i'm going to have to see if he kept that gun. as long as that mess sang is out there, mission accomplished. >> nice one. >> yeah.

♪ . ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪

it's morning in the arabian desert. the place explorer thomas called the abode of death. but it's a beautiful place, the kind of place i look for more and more these days. stark, empty, clean sand that stretches out seemingly forever. ♪ ♪

♪ ♪ ♪ oman defies expectation. it shouldn't, according to the cruel logic of the world, exist. but it does and it's incredible. ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ this is an absolute monarchy. a predominantly islamic state in a vital strategic choke point in the world's supply. ♪ >> it is surrounded by some of the trickiest and most contentious powers in the

region. and yet, here it is, relatively small, tolerant, welcoming to outsiders, peaceful, and stunningly beautiful. but they're facing uncertainty with succession issues and declining oil reserves. the question of what's next is big but often unspoken one. so pre1970, this was a very different place to live, very different country. >> quite simply, there was none. we had only three schools all over and only for boys. we had only two hospitals. >> for the whole country. >> yes. >> and nine miles of paved road. >> and what happened outside was really of no concern to the leadership. >> absolutely. yes. ♪ >> he's a businessman in the sun

of a triebl leader. he's the kind of guy who will likely be prominent in the future of the country. >> replaced his father and took the country really from the 19th century into the 20th century very, very -- >> absolutely, his majesty took over the change. >> this is not the democracy, but everybody, everybody, it seems, has genuine affection and respect. ♪ >> he's the much admired absolute ruler and monarch. he's presided over everything for the last 47 years. in that time, he's raised a nation, literally, from a dusty, primitive back water, to modern, functioning, largely secular society. >> his mission was to deliver the surfaces first and just

health care, medication. it was like a one-man show. >> usually one man shows are not a good thing. >> that's right. >> historical, seldom does that work out. you know, you look around and see the country is feeling now, it's pretty impressed. >> determine this job, majesty has done. people felt like he was the man they were waiting for to enlighten their life and open doors for them. >> he understood, since at the top of the indian ocean realm. the empire one stretch from pakistan to east africa, important trade groups, beach, southern africa all the way to china straights, indonesia and deep into east asia. modern oman is a fraction of

that size now. it's dna, culture, cue sooen, some extent at tut toward the outside world is a reflection of that. mantra is a ton important town. >> one of the reasons i notice about the city, very low slug. it seems like a calculated anesthetic decision. >> here is someone who wants to build your house, you first submit your plans, if you're going about a certain height, it's genuinely frowned upon. it's to speak vernacular. >> iesha cure rater focused on middle eastern art history. she's like many young people pay tree yac

-- patriotic to the point of being nerdy. >> it functions very similar to how it would function the you were coming into 200 years ago. now we're coming to the quornesh. it's a beautiful word. the food is a mix of flavors and ingredients and taste from all over the former empire. this is an old boardinghouse turned restaurant where you can try dishes which come back from india and food from east africa and the special classic event dish. they do one version or another of this all over the world. but it's special. they slather it with a paste ksting of cinnamon, nutmeg and

then wrap the meat in palm or banana leaves, dig a hole, throw in some meat, cover it up to leave under ground for a day or two over hot coals. >> they're changing in a way that's unique to anywhere i've been. i haven't seen anyplace that has sort of maintained architecture and the character that this country has and that's really unusual fix. >> the only country i think that kept their tradition and if you travel outside, you see the flavor of the lives to death. >> a film maker, artist and -- representing the increasingly vocal point of view of young women in the middle eastern art

scene. >> we have a tradition of story telling and same thing without saying them delicate, they took this from poetry they have a certain language with a lot of sub text. >> there's an unusual mix here, very graceful, very proud mix of cultures of languages. the mix was existent from the beginning. >> there's a beauty and understand the other. >> such a difficult time to make that argument, the whole world seems to be going in exactly the opposite direction. i mean, my country, the last thing anyone wants to highlight the other. because of the history. it's a traditional reality. that's our background. that's who we are.

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you know about the vietnam war. what you might not know is while that conflict raged on, oman along with military advisers were engaged in a war in the southern far region that was in every way, far more vital to american security interest and far more importance to global strategic and economic concerns. >> where we operated, the wise men got to christ, all of a sudden it came through mountains where we were fighting. >> sitting behind a machine gun on a track which have been used for 3,000 years when felt like an intruder. and if the trees were cut you

could smell the franken scents. the smell of exclusives and the smell of blood. the smell of the food, the smell of the tea. i loved it. this was a civil war, civil wars, typically, are the worst wars. you knew that very much from your country. >> most people have not heard it. >> you would have heard about it if we lost it, i could have told you. >> the war began is -- as a local rebellion against the out dated rule. who kept his nation isolated and stunted out of concern for his hold on power. what started as a local uprising quickly became a serious full blown urgency as soviet and chinese influence poured in

through yemen. he fought it as a british loyal marine and later wrote about the experience, rare chronical the brutal incredibly difficult and almost entirely unknown war fought in the rugged southern mountains. >> nothing imhumane. he was an old man. he wanted to keep his country in a med evil time war. the thing that changed it was the transition radio. the first time his people could hear what other arab countries are being and they wanted some of that. >> by the 1920s winston church hill switched from coal to oil and suddenly everything changed. they needed oil and lots of it, which made oman vital, not for its limited oil resources, but

for where it is, the straight, the persian gulfs artery, 20% of the world's oil flows through here pep making it one of, if not the most strategically important waterways on the planet. >> our 1970 wars counter insurgency was not going well. he was deposed by his son in a relatively bloodily coup, immediately, the young one set out on a different tack for winning the war. >> before the shooting had stopped, we were institute a civil aid program, build a school, build a mosque, build some shops, clinic. it was in this way was able to demonstrate that he was the one who had his people's best interest at heart, not the communist. >> the thing seldom work out so well, insurgency, counter

insurgency. this tactic failed spectacular, what made the difference here. >> every war in history, you end up living with the other and if you can open a respectful door, successfully and less likely the aftermath is set with hatred and thirst for revenge, the short time took this very brave highly intelligent political risk, which i think was the difference and i think has been the foundation of the unambiguous and enduring peace in this country. >> in 1976 they laid down their weapons an never picked them up again. the resulting peace has lasted

for 40 years. while it ain't your system and it ain't my system and it's far far from being either perfect or western style democracy. there's a palble pride here in the collective identity of being omani. notably, as well, they've placed emphasis on the role of women, declaring at least as a matter of policy, equal rights to political office, work and

policy. >> four extraordinary women. >> what started as a wave spawned a lucrative industry for catering of events. now rather than using her family money, her business is able to fully finance her work to children in the nearby villages. >> i was on the simpsons, yes. >> this was the first time i've before recognize from the simpsons, that's really nice so some of the money that you're

making is going to open schools and villages; is that correct? >> not only as part of the money. it's to build within the schools and to provide education. >> why is this important to you? >> they're pan sered dumpling stuffed with ginger, tumeric and onions and then there's the bread. >> that's the chili. are you okay with that? >> yes. i like spicy.

>> everyone here says the economy is going to have to shift away from oil to other industries. how would you like to prepare your daughters for the future. >> the young ladies, when they reach adulthood, what are your hopes and dreams?

♪ ♪ (burke) at farmers, we've seen almost everything, so we know how to cover almost anything. even a coupe soup. [woman] so beautiful.

[man] beautiful just like you. [woman] oh, why thank you. [burke] and we covered it, november sixth, two-thousand-nine. talk to farmers. we know a thing or two because we've seen a thing or two. ♪ we are farmers. bum-pa-dum, bum-bum-bum-bum ♪ well it's a perfect nespresso hold on a second.orge. mmm. ♪ [mel torme sings "comin' home baby"]

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as one moves away from the coast of the inner interior, everything changes. this is the country's more c conservative core, its spiritual

central. ♪ ♪ uniquely, the majority is either sunny or shiiad a very old form of islam. this is the distinction we in the west would be wise to notice. islam is not a modelist, it comes in many forms. the theology, arguably forms the backbone of many of the codes of conduct. it places value on concepts like politeness, acceptance, unity, and understanding. perhaps as a consequence of that, it embraces grace and tack

as a matter of foreign policy. internally, too, it's avoided radicalism and violence, used considered shameful by the teachings to draw blood over religious conflicts unless attacked. the terror and blood shade feels very far away up here. the green mountain. >> this area, look at this. it's so beautiful. >> yeah. 64. >> this place is great. >> how many generations have your family lived here? >> 200 years, maybe, more than 100 years. >> grandfathers built that. and they built all these things with only in their hands. they don't have any machines, can you imagine that?

>> his father, ali and his uncle come from a long line of hard-working farmers. they grew up here, generation after generation, farm land which has produced pomer granite. nuts and grapes. but like so many places i go, so many traditional agri cultural community, the young men and women are looking elsewhere, beyond the farm to seek higher education and opportunity in the city. >> this is common story, i mean, the young man, they go to university. >> i have to, you know, i went to get a good job. >> many, they study abroad. they study in america and england, but most of them seem to come back. only go outside to study and get

something. you want to return back to your country and grow up in this village. it's something simple and i already miss it. >> you don't like it. >> sometimes. >> big show. >> so what do we have here. >> delicious. >> delicious. >> man, that looks good. what's in it? >> the celebration. we call it lamb. >> lamb. >> that's fantastic. wow! never had this. how do you say delicious? that's what it is. how did you learn to cook this

well? >> i have to learn how to cook because no one is taking care of our family. you should take care of yourself. >> so if you would rather be here, why not continue as your parents and grandparents? >> i want to invent something. >> you're planning for a post oil, like after the oil. i think the whole country feels this way. everybody else feels this way, as well. i can say the country is changing. you have a luxury resort over there. the future looks much like this. the resort opens up. they have jobs for people to carry golf bags for tourist, is this good or bad? >> you have to deal with traditional way and your life. we want to keep all things safe.

it's more of the responsibility to make balance between advantage and disadd advantages. >> it's a very delicate balance here. these are old and complicated systems that have been working for a very long time. >> it's very difficult. it keeps changing. cannot keep everything as it is before. >> do you know this guy? >> it's the garden?

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oman's history are linked to the sea. it began with trade and it is likely that a new multi billionaire port on the coast intended as a center for international shipping to play a significant role in the coming years. ♪ ♪

♪ ♪ spent every free moment at sea without oxygen for grouper, king fish, cuddle fish and tulip. he's the captain and owner of this boat. salas is a former navy officer who famously sailed the century dialled 3,000 miles to

singapore. the first boats that went out into the sea around how far back, how many years. >> i would say more than 3,000 years. >> so bc. >> bc, yeah. >> now, in the beginning it was fisherman, but then start to trade all up and down east africa, iran, china straits, china. >> the evidence about it even in their china, there's some arabic. >> interesting. >> it's very interesting. >> what did the chinese have to change that they wanted. >> exchange with the silk, fabric and all those kind of things. coming back, not only ie rabs went there, indians came as well. so if you look at the cost, the lack of spices and all of this kind of food. >> the people also, i mean, it's a real mix of southern indian, african, maybe that's why the food is so delicious.

>> the food is so delicious because we like the taste. >> lunch's fresh sardines, grilled over charcoal. some incredible prawns. ♪ cook out staple, cube beef on skewers this caramel and grilled. and of course the slippery lobsters. do not forget the cuddle fish. ♪ ♪ >> delicious. wow the cuddle fish is incredible. >> we cannot live without this. our relationship with the sea is too strong. >> so you go in the water every

day. >> myself, i like being in the water, even 24 hours, i don't mind. >> this is what's so great about it, people cannot go away from the sea itself, from the sand itself. what we like is nature. we want to make it as natural as it looks and it appears and how it was before. >> we're in this beautiful country and we try to look after it. go inside and it's like, if we keep it, and look after it and give them the right water. it will grow.

♪ ♪ ends

♪ ♪ 130 miles south, the pavement ends and you hit this on the edge the largest sand desert in the world. what you get, things change. everything changes. you change. this is the traditional demean.

over thousands of years have moved across the harsh, dry, seemingly endless landscape making it their home. he and his family continue the tradition. he's a hard core ambassador of the empty places of the desert, he spent more time there, much of it alone than just about anyone. it's their area. and they don't have to leave and they don't have to suffer. >> mark evans knows firsthand how difficult the empty quarter can be. guided by the company and accompanied by muhammad, he

recently made the crossing walking over 600 miles with camels and toe. >> we didn't touch our food at all and it became a competition to be more generous than the previous. >> you need people out there all along the way. >> people would find you and travel. ♪ ♪ ♪

>> i know just what i'm going for. i've i got it. >> abdullah: pull it. yeah, that is one. >> anthony: cheek. >> ahmed: yeah. here, it's too hot. this is the point. >> anthony: good. >> mohammad: it's good if you've got whiskey or brandy or -- [ laughter ] >> mark: you know, the empty quarter is emptier than it's ever been. it's almost impossible to do what the old explorers did, because they relied upon local people being in situ. bedouin have migrated to their edge of the deserts where life's easier, really. but they don't want to let go completely. amer sends his children to school, in badr, yet he wants them to live in the sand where they have the freedom and that connection to their roots.

♪ ♪ ♪ there's always more to the

story. [boy] cannonball! [girl] don't... [man] not again! [burke] swan drive. seen it. covered it. we know a thing or two because we've seen a thing or two. ♪ we are farmers. bum-pa-dum, bum-bum-bum-bum ♪ well it's a perfect nespresso hold on a second.orge. mmm. ♪ [mel torme sings "comin' home baby"]

hey there. want a lift? ♪ where are we going? no don't tell me. let me guess. ♪ have a nice ride. ♪ how far would you go for coffee that's a cup above? i brought you nespresso. nespresso. what else? there are the wildcats 'til we die weekenders. the watch me let if fly. this i gotta try weekenders. then we've got the bendy... ... spendy weekenders. the tranquility awaits. hanging with our mates weekenders and the it's been quite a day... ...so glad we got away weekenders. whatever kind of weekender you are, there's a hilton for you. book your weekend break direct at hilton.com and join the weekenders. this is a story about mail and packages. and it's also a story about people.

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♪ anthony: has someone crossed the empty quarter alone, absolutely alone? >> abdullah: no. you need people. >> anthony: no, you need people with you. >> mark: in my earlier years i was taking lots of new people on expeditions up to the arctic. which is very different to here but the inuit and the bedouin have a lot of similarities.

they both live on the edge of human tolerance. they're much more open and friendlier people. ♪ ♪

♪ ♪ >> mark: it's like coming home when you come out here. it's very, incredibly powerful and enables you to put everything in perspective. fritjof nansen, the norwegian explorer said that, "salvation will not come from the rushing senses of civilization. deliverance will come from the

lowly places." in other words we all need places to think and calm down. >> man wearing olive coat: [ speaking in arabic ]

[cheering and applauding] >> thank you, thank you, thank you. thank you. many of us have not thought about puerto rico until hamilton. let's be clear about that. yeah, manuel more an put puerto rico back on the map where it belongs. puerto ricans are american citizens. yep, three people. convince me. get wikipedia, pull it down. can't pull it for the presidency. they have 3 million people on the island. we could have used those votes, you know what i'm saying? just to win more.