♪ ♪

♪ ♪ i took a walk through this beautiful world ♪ ♪ felt the cool rain on my shoulder ♪ ♪ found something good in this beautiful world ♪ ♪ i felt the rain getting colder ♪ ♪ sha, la, la, la, la, sha, la, la, la, la, la, ♪

♪ sha, la, la, la, la, sha, la, la, la, la, la, la ♪ [ gunshots ] >> as so many have found throughout history, it's easy to fall in love with rome. she is seductively beautiful. she has endured and survived many things. what's left of her former

glories, her days of empire, are in ruins, but those ruins continue to enchant us. you fall into a trance here. you think no matter what, this beautiful dream will last forever, and then, suddenly, shit gets real. before world war i, benito mussolini was considered a bully and a crack pot. a short-tempered, ever-pontificating, soap-box orator from the small town of predappio. in time, though, the country was divided and in crisis. it saw itself as besieged by enemies within and without. it needed someone who said he could make italy great again. he was a man on a horse saying, "follow me." and they did.

when fascists marched on rome, the prime minister resigned and benito mussolini was appointed leader by the king. it can happen anywhere. it happened here. nearly a century later, this is what he left behind. the rome that many romans still live in today. ♪ ♪ so, this is not a show about

monuments or statues or the treasures of antiquity. this is about people, often extraordinary ones, living their lives in the rome you don't see much of in the travel guides or tv shows. ah, a nice painting of, uh, anna magnani on the wall. i was just watching her in such films as "mamma roma." >> anthony! [ speaking italian ] >> oh. all right. [ waiter speaking italian ] >> grazie. ooh. mm, yeah. i love this place.

i want to die here already, and i might yet. some people asked me in my hotel where they should eat. just wherever the concierge tells you to go, don't go there. god damn. [ waiter speaking italian ] >> perfecto. grazie. that's beautiful. oh, man. that's so completely awesome. had

pier palo pasolini was one of italy's great filmmakers, a revolutionary figure in cinema who celebrated the working-class suburbs of rome. he was a vocal opponent of fascism and of those he felt allowed it to happen. his characters were down and out, victims, predators, brutish, and wounded, often played by real people rather than actors. but they were always, even at their worst, depicted as angelic in all their flawed and damaged

glory, rome's true heroes. ♪ the hard slap of leather against wet skin. the thud of muscle and bone in collision with muscle and bone. [ bell rings ] there is blood and sweat and bitter tears as these warriors face each other in brutal combat. but, hey, there's pasta and a nice glass of wine. >> okay, this is pretty absurd. >> these people are fighting their hearts out, getting brain damaged, and we are eating spaghetti.

>> this is violent, too. it looks like somebody's been opened and i'm looking at the insides of one of these guys. >> actor/director asia argento is a member of a dynastic film family stretching back generations. her father is dario argento, credited with creating a wildly innovative and whole new style to the modern horror film as we know it. how big is your family? like, if you were to have a, like, how -- >> we don't. >> you don't. you don't do, like, a big gathering of the clans. i love the expression. you're, like -- asia has a reputation for saying what she feels. >> yeah -- him up. >> regardless of what people might think. her semi-autobiographical film "misunderstood" played at the cannes film festival.

asia is the single mother of two children and lives modestly in a middle-class neighborhood on the outskirts of rome. she was born, raised, and remains a roman, by blood and attitude. >> how is it? >> it's fantastic. >> mm, yeah. it's actually -- great. >> the gladiators. it's like ancient rome in a way. >> so, romans complain? >> the romans, they complain

about everything. >> yeah? >> oh, it's a nightmare. complaining about the gypsies -- >> right. >> about the mayor. >> so who will run rome next? who's taking over? what about fascism, like mussolini? >> yeah. my daughter, okay? >> mm-hmm. >> she goes to a private school, but not, like, you know, expensive, like, no. it's a -- it's a nun's school for christ's sake. okay? a kid will get on the teacher's desk and they will start chanting, like, "hitler, i love you" and, at the same time, as you see around, there's an obelisk with mussolini and it hasn't been torn down. in berlin you wouldn't see something like that from hitler. >> right. >> it would be absurd. here, no. ♪

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♪ >> a series of high-speed straight-aways interrupted by sharp turns with no shoulders, the via del mare was central to mussolini's dream of connecting rome to the mediterranean.

it is today italy's most dangerous road. the via del mare makes an abrupt dead end in the beachfront suburb of ostia. there's a monument here to pasolini, on the spot he was brutally beaten to death by a band of young male hustlers, though many attribute the murder to neo-fascists enraged by his politics. >> hi. >> hey, how are you doing? hi, guys. >> i meet my good friend sara among ostia's post-war housing blocks just off the beach at a place that's new to us both.

>> the people here are originally from sardinia. many people in ostia are originally from sardinia. >> l'angolo amici, or "the friend's corner," is a bar where everyone knows everybody's name, if they're sober enough to remember. >> he's a professional boxer. >> he's a professional boxer? >> he was. >> his ears look good. >> he calls himself the little tyson. >> awesome. >> here, everybody has a nickname. >> ostia might be described, unflatteringly, as rome's equivalent to the jersey shore. ♪ a suburban seaside near the airport that grew up as decidedly working-class, despite mussolini's intent that it would

one day be rome's front door. >> tell us about ostia. where are we? ♪ >> people live in these. these are not vacation homes. >> no, no, no, no. forget about tourists. there are not many. >> this is, like, the closest beach to rome, right? everybody likes the beach. why is it not all expensive hotels and money, money, money and casinos and -- >> here is for the workers and it is, has always been

considered not very interesting. >> cheers. >> i'm curious, because we're always interested in food. typical day. what's for breakfast? what's for lunch? what's for dinner? for breakfast, like, coffee and a pastry? what? >> salami, ham -- >> he said, he -- he says that that's in sardinia, but here we have a cappuccino and croissant.

>> i've been introduced to these traditional roman songs with titles like, "i never want to stop stabbing you," "your dead relatives," these wonderful songs, like, filled with very regional -- >> where did you get that? >> and apparently they were originally invented by people in bars and prisons. do you know anything about these songs? >> oh, a stornello is, like, making fun of somebody or a situation. >> right. >> and uses swear words. this is very romantic. this is like a serenade for a girl.

>> there are these wonderful expressions, like, if i hear that, if you tell me, "i'm having a baby," i can say, "-- your dead relatives." this is an acceptable expression. but you're not even angry when you say this. this is a, sort of, a casual expression. >> it depends why you're saying this. >> if you go like this -- "to your bloody, dead relatives," it's a nice thing. it's a nice thing. but if you change the hand and the hand becomes like an axe, you're really angry. >> so, this is okay. >> this is okay. >> but like this is not good. now i'm mad. >> this is the worst. this is the worst. ♪

♪ ♪

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♪ >> roma nord. the 'burbs. asia lives here with her two kids. today her sister fiore is visiting and making lunch. >> cheese? >> cheese. >> a quick stop at a typical neighborhood artisanal italian grocery. fava beans? >> fava beans. yeah. >> for some last-minute purchases. ♪

>> made in italia. >> so we'll get this. >> yeah. >> miele. >> miele? >> ah. all the way from -- >> think about it. this is one of the things that fascinates me about italy, the italian baby food. i don't -- i don't see it here. like, rabbit flavor and horse flavor and stuff. >> yeah.

♪ >> looks good. >> anthony. you're gonna be here. asia's son nicola and daughter ana. >> when i was little, one time they were putting my underpants and i was, um -- >> ah, you peed on your face. >> i peed on my face. i was crying. >> nicola, you're not supposed to say these things again. >> today's menu -- some roman classics. tripe, some nice ragu, rigatoni with guanciale and fava beans. >> mm. wow. bravo.

>> anthony, how is it? >> oh, i'm very happy. are you liking rome? do you like it here? >> yeah. yeah, like, of course. >> what do you like? >> i like this, uh, villa. >> this neighborhood. right? we like this neighborhood. why do you live here? >> i don't know. i've lived, um, away for many years and then i always come back. >> she lived in, uh, southeast asia. no? >> yeah. >> really? where? >> singapore and bali. >> those are not bad places to live. >> yeah. not bad places to live. >> bali's nice. >> bali's nice, but, then, every time i'm -- when i'm away, i miss rome. when i'm in rome, i want to go away. >> so, do you take it for granted when you drive by this magnificent, like, the coliseum? >> yeah, i don't even look at it. >> what about you? do you think, "wow, it's kind of awesome here?" >> mm, yeah. i do, actually. i appreciate it a lot, but it's not like every time i drive by i'm like, "wow!" >> like, this year it's a bit better than the other years. >> what? the coliseum? >> yeah, like -- >> why is it better? it's been there for 2,000 plus

years. >> yeah, but -- well, other year it was, um -- >> dirty. >> dirty. and, and it was, uh, like, plastic somewhere. >> oh, they were -- when they were renovating it they covered it. >> and this year it's all perfect. >> this is oxtail. >> this is really good. >> mm, bravisima fiore. >> it's fantastic. >> mama mia. >> brava. >> what is this, then? >> that is tripa. do you know what that is, tripa? >> don't tell him. meat. >> uh, meat. >> it's just meat, bro. you love meat. >> i love it. it's one of my favorite things. >> and, uh, in rome it's with the sauce, right? in rome, with the sauce, absolutely. >> i ate one in florence without the sauce. it tasted like human fingers, like, skin, like -- it was -- >> yeah, it's one of my favorite things on earth, but if you don't do it right it smells like wet dog. it's got that, kind of, funky -- >> i used to like it as a kid,

even though i was very particular about food, kind of like nicola. i didn't -- i was not adventurous. i hated food because my mother would impose us to eat all this crazy stuff like brains, like, like it was horrible. boiled brains when you're 5. then you see the veins and such. >> yeah, because they were sure that the brain make you -- >> make you smart. >> make you smarter. >> and, uh, somebody's hitting the tripe hard. >> nick. you don't have to eat, like, um, if you don't like. i mean -- >> yeah. >> i know you. i saw your face. like, eat some bread. yeah, it's, like, look. look, love. i understand. we understand. give him some bread. it's all good, my friend. you tried and -- >> you did good. hang in there, dude. ♪

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♪ >> the eur. built by mussolini as a symbol of the triumph of fascism.

these buildings were not designed to thrill or elevate or warm with their beauty. they are designed to dwarf the individual, to intimidate, to remind constantly that the state is all-powerful and supreme. that the individual is meaningless in the grand scheme of things. one person, just like the other. fungible, replaceable, ultimately worthless. ♪ ♪

>> hey! >> how are you? >> hey, tony, how are you? this is christina. >> hi, how are you? good to meet you. hi. >> lucia. >> that's my sister. will you say hi to tony? >> hello. hi. there's a big difference right away between living in italy and living in new york. they're happy to see kids in restaurants here. it's a whole different thing. >> if you bring a kid into a restaurant in new york, these guys shoot you with a look like -- >> right. >> "you got to be kidding." you know? "we're trying to do coke in the bathroom. you think we wanna look and --" >> right. the notorious, once demonic, abel ferrara is a married man now, and a daddy. things are different.

>> i was able to really get sober for the first time -- i remember, it was my 61st birthday, and i'm looking at this cake with a 16 backwards and it was the first time since i was 16 years old and i had my birthday, i was sober. >> the director of "pasolini," "bad lieutenant," and "king of new york," among others. how long have you been here now? >> living steady here, um, two years. i came to shoot the film "pasolini," then i met christina, it was the craziest thing we shot. right? i mean, totally -- >> it was the most crazy scene. >> it was an orgy. we got 30 people naked, it's 40 degrees out, and it was love at first sight. >> and then she was born. very soon. >> wow. this is good. >> the most beautiful thing in italy is every city you go to it's totally different cuisine. i mean, this is roman. all roman. >> oh, there you are. hey. ciao, ciao. come say hello.

this is tony. >> hi, ciao. >> i grew up in a southern italian family. >> catholic. >> yeah. yeah. >> i mean, how catholic were you? >> you'd have to get on your knees and say the rosary. like when you're 6 years old, 7 years old. right? >> right. >> and with the nuns walking back and forth beating the shit out of you for any reason, and even though some of them looked like angelina jolie, some of the nuns i had, actually. >> okay, look, really? >> there were some beauties -- >> this was an issue i had with "bad lieutenant." the nuns were hot. i never saw any nuns that looked like that, okay? >> no, no, no, no. >> those boys, those sad, raging boys. >> it's okay, it's okay, it's okay. it's okay. >> typical roman dish. >> typical roman dish, please. >> roman snails. >> snails? like, uh, the, from the sea? the whelk? >> no. >> no. or, no, the -- >> terra. >> oh, really? oh, man.

this is serious. what's the best thing about this city? >> everything you talked about. that when you bring a baby in here, there's a love for life. the work, the art, the attitude, how to live. if i'm in a bad mood, i'm negative, i'm down. okay? >> right. >> then i walk out, i see this chick. see this chick here, lucia? okay? okay, i might be personally like, "i don't feel like going to the market." bah bah. this chick is running the market. she's, like, you know what i mean? i don't know how old she is, but you dig? and never, like, seeing you it's like, "wow. we're alive. we have this moment on earth." and that's part of the food. >> artichoke. >> artichoke. mm. oh man, that's amazing. >> okay, when you care about the people you're feeding, you're gonna do it. people come in, you don't care, you don't know, it's just, "i'm just trying to make money." they're like, "i'll cook anything." these guys can't make bad food. >> right. >> because they're caring about you eating.

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my fellow citizens, who i work to make america great. ♪ >> traditional roman breakfast. cappuccino before 12:00, some say 11:00. definitely loving this. oh, man. there's no dignified way to eat this. oh, that's good. i was unaware of this phenomenon previously. this "bomba" thing. i believe we call it a doughnut. to pasolini, it was the

outskirts, the margins of rome that were interesting and beautiful. the real rome. not the temples and monuments of a long-dead empire, a place where people struggled every day to live and to love. >> grazie. >> i mean, you've been eating here for how long? >> since i was a kid. i used to love it as a child, it's comforting. >> food the same, more or less? nothing changes? >> always the same. yes, that's the thing. that's why i keep coming back. the grandma makes it. it's always her cooking. she cooks every time and she makes fettuccine fresh. >> rome is a city where you find the most extraordinary of pleasures in the most ordinary things. like this place, which i am not ever going to tell you the name of. asia's been coming here regularly forever. she brings her kids still, so i'm not gonna screw it up for her.

oh, that's good. >> that's good. children's food. isn't it comforting? >> is it possible to look at rome in a non-cinematic way? mine, it's a city that kind of demands it. >> to me it's how to shoot it the way that it has never been shot. there's sides of rome that, pasolini, for instance, who wasn't from rome but would shoot here and he would do the suburbs and he had this real sense of the real rome. i went to the coliseum the first time whewas . >> oh, well, how often do new yorkers go to the empire state building? i mean -- >> why would you go inside? >> yeah, i know. >> because it's tall? >> i guess. so the we were talking before about that church with the paintings of martyrs. it's super violent.

and you said something interesting. you said, you know, in times of trouble and stress, when people are afraid or angry, that people are in a buying mood. >> yeah. you want people scared at home taping their windows so they become buyers. the church did something similar in the sense that if you have sinned, you have greatly sinned, only if you repent and you go there you will be forgiven. >> right. >> you're scared. it's like kind of the first horror movies of all time, the christian art. >> when people are scared -- >> mm-hmm. >> -- they go running to the church. what about fascism. like, mussolini? very popular man. >> um, yeah. and people say, the romans, mussolini was a good man, hitler came and -- him up, but he did good -- architecture, built things, and my grandma would say, "mussolini, a good-looking

man." she would say, like, and she would, like, you know, a real man. like, with a -- you know? like, something, a man, a manly man. >> right. right. >> a manly man. mussolini was a manly man. >> so you're not optimistic about the -- >> optimistic? >> the political health of the >> anthony: the political health of the world. >> asia: i don't even care. i don't vote. i never voted. >> anthony: really? >> asia: never once. i don't go in the news. i don't want to bring that stuff with me. that shit is poison. it's just, like, this italian way of, like, "let it go." you know? "as long as it doesn't bother me." and i am completely like that. like, i care about my neighborhood, my children, my building, you know? i care about that. that's a lot to care about already.

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a is for alll the way back. r is for read my mind. and i... can't see a thing. s... see you in the morning. polaris, from united. ♪

♪ >> anthony: pick an autocratic ideology, german, italian or soviet, and you end up with structures like this. so, this was, i forget what it was in "the tenth victim." i think it's a, it's a chase scene. >> asia: the runaway, yeah. he's running. yep. >> anthony: but in "the conformist," uh, it was an -- this was a mental institution. >> asia: yeah. [ man in film speaking italian ] >> anthony: i mean, the idea, as i understand it, was this was gonna be a shining example of,

you know, the new superman or the new fascist, uh -- >> asia: yeah. >> anthony: this is what fascism can do for the world's fair. i think that was the plan, and it, 20 years, celebrating 20 years of fascism, but it never happened. the war -- >> asia: the war broke before, and then after the war this neighborhood was overgrown by weeds and trees. it was forgotten. people wouldn't come here. it was shameful. they haven't bombed it as much as in berlin. they bombed everything else, but they, you know, this is still standing even though they, to this day they don't use it very much. >> anthony: do you have any family history here? what was, uh -- i always ask anytime i meet a german i always ask, i always think of what did they do, you know, during the war and i'm, you know, i always assume the worst. >> asia: my grandmother and her brother were the photographers of fascism. she made beautiful pictures, very much grandiose like this architecture. of muscular men, women, and, uh -- >> anthony: what do you think of this style of architecture?

>> asia: i think it's beautiful. i like the fact that it's called rationalist. but, grandiose, huge. >> anthony: i mean, this is, like, it looks just like lincoln center to me, i mean, in new york. it's the same, exactly the same style of architecture. it's indistinguishable. >> asia: so what are you trying to say? >> anthony: i'm saying what's the problem? >> asia: they're fascists? [ anthony laughs ] >> asia: if, uh, there's a little fascist inside in each one of you too. >> anthony: um, look, visit the states these days. it's, uh, it's coming back. it's big. >> asia: it's coming back in what sense? what is, uh -- >> anthony: i think we're looking, we're looking for a man on a horse to make everything better. >> asia: yes. but we always have. humans always have god figure, father figure that is going to tell you what to do. people, um, in italy, yeah, in rome, still love mussolini. >> anthony: what happened to mussolini again? as i recall, uh -- >> asia: oh, he got hanged

upside down in milan, piazzale loreto, and everybody would go there and throw stones. >> anthony: what a turnaround. i mean, at one time is just so popular and en -- >> asia: that's what happens with all the idols. you know? you create them so you can destroy them. >> anthony: wow. ♪ >> asia: thank you for bringing me here. i don't think i've ever been or ever will come back. ♪ maybe for movies. ♪

♪ ♪ -- captions by vitac -- www.vitac.com ♪

so this week on the show i went to florida. yeah. no black guy's first choice. [ laughter ] i mean, you put a list of 50 states for me to go to, florida would be 52. [ laughter ] right after puerto rico and guam. do you understand what i'm saying? [ laughter ] because when you think about florida when you think about it it's all bad stuff. stealing elections, george zimmerman. they're the only state that's ever had an actual zombie attack. [ laughter ] remember the bath salts thing? that was florida. of course it was florida. as soon as they said zombie attack you were like, florida. you all knew that. [ laughter ] and yet there are people who voluntarily go to the state of florida.