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tv   Anthony Bourdain Parts Unknown  CNN  November 13, 2016 9:00pm-10:01pm PST

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replace them and the jail's daily cycle and challenges continue. [ speaking japanese ]
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♪ ♪ >> this is the restaurant masa in new york city. ducked away on the frth floor of the time warner center on
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coluc columbus circle. it is america's most expensive restaurant. dinner here costs around $600 per person before extra pieces of the most outrageously high quality tuna on the planet. they're unparalleled. often flown in from japan or grown specially to this man's specifications. this is masa. to call him the most respected sushi chef would be an injustice as he is more than that. much more. what set him apart and took him from a bleak charming community in rural japan to become first the toast of los angeles and later the king of new york? it is a fascinating story. it's the capitol on the west
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coast along the sea of japan. it's known for its untouched by time traditional districts. one of the few cities in japan left intact throughout the war. it's famous for its crafts, for its beautiful ceramics in particular but also it's artistic sensibility. for most it's simply a place with great seafood. >> look at that. >> a lot of crab. >> yeah. >> look at that. favorite things has a limited te season in japan. from september to april and it's
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tastiest in winter. >> good. >> from here? >> hgood deal. >> another specialty at or near it's best. juicy and sweet and delicious. >> that is good. >> very. >> good. really food. >> thank you. very good. >> grilled on a stick. >> these are are the size of
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clown shoes. >> it's like as big as a steak. >> thank you. >> french style. >> wow. >> wow that's good. ♪
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it gained widespread popularity in the late 18th century. wearing elaborate kimono costumes and make up they're paid to entertain by singing, dancing, drinking, making older men feel good and welcome for an hour, maybe two. one of only 15 or so left. >> these tea houses which at one time numbered in the 100s provide a stage at which there are only about 50 left working in the city. he credits her with teaching him many things about culture, life
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and presumably about women. >> this is a hard thing to do. >> they need to learn other stuff. >> music, stories, dance. >> a lot of work. >> a lot of work. >> cheers. >> what brought you here first. >> when i was young, i have never seen that kind of stuff. that kind of shock. i was a country boy. i learn from her culture. they teach me. this is my second country.
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>> owned and run by four generations within the same family, it is a traditional restaurant that dates back to 1890 a multicourse meal with an entirely new menu presented every few weeks in response to the changing seasons and the seasonality of the products available in the region. everything is considered. the taste of course how to best prepare a particular fish and plant at the very peak. presentation even the ceramic dishes on which each dish is served changes constantly. leaves, flowers, elements of nature. the first of 8 dishes intended to resemble a sword.
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>> when you first went to the u. s. how old were you? >> 27. >> did you have a job when you went? >> no, i play golf. >> no way. >> but art class the teacher told me american kids they draw flat straight line. house, tree. just mountain first and the house, right? i go to u.s. to see huge land. that's my dream, you know? >> grilled rock fish steamed in smoking worm wood. >> very good. >> bamboo shoots prepared table side with soy sauce.
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>> that's fantastic. really good. >> salted and pressed between leaves of kelp for two hours. next to it flounder. it's skin gently rubbed with grilled tomato the day before. finally clam hot pot. then topped with plump plum and clams as well as creamy sea urchin and japanese blossom for good measure. simple and perfect. >> awesome. >> some people go that way. >> most people go this way, yes. they choose security. >> maybe. >> it's an unusual way of thinking. have to make my own way.
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>> i agree with that. whether they can take over family business. have to do something. i went to tokyo and realize wow this is a different world. what could i do? second brother -- >> second brother syndrome. >> exactly. >> it was awesome. >> good to see you again.
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>> gave me another idea. >> >> 40 years he is doing it. >> learn a simple clean line. >> look at it. >> we become great friends. >> and then designing too. i have an image in my head. i start drawing then i come all the way here.
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♪ >> that passion makes you change. >> that's it. beautiful. >> done. >> when do you make the dwings for the ceramic that you want. >> while i'm drinking. >> while your drinking. >> drinking and drawing. >> yeah, always. >> so when you're in new york do you ever go what the -- >> i don't remember. >> your design man. >> exactly. >> 90 minutes southeast is a mountainous region and it looks unlike any place i've ever been in japan. masa's good friend and art
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advisor has a family hide away here. a beautiful 120-year-old home built around and sunken harang getsth in the middle of the living room. >> it's wild getting up here. >> yeah. >> not only does it heat the entire house it becomes the gathering place on nights like these. >> they get together and cook, eat, drink large quantities of unfiltered saki and enjoy the country life. the boys layed out the makings of an amazing feast they were caught today in a nearby mountain stream. scallops pulled this moment from the sea of japan and sizzle and pucker in their shelves over the fire and butter and lime juice in a touch of home brewed soy sauce. wild japanese bore hangs above
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radiating it's sweet aroma as it cooks. >> how long have you known each other. >>? 30 years. >> i love this. >> freshly caught local quail is sprinkled with salt and glazed with that homemade soil. >> oh, ou. >> is it good. >> that is good. >> use this in a flavor soft, juicy. >> how is the fish? >> i go to burn out.
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>> good food takes a long time. >> so this big argument, is it a flavor. >> essence. >> so it's a mysterious force. >> much bigger. >> bigger than in a volunteer. >> well of course. and then it opens up like that. this is first sign of strength. >> how do you cook it? >> grilled, fried, braise it. >> grill it. oil. >> salt. >> it's so happy be cooked this way. very bitter. >> at the end of an italian
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male. >> sweet, fat, sweet, fat. at the end of the meal something bitter to remind you of the sadne sadness. >> it's this. >> you're right. it's deep. >> it's a shocking proficiency at making noodles. >> tonight it's paired up with green onion grilled. >> and then topped by a warm
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sauce. >> we appreciate enjoying this moment. never again. >> never again. >> yeah, exactly. [burke] at farmers, we've seen almost everything,
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>> one of the oldest most iconic best respected best establishments in the world. the place where it all began. for generations of young predominantly male apprentices that went to open their own places all over the world. this is in tokyo. the original. 130 years old. and for all that time this in one form or the other is how the
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day started. scaling and gutting the fish, prepping the kitchen. >> customer, dishwasher, everything. >> for how long? >> first two years. >> only in the third year the rice. and if you get that right eventually maybe just maybe they'll begin to teach you the next phase how to stay next to him slicing the fish. eventually, eventually creating pieces for guests at the bar. of the dozen young men that work here not all will make it. to achieve that status of truly becoming a master chef. >> how many years? 7 years to learn right? >> yeah. >> that's a lot of time. >> a lot of time. >> a lot of work. a lot of pain. >> exactly. >> what was it like apprenticing here? hard? >> very tough. very tough.
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his grandfather was here too. very tough. >> young masa was first hired here as an apprentice. this is his son who runs it today. the 4th generation to uphold the standards and family tradition. >> should stay the same. over a green onion and ginger drizzled with house made soy. >> i love this. very simple right? >> love it. >> marinate in soy sauce. >> very old style. >> that's good.
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blue finn tuna prepared in classic style. >> that's so beautiful. >> what would happen if you did a bad job? >> the thing is punishment. >> yelling and yelling. >> yelling? >> yelling. >> how doese h remember you? good guy? bad guy? [ speaking foreign language ] n >> wait, is he any good? >> i loved it.
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playing here in the bathroom. >> it play like that. >> oh my god. >> you are a very unusual man. ♪ >> sushi is the best meal. right there he is slicing. make it. right here. >> octopus and fluke sashimi. >> japanese cooking we care fighting spirits like this. >> brushed with soy and sake.
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>> you have to eat quickly. 30 second, one minute. >> moving, swimming very fast. amazing. had is very important. >> fresh crackling seaweed. >> wow. >> i did a great job for this. >> this is very difficult.
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>> please teach my son what he said. >> look at that. >> this has lots of eggs. >> really. >> did he ever think back then that you would be a success in america? >> ambitious. >> ambitious.
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[ speaking foreign language ] >> it's time to move forward america so here's a bipartisan solution we can all move on. ♪ ♪
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it's the kind of japanese town we don't see much of in movies or television. the once traditional farming community slow paced inward looking the opposite end of the universe culturally from new york and tokyo. >> it used to be a five hour trip from tokyo now reduced to two. why don't we have these in america by the way? ask your congressman.
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this is where masa was born and raised and could well have stayed and everything would have been different. >> masa's dad recently past and going strong the center of the family. >> california raised but a frequent visitor to the family home. she and her grandmother are preparing comfort foods to celebrate masa's homecoming. >> it's a slow simmered stew.
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>> welcome home. you don't get this in new york. >> catherine is a pastry restaurant at the french laundry. >> you grew up in the sushi bar. >> i did. sitting on a milk crate with with a cheeseburger and i'd watch my dad prepping and i'd call out dad. and he'd be like i'll not your dad here. >> sounds like fun. what did you do for fun back there? >> i was eating. >> your father was in the fish
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busine business. [ speaking foreign language ] >> masa and his brother look at the business every day after school and weekends. they call neighbors. >> you learn how to clean fish very early. >> and i grill the fish. [ speaking foreign language ] >> in her opinion were you a good student?
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>> you became a big success in america. >> you were not a lazy kids. you had dreams. >> i got to do something. >> it's nice. just great flavors. and then go with it.
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>> and masa being masa there's a mountain of sashimi brought up from tokyo this morning. >> simple and easy. that's a nice big pile of incredible, beautiful -- >> i do that all the time. >> any new york sushi enthusiast would cheerfully cut their best friend's throat for. >> typical japanese meal. champagne. >> country cooking at its best. can i give it to you straight?
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♪ >> school in japan is different. they didn't give up on physical education as we seem to have. the thousand year old martial art of kendo or the way of the sword is widely caught. boys and girls alike compete with bamboo swords. sensible stand ins for actual samurai swords but the same thing. >> kendo is scored by the throat
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each representing it would be bad news. >> the concept improved central to the study of any martial art. it can be said also applies to cooking at a high level. so it's no surprise that young masa once suited up at the same team in the same junior high school. >> i don't think it's going to work frankly.
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>> you still got it man. looking good. >> aspiration. [ speaking foreign language ]
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>> he left and his oldest brother stayed. he has been the chef proprietor of the local restaurant for the last 30 yes. eel liver dipped in sake soy and grilled low and slow over charcoal. >> back in the days of the family catering business when he looked at his younger brother did he think this guy is going
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to make something of himself. >> he was not a good student. >> it's when he went to high school and he stopped studying. >> what was he doing instead of . . . what was he doing instead of studying? >> majong. >> next, this insanely delicious eel and eggs with bean curd. >> wow, that's beautiful. >> really good. everyone in the family. >> after he graduated from high school, my dad did not have any idea what he wanted to do. my uncle was in tokyo already,
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he went to check it out and he loved it. >> that was a tremendous break for a young man. >> my father being the second son, he had the free range to do what he wanted. [ speaking foreign language ] >> so traditionally, it is the oldest son stays to take care of the parents. >> if he lives his life all over again. >> fashion designer? >> really? [ speaking foreign language ] >> oh. >> then eel steamed, dressed and
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grilled over rice. >> oh, look at this. >> wow, there are a lot of components here. >> wow, it is good. >> i never had sunagi other than my uncle's. >> good food. >> antho anthony bordaine is brought to you by expedia. travel the world better. turn the trips you have to take, into one you'll never forget.
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starts with a crust made from marie'sscratch.pot pie
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because when it's cold outside, good food and good company keep you warm inside. marie callender's ♪ the japanese often bears a heavy burden responsibilities of family obligations and traditions, work. when they relax, they really do it well. they are better at it than anybody. >> oh! whoa. >> good, man. soaked in an outdoor onset, natural sulphur bath in the
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mountains for instance. >> oh man. >> yeah. >> i feel healthy already. >> yeah. >> where is the beer? >> thank you, thank you. >> oh. cheers. time to relax. >> looking good. get together with some friends and cook off some mountain style dishes, maybe a little tempura with asparagus. >> that's the way i like it. >> when it is sukuyaki time and
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home brew saki. you just kick back to the shitakis and enjoy the day with some beef. it is going to be good. >> more, more. >> so good, it is what i like. >> how long have you known these guys? >> since high school. >> high school. >> which is what, 44 years? >> 44 years. >> how does he remember you in high school? who was the best student and who was the worst student here? >> this is the best student. the three of them are the bad
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ones. bra [ laughs ] >> so you do this when you were kids? >> we all did that. did anybody know that you dwere not going to stay like when i get old enough, we are going to go to america, we are not staying here. >> yeah, we did that. [ speaking foreign language ] >> yeah, i told them. >> you didn't dressed up like john wayne or anything? >> no. [ laughs ] no, no, no. >> they say you can take the boy out of the country but you cannot take the country out of the boy. i don't know if that's true. we all come from some place, that's for sure. but, new york city in makasaka's
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case seems far away from the little town he grew up in. oh man. please don't. >> freeze. what did you see? a few seconds of video or a cop dragging a black man down the hall, easy to jump into conclusions if this clip went viral. lets rewind the scene and play it back from beginning to end. >> he's holding a female inside. >> he's off h

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