>> anthony: for most of my life, libya was a word with bad associations. libya meant gaddafi. libya meant terrorism. >> reporter: pan am flight 103 went down in a blazing fireball. >> anthony: libya meant a bad place where a comical megalomaniacal dictator was the absolute power. nobody in libya, however, was laughing. >> reporter: reports of explosions. >> reporter: clashes between rioters and security forces. >> anthony: in 2011, what was previously unthinkable happened. the libyan people rose up and fought for their freedom. >> reporter: heavy battles raging around the libyan capital. >> anthony: they fought like hell. >> reporter: the rebels are about to force gaddafi's complete departure. >> anthony: and they recorded the whole thing on their cell phones.

[chanting "libya"] ♪ i took a walk through this beautiful world ♪ ♪ felt the cool rain on my shoulder ♪ ♪ found something good in this beautiful world ♪ ♪ i felt the rain getting colder ♪ ♪ sha, la, la, la, la, la, ♪ sha, la, la, la, la, la, ♪ sha, la, la, la, la, la, ♪ sha, la, la, la, la, ♪ >> anthony: it's amazing arriving here after all you see on tv these days that libya is in fact functioning at all.

but it is. the fountains across from the corniche are operating. traffic works. kind of. >> man: [yelling] >> anthony: at the radisson, club sandwiches arrive on time in the lobby. the occasional flash of camo and a security scanner are really the only discordant notes. >> man: don't. don't. he don't want to take the video. >> man: yeah, oh, they don't. okay. >> anthony: inside the old part of the city, men slaughter a camel, while a girl records it with her ipad. [ speaking arabic ] >> anthony: no? okay. he said no. kids are setting off fireworks in the medina. incoming. tomorrow is the prophet muhammad's birthday. and people who have not known freedom for nearly 50 years are ready to celebrate. ♪

>> anthony: martyr's square is filled with families, kids, teenaged skater boys, and hotshots on motorcycles. it's wild. and almost giddily happy. [ speaking arabic ] [ laughter ] >> anthony: oh, man. young men in the camouflage pants of the militias, most of whom were civilians until last year, do their best to sporadically keep order, or just join in the fun. every kid above the age of five seems to have been issued a lighter and a fistful of fireworks. [ speaking arabic ] >> anthony: ambulances idle on the margins of the square to treat fireworks-related injuries, of which there will be many.

>> man: no, no, no! >> anthony: that was good. ♪ >> man: whoa! bye, bye, bye, bye, bye, bye, bye! >> anthony: this is tripoli, after 42 years of nightmare. how to build a whole society overnight and make it work in one of the most contentious and difficult areas of the world, is what people are trying to figure out. [call to prayer]

>> anthony: so, before the war, did you think it would ever be possible? >> man: no. >> anthony: did you dream someday this will change? >> omar: no, no, no. in gaddafi's time, you cannot say a word. you get killed. that's it. it was impossible. but then i joined the group, you know? >> anthony: right. >> omar: the revolutionary. >> anthony: omar is young, and was even younger when the fighting started. he, like so many libyans from around the country and many who had left, heeded the calls for

revolution on facebook and twitter. they fought in tripoli, benghazi, misrata, and everywhere in between. who won this war? the young people? or everybody? >> omar: everybody. but the young people, they started it. >> anthony: what was your day like as a revolutionary? >> omar: you keep one thought in your mind. you do this for the next generation. for a better country. for a better life. >> anthony: you have a future now. before, people -- >> omar: yeah. >> anthony: you know what people say. >> omar: there was no future in libya before gaddafi's regime. we're not going to sugarcoat it. we were slaves for the gaddafi. >> anthony: oh, this looks good. >> omar: yeah, it is. >> anthony: barracuda is a seafood restaurant just outside of town, on the mediterranean coast. >> omar: one of the best foods in libya, i think, the seafood. >> anthony: the menu is not printed on paper. it's laid out right there for you, on ice. >> omar: we have, uh, dote here. >> anthony: what do they do? they just grill that? >> omar: yeah, they open it and grill it. some garlic, some sauce. it's really awesome. >> anthony: you pick out the stuff that interests you from the daily catch. >> anthony: okay, let's get one of these. one of these. >> omar: some shrimps. calamari, too. >> anthony: and they cook it for you the way you want. >> omar: grilled dote. ♪ >> anthony: oh, beautiful. ♪ mmmm. >> omar: wow. >> anthony: that's delicious. >> omar: this is the stuffed calamari, libyan-style. with so many seafood stuffed

inside of it, like a turkey. >> anthony: mmm. good sauce. >> omar: wow. >> anthony: mmm. man, we are living large today. >> omar: yes, we are. >> anthony: bismillah. >> omar: bismillah. [laughs] >> anthony: so, what were you doing before the war? >> omar: i was travel agent. >> anthony: you were a travel agent? >> omar: yes. and i was studying, too, in medical school. >> anthony: many of the people who started the revolution, who fought in the streets with makeshift weapons, were like omar --- medical students, garage mechanics, or simply teenagers. they transformed themselves in a matter of months from kids playing playstation to hardened fighters and field medics. >> omar: nobody believed that he can be removed. really. >> anthony: extraordinary.

>> omar: yeah. >> anthony: how quickly after the uprising started did you begin to think that, "wow, this is possible, that we might actually win?" >> omar: the first day, when the uprise -- >> anthony: first day? >> omar: yeah. >> anthony: the day before, you're thinking, "impossible." >> omar: it's impossible. >> anthony: "we'll be stuck with this son of a bitch forever." >> omar: whatsoever. >> anthony: and then, a few hours later it's like, "wow, this might work." >> omar: seeing groups with you going toward the martyr's square, demanding their rights, at that moment, you feel that you can do anything, that this -- you can, you can, this can -- this is going to happen. everything, and if it didn't, well, i've died trying doing it. at least we've died like men doing it. ♪ >> anthony: so much has changed around town. so much is changing. new music. graffiti. these things, they mean something. ♪ [laughs] ♪ [call to prayer]

>> anthony: but centuries of strict social and religious values keep some things solidly the same. alcohol, for instance, is strictly forbidden. men and women follow hierarchal roles as before. since the revolution, there's a tug-of-war over what is acceptable. [singing] >> anthony: outside a mosque in the medina, men fill the narrow street to celebrate muhammad's birthday. [singing] ♪ >> anthony: snacks are passed around. [singing] >> anthony: women watch and record from the rooftops.

[singing] ♪ ♪ >> anthony: there aren't a lot of conflicts in the world where there's a clear bad guy. clearly there was a bad guy here. >> michel: yeah. exactly. i mean, the one thing about gaddafi is he believed he was the most important human being almost that had ever existed. i mean, he changed the names of the months. he changed the dates of the islamic calendar. such, uh, megalomania. and, as you well know, anyone outside -- you mention the word

"libya," everyone would just say, "gaddafi." >> anthony: yeah. >> michel: gaddafi stole the identity of libya. >> anthony: michel cousins is the co-founder of the english-language paper the libya herald, and has known several different libyas in his lifetime. >> michel: for so long, the news has been the personality. gaddafi turned up to open a shopping center. gaddafi turned up to open an envelope. those of us who knew libya, who knew there was another libya, uh, wonderful people, we would talk about it as you talk about a dead person. "do you remember this? do you remember that?" and then in february 2011, suddenly, there was resurrection. the dead came back to life. >> anthony: we meet at a libyan coffeehouse, a traditional, male-only sort of a joint. café culture is big here, a holdover from the days of italian colonization, when

mussolini tried to rebuild rome's long-lost empire. >> michel: it's just been the most amazing experience seeing the rebirth of a country, of a people. >> anthony: i mean, last night's fireworks. there was a general sense of exuberance, bordering on anarchy. i mean, i felt very happy there last night, uh, if somewhat in peril. >> michel: yeah, well, it's christmas. it's whatever. it's the fourth of july rolled into one. but it also, there are people who are trying to stop it, sort of puritans, extremists, if you want to say, militants. and what has happened is people have come out in defiance of that. they're showing, "we want to have fun." and remember, for a long time in libya, you couldn't have fun. the biggest misconception is that the place is turning into another afghanistan and iraq, where you've got bombs go off, attacks. but it's not. as you've seen. libyans have gone through an awful time, having fought for freedom. people have died. people have struggled. and that's going to hold them together. ♪ (burke) at farmers, we've seen almost everything,

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>> anthony: kids are selling fireworks across from the marcus aurelius arch. one is constantly reminded that libya was once a vital part of the ancient roman empire. that was nearly 2,000 years ago. tonight, i was told, was going to be an even bigger, wilder celebration in martyr's square. but something has happened since last night. the british foreign office has just told all uk citizens to leave benghazi, libya's second-largest city, due to an unspecified threat. the libyan government, such as it is, has denied any basis for such drastic action. a lone cherry bomb now and again. an awkward flurry of roman candles.

the buzz of last night's chaotic partying harshed. big-time. whether or not this is a result of the larger geopolitical situation, the vibe towards this western film crew seems apprehensive, uncertain. the following day feels better. somewhat. fresh produce is for sale on tripoli's streets. if you're a small restaurant or shopping for a big family, you bring cash, a wheelbarrow, and load up with what you need. but revolution has brought changed tastes. libyans, especially young libyans, hunger for more than just freedom. they hunger for places like this.

kentaki fried chick -- uncle kentaki fried chicken. >> johar: uncle kentaki. >> anthony: okay. the colonel, and his buddies the king and the clown, have not quite made it here, given the uncertainty of the situation. so in the meantime, places like this have been popping up. uncle kentaki, awesome. do you know where kentucky is? >> johar: the kentucky is from usa. >> anthony: a part, yeah. >> johar: yeah. >> anthony: these places new? >> johar: yeah. it's new. before the gaddafi -- >> anthony: impossible. >> johar: yeah. and now, it's normal. >> anthony: oh, that's nice. >> johar: how you found it? >> anthony: spicy and delicious. bismillah. >> johar: bismillah. >> anthony: johar, like many libyans his age, fought to overthrow gaddafi. he was there, gun in hand, when they stormed gaddafi's palace compound. happy? excited?

>> johar: in the fighting? >> anthony: it was a good day? yeah. >> johar: it's give it to me nice feeling. nice feeling. the gaddafi, he's killed my cousin. how you should be feeling? if -- uh, exactly. i feeling good. because i wanted killed him. uh, i -- i don't wanted -- i don't want see anyone die more. he has killed for nothing. the first time, i think, uh, that killing people is bad. but he's, he's leave me do that. because if i don't kill him, he is kill me. >> anthony: right. it's nice to see freedom. and it's nice to see the bad guy gone. it's nice. i feel welcome here. >> johar: finally we say no for him. and he's now died. that's what we wanted. >> anthony: to johar, a few pieces of greasy fried chicken eaten in a brightly colored fast food setting, means something more than a calorie bomb. >> johar: that's we why

fighting. that's we why give it all of blood from my country. because i wanted feeling that. the taste of freedom. >> anthony: the taste of freedom. >> johar: is nice taste. >> man: food place, good? >> anthony: good food. outside tripoli's center, there's this, one-time axis of all power and untold evil. a huge complex of sinister offices, barracks, residences, on top of a rabbit warren of secret tunnels and underground facilities. the bab al-azizia -- gaddafi's

enormous compound. >> anthony: most everything belonging to or associated with gaddafi was destroyed. nato continually bombed strategic locations within the compound. and on august 23rd, 2011, it fell to the rebels, gaddafi and his family having fled. this is what's left of gaddafi's palace.

so when's the last time you were here? >> man 1: last time is when the revolution is finishing. the machine is going in first fighting. >> anthony: right. >> man 1: after that, the people. >> anthony: right. >> man 1: is who's have the guns. after then, coming a lot of people, normal people, listening about something expensive here. >> anthony: right. >> man 1: like the salt, and like the gold, and -- >> anthony: pardon? >> man 2: stop, stop now. stop now. >> anthony: what? >> man 3: they want us to stop filming right now. >> anthony: okay. while talking, we didn't notice several pickup trucks of local militia had closed in on us. >> man 2: stop, stop, stop. >> anthony: i've stopped. i've stopped. >> man: okay, uh, you stop. >> anthony: hey, just relax. >> man 3: relax. >> man 2: yeah, relax, relax.

>> man: what's happening? >> anthony: this is their turf, or their area of operation, or somehow under their control. whatever the case, they're the group in charge today. an argument ensues between our guys and their guys. all of whom fought against the same forces on this ground a year ago. >> man: they need an authorization just for this place. i'm going to ask you guys to step that side. >> man: they want to delete the tape. let's leave. they said that you had to delete what you've got. let's leave. okay. >> anthony: leave? okay. let's go. let's go. >> man: yeah. let us go. go. go. >> man: hold it down. hold it down. hold it down. and 10 grams of protein. and look where life can take you! boost®. be up for it.™

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newscaster: libya is denying that there is an imminent threat to the safety of westerners in benghazi.

now this follows britain's advice on thursday that westerners should get out of the city, warning of a specific and imminent threat. >> anthony: if you follow the news, you'll be reminded about how the lack of centralized power in the wake of the 2011 conflict has seen an increase in islamic militancy in libya. >> newscaster: westerns and libyans are still very concerned, uh, with the fragile -- >> anthony: what you see is not encouraging. kidnappings in algeria. unrest in mali. terrorist cells to the south. deadly riots in egypt. and, of course, extremist attacks in benghazi that killed the u.s. ambassador. all those things are very real concerns. but if you only look at what's on the news, you can miss maybe what's a bigger picture. another morning in tripoli, and life goes on. vendors are out. people go about their daily routines.

>> akram: this is our traditional breakfast. >> anthony: what is this dish called? >> akram: --which is an overstretched donut, i suppose. >> anthony: right, with an egg. >> akram: with an egg on top. >> anthony: what's the little pancake they put on top? that just to hold the egg in? >> akram: yeah, just to hold the egg in. it's, uh, it's like a hat for it, or a cover or something. >> anthony: a crepe. yeah. right. >> akram: you can get them with cheese. you can get them with chili paste. you can have them with honey, with sugar. >> anthony: what do you, how do you like yours? >> akram: uh, i like mine cooked, to be honest. >> anthony: what's the name of this neighborhood? >> akram: uh, this is fashloom. this is the cradle of the, uh, revolution. >> anthony: right. now, this was the first neighborhood to rise up. >> akram: yes. this is the first place to rise up. >> anthony: why do you think this neighborhood and not -- >> akram: it's an impoverished neighborhood.

it's been always lied to by the regime. they, uh, made them feel like they are not from this country, to be honest. >> anthony: uh-huh. >> akram: we start with bismillah. >> anthony: bismillah. >> akram: and we go for it. >> anthony: oh, yeah, dip it right in the egg? >> akram: and dip it in the egg. >> anthony: delicious. so, where were you when it all started? >> akram: i was in london. well, actually, manchester at the time. >> anthony: right. >> akram: and by the 27th, i was in libya. >> anthony: we went out to, uh, see his house yesterday. >> akram: uh-huh. >> anthony: the compound. >> akram: i was one of the guys who entered from the southern gates. or no, northern gates. >> anthony: akram is in the security business, a thriving industry here, as you could probably imagine. a lot of things happened in a lot of different parts of the country. >> akram: yeah. >> anthony: sort of simultaneously. kind of amazing that all of these people came together very fast. >> akram: how did it happen? >> anthony: yeah. >> akram: easy. twitter. >> anthony: twitter? >> akram: yeah. >> anthony: it was really like that? >> akram: yes. we sent so much information to nato via twitter. we'd get a phone call from tripoli or benghazi or whatever. we get the coordinates via google earth. >> anthony: right. >> akram: we verify that that is the location there that needs to be hit. send to it to nato at @nato, and then it's gone. >> anthony: really? >> akram: yeah. >> anthony: how does that feel, knowing you can call in a tomahawk missile over there? >> akram: it's out of the movies.

>> anthony: did anyone think it was possible that in their lifetime they were going to see the end of this son of a bitch? most people are telling me they never dreamed. >> akram: i don't know if you can call them dreams, hopes, wishes. it was just something in the sky. something i look at every night. >> anthony: right. >> akram: but when i hit that point and got into misrata and stood on gaddafi's body, any dream will come true. >> anthony: what's the situation now? >> akram: uh, it's fluid. it can swing any direction. >> anthony: well, look, what happened in benghazi a few months ago, i mean, what does this mean to the country? >> akram: i think there is a dark, mysterious hand who doesn't like this country to prosper. they see system and organization as a big enemy to them. these dark hands are slowly getting diminished. >> anthony: how -- >> akram: it's a matter of time before we can get rid of them. >> anthony: how hard do you think that's going to be? >> akram: not hard at all. we got rid of gaddafi.

nothing else is hard. >> anthony: i like your attitude. the fluid situation in libya has been intensifying since our arrival, and we've had to change our behavior, constantly moving. shouldn't i be wearing, you know, one of those cool, like, journalist safari jackets at this point? so it seemed a good time, or maybe not -- let's saddle up. to go to misrata. >> man: just watch this. don't let your feet get on it. >> anthony: yeah. >> man: okay, guys, we can go. >> man: roger that. >> anthony: since the revolution, misrata's been the most secure city in libya. but over the last two weeks, in a hail of bullets and hand-thrown grenade attacks, an imam, security forces, and a police officer have all been killed. >> man on speaker: once we move forward, you can come past me. >> anthony: all along the narrow, congested highway there are checkpoints, manned mostly by local militias. and i want to stress, most of them are friendly enough. we are, however, in a hurry to

get to misrata before dark. traveling at night around here is not advised. >> man 1: i would drop the camera pretty soon. >> man 2: yeah, yeah. >> man 1: stop the camera. stop that. >> man 2: oh. >> anthony: pulling into town after dark, it doesn't feel like a happy place to be right now. misrata was where some of the fiercest and most heroic struggles of the war occurred. resistance was the most determined, and the response by the gaddafi forces, especially merciless. we've just learned that earlier in the day a city councilman who was a hero of the revolution was assassinated. and it's not clear who's responsible.

misrata is on full lockdown. >> man: another checkpoint. >> anthony: looking around at the price this city paid for freedom, you can see why they don't want to lose what they fought so hard for. i have asthma... ...one of many pieces in my life. so when my asthma symptoms kept coming back on my long-term control medicine. i talked to my doctor and found a a missing piece in my asthma treatment with breo. once-daily breo prevents asthma symptoms.

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>> anthony: morning in misrata. >> man: how's the vibe? >> man: it's all quite quiet and, and cool at the moment. >> anthony: daylight reveals the extent of the fighting that took place here, not so long ago. >> hamid: this here used to be a vegetable market. clothes. one of gaddafi's soldier's clothes. >> anthony: he left them here and ran. >> hamid: yeah. was that, uh, what they did in tripoli? >> anthony: yeah. >> hamid: we went into the city, they just removed their clothes and ran away in the streets, so nobody would know who, who are they. >> anthony: this is hamid, one of the guys we called the misrata boys, basically militia members from the area who looked out for us here and in tripoli when things started to get hinky in neighboring algeria and in benghazi.

>> anthony: that is a seriously -- up tank. >> hamid: yeah. >> anthony: his job these days is hunting down former gaddafi supporters. so the gaddafi forces rolled in. they would use these tanks to fire on -- >> hamid: around the city. >> anthony: around. >> hamid: yeah. it was full of, uh, tanks here. this was the operation room here. >> anthony: now, if you had any doubt about the terrible odds these young revolutionaries were facing during the early days of the fighting, especially in the months before nato came in with air support, check out misrata's war museum. what did this fire? >> hamid: it fire, uh, rocket. >> anthony: rocket? >> hamid: homemade. and there's a rocket here. we put it here. and fire with, uh -- >> anthony: little rocket. >> hamid: yeah. >> anthony: you had to have some serious courage to, to ride

around with this thing. >> hamid: why? we trust our people. there's a lot of homemade things here. this is homemade, too. it fires a big rocket. this is grenade, homemade, this one. this was from a helicopter. >> anthony: yes. >> hamid: we got it and we put it in the cars. >> anthony: you took it off a helicopter. >> hamid: yeah. >> anthony: and you put it on a car. >> anthony: uh-huh. and do you know what this is for? you know molotov? and we fire -- >> anthony: so it's basically a crossbow that fires molotov cocktails. >> hamid: yeah, molotov and, uh, tnt sometimes. >> anthony: you're shooting this at people who have, uh, mortars. >> hamid: and tanks. >> anthony: uh, uh, tanks. >> hamid: tanks, yeah. >> anthony: you're shooting this at tanks? >> hamid: yeah. because that's what we got at the time. >> anthony: it's what you had, man. >> hamid: yeah. >> anthony: it's, it's awesome. >> hamid: the next president of libya, the one who's going to be in charge? >> anthony: right. >> hamid: this is his chair. he, uhhas to think twice before he sits on it. >> anthony: so never screw your people. >> hamid: yeah, never screw your people. >> anthony: yeah, i'd, i'd remember. >> hamid: and here, these are gaddafi's stuff.

>> anthony: now this was all taken from the compound. >> hamid: some of them from sirte. it's mixed. that's his ak. his chair. >> anthony: preferred hair products? >> hamid: his shaving kit. see, he was wearing a mask. >> anthony: oh, his beauty mask. >> hamid: yeah. >> anthony: i could use some of that. >> hamid: it's gaddafi. he's, he's beautiful, you know? and this is the first martyr in misrata. >> anthony: that's the first? >> hamid: yeah, that's the first one. >> anthony: who was he? not a soldier? >> hamid: he was like a businessman. no, no, no, he was just a normal guy. they went out to protest, the first rally, and somebody come in and shoot him. so, uh, the next day, the whole city came out. that's when everything started. >> anthony: these are photos of those killed during the uprising, combatants and bystanders alike. >> hamid: her name is -- she was six years when she died. >> anthony: shelled in their homes. tortured to death in prisons. shot by snipers. >> hamid: look at this little kid. he died with the victory sign. they killed him, like, uh, with a grenade.

that's his lucky day. >> anthony: yeah. >> hamid: know what he was saying? he was saying, uh, what's going on, guys? why are you -- why, why my, my sons? why, why, why are you doing that? i still have the t-shirt. >> anthony: yeah. >> hamid: yeah. with the blood in it. >> anthony: do you know any of these people? >> hamid: yeah. i know a couple of them. i knew a couple. this, this guy is egyptian. >> anthony: these were your friends? not even his fight, but he came. >> hamid: no. but he didn't want to leave. all of them, they died in sirte. and this died in tripoli. these are brothers.

this is, uh, one, two, three, four. they died on the same day and the same house. and the mother, when we found her, she was holding the kid. they were both dead, like, and holding each other. it was, like, very sad moment. i am totally blind. i lost my sight in afghanistan. if you're totally blind, you may also be struggling with non-24. calling 844-844-2424. or visit my24info.com.

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i don't know if you noticed, i'm going full blitzer on this shoot. the mediterranean sea defines libya's northern border. in shacks built along the coast, people get together on weekends to do what people do everywhere in the world in one form or another since the beginnings of society. like barbecue? who does not like barbecue? there he is. they sure like them here. chase down an animal.

kill it. cycle of life. cut it into pieces. and throw it on a flame. >> so, all of these people are freedom fighters, ex-freedom fighters. >> right. >> so, now just chilling, having fun, making barbecue. >> to start, they grill a lamb in small pieces with a few veggies. >> not a beer, but something like it. >> i've been a week without alcohol of any kind, and i'm enjoying my new, clean-living lifestyle. that's hospitality. i've said it before, i'll say it again, barbecue may not be the road to world peace, but it's a start. >> people in misrata, good. >> yeah.

>> relax. >> laid back. in american, laid back. >> laid back. >> a stew made of kidneys, liver and heart served family style. feel free to eat with hands. right hand only, please. >> good food. >> and a really traditional thing left over from the italians, basically, pasta with ragu. what's this dish called? >> abuke. >> abuke. >> because the sound, bok, bok, bok, means it's ready. >> it's good. so the italians left you one good thing. a few nice buildings and pasta. >> and pasta, yeah. >> so the story of misrata, the story of libya, seems to be ordinary people suddenly called upon to do extraordinary things. where were you when war broke out? >> i was in canada, montreal. >> studying medicine. >> yes. >> dr. jihan put her medical studies on hold to help tend all

manner of horrible war injuries. what kind of procedures were you doing on a regular basis? >> oh, everything, everything, without prior practice and knowledge. so, you just, like, kind of in the situation try to pick up things. >> how many patients did you treat a day? >> 60, 70. >> 60 or 70? >> it was a lot. like, the whole hospital was full. >> when you heard he had been killed, what did you feel, relief? >> i felt relieved. i was, like, realizing that, okay, it's over. i'm trying to heal my own wounds, because in the middle of it, you just go, go, go, and you never realize how much injuries and trauma you get inside yourself. >> right. >> because we probably never think, like, we're going to survive and have a free libya or anything, because it is just going with the state of mind that i'm going to do my best and i'm already at peace with myself if i die. then you find yourself here now, and it is like, now, it is the gray area. >> jihan risked her life along with the men, but traditional

and high-bound rules of conduct do not allow her to sit with them during dinner. she's relegated to what might be called the kids' table. what can one say? we who like to think of ourselves as more enlightened in this area? i don't know. rightly or wrongly, i said nothing. what does freedom mean? i don't know that either, i guess. for sure, it does mean the freedom to enjoy an afternoon no one thought possible only a little while ago. the freedom at least to joke, to laugh, to be for a while relatively carefree. >> misrata, libya.

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the road to tripoli, a healthy breakfast. ooh, liver sandwich. when they talked about a high-risk environment, i think they were talking about this. it's good! halfway back to tripoli, the magnificent ruins of leptis magna. arguably one of the most intact remains of a roman city in the world. it's worth noting that at one time the emperor of all rome was himself libyan. that's pretty amazing. born right here.

someone chipped off all their dicks, not that i was looking. anywhere else in the world, this place would be overrun with tourists. but look, no one. you're free to wander as you wish. quite a backdrop, you know? you're seeing a little dinner theater production of "our town" a couple of thousand years ago. not bad. the only other visitors today are a troop of libyan boy scouts. bizarrely enough, gadhafi himself was once a scout and this was one of the only organizations allowed to remain independent of the government. maybe i should go down there and introduce myself to my former comrades, exchange some boy scout lore.

yes, yes, i was once a boy scout, too. hello. drilled into their heads is something that was long ago drilled into mine. i promise to be trustworthy, loyal, helpful, friendly, courteous, kind, obedient, cheerful, thrifty, brave, clean and reverent. [ speaking foreign language ] ♪

>> you know, it's been a really difficult shoot for a whole lot of reasons. it's not easy to shoot here. but in spite of all of that, for me, this was a happy show. it's libya. they were supposed to be the bad guys, a bad country filled with bad people, right? i don't think so. i met a lot of really nice people here. nobody is saying we're going to be perfect tomorrow. everybody seems to be saying, you know, in five -- see us -- look at us in five years. today that's a pretty reasonable attitude. >> new libya! >> this is a place that's filled with a lot of extraordinary people who have done an extraordinary thing on very short notice under very

difficult circumstances and at a very difficult time, who are continuing to do the best they can. can. and i wish them well. -- captions by vitac -- www.vitac.com ♪