is there hope for me? >> well -- >> oh, boy, that doesn't sound promising. /s ♪ ♪ [ bird chirping ] ♪ ♪

[ horn honking ] ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪

>> do you smell that? motor bike exhaust, fish sauce, incense. the far away smell of something -- is that pork grilling over charcoal? vietnam, it could be no place else. ♪ listen to me, listen to me. there is no other way to see this city, hanoi, than from a

motor bike or a scooter. to do otherwise would be to miss it all. it is one of the great pleasures of my life to join the river of people rushing through the streets.

vietnam, it grabs you and doesn't let you go. once you love it, you love it forever. i've been coming here since 2000. the first time i had been in this part of the world, and it's held a special place in my heart and my imagination since. i keep coming back. i have to. [ bell ringing ] >> vietnam has changed since the last time i was here. it's changing every day. but some things, for now anyway, remain the same. important things, like this stuff. that's going to be good. first meal in hanoi, and it's

something they do here better than anywhere else. i am officially in hanoi now. magic, the spicy wonderful broth with tomatoes and herb and nodles and fresh snails. plump and delicious. look at those beauties. come to me, plump little love muscle. hanoi, capital city of vietnam. 7 1/2 million people live here. in the winter it's chilly and damp. in the summer, hot, humid, subtropical. the boulevards and many of the buildings are french. but its heart and soul is always, always vietnamese. americans coming here as tourists for the first time, especially veterans of the war, are shocked by how friendly the

place is. people are genuinely happy to see you. this is hanoi's old quarter, but it's looking less and less old these days. it's changed. irish/czech theme pub next door. vietnam is a young country. almost half the vietnamese are under the age of 30. fewer every year even remember what they call here the american war. those years were defining time for just about everyone, vietnamese or american, who lived through them. and though there are still a lot of conflicted feelings back home, for most vietnamese these days, the war has become an abstraction, not even a memory. vietnam is still a poor nation, but the standard of living has improved a lot with the relaxing of hard line commune it economic policies. more and more foreign tourists

every year, western chains inevitably, are everywhere. and president obama is visiting for the first time, taking another step on the long path toward normalizing relations between the two countries. >> life is good, ooh, hot. i hit that chili hard. ♪ ♪ >> such a pleasure. >> we have beer ready to go. >> yes. we are doing by bottle or are we going to pour it in a glass? >> how would you do it if i wasn't here? >> would pour it in a glass.

in vietnam, particularly in the for a woman to drink straight te from the bottle. >> oh, really? >> okay, i'm glad i know this now. she is an eisenhower and fullbright scholar. she has developed her career to strengthen the bonds between vietnam and the u.s. today we drove through the out skirts of hanoi. cranes, tall buildings, people moving from the country to the city. prada, this is a young country. >> very much a young nation. they like to eat fried chicken. they like to spend a lot of their time on internet. the history of our country is a history of war. we had a thousand years, the chinese. 80 years under the french. and the japanese came in, and when the americans left finally in 1975, we got involved with cambodia. so, we only have peace since

1989. just in a matter of a few decades, the entire population will be those without any war experience, and that is a great thing. >> what are we eating today? >> well, we are going to have -- >> and that means? >> rice roll, very thin. >> like a crepe? >> yes, and inside ground minced pork and mushroom. >> ah. >> you dip it in, and then you wrap. >> oh, that's very good. everything we do internationally, someone refers back to the vietnam experience, you know. let's not do that again. >> let's not repeat vietnam. >> but i find it interesting that the people who had perhaps the most painful experience were among the first to reach out. i think the john mccain story is particularly interesting because

here's a guy who had an atrocious experience here in prison, and yet he has been among the most vocal supporters of normalizing relations. >> it took several trips to vietnam until he could see vietnam in a different light. it is no longer a war. it's a country with people. >> have you been out with returning veterans from -- >> oh, yes, all the time. >> they often want to go to the area that they served? >> oh, yes. >> they often even meet with the people they fought? >> yes. >> b-52 pilots come to the areas they unloaded their bombs. >> yes. >> what is that experience like? what do you see when they come to you? >> extremely emotional. streakily emotional. people burst into tears. the memory i kept of you 45 years ago was an enemy.

i did anything and everything to protect my life and to protect the people in my platoon. but today when i see you again, not as an enemy, as a person, everything jus disappear, a the b feeling disappear. now, oh, are you married? how many children do you have? what are you up to? life turn into a new chapter. and this chapter is a good chapter. ready, go! hi, juice universe? one large rutabaga, with eggplant... done! that's not fair. glad i had a v8. the original way to fuel your day. [heroine] happy to be here. [ceo] so when you take the job, all these benefits are yours. the world's 2nd most decorated sushi chef...

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a wildly free market economy in a system that's decidedly not. ♪ ♪ >> when i first came here, it was tai chi at dawn, and that's still here. but there is also this. good to see you. >> it's nice to see you, too. she is my zumba instructor. >> no zumba for me. breakfast, though, sounds good. how often a week do you think the average person cooks and how often do they eat out? >> they cook at home for dinner.

that's the only meal in the day everybody can be together. as for other meals probably eat out. ♪ >> i meet my old friend on the edge of the old quarter, a place known as cussing noodles. the name comes from the owner, this lady, known for the free and frank way she communicates with her customers. i hear she yells at people. >> yes. >> if you go to her and order something and if you decide like, oh, can i have this? oh, no, no, no, maybe i have this instead. she's like, i don't have lots of time for you so get out here.

>> really? >> yeah. >> what's the specialty of the house here? >> it means pig knuckles. >> you put up with the abuse for this glorious bowl of noodles with rice and pigs knuckle and snout, and it's good. >> to prefer this, you have to be very careful because if you don't do it right, you get itchy mouth. not toxic. you won't die. it makes your mouth really itchy. >> interesting. wow, that's delicious. >> when people talk about hanoi, spring rolls, i think this

should be in the mix. >> i'm easy. give me some spicy noodles, some pork, i'm happy every time. ♪ [ horns honking ] ♪ ♪ >> it's a maze of narrow streets and alley ways behind the old french cathedral.

vendors set up stools and it's happy hour in hanoi. every doorway, every window, a little slice of life. a story all its own, lives lived, being lived, caught for a second, a moment, then gone. >> to be truly friends, to be friendly, we have to drink. >> well, okay. we must, we must.

[ laughter ] >> cheers for friendship. >> linden, my oldest friend in vietnam from the very beginning. many happy memories, my friend. we've been to saigon. he was my original minder from vietnam ministry foreign affairs. we became part of his official responsibilities, fast friends. >> 1, 2, 3. welcome back. welcome back. >> thank you. he has brought me to a great and proud and uniquely hanoi tradition. bia hai. they consume keg dispensed freshly brewed draft beer. that's good. >> not so much, my friend. >> we need to drink a lot. >> giovano beer. ♪ >> it was something luxurious 30 years ago. >> right. >> now it's for everyone.

it's not expensive. >> so, that's -- >> 40, 45 cents for beer. >> yeah. >> i'll have another. i can afford that. the country has changed so much. when i first came, bicycles and motor bikes. now a lot of cars. look, money. people are making -- business is good. >> yeah. >> i mean much, much more tourism every year. >> yes. people also enjoy life more.

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♪ >> search the globe and you will find no other place that looks remotely like this. how long means where the dragon descends into the sea. legend says this is where a great dragon charged protecting vietnam from invadeers. more is a constant theme in vietnamese mythology and

history. the chinese, the french, the japanese, the americans, the cambodians. again, the chinese. the bay has become for better or worst one of vietnam's most visited destinations. fortunately this time of year, anyway, you don't have to go too far to lose yourself in the past. find a quiet place where you can still imagine the great dragon's tail thrashing and churning and kicking up these great carsks of rock.

chosen mode of transportation, the old french era steamer. refitted for more current-day needs. a big freaking boat. and it's all mine. along with friends and crew, of course. ♪

♪ >> i like this boat. we're living a little larger than last. last time the boat was not this nice. all the modern conveniences, but the charms of the past. it fits perfectly with my over-romantic delusions and in general, it does not suck. hello, gentlemen. how are you doing? >> we're having some gin and tonic. >> traditional vietnamese drink. wait a minute, you were five years old last time i was in the bay. >> he turned 18 now. >> wow. >> lin and i came here for another show, what feels like a lifetime ago.

back then i got to meet his son min who has apparently grown up. >> pictures of you and him. >> whoa. >> 15 years ago, 14 years ago. >> oh, my god. look at my hair. it's changed a little bit. over 8 million people are coming to the bay now. >> every year, tourists. >> all of this is protected, right? you can't do anything on these rocks? >> no, no, no. >> how many islands, 1900 of these rocks out there? >> 1,969. and this is a good number, you know. >> a lucky number? >> 6 is for fortune, and 9 is for forever. so, fortune forever. >> a drink or two on the top deck, check. now for the rest of the day, try to do as little as possible. a nap. sunset. maybe some more drinks. >> for you.out dinner?

>> thank you. cheers. so, we're eating some squid. >> tongue of squid. >> tongues of squid. >> we tried to get as many tongues as possible. >> do you know the majesty of the squid? at night this time of year, the bright lights of the bay fishing boats are unmistakable. >> i can't believe the evening. attract the squid so they can catch them. >> they say because of global warming all the fish are dying, but that the squid and cuddle fish populations are decreasing. soon the whole sea will be filled with plenty of squid. we'll be eating it every day. oh, yeah, those are cute little squid. those are going to be tender.

oh, yeah, tentacles are the best. >> they work all night. the light is turned on all night. >> they didn't sleep all day? >> yeah. >> it's got to be hot out there all day. >> cheers for the day. >> cheers. ♪ "the birds and the bees" by dean martin ♪ let me tell you 'bout... ♪ ♪ the birds the bees and the flowers and the trees ♪ ♪ and the moon up above and a thing called love. ♪ ♪ let me tell you 'bout the stars in the sk♪,

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♪ >> a morning swim. a bowl of spicy noodles. and a view. perfect.

♪ >> how many in the family? >> six. a young couple and their three kids and the grandmother lives with them. she was with relatives to go to school because they had no schooling here. >> right. floating fishing villages like this used to be found in nearly every sheltered cove or corner of the bay. as vietnam becomes aore popular tourist destination, authentic fishing villages are starting to disappear. the government has been relocating fishing families inland, hoping to minimize their ecological impact. >> the people living on floating ship they are willing to open their home. >> they're basically farm oysters. >> yes. >> a lot of pearls for sale on the bay and vietnam. they come from places like this.

it takes over a year to grow each pearl, and there's no guarantee an oyster will even yield one. >> that's the most common vegetable in the summertime. >> what kind of fish are these? houlong fish. delicious, good fish. this is a pretty prime piece of real estate. you've lived here how long? >> for many generations. she is 78 years old. her grandparents lived here. this become a big tourist attraction. >> is their situation protected by the state?

are they allowed to live here because they've been here so long? >> the government is encouraging them to move back to shau because it's nice for the children's education. >> she said they're happy to move because it's better for the children. they've been living here many years. all they know is fishing. >> right. ♪

>> just another day in paradise. a tropical downpour in a working class neighborhood on the outskirts of hanoi. the lady selling vegetables and gum and cigarettes taking a nap under a piece of corrugated tin has no idea what's about to happen. >> one, two, get down. ♪ ♪

[cheering and applauding] >> good to see you. >> mr. president, how do you like it in vietnam? >> love it. markets like these i grew up with when i was a kid in jakarta. this is the only markets available. you would buy pretty much everything in stalls like this. i wouldn't mind going in there and haggling and seeing what i can find. [ laughter ] >> this country, when i first arrived here, it smelled like a place that i would like. certain countries just smell good and i know they're going to be good. you kind of smell that? >> there are certain spices that you can smell in certain countries that you just don't smell back home. there are some smells that aren't as appealing as well. but that's part of the mix. yeah. ♪ >> how are you doing, guys? how are you?

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>> there is something magical about the smell. the minute you touchdown here, it grabs you and captivates you and chances are it holds you forever. i'm not the first to feel this way. there is no better place to entertain the leader of the free world, in my opinion, than one of these classic funky family-run noodle shops you find all over hanoi. dinner and a beer costs about $6. i'm guessing the president doesn't get a lot of state dinners like this. how often do you get to sneak out for a beer? >> very rarely.

first of all, i don't get to sneak out period. but once in a while i'll take michelle out on a date night. the problem is part of enjoying a restaurant is sitting with other patrons and enjoying the atmosphere, and too often we end up getting shunted into one of those private rooms. >> i'm glad i can help. >> absolutely. >> all right. you're going to have to -- >> i will walk you through. >> you're going to have to walk me through this. >> we're going to eat bun chaw. it is about as typical a hanoi dish as there is. pork patties with pork belly. bun chao is served with a broth of vinegar, sugar, and vietnamese fermented fish sauce.

>> chilies to taste? >> if you have an important state function after, you might not -- >> i'll go on with this thing. we're going to do what's appropriate vinegar. >> and the noodles, drop them in your bowl. >> not too elegant, but i'll manage. >> dip and stir. get ready for the awesomeness. >> i'm ready. now, is it appropriate to pop one of these whole suckers in your mouth or do you think you should be a little more -- >> slurping is totally acceptable in this part of the world. it takes some skills, by the way handle these sticky cold noodles. whatever your opinion of the man, the president has those skills. >> i've got to say, this is killer. this is outstanding. it's really good. >> and we share apparently a sentimentality about asian street food and southeast asia in general. >> one of my favorite meals of all time, there is an area between jakarta and bondo,

another city in indonesia, it's up through the mountains. you'd have these road side restaurants overlooking the tea fields. there would be a river running through the restaurant itself and there would be these fish, these carp that would be running through. you pick the fish, they grab it for you, fry it up, and the skin would be real crispy. and they serve it with a bed of rice. it was the simplest meal possible and nothing tasted so good. >> a trickier question, ketchup on a hot dog ever acceptable? >> no. no, i mean that. that's one of those things like, well, let me put it this way. it's not acceptable past the age of 8. >> my daughter is 8 and she put ketchup on eggs the other day. i didn't know what to do. what good parenting called for at this point. >> an intervention. >> i think you have to say, you know what, that's not acceptable. i'm sorry.

♪ ♪ >> we're at a point where we seem to be turning inwards. i mean, we're actually talking about building a wall around our country. and yet you have been reaching out to people who don't necessarily agree americans had passports. the extent to which you can see how other people live seems useful, at worst, and incredibly pleasurable and interesting at best. >> president obama: it confirms the basic truth that people everywhere are pretty much the same. the same hopes and dreams. and when you come to a place like vietnam and you see former american vietnam vets coming

and you don't make peace with your friends. you make peace with your enemies. ♪ >> anthony: as a father of a young girl, is it all gonna be okay? it's all gonna work out? my daughter will be able to come here. in five years, ten years, she'll be able to have a bowl of bun cha and the world will be a better place? >> president obama: uh, yeah. i mean, i think progress is not a straight line. you know? there are gonna be moments at any given part of the world where things are terrible. but having said all that, i think things are gonna work out. >> anthony: thank you so much. >> president obama: cheers. >> anthony: cheers. latest data say?y, so wr our customer is a 21-year-old female. heavily into basketball. wait. data just changed... now she's into disc sports. ah, no she's not. since when? since now. she's into tai chi. she found disc sports too stressful. hold on. let me ask you this... what's she gonna like six months from now?

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♪ [ singing in vietnamese ] >> anthony: the vast majority of this country don't remember the american war.

they don't remember any war. >> ha: no. >> anthony: you used to be a tour guide. >> ha: yes. >> anthony: for how many years? >> ha: 15 years. >> anthony: 15 years. i know you have to bring people over to the museum, the american war museum, what, every time, right? >> ha: yep. >> anthony: in your lifetime, is there going to ba time when that nonnaave to be a stop? it won't be necessary. it won't even be important. no one will remember it. or should people always remember? >> ha: i think it's good to remember so we don't make the same mistake, you know? some people choose to be angry, to hold a grudge, but then some people choose to let go and, for the peace inside themselves.

that's up to the person. and, i think it's good that, that -- it's important that we know about history. and to make sure it never happens again. ♪ i met a lot of war veterans. and, surprisingly, a lot of them don't feel -- don't have any hate, anger against their old enemies. and that's amazing.

that is amazing. i learned so much from them. ♪ [ music stops ] ♪ >> ha: for vietnamese, we have so many legends. but the majority of legends related to our traditions of fighting against foreign invaders and to protect our country. over the last 20 years of my life, i've seen a lot of changes. and we know that there's still a lot of shortcoming. [ bells ringing ] but everything needs time. we need to be patient. we can't rush because we really don't want another war. >> anthony: general william westmoreland, who commanded u.s. forces here in the mid-'60s, famously said, "the oriental doesn't put the same high price on life as does a westerner. life is plentiful. life is cheap in the orient."

it was an extraordinary grotesque and wrongheaded observation from a guy who, if nothing else, was expected to understand his enemy on the battlefield. he could not, it turned out, do even that. maybe, i hope, we are a little bit smarter now. ♪

[ horns honking ] ♪ [ horns honking ] ♪ [ horns honking ] >> nainoa: my great fear as a kid was a fear of failing. and that's hawaiian because i was born that way because that's the expectation. you're hawaiian, you're gonna be less. you're hawaiian you're gonna fail more. and so, it's old, it's in you, it's part of your identity. but, when i navigate a voyage. i know when the storm comes it's gonna take you to the bone.