it is easily the most contentious real estate in the world. there is no hope of talking about it without missing somebody, if not everybody off. maybe that's why it's taken so long to come here. even the names of ordinary things are disputed. why does falafel come from and who makes the best hummus. is it a fence or a wall. by the end of this hour, i will

be seen as a sympathizer and a self-hating jew and orientalist, socialist, fascist, cia agent, and worse. here goes nothing. ♪

i was raised without religion. one side of the family long ago was catholic, i think. the other side, jewish. i never have been in a synagogue. i don't believe in a higher power, but that doesn't make me any less jewish, i don't think. these guys sandbagging me don't seem to think so either. >> i'm only half. >> jewish? >> yes.

[speaking foreign language] >> mazel tov. >> thank you, gentlemen. >> i never felt so much like i'm masquerading like something i'm not. i'm hostile to devotion. certainly is my enemy. i'm all about doubt and questioning one's self and the reality constantly. when they grabbed hold of me in a totally non-judgmental way, they are happy to have you and here you go.

oh, man. my treachery is complete. >> just because i was raised outside the faith doesn't mean that plenty of people on this earth don't hate me in principal. i know that. the state of israel, i never knew what to think. the first look around, it's pretty and awesome and sophisticated and hip. like southern california, only nicer. then you see the young draftees in the streets and you start to get the idea. this is one of the old walls. they are pretty ancient.

they go back to king david. the brits came and conquered us. i wasn't here. >> born here and now cooking in london. that's the coauthor. >> this city is divided until 1967. we are traveling in now and walking in. >> for the news, the city has been unified.

they are under occupation as far as they are concerned. it's so much a part of the culture here. it has been done for generations here. you can get falafel that has just been fried. >> it's a whole different animal, isn't it? >> the one thing that is clear in this part of the world. >> palestine, lebanon, and syria. on the other hand you get jews from yemen. >> my great uncle was in syria and i remembered instinctively.

>> but the question of food appropriation or who owns the food. we are arguing about it. there is a christian quarter and armenian quarter. each functions now we are walking in the streets of jesus christ.

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one, two, - wait, wait. wait - where's tina? doing the hand thing? yep! we are all in for our customers. ally. do it right. >> the wall stretches 450 miles. when completed it will span 700

miles. 85% in palestinian territory. on one hand, there is no doubt the number of suicide bombings fell drastically. on the other, there is this. we cross from jerusalem into the west bank. called judea and sa maria and palestine. since 1967, half a million settlers have moved here. all in contravention of international law. many in contravention of israely law, but it seems to make little difference. they are here in ever larger numbers. this is one of the drivers from tel aviv who i asked about the graffiti on the house near the settlements. what is price tagging? >> if something happens in the

settlement with the jews, kids would come and have a price tag for every activity. they come to a village like this and destroy cars and write on walls like this. it's against arabs and israel is alive and death to the arabs. >> intimidatinintimidating. you put two targets on my house, i'm moving. this is ellie. a settlement with a population of over 3,000. relatively isolated from the rest of israel. cohen is the chief executive and the former head of security. >> he is seen from up above from most of the town. most of the villages all-around. >> it's an unusual situation. a lot of your neighbors would like you to not be here. >> i know most of them and most of them are happy we are here. because we gave them prosperity for the past 45 years and

wherever the plo came, they lost it. >> a lot of people would disagree with that statement. >> i worked with high tech security radars and cameras. >> you can see them walking at night from far out? >> definitely. >> could you identify them? >> depends. we have our protocols we work with. we had our successes. we drive to another settlement. hot, sun bleached suburban feeling. the sensors of security, everything they feel they need. a school, public transportation

and a petting zoo. >> he lived here for 23 years and is a wine maker and amateur took. wow. you are not kidding around. >> the salmon is marinated with pomegranate juice and i will have iear around. >> whereere you before here? >> i was born in pennsylvania. >> your parents brought you over. were they short? >> yeah. >> parents in their 20s with kids living in the familiarity

of pennsylvania. it must have seemed uncertain. >> it was very difficult. next year it's part of prayers that we say all the time. >> i noticeded that it's all right there. it's all right there. that's negotiable. >> you see prophesies coming true. mountains that nobody wanted to live on. nobody dared. for thousands of years, nobody wanted this place. finally we come here. everything is flourishing and it makes you feel good. >> you have been here since 90. you look over the edge there. >> yeah. there is one that you can see. >> at any point, you go to anybody a's house and sat down d

eat. >> ever sat at a muslim table? >> your host and anybody else? >> coffee and as a religious jew, i eat only kosher. they help that. they don't offer. >> i have to ask you about some of this coming up. the first house before you come up the drive to this village. the graffiti on the front. >> yes. >> the targets spray painted on. who done it? >> villains. bad people. >> kids? >> no one. apparently kids. when you educate kids, they are not able to understand complicated things. when you get older, you can see the gray.

when someone hits you. >> i understand why kids are doing it. given what you told me earlier, identifying the perpetrator is within the helm of possibility? >> young people. >> why not paint it over? >> good question. i don't know. maybe we should. you're right. >> elsewhere in the west bank just outside of ramallah. meet betty and mona. two members of a group of women who call themselves the speed sisters. the first all female palestinian

racing team. >> hi. good to meet you. >> when i'm riding in a car, it's in my blood. here in palestine, it's very small. there is no roads. when i drive, i speed. i feel free. >> did you find that people under estimated you at first? >> at the beginning, they could maybe make fun of us, but when we got good scores. >> it doesn't matter. a woman or a man. a lot of girls wanted to join us. some of the families are very reserved. they don't like their daughters to be between men racing. they are a very reserved sight.

>> is it better, staying the same or worse? >> you never know what's going to happen in palestine. one day it's good and the other day you never know. it's a crazy country. >> the local police prefer them off the streets for obvious reasons, butt track such as it is has drawbacks. it is basically a parking lot across from the detention center. >> what did they think? did they give you problems? >> this is an israeli jail. one time we were here with sweet sisters and there was problems because of the prisoners. i just stopped my car over there and i was working. i wanted to see what's going on. the israely soldiers started shooting at me and i got shot in the back. it was tear gas. >> the canister hit you? >> yes. they took me to the hospital.

i fainted. >> have you thought of challenging the israelis? >> i can't race. my car is palestinian. >> what if they come over here. >> they are not allowed to enter the west bank and we can't go to jerusalem. how can we race together? >> silly question. asleep at night. (vo) soft, firm, or hybrid... our three collections pair up to create the perfect bed for two. there's more than one tempur-pedic. get between you and life's dobeautiful moments.llergens flonase gives you more complete allergy relief. most allergy pills only control one inflammatory substance. flonase controls 6. and six is greater than one. flonase changes everything. ♪ now that fedex has helped us we could focus on bigger issues, like our passive aggressive environment. we're not passive aggressive. hey, hey, hey, there are no bad suggestions here... no matter how lame they are. well said, ann.

i've always admired how you just say what's in your head, without thinking. very brave. good point ted. you're living proof that looks aren't everything. thank you. welcome. so, fedex helped simplify our e-commerce business and this is not a passive aggressive environment. i just wanted to say, you guys are doing a great job. what's that supposed to mean? fedex. helping small business simplify e-commerce. i'm claudine and i quit smoking with chantix. smoking's a monkey on my back. it was, it was always controlling your time, your actions, your money. it had me. it had me. i would not be a non-smoker today if it wasn't for chantix. along with support, chantix (varenicline) is proven to help people quit smoking. chantix reduced my urge to smoke some people had changes in behavior, thinking or mood, hostility, agitation, depressed mood and suicidal thoughts or actions while taking or after stopping chantix. some had seizures while taking chantix. if you have any of these, stop chantix and call your doctor right away. tell your doctor about any history of mental health problems, which could get worse or of seizures. don't take chantix if you've had a serious allergic or skin reaction to it. if you have these,

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it's right there for all to see. and it feels like something out of a science fiction film. this is the wall. from the other side, from inside this place, for instance, the refugee camp in the district of bethlehem doesn't feel like anything other than what it is. a prison. this is the founder of the children's theater center. >> we are at the north entrance of bethlehem heading to the camp. >> this has been here since 1950. >> yes. it started with tents and people were under the tents for about seven years and later on they

saw it was not what it was supposed to be and they built shelters. >> the first impressions of the camp, there is a remarkable number of kids. >> now it's about 6,000 people and two thirds are under 18 years old. it's a very young population. with the political and economic situation, we are in a situation where we have no playgrounds or green spaces anymore. >> children play in the streets beneath walls covereded with plane hijackers and political prisoners. >> 6,000 people. of that number, 6 percent per are under 18. i don't care where that is in the world, that's a recipe for unruly behavior. >> especially when you don't

have any possibilities to evacuate. after i finished my studies, i came back here and started using theater as one of the most amazing, powerful, civilized and nonviolent ways to express yourself. this is for me to build the peace within and help them to think they can grow up and change the world and create miracles. to stay alive. >> he takes me to the camp to be get. she runs a women's collective and helping her provide for six children, one of whom is disabled. >> the kids grow up with pop stars and sports player.

it's unbelievable for a child to look up to a politician or a military figure. sports or entertainment. here, kids four or five years old, every day. they are looking to somebody who brought down a plane. i'm not questioning why that is. >> i know. >> do you think it's helpful? >> i guess we have a history. we are people who are under occupation. they resist occupation. and to tell you the truth, sometimes i have been one day put images of people who are killed in their own houses. my sister on the 29th of october, 2001, she was killed in her kitchen by a sniper from the

intercontinental. when these political parties take these women and wants to make a montage of photos with her gun and say this is the hero, sorry. this is not true. this woman was killed in her house. who will they recognize? they recognize a singer. he became more famous and this is rooranother image of palesti. >> you can almost believe for a minute or two that some kind of

peace, some kind of reconciliation, meeting of the minds, sanity is possible after you visit this restaurant in what looks like an idyllic area. it feels like an alternate universe for a number of reasons. he is jewish. this woman is muslim. they are partners, coowners, and also married. they are unsurprisingly friends. they grow and raise much of what is used in their kitchen. their food reflects their backgrounds and commonalities. >> we are going to spoil you now. >> here you go.

>> you grew up in this town? where? >> near the beach. >> not the neighborhood. >> we met there and we worked together. >> how did that go down with the family? >> now wonderful. they started with questions and answers and they know we love each other and can't do nothing and we continue. they support us. >> this is your special fried eggs and set up. >> farm eggs and peppers from your garden. tomato. that looks awesome. this is incredibly beautiful

here. i don't know why i didn't expect that. >> a lot of people come and say that. >> you like okra? >> i do. roasted tomatoes, okra? >> onion and mint. that's all it is. what they do is char the hell out of it so it's smokey just being being in high heat. >> so generally who lives in this area? mostly arab? ethnically arab? >> only muslim. and only jewish in the village. >> and this? >> zucchini that has been grill and yogurt.

it's that intense flavor. very typical for palestinian cooking. >> that's good. i just had this incredibly delicious meal oblivious to the fact that it's entirely vegetarian. if new york served food that was this good that was vegetarian, i would consider it. and this? >> fresh zucchini with beans. >> sweet apricots? >> are you hopeful? >> of course. >> i help her religion and she respects my religion and together we build something for our kids and the future. that's what we think and what we give the message for our customers.

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from israel is one of the most surreal travel experiences you can have on earth. over 1 hadn't 5 million people live in gaza. most of them considered refugees. they are not from a place they are compelled to live now. in most places, they are prohibited from or unable to leave. israel decides who comes and goes. what gets in and what stays out. apart from journaists, aid workers and emergency responders and few people are allowed to cross into gaza. in 2005, the defense forces left the gaza strip and all israeli settlers were removed. now inside gaza, hamas is in charge. considered a terrorist organization by both the united states and israel, they got elected in 2006.

>> this is layla, a native gaza an and author of the gaza kitchen. >> the catches are not as big as they used to be. that's primarily because the fishermen cannot go beyond three to six nautical miles. >> what happens? >> they will spray cold water at them and destroy their boats and cut their nets and detain them. it's risky business. nine nautical miles is where the channel is. where you get the good catches. gaza is the last area with access to the coast. that's important to remember. the west bank is a mile away,

but many of them have never been to the sea. >> this family owns a small farm in the eastern gaza strip. she and her husband are unusual in that they cook together. this is not typical in this part of the world or in this culture. they use their own fresh killed chickens to make the gaza classic. the dish com surprised of fried eggplant, potato, tomatoes, onions and chicken, saute and simmered with nutmeg, cinnamon, card mom and rice. it's a big family. children and grandchildren all living under the same roof. it can get chaotic. >> so let's talk about food and eat food. what do we have here?

>> this is traditionally made with lamb, but in this case with chicken. they are very concerned that we are being rude and not allowing the others to eat. he said how can you be eating? >> wow! >> for me being from gaza, being a child here, i thought food was an interesting way to tell the palestinian story. to be able to discover this lost history, this palestinian past. plus the food is really good. >> that it is. >> i think it was also important to be able to provide palestinians an image that they recognize. humane image. all they see in the media whether here or there is this

kind of very characteristic images with this grim cinder block landscape. you are not entering into the private homes. what does a kitchen look like or a family you see here. >> do you like this? >> delicious. it's really, really good. >> she wants you to open a restaurant for her. >> if they look like this, it's delicious. >> gaza has three distinctive heritages. those who hail from the villages that were depopulated or destroyed in 1978. that's about 75% of the population. they bring their own distinction. that's different from the cuisine of the city that tends to use much more heat. much more chili peppers from the

cuisine of the coast. that's rich with seafood and a very sophisticated cuisine. in your lifetime, the first question is will you be able to visit? >> she said she hopes she can. she wants to go to jerusalem as well. she is optimistic. yeah. she is saying you are not allowing us to. then self corrected and said the israelis are not allowing us to. this is the normal tone of voice. he is not upset. this is how we talk. >> what's he saying?

>> give me a permit and of course i will go. oh. well, i'm heading back to my room. (announcer) want to wake up at super bowl 51? super bowl! (announcer) enter courtyard's super bowl sleepover contest at courtyard.com for your chance to win. and you're talking to youro doctor about your medication... this is humira. this is humira helping to relieve my pain and protect my joints from further damage. this is humira helping me go further. humira works for many adults. it targets and helps to block a specific source of inflammation that contributes to ra symptoms. humira has been clinically studied for over 18 years. humira can lower your ability to fight infections, including tuberculosis. serious, sometimes fatal infections and cancers, including lymphoma, have happened, as have blood, liver and nervous system problems, serious allergic reactions, and new or worsening heart failure. before treatment, get tested for tb.

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layla has something to show me that peaked her interest. off we go. this will take a minute. we arrive at what looks like a pretty serious gathering. we were soon joined by her husband, abu. >> where the elders gather to resolve community problems and kind of advise. >> all these guys are originally from an area that is part of israel and they are bound by traditions and a way of life that is different from here. they have been relocate and lived since 1948. >> does he think he will go to his ancestral homeland in his lifetime or children's time?

>>. >> the enemy is back here. we understand that. >> what they are making now is basically baby watermelon. under ripe watermelon. this is a specialty of southern gaza. that is something that is made by men i was hold. they are fire roasting the baby watermelons. they

they are going to clean it up. >> it's bigger. >> many, if not most of the guys aren't too sympathetic to my country or my ethnicity, i'm guessing. but there is the hospitality thing. anywhere you go in the muslim world it seems, no matter what, you feed your guests, you do your best to make them feel at home. >> oh, we have to eat. maybe we should. [ speaks arabic ] >> you are supposed to eat this with your hands. mmm, very good. [ speaks arabic ] >> he's saying if you eat this you shouldn't have another meal for 3 days. >> anthony: where do this dish come from originally? >> this is a dish that's native to southern gaza, the

sinai, the uh-sort of the desert bedouin areas. >> all the food i have had so far in gaza has been very different than in anything else i've had in the arab world. it's a different flavor spectrum. >> yeah. totally. it is kind of its own little gastronomical bubble. >> elder man 3: why are you not using a spoon? >> you know, i find that the food has more flavor, i get a better sensory experience. [ speaks arabic ] even children like to eat with their hands. [ speaks arabic ] >> he's saying god gave us hands to eat with, not spoons. [ laughs ] hey! nikki! what are you doing here? you tell me, stephen. what? i'm snapping. you've been streaming my videos all morning. now you're with this thing? no! it's not you! it's verizon! they limit my data. i had to choose. come on, girl. let's get us a man with unlimited data.

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>> one can be forgiven for thinking when you see how similar they are, the two peoples, both of them cook with pride, eat with passion, love their kids, love the land on which they live or that they dream of returning to. who live so close, who are locked in such an intimate if deadly embrace, might somehow, someday, figure out how to live with each other. but that would be very mushy

thinking indeed. those things in the end probably don't count for much at all. nate dalkowitz runs a restaurant just 5 miles from the gaza strip. >> you and your family have paid the worst imaginable price. >> yes, my daughter was killed by a mortar sent by hamas. >> in some israeli towns and villages within close proximity of the gaza strip, bus stops double as bomb shelters and air raid sirens warn of incoming missiles fired from less than a mile away. rockets and mortar shells have been known to fall from the sky in these parts and no one understands the consequences more than this man. >> you were not a fervent ideological zionist. >> no. >> you're not an orthodox jew. >> no. >> and yet here you are at the spear point, right at the tip.

uh, there's your restaurant. >> this is a shelter. >> there's a shelter. here you are. >> after the death of my daughter, i just start to talk. >> to who? >> to people who want to listen. i know that my daughter was killed, for no reason. and i know that people on the other side have been killed for no reason. childrens, old people, in gaza. i was a soldier in gaza. i saw very poor people. i know there is interest in keeping these poor people. you can go far, far. but the bottom line is let's stop with the suffering. >> you know i went to the settler community and i said to you, you know, they were nice and you said they're all nice. >> they are all nice. i know nice, very nice palestinian people.

>> they're all nice but if you scratch, if you push, they'll all say throw them in the sea. >> most of the people they don't talk, they are very upset, they are fed up. and the same goes for the other side, to us. >> you have to find the right people on both village, also on the down, and also on the up, and may they talk, and i am sure that is possible. >> the opportunities to do that here are very, very, very limited it seems. >> i agree. >> and, i mean, one doesn't it even have to speak metaphorically because there is an actual wall. >> there is a wall. i agree.

>> or a fence depending on who you're talking to. >> fence or wall, oh, no it's a big wall, ugly, it's really ugly. you can see it, it's not far away from here. ♪ >> there's no place else even remotely like it. everything great and all the world's ills all in one glorious messed up magical and maddening city. ♪