] >> anthony: it's interesting to see how you've made the transition. cheers. >> pedro: cheers. >> alejandro: cheers. [ maria speaking spanish ] >> anthony: first up, this, bacalao salad -- salt cod, egg, black olives, oranges, tomatoes, dressed in olive oil. remember, this is holy week. maria jose is preparing recipes that go back through the family
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so far that nobody knows exactly where they even came from. migas, another iconic dish of andalusia. informally referred to as the shepherd's lunch, as the story goes, born as a way to use old, hard bread and combine all the week's leftovers. i'm told that every household in spain has a variation. what changes is what you put on it. today, it's sardines, cod, chorizo, melon, and peppers. >> anthony: oh man, that's, that's, that's a lot of good stuff in one bowl. so, how often do you eat this well? >> zack: every lunch is like this. every -- >> anthony: every lunch in your life? >> zack: every day when i'm here. but lunch is -- >> anthony: big. >> zack: -- big. we eat lunch, siesta. seguro. >> elroy si. right. >> zack: but you can't -- you know, i used to try to resist siesta, and you can't do it here. society will not accept you not taking a siesta. but that's the flow of life here. >> anthony: that sort of begs the question, then. while i'm busy hating you for your life, how often are you getting drunk a day?
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>> zack: twice. >> anthony: right. >> zack: one and a half. >> fuen: i don't get drunk in a day. >> zack: but the point of this is -- is the -- >> eloy no. [ eloy speaking spanish ] >> zack: that is so spanish, by the way, to be like -- everybody have a very distinct opinion and it be completely different. >> anthony: exactly. exactly. yeah. >> zack: it's like -- >> eloy: it's typical. >> alejandro: and no one's saying -- no one's saying, "whatever." i don't know. [ laughter ] >> anthony: when my time comes, i pretty much want to die at a table like this. good work, zamboni. good work. so, zack, you happy with the show? >> zack: hope i don't suck on television. >> anthony: dude, i think i'm setting a pretty low bar. i'm going to tell you, this relaxed lifestyle, you know, lounging around, eating, and drinking, and -- no nap is long enough for me. yeah, life is good.
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i envy you, zack zamboni. and we're out. nice end. ♪ [ fireworks ] >> anthony: this is the story of one man, one chef, and a city. also, it's about france, and a lot of other chefs, and a culinary tradition that grew up to change the world of gastronomy. it's about a family tree, about the trunk from which many branches grew. and it's about food, lots of food. great food, some of the greatest food on earth. ♪ ♪ i took a walk through this beautifud

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