three men murdered, four tragic endings. >> we go up this beautiful mountain. this incredible town dp it goes back to the 12th century. people trudge up the hill to the beautiful church. to take the walk that michael corleone took now and forever more it will be sort of the god father theme park where they're playing the god father theme over and over. >> i think most thoughtful cecil

yans are disgusted by this. >> imagine that weigh up every day. as one bus as after another filled with japanese tourists go u there oh look michael corleone got there it's so fantastic. ♪ the ♪

>> it's one of the most beautiful places in europe. a place whose roots are very much the roots of the town where i live. but somehow i've never been able to get it right. to tell the story, any story of cicely. it's the biggest island in the mediterranean. two main towns of paler missouri and. i've done a show in paler missouri before epic goat rodeo a failure of humiliating scale this time i wouldet it right. there is the cicely we know from films ee voktive deeply felt history not quite reality but cool anyway. there is the simple fact of the location. tucked away under the booted of italy particle of but really part of that country. its own language, culture, its own history of norman abarab,

spanish, roman, turkish, egyptian interloepers all leaving their mark and influence. i grew up in new jersey which was pretty much cicely on the hudson. the italian americans next door weren't from millin. i can tell you that much. i guess what i'm telling you is i figured in will be easy. this area a certified hotel restaurant and working form producing olive oil. >> how many acres of property do you have. >> about 40 acres one of the oldest organic farms. >> this is the proprietier. so that's where potatoes come from. >> how hard can it be to make an awesome show? cicely? eat the nice food, drink the

wine, in an idyllic villa in the countryside outside catana? how lou impact can it get? so the plan was we go fishing. we get some fresh octopus maybe cuddle fish explore the bounty all while working on tans. with the local chef fisherman, man of the sea. he is experienced. he knows where to get it good. >> you like the ocean. >> i love it how do you say in italian. >> one of my favorite things to eat. >> this is touring, my host. >> what else is out there octopus. >> octopus. cuddle fish. >> oh yes. >> and i like sapia. i want to find some other also clams. here the water is still cold.

i think they will be full. >> i'm thinking, really are these prime fishing waters? i don't know about this. but all the boat traffic and people so close to the walks, i can't see much of anything living down there. >> okay. >> we anchor here but "i" famous for opt minimums i dutyfully suited up for what was advertised as a three-hour cruise. so i get in the water i'm pad willing around. and splash. suddenly there's a dead sea creature you are sinking slo to thinking can this be happening mp flash another rigger mort iced half frozen octopus but it goes on one dead cuddle fish

deceased octopus frozen sea urchen after another splash, splash, splash. each specimen drops among the rocks or to be heroically discovered moments later like i'm not actually watching as this confedright in the next boat over hurls them in the water one after another. i'm no marine biologiesist but i know a dead one we i see it pretty sure they don't drop from the sky and sink to the bottom. >> i try to get some -- also some smaller. >> strangely everyone else pretends to believe the hiddious sham unfolding before our eyes doing the best to ignore the blindingly obvious. then they give up and dumped a

whole bag of dead fish into the sea. >> at this point i begin desperately looking for signs of life, hoping one of them would stir, become revived. i'm frantically swimming around the bottom look at dead things looking for something live i can hold up to the camera. but no, my shame will be absolute. for some reason i feel something snap and i slide quickly in the spiral of near here stair kal desperation many is this what it it's come to as a dead squid narrowly misses and i'm back in the same country. seeding the ocean with supermarket sea food complicit in a shameful incident of

fakery. . liftlessly in the water, dead sea life sinking to the bottom all around me. you got to be pretty many immune to the world to not see some kind of obvious met a fore. i've never a nervous breakdown down before but something fell apart down there and it took a long time after that damn episode to recover.

>> no need to boil. it will be ready without it. >> raw clams aba lone and a heart warming beach scene surrounded by a gaggle of hungry kids it was at this point the only way for toury to redeem himself. you'll notice i'm not there. i'm sitting in a nearby cafe pounding one drink after another

in a smoldering miserable rage. our evening meal will be at toury's place up the hill in the town. but by the time dinner rolls around i'm ripped to the -- did i mention it's my birthday. i've had three hours of bobbing around on a pitching both tu hur hours manning outside on the sidewalk i'm gone baby gone. i don't remember any of this. yes he of it. >> how is your day today. >> good nice boat trip, a little swim. >> i would be told later a gentleman thomas o joined me for dinner someone on the crew mentioned his wife was present and she didn't say much presumably tfs this was not her preferred way to spend her birthday. >> hi tony this is my bief i like to old. >> that's the original. >> yes original.

>> you won't find this anyplace else. >> apparently the white olives harvested from some secret tree only tour dwr know base maybe it's next for the secret fishing hole there was great wine apparently and apparently i drieng drank quite a lot of it. it was bread and olive only. absloen lone served raw in the shell. baby sahr dean. also served raw with a splash of citrus and salt. >> this is the baby sahr dean totally without no match inients to tease better the fish. >> thank you. if you ask a sisle yan say where do you come from, the correct answer should be i'm italian. >> right. >> we say i'm cicely. >> is cicely italy. >> should it be? >> i don't know but we have from

britain, norman arab, spanish. we are a mix, a blender. >> look my octopus i remember personally getting that one it was a mighty struggle no actually i don't. >> yeah the octopus beautiful little shrimp. >> another traditional specialty i'm told they call it tuna tar tar. and cuddle fishy recognize you my friend. >> cuddle like this how traditional is this to cicely. >> i think from the part of the sea they almost always eat raw. >> fisherman only communities only or in restaurants or always as long as you've been alive you see cuddle. >> no i see cuddle in the poor plm. >> it's not like this japanese influence but the japanese gave permission to eat traditional

foods their own traditional food what is the great mother sisle yan classic ditches. >> anchoviy. pasta. >> okay. >> i think this is for me. >> with the sahr dean. >> but it's an explosion of flower because this plate it's arab. born in a period when cicely was very poor. >> timothy like. i even remember it. pasta. a true sisle yan classic made with fennel, pine nuts, saffron and anchoviy. cured alongside sardines in oil. >> we have to use the hand to eat the fish. >> i must have slunk back to bed collapse intoed a heap of

self-loathing. i would have normally turned on the poern channel and loaded up on prescription meds but there is no tv here. it's basically made for places like this. honey, what if it was just us out here? right. so, i ordered you a car. thank you. you don't want to be out here at night 'cause of the, uh, coyotes. ok, thanks, bud. bye. be nice to have your car for some shelter. bye. when it really, really matters, you need the best network and the best unlimited. just $45 per line for four lines. what's going on? oh hey! ♪ that's it? yeah. ♪ everybody two seconds! ♪ "dear sebastian, after careful consideration of your application, it is with great pleasure that we offer our congratulations on your acceptance..." through the tuition assistance program,

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i love the films god father 1 and god father 2. but they had nothing to do with any organized crime from reality. they're opera. magnificent opera but basically a morality tail about destroying the things you love and want to protect. actual organized crime members peaking uneducated laez ans sociopaths who have no problem stealing from their own harder working neighbors. here in cicely the interests are less glam rouse than gambling and prostitution.

they are and have have traditionally been a parasit kal organizism bun one that has grown to near equal size as the host. mary is horjly from new york but living here in paler missouri for a half cently she was a writer at one time a reformer foresocial justice which is is a dicey thing to be here. >> you've been here all this time? why? >> well i came for a year. it was going to be a year between clege andduat school. i just finished college. i met a man and there -- there in lie the -- i married a sisle yan. and lived here ever since. >> it's a restaurant like a lot of others around here except for the quality of its food. >> tell me where we are first of all. >> okay the father and mother present owner opened this in

1951 when there was a wonderful photograph there on the wall of the opening day. it started really as a tavern and has become a well-known and much appreciated restaurant now. it's very straightforward sisle yan koog cooking at its best. >> we start with some typical thing the things i love. the kind of simple good things that make me happy. pannelly a fritter. a sweet and sour egg plant ditch. a plate of olives. some white wine produced from a small batch vineyard run by mary and her husband. >> in came in with the arabs maybe even earlier because chickpeas have been around for long time. >> this about as the cab a nato. >> that is and can't oely are

the true internationally known dishes. >> this is what i've been waiting for. is is what i wanted cicely to be sething to sooting my shattered soul. it doesn't make much a bowl of good pasta. in this case thes this famous dish. this pasta in cuddle fish ink. also this other dish. pasta with swordfish, egg plant and tomatoes. >> beautiful. perfect. perfect pasta. very happy with that. >> good. i know you've been looking forward it. i'm glad it's good. >> paler missouri an expensive city for some things because the consumer is paying. >> more. >> more so the store can afford

to pay its extortion money. the big change happened is that up until the mid-80s, the late 80s there was a great many residents who thought if they were honest and didn't have anything to do with the mafia they could live without being affected. apparently 80% of the businesses in paler mo pay extortion that's a lot. >> not everybody pays the bite. a small but growing coalition of businesses have joined a group a crass grass roots roots organization takin a stand against the mafia near total control over the food chain from farm to table. >> i come out of the restaurant business in new york. you got taxed with every laundry order every time they took the trash away built into all the basic services. >> here it's more of a going around, christmas and easter. >> a guy comes buy o.

>> the guy comes by it's fine and simple extortion. >> the guy shows up and you say siem not paying what happens next. >> well apparently now the mafia has zaded that it isn't worthwhile boring with the people who belong to the the group. there are so many others why look for trouble how true it is i don't know to belong to it the group you have a to sign a pledge that you will not pay and if you are approached you will go for the police. they send for you lawyers and to another organization which deals with the people who are actually having trouble. it's incredibly complicated there are no easy answers. >> right. what about big farm? what about -- some of the the things happening on a much more

legitimate level. >> who is more destructive worldwide you make a very good argument. >> i'm updates because i'm sounding as if i'm making apologies for the mafia. it's just what i think has happened having lived 50 years in cicely. i'm more skeptical tha most americans. >> i know what you're saying u're not so sure a mafia free italy would they be that much more functional. >> no absolutely. >> i'm not sure. >> i'm not sure at all. >> but i am constantly amazed by the fact that 45 years ago if i said to american -- i live in cicely. in cicely how did a nice girl like you end up in a place like that? now it's on a farm in cicely how romantic. i envy you. so perception of cicely. >> it has changed. >> has changed. >> in 2007 there were only 160

members of the and i mafia group. now over 800. pretty school considering we're talking about a group with no hesitation in killing judges, politicians police, prosecutors. back to kcatana when you're talking late night dining options the enticing smell of smoke wafting through the streets, a smell that's enticingly equine. i smell rain bow dash. anthony and marko. a couple of locals. >> this is one of the older side famous, for families of mafia,

you know, the gross and crime organization here. nowadays seems to be like a bit more quiet because they are all get arrested so they prefer to sell meat against drugs. >> so right over there you have derek -- you can bet on a horse who people like to bet horse here you eat the one that lose. >> right. >> the looser goes in the fire. it's not a nice thing but i mean sometimes happen for real. >> cycle of life. all right. so why horse? where does in tradition come from. >> from maybe also the egyptians then we've greeks 750 years before christ. then we have romans we have to say that sciceliens are being

bass tarred. there are mm if i say sicily dial lekt ma maybe arab can understand me italian no but italian comes from latden something different we are cicely yans before italians. >> i'll never forget that. >> look the side of the met it's yellow not white when it's yellow means that these horse has been breed eating fresh grass. >> tear and go.

>> yeah. >> you like this? >> it's good. >> a bit sweet, huh. >> you don't need nothing. horse meat. basically a lot better loved by everybody here. >> right. >> we can have eat balls. >> whatever you wish process. i'll try anything. >> it's a mix of different things. >> some bread, parmesan cheese. parsley. eggs. and of course. >> horse. >> horse. it is very tatsy when my daughter asking o asks me for a poniy i'm brink her here pointing at the grill and saying here's your poniy. get everywhere else,'t

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you can actually remember, instantly. add that premium channel, and watch the show everyone's talking about, tonight. and the bill you need to pay? do it in seconds. because we should fit into your life, not the other way around. go to xfinity.com/myaccount sicilian. sicily. park o this is a national park and within that is this free range pig farm. they breed the special big pigs there the blackore. combination of wild sicilian bore and this breed is raising the profile of the pig here.

>> smell of shit everywhere, huh. look look they are here now. the noise of the car. they will arrival. fantastic. >> like any good tasting high quality pig what were they fed how did they live? were they happy? >> i'm a hunter i never seen so many at once. it's like i feel. >> you should be shooting something. >> yup. spectacular, huh. >> a poorly fed pig who lived his life in squalor stress and fear makes for bad pork. this is why we should treat aim nominals well is not just it's nice but makes them more

delicious. >> chest nuts, acorns roots and stuff for ajd from the hills supplemented by nice fattening grain during the winter when wild food is less easy and less plentiful. >> they catch here the animal only with the truck. >> right. >> it's a shame they don't let you shoot. >> i like pigs not to hang out with to eat. i doept have a tattoo of a pig or anything but i like them fine. when given the opportunity to shoot one in the brain or see one shot in the brain so that may i may sup on it that's what's called cheering me up from from some manic depression. bang and this pig is pauley you won't see him no more. even with the brain dead, the heart still goes on beating. sort of like pick a car dash

yan. in the raft case the last few beats are necessary to pump all the red red blood in the bucket the salt keeps it from coago lating prematurely. >> looking good. >> there is a car dash yan joke somewhere. grooming tips from theresa. i got a million of them. let's hope kaehn never has to see this. oh. >> we hang now. then get to work.

>> very fast, huh? >> all the good bits, lungs kidneys get kooktd slowly in fat with garlic, fat, chili pepper is the meet also the liver? >> so it's all of its interior. >> all of the interior with a little bit of fat. >> fat. that's pretty. meanwhile the intestinal casing get filled with blood and gently poached until creamy, bloody delicious. and a nice spread of home made cured meets local cheese and home made wine. let the party begin. >> so what do we have here? let's identify the products.

capacola. >> yeah. >> lardo. . >> that's that looks good. this is the ricottap. just cooked in the oven. >> the bread. >> the bread is from the uncle. and they have also salami opinion sauce ajs. >> and this cheese. >> canostrato? >> what do you call this? beautiful. hmm. that's good. >> the best moment of the day. >> indeed.

oh, yeah. >> what do you think about this? >> it's good. fom the ricotta, really good. >> i think it's a complete country this place. you discover sicily. and then aspect i think very few people know this is incredible. even the bread is from the old lady, she made it. >> you think of sicily. you think of family. you think of food. this is more like it.

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breakthrough allergies with allegra®. we'll stop sheer for the shrimp. catana, the early morning market with, going on for longer than america had a country. it's old, old, italyia. >> do they know you here. you shop here often. >> this is not thomas's first trip to the market by a long shot. his mom is regular. she comes every day.

>> these the next stop you find here everything. their own specialty.kely have fresh ingredients. >> baby lamb. >> baby lamb. sausage, hamburger, the palpeto. . this is about six months old at least. over here. this is the place she buy the spices for her home. and the veggies. this is what the market is best known for, sea food. >> this is one of the biggest reseller we have in the fish market. you can see the variety. >> yeah. >> we consider the tuna like a pig. we don't throw away anything. see this is typical you can find

it all here. >> those are the tiny little clams. >> yes. >> this is another thing. >> westholm welks. you can see the shrimp normally still alive. >> so i see cudd. -- sepia, baby sahr dean. swordfish. . i'm joining thomas for lunch today mom is cooking. we have got to do shopping. they look beautiful. >> yeah. >> the color is beautiful. >> bonjourno. so we'll go have a little cuddle today. the shrimp. >> baby sahr dean. >> grazi.

>> i'll tell you, what do you want to try? blood sausage? >> just blood, no onion, no spice, nothing. a little pepper. >> si. >> you squeeze it. >> no, no, eat it right away. >> hmm. oh, man. >> is the intestine is wrapped. >> that's good. usually i don't like tripe. i like it in a sauce. but that's tasty. s looks like hell, tastes like

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i don't have any grandparents. my mom cooks but the last time she invited for dinner was 1972 given the tragic dysfunctional disfupgle history is it it any had he. i've been known to cruise rural state highways looking for hitchhiking grant yes to cook for me given my fragile emotional state it's makes sense that ietd drag on a tom's mom to making me lurj. that heart warming or creepy and sad. >> it smells good in here. . all right. well, you need any help shopping parsley perfect. . for lunch we got the shrimp and sahr deans earlier at the market but first this. grab one like like ahill oed out

potato filled with cheese abbreaded and fried. >> basically do the finish the fill with all the cheese. >> yes. >> the dip in the to sale the >> my mother cooks for everybody, even if it was midnight. in my house it was my father's friends over my friends. >> right. >> so, when we all have to share all together and have a dinner, my mother is cooking for everybody. because the problem is when she cook, even if she know it's only for five people, she cooking for ten. >> ten, just in case. ♪ more capalaba. this is sicily, after all, and this is the classic starter. also a bread and tomato salad. >> would you like to try something? >> that's old school. >> we use bread that a harder.

we usually do bread that is two days old. >> right. it's really good. really, really good. that's sicily right there. >> right. yes. >> fresh shrimp sauteed in butter, garlic and herbs. i have noticed over time as i traveled around the world that every great and enlightened culture, when confronted with the shrimp or a prawn, right away. >> that's the way you see if it's fresh or not. >> so typical day, when you were 15 years old what did you eat for lunch? >> never missing pasta for lunch. >> pasta and meat? >> yes. >> or pasta and fish? >> and fish. something locally. basically, you have to go right behind the corner to find your products. whatever we could produce in sicily, that's what we choose to >> watchhis. zip the bone right out. out comes all the bone. who needs a kne?

>> sardines fileted neatly, sauteed in garlic and oil. a little red pepper. it's a beautiful thing right there. good. i'll tell you, another two hours here i'll be speaking italian. well i'll be speaking sicilian. [ speaking foreign language ] yes, you have to eat it hot. this is very nice. really, if you don't like this, there's really no hope for you. [ speaking in foreign language ] >> there's something you don't like it? >> everything is fantastic. so happy. >> tell her, because -- >> i'm so happy. this was a delicious meal to eat in this beautiful home with some really good, home-cooked food.

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♪ my last night in sicily. and after this, i'm going back to new york, crawling under my bed and adopting the fetal can i cut some vegetables?eks. i may look normal. okay, i don't exactly, but i'm not barking uncontrollably or running around shrieking with my pants wrapped around my head, which is what my instincts are telling me i should be doing. to me, one of life's great joys is cheese. no, i'm eating cheese, which makes me happy, always. and drinking wine. good wine. and a hell of a lot of it. and i'll just make it over the hump with any luck at all. we have a mozzarella here, a pepperccino. >> si. >> you can start with the one in the middle.

>> i will. ture joins me for a final meal along with antonio, guido and guido's girlfriend, anna. this is an agritourismo. this is not a concept that exists in america, but it is a concept that should exist. okay, now please explain what it is. >> it is a hotel linked to the territory. you have to use local product, local recipe. >> penne, sun-dried tomatoes, zucchini, all from the farm. >> oh, man, that looks good. ♪ >> wow. wow, wow, wow. fantastic. >> whoa! >> some nice rabbit,live oil, also from the farm. more wine. i might just make it.

now, this is called agrodolce? bitter. if you talk about italy, it is the most interesting part of italian cuisine. not just gastronomically but philosophically, because it is a philosophical thing. life is too good. i need a little bitterness to remind myself of the internal tragedy of our existence. >> you're right, the sweet and sour of the life. >> one final attempt before i go to extract something meaningful on what it means to be sicilian. >> what's wrong with these people in the north? >> people from the south are coming from these greek street culture, where the philosopher while in the north came through, you know, and -- >> ooh, that's the harshest, meanest thing anyone can say. >> and figured out the last century, the three best writers in italy are from sicily.

>> because they consider us a way to end their problems, but finally in summers, they all come here to make millions. it's a good thing for us, you know? >> in the end, it all comes back to "the godfather." we go up this beautiful mountain, this incredible town. it goes back to the 12th century. there are few places on earth more beautiful. but we are sitting in one of the -- ♪ da, na, na it was like a "godfather" theme park. look michael corleone got married there. it's so fantastic. >> you know, we just look at people with "the godfather" t-shirt, and i say, oh, my god. why people get stuck on this idol called "the godfather" movie, because there is this sense of family. >> michael had many options. he destroyed his family. and everything he touched. >> in a way it's fair.

>> it's fair? >> indeed, a good movie, sure. >> coppola, he didn't [ muted ] it up? >> no. i didn't even think about it. about death. but shooting at those things, anybody in the camera was shot. immediately. by a russian soldier. at that time, i didn't think about that. but i found that i had to think about it. >> you were alive and holding a camera at a very important time in history. you had to think, i'm doing something important. >> it's very easy to make pictures, but pictures mean something, what's in it. that's a totally different