other the quiet scene, pretty lights all over ♪ ♪ snow is falling and everyone is here together ♪ ♪ santa's sleighbells ringing in the distance some waiting for the mistletoe and kisses ♪ ♪ i'll remember this moment for the rest of my life ♪ ♪ >> aurora: oh my gosh! this is from albert. ♪ it's christmastime >> announcer: we have a request from the audience. [ theme song performed in tagalog ]

♪ sha la la la la sha la la la la la ♪ ♪ sha la la la la sha la la la la la la ♪ ♪ >> anthony: t'was the week before christmas, when all through the house, not a creature was stirring, not even a mouse. actually, that's not true at all. [ horns honk ] metro manila. bustling, sprawling south east asian capital of the philippines. home to somewhere between 12 to 20 million people. the world's most densely populated city.

♪ i light a candle, put the presents around the tree ♪ but it is christmas. a twinkly, festive wonderland where the mostly catholic population take their holiday season very seriously. >> woman: hello! merry christmas. >> anthony: because filipinos are, for reasons i have yet to figure out, probably the most giving of all people on the planet. think i'm talking shit? keep watching. [ motorcycle revving ] >> fritz: good afternoon everyone. we're the band called keystone.

♪ >> anthony: ofw stands for overseas filipino worker, and they are one of the philippines' largest and most important exports. people. go abroad, make money, improve the quality of life for the whole family. all over the world, the philippines sends architects, doctors, construction workers, nurses, housekeepers, nannies. the entire filipino economy relies heavily on the money sent back by more than 10 million ofws. roughly $30 billion u.s. dollars

a year or roughly about 10% of the nation's gdp. until recently, after domestic workers, the largest category of ofw were musicians. like filipino cover bands. they're everywhere. on cruise ships, in hotel lobbies, bars, and of course, in manila. where the competition is fierce and the penalties for not getting a beloved biker favorite like, i don't know, billy idol, can be severe. ♪ ♪ hey little sister what have you done? hey little sister ♪

♪ who's the only one? hey little sister who's your superman? ♪ ♪ hey little sister who's the one you want? hey little sister shotgun ♪ ♪ it's a nice day to start again come on ♪ ♪ it's a nice day for a white wedding it's a nice day to ♪ ♪ start again come on it's a nice day for a ♪ ♪ white wedding it's a nice day to start again ♪ >> anthony: know this, pampered rock and roll stars, at any given moment somewhere in the philippines, there is at least one person, and probably many more, who can step in and do

your act better than you and after only a couple hours of practice. ♪ >> karla: hi ma'am, jolly afternoon! >> anthony: it is true that i lie to my daughter and tell her that ronald mcdonald has been implicated in the disappearance of small children. that i sneer at fast food. revile it at every opportunity. but i am also a hypocrite because to me filipino chain jollibee is the wackiest, jolliest place on earth. >> karla: thank you! hi, sir! >> anthony: hello. hi! >> karla: jolly afternoon! >> anthony: hi, could i have the jolly spaghetti with the hot dogs on it, right? >> karla: yes, sir.

>> anthony: okay, also uh, chickenjoy. thank you! >> karla: thank you sir! jolly afternoon! >> anthony: welcome to jollibee. there are over 900 of these things all over the 7,000 plus philippine islands and a whole lot more internationally wherever there are home-sick filipinos. there's a jollibee in new jersey by the way. [ jollibee theme song ] ♪ >> anthony: i hate mascots. you know they fart in those suits. oh yeah, chicken and spaghetti -- and not just any

spaghetti. i think it's like sweet banana, ketchupy stuff with hotdogs. that spaghetti's deranged, yet strangely alluring. oh, it's not a burger. it's rice! wait. eat it in a piece like pork. sinister brown sauce. i don't know what it's for. wow, that's awesome. that's what you do with the brown stuff. ugh, i hate myself. >> karla: hi ma'am! jolly afternoon! >> anthony: did i mention it's christmas? the 7,000 plus islands that make up the philippines rank number one according to internet "scientitions" when it comes to celebrating the jolliest time of year. holiday cheer begins a full 100 days before the 25th of december, which means there's a

lot to do in this town. especially if you like crashing other people's parties. all right. the party starts! welcome to the seven continents travel and tours corporate christmas party. held in the fabulous banquet room of the downtown pearl garden hotel. outstanding. ♪ ♪ deck the halls with boughs of holly fa la la la la la la ♪ ♪ 'tis the season to all be jolly fa la la la la la la ♪ >> joel: cheers! >> group: cheers! merry christmas! >> anthony: very catholic country? >> joel: very catholic country, 80-something percent. christmas starts in september. >> anthony: really? in september? >> joel: starting in september you go to the mall, you start hearing their carols and then it ends after -- >> anthony: i would lose my mind! >> patricia: yeah. so at 12:00 midnight of september one, everyone greets merry christmas on facebook.

>> anthony: uh, it's a lechon on the menu i believe. >> joel: yeah. >> anthony: yes? i have very fond memories of the last time i had lechon in the philippines. in fact, not to kiss your ass, but it's the finest -- >> joel: pig. >> anthony: pig i've ever had. amazing. providing these babies to holiday parties is big business. and standards here where pork is king and the lechon the best in the world very, very high. today, our little friend is prepared the old-school way. turned slowly, slowly on a spit over coals for hours. oh delicious, delicious lechon. ♪ >> patricia: you know, during this time of the year there's a lot of christmas parties and the lechon is always the star of the party. >> joel: you can gauge how grand the party is by the presence of the lechon. if you have two lechons, you must be a big shot!

>> anthony: man, that is good pig. >> jimmy: so my name is jimmy belleza and i'm the hr director, and i'm also the happiness guru of the philippines. and we happen to have a season to be jolly. ♪ ♪ dashing through the snow in a one horse open sleigh ♪ >> anthony: as we all know, one must at a holiday party drink. then get drunk and tell off the boss. this, i expected and was prepared to do. but the games, i was a little surprised by. wow, ladies! ♪ oh what fun it is to ride in a one horse open sleigh ♪ >> jimmy: musical chairs!

>> anthony: then, if i remember correctly, i totally kicked ass at a game of drunken musical chairs, but i can't be absolutely certain. ♪ jingle bells jingle bells jingle all the way ♪ i told them that i was bob from accounting. when they find out, things could get awkward. ♪ jingle bells jingle bells jingle all the way ♪ ♪ oh what fun it is to ride in a one horse open sleigh ♪ ♪ jingle bells jingle bells jingle all the way ♪ ♪ oh what fun it is to ride in a one horse open sleigh ♪ i am totally blind.

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♪ >> anthony: hello. halo-halo please. >> woman: one halo-halo! >> anthony: thanks so much. thank you, ladies.

>> woman: thank you, sir. >> anthony: oh! this is wonderful. i don't even know what half of these ingredients are. i mean it's delicious, but how is it made? what's in it? let's find out. >> woman: halo-halo! >> anthony: halo-halo means mix-mix. >> woman: banana. >> anthony: and it is delicious. >> woman: nata de coco. munggo. >> anthony: looking good! an icy, milky, technicolor concoction of sundry boiled sweet mung beans, candied fruits, and gelatins. >> woman: sweet coconut. >> anthony: oh yeah. >> woman: milk! delicious. delicious. >> anthony: this is a wonderful creation. it's got that kind of like, i feel like the fruit loops marinate in the milk for a while, and the milk kind of

tastes like this. yeah, you want one? >> woman: thank you. you say thank you! >> anthony: it's okay! very satisfying. yeah, i recommend it. ♪ ♪

♪ >> anthony: this looks really good. night in metro-manila, and i'm ready for my single favorite filipino street food. possibly the best thing you could ever eat with a cold beer. i'm talking of course about sisig. hot sizzling pig face with a runny egg on top, and bitch, you better ask somebody because nothing is getting in between me

and this spicy, chewy, fatty goodness. you got to mix it up and go? >> eric: there's a lot of sisig restaurants here, but here's one is the best. >> anthony: this is really, really good. this evening's dining companions, cover band regatta. ♪ jingle bells jingle bells jingle all the way ♪ you may remember them from such epic office christmas parties as last night's. this is the christmas season. a lot of christmas parties? >> woman: yeah! >> eric: there's a lot. >> anthony: a lot of work? >> woman: yeah. >> man: it's a big season. >> anthony: all over southeast asia any hotel lobby, any hotel bar, there's a filipino band. >> woman: exactly. >> anthony: i've sat there drunk and challenged band after band, shirley bassey -- no problem! all of "dark side of the moon" -- no problem. all of guns n' roses -- no problem. >> eric: that is true.

>> anthony: music and singing are a huge part of life in the philippines, so making it as a cover band, being sent abroad to perform is a big deal. but one thing remains the same always. to succeed, you better be able to pick up new material, fast. >> eric: whitney houston, celine dion, tony braxton, beatles and elvis presley. >> anthony: how many songs in your repertoire? around how many? >> eric: thousands already. >> anthony: and if you don't know it you pretty much can fake it real quick. >> woman: yeah. >> anthony: five years from now, where would you like to be? where would you like to be playing? >> eric: that's a good question. like my biggest dream is to play in las vegas in the u.s. this is my dream. >> man: when we get to the dream, you know, playing in las vegas, we want to play first

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♪ >> mall santa: ho ho ho! merry christmas, everyone! ho ho! merry christmas! merry christmas, everyone! ho ho ho! merry christmas! ho ho ho! merry christmas, everyone! ho ho ho! happy new year, too! >> anthony: despite initial appearances, the philippines is not all holiday cheer, warm hellos, and dancing bugs. ♪

♪ the filipino national martial art kali is among the most brutal, the most remorseless defense systems going. it was developed to deal with some very harsh realities and a very tough, very bloody history. three centuries of brutal spanish colonial rule. invasion by the japanese. near the end of world war ii, american forces bombed manila,

pretty much leveling the city. ferdinand and imelda marcos's extravagantly corrupt regime. martial law. although the philippines has remained a democracy since then, it can seem at times fragile. ♪ [ crowd cheering ] >> anthony: cheers, everyone. now you're both photojournalists. >> ben: yup. >> anthony: based out of manila? >> ben: yeah, uh, me. marc lives in mindanao. >> anthony: mindanao. now does a journalist need to carry a firearm in this country? >> marc: for me, yes. >> anthony: in the philippines, a press badge is no defense, particularly in the south of the country where marc navales lives

and works. >> ben: mindanao has been war-torn for the last how many years? because of the radicalization of recent years, this growing specter of isis, mindanao is fertile grounds for that. >> anthony: now traditionally the argument against journalists arming themselves is that journalists have always been able to portray themselves as noncombatants. >> marc: yes. >> anthony: there was some presumption that they would not shoot you. >> ben: yeah. >> anthony: but these days, people seem to not make that distinction. >> ben: yes. dating back to the marcos years even. >> marc: since 1992, 77 journalists were killed. >> anthony: politics here can be deadly. just before christmas in 2009, the maguindanao massacre claimed the lives of 58 people. dozens of whom were journalists. it was the single deadliest event for journalists in history. marc was the first one on the scene with a camera. >> ben: there is no system of justice. there is no government attending

to your needs. >> anthony: nobody is coming to save you, is that what you're saying? >> marc: no one's coming to save you. you know, i have my family, i have my small kids. for me, my last recourse there is to defend myself. >> anthony: it's very much a do-it-yourself culture. you see that. you can see it in people's homes, the way they are just stacked one on top of each other, built out using spare bits of metal. it's like, "nobody else is going to get it for me. i'll build it. i'll make it myself." >> ben: right. >> anthony: there's a lot of poverty in this city, that is for sure. but there's not a sense of hopelessness or rage. you know they decorate. you know, they may not have much but they decorate. they sweep the street. >> ben: yes, they sweep. there's still a sense of humble ownership in the sense that this is my home and it's going to be safe. it's going to be fine.

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♪ >> anthony: in any metropolis you find all the good and the bad in the world. manila being bigger than most has plenty of both. yet, this is a nation of 7,000 islands, and i really wanted to

see at least one more of them. but i learned about something filipinos are only too familiar with -- the typhoon. so it looks like it's gonna be christmas in the city. ♪ >> anthony: thank you. cheers. ♪ ♪ i never meant to be so bad to you

one thing i said that ♪ ♪ i would never do one look from you and i would fall from grace ♪ ♪ and that would wipe this smile right from my face 'cause it's the heat ♪ ♪ of the moment telling me what your heart meant ♪ ♪ heat of the moment shone in your eyes ♪ >> anthony: name of the band is? >> fritz: keystone. >> anthony: keystone? >> fritz: yes. >> anthony: how long you've been playing together? >> fritz: around five years. five years. >> anthony: five years. >> shane: all right guys, here we go. adobo is in the house. >> anthony: looking pretty. >> shane: thank you, thank you! >> anthony: as one does, i dragooned the band keystone into lunch assuming, correctly as it turned out, that one of these young punks would know how to make a good adobo. is there a single authentic adobo recipe or does everybody do it differently?

>> shane: everyone would stake claim to having the best adobo, but the basic ingredients i think will remain the same. so it's garlic, pork, we can now add the chicken, vinegar, peppercorns, bay leaf, soy sauce. >> anthony: mmm, this adobo is amazing. i mean, it's really, really good. >> shane: oh man, thank you, thank you. >> anthony: it's delicious. and where did you learn to cook adobo? >> shane: i learned this from my mom. >> anthony: so the answer as always to who makes the best adobo is, mom makes the best adobo! >> shane: that would be the -- that would be the safest answer. mom. >> anthony: filipinos like feeding people. >> fritz: yes, yes. >> anthony: what else do filipinos like? >> shane: filipinos are hospitable. everybody knows how to sing. they don't necessarily have to be in tune, but they want to sing, they like to sing. >> fritz: we've been listening to music from like a very young age.

>> shane: i'm the drummer for the band, but i'm not actually formally trained. up to this day i don't even read notes, but i could memorize a song like if you gave it to me in a day. i could play the whole thing out. >> anthony: well that's -- that's pretty much the -- you have to. right? i mean -- >> shane: yeah. >> anthony: now, you guys have played abroad? >> shane: no. >> anthony: whoa! >> shane: so, it's one of the goals actually. >> anthony: five years from now, where would you like to be? >> shane: well, hopefully we get to -- we get to play for a bigger crowd, you know, because i think the fulfillment for me is actually getting more people to enjoy the music. ♪ heat of the moment heat of the moment shone in your eyes ♪ ♪ heat of the moment heat of the moment heat of the moment shone in your eyes ♪

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♪

♪ ♪ i'm waiting for you to come back to me i'm hoping you make it home early ♪ ♪ if santa came down he'd never be leaving ♪ >> anthony: filipinos speak about home with immense pride and love. and if you're an overseas filipino worker, longing. >> man in street: good looking! >> anthony: especially during the holidays. >> aurora: come in, come in! hello. merry christmas. god bless you.

hi! >> anthony: it's always, always about family in the philippines or anywhere you find filipinos. for christmas of course everybody, those who can anyway, gets together like family matriarch aurora and her daughter analyn. >> aurora: okay, analyn, you're a big help. >> anthony: and emy and ruben, her adopted children. >> aurora: emy, can you help me? that bay leaf. wow, it smells so good. >> anthony: also cousins, nieces, nephews, grandchildren, even some great-grandchildren. >> aurora: la la la la la la. i love cooking! i really love cooking. kare-kare is one of the favorite of the filipino people. and to make a kare-kare, i use tripe, and i put the oxtail on the pressure cooker. >> rubin: wow wow wow!

>> aurora: now the peanut butter! >> rubin: here are the peanut butter, mother. >> aurora: peanut butter, please. no more, no more. now the banana blossom. >> emy: the eggplant. >> aurora: the eggplant, the eggplant. ♪ oh, holy night the stars are brightly shining ♪ here is the kare-kare. i hope everybody will enjoy this. okay. it is time to eat! ♪ >> children: we have received from your bounty, through christ our lord. amen. >> aurora: amen. i'm hungry! although, we always say it's

ladies first, i think we'll serve you. >> anthony: it's okay this time? just this once. so good. >> aurora: yeah. >> anthony: so how long have you been back? in the philippines? >> aurora: in the philippines, three years. >> anthony: three years now. >> aurora: yeah. >> anthony: where have you worked? hong kong for five years. >> aurora: for five years, and then i went to america. i stayed there for almost 30 years. >> anthony: aurora is recently back in manila after most of her life spent abroad. what kind of work were you doing? >> aurora: i did the housekeeping, you know, and babysitting. >> anthony: the money she sent home put everybody here and many, many more through school, lifted them up to a more comfortable life. and you would have left family behind? >> aurora: yeah. >> anthony: to go out there and make money. that's never an easy decision, a painful, painful choice. aurora's children, now middle-aged, are finally getting to know their mother.

>> aurora: okay, okay, okay. bring in the food inside. >> anthony: many, many, many filipino women like you who had to leave their families, go abroad. >> aurora: yeah, absolutely yes. >> analyn: her three children. >> emy: children -- my eldest is about four years now in qatar, and the other one is two years, and the other one is in hong kong. >> anthony: working conditions, for ofws, particularly in some gulf states, can be punishing at best, abusive or worse. >> emy: i'm a single mom with my two grandchildren. i really cried a lot, especially this holiday season. >> anthony: still, due to lack of opportunity at home, many filipinos have little choice but to go. somewhere far away. find a job, money. but hopefully in a few years, you think they come back?

>> emy: yes. i really asked them to go home because i'm not getting younger anymore. i need them with my side. i tell them, several times they call me up, please get home soon. i need you. this beer has conviction. for us, it's rocky mountain water... ...or nothing. coors banquet. that's how it's done. i am totally blind. i lost my sight in afghanistan. if you're totally blind, you may also be struggling with non-24. calling 844-844-2424. or visit my24info.com. but my back pain was making it hard to sleep and open up on time. then i found aleve pm. the only one to combine a safe sleep aid plus the 12 hour pain relieving strength of aleve. now i'm back. aleve pm for a better am.

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♪ >> anthony: any filipino watching will recognize this immediately. the balikbayan box. a christmas tradition. a way for ofws to show loved ones, though separated by oceans, that you miss them, that you're still out there. what's in these boxes? whatever you can send. little things you'd casually give to a loved one if you didn't live on the other side of the world. this facility alone sorts thousands of these boxes a day during the christmas season, just one of hundreds of facilities like it.

some 5 to 7 million boxes a year. that's a lot of love. so how many relatives do you think you have in america? >> aurora: in america, oh my gosh. >> analyn: florida. >> aurora: california, albert. >> rubin: my ate -- my other sister is in california. >> analyn: in hong kong, we have at least ten. >> aurora: and then dubai around eight, in qatar. >> anthony: i'm at this christmas gathering today because of one of our directors, erik osterholm. it was aurora who raised him. for over 20 years she cared for and loved erik and his sister, looked after his whole family. erik sent me a letter talking about you. i want to read you what he said. "aurora is such an incredible woman. she has an infectious and loving energy that is so powerful.

i am 100% the man i am today, because this woman literally raised me from when i was six months old -- singing to me, dancing with me, wiping away my tears, cooking for me and making me laugh at every turn. unfortunately like so many filipinos, her story is not all smiles and love. she had to choose a life away from her daughter and thousands of miles from her family. there are literally thousands of people around the world -- thousands of people around the world, me included, who have been influenced by her endless kindness and love." filipinos give. of themselves, of their time, their money, their love to others. they do and continue to do what needs to be done to survive. ♪ ♪ edelweiss, edelweiss

every morning i greet you ♪ ♪ small and white clean and bright bless my homeland forever ♪ ♪ blossom of snow may you bloom and grow bloom and grow forever ♪ ♪ edelweiss, edelweiss

bless my homeland forever ♪ ♪ ♪ >> aurora: oh my gosh. oh this is from albert.

oh, my gosh. wow! oh, my gosh! i really hope you enjoy the simple gift i sent and i know that my heart is with you always. i love you very much. albert. ♪ ♪ joy to the world the lord is come let earth receive ♪ ♪ her king

let every heart prepare him room ♪ ♪ and heaven and nature sing and heaven and nature sing and heaven and heaven ♪ ♪ and nature sing he rules the world with truth and grace ♪ ♪ and make the nations prove the glories of his righteousness ♪ ♪ and wonders of his love and wonders of his love and wonders, wonders ♪

♪ of his love [ applause ] >> anthony: i'm told you're a man who can help me. sometime in mid-19th century, 1850s, my great-great-great-grandfather jean bourdain emigrated to south america. he was reported to have died here. might have been a seeker of utopian dreams. you know, my aunt used to tell stories he was into arms