[ church bells ringing ] ♪ >> anthony: you go up this beautiful mountain. this incredible town. and it goes back to the 12th century. but people trudge up the hill to the beautiful church. they take the walk that michael corleone took. now and forevermore, it will be sort of the "godfather" theme park where they're just playing the "godfather" theme over and over. >> mary: i think most thoughtful sicilians are disgusted by this. [ singing "godfather" theme ]

>> anthony: imagine that waking up every day. as one bus after another filled with japanese tourists go up there. "oh look, michael corleone got married there. oh, it's so fantastic!" [ laughter ] ♪ i took a walk through this beautiful world ♪ ♪ felt the cool rain on my shoulder ♪ ♪ found something good in this ♪ i felt the rain getting colder ♪ ♪ sha, la, la, la, la, la, ♪ sha, la, la, la, la, la, ♪ sha, la, la, la, la, la, ♪ sha, la, la, la, la ♪

>> anthony: it's one of the most beautiful places in europe. a place whose roots are very much the roots of the town where i live. but somehow i've never been able to get it right. to tell the story, any story, of sicily. it's the biggest island in the mediterranean. two main towns are palermo and catania on opposite sides. i've done a show in palermo before. it was an epic goat rodeo. a failure of humiliating scale. this time i was gonna get it right. there's the sicily we know from films. an evocative, deeply felt history that's not quite reality but cool anyway, right? there's the simple fact of its location, tucked away under the boot of italy. part of, but not really part, of that country. [ man in market speaking italian ] >> anthony: its own language, culture, its own history of norman, arab, spanish, roman,

turkish, egyptian interlopers, all leaving their mark and their influences. i grew up in new jersey, which was pretty much sicily on the hudson. the italian-americans next door weren't from milan. i can tell you that much. [ man in market speaking italian ] >> anthony: i guess what i'm telling you is i figured, this will be easy. villa monaci delle terre nere -- a certified agriturismo. meaning, it's a hotel, restaurant, and working farm that in this case produces olive oil. how many acres of property do you have? >> guido: uh, it's about 40 acres. and it's one of the oldest organic farms. >> anthony: this is guido, the proprietor. oh, so that's where potatoes come from. how freakin' hard can it be to make an awesome show in sicily?

eat the nice food, drink the wine, in an idyllic villa in the countryside outside catania. how low impact can it get? so the plan was we go fishing. we get some fresh octopus, maybe some cuttlefish, explore the bounty of the surrounding waters. all while working on our tans. with a local chef, fisherman, man of the sea. he's experienced. he knows where to get it good. >> turi: do you like sea urchin? >> anthony: i love it. love it. how do you say in italian? >> turi: ricci. >> anthony: ricci. yes. >> turi: riccio di mare. >> anthony: one of my favorite things to eat. this is turi. my host. what else is out there, octopus? >> turi: octopus, and also cuttlefish. >> anthony: oh yeah. >> turi: bravo. i want to try to find some small abalone. >> anthony: nice. >> turi: and also, there's a clam.

the underwater is still cold. i think they will be really full. >> anthony: i'm thinking, really? are these prime fishing waters? i don't know about this. with all this boat traffic and all these people and so close to the action, i can't see much of anything living down there. >> turi: okay, perfecto. we anchor here. >> anthony: but i am famous for my optimism. so i dutifully suited up for what was advertised as a three-hour cruise. so i get in the water, and i'm paddling around, and splash. suddenly, there's a dead sea creature sinking slowly to the seabed in front of me. are they kidding me? i'm thinking, can this be happening? splash, there's another one. another rigor mortised, half-frozen freakin' octopus. but it goes on, one dead cuttlefish, deceased octopus,

frozen sea urchin after another, splash, splash, splash. each specimen drops among the rock or along the seafloor to be heroically discovered by turi moments later and proudly shown off to camera. like i'm not actually watching as his confederate in the next boat over hurls them into the water one after another. i'm no marine biologist, but i know dead octopus when i see one. i'm pretty sure they don't drop from the sky and then sink straight to the bottom. >> turi: how many we have octopus? three? >> anthony: yeah. >> turi: okay. i try to get some now, and also some -- small abalones. >> anthony: strangely everyone else pretends to believe the hideous sham unfolding before our eyes, doing their best to ignore the blindingly obvious. [ turi speaking italian ] >> anthony: then they gave up

and just dumped a whole bag of dead fish into the sea. [ turi speaking italian ] >> anthony: at this point, i begin desperately looking for signs of life. hoping that one of them would stir, become revived. i'm frantically swimming around the bottom littered with dead things, looking for one that's still twitching so i could hold it up to the camera and end this misery. but no, my shame would be absolute. for some reason i feel something snap, and i slide quickly, deeply into a spiral of near hysterical depression. is this what it's come to, i'm thinking, as another dead squid narrowly misses my head? almost a decade later back in the same country, and i'm still desperately staging fishing scenes, seeding the ocean with supermarket seafood, complicit in a shameful, shameful incident of fakery?

but there i was bobbing listlessly in the water. dead sea life sinking to the bottom all around me. you got to be pretty immune to the world to not see some kind ofbvious methor. [ turi speaking italn ] >> anthony: i've never had a nervous breakdown before, but i tell you from the bottom of my heart, something fell apart down there, and it took a long, long time after the end this damn episode to recover. ♪ ♪

♪ >> turi: and if i do it longer, we don't need to boil. [ boy speaking italian ] [ turi speaking italian ] [ boys speaking italian ] >> anthony: raw clams, abalone and a heartwarming beach scene surrounded by a gaggle of curious and hungry kids. it was at this point about the only possible way for turi to redeem himself. [ turi speaking italian ] [ boys speaking italian ] >> anthony: you'll notice, i'm not there. i'm sitting in a nearby café, pounding one negroni after

another in a smoldering, miserable rage. our evening meal will be a turi's place osteria nero davola, which is just up the hill in taormina. by the time dinner rolls around, i'm ripped to the -- did i mention it's my birthday? i've had three hours of bobbing around on a pitching boat, couple more hours getting looped, two more hours lying on a sidewalk outside the restaurant while the crew hangs lights so i'm gone, baby, gone. i don't remember any of this. any of it. >> tomaso: so how's your day today? >> anthony: it was good. i had a nice boat trip. little swim. i would be told later that a gentleman named tomaso had joined me for dinner. also someone on the crew mentioned that his wife was present and that she didn't say much. presumably because this was not her preferred way to spend her birthday. >> turi: hi. >> anthony: hi. >> turi: tony. this is my passion. i like to find a whole variety of olive and one of these is white. >> anthony: so that's the original.

>> tomaso: yes, original, yes. in fact, you don't find any place else. >> anthony: apparently there were these white olives harvested from some secret tree only turi knows about. maybe it's next to his secret fishing hole. there was great sicilian wine, apparently, and apparently i drank quite a lot of it. there was bread and olive oil. abalone served raw in the shell. baby sardine called neonata, also served raw with a splash of citrus and salt. >> turi: and this is the baby sardine. totally raw without not much ingredients. it tastes better with fish. saluté. >> anthony: thank you. >> tomaso: if you ask a sicilian right, say, "where you come from?", the correct answer should be, "i'm italian." >> anthony: right. >> tomaso: no, we say, "i'm sicilian." >> anthony: is sicily italy? >> tomaso: yes. >> anthony: should it be? >> tomaso: i don't know, but we used to have influence from britains, romans, arab, spanish. so basically we are a mix.

we're a blender. >> anthony: oh look, my octopus. i remember personally catching that one. it was a mighty struggle too. no, actually, i don't. yeah, the octopus. pretty. oh beautiful little shrimp. mm, very tender, the octopus. very nice. and another traditional specialty. i'm told they call this tuna tartare. and cuttlefish, i recognize you, my friend. now crudo like this. how traditional is this to sicily? >> turi: i think from the part of the sea they almost eat it raw. >> anthony: always. >> turi: yes. >> anthony: but fisherman only, fishing communities only or in restaurants? >> turi: no. >> anthony: always as long as you've been alive, you go to a restaurant, you see crudo like this. >> turi: no. i see crudo in the poor family. >> anthony: so it's not like there's japanese influence, but the japanese sort of gave everybody permission to eat

traditional foods, their own traditional food. what are the great mother sicilian classic dishes? >> tomaso: the anchovy. anchovy and parmigiana. >> tomaso's wife: parmigiana. >> turi: pasta con le sarde. >> anthony: okay, that's -- >> turi: i think it is for me -- >> anthony: with the sardine. >> turi: yeah, but it's an explosion of flavor because this plate it's born in a period when sicily was very poor. >> anthony: this i like. i even remember it. pasta al finocchietto. actually, a true sicilian classic made with fennel, pine nuts, saffron, and anchovy. served alongside some sardines that have been curing in chestnuts and salt for days, then lightly fried in oil. >> tomaso: we have to use our hand. you have to use your hand to eat the fish. >> anthony: no problem. i must've slunk back to bed somehow, collapsed into a sodden, drunken heap of self-loathing.

i would ordinarily have turned on the porn channel and maybe loaded up on prescription meds. but there's no tv at the agriturismo. afoot and light-hearted i take to the open road. healthy, free, the world before me, the long brown path before me leading wherever i choose. the east and the west are mine. the north and the south are mine. all seems beautiful to me. whattwo servings of veggies? v8 or a powdered drink? ready, go.

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magnificent opera, but basically a morality tale about loyalty and destroying the things you claim to love and want to protect. actual organized crime members, generally speaking, a bunch of spectacularly uneducated, lazy-ass sociopaths who have no problem stealing from their own harder-working neighbors. here in sicily, their interests are less glamorous than gambling and prostitution. they are and have traditionally been a gigantic, parasitical organism. one that has now grown to be of mere equal size as its host. mary taylor simeti is originally from new york, but she's been living here in palermo for half a century now. she's a food writer, and at one time, a reformer for social justice, which is a dicey thing to be here. you've been here all this time? well, why? >> mary: well, i came for a year.

it was gonna be a year between college and graduate school. i had just finished college. i met a man. and there -- therein lies the tale. i married a sicilian. and i've lived here ever since. >> anthony: piccolo napoli. it's a restaurant like a lot of others around here except for the quality of its food. tell me about -- where are we, first of all. >> mary: okay. the father and mother of the present governor opened this in 1951, and there's a wonderful photograph there on the wall of the opening day. it starts as really a tavern and has become a well-known and much-appreciated restaurant now. it's very straightforward sicilian cooking at its best. >> anthony: we start with some typical things. the kind of things i deeply love. the kind of simple good things that make me happy. panelle, which is fritter made from chickpeas. some caponata, a sweet and sour eggplant dish kind of like

ratatouille but more arab in influence, a plate of olives, and some white wine, produced from a small batch vineyard run by mary and her husband. so this is panelle? >> mary: panelle. chickpea flour, probably came in with the arabs, maybe even earlier because chickpeas have been around for a long time. >> anthony: and this is the caponata. >> mary: caponata. >> anthony: about as sicilian as it gets. >> mary: yes. caponata and cannoli are the two internationally known sicilian dishes. [ chef speaking italian ] >> anthony: this is what i've been waiting for. this is what i wanted sicily to be. something to soothe my shattered soul. it doesn't take much. a bowl of good pasta. in this case, the famous spaghetti al nero di seppia. spaghetti in cuttlefish ink. also some caserecce al pesce spada. pasta with swordfish, eggplant and tomatoes.

>> chef: okay. >> anthony: ah, beautiful. perfect. perfect pasta. very happy with that. >> mary: good. i know you've been looking forward to it. i'm glad it's good. palermo's an expensive city for some things because the consumer is paying -- >> anthony: more. >> mary: more so that the store can afford to pay its extortion money. the big change that has happened is that up until the mid '80s, the late '80s, there were a great many sicilians who thought if they were honest and didn't have anything to do with the mafia, they could live without being affected by the mafia. apparently, 80% of the businesses in palermo, and 70% in the rest of italy that pay extortion. >> anthony: that's a lot. >> mary: that's a lot, that's a lot. >> anthony: but not everybody pays the bite.

a small but growing coalition of businesses have joined a group called addio pizzo, a grassroots organization taking a stand against the mafia's traditional, near total control over the food chain, from farm to table. i come out of the restaurant business in new york. you got taxed with every laundry order, every time they took your trash away. it was built in -- >> mary: yeah. >> anthony: -- to all your basic services. >> mary: here it's much more of the -- the going around christmas and easter. >> anthony: guy comes by. >> mary: the guy comes by. i mean, it's plain and simple extortion. >> anthony: given that that's a pretty straightforward situation, some of these guys who banded together for addio pizzo, i mean, what happens, the guy shows up and says, "i'm not paying you." what happens next? >> mary: well, apparently, now the mafia has decided that it isn't worthwhile bothering with the people who belong to addio pizzo. there's so many others out there, and why look for trouble? how true it is? i don't know. >> anthony: right.

>> mary: to belong to addio pizzo, you have to sign a pledge that you will not pay and that if you are approached, you will go to the police. >> anthony: right. >> mary: then they send you to lawyers and to another organization, which deals with other people who are actually having trouble. it'sncredibly complicated. there are no easy answers. what about big farm? what about some of the -- some of the things that are happening on a much more legitimate level. >> anthony: i mean, who's more destructive worldwide? i mean, yes, you could make a very good argument. >> mary: that's horrible. >> anthony: right. >> mary: i'm upset because i'm sounding as if i'm making apologies for the mafia. it's just i think, what has happened that having lived 50 years in sicily, i'm much more skeptical than most americans. >> anthony: right. >> mary: i don't know that -- >> anthony: i know what you're saying. you're saying, you not so sure that a mafia-free italy would they be that much more functional. >> mary: no. no, absolutely. i mean --

>> anthony: i'm not so sure. >> mary: i'm not sure at all. but i am constantly amused by the fact that 45 years ago, if i said to americas, if i said, "i live in sicily." "in sicily? how's a nice girl like you end up in a place like that?" >> anthony: really? >> mary: now it's -- [ gasps ] "on a farm in sicily, how romantic! oh i envy you!" so perception of sicily -- >> anthony: it has changed. >> mary: enormous. enormous. >> anthony: in 2007, there were only 160 addio pizzo members. now, over 800. pretty cool considering we're talking about a group who have demonstrated no regret or hesitation in killing judges, politicians, police, prosecutors. back to catania. and when you're talking late-night dining options, you're talking one thing. the enticing smell of smoke, wafting through the streets, the smell that's enticingly equine.

i smell rainbow dash. [ men speaking italian ] >> anthony: anthony and marco. a couple of sicilians and aficionados of macelleria equina. >> marco: it's one of the other side, famous, you know, for all families of mafia, you know that grows in crime organization here. >> anthony: right here? >> marco: yeah, yeah. yeah. yeah. nowadays seems to be maybe like a bit more quiet, because they are all getting arrested, so they prefer to sell meat. >> anthony: ah. >> marco: against drugs. >> anthony: so right over there you have -- you can bet on a horse? >> marco: you can bet horses, yes.

people like to bet horse, and here you eat the one that lose. >> anthony: right. >> marco: the loser goes in the fire. it's not a nice thing, but i mean, sometimes happens for real ah? >> anthony: cycle of life. all right. >> italian anthony: buona sera, buona sera, buona sera. >> anthony: so why horse? where does this tradition come from? >> marco: from arabs. maybe also the egyptians. then we have greeks, 750 years before christ. then we have romans. because we have to say that sicilian are big bastards. we -- yeah, of course. because we are being conquered by everybody. also our dialect. there are many words that are understood by arab people. if i say a sicilian dialect word, maybe an arab can understand me. an italian no, because italian language comes from latin. something different. we are sicilians before to be italians. >> anthony: right. >> marco: remember this. >> anthony: oh god, i -- i'll never forget. >> marco: look at the fat on the side of the meat.

it's yellow, it's not white. when it's yellow, means that this horse has been breeded eating fresh grass. [ men speaking italian ] >> anthony: tear and go. >> marco: you like the taste? >>nthony: oh it's good. >> marco: it's a bit sweet uh? simple, you don't need nothing. horse meat, cipe it's loved by quite everybody here. you know? >> italian anthony: you can have -- we can have also meatballs. anthony, we can have also a meatball. >> anthony: as you wish man, whatever. >> italian anthony: okay. >> anthony: whatever, i'll try anything. >> marco: it's a mix of different things, you know? scrambled bread, parmesan cheese, pecorino.

>> anthony: right. >> marco: parsley, eggs. and of course -- >> anthony: and horse. >> marco: horse. >> anthony: it is very tasty. let's put it this way. when my daughter asks me for a pony, i'm bringing her here, pointing at that griddle and saying, "here's your -- pony." ♪is it manwich night? ♪ put some manwich on the table... and give boring weeknight meals, the night off. ♪make tonight a manwich night

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>> anthony: parco dei nebrodi is a national park and within that is this free-range pig farm. they breed these special heritage pigs there. the black boar of nebrodi. combination of wild sicilian boar and domesticated swine, thought to have been brought here from spain long ago, this breed of pig is raising the profile of the pig here. >> man: the smell of -- of shit everywhere, huh? look, look, they hear now the noise. of the car, they will arrive. fantastica. >> anthony: like any good-tasting high-quality pig, this secret is largely what were they fed, how did they live, were they happy? >> man: i'm a hunter, i never seen so many in once. it's like i feel uh -- >> anthony: you should be

shooting something. >> man: yeah! respectable lot, eh? >> anthony: a poorly fed pig, who lived his life in squalor, stress and fear, makes for bad pork. this is why we should treat animals well. not just because that's the nice thing to do. but because it makes them proveably more delicious. [ woman speaking italian ] >> anthony: chestnuts, acorns, roots and stuff foraged from the hills, supplemented by some nice fattening grain during the winter months, when wild food is less easy and less plentiful. >> man: they catch here the animal only with the trunk. >> anthony: right. >> man: it's a shame that they don't let you shoot. >> anthony: i like pigs. not to hang out with, to eat. i don't have a tattoo of a pig or anything, but i like 'em fine. and when given the opportunity

to shoot one in the brain, or see one shot in the brain, so that i may have its entrails or other parts, i'm down. that's what's called cheering me up from some manic depression. bang. and this pig is like paulie. you won't see him no more. it's dead. [ men speaking italian ] >> anthony: even with the brain dead, the heart still goes on beating, sort of like,h, pick a kardashian. in this case, however, those last few beats of the heart are absolutely necessary to pump all that red, red into a bucket, for sanguinaccio. the salt helps keep it from coagulating prematurely. [ man speaking italian ] >> anthony: lookin' good. >> man: and so fast, incredible. >> anthony: there's a kardashian joke here somewhere. kim gets ready for the big day.

it's date night at khloe's house. real housewife gets ready for summer. grooming tips from teresa giudice. i got a million of 'em. let's hope kanye never has to see this. oh! >> man: we hang now. >> anthony: then, get to work. >> man: very fast, eh? >> anthony: all those good bits, the lungs, kidneys, they get cooked slowly in fat with garlic, chili pepper, little wine. is the meat also what -- the liver? [ woman speaking italian ] >> anthony: so it's all its interior. >> man: all the interior with a little bit of the fat. >> anthony: it's like pork confit.

>> man: yeah. >> anthony: ah, that's pretty. meanwhile, the intestinal casings get filled with blood and gently poached, until creamy, bloody delicious. and a nice spread of homemade cured meats, local cheese, and homemade wine. let the party begin. so, what do we have here? let's identify these products. uh, capicola? >> man: capicola. >> anthony: uh, that's the sliced prosciutto. >> man: that's the prosciutto, yeah. >> anthony: lard? >> man: lardo. >> anthony: pancetta? >> man: mm-hmm. >> anthony: that's -- oh, that looks good. >> man: the cheese is a local. this is a ricotta, and it's just cooked in the oven. >> anthony: the -- the bread? >> man: the bread is from the uncle. and uh, they have also salami, and they have sausages. >> anthony: and this cheese?

[ man speaking italian ] >> anthony: and what do you call these? [ anthony speaking italian ] >> man: they carry it on a -- just uh, on a pan. >> anthony: right. beautiful. mm. that's good. >> man: oh, the best moment of the day. >> anthony: indeed. oh yeah. >> man: what you think about this cheese? >> antho: it good. but for me, the ricotta is really good. >> man: i think it's a complete country, this place. you discover sicily, and expect that -- i think that very few people know this is incredible. even the bread, the old lady she made. >> anthony: ah. you think of sicily, you think of family, you think of food. this is more like it.

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[ speaking italian ]

>> tomaso: we'll stop here for the shrimp. >> anthony: catania, the early morning market. it's been going on for longer than america's had a country. it's old, old, i tells ya. do they know you here? you shop here often? >> tomaso: yeah. >> anthony: this is not tomaso' first trip to the market by a long shot. his mom is a regular. she comes here almost every day. the eggs. >> tomaso: and you see this is a mix up, you can find here everything. each butcher, more likely they have their own specialty. fresh ingredients, you know the lamb? yeah, they do lamb, and the sausage, the hamburger, the -- this is the pecorino, at least it's about six months old. over here, this is the place where she buy the spices from for home. and the veggies.

[ man speaking italian ] >> anthony: this is what the market is best known for. seafood. >> tomaso: buongiorno, carlo. this one is one of the biggest retailers that we have in the fish market. you can see also the variety. >> anthony: yeah. >> tomaso: we consider the tuna like a pig. we don't throw away anything. see this is a typical, you can find only here. >> anthony: those are the tiny, tiny little clams, yeah? >> tomaso: yes. this is another thing. >> anthony: oh, whelks. >> tomaso: in sicilian, they call -- you can see the shrimp, normally still alive. >> anthony: so i see cuttle -- seppia? baby? >> tomaso: yeah, baby sardines. >> anthony: swordfish. i'm joining tomaso for lunch

today. mom's cooking, so we gotta do some shopping. [ tomaso speaking italian ] >> anthony: they look beautiful. >> tomaso: yeah. the color is beautiful. and buongiorno. we're gonna have a little today, so the shrimp, and the -- >> anthony: baby sardine. >> tomaso: grazie. after you. what do you wanna try? the blood sausage? >> anthony: sanguinaccio? >> tomaso: sanguinaccio. >> anthony: just blood? no onion, no spice, nothing. little salt? pepper? do you squeeze it? >> tomaso: no, no, no. >> anthony: whole thing. mm.

[ tomaso's mom speaking italian ] >> anthony: what is that like? oh, man. >> tomaso: is the intestine -- wrapped in salt. >> anthony: ah, that's good. usually i don't like tripe plain. i like it in a sauce or spicy. this -- that's very tasty. looks like hell, tastes like heaven. if you like this, you're sicilian. >> tomaso: you're right. [ laughs ] [ tomaso's mom speaking italian ] (vo) what's your dog food's first ingredient? corn? wheat? in purina one true instinct grain free,

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>> anthony: i don't have any grandparents. my mom, i guess she cooks, but the last time she ever invited me for dinner was like 1972. so given that tragic dysfunctional too much information kind of history, is it any mystery why i'm always on the lookout for grandma? anybody's grandma will do. hell, i've been known to cruise rural state highways, looking for hitchhiking grannies to abduct so they'll cook for me. and given my fragile emotional state, it makes perfect sense

that i've dragooned tomaso's mom into making me a nice lunch. is that heartwarming? or like creepy and sad? hey, it smells good in here. >> tomaso: let's go open wine in the meantime? all right. >> anthony: cheers. do you need any help chopping parsleys? ah, perfect. for lunch, we got the shrimp and sardines from earlier at the market. but first, this. just grab one? it's like arancini, but with a hollowed out potato, filled with cheese, breaded, and fried. mm. ooh. delicious. >> tomaso: basically we do the finish when the potatoes are ready, and filled with all the cheese, they dip in the -- in the eggs to seal the potato. and then the crumb bread, and fried. my mother used to cook for everybody, even if it was midnight. my parents' house was the focus of friends, of my friends. so if we have to something where you want to share some time, all together, and they have dinner,

it's my mother's cooking for everybody. because the problem here is that when she cooks, even if she knows that it's only for five people, she cooking for ten. >> anthony: ten. just in case. more caponata. this is sicily after all, and this is the classic starter. also, a bread and tomato salad. >> tomaso: would you like to try something? >> anthony: that's old school. >> tomaso: we toast -- we toast the bread to make it a little bit harder. and normally we dotwo -- two days old. >> anthony: right. it's really good. really, really good. that's sicily right there. >> tomaso: right. yes. >> anthony: fresh shrimp, sautéed in garlic, butter, and herbs. i've noticed over time as i travel around the world that

every great and enlightened culture, when they are confronted with the shrimp, or a prawn, right away. >> tomaso: that is the way you see if it's fresh or not. >> anthony: so, typical day when you were 15 years old. what did you eat for lunch? >> tomaso: we'll never missing pasta for lunch. >> anthony: pasta and meat? or pasta and fish? >> tomaso: yes. and fish. of course something lovely. basically you have to go right behind the corner to find your products. so whatever you can produce in sicily, that's who she used to buy. >>nthony: watch this, she can zip the bone right out. out comes all the bone. who needs a knife? sardines filleted neatly, sautéed in garlic and oil, a little red pepper. that's a beautiful thing, right there. [ tomaso speaking italian ] >> anthony: good. here i'll be speaking italian. well, i'll be speaking sicilian. [ tomaso's mom speaking

italian ] >> anthony: yes. you have to eat it hot. this is very nice. yeah, if you don't like this there's really no hope for you. [ tomaso's mom speaking italian ] >> tomaso: there's something that you don't like it? >> anthony: everything is fantastic. because it's tough on grease yet gentle. i am home, i am home, i am home

♪ if you've got the time welcome to the high life. ♪ we've got the beer

♪ miller beer

♪ >> anthony: my last night in sicily. and after this, i'm going back to new york, crawling under my bed and adopting a fetal position for like six weeks. can i cut some vegetables? i may look normal. okay, i don't exactly, but i'm not barking uncontrollably or running around shrieking with my pants wrapped around my head, which is what my instincts are telling me i should be doing. to me, one of life's great joys is cheese. no, i'm eating cheese, which makes me happy. always. and drinking wine. good wine. and a hell of a lot of it. and i'll just make it over the hump, with any luck at all. we have a mozzarella here, a pecorino. turi joins me for a final meal,

along with antonio, guido, and guido's girlfriend, ana. this is an agriturismo. this is not a concept that exists in america, but it is a concept that should exist. okay, noplease explain what it is. >> guido: agriturismo is an hotel linked to the territory. you have to use local product, local recipe. >> anthony: penne with sundried tomatoes, zucchini, all from the farm. oh, man, that looks good. >> guido: wow. wow, wow, wow, wow, fantastic. >> anthony: whoa.

some nice rabbit, olive oil, also from the farm. more wine, i might just make it. what -this is called agrodolce. it's bitter. if you talk about italy as a whole, it is the most interesting aspect of italian cuisine. not just gastronomically, but philosophically. because it is a philosophical thing. life is too good. i need a little bitterness to remind myself of the eternal tragedy of our existence. >> turi: you're right. the part sweet and sour of the life. >> anthony: one final attempt before i go to extract something meaningful on what it means to be sicilian. what's wrong with these people

in the north? >> guido: people from the south are coming from these greek street culture, where, the philosopher. while in the north, the austrian came through. so -- >> anthony: oh, that's the harshest, meanest thing anyone can say. >> guido: very practical people. and figured out that the last century, the three best writers in italy are from sicily. >> antonio: because they consider us just like a weight when there are problems. >> anthony: right. >> antonio: but finally on summer they all come here to make vacation. it's a good thing for us, you know? >> anthony: in the end, it all comes back to the "godfather". we go up this beautiful mountain, it's this incredible town, it goes back to the 12th century. there are few places on earth more beautiful. but there we are sitting and what [ sings "godfather" theme ] it was like a "godfather" theme park. "oh look, michael corleone got

married there. it's so fantastic!" >> antonio: do you know i just look these people, you know, with the "godfather" t-shirt and i say, "oh my god." >> guido: why people get stuck on these -- i love the "godfather" movie, because there is this big sense of fate. >> anthony: michael had many options. he destroyed his family. and everybody, everything he touched. >> guido: in a way, it's fair. >> anthony: so it's fair. >> guido: coppola did a good movie for sure. >> anthony: coppola. he didn't -- it up. >> guido: no. >> anthony: no. >> guido: no. [ wind blowing ] ♪ ♪