>> man wearing morrissey shirt: i've been dreaming of a time when to be english is not to be baneful. to be standing by the flag not feeling shameful, racist or partial. forever. ♪ ♪ >> edorta: an old basque saying goes -- we are because we were, what we were, who we were, we dot know. we don't kw where our language came from. it's been mixed with several other languages.

twenty-five thousand years and all the people who crossed his sea. our language is the one we have today. this language of ours is our nation, after all. ♪ ♪ i took a walk through this beautiful world ♪ ♪ felt the cool rain on my shoulder ♪ ♪ found something good in this beautiful world ♪ ♪ i felt the rain getting colder ♪ ♪ sha, la, la, la, la, la, ♪ sha, la, la, la, la, la, ♪ sha, la, la, la, la, la, ♪ sha, la, la, la, la ♪ ♪

>> anthony: the basque country is an aunomous region. a place, a culture where the basque language is spoken. strictly speaking it's anarea straddling spain and france at the western end of the pyrenees. they've been speaking basque here long before the first roman arrived in 65 b.c. it is a very old language. how old? like the question of how far back their history goes and where it begins is not known. the best answer anyone can give you is long, long ago. >> anthony: what did this area, what did this coastline look like back in the 17th century? >> irati: so different right?

>> edorta: so different. >> irati: there's more landscape now the sea went further into the land. >> edorta: maybe some houses like three or four there but the other ones wasn't there. the church wasn't there. there was a small church maybe. that mountain, houses' watching to the sea was impossible. >> anthony: all the traditional houses were pointed inland? >> irati: yeah. before the industrial revolution with no heating systems -- >> anthony: right, the wind would come in. >> irati: you couldn't afford watching into the sea because the wind and the humidity make it impossible to maintain that kind of living. >> anthony: right. >> irati: so every house that has windows to the sea, this means it's not so old. >> anthony: edorta jimenez and his daughter erati are bot acclaimed authors and proud basque. and they know as much about their history as can be known. sea barnacles or percebes are much loved here. steamed briefly with a little salt, simple, like much of

basque cooking. >> irati: ah, okay, okay, okay. by the shell. >> anthony: that's delicious. very, very good, i love these. >> edorta: salud! >> anthony: salud! >> irati: and thank you for coming! >> anthony: how long do you think the basque people lived in this community? does anybody know? >> edorta: 25,000 years we are living here. >> anthony: so you're talking like cro-magnon. >> irati: yes. >> anthony: all the way back. >> irati: all the way back. >> anthony: and the language? from here? >> irati: we really don't know. it is the only language in europe that we know of that doesn't have anything to do with the rest of the languages, that doesn't come from the same place. >> anthony: right, and the basque genetic signature is also seemingly unique. nobodies finding any relatives anywhere. >> irati: they did this research with peoples dna from this area. >> anthony: yeah. >> irati: and the conclusion is that it's the same people that was living here uhh 25,000 years ago.

♪ >> anthony: so do you believe the basque that have always been here, that the language has been influenced by nobody else. >> edorta: and the mystery anthony is that we are in the way. >> anthony: yeah. >> edorta: and the iberian peninsula you have two natural ways, two natural passes. one is in the mediterranean side and the other one is in the atlantic side. we are in the way from the north to the south. >> anthony: well good negotiators. good fighters, good negotiators. ♪ ♪

>> anthony: you could make the argument that there's no better place to eat in europe than the city of san sebastian. there are more michelin starred restaurants per capita here than anywhere on earth. but even the everyday joints are superb. the love of food, the insistence on the very best ingredients is fundamental to the culture and to life here. and it's beautiful, did i say that? it's a beautiful city. >> arzak: well it's undoubtable that i'm, basque, and here there's a kind of gastronomical atmosphere. we are prophets in our land and

>> elena: you know exactly where to go, no? >> anthony: if i'm lost i'm only lost for 2 minutes. i always find my way. >> elena: you'll find it. >> anthony: oh, there he is. >> anthony: juan marie arzak has been, since i first met him, and his amazing and accomplished daughter elena, my mentor and friend steadfast and loyal in every way a person could be. father and daughter are two of the greatest chefs in the world. >> arzak: que tal? bien? you are happy? >> anthony: very, i love it here. osasuna? >> arzak: osasuna. ♪ >> anthony: these are what you call pinxos around here not tapas. these incredible batteries of

delicious, delicious things generally located near one another so you can easily and very pleasurably go out for what's called a "poteo", a bar crawl. grazing for the specialties of each place. >> ele: buenas! i would like, we start with a little bit of beer what do you think? >> anthony: yeah. >> elena: eh, not too much because we are going to another place. welcome! gabriella! >> anthony: gabriella rinelli has worked closely with both arzak's for years and is considered a leading authority on the basque culinary scene. >> gabriella: you've got to move from place to place because the important thing is you have different atmospheres you have different flavor profiles. people here really like the classics. you know, people go after exactly what they're looking for. >> anthony: fried quale egg, blood sausage and peppers. >> gabriella: this is like a whole breakfast on a piece of bread. >> anthony: wait a minute what's that? >> gabriella: sea urchin do you want to try some? >> anthony: sea urchin with onion and cava. >> elena: you are good at eating pinxos. it's so difficult to stop, no? >> anthony: yeah. ♪

>> anthony: walking anywhere in san sebastian with juan marie arzak is like walking through chicago with michael jordan or washington d.c with george washington. he's the godfather, universally beloved and respected. >> anthony: you're like elvis. you're like elvis presley. [ laughter ] ♪ >> anthony: why do the basque unique among their neighbors obsessively insist on such high quality ingredients for everything? >> arzak: it's always been about seasonal products, grown close to here. >> gabriella: people have a passion for food here. >> anthony: why here? >> arzak: i don't know. >> anthony: it's always been this way. >> gabriella: until about 80 years ago there wasn't a lot of this stuff written down.

>> arzak: there weren't any books written in basque or anything. everything was from mouth to ear. >> gabriella: right in here. ♪ >> anthony: nice. oh, okay. yeah i figured we're not walking by here. >> anthony: ganbara, my favorite place. i come here every time like a heatseeking missile. >> gabriella: this is where you'll find juan marie on every sunday. >> anthony: this is the first place anyone ever brought me in san sebastian. >> gabriella: really? >> anthony: yes. >> anthony: iberico ham with mushrooms are amazing. crab tartlets, extraordinary. >> anthony: mhmm, oh man. >> anthony: but this, the house specialty, what they're most famous for is the be all and end all for me. seared wild mushrooms and foie gras with a raw egg yolk gently draped over the top to sizzle and comingle with the hot fungi. >> elena: these plates, what can you do to make it better? >> anthony: no, it's impossible. >> elena: leave like that. >> anthony: it's perfect. there's no improving this dish. >> elena: no. now nobody talks, only we eat. anthony: right, total

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♪ ♪ >> xavier: we are in the basque country in a place called pasaia near san sebastian. this was the main basque port in the middle age. [ speaking spanish ] >> xavier: the basque ships in different times they were the top of the maritime technology. because of that they could face the big challenge of the ocean. this is a very old tradition. you see we have a very old language, we have a very old culture and that culture has been always looking at the sea. ♪ >> anthony: according to my basque friends, the basque

discovered america and didn't tell anyone. >> xavier: that's right. >> anthony: and who would they tell? >> xavier: well they didn't want to attract the attention of other fishermen, that's the reason. so, you see the maritime official history has been written by kings that wanted to claim something you know like, like this is mine, this is mine and i want everybody to know that. fishermen they did the opposite thing. that's why now the psychologists are finding evidences of our past and that's very important for us. >> anthony: xavier agote is a shipwright and founder of the

basque maritime heritage museum, where he works to preserve and promote the proud history of basque exploration of the sea. >> xavier: when i was a kid i used to go to san sebastian port and start fishing there. i remember the fishing boats come in and out every day, wooden boats fantastic. when i grew older i witnessed how all the traditional wooden boats that i love so much were being replaced by fiber glass boats. so when i was 18 i decided to become a boat builder. so for me it was one of the most enriching experiences in my life. ♪ ♪ >> xavier: and we created albaola like 20 years ago because nobody knew about the basque and the relationship with the sea. and at the moment we are building a dream of my life coming true which is a 16th century basque whaling galleon. my hope is that through this

project the basque people will know more about our maritime history. they will be proud of their ancestors, we decided to build this ship, nobody asked us. >> anthony: this used to be the center of the world for boat building. bad times for the spanish navy was good times for the basque. because if a lot ships are sinking that means more work here. >> xavier: absolutely, the basque were the first whalers, industrial whalers, in a time in which the basque were the only people hunting whales industrially. >> anthony: how many guys? >> xavier: in a classic rowing boat, 7 people. >> anthony: okay 7 people, guy out on front the strongest guy with a harpoon. >> xavier: that's right. >> anthony: a whole lot of rope. >> xavier: 200 meters rope. >> anthony: how big is the boat? >> xavier: 8 meters >> anthony: 8 meters? if the ropes get too wet you

sink, if you fall overboard you die. >> xavier: you die. >> anthony: if the boat capsizes you die. >> xavier: everybody dies. you have to tote that whale to the land, rowing, a 60 ton whale. >> anthony: 60 tons? >> xavier: 60 tons metric, you know is like big. >> anthony: so what happens if everything goes well? >> xavier: well you become very rich. [ laughter ] >> anthony:this place is the famous elkano in the seaside village of getaria, a place known and loved by chefs all over the world for what they call their paleolithic cooking. this straight up application of fire and a very few ingredients to make well, magic of a kind. ♪ rock prawn, the head and body are cooked separately. the body is served nearly raw, what they call semi-ceviche. while the heads are grilled. >> anthony: oh, that's nice. this is going to be good. >> xavier: that's very nice >> anthony: squid served the paleo way, grilled with an onion green pepper sauce.

>> anthony: wow look at this. >> xavier: oh excellent. >> anthony: look at that he puts the tentacles inside, nice. >> anthony: and kokotxas about as bone deep, old school, fundamentally basque an ingredient or a passion as there is. the jowls or chins of hake cooked pil-pil style in olive oil and swirled constantly to emulsify the oil with the fishes natural gelatin. >> xavier: what we like is the quality of the product, we like to have everything alive in our mouth. >> anthony: oh these are the kokotxas. >> xavier: yeah, but this is good for -- >> anthony: look at that. so this is a good time to talk about cod because the basque are not getting to america or newfoundland without salt sh right? if you didn't have protein that lasted you could not project, you could not explore, and you could not project military power. >> xavier: absolutely, absolutely in the early times something we know is that the basque were the only ones drying the cod sea salt, we lack of it

so we were to forced to dry it and dry cod, you could preserve it for years. ♪ >> anthony: but it's this dish that brings passionate eaters to elkano from all across the world. the turbot, grilled. >> anthony: look at that. that is beautiful >> anthony: perfectly over coals and then portioned out expertly by owner aitor arregi so as to highlight each and every unique bit and its special characteristics. >> aitor: you see all the white points. >> anthony: yeah. >> aitor: this is the protein of the fish. and it's good to eat, we can make it like a motion. >> anthony: the light gelatinous skin with soft and slightly caramelized flesh. >> anthony: mhmm wow. >> anthony: the fat, unctuous belly. >> xavier: he's finding every single secret of the fish. >> anthony: the bones, tiny scraps of the sweetest meats clinging to them. >> aitor: crunchy, gelatinous.

>> anthony: one dish a mosaic of many distinct flavors and textures all of them epically delicious. >> anthony: this is like an anatomy lesson. >> xavier: yeah absolutely. ♪ at whole foods market, we believe in food that's naturally beautiful, fresh and nutritious. so there are no artificial colors, no artificial flavors, no artificial preservatives in any of the food we sell. we believe in real food. whole foods market. give it a drink! l'oreal's hydra genius daily liquid care. our first liquid moisturizer with aloe water. absorbs instantly, for 72 hours of hydration. skin's quenched. looks fresh. new hydra genius

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♪ ♪ >> arzak: this house makes me

>> anthony: well how old is the restaurant? >> elena: since 1897 >> anthony: 1897, starting with great grandparents? >> anthony: i feel at home at this table. it's not my first time here not by a long shot. i am among friends, friends who feel now, like family. >> arzak: i was born here. i lived here, in a room that was right next to a dining room, and here my mom organized many little banquets. it was all very popular. cause my father died when i was eight, i am an only child, very spoiled by all the waitresses. first i helped my mom and then i

studied architecture for one year in madrid. there was a friend there who was in cooking school and he told me it was very simple. it was three years. at the weekends, you could work as an extra cook. and later i travelled around the world, i met bocuse, troisgros, chapel. >> anthony: so how many years in the restaurant business? >> gabriella: you're 74 now, right? >> arzak: seventy-four. since i was 20 or 22 i've been here with my mother. until i got married. i inherited the restaurant from my mother, because i was an only child. and she also left me some money. i've been very lucky. >> anthony: in 1976, 12 basque chef's under the influence of the recently emerged nouvelle

cuisine movement in france formed what later became known as the gang of 12. committing themselves to both modernizing and protecting the culinary traditions of their culture. juan marie arzak was at the forefront of that effort. his daughter elena continues to honor that commitment and that responsibility. >> anthony: the food is innovative, wildly creative forward thinking but always, always, basque. marinated prawns on lemongrass and mint with beetroot and crunchy krill. >> elena: for us, very good, it's the essence of the sea, you will see. >> anthony: mhmm oh man. >> anthony: roast pigeon with masstick and potato. >> elena: and this pigeon is really very tender you will see. >> anthony: i love it. >> arzak: there are two very important things in our kitchen. first the raw material, which are always local. and then the ingredients. >> anthony: grilled hake jowls with teff seeds and fresh almonds, served in a bamboo leaf.

>> arzak: the raw materials are always from around here but the ingredients can be from all over the world. but they have to be liked in our culture. >> anthony: grilled monkfish with a pecan paste and hieroglyphics of pumpkin and sweet pea. >> anthony: was it always like this, i mean his mother, his grandmother, was it always a menu that changed every day? what did you have to have on the menu? >> arzak: traditional food! >> gabriella: for example what dishes? >> arzak: prawns from huelva. then hake in the oven. and then they had either sirloin steak or chicken.

the good thing about basque cuisine is that it's very general in taste. >> anthony: white tuna with green melon and a jack fruit sauce. >> arzak: my palate belongs to this country and with that, i can make things very modern, creative, but always with our flavor. then, you have to consider, now, when we create new dishes, we create about 50 every year, we always take into account that palate. >> anthony: squid with walnut, ginger paste, psyllium sauce and black tomato. >> anthony: is he ever going to take off the chef jacket? what is his plan? >> gabriella: what is your plan for later? >> arzak: for me nothing, i remain in san sebastian. >> anthony: i knew he was going to say this. >> arzak: i would like to die at this table. >> gabriella: he wants to die at this table. >> arzak: i like. >> anthony: not tonight. >> gabriella: soon, no! >> arzak: no! >> gabriella: today no! >> arzak: this is the place where i feel best. the restaurant. >> anthony: i first came here in i think 2001, 15 years ago. you know my father died very young but look, i'd like him to

know that since the first time i came here i feel like he's looked after me like a father, he's been a loyal and good friend and supporter and i want him to know i appreciate him. [ speaking spanish ] >> arzak: as if i were his father. >>nthony: i mean he's only 14 years older than me but. [ speaking spanish ] >> arzak: not too much, eh? >> anthony: no, you could be my older brother. >> arzak: yes, yes, this, it's better i am the big brother. >> gabriella: yes, big brother. >> arzak: not the father. [ laughter ] >> anthony: but thank you. >> arzak: thank you. >> anthony: for everything. ♪ beyond is a natural pet food

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things to eat. casa urola in the old town does not outwardly look like a place you're going to find this. seared mushrooms with egg yolk and pine nuts. >> anthony: potato sauce. >> olatz: and yes and duck sauce. >> anthony: beautiful, wow look at that. >> anthony: grilled tuna, with a marmitako sauce, a reference to a classic fishermen's stew. peas in a consumé of iberico ham. >> anthony: pretty. the food is so good in this town i mean it's really outrageous. i mean you walk by this place you don't expect this. >> anthony: olatz gonzalez abrisketa is a professor of social anthropology and a documentary filmmaker. >> anthony: woah look at that. >> olatz: this is squid with white bean cream. >> anthony: wow. i know that this is the end of squid season. >> olatz: yeah >> anthony: everybody says this i mean everybody knows, the basque's obsession or insistence on really, really good ingredients. the fish has to be in season, the fish has to be incredibly fresh. it always has to be the best of everything.

>> olatz: the basque are very obsessive with qualities for example as you know i did a thesis about the basque pelota. ♪ >> anthony: pelota, if you didn't know is the most popular sport in basque culture. its origins go back to the middle ages. the basque are as obsessive about this pastime as they are about food. >> olatz: most of male conversations in basque country are about things and about quality of things. and they pass days and days bouncing the balls for the match and they need to know which one is best for the match, and how it behaves. ♪ >> olatz: so the obsession and i think a male obsession with quality is also something which happens with sports just like with the food.

♪ ♪ >> anthony: basque language and culture exist on both sides of a border. unsurprising is they predate both countries. this maybe france but it's still pais basque >> marielle: here in the french basque country, the basque country is divided by a frontier but were talking about the same country. the french basque country, and the spanish basque country. >> anthony: is there a difference between the french and the spanish side? >> marielle: well on the spanish side was the dictator franco, and it was forbidden to speak in basque. on the french side it's true

that there was a little less pressure about talking basque, because a lot of people were coming from paris, from a big town for retirement, we're losing the basque language. >> anthony: do we drink spanish wine do we drink french wine? we drink french wine. >> marielle: french wine. >> anthony: good. ♪ >> anthony: we're in the town of ahetze at la ferme ostalapia. marielle gurtner was born and in spanish basque country but raised in france. >> marielle: we've got a very good quality of life here. the sea, the mountain, the sun.

>> anthony: and the food >> marielle: and the food. >> anthony: things are different here. the relationship between basque and french cultures has always been more graceful and less contentious and you can see it and feel it and taste it at the table. ventre de thon or tuna belly with tomato carpaccio. pigeon, roasted and then flambéed swerved with a tureen or pate of the same bird. >> anthony: on this side of the border are the chef's as creative or more traditional? >> marielle: they're more influenced by the french cuisine which is more complex. on the other side we simplify, here it is a little bit more complex. ♪ >> anthony: why is the food so good? >> marielle: because we like eating, that's the main point. why are we going to use things which are in the freezer, you're going to try to do it always fresh very simple but with very good things. i will say that's what describes the basque cooking. it's really simple but fresh. ♪

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♪ >> mikel: sociedades are very important in our culture.

in fact they are a big part of culture here. this isn't like a restaurant. here, friends get together, whenever we want to celebrate lunch and dinner, and around that meal we talk. people from outside are really surprised by the friendship and togetherness that we have here. i still remember my grandfather, when he was over 90, coming here with his friends, opening a bottle of wine, and having some chorizo and having a few words with them and enjoying that moment. [ singing in spanish ] >> mik : \>> mikel>> mikel: we're all friends here, there are very different people on the economical or political level, and we're all equal here. the poorest and the richest are equal. we are people, and that's the

main thing here. >> anthony: there was no better city for food than this one. you know, look, it's going to be a problem because you're going to have millions and millions of tourist coming here to eat, you know. >> pablo: yeah just for eat. >> anthony: every year more >> lourdes: i think now we are being discovered, not only by foreigners, by spanish people. >> antonio: yes. >> anthony: this is what i heard. >> antonio: the only people from spain that came here all the time were people from barcelona. >> anthony: from catalonia of course. >> antonio: from catalonia, absolutely and some people from madrid, some people. ♪ >> anthony: so-called "bro" food in fact predates the advent of the kobe slider or donkey sauce and probably even the high five. txokos are private and historically all male gastronomical societies, though that gender rule has changed with the times. but it is still strictly basque, and strictly members only.

>> anthony: so was everybody born here, are you from san sebastia >> aitor: yes, san sebastian. >> anthony: most everybody. >> aitor: we are very lucky that we are just here surrounded by the sea, by the mountains, the green mountains, so in just one hour distance you have any kind of fresh product. >> antonio: we consider food as a part of our culture. i mean the importance it has in our everyday life i mean-- >> aitor: this is the best example right here. >> lourdes: there is one thing my dad always says "at home or at times we may not have money for you to go on holidays, or to buy a new car, even to buy new shoes, but food so important.

>> anthony: who cooks rotates between members, tonight it's pablo. the menu, diced raw tuna, grilled prawns with green sauce. >> aitor: have you noticed that we don't like herbs or spices at all. >> antonio: nothing, we don't. >> aitor: so the most we use is parsley. of course garlic and onion all the way. because people have the idea if you add many spices and herbs to something that you are cooking here, you might be suspicious that maybe they're not so fresh. >> anthony: right. >> pablo: you want to take this food and put in another country maybe moscow, maybe new york, it's impossible to cook in this way and people don't understand. ♪ >> anthony: someone i was talking to yesterday had a theory. she said, the men talk about the difference between things, the difference between this bicycle and that bicycle, the difference between this bicyclist and that bicyclist. and that this is an innate part of the basque culture. >> antonio: that's a good theory. >> lourdes: i don't think it's exclusively from here, i think this is something that comes from franco years. >> anthony: where's franco buried by the way?

>> aitor: in madrid. valle de los caidos. >> antonio: in valle de los caidos. >> anthony: big gravestone? or did they sort of just roll him into a ditch? >> aitor: it's a huge place >> anthony: if you were -- i'm not suggesting you do this, but if you were to visit franco's grave, unzip and take a piss on it would you be arrested? >> lourdes: yeah. >> aitor: no, you would be on the news all around the world. >> anthony: would that make you popular or unpopular? >> aitor: uh popular. ♪ >> anthony: for the main fried hake cooked with txakoli and steamed clams. ♪ >> anthony: so what's the best thing about this city for you, i mean you've lived here your whole lives. >> antonio: i mean so many things, so near. i have friends near i have all the coast near, i have the mountains near, i have very very

good gastronomy. >> aitor: it's the way of life. >> antonio: and it's a way of life. >> aitor: it's the way of life. you are able to keep the very same group of friends until you are old. >> antonio: and you can see it there. >> aitor: yes, yes that table. >> antonio: and they're in 40's and i'm sure they know each other from they are 10 or 5 years old. and they keep on coming here every week and have dinner here every week. ♪

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[ singing ] ♪ ♪ >> this place deep in the valley about an hour outside, one of the greatest most iconic clastic and most loved by chefs restaurants in the world. it is in every way extraordinary. >> sometimes with chefs we sit around and we play this game, if you had to die at one restaurant, you know, what would yourast -- what restaurant would you like your last meal. they were coming upith restaurants, i was like -- they

all changed their answer. oh, no, no, no, you're right. you're right. it's so perfect. >> my lunch companion is my old friend virginia. with her father she runs the -- her father being lou weis of the original group of 12 and a man who first showed me, well, everything in sansebastian. >> your dad's first job was at the marine. is it true he started there? >> 16 years old. >> his first was to keep the white wine ice cold otherwise we're in trouble. >> it's understandable. what did they do that was different. >> they did try to modernize the traditional food, make it less heavy, less greasy, that sort of thing. >> this man victor is a legend. he is a master of what looks

austere, but simple in a japanese way, perfectionist in his treatment of local ingredients. victor cooks everything himself from his own charcoal made from wood he cuts himself. theresa which he makes served over a tiny grille still smoking it and infusing it wit scent and flavor. >> so good. so simple. >> ballogacavier. >> i want to make other people feel bad about what they're eating. >> grilled perfectly cooked prawns. >> it's huge. this is -- wow. >> line caught squid, grilled and served in his own inc. >> beautiful. that's very nice.

and the most delicious king beef chop, grilled perfectly rested and ready. >> look at that. >> why are the ingredients so good. i mean, the basic ingredients are always super high quality, everywhere. where does this come from. >> i think we wouldn't have it any other way. it's as simple as that. ♪ ♪ ♪

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for korean americans according to the stereo type use to be that you grew up to be a doctor, lawyer, an engineer. there were specific set of rules that expectations. >> are you asking me to be in a porno, is that what you're asking me? >> thanks to some remarkably bad koreans, though, things are beginning to change. >> i went to one year law school and walked away. >> any final advice who is about to marry a korean woman. the answer, don't do it. . ♪ ♪