♪ >> crowd: yamas. [ glasses clinking ] ♪ ♪ some people must live in great spaces where the sky goes on forever. where everyone must bend to the land. where to hunt, to fish, to sleep under that big sky aren't activities, but a way of life. >> it was right here in those mountains that cheyenne and crow battle took place, but i like it. it's very peaceful. ♪ ♪ >> what was it like a hundred years ago? 200 years ago?

>> not much different. this was never forested. this is the dry side of the river because the primary winds come from the west. rain tends to blow over here that brings the snow to the mountains. >> legendary writer and poet jim harrison is one of those people and this is his home. ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪

♪ am i as old as i am? maybe not. time is an industry that could tip us upside down. yesterday i was 7 in the woods. a bandage covered my blind eye. 68 years ago later i could still inhabit that boy's body. i start thinking about a time in between. it is the burden of life to be in the ages without seeing the end of time. ♪ ♪

>> next time you turn off a news cycle filled with shouting bobble-heads convinced that america is devolving into a moronic inferno, questioning the greatness of your nation, maybe you should come here. here are your purple mountains majesty. this is the landscape that generations of dreamers, despots, adventurers, explorers, crack pots and heroes fought and died for. it's one of the most beautiful places on earth. there is no place like it. montana. many have come to claim their piece over the years, but before the prospectors and explorers there were the plains indians. the absarre be onninga have been master horsemen since they adopted spanish-introduced mustangs in the 18th century. general black jack pershing.

he called the native americans the centaurs of the plains. >> better known as the crow they were once part of the larger hadassah tribe. centuries ago they split off on their own and wandered or were pushed by conflict with the blackfeet, cheyenne and dakota until settling here in the yellowstone river valley. >> that horse became everything to our people. >> kennard real bird grew up ranching and raising horses here at medicine tail coulee which happens to be the exact spot where general george custer had the worst day of his life. kennard raises horses for rodeo, for riding and for this, indian relay racing. >> the athletic ability on them kids are just amazing. the competition is intense. >> they travel all over to compete at this collarbone is that correct, skull cracking, bone snappingly dangerous sport. former allies and former blood enemies alike. >> it requires a lot of courage. >> i'll bet. >> and a high threshold for

pain. it's representative of a warrior mentality. >> welcome! >> one rider, three horses. >> and they're lined up and gun goes off. it's like a spontaneous combustion. >> top speed is around 40 miles an hour and after each lap the rider dismounts at full freakin' gallop and leaps hopefully on to the next horse. yes, it's as dangerous and difficult as it looks. the prizes at big events run into the thousands of dollars, but really, it's about bragging rights. and pride. >> being in motion, in rhythm in time and in one with that horse. they develop strength of character, and once they conquer that fear, that feeling of accomplishment is so great, when they walk back from that race they have this sense of pride and self-worth of sky high.

now they've identified with their ancestors. ♪ ♪ >> ken's wife diane has prepared a lunch of buffalo steaks, potato salad, fry bread and indian pudding made of juneberry stewed with flour and sugar. >> when i looked at my ancestors, they didn't have diabetes and they didn't have much cancer. they were very strong, durable people, and i said, well, i'm going to start eating nothing, but buffer low. >> over the course of your life, how much has this area changed? >> quite a bit. we went and picked up a four-wheeler last sunday. it'll be the first four-wheeler on the place. >> given those changes, what are the crow people going to be doing in 20 years? 30 years?

is the horse going to play an important part of the culture still? >> i think so, yeah. because what's a place going to be like without horses? i wouldn't want to be there. ♪ ♪ >> who owns this land? can anyone really own it? who gets to use it? these are big questions that cut across traditional ideological lines out here where they have real meaning, not theoretical meaning. all this belongs to one man. this guy. bill galt. >> we're about a half mile from the confluence of rock creek and the smith river. >> galt ranch is 100,000 acres of grazing land, mountains, cliffs and valleys. there's also some of the best trout fishing on the planet. >> bill, the water level on the creek looks good. >> this is bill's friend, the author and journalist david mccumber. they disagree on land use, a major issue. remember when you could do that and still be friends?

♪ >> lee kinsey is a professional outfitter who bill leases some areas of his property to for fishing. >> all this to outwit a fish? >> i know. >> it's amazing. >>. >> all right. go ahead and just let that tip high in the air. good. perfect. >> bill's fifth generation montanan, whose principal business is raising cattle. he's no weekend cowboy. this is work and he pays a lot of attention to his land and a big issue for him and for just about everybody around here is the 1984 stream access law. >> anybody that could access a stream via a public means could, in fact, use the stream even if it was private ground as long as they stayed within the ordinary high watermark of the stream. >> widely heralded by sportsmen and outdoor enthusiasts, the law did not go down well with landowners like bill. >> got him. >> something took a bite. >> he's still got a fish right

there, too. >> i see him. >> perfect! hoop set, set! whoa! fish of the day. nice brownie. >> all right! beautiful thing! that's pretty, but i will not eat you today, my friend. not today. >> for lunch, a modest protein-centric repast of steak, a wagyu angus hybrid bred and raised right here on bill's ranch. >> there's the marbling on the wagyu steak. that's what makes them good. >> oh, that's nice. >> and it's pretty damn tasty, i can tell you. >> so you hold an opposing view, is that correct, on access? >> the idea behind the stream access law that if you stay in water, it's public. i agree with that concept. >> but where do you draw the line for private property risk? if the state were to pass a law that your restroom was public because of the public needed it in your house. >> right. >> but just because this isn't my backyard doesn't mean it doesn't isn't any less mine than

your toilet is yours. we still pay taxes on every foot of it. >> i'm an old school lefty, you go i bot to say. i kind of completely understand the property owner's point of view here. there would be no ambiguity in my feeling if, i'd inherited this land and it had been in my family for generations and i looked around at it and wanted to keep it like it is. >> i have some sympathy for that. anybody that's not complying with stream access merely has to step into the stream when he hears you coming. >> the spirit of it makes sense. >> the spirit of it is thievery. they own it and we took it and it's not stealing it without compensation. >> this isn't about being a good neighbor. >> foo people ask nicely more often than not you're going to say yes? >> it used to be before stream access we sort of required someone to have permission if they behaved themselves. >> after stream access is when the outfitters came into the world not because we wanted to

make money, but because we wanted someone there patrolling and policing it. the outfitters take care of it. >> a small like this can only take so much pressure. we try to manage it and fish it responsibly, if someone wants to walk from the smith five miles up to here and do it legally, i say all of the more power to them. >> that's what i'm saying.

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for only a second before it becomes clear why they're points of fierce pride for locals for whom they signify and commemorate anything. >> for montanans, many people consider it sort of a black eye. i happen to think it's sort of the essence of montana. >> aaron paret was born if butte. he's a professor of literature and a chronicler of the city's colorful literary hift. >> >> there is something beautiful about this city, right? >> the enduring decay like in detroit or a buffalo or a cleveland, you can see the aspirations of the builders or the people who they were building for. >> as i've gotten older i kind of think about it the way europeans romanticized those ruins in greece and rome. butte is america's acropolis. ♪ >> in its heyday, butte producd tens of billions of dollars' worth of copper that built, well, america. that helped power the country,

defended against germany and japan. without this hill, no copper wire, no electricity. at the turn of the century marcus daly's amalgamated company consumed its competitors and became anaconda copper by the '20s, the company as it's referred to, generated staggering wealths by todays' or any days standards. people came from all over the world to make their fortunes here or simply for steady work, a better life. >> cornish, welsh, a lot of eastern europeans. >> krocations, serbs, very ethnically diverse. >> by montana standards or by any stand arts? >> i would say by any standards it's a microversion of new york city. >> meaderville was an italian neighborhood and developed a tradition of supper clubs. lidia's was opened in 1946 by lidia micheletti in the fourmile, the valley below butte. >> so what is a supper cl un?

i've heard about this tradition, but i don't really understand what distinguisher a supper club from a restaurant. >> at least in mono tonia the supper clubs are a variation of meaderville-style help involves the antipast on beginning. >> sliced beats, sweet potato salad, salami and cheese, side salad, pickled peppers and breadsticks. >> and then when you actually get your entree, you oddly enough get ravioli or spaghetti or here both, but also french fries. >> odd. >> that may be unique to montana. >>, this is whacky. it makes no sense. >> it is somewhere bizarre to have scallops and french fries. >> yeah, made meaderville no longer around? >> no, it's not. it was. >> by the 1950s, mining was moving increasingly to above ground, open pit which meant fewer jobs and a bigger, more visible footprint.

by 1955, the berkeley pit had become the largest open-pit copper mine in the world. as it expanded it devoured meaderville and surrounding neighborhoods. there was money down there to be dug out of the ground and that's what butte had always been about from the beginning. in 1983, the pumps that held back the groundwater from thousands of miles of tunnels beneath the city were turned off. the pit filled with 30 billion gallons of water, and as mine tailings and mineral refuse contaminated the water it became a giant insanely toxic lake of sulfuric acid. a monument to greed and heedless exploitation of the earth and something eerily, yet tragically beautiful. >> if you're still living here, you have to have some weird, perverse pride in the pit? >> absolutely. >> correct me if i'm wrong. >> you nailed it. obviously, the pit is an

enduring emblem of that capitalist greed and you also have people who are proud of where they live. the history of butte, in many ways, is this town that should have died, but never did. part of that is luck, geographically, but also the character of the people here. you know, they endured. >> as you might have gathered by now, this is a working-class town and unusual in that it's a union town. a proudly union town in an otherwise very red state. >> butte is the most interesting, important town in america that nobody knows about. >> bryant mcgregor is the owner of the silver dollar saloon in what was once butte's chinatown. >> we call ourselves butte america. >> amanda curtis, a former state congresswoman was born of the labor movement. she's a unionist and an advocate for workers and this solidly union city she calls home. >> when you got off the boat at ellis island it said butte

pinned to your shirt and it wasn't butte, montana, right? it was butte, america. we were founded by european immigrants who came from socialist countries with all of these crazy socialist ideas. >> would you say montana in a stereo typical way fairly relatively socially conservative? >> oh, absolutely, but butte is labor town. >> nobody knows anything about union history. they don't teach it. when the country was at its peak, unions were at their peak. wages were at their peak, unions were at their peak. >> that was then, this is now. this is the era of i've got mine, jack. >> that's what makes butte different. it's not i've got mine. >> it isn't? >> weave grown community out of taking care of each other. >> you have to remember what it was like for workers before union, if you can imagine. men worked under ground for as little as $3 a day, 10 to 12-hour shifts, six days a week. thousands died over the years in industrial accidents or from

sill dosis, lungs ravaged from the airborne silica dust. >> you don't have any rights in your workplace unless you bond together and have a collective voice. >> in a one-company town despite hiring assassins and strike-breakers, buttes thousands of workers successfully managed to unionize. labor costs increased while copper prices slumped. anaconda responded by moving their production increasingly south. way south. to chile with such impediment as labor laws and fair wages were more malleable. >> we serve as the example about what happens if you allow unfettered capitalism. >> but isn't there something beautiful about unfettered capitalism? because look, this structure here -- >> we powered the entire world. >> as long as they're making that money in the god damn united states of america first, i feel i'm a patriot and you're taking jobs from america to export them overseas. >> you're not. >> you're not. >> and we've been talking about

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>> time sinks slowly to the deepest part of the ocean, the mariana trench. she's tired of light and it's feared black. >> they say that butte is a mile high and a mile deep and to get an idea of what they mean you've got to go down. down deep into the hill. an intricate warren of tunnels riddled through the rock and soil that lay beneath the city was flooded forever by water and darkness. the orphan boy mine is one of the few remaining hard rock mines in the city. ♪ ♪ >> today it serves as a training facility for the montana tech school of mines and engineering. >> there are five generations of mining here. in order to survive and provide the resources for america, these people were super skillful. >> jim keane is a state senator and labor advocate who grew up

working the mines of butte. >> how many miles of tunnel under butte total? >> 10 -- 10,000 miles of tunnel. >> 10,000 miles. >> and i figured -- >> like this. >> they're smaller, usually. >> larry hoffman is a longtime mining engineer and instructor. matt krattiger is a new guy. a hard rock miner by day, he likes to relax by spending his free time down here playing. >> i come mining for fun on my days off. >> it gets in your blood and you get a lot of pride in it. >> these guys like it and seem to like drilling holes deep into the rock face. ♪ ♪ >> you want to drill? >> sure. ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ >> pull that out.

and then you get the feel for where the weight sets on it. >> cool. >> do that several hundred times a day, though. just -- no! ♪ ♪ >> sweet! >> the community recognized the miner was at the top of the food chain. when i grew up he was considered just like a doctor or a lawyer because everybody knew he was the one making everything work. the other thing about mining is that it's so intensive. i mean, you need engineers. you need guys running ventilation, mechanic or carpenter or pipe fitter. it's just such a diverse asset to have all these different types of people. that's what was so good about it. >> mining was always dangerous, but these men are proud of what they do and of the generations who came before them, who built neighborhoods and schools and helped power the nation. >> they loved their work. they raised their families. they worked all the time.

>> it was a destination with hopes and dreams of hard work leading to a better life. >> you know, the company's a son of a bitch, let's face it, but they were our son of a bitch. that's just the way it was. the community worked to support the people. ♪ ♪ >> here's the fun part! >> cool! >> how many holes do you usually drill to make a round? >> between 20 and 30. >> what is a round? >> this pattern has to be drilled out and every time you advance the face that is a round. you drill it, you load it. you blast it, you muck it, you bolt it and you drill it again and that's a cycle. >> we're in the loading process right here. >> it's all prime and top priming the hole. quick, fill it away. >> back in the day it was dynamite, but in they started

switching over to this stuff. anfo, ammonium nitrate and fuel oil. >> now we get to time it. >> this is where i got hooked on mining. as soona i set that first round off it was how do i do another one? >> fascinating. >> this is where it all starts. >> all right. >> right here. >> everybody got everything out? >> four seconds of silence. >> everybody's good? everybody's ready? >> yeah. >> all right. >> fire in the hole! ♪ ♪ >> one, two, three -- [ explosion ] >> welcome to my end. >> that's deeply satisfying. woo hoo! >> oh, yeah. >> very cool. >> can we see the smoke? >> does that vent it out? >> yeah. the smoke will start moving

towards us. you have to get in the smoke. >> oh, yeah. smells like victory. >> this is the smell of mining. >> we'll see if it all worked as planned. >> that shock wave is awesome. >> isn't it? >> yeah. >> this is like being an astronaut right now. when we go in there you can be the first person in the world to see what you are seeing. >> all right! >> did you break it? >> yeah! >> nice, huh? happy that it worked it. >> i'm very happy with it. it came out just the way it should. >> that's another six-foot advance. and that is a round. >> it's a beautiful thing. >> yes, it is. >> i fell in love with the dark and the blowing things up and the people. >> the people is a big thing. you meet some of the most interesting people. ♪ ♪

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life feels a little lighter, potency probiotic, livelier, a little more you. ultimate flora probiotics. about one-third of montana is public land. it was set aside for the people of the united states of america. generally speaking, it is intended for multi-purpose use. timber harvest, grazing land, hiking, fishing, hunting and mining. these open lands are important

to hunters and anglers like dan bailey. he's the montana representative for pheasants forever, an organization working to conserve pheasants and other wild life through careful management. >> so this is a piece of property that's owned by pheasants forever. it's open to public access and this is through montana's block management system and we sign in and they collect all of the tags and they know who's been on the property. >> today me and my friend joe rogan are going after pheasant. >> he's the voice of the upc and the podcast the joe rogan experience. in recent years joe has become an advocate for the notion that you should, whenever possible, know where your food comes from. >> the connection that you have with your food when you kill it yourself, it's just a totally different experience. >> i believe if you choose to eat meat there should be a little bit of guilt and shame involved. something did die. so there should be a sense of loss and an understanding. >> right here, this is it. >> you know where your food

comes from. that's as small a circle as you can get. [ whistle ] >> the three things we can hunt here are hungarian partridge which is a small bird and the sharp-tailed grouse and then rooster pheasants and no hen fessants and i'll call out what it is. >> yeah. i'll wait for you because i sure as hell won't be able to identify it. >> one person on one side and one person on the other and i'll run the dogs through the middle. >> which way will they break, do you think? it could be any which way. >> any which way. we're hoping for over us. [ whistle ] >> hen, hen, hen, hen, hen! >> what happens if you accidentally shoot a hen? >> do you get in trouble? >> you've heard about the walk of shame? >> so you have a split second to determine whether it's a shootable bird? >> okay. >> we're counting on you. ♪ ♪

>> that's a rooster! >> i could have shot at that, too. that was an easy shot. shit! >> one of those days, huh? >> public land in mono continua, we're fortunate, we have a lot of them, but you know they get a lot of pressure, but when you get one of these birds it's pretty special. >> public land hunting is always, always a lot of work. in general anybody can come out here and chase your birds so -- >> i saw a bunch of pheasants together. let's get serious about this. >> all right. ♪ ♪ >> we'll take these dogs to the river. ♪ ♪ >> rooster! [ gunshots ] >> nice shot! >> go get up on that bank? >> who got it? >> he caught it. i missed that one over here.

come on. good boy. come on, jugger. >> nice shot. >> thank you. >> bring it here. come on. >> nice job. >> there you go. montana rooster, good eating. >> all right, man. start plucking. ♪ ♪ >> with one in the bag we meet up with the rest of our party to cook and drink and eat. land tawny is a fifth generation montanan and an active conservationist and hal herring is a journalist for field and stream. the pheasant is cooked two ways, marinated in soy sauce, fish sauce and sriracha and lime browned in butter and buffaloed like chicken wings or dredge it in butter with cajun spice, and sauteed with garlic and brandy and then braised a bit with stock and wild mushrooms and collard green s and bacon is a side serve as a nice cleanse. >> these greens are good. >> it was an amazing day. >> it was beautiful today.

>> why should people in new york or san francisco who have never hunted in what way does your access to hunting ground impact on this nation in a positive way? why should they care? >> it's not hunting ground. it's hunting ground. it's owned by the people of the united states of america. >> i just see our country is very nuanced and private property is bedrock, but public lands have worked. >> you're talking about the government stepping in and saying we're taking all of this land and we'll protect it from exploitation by capitalist. >> it's not for anybody and it's a path forward and it's not happening anywhere else in the world and the reason it came here is because it's such a great country. as we move into the future it takes everybody understanding what it means to america. >> to say hunting and conservation is intertwine on. >> is an absolute fact. >> it is an absolute fact and it's a painful admission that we are the masters of this environment whether we like it or not.

>> as thinking beings, we're the only ones in the food chain that understand the consequences of the imbalance and therefore we do have a right to take care of this thing and manage it. when it comes to animals that can alter their environment we're unique. >> i'm not a hunter, obviously. >> we hunted all day today. you take a shit you're a shitter. >> that's what it is. >> you shot that pheasant. we're eating that pheasant and there's no closer connection to food than that. >> i think there's a fundamental misunderstanding by people that don't hunt or people that call themselves animal activists that we don't love the animals as much as they do and that's just not true. >> we do what we do because we love mother nature. we love wild life and we want people to enjoy it. the three of us have decided to spend what we do for a living to protect wild life and to protect access and to protect hunting and heritage.

>> they're fellow living beings that live in a very hard scrabble life. they're howling right now because they killed something. whatever it is, they're letting the other coyotes know and they're going to eat it right now and that is what they do. >> if you've ever been out on an open body of water where you're just surrounded by the ocean or the desert or here, actually. >> right. >> you do begin to understand your place in the universe meaning at the end of the day i'm not that different from that pheasant i shot today. >> we are all in it together. the elk and me and the wolves. what we do to the world we do to ourselves. we're all in it together. ♪ ♪ >> as the evening progresses e the bourbon flows and the fire burns down to coals. a light-night vape with joe and the earth seems to shift on its access. later, stumbling out of my tent i find myself somehow no longer

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♪ livingston, montana may be one of the prettiest and oddest towns in america, it's also one of my favorites. originally, a railroad town, where men could drink and philander, then late are, a gateway to the national park. it was a popular setting for hollywood films, and local ranchers began to see a strange mix of creative types showing up, first to work on films, and later to stay and play cowboy for real. writers like tom mcguane and jim harrison, actors like peter fonda, the notorious director,

sam peckinpaugh made livingston their home. the mint bar opened in the 1920s and holds the oldest liquor license in montana. railroad workers used to drink here. everybody drank here. there's a picture of the bar there. >> that picture is this building during prohibition. it was a grocery story.

>> my friend is a jack-of-all-trades and a key figure in the town. this is a rough and tumble cattleman town. >> right. >> why did they put a railroad town here? >> it was x far to minneapolis and x-far to seattle. >> who would exemplify the qualities of a preponderance of montanans would aspire to? >> the american indian, the plainin plains indian, because it was a tough, tough place to live. >> when was the last time you walked outside and looked at those mountains and said i possibly live in the most awesome place on earth. when was the last time that happened? >> i do. i never take this place for granted. okay. it's one of the most beautiful places that i've been, and i like to enjoy the outdoors, take

my son hunting. >> right. >> you know? >> you know, the moment an animal dies, and they look at you, and there's a look in their face, i always interpret it as "i'm very disappointed in you." >> well, as an older hunter, i'm feeling more and more remorse for the animals that i kill. and that's why i use every part of the animal that i can. i have respect for that creature. >> i always felt like, look, whatever this thing i shot, i will treat it the way i would like to be treated. if you're going to shoot me, please, don't just leave me there. >> don't just rip my breasts out and throw my ass away. >> that's a country music song right there. >> don't rip my breasts off. [ laughter ]

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12 months free at mybreo.com. ♪ time moves swiftly through our lives like clouds. riding herd over countless of horses. you know if you're seeing northern lights and the thunder star in the east, and wolves

howling all at once, it's sort of nice. you know there are 90 billion galaxies? i get a little timid when i hear that. >> jim harrison is a colossus, a legend and the last of his time. >> people forget, children grow up making up stories, that's all i'm doing as an adult, you know? >> he is one of america's greatest poets. the author of 39 novels and books, many set in montana, including "the legends of the fall", he's a screenwriter and gourmet. in his food memoir, he chronicles many, many meals. he lives a life that can only be imagined. dan is his friend and confidante, and the two for years have hunted and fished

together. his health prevents him from hunting, but not from enjoying a meal of hungarian par trinl. >> elk liver, elk fat and spices. going to have some beets. quayle quail in aspect. >> using a stock made from 10 pounds of roasted game bird bones. this is my problem with montana of the all this primitive, country-ass cooking that all u local yokels do. >> excellent, jimmy, you want to

grab a couple of morels. >> you have to be delusional or so lucky that, i mean, the forces of the universe are aligned against you. >> the only thing you can do is if you're just completely tenacious and have a disregard for every outside circumstance that there is. most people look in the mirror and say, you know, i'm getting old or something like that. devouring time like lions' paws. that's a little better, huh? >> nice view. i cannot complain about this. >> yeah. >> so what do you do, about a half year here? and half a year in --

>> arizona. >> arizona. >> the culture. ever-present, i tease a lot, and their border patrol plane flies over, and i run under a tree hike i'm hi a like i'm hiding and their vehicles start swarming, and i say i'm trying to keep you on your toes. >> what was it about this place that hooked you? >> well, i'm claustrophobic, acutely so, so montana's about the best place you can live. you never feel hemmed in. you can go miles and miles.

it had been very hot for three weeks, so i worked well into the cool night, one at 3:00 a.m., a big thunderstorm hit, the lightning was relentless, 200 years ago when the cheyenne attacked in this valley. i grew up with the cheyenne and the wolves, the warriors who painted themselves solid yellow. i want to be a yellow wolf of heaven. they disappeared into the lightning. ♪

on this episode of "the united shades of america", we're talking about the police. >> woo. >> one person, everybody else is nervous. [ applause ] >> it's weird, i think it's a weird thing to say out loud, but i've never been arrested. i think it's a weird, humble thing, but if i say it out loud, i'm suddenly running for the nomination of the gop black guy. i've never been arrested, not like those other on,