♪ of his love [ applause ] >> anthony: it's easily the most contentious piece of real estate in the world. and there's no hope -- none -- of ever talking about it without pissing somebody, if not everybody, off. maybe that's why it's taken me so long to come here. a place where even the names of ordinary things are ferociously disputed. where does falafel come from?

who makes the best hummus? is it a fence or a wall? by the end of this hour, i'll be seen by many as a terrorist sympathizer, a zionist tool, a self-hating jew, an apologist for american imperialism, an orientalist, socialist, fascist, cia agent and worse. so here goes nothing. i was raised without religion.

i was raised without religion. one side of the family long ago, catholic -- i think. the other side, jewish. i've never been in a synagogue. i don't believe in a higher power. but that doesn't make me any less jewish i don't think. these guys sandbagging me at the wailing wall, they don't seem to think so either. >> man: jewish, my friend. >> anthony: only half. >> man: jewish?

>> anthony: yes, so that makes me jewish. >> man: so now for first time, we need you to go for bar mitzvah. two minutes. baruch atah -- you righty? >> anthony: i'm a righty, yes. >> man: say baruch atah -- >> anthony: baruah atah adonai elohaynu melech ha'olam asher kidshanu bemitzvotav vetzivanu. >> man: vetzivanu. >> anthony: vetzivanu l'hadlik ner -- >> man: so now, you're bar mitzvahed. mazel tov. >> anthony: mazel tov. thank you gentlemen. i've never felt so much like i'm masquerading as something i'm not. i am instinctively -- hostile to any kind of devotion. uh, certainty is my enemy. you know, i'm all about doubt, questioning oneself and the nature of reality constantly. when they grabbed hold of me in -- in a totally non --judgmental way -- essentially, you know, god's happy to have you, you know here you go, oh man you know, my, my treachery is complete.

just cause i was raised outside the faith with no particular attachment or loyalty to israel doesn't mean that plenty of people on this earth don't hate me in principle. i know that. but the state of israel, i never really knew what to think. first, look around, it's like everybody says. it's pretty. it's awesome. it's urban, sophisticated, hip, like southern california, only nicer. then you see the young draftees on the streets and you start to get the idea. this is jerusalem.

>> yotam: i'm taking you through damascus gate, which is one of the gates to the old city and these walls are- pretty ancient. people say that the deepest go back to king david and then as history progressed, they built up the walls so that the top bit is the -- is the newest bit. >> anthony: and by newest you mean -- >> yotam: i mean up to the ottoman time which the turks left here about- you know about 150 years ago and the brits came and they conquered us. i wasn't here. >> anthony: born here, now cooking in london, yotam ottolenghi is the widely known, respected chef and

coauthor of the book, "jerusalem." >> yotam: basically this city was divided into two until 1967 when there was the famous six day war and the whole of the bit that we're traveling in now, walking in, is east jerusalem, it's the palestinian part, that was up until '67 was, belonged to jordan. so now, it's under israeli control. very controversial because for the jews, for the israelis, their city's been unified but obviously for the palestinian, they're under occupation as far as they're concerned. >> yotam: we have to go through a typical falafel place because it's so much part of the culture here and again contentious because you know jews or israelis made falafel their own and everybody in the world thinks falafel is -- you know israeli food, but in actual fact it's as much a palestinian food. even more so because you know they've -- it's been done for generations here. and here you get falafel that's just been fried. you don't get it any other way. and when i go to a place like that and i see he's got a few bowls left in the bowl from the previous customer, i don't take that. i want him to fry them especially for me and that makes all the difference in the world. >> anthony: it's a whole different animal, isn't it? so is there a historically

provable answer to who invented it. >> yotam: who made it first? the one thing that is very clear is that is in this part of the world -- palestine, lebanon, syria -- it's been cooked for many, many, many generations. on the other hand, you get like jews from yemen coming here in the '50s. >> anthony: right so they can say, hey, my great uncle was in syria at the time and it was him, i remember distinctly. >> yotam: so there's actually no answer to it but the question of food appropriation or who owns the food is massive here. they can go on arguing about it forever. the old city's divided into four quarters. there is a- muslim quarter. there's a jewish quarter. there's a christian quarter and there's an armenian quarter. each one functions independently, but people that live in the certain area are all from that religion. so here you see these israeli flags over this house, so basically jews have bought this house although it's in the muslim quarter. that's very controversial because it breaks the separation that people would normally expect in the city. now we're walking in the steps of jesus christ right? >> anthony: as i so often do. >> yotam: so this is via dolorosa which is the last trip jesus did before he was crucified. so, people feel very emotional.

they come here and they feel like oh my god, i am walking in the steps of muhammad, david, or --or jesus. >> anthony: it's like jesus was here. i -- i feel like i should be more, something. >> yotam: a little bit more pious. >> anthony: a little bit? well, it's too late for me. oh great, you can get your own crown of thorns. >> yotam:yeah. >> anthony: in answer to the question, what would jesus wear? oh no, no, no, no. that's just wrong. ...with three types of good bacteria. 400 likes? wow! phillips. be good to your gut.

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>> anthony: israel is bordered by egypt, jordan, syria, and lebanon. in 1967, after the six day war, israel took control of the gaza strip, the sinai peninsula, the west bank, the golan heights and annexed east jerusalem. in 2003, israel began construction on a wall along the green line representing the israeli, palestinian border. the wall now stretches 450 miles. when completed, it will span 700 miles, 85 percent of it, in palestinian territory. on one hand, there's no doubt that the number of suicide bombings fell, drastically. on the other, there's this. we cross from jerusalem, into the west bank.

also called judea and samaria, also called palestine. since 1967, half a million settlers have moved here. all in contravention of international law. many in contravention of israeli law, though in effect, it seems to make little difference. they're here, and in ever larger numbers. this is noam, one of our drivers from tel aviv, who i asked about the graffiti on this house near the settlements. >> anthony: so, what is price tagging? >> noam: if something happens in the settlement or some attack towards jews, kids from the settlements would come and have

a price tag for every activity. so they'll come to a palestinian village like this and they will destroy cars. they will write on walls like this. it says, "against arabs, the state of israel is alive and death to the arabs." >> anthony: intimidating. i mean you put what, two targets on my house, i'm moving. >> anthony: this is eli, a settlement with a population of over 3,000. relatively isolated from the rest of israel. amind cohen is the chief executive of the eli settlement and its former head of security. >> amind: here you see from up above, most of our town. you see the palestinian villages all around. >> anthony: i mean it's an unusual situation. i mean a lot of your neighbors would very much like you not to be here. >> amind: i know most of them and most of them they're happy that we're here. because actually we gave them prosperity for the last 45 years and then when the plo came they lost it. >> anthony: i'm guessing a lot of people would disagree with that statement. >> amind: we work with high tech security, radars and cameras.

>> anthony: so, from the high ground you can see anybody walking at night. you could see from pretty far out? >> amind: definitely. >> anthony: and could you identify them after the fact? >> amind: depends. but we have our protocols that we work with. and we had our successes. >> anthony: we drive to (city- inaudible). another settlement a few miles away. hot, sun bleached, suburban feeling. behind it's ring of electronic surveillance sensors and security -everything they feel they need. school, public transportation and a petting zoo. >> anthony: amichai louria has

lived here for 23 years. he's a winemaker, an amateur cook. oh, pretty. wow. you're not kidding around. [ speaks hebrew ] [ speaks hebrew ] >> amichai: this salmon is marinated with pomegranate juice that i, on the season i squeeze pomegranates and i freeze the juice so i'll have it all year round. >> anthony: so where were you before here? >> amichai: i was born in pennsylvania. >> anthony: so your parents brought you over at age 4? >> amichai: yeah. >> anthony: parents in their 20s with kids living in the relative comfort familiarity of pennsylvania, heading off to, what must have at least in part of their minds been seen as uncertain.

>> amichai: yes. it was very difficult for them. almost all jews say next year -- [ speaks hebrew] it's part of prayers that we say all the time. >> anthony: so if i'm understanding correctly, the bibles, it's all right there. it all happened here, it's sort of a non-negotiable position. >> amichai: you see prophecies coming true. i mean things coming to life again, you know. mountains that nobody wanted to live on, nobody dared to -- for thousands of years nobody wanted this place you know, and then finally we come here and everything is flourishing again, and it's -- it makes you feel good you know? it's -- >> anthony: you've been here since '90. you look, you look over the edge there, there's a arab village right -- how far away? >> amichai: yeah there is one that you can see from here.

>> anthony: at any point during that time, you ever go to anybody's house, sit down and eat? >> amichai: not there, but in other villages. >> anthony: ever sat down at a muslim table? >> amichai: muslim table. >> anthony: your host and everybody else. >> amichai: coffee. >> anthony: but not here? >> amichai: no because i don't as a religious jew, i eat only kosher. so they respect that so they don't offer me. >> anthony: so i gotta ask you about something that troubled me coming up. the first house before you come up the drive to this village. the graffiti on the front. >> amind: yes. >> anthony:the targets spray-painted on it. who done it? >> amind: villains. bad people. >> anthony: kids? >> amind: i don't know. maybe -- apparently kids. when we educate kids, kids are not able to understand complicated things. they see the world in black and white. when you get older, you're able to see the grey. and when someone hits you -- >> anthony: look i understand why kids would do it. given what you told me earlier, identifying the perpetrators within --within the realm of possibility. >> amind: young people. >> anthony: why not paint it

over? >> amind: good question. i don't know. maybe we should. you're right. >> anthony: elsewhere in the west bank, just outside of ramalah. >> anthony: meet betty sadeh and mona inale. two members of the group of women who call themselves the speed sisters. the first all female palestinian racing team. >> betty: hi. >> anthony: hi, i'm anthony:. >> betty: hi, betty. >> anthony: good to meet you. >> betty: when i'm riding a car,

i'm the happiest girl ever. racing. it's in my blood, racing. here in palestine. it's very small. there's no roads, so when i drive i speed. i feel free. >> anthony: did you find that people underestimated you at first? >> betty: at the beginning, they could maybe make fun of us, but when we got good scores, we win our respect. >> anthony: now they know. >> betty: yeah, well a car doesn't know if you're a woman or a man. >> anthony: yeah. >> betty: a lot of girls want to join us, the speed sisters. but some of the families are very reserved, they don't like their daughters to be between men racing you know?

palestine is a very reserved society. >> anthony: so are things getting better, staying the same, or worse? >> betty: you never know what's going to happen in palestine. one day it's good and the other day it's just, you never know, it's a crazy country. >> anthony: the local police would prefer them off the streets for obvious reasons. but the track here, such as it is, has its drawbacks. it's basically a parking lot across from the detention center. >> anthony: what do they think about this next door, do they ever give you problems? >> betty: this is an israeli jail. it's called --. one time we were here with speed sisters and there was problems because of the prisoners. so i just stopped my car over there, and i was walking, i wanted to see what's going on. and the israeli soldiers, they came running at me, and they started shooting at me, and i got -- i got shot in the back. it was uh tear gas. >> anthony: the canister hit you. >> betty: yeah, so my speed sisters they took me to the hospital. i fainted. >> anthony: have you thought of challenging the israelis to put up a team? betty: i can't race because my car is palestinian. >> anthony: what if they come over here? >> betty: they're not allowed to enter the west bank and we're not allowed to go to jerusalem so how can we race together? >> anthony: okay. silly question.

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>> anthony: it's right there for all to see, and it feels like something out of a science fiction film.

this is the wall. from the other side, or inside this place for instance, the aida refugee camp in the district of bethlehem, it doesn't feel like anything other than what it is. a prison. abbed: abbasur is the founder of the al rawad children's theater center. so we are at the north entrance of bethlehem and heading to ida refugee camp. >> anthony: so this has been here since 1950? abbed: yes. it started with tents, people were under the tents for about 7 years, and later on the un saw that it was not temporary as it was supposed to be so they started building what they call shelters. >> kid on street: hello, hello,

hello. >> anthony: first impressions of the camp, there's a remarkable number of kids. [ speaks arabic ] >> abbed: now it's about 6,000 people and 2/3rds are under 18 years old so it's a very young population. unfortunately with the continuous degradation of political and economic situation, we are in a situation where we have no playgrounds or green spaces anymore. >> anthony: children play in the streets beneath wall covered in images of martyrs, plane hijackers, political prisoners. >> anthony: 6,000 people of that number, 66 percent are under the age of 18 and i don't care where that is in the world, that's pretty much a recipe for unruly behavior i think would be the best. >> abbed: well, especially yes. especially when you don't have any possibilities to evacuate the anger and the stress in a creative way.

so after i finish my studies, i came back here and i started using theater as one of the most amazing, powerful, civilized and non-violent means to express yourself. tell your story. to be truthful. and this is for me, the ability to build the peace within and to hopefully help them to think that they can grow up and change the world and create miracles without need to carry a gun and shoot everybody else or explode themselves or burn themselves but to stay alive. >> anthony: abbed takes me to the camp's martyr's quarter. to be fed by islam. she runs a women's collective for palestinian cooking classes. helping her provide for 6 children, one of whom is disabled. >> anthony: in america, kids grow up with pop stars, sports players. never a politician. i mean, it's unthinkable for a child to look up to a politician. or to look up to a military figure. sports or entertainment. here, kids four, five years old, every day, they're looking to somebody who, you know brought down a plague. >> abbed: yeah. >> anthony: um, i'm not

questioning why that is. >> abbed: i know. yeah. >> anthony: do you think it's helpful? >> abbed: well, i guess we have a history. we are people who are under occupation. people honor their heroes. and their heroes are those who resist the occupation, whether they resisted through an armed struggle or an unarmed struggle. and, to tell you the truth, sometimes i have been in fight with some political parties when they put images of people who were killed in their own houses. on the 29th of october 200, she was killed in her kitchen by a sniper from the intercontinental cartel. but when these political parties take this woman and want to make a montage of photos with her carrying a gun to say this is the hero who liberated the palestine?

sorry, this is not true! this woman was killed in her house. you go today and ask the palestinians, who is the great hero? you ask these kids, who will they recognize? they will recognize a young man from gaza who is an arab idol named muhammad asef. a singer who sings. he became more famous than abu mazin and arafat and everybody else. this is another image of palestine. >> anthony: you could almost believe, for a minute or two, that some kind of peace, some kind of reconciliation, meeting of the minds, sanity, is possible, after you visit mashda. it's a restaurant in what looks like an idyllic village in the judean hills about twenty minutes from jerusalem.

it feels like an alternate universe for a number of reasons. >> anthony: michal balanes is of jewish. jakob bahrun is muslim from a nearby village. they're partners, co-owners of mashda and also married. they're unsurprisingly friend's of yotam. together, they grow and raise much of what's used in their kitchen. their food reflects both their different backgrounds and their commonalities. >> yotam: we're going to spoil you now. >> anthony: yeah, here we go. >> anthony: so you grew up in this town? >> jakob: yes, in this village. >> anthony: where did you grow

up? >> jakob: michal atanya, near the beach. >> anthony: near the beach. not, not the neighborhood. >> jakob: but we met in the neighborhood. in . and we were together in hotel. >> anthony: how did that go down with the families? >> jakob: wonderful now. now, wonderful. >> anthony: now good. >> jakob: yes. very good. >> anthony: at the beginning not so much. >> jakob: started it yes, with the questions versus the answers, and start to understand that we love each other, and they can do nothing. so we continue. and they support us. >> yotam: this is your special fried eggs, sunny side up. >> anthony: farm eggs with peppers from your garden, tomato. that looks awesome, beyond words. it is incredibly beautiful here. i don't know why i didn't expect that. >> jakob: michal, you know, a lot of people come and say, it's

like provence, it's like italy, and we say, no, it's in jaffa. >> yotam: you like cochrin? >> anthony: i do. roasted tomatoes, okra? >> yotam: onion and mint. and that's all it is. and what they do a lot here is just char the hell out of it. so it's like, it really is, it's really smoky just from being in the pan over very high heat. >> yotam: it's so good together. >> anthony: so generally speaking, who lives in this area? mostly arab, ethnically arab in this particular town? >> jakob: muslims, yes. dyotam: only muslim. >> jakob: just michal, jewish. only jewish here.

>> yotam: michal is the only jewish in the village. >> anthony: and this? >> yotam: that's another zucchini that's been grilled, and then we use the dried yogurt so that's the sauce. so it's that intense goaty flavor. very typical for palestinian cooking, right? >> michal: yes. anthony: oh man, that's good. i just had this incredibly delicious meal, completely oblivious to the fact that it's entirely vegetarian. if any of the vegetarian restaurants in new york served food that tasted anywhere near this i would be, i would actually >> yotam: go there. >> anthony: well, i mean i'm -- i'd consider it. and this? michal: fresh zucchini with mint. >> yotam: and apricots. the little sweet apricots we have. >> anthony: now, all of this food is really intensely delicious. are you hopeful? >> michal: of course, i have my children. you need to see them.

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>> anthony: vo getting in and out of gaza from israel is truly one of the most surreal travel experiences you could have on earth. over 1.5 million people live in gaza, most of them considered refugees. meaning, they're not from the place they're compelled to live now.

in most cases they're either prohibited from or unable to leave. israel decides who comes and goes. what gets in and what stays out. apart from journalists, aid workers, emergency responders, very few people are allowed to cross into gaza. in 2005, the israeli defense forces left the gaza strip and all israeli settlers were removed. now inside gaza, hamas is in charge. considered a terrorist organization by both the united states and israel, they got elected in 2006. this is laila el-haddad, a

native gazan, journalist, and author of the gaza kitchen. laila the catches are not as big as they used to be and that's primarily because the fishermen can't go beyond 3-6 nautical miles. >> anthony: you can continue fishing but what happens? >> laila: they'll shoot at the fishermen, they'll spray cold water at them, they'll destroy their boats, they'll cut their fishing nets. they'll detain them. so it's obviously really risky business. 9 nautical miles, that's where that deep sea channel is, where you're going to get the really good catches. >> laila: so gaza's the last palestinian area that has access to the coast and that's really important to remember. you know you have the west bank, just an hour away, but many of the palestinians there have never seen the sea, have never

been to the sea. >> anthony: the sultan family own a small farm in the bonne saila area of the eastern gaza strip. sultan and her husband are unusual in that they cook together. this is not typical in this part of the world or in this culture. they use their own fresh-killed chickens to make the gazan classic maqluba. a traditional palestinian dish comprised of layers of fried eggplant, tomato, potatoes, carmelized onions, and chicken sautéed and simmered in a broth with nutmeg, cinnamon, cardamom and rice. it's a big family, children and grandchildren all living under the same roof. and it can get chaotic. so, lets talk about food and eat food because it's just sitting here. >> laila: yeah, yeah, yeah. sure. sure. sure. >> anthony: what do we have here? >> laila: okay, so this is called maqluba or maqluba. traditionally made with lamb and

this case chicken. [ speaks arabic ] they're very concerned that we're being very rude and we're not. >> anthony: yeah eat. >> laila: we're not allowing, no the others to eat. no, he's saying how can you be eating and you're letting everyone stand. >> anthony: wow. >> laila: for me, being from gaza, being a child of diaspora, i always thought food was a really interesting way to be able to tell the palestinian story. being able to discover this lost history, this palestinian past. plus, the food is really damn good. >> anthony: right that it is. >> laila: and it was i think also important to be able to provide palestinians an image of themselves that they recognize, a very humane image. because all they're seeing in the media, whether here or there, whether i'm on arabic channels or abroad, you know, is this kind of very caricatured images of, you know, gunmen and

you know, wailing women, and this kind of grim, you know, cinderblock landscape. you're not entering into the private homes and what does a kitchen look like, and what does, you know a family you see here. >> laila: do you like it, she's asking. >> anthony: oh it's absolutely delicious. really, really good. >> laila: yeah? she wants you to open a restaurant for her. [ laughs ] >> anthony: keep cooking like this, it's really delicious. >> laila: gaza has three distinctive, culinary heritages. those who hail from villages that were either depopulated or destroyed in 1948, uh-and they constitute about 75% of the population of gaza. and they kind of bring with them their own distinct cuisine. that's very different from the cuisine of the city-gaza city, which tends to use much more heat, much more chili peppers. >> anthony: right. >> laila: from the cuisine of the coast, which is rich uh-with seafood of course, and a very sophisticated, very urbane cuisine. >> anthony: i'm curious what everyone thinks. will, in your lifetime, i guess the first question will be "in

your lifetime, will you be able to visit yafa?" [ speaks arabic ] laila: she says, you know, she hopes she can. she hopes she can go to jerusalem as well. [ speaks arabic ] laila: so she's optimistic, yeah. [ speaks arabic ] anthony: what about --? laila: he saying that, first he said you're not allowing us to and then he said -- then he self corrected and said the israeli aren't allowing us to. >> anthony: go, go! [laughs] [ speaks arabic ] [ speaks arabic ] >> laila: this is the normal tone of voice. he's not upset, by the way, this is how we talk. [laughs] >> anthony: what's he -- what's he say? >> laila: he's saying, give me a permit, if they allow me, of course i'll go.

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>> anthony: laila's got something to show me. a watermelon salad thing she discovered on a recent trip here that's really peaked her

interest. so, off we go. i figure, this'll take a minute. >> anthony: we arrive at what looks like a pretty serious gathering. this is a diwan and we're soon joined by un sultan's husband, abu. >> laila: it's an area where kind of where the elders gather to, you know, resolve community problems, to you know, kind of advise. >> anthony: all of these guys are from biral sabi, now part of israel. so they're bound together by traditions and a way of life very different from here, where they have been relocated and lived since 1948. >> anthony: does he think he'll be able to go to his ancestral homeland in his lifetime? his children's lifetime? what's his guess? >> elder man 1: we will return. our quran, our instrument, told us this.

it's told this enemy back me. please kill him. and we understand that. we hope, and if not me, my son, my daughter. >> laila: so what they're making now is called -- is basically baby watermelon, under ripe watermelon. it's kind of a specialty of southern gaza, but also sinai. [ crying ] >> laila: it's usually something that's made exclusively by men, is what i was told here. so they begin, you can see there, they're fire roasting the baby watermelons. they cover them with aluminum foil, in addition they put them through a wire kind of like a sort-of rustic skewer and yeah, they just throw them in there. >> laila: and the idea is they-they take the pulp out so that's what's going on. hey mama. come here, mama. yeah and then what they do while that is fire roasting as they kneed an unleavened dough over there with whole wheat, barley, plenty of really rich extra virgin olive oil.

>> laila: and then they throw that into the pit as well where they dig a pit in the sand over there and that's fire baked. >> anthony: right into the coals? >> laila: yep, and then they mix that all together. [ speaks arabic ] city. ask anyone in gaza city if they've heard of this dish -- >> no. >> -- and no. so even in an area as small as gaza, you see this very wide variation. they're going to clean it up. ♪ >> many, if not most of these guys, are not too sympathetic to

my country or my ethnicity, i'm guessing. but there's that hospitality thing. anywhere you go in the muslim world, it seems. no matter what, you feed your guests, you do your best to make them feel at home. >> we have to eat. [ speaking foreign language ] you're supposed to eat this with your hands. mm, very good. [ speaking foreign language ] >> he's saying if you eat this, you shouldn't have another meal for three days. >> where does this dish come from? >> this is a dish that's native to southern gaza, the sinai, sort of the desert bedouin areas. >> all the food i've had so far in gaza has been very different than in anything else i've had in the arab world. different flavor spectrum. >> yeah, totally. it's kind of it's own little

gastronomical bubble. >> why are you not using a spoon? >> i find that the food has a more flavor. i get a better sensory experience. even children, they like to eat with their hands. he's saying god gave us hands to eat with, not spoons.

their kids, love the land in which they live or the land they dream of returning to, who live so close, who are locked in such an intimate, if deadly, embrace might somehow some day figure out how to live with each other. but that would be very mushy thinking indeed. those things in the end probably

don't count for much at all. gatan galkowitz runs a restaurant just seven miles from the gaza strip. you and your family have paid the worst imaginable price. >> yes. my daughter was killed by a mortar sent by hamas. >> in some israeli towns and villages within close proximity of the gaza strip, bus stops double as bomb shelters and air raid sirens warn of incoming missiles fired from less than a mile away. rockets and mortar shells have been known to fall from the sky in these part, and no one understands the consequences more than this man. you were not a fervent ideological zionist. >> no. >> you were not an orthodox jew. >> no. >> and yet here you are, at the spear point, right at the dip. there's your restaurant. >> this is a shelter. >> here's a shelter.

here you are. >> after the death of my daughter, i just start to talk. to whom? to people who want to listen. i know that my daughter was killed for no reason, and i know that people in the other side have been killed for no reason. children, old people. i have been a soldier in gaza. i saw very poor people. i know there is interest in keeping these poor people. you can go far, far, but the bottom line is, let's stop with the suffering. >> you know, i went to this settlement community. >> nice people. >> and i said to you, you know, they were nice. and you said, you said, what did you say? they're all nice. >> they're all nice. i know, nice, very nice palestinian people. >> they're all nice, but if you

scratch, if you push, they all want -- they'll all say throw them in the sea. >> most of the people, they don't talk. they are very upset. they are fed up. and the same goes from the other side to us. you have to find the right people on both village, also on the down, also on the up, and maybe they talk. and i am sure that is possible. >> the opportunities to do that here are very, very, very limited, it seems. >> agree. >> and i mean, one doesn't even have to speak metaphorically, because there is an actual wall. >> that is a wall. >> or a fence, depending on who you're talking to. >> fence or wall.

no, it's a big wall. it's ugly. it's really ugly. you can see it. it's not far away from here. this is the story of one man, one chef, and a city. also it's about france and a lot of other chefs. and a culinary tradition that grew up to change the world of gastronomy. it's about a family tree, about the trunk from which many branches grew. it's about food, lots of food. great food. some of the greatest food on earth.