i'm sure you're as hungry as me after that. i'm ana cabrera. thanks for joining me. have a great night and week ahead. [ foreign language ]

♪ ♪

the basque country san autonomous region, a place, a culture where the basque language is spoken. strictly speaking, it's an area straddling spain and france at the western end of the pyrenees. they've been speaking basque here long before the first roman arrived in 65 b.c. it is a very old language. how old, like the question of how far back their history goes and where it begins, is not known. the best answer anyone can give you is long, long ago. what did this area, what did this coastline look like back in the 17th century? >> so different, right? >> so different.

>> there's moreland sk landscap. the sea wind into the land. >> maybe some houses like three or four there, but those weren't there, the church wasn't there. more church, maybe. in that time, horses were impossible. >> before the revolution, with no heating systems, you couldn't put water into the sea because the wind and rain was hard to maintain that type of living. >> duarte jimenez and his daughter are both used to speaking basque.

they are used to basque cooking. >> so delicious. very, very good. i love these. >> how long do you think the basque people lived in this community? or does anybody know? >> 25 we were living he,000 we . >> so you're talking cro magnon? >> it's the only language that doesn't come from the same place. >> and the basque genetic signature is also seemingly unique? i mean, nobody is finding any relatives anywhere. >> they use people's dna from this area, and the conclusion was it was the same people that was living here 25,000 years

ago. >> so do you believe that the basque have always been here, that the language has been influenced by nobody else? >> anthony, we are in their way. on the peninsula, you have two natural paths. one is on this side and the other is on the atlantic side. we are in their way. >> good negotiators. good fighters, good negotiators. >> you could make the argument that there is no better place to eat in europe than the city of san sebastian.

there are more mishla star restaurants here than anyplace on earth. the love of food, the insistence on the very best ingredients, is fundamental to culture and life here. and it's beautiful. did i say that? it's a beautiful city. [ foreign language ]

>> if i'm lost, i'm only lost for two minutes. i always find my way. juan and marie arzac has been my mentor and friend, steadfast and loyal in a way every person can be. father and daughter are two of the greatest chefs in the world. >> you are happy? >> very. i love it here. ♪ >> these are what you call pinchells around here, not

tapas. batches of delicious, delicious things located near one another so you can go out to what is potentially called a poteo, a bar crawl, grazing at each place. >> i would like to start with beer, what do you think? not too much because we're going to other place. >> gabriella rineli has worked with both arzacs for years and is considered a leading authority on the basque culinary scene. >> the important thing is you have different atmospheres, you have different flavor. people here really like the classics. people go after exactly what they're looking for. >> fried quail egg, blood sausage and peppers. >> this is like a whole breakfast on a piece of bread. want to try some? >> sea urchin with onion and

cava. >> it still difficu's still dif, no? >> yeah. ♪ >> walking anywhere in san sebastian with juan and marie arzac is like walk tling throug chicago with michael jordan. he's the godfather, universally boulevard and respected. >> he's like elvis. >> why are the basque unique among their neighbors obsessi obsessively insist on such high quality ingredients for everything? >> people have a passion for food here. >> i don't know. >> it's always been this way? >> until about 80 years ago, there wasn't a lot of this stuff

written down. >> we're not walking by here. gambara, my favorite place. i come here every time like a heat-seeking missile. >> here's where you'll find juan every sunday. >> this is the first place anyone ever brought me. the ham with mushrooms are amazing. crab tartlets, extraordinary. but this, the house specialty, what they're most famous for is the be all and end all for me. seared whild mushrooms and flagre with an egg yolk draped over the top. it's perfect. there is no improving this dish. >> now nobody talks. only we eat, eh? >> closed mouths.

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>> we are in basque country in a place near san sebastian. this was the main basque port in the middle ages. >> come on! >> the basque ships in different times they were the top of the maritime technology. because of that, they could face the challenge of the big ocean.

this is a very old tradition. you see, we have a real language, we have a very old culture, and that culture has always been looking to the sea. >> according to my basque friends, the basque discovered america and didn't tell anyone. >> that's right. >> who would they tell, anyway? >> they didn't want to tell other fishermen. the maritime history has been written by kings that wanted to claim something. this is mine, i want everybody to know that. fishermen, they did the opposite thing. that's why now the psychologiars are finding evidence of our past, and that's very important to us. >> he works at the basque maritime museum where he works

to promote and preserve the proud history of maritime industry. >> i used to go fishing there. i remember the fishing boats coming in and out every day. wooden boats, fantastic. when i grew older, i witnessed how the traditional wooden boats i loved so much were being replaced by fiberglass boats. so when i was 18, i decide to do become a boat builder. for me it was one of the most enrichg experience enriching experiences of my life. >> we created it 20 years ago

because nobody knew about the basque relationship with the sea. a dream of my life was coming true, which is a 16th century basque whaling galeon. my hope is through this project, the basque people will know more about our maritime history. they will be proud of their ancestors. we decided to build this ship, i mean, nobody asked us. >> this used to be the center of the world for boat building. bad times for the spanish navy was good times for the basque, because if a lot of ships are sinking, that means more work here. >> the basque were the first whalers, industrial whalers. there was a time in which the basque were the only people hunting whales industrially. >> how many guys? >> in a classic role, seven people. >> seven people. a guy out in front. the strongest guy with the harpoon? >> that's right. >> lots of rope?

>> 200 meters of rope. >> if the ropes get wet, you sink. if you fall overboard, you die. if the boat capsizes, you die. >> you have to tow that whale to the land. a 60-ton whale. >> 60 tons. >> metric. big. >> what happens if everything goes well? >> you become very rich. >> this place is the famous el cano, in the seaside village of gatano, a place well known by chefs all over the world in what they call the paleolithic cooking, building a fire to create, well, magic of a kind. rock prawn. the head and body are cooked separately. the body is served nearly raw, what they call semi seviche, while the heads are grilled.

>> oh, that's nice. this is going to be good. >> that's very nice. >> squid served the paleo way. grilled with an onion green pepper sauce. look at this. look at that, he puts the tentacles inside. nice. >> about as bone deep old school fundamentally basque an ingredient or passion as there is. the jowls are chins of hake, emulsifying with the oil in the fish's own jelly. >> we like to have everything in life in our mouth. >> so this is a good time to talk about cod? because the basque are not getting to america or newfoundland without swordfish, right? if you didn't have protein that lasted, you could not project --

you could not explore and you could not project military power. >> absolutely. in the early times, something we know is the basque were drawn to the cod. we were forced to try it. and dry cooked, you can preserve -- dry cod, you can preserve it for years. >> but it's this dish that brings passionate eaters to el cano from all across the world. alturno grilled. perfect over the coals. it was the highlight each unique bit in its special characteristics. >> this is a special kind of fish. >> the light gelatinous skin,

the flesh, the fat, sumptuous belly. the bones, tiny scraps of the sweetest meat clinging to them. one dish a mosaic of many distinct flavors and techs tourtour -- textur textures, all of them epically delicious. >> this is like an anatomy lesson. >> absolutely. ♪

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sunday, may 21st eight seven central only on abc. [ foreign language ]

>> how old is the restaurant? >> 1897. >> 1897. starting with great-grandparents. i feel at home at this table. it is not my first time here by a long shot. i am among friends, friends who feel now like family. [ foreign language ]

>> so how many years in the restaurant business? in 1976, 12 basque chefs under

the influence of the newly emerged movement in france formed later what became known as the gang of 12, committing themselves to both modernizing and protecting the culinary traditions of their culture. juan marie arzak was at the forefront of that effort. his daughter continues to honor both that commitment and that responsibility. the food is innovative, wildly creative, forward thinking but always, always basque. mari marinated prawns on beech root and crunchy quill. roast pigeon with mastic and potato. >> this is very tender. you will see. >> i love it.

grilled hake jowls with salmon served on a bombay leaf. grilled monkfish with a paste and higheiroglyphicheiroglyphic. >> white tuna with green melon and a jackfruit sauce.

>> squid with walnut ginger paste, cilian sauce and black tomato. >> what is his plan? i knew he was going to say this. >> he would like to die at this table. >> not tonight. not tonight.

>> i first came here in, i think, 2001. 15 years ago. you know, my father died very young. but i'd like him to know that since the first time i came here, i feel like he's looked after me like a father. he's been a loyal and good friend and supporter. i want him to know i appreciate him. [ foreign language ] >> he's only 14 years older than me, but -- could be my older brother. >> big brother.

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. you can wander anywhere in san sebastian and find fantastic things to eat. casa urola does not look like a place you'll find things like this. peas in a consomme of verico ham. the food is so good in this town, it's really outrageous. you walk by this place, you don't expect this. olatz gonzalez is a documentary filmmaker.

wow. i know this is the end of squid season. everybody says this. everybody knows. the basque obsession or insistence on really, really good ingredients. the fish has to be in season. it has to be incredibly fresh. it always has to be the best of everything. >> the basque are very obsessive with quality. for example, as you know, i did a thesis in the basque poleta. >> poleta, if you didn't know, is the most popular sport in basque culture. its origin goes back to the middle ages. the basque are as obsessive about this pastime as they are about food. >> most conversation are about things of quality.

they pass some days bouncing the ball for the match, and they need to know which one is the best for the match and how it behaved. so the obsession, and i think male obsession, with quality is also something that happens in the sport just like with the food. >> basque language and culture exists on all sides of the border. not surprising as they predate both countries. this may be france, but it's

still paey basque. >> we have a french culture in the french basque country and the spanish basque country. >> is there a difference between the french and the spanish side? >> on the spanish side was the dictator franco. it was forbidden to speak in basque. on the french side, it's true there was a little less pressure about talking basque, but because a lot of people were coming from paris, from big towns for retirement, we're losing the best language. >> do we drink spanish wine? do we drink french wine? we drink french wine. >> french wine. >> okay, good. we're in the town of lahetz.

maure maureen girt was born in the french basque. things are different here. the relationship between basque and french cultures have always been more graceful and less contentious. you can see it and feel it and taste it at the table. tuna belly with tomato carpaccio. pigeon roasted and then flambeed and served with a pate of the same bird. >> on this side of the border, are the chefs creative or more traditional? >> they are influenced by the french pigeon which is more complex. on the other side, we simplify. here it's a little bit more complex. >> why is the food so good? >> because we like eating. that's the main point. why are we going to use things

which are in the freezer? you're going to try to do it always fresh, very simple but with very good taste. i would say that would describe the best food. it's really simple but fresh. this lovely lady has a typical airline credit card. so she only earns double miles on purchases she makes from that airline. what'd you earn double miles on, please? ugh. that's unfortunate. there's a better option. the capital one venture card. with venture, you earn unlimited double miles on every purchase, everywhere, every day. not just airline purchases. seems like a no-brainer. what's in your wallet?

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[ foreign language ]

>> there is no better city for food than this one. look, it's going to be a problem because you're going to have like millions and millions of tourists coming here to eat, you know. every year more. >> we have been discovered not only by tourists but by spanish people. >> this is what i heard. >> the only people from spain who came here all the time were people from barcelona and some people from madrid. some people. >> so-called bro food, in fact,

predates the advent of the slider or donkey sauce and probably even the high five. they are basically all male gender societies. that has changed over the times. it is still strictly basque and still members only. were you all born here in san sebastian? >> most of us. we are surrounded by the green mount taiains and the blue sea. almost any day of the week, you can have fresh food. >> there is one thing my dad always said, we don't have money to go on holiday or buy new shoes. but food? always.

>> who cooks? tonight it's pable. prawns with green sauce. >> we don't like herbs or spices at all. the most we use is garlic. because people have the idea if you add many spices and herbs to something you're cooking here, you might be suspicious about maybe it's not so fresh. you want to take this food and put in another country, maybe moscow, maybe new york, it's impossible to cook in this way, and people don't understand. >> now, someone i was talking to yesterday had a theory. she said the men talk about the difference between things, the

difference between this bicycle and that bicycle, the difference between this bicyclist and that bicyclist. and that this is an innate part of the basque culture. >> i don't think it's exclusively here, i think it's just something that comes from franco years. >> where is franco bello, by the way? is he in a gravestone or did they roll him in a ditch? >> it's a huge place. >> if you were to visit franco's grave, unzip and take a piss on him, would you be arrested? would that make you popular or unpopular? >> popular. >> for the main, fried hake with cicoli and steamed clams.

so, what is the best thing about this for you? you've lived here your whole lives. >> so many things so near. we have friends near, i have the coast near. i have the mountains near. i have very, very good, it's the way of life. and it's the way of life. you are able to keep the very same group of people as you are old. >> yes, yes, that table. >> men in 40s, i'm sure they know each other from they are ten or five years old. and they keep oncoming here every week. and have dinner here, every week. >> there is always more to the story. for a world of stories, travel

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>> this place, deep in the valley about an hour outside of san sebastian, one of the most loved by chefs restaurants in the world. it is in every way extraordinary. sometimes with chefs, we sit around and we play this game, if you had to die at one restaurant, you know, what would your last meal -- what restaurant would you like your last meal at. and they were coming up with

restaurants and i said, what about eche bare. they all changed their answer. they said, no, you're right, that one. it's so perfect. my lunch companion is my old friend virginia. with her father she runs the restaurant, her father the original group of 12. of man who showed me, well, everything in san sebastian. your father started here. >> 16 years old. white wine, ice cold. otherwise we're in trouble. >> understandable chb. so, what did they do that was different? >> they tried to make traditional food less heavy, less greasy, that sort of thing. >> and this man, victor

argonsonis, is a legend. he is a master of what looks austere and simple, but in a japanese way, perfectionist in his treatment of local ingredients. he skookz everything himself made from char cool made from wood he cuts himself. he makes iberian pork loin served over a tiny grill still smoking, infusing it with scent and flavor. that's so good. so good, so simple. the caviar, whouhowever improba it sounds, grilled and heaped. i would make people feel bad about what they're eating. perfectly, perfectly cooked prons. >> it's huge.

squid grilled and served in its own ink. beautiful, it's very nice. and the most delicious, the beef chop grilled, perfectly rested and ready. look at that. why are the ingredients so good? i mean, the basic ingredients are always super high quality everywhere. where does this come from? >> i think it's just the way, we wouldn't have it any other way. follow that. ♪ ♪

♪

/s [cheering and applauding] >> this episode is all about chicago and we're going to those places people think you're not supposed to go to because that's what we do on this show. people have this skewed perception because all the news of chicago is about the violence and gang violence. people take that and put it on the whole city without actually going to the city or doing research about the city. we do that in this country. every now and again, a city gets that label, you don't want to go there. you don't want to go to new york city. you don't want to go to washington, d.c. you don't want to go to detroit. you don't want to go to chicago. i've never seen a