they will grow and they will learn. there's nothing that's going to hold them back and they are going to have a happy life.

as so many have found through the history it's easy to fall in love with rome. she is beautiful and endured and

survived many things. what's left of her former glory is her days of empire are in ruins but these ruins continue to enchant us. you fall into a. >> translator: hetrans/* -- tra here no matter what this beautiful dream will last forever and suddenly she gets real. before world war one, the nato must lean knee was considered a bully and a crack pot, a short temper ever so -- from the small of preadopt owe. in time the country was divided and in cris, it saw itself -- with enemies and without. it needed someone to help it say

it could make italy great again. it was a man on a horse saying follow me and they did. when fa shows marched on rome -- and news lean knee was determined as king. it can happen anywhere. it happened here nearly a century later this is what he left behind, the rome that many romans still live in today.

so this is not a show been monuments or statues or the treasures of anticity. this is about people, often extraordinary ones living their lives in the rome you don't see much of in the travel guides or t.v. shows. >> painting of -- i was watching such films asthma pharaoh may. [speaking foreign language] >> all right. [speaking foreign language]

>> i love this spice, i want to die here already. and i might get. some people ask me in my hotel where they should seat, just wherefore the concierge tell you to go, don't go there. [speaking foreign language] >> that's beautiful. oh man, that's so completely awesome. [speaking foreign language] .

>> the apollo passly knee was one of the great film makers who celebrated the working sblushs of rome. [speaking foreign language] >> he was a vocal opponent of fash schism and those who he felt allowed it to happen. his -- was down and out victims, brew tissue and wounded

afternoon played by people rather than actors. [speaking foreign language] . >> but they were always depicted as antic angelic, rome's true heroes. >> the hard slap of rhetoric on wet skin, the hard of muscle and bone. there was blood and suite and bitter tears as these warriors face each other in brutal combat. but hey, there's pasta and a nice glass of wine. >> this is pretty absurd.

>> these people are fighting their hearts out, getting brain damaged and i'm eating spaghetti. >> this is violent too. i'm looking at the ideas of one of the guys. >> actor director is a member of a dynamic family stretching back generation ls. her father is dario or general toe accredited with creating an innovated whole and style through the horror film as we know it. >> how big is your family? like if you were to have a -- >> we don't. >> you don't do a big gathering of the clans? she has a reputation for saying what shelves regardless of what people might think.

her semi auto biographical film misunderstood played at the festival. [speaking foreign language] . >> auz ya is the single mother of two children and lives month decemberly in a middle class neighborhood on the outskirts of rome. she remains and lives roman by blood and attitude. >> fantastic. >> it's actually great. the glad yarts was -- rome inia

way. >> so romans complain? >> they romans they complain about everything. oh it's a nightmare, complaining about begin cities. >> right. >> about the mayor. >> who's taking over, what a fash schism, mousse elena. >> my daughter okay. she goes to private school, but not like, you know, it's a -- school. okay. a kid would get on the teacher's desk and start chanting like hitler i love you and -- at the same time as you see around the synonymous with muesli knee and it hasn't been burned down. normally you wouldn't see behavior like that it would be absurd. here, no.

the see rees of high speed away connected with no shoulders, connected rome to the mediterranean. it is today's italy's most

dangerous road. the via dell pie remakes an abrupt end in austria. there's a line here to pad lean knee he was beaten to death by young male husbandlers, though many contributed the murder to neofacism and rated politics. >> i got some -- >> oh. >> i meet my good friend sara among austria's post-housing blocks just off the beach in a place that's knew to us both. >> the people here ooriginally

from sardine ya. >> bang low or the friend's corner is a bar where everyone knows everybody's name. if their sober enough to remember. >> he's a professional boxer. >> he's a professional boxer. >> he was. >> his ears look good. [speaking foreign language] . >> he calls himself the little -- here everybody had a nickname. [speaking foreign language] . >> he would -- just so -- [speaking foreign language] . >> austria might be bribed as rome's equivalent to the jersey shore. a suburban seaside near the poor beside the working class despite -- be rome's front d

[speaking foreign language] . >> so tell us about austria, where are we? [speaking foreign language] . >> these are not vacation homes? >> no no no. forget about tourists there are not many. >> this is like the closest beach to rome right, everybody love it is beach. why is there not expensive hotels and money money money, casinos and? >> here -- >> the work has always been considered and not interesting.

[speaking foreign language] . >> okay. cheers. >> i'm curious because i'm always interested in food. typical day, what's for breakfast lunch and dinner? >>break fa >> breakfast, a pastry. >> salam mee, ham. >> he says -- but here we have cap cheen know and croissant. [speaking foreign language] . >> she said that -- [speaking foreign language]

. >> i've been introduced to these roman songs with titles like i never want to stop stabbing you. those wonderful songs. >> where did you get that? >> apparently they recall originally invented by people in bars and prisons. do you know anything about these songs? >> all i know is making fun of someone in situations and using swear words. this is very romantic, this is like a serenade for girls so. [speaking foreign language] .

>> these wonderful expressions like if i hear that you tell me i'm having a baby, i can say your dead relatives. this is an acceptable expression. [speaking foreign language] >> but you're not even angry whether you say this is a casual expression. >> it depends on why you're saying that. [speaking foreign language] >> if you go like this. she have bloody dead relatives and it's nice thing. [speaking foreign language] . >> but if you change the hand and comes like an ax you're really angry. >> so this is okay. ? >> this is okay. >> but like this is not good. >> no no. >> this is the worst. [speaking foreign language] .

♪.

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♪ >> all the way. >> think about it.

>> looked good. >> anthony you're going to be here. >> and daughter anna. >> when i was little one time they were put in my underpants and i was. >> you piece eid onour face. >> i piece eid on my face i was surprised. >> are you not suppose to say these things.

>> are you liking rome do you like it here? >> of course. >> what do you like? >> i like this neighborhood. >> why do you live here? >> i don't know aye lived away for many years and then -- >> you lived in asia no. >> really where? >> that's not a bad place to live. >> yeah. >> it's nice. >> every time when i'm away i misyou all. when i'm in rome -- >> go you take t for granted when you drive by the coliseum? >> yeah don't even look at it. >> what about you do you think wow it's awesome here. >> yeah i appreciate it a lot but it's not every time i drive by. >> this year it's -- >> why the coliseum? >> yeah like? >> why is it better it's been there for 2,000 plus year?

>> well other years it was -- >> dirty. >> and there was plastic like somewhere. >> oh they were -- >> yeah. and this year it's all perfect. >> this is ox tail. >> i ate one without the sauce i tasted like human figures, skin. >> it's my favorite thing on earth but if you don't do it right. >> smell like wet dog. >> i use to like t as a kid even though was particular about food, i was not add venue trous

i hated food because my mother would impose us to eat all this crazy stuff, like brains like, it was horrible. boiled pains when your 5 and you see the brain and such. >> well it was sure that the brain make -- and someone sit in the -- >> nick, you don't have to eat like if you don't like >> nicola: i like this, uh, >> you did good. >> hang in there boy.

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♪ >> anthony: the eur. built by mussolini as a symbol of the triumph of fascism.

these buildings were not designed to thrill or elevate or warm with their beauty. they are designed to dwarf the individual, to intimidate, to remind constantly that the state is all-powerful and supreme. that the individual is meaningless in the grand scheme of things. one person, just like the other. fungible, replaceable, ultimately worthless. ♪

>> abel: hey! >> anthony: how are you? >> abel: hey, tony, how are you? this is christina. >> anthony: hi, how are you? good to meet you. hi. >> lucia: lucia. >> abel: that's my sister. will you say hi to tony? >> anthony: hello. hi. there's a big difference right away between living in italy and living in new york. they're happy to see kids in restaurants here. it's a whole different thing. >> abel: if you bring a kid into a restaurant in new york, these guys shoot you with a look like -- >> anthony: right. >> abel: "you got to be kidding." you know? "we're trying to do coke in the bathroom. you think we wanna look and --" >> anthony: right. the notorious, once demonic, abel ferrara is a married man now, and a daddy. things are different. >> abel: i was able to really get sober for the first time -- i remember, it was my

61st birthday, and i'm looking at this cake with a 16 backwards and it was the first time since i was 16 years old and i had my birthday, i was sober. >> anthony: the director of "pasolini," "bad lieutenant," and "king of new york," among others. how long have you been here now? >> abel: living steady here, um, two years. i came to shoot the film "pasini," then i met christina, it was the craziest thing we shot. right? i mean, totally -- >> christina: it was the most crazy scene. >> abel: it was an orgy. we got 30 people naked, it's 40 degrees out, and it was love at first sight. >> christina: and then she was born. very soon. >> anthony: wow. this is good. >> abel: the most beautiful thing in italy is every city you go to it's totally different cuisine. i mean, this is roman. all roman. >> abel: oh, there you are. hey. ciao, ciao. come say hello. this is tony. >> anthony: hi, ciao.

>> abel: i grew up in a southern italian family. >> anthony: catholic. >> abel: yeah. yeah. >> anthony: i mean, how catholic were you? >> abel: you'd have to get on your knees and say the rosary. you, like, when you're 6 years old, 7 years old. right? >> anthony: right. >> abel: and with the nuns walking back and forth beating the shit out of you for any reason, and even though some of them looked like angelina jolie, some of the nuns i had, actually. [ christina laughs ] >> anthony: okay, look, really? >> abel: there were some beauties -- >> anthony: is this, 'cause this was an issue i had with "bad lieutenant." the nuns were hot. i never saw any nuns that looked like that, okay? >> abel: no, no, no, no. >> nun: those boys, those sad, raging boys. >> christina: it's okay, it's okay, it's okay. it's okay. >> waiter: typical roman dish. >> anthony: typical roman dish, please. >> waiter: roman snails. >> anthony: snails? like, uh, the, from the sea? the whelk? >> waiter: no. >> anthony: no. or, no, the -- >> waiter: terra. >> anthony: oh, really? oh, man. this is serious. [ abel laughs ]

>> anthony: what's the best thing about this city? >> abel: everything you talked about. that when you bring a baby in he there's a love for life. the work, the art, the attitude, how to live. if i'm in a bad mood i'm negative, i'm down. okay? >> anthony: right. >> abel: then i walk out, i see this chick. see this chick here, lucia? okay? okay, i might be personally like, "i don't feel like going to the market." bah bah. this chick is running the market. she's, like, you know what i mean? i don't know how old she is, but you dig? and never, like, seeing you it's like, "wow. we're alive. we have this moment on earth." and that's part of the food. >> waiter: artichoke. >> anthony: artichoke. mm. oh man, that's amazing. >> abel: okay, when you care about the people you're feeding, you're gonna do it. people come in, you don't care, you don't know, it's just, "i'm just trying to make money." they're like, "i'll cook anything." these guys can't make bad food. >> anthony: right. >> abel: because they're caring about you eating. ♪

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♪ >> mussolini: i am very glad to be able to express my real feelings towards the american nation. my fellow citizens, who i work to make america great.

♪ >> anthony: traditional roman breakfast. cappuccino before 12:00, some say 11:00. definitely having this. oh, man. there's no dignified way to eat this. oh, that's good. i was unaware of this phenomenon previously. this "bomba" thing. i believe we call it a doughnut. to pasolini, it was the outskirts, the margins of rome that were interesting and

beautiful. the real rome. not the temples and monuments of a long-dead empire, a place where people struggled every day to live and to love. >> asia: grazie. >> anthony: i mean, you've been eating here for how long? >> asia: since i was a kid. i used to love it as a child, it's comforting. >> anthony: food the same, more or less? nothing changes? >> asia: always the same. yes, that's the thing. that's why i keep coming back. the grandma makes it. it's always her cooking. she cooks every time and she makes fettuccine fresh. >> anthony: rome is a city where you find the most extraordinary of pleasures in the most ordinary things. like this place, which i am not ever going to tell you the name of. asia's been coming here regularly forever. she brings her kids still, so i'm not gonna screw it up for her. >> anthony: oh, that's good. >> asia: that's good.

children's food. isn't it comforting? >> anthony: is it possible to look at rome in a non-cinematic way? i mean, it's a city that, kinda, demands it. >> asia: to me it's how to shoot it the way that it has never been shot. there's sides of rome that, pasolini, for instance, who wasn't from rome but would shoot here and he would do the suburbs and he had this real sense of the real rome. [ woman in film speaking italian ] >> asia: i went to the coliseum. >> anthony: oh, well, how often do new yorkers go to the empire state building? i mean -- >> asia: why would you go inside? >> anthony: yeah -- if i know. >> asia: 'cause it's, it's tall? >> anthony: i guess. so, we were talking before about that church with the paintings of martyrs, it's super violent. and you said something earlier interesting. you said, you know, in times of

trouble and stress, when people are afraid or angry, that people are in a buying mood. >> asia: yeah. you want people scared at home taping their windows so they become buyers. the church did something similar in the sense that if you have sinned, you have greatly sinned, only if you repent and you go there you will be forgiven. >> anthony: right. >> asia: you're scared. it's, like, kind of, the first horror movies of all time, the christian art. >> anthony: when people are scared -- >> asia: mm-hmm. >> anthony: they go running to the church, what about fascism? like, mussolini? what, what, what -- very popular man. >> asia: um, yeah. and people say, the romans, mussolini was a good man, hitler came and -- him up, but d good -- architecture, built things, and my grandma would say, "mussolini, a good-looking man."

she would say, like, and she would, like, you know, a real man. like, with a -- you know? like, something, a man, a manly man. >> anthony: right. right. >> asia: a manly man. mussolini was a manly man. >> anthony: so, you're not optimistic about the, the, >> anthony: so, you're not optimistic about the, the, the -- >> asia: optimistic? >> anthony: the political health of the world. >> asia: i don't even care. i don't vote. i never voted. >> anthony: really? >> asia: never once. i don't go in the news. i don't want to bring that stuff with me. that shit is poison. it's just, like, this italian way of, like, "let it go." you know? "as long as it doesn't bother me." and i am completely like that. like, i care about my neighborhood, my children, my building, you know? i care about that. that's a lot to care about already. ♪ afi sure had a lot on my mind. my 30-year marriage... ...my 3-month old business...

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♪ ♪ >> anthony: pick an autocratic ideology, german, italian or soviet, and you end up with structures like this. so, this was, i forget what it was in "the tenth victim." i thinit's a, it's a chase scene. >> asia: the runaway, yeah. he's running. yep. >> anthony: but in "the conformist," uh, it was an -- this was a mental institution. >> asia: yeah. [ man in film speaking italian ] >> anthony: i mean, the idea, as i understand it, was this was

gonna be a shining example of, you know, the new superman or the new fascist, uh -- >> asia: yeah. >> anthony: this is what fascism can do for the world's fair. i think that was the plan, and it, 20 years, celebrating 20 years of fascism, but it never happened. the war -- >> asia: the war broke before, and then after the war this neighborhood was overgrown by weeds and trees. it was forgotten. people wouldn't come here. it was shameful. they haven't bombed it as much as in berlin. they bombed everything else, but they, you know, this is still standing even though they, to this day they don't use it very much. >> anthony: do you have any family history here? what was, uh -- i always ask anytime i meet a german i always ask, i always think of what did they do, you know, during the war and i'm, you know, i always assume the worst. >> asia: my grandmother and her brother were the photographers of fascism. she made beautiful pictures, very much grandiose like this architecture. of muscular men, women, and, uh -- >> anthony: what do you think of

this style of architecture? >> asia: i think it's beautiful. i like the fact that it's called rationalist. but, grandiose, huge. >> anthony: i mean, this is, like, it looks just like lincoln center to me, i mean, in new york. it's the same, exactly the same style of architecture. it's indistinguishable. >> asia: so what are y trying to say? >> anthony: i'm saying what's the problem? >> asia: they're fascists? [ anthony laughs ] >> asia: if, uh, there's a little fascist inside in each one of you too. >> anthony: um, look, visit the states these days. it's, uh, it's coming back. it's big. >> asia: it's coming back in what sense? what is, uh -- >> anthony: i think we're looking, we're looking for a man on a horse to make everything better. >> asia: yes. but we always have. humans always have god figure, father figure that is going to tell you what to do. people, um, in italy, yeah, in rome, still love mussolini. >> anthony: what happened to mussolini again? as i recall, uh --

>> asia: oh, he got hanged upside down in milan, piazzale loreto, and everybody would go there and throw stones. >> anthony: what a turnaround. i mean, at one time is just so popular and then -- >> asia: that's what happens with all the idols. you know? you create them so you can destroy them. >> anthony: wow. ♪ >> asia: thank you for bringing me here. i don't think i've ever been or ever will come back. ♪ maybe for movies. ♪

♪ ♪ ♪

[ wind blowing ] ♪ ♪