so i'm trying to understand buenos aires, and i've only got a week.

♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪

♪ kind of amazing. i live in a plane and i'm thinking, i understand scientifically how they fly but it doesn't look like it should work. that's a big hunk of metal. >> yeah. >> and who are these people? they waiting for friends to arrive? no, they're just here looking at planes. >> yeah, it's popular. you watch a couple of planes come and go. >> the whole family. >> yeah. >> buenos aires. capital of argentina, second largest country in south

america. a quirky unique character all its own. it looks like no other place and it feels unlike any other. >> you all right? it's very pretty here. it's really beautiful. i'm glad i came in the summer. really quiet. kind of a mournful sad sweet quality that i like. fits with the architecture.

where does everybody go? like now, where is everybody? >> the city's empty. month of january, everybody go for holidays. >> january and february are the hottest months here. middle of summer. most who can afford it get out of town to cooler climates. >> they go to you're guy, the beach, or to pat goena or to the north. >> i had a poem in pat goena. no internet. no electricity. no phone. >> a little anti-social. for a guy who's a communicator,

all over television. >> yeah, i'm not very social. >> chef restaurant you're chef francis is one of the biggest and most influential figures in latin american astronomy. tv star, head of a restaurant empire and now giving delightfully few [ bleep ] about anything important. >> this is restaurant i love. carlito's, serves you whatever he has. there's no menu. >> of all the places in the world that francis can eat and has eaten, it's this place he wanted to take me to. don carlito's. >> it's him and his wife in the kitchen with two daughters. nobody else. and they've been open 45 years. >> unassuming family-run joint across from the soccer stadium. >> who are customers ordinarily? >> it is fun one see very simple price answers if you look sort of wealthy and elegant you get bag check and if not you'll get

a small check. that's the way it works. >> this is carli's. >> how you, sir? >> welcome. >> thank you. beautiful. look at this guy. >> there are gods here besides tango and football or soccer as we call it. there's beef. as residents of buenos aires call light beef, and beef in general, but particularly beef. >> i love this place already. >> yes, i love meat. i eat meat everyday. >> now that's exciting. one of my favorite things. love it. >> it's a proud country. one of the stereo types is that they are too proud and full of themselves. the fame, the crowd. if this is so, why is psycho therapy so huge in this country? >> this is the kingdom of doubt. >> my kids have been

experiencing this since they were eight. for a year or two, go to the shrink and talk to someone you don't know, with whom you can say whatever you want. i did it myself a couple of years when i was 30. >> it is an extraordinary thing. because in many cultures to confess you even confide in someone, it is a sign of weakness. here everyone does it and no one thinks of it. >> mm-hm. >> that is cool. i need someone to talk to. >> have you ever done it? >> no. i was a teenager, my parents caught me with drugs and as part of the deal to stay ou of -- stay out of trouble, i saw a therapist briefly. meet miry anna, my they're therapist. argentina has has more head shrinkers per capita than

anywhere else in the world. >> so tony, what brought you here? ? >> what brought me here? things have been happening. i will find myself in an airport for instance and i'll order an airport hamburger. it's an insignificant thing. small thing. hamburger. but it's not a good one. suddenly, i look at the hamburger and i find myself in a spiral of depression. that can last for days. george orwell talked about something, human beings are tubes into which we shove food. and this is my job. i travel around the world with these people and they turn on the cameras and then for a certain period of time, my job is to shove food into my face. >> and what's wrong with that? >> you have to eat.

>> look at that. >> beautiful. >> it's perfect food. >> wow. it's really unnecessarily delicious. what kind of food is this? where is it rooted? >> between italy and spain and where the meat, the way he cooks it, it this neighborhood. it is very italian. they say that this is where the tango was born in this little street. >> and where does that come from emotionally? the tango, why here? >> the tango is extremely sad. it's about love, about despair,

and the dance i think is one of the most elegant dances in the world where they barely move and suddenly they stop. when they stop, you know, you tr tremble because you feel that the man is sort of inside of her almost. and then he goes on.

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♪ ♪ it's refreshingly lonely. i travel over 200 days a year. so i had this dream again that i've had as long as i can remember. i'm stuck in a vast old victorian hotel with endless rooms and hallways trying to check out, but i can't. i spend a lot of tim in hotels, but this one is menacing because i just can't leave it.

then there's another part where i'm trying to go home but i can't quite remember where that is. >> are you alien? >> i'm alone in this dream, yes? >> i'm alone in this dream, yes? >> i'm alone in this dream, yes? >> i'm alone in this dream, yes? >> i'm alone in this dream, yes? >> i'm alone in this dream, yes? >> i'm alone in this dream, yes. ♪ ♪ >> in my heart, what i like about buenos aires in argentina is we take time to sit down and have lunch, everyday. >> yeah, i'm always hungry. >> and there is lunch and then you stay at the table one hour more with friends. then go to work and have ciesta -- >> a nap. >> nap. >> very important. >> on the outskirts of town, in the roaring summer heat, the

fi fires still burn hot. tempting asthma of meat fills the mid afternoon air. on the pe reesha, many parts of once-living things sizzle and char those who remain in town. but mary anna, my new therapist -- >> what? >> wow. >> wow. i don't think that's enough. >> meat is king. and fire. and we shall go hard if honoring the flame. >> i don't know where to take this first. >> all of this is achurras. kidney. chorizos. >> and this is the famous intestine, right? >> yes. >> after a week or two here, even confirmed carnivores like myself will fall to their knees praying for a vegetable. so is this normal, like lunch, for people? >> yes.

>> tell me, what do you do during your time in buenos aires? >> eat a lot of meat. >> yes. >> have you any vegetables in this country at all? >> there are vegetarian people here. >> yeah, right. >> they -- >> a chicken. >> a chicken eats a vegetable. >> why is therapy so big in argentina? i mean, the country has this gaucho tradition, very macho tradition. >> yes. that is what therapy is for. >> they can, so it's okay. >> it is okay. >> as new yorkers, you tell strangers all your problems. we overshare. >> people here don't overshare. >> no. i feel like causy moto, the hunch back of notre dame. if he stayed in nice hotels with high thread-count sheet, that

would be me. i feel kind of like a freak and i feel very isolated. i communicate for lafing ba liv i'm terrible about communicating with the people i care about. i communicate with my daughter. an 8-year-old communication skills, so that works out. oh, this is the vegetable course. >> yes. >> later i'm going to have a nap. that would be a -- >> well it is more like, from the -- >> right. that's me. no, i'm not a country boy. i'm a city boy. but i do like naps. so people allummer long, stuck in buenos aire what do you do? >> go for a barbecue. go out for dinner. ♪ ♪

>> so what's the best season, best time of year for you, best money, best business? >> summer. >> in the summer? >> summer? now? >> yeah. >> tourists. >> people come from the north, states, canada. now they come in the summer. >> right. all hail the water. career server. great disappearing species of proud, well-trained specialists. members of the service industry who trace their roots back to the great hotels of europe and beyond into history. those who remain like this man, mario, we salute you. how many years in the dining room? a lot? >> 70 years in restaurant. >> 17. >> 17 years. >> people who work in the kitchen one type of personality.

people in the dining room like to be more sociable. >> i like speaking to people in the whole world. i speak germany. italian. portuguese. >> a friend of mine who works in the business a long time, he says when man comes into the restaurant with a woman, they never say oh mr. -- so good to see you again. >> oh, no, no, no. >> you don't know if the woman is his wife or someone else. and if you say oh, so good to see you again, they say, what do you mean again? i thought you said you had never been here. >> i remember when i was 18 years old, i was a restaurant worker and in canada, man and his wife, oh, how are you? rodriguez. always you go to the nightclub. >> oh. >> that man -- >> oh big problem now. >> of course. never must say. >> if you're a cheap tipper, by the way, or rude to your server,

you are dead to me. you are lower than whale feces. ♪ ♪ [ applause ] >> 20, 30 years ago, waiting was a profession. >> yeah. >> everybody learned certain skills. that you need to take a bone out of a fish. serve the fish at the table side. >> you make everything. >> right. >> steak flambé. >> yeah. no problem. >> crepe suzette. >> all of this. >> everything. fold the napkin. >> all of it. i remember when i started, there was five captains, six waiters, five -- quite different. now days more simpler. >> right. in france, no more. >> no more. >> in the restaurants, you don't see it. >> now days people are more simple.

>> because they're easy. >> yeah, yeah, easy, very easy. give me red wine. give me white wine. no problem which one. this work i do, slowly melting away. 18 years 2or 20 years more, finished. >> to the old style. cheers. ♪ ♪ i'm victoria alonso and i'm an executive producer... ...at marvel studios. we are very much hands-on producers. if my office... ...becomes a plane or an airport the surface pro's perfect. fast and portable but also light. you don't do this 14 hours a day, 7 days a week for... ...decades if you don't feel it in your heart.

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♪ ♪ >> who do they seem themselves from? do they say, well i'm from argentina? or my people came from italy? >> i'm buenos aires. i'm different from anybody else. >> i tell stories for a living. i write books. i make television.

a reasonable person does not believe that you were so interesting that people will watch you on television. i think this is evidence of narcissistic personality disorder to start with. >> do you think you add narcissistic personality before you start to be like a public person or after that? >> i think before. probably. yeah, i think always. so nothing to be done. ♪ ♪ ♪

>> you have the life of a musician, can which is very important. you have the tango. all the artists. and you have the corporate world. that is always boring. and on the edge you have in a very poor neighborhoods of these hundreds of thousands of children that run behind a ball and want to be soccer players. and they have a dream. that's all they have. and they know the faster they run, the harder they hit that ball, the better they move around, maybe they'll get it. >> is her? you do this all the time? >>ike, once a week. >> this late at night? >> yes. >> way too late for me.

>> a country, depending on where you are, can revolve around what is going on. the business hours are long. the camaraderie intense. after a long day and night of work wbt mi work, the mind turns to soccer? okay, this is feature i was, frankly, unprepared for. >> everyone here work for you? >> we have two teams. we have pe reesha, then chile and me. >> of course. >> and we have two teams. >> the chef along with her husband and business partner owned and operates chila restaurant. where she still work the line. >> sometimes we are ignorant of our production. not only meat. >> it's 1:00 a.m. and tonight

it's a blood match between the crews of chila and its sister restaurant, la grill. >> we share a lot of products with peru, brazil. we have immigrants like germ answer ans, swisans, swiss.ns, swiss.ans, swiss. >> rich traditions? >> yeah. do you want a drink? >> what do you have? >> fernand. we have been drinking a little bit. it is for digestion. good for your stomach. right? >> so it's healthy. i ain't playing no soccer. alcohol and meat are more familiar to me. >> a 40% pork, 40% cow -- and all the cuts are -- >> so it's got some funk.

>> yeah. >> i don't know whether it's the television or the 30 years in the restaurant business, i just never understood how normal people lived. when i was a chef, i worked all day, at night hung out with other cooks, other people. i loved barbecuing in the backyard. cooking for my daughter. i like doing these normal mundane things because i never got do them before. so you've been in the the restaurant business a long time. >> i started -- >> right. >> 18 years ago. >> right. but wait a minute, cooking was not your original plan. what was the original plan -- >> law. >> why would you do such a foolish thing? there's no money in cooking most of the time. back then it was a business dominated entirely by men. >> i was not feeling good in myself, you know. and i said maybe i'm going to be

a really good lawyer and i'm not going to be happy in my life. >> so right away, you said, okay, i'm going to cook. and you went to the institute -- >> yes. yes. >> tough school. >> yes. >> very traditional. >> for me, the experience of france was really hard. >> oh, i can only imagine. >> you know, latin american woman from argentina, speaking few french, i cry all night.amen from argentina, speaking few french, i cry all night.-americ woman from argentina, speaking few french, i cry all night. call my mom. she tell me, go on. keep going, keep going, keep going. and i always said, when i have the opportunity of running my own kitchen, i'm not going to do any of the things that they did to me. so to now, i did it okay.

>> these guysill be big babies anyway. back in the kitchens i was in, all men, and then the guys would go crying to the women with their problems. please be my mommy. you know. tell me what it do. you know. >> i think i'm ready for charizo. here for reasons that are round immediately obvious once you bite into one.

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>> anthony: who's here? it's summer, right? >> man: uh, well, that's a very interesting question. >> nicolas: a lot of lower-class people that cannot go out for a holiday they stay here and they make the party happen in their own neighborhood.

>> anthony: now, how long is carnival season here? >> nicolas: uh, it goes on every weekend for a month. >> anthony: a month? >> nicolas: yeah. >> anthony: carnival is different in argentina, decidedly different. in every barrio in buenos aires there are celebrations with over a hundred murgas, as they' called, taking to the streets, traveling from barrio to barrio by bus doing their thing. >> anthony: so, they're like neighborhood teams? >> man: yes. every neighborhood has one or two of these murgas and they start in one neighborhood and then go to another and then go to another. uh, and it's healthy competition between every neighborhood. >> anthony: these guys are murga los amontes. they are from la boca which, according to the guidebook, is

an old industrial neighborhood in the port district known for historic buildings and no small amount of crime. is there, like, a parade? a block party? >> nicolas: it's a little bit of each. this is not like rio carnival. you have a cute parade with lots of men in it. >> anthony: right. you know, we do a lot of different scenes, most of the meals, or, i drive sports cars, i've jumped out of planes, but there are a few things that terrify me. carnivals. i'm not, i -- i'm afraid of clowns, hor-horrified. people dancing, crowds.

you know, i've lived a long life without ever going to carnival in rio or, or mardis gras. i don't like it. and, there's something frightening about crowds, too. i mean, what if they all decide to do one thing at the same time. starts as a party, five minutes later it's like nazi germany. >> marina: yeah. >> nicolas: well, it's a pity that you, you, couldn't show you the whole carnival stuff. >> anthony: eh, i'm okay. this is perfect for me. i'm sitting down, i'm drinking beer, it's all right honestly. >> nicolas: it has the common roots with brazilian carnival and uruguay carnival but in each

place took different way. in brazil it was more for the spectacle and, uh, the lights and here it's more about the pride of, you know, of the neighborhood. >> anthony: thank you for that. ♪ ♪

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>> anthony: this romanticism, this, uh, sadness, this, uh, love of sadness. what was it about the history of argentina that allowed this to take root? >> mico: from a difficult life. from a life, you know, living in a little room but always with the glory and the dream of a night out. of the man who has his beautiful hat for saturday night.

and then, next morning, you know, em, reality's back. >> anthony: who's left in the city? who else stays? >> mico: who else stays? well -- >> anthony: construction workers? >> mico: construction workers. this building. it's a big one. it's 18 stories. >> anthony: right. >> mico: it's in the middle of capital federal, from the center of buenos aires. >> anthony: right. >> mico: so, it's going to be an expensive building. >> anthony: so who is going to live here? >> mico: i don't know. people with money. >> anthony: i mean, you know, how's the economy? >> mico: the economy? it's crazy. it's, eh -- >> anthony: some people doing good and some people not doing so good. >> mico: yeah. the middle class has been disappearing. >> anthony: they tell me that everybody in argentina sees a psychologist or a psychiatrist. is this true? >> mico: it's true. >> anthony: everybody? >> mico: yeah. well, not everybody. people that can afford it. but --

>> anthony: right. >> marina: so, let's go back to the first question i asked. what brought you here? >> anthony: i'd like to be happy. i'd like to be happier. i should be happy. i have, you know, incredible luck. >> marina: mm-hmm. >> anthony: i'd like to be able to, you know, look out the window and say, "hey, life is good." >> marina: and you don't. >> anthony: nah. [ marina laughs ] i'm not gonna get a lot of sympathy, uh, from people, frankly. i mean, i have the best job in the world. let's face it. i go anywhere i want. i do what i want. look, that guy over there loading sausages onto the grill that, that's work. this is not so bad. it's all right. i'll make it. >> anthony: if people work hard like they do in construction it is expected that they be well fed and in buenos aires well fed

means, yeah, you guessed it. how often do they do this? >> mico: once a week on fridays. they used to do it every day but economic, you know, the meat is really expensive. >> anthony: meat's really expensive now. >> mico: i always remember, you know, walking down the street and you just smell the -- >> anthony: you smell it from the construction sights. >> mico: yeah, yeah. >> anthony: so most construction sights they do like this? >> mico: mm-hmm, everyone. >> anthony: mico, lead singer of octaphonic -- hola. -- like nearly every porteño knows good beef and where to find it. sweet. >> mico: gracias. >> anthony: mm. it's good. if you work hard you need a big hunk of meat. >> mico: it's a, you know, from the low, low chain of the meat but it really has a lot of fat and it's -- >> anthony: right. good for you. >> mico: yeah.

he says that we need some wine, red wine. >> anthony: yeah, right. >> mico: i saw some construction sights that they have -- >> anthony: that they serve wine? >> mico: yeah. yeah. >> anthony: man. >> mico: i guess, uh, the owners of this construction especially are strict about it. >> anthony: i'd be a little nervous. >> mico: yeah, of course. >> anthony: guys up on the top floor. >> mico: 50 meters, yeah. >> anthony: so, where are most of these guys from? >> mico: son, son todos acaba ustedes? o paraguayo tambien? dos son paraguayo? we, we got one from paraguay here. a lot from argentina. >> anthony: from buenos aires? or from outside of buenos aires? >> mico: usually from inside, from the provinces. >> anthony: and how long has the job lasted? >> mico: i was asking. it started one year and a half ago. >> anthony: wow. that's a long time. >> mico: mm-hmm. >> anthony: how much work is there? a lot? a little? i mean, after this another job? >> mico: tienen trabajo despues de este, no? termina este van a otro? >> mico: yeah. i guess they jump from, from construction to construction. >> anthony: so they're working regular always. >> mico: yeah. mm-hmm.

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>> anthony: i'm flyin' out, uh, you know, in just a few hours. >> nicolas: and you're going now next to, to, to rome? it's such a beautiful city. >> anthony: no, next brazil then to japan. nashville, vietnam, houston. you know, like, there's the evil cheeseburger that sets me off, the evil hamburger, suddenly i'm super depressed for days. it's like that with the good stuff, too.

i have a couple of happy minutes there where i'm thinking, "ah, life is pretty good." this is cool, i'm enjoying this. >> nicolas: yeah. it's like the movies but cheaper. >> anthony: yeah, right. >> nicolas: the pilot of the airplane saying hi to the kids. >> anthony: wow. what's in the box, man, what's in there? >> nicolas: oh. here we have wittebeer which is, like, workman's bitter. it's a kind of vermouth. >> anthony: yeah, i'll have some of that.

>> nicolas: so, how did you do in therapy? >> anthony: my therapy? oh, i feel all better now. >> nicolas: yeah? >> anthony: all better. what do you think? how, how, i mean, is there hope for me? >> marina: em -- wow. >> anthony: oh boy. that's not, that doesn't sound promising. >> marina: i think what is good is the, that you start thinking, or keep thinking about what's wrong in your life, what do you want to change, and, especially, what, what do you feel you can change. >> anthony: i was kind of hoping for a prescription for, like, morphine. was this an unreasonable -- >> marina: you should tell me before. i think you should, you should keep doing therapy, tony. >> anthony: yeah, me too. you're, you're probably right. >> marina: yes, yes, tony. >> nicolas: i love staying in buenos aires in summer and i love when the streets are empty.

i love this city. i was born here this huge metropolis where a lot of cultures melt. people from all tin america and people from asia and people from europe, the personality of buenos aires is made from the melt of cultures. >> anthony: when i get back to new york i'll tell you i'm gonna get off that plane i'm gonna make myself a big salad. excuse me, kid. pardon, sorry for the language. all right. what do you say we get some sausages? >> nicolas: yes. -- captions by vitac -- www.vitac.com

♪ ♪ i took a walk through this beautiful world ♪ ♪ felt the cool rain on my shoulder ♪ ♪ found something good in this beautiful world ♪