>> that does it for me. be sure to tune into a new episode of anthony bourdain starting at 9:00. one last thank you to peter caplan who is now leaving cnn. thanks a lot, pete.

♪ ♪ ♪ i took a walk through this beautiful world ♪ ♪ felt the cool rain on my shoulder ♪ ♪ found something good in this beautiful world ♪ ♪ i felt the rain getting colder ♪ ♪ sha la la la la sha la la la la la ♪ ♪ sha la la la la sha la la la la la la ♪

>> anthony: los angeles, maybe the most-filmed, most-televised, most-looked-at place on earth. it's the landscape of our collective dreams. but what if we look at l.a. from the point of view of the largely unphotographed? the 47% of angelinos who don't show up so much on idiot sitcoms

and superhero films. the people doing much if not most of the hard work of getting things done in this town. one in ten angelinos are undocumented. one in ten. think about that number for a while. that's who's here now. contemplate if you will what would happen if anywhere near 10% of the workforce were no longer here. particularly since they're rather over-represented in those fields that most of us are in no hurry to enter. los angeles, like much of california, used to be part of mexico. now mexico, or a whole lot of

mexicans, are a vital part of us. >> anthony: raul hinojosa-ojeda is a professor of chicano studies at ucla. gish bac on washington blvd. serves specialties from the city tlacolula de matamoros in oaxaca, mexico. >> raul: so, bro, you know about tlacolula, right? i mean -- >> anthony: it's the market, isn't it? >> raul: tlacolula is this village, okay, in the middle of a valley. the oldest valley where agriculture was invented in the world. these people who live here lived there for about 10,000 years. so there's archeological evidence of the seeds actually being manipulated. >> anthony: all the way back to the farms? >> raul: all the way back there.

and there's where the core of the moles that we're going to eat tonight are from. >> anthony: the mole negro, or black mole, is an incredibly old and sophisticated near magical substance containing over 30 different ingredients. it's an old sauce from an old culture used as either a base to build a stew or as a sauce to pour over a meat. but unlike most sauces, the point of the mole is the mole itself. the flavor is unique. roasted, sweet, bitter, and spicy all at the same time. and deep. very, very deep. maria ramos is the owner and chef, the third-generation of a family of barbacoa specialist. barbacoa being the barbecuing of lamb and goat until it's falling-apart perfect. she started out cooking at age 10 at the sunday market in tlacolula. >> anthony: this family goes back a number of generations to that area. >> raul: exactly, and they got

here because they were migrant workers in the fields of l.a. and that's when they started working in the restaurants. >> anthony: this show will air long after the election. there is actually a national conversation now, unthinkable in my lifetime, where the notion of rounding up however many millions of undocumented workers in this country all at once or in short order and then kicking them all out. i mean, it seems unthinkable, but, i mean, you know, they said that in europe in the '30s. >> raul: i think from a military logistical point of view there's no way you're going to move the people out of california and out of los angeles. i mean, they tried that in 1954 with "operation wetback." mostly from the fields moving a million people out, right? >> anthony: and they did? >> raul: yes. >> anthony: and what happened? >> raul: well, first of all, a huge amount of u.s citizens were picked up one day and never came

home. and families were torn apart. and then the most ironic thing about it, the most tragic thing, is that the next couple of years they said, "you know, what we have to open the borders again to bring them all back." the problem was we never stopped wanting the workers. right, california is the number one agricultural state and approximately about 70% of the labor force is undocumented. >> anthony: stuff would rot in the fields to start with. >> raul: right. number one, who's growing it? >> anthony: because who's growing it, picking it, packing it, to a great extent processing it, cooking it. >> raul: and serving it, cleaning up after it. i mean, there would not only be no restaurant business, there would be the worst economic crisis in the history of california and the united states.

♪ >> anthony: estevan oriol is a respected and highly sought-after photographer and director known for his street portraits. he started his career as a nightclub bouncer, pivoting nicely to tour manager for cypress hill and house of pain, taking beautiful photographs along the way. now nearly 20 years later, he's famous for capturing perfectly both the glamour and grit of his hometown los angeles. mr. cartoon is a very famous tattoo artist and designer. cartoon began airbrushing t-shirts and lowriders before adopting and excelling at the legendary "fineline style" tattoo art. his work is sought after by the biggest names in the music industry and, well, anyone who loves truly superb skin art.

la reyna on east 7th, is a late-night thing down the street from where cartoon and estevan used to live. run by abigail and her team, the place serves mulitas -- not quite a taco, not a quesadilla -- more of a taco sandwich. first, the tortilla on the grill, then marinated meat, and cheese, then another tortilla, flip and serve. la renya is located in the downtown arts district right across the bridge from boyle heights, a working-class, densely packed neighborhood of about 100,000 residents. nearly 95% are mexican or central american. >> anthony: now how mexican is l.a? i mean, how deep was -- >> mr. cartoon: this was mexico, you know what i mean? >> anthony: yeah. >> mr. cartoon: all the names, i mean, all the people, i mean, it's -- you could go into certain parts of east l.a. in the harbor area, hollywood area, and see nothing but latinos.

a lot of other areas of l.a. are mixed, you know, but this side where we're at, if you go over that bridge, it's pretty much all mexican people. and l.a.'s mixed with salvadorian, guatemalan people, central america too, so they just get called mexicans anyways. you know, like, we're chicanos. we know we're from here. we know we were born here on this side of the line. our family relatives are from mexico, and we're proud of that, and we celebrate it our style. >> anthony: we live in unbelievable times right now. people are talking about mass deportations of mexicans. what's the problem here? where's does this fear and loathing come from? >> mr. cartoon: it's just racism is still alive and kicking in america, you know. we don't really hear it from the people we're around. we're around artistic, laidback people, you know. >> anthony: some idiot said, you know, "we've got to do something about this situation. all these mexicans come over, we're going to have a taco truck on every corner." and i'm thinking, "is this a bad thing?" >> estevan: where would all

these food trucks be, you know? there was only taco trucks ten years ago. >> anthony: it's the prototype. >> estevan: ten years ago there wasn't a an asian fusion truck here or this kind of truck, or this kind of truck, an indian food truck or this truck, you know? >> anthony: taco truck, i mean, you opened the door. >> estevan: we kicked the door down, yeah. >> anthony: look, white america loves mexican food, i mean, probably more than any other food at this point. they sure like cheap mexican labor, because they can't live without it. >> mr. cartoon: right. >> anthony: why are they so freaked out about mexicans? nobody's talking about building a wall across the canadian border. >> mr. cartoon: who's going to help them build the wall? you got to have some mexican power to do that. >> anthony: that's exactly what i thought.

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just overheard the guy's conversation, and he was finishing up his order, and the guy goes, "yo, bro, my mom told me not to eat the cilantro if it's from mexico because they're shitting in it to get back at trump." i said, "don't get me wrong, i'm all for a good trump takedown, but not sure if they've got that level of organization going on in the mexican cilantro field." lll "all right, everyone gather around. let's all start brainstorming. no idea is a bad idea. yes, crazy eddy." "okay, this a little outside the box, but i say we shit in the cilantro." lll all right, thank you very much, everyone. ppp >> anthony: how mexican is mexican?

how mexican can you be or should you be if you grew up in california with a mexican name and of mexican heritage? al madrigal is a comedian. gustavo arellano is the editor of the "oc weekly." we discuss such weighted matters over taquitos at cielito lindo on olvera street, which has been serving the kind of stuff that made americans fall in love with mexican food since the 1930s. beans with machaca, spicy shredded beef sauce and cheese. i believe they call these things a burrito. but what they're known for here is their taquitos. rolled up, fried, smothered in avocado sauce, jacked with chile guero, garlic, tomatillo and cilantro. >> anthony: oh yeah. oh, man, i'm loving this sauce already. >> gustavo: this is a legendary sauce going back to 1934. guacamole, you don't think it's

going to work, but it absolutely does. >> al madrigal: wow. >> gustavo: there's a little spice at the end. i love it. >> anthony: you're, by your own admission, you're a sorry excuse for a mexican. how's your spanish? not so good? >> al madrigal: my spanish is horrible. i've always been given a hard time about my spanish. >> gustavo: and that's okay. every mexican in history has always given shit to another mexican about their spanish. you don't know this lingo, you don't know this pronunciation, but, yeah, you should know spanish better. >> al madrigal: well, that's what i learned. this has been an age-old thing where everyone is trying to out-chicano each other and that i shouldn't feel that bad about it. >> anthony: what's that expression for a bad chicano? >> al madrigal: pocho. >> anthony: is there a literal translation there? >> gustavo: rotting. so if you say "pocho," you're basically saying you're a rotting mexican, you're completely fake, you've lost all your culture. therefore, you should be hated. >> anthony: that's harsh. >> gustavo: i know. >> anthony: when you hear, like, about rounding up mexicans left and right and sending them off to camps and putting them across the border -- scary, angry? or -- >> al madrigal: i actually think it's good.

i think latinos need this to rally together to -- it's like the world needs aliens to land and we'll actually come together. >> anthony: is there anybody who can rally all mexicans, you know? >> gustavo: like a spokesperson, yeah. >> anthony: no, like a mexican reagan. >> gustavo: the last big leader was cesar chavez, and that was, god what? 25 years ago at this point. i mean, you have to have a messianic figure. >> anthony: i have the answer. the answer >> gustavo: who? >> anthony: danny trejo. >> gustavo: danny trejo. people love him. >> anthony: danny trejo would be the man. he'd be that guy. >> gustavo: machete. >> al madrigal: machete for president? >> anthony: i would totally vote for him. >> al madrigal: he's ancient. >> anthony: he looks good with his shirt off. donald trump can't say that, clinton can't say that. danny trejo still peeling that shirt off. >> anthony: he's the baddest dude in the history of badass. look up "badass" in the dictionary, it says "trejo, danny trejo."

born in echo park in l.a, he spent much of his life in prison, including a stay in san quentin where he managed to straighten shit out join a 12-step program and rethink his life. he came out of the joint as a drug counselor. this lead directly, if unexpectedly, to a storied career in film. danny trejo is known and loved for iconic tough guy roles in such films as "heat", "from dusk till dawn", and "once upon a time in mexico." but he finally rose to action hero, leading-man status he always deserved playing machete. a character who grew out of the fake trailer from the robert rodriguez, quinten tarentino film "grindhouse", which soon became its own awesome and gore-heavy franchise. if you haven't seen "machete," it's follow-up, "machete kills", or soon-to-be-released "machete

in space", it's like missing the "citizen kane" of violent, family-friendly fun. trejo's cantina on cahuenga boulevard, because, of course. grand opening is still a few days away, but i thought since i'm in town i'd help advise danny on the new menu. give him the benefits of my tasting notes. and i've got to be honest, i was thinking, "how good could it be? can machete run a good restaurant, and why?" >> anthony: so we're going to see trejo's taco's all across america at some point. >> danny: that'd be awesome. taco truck on every corner. >> anthony: this is delicious. >> danny: awesome. >> anthony: on the menu tonight, jidori chicken with a chipotle cream sauce, some charred branzino with summer squash and sauteed with poblanos peppers and crispy pork tacos with black

garlic mole and some fat sacks of uni. and lots of healthy greens. >> anthony: why healthy? >> danny: because we have such an obese problem in the united states, especially latinos. so we had to find a way to make it tasty, but healthy. healthy food can taste good. >> anthony: clean, healthier, lighter, locally sourced versions of mexican street classics are not exactly what'd i'd expected and i sure as shit ain't making no rude cracks about vegan tacos, not to this man. though to be fair, danny trejo is like the nicest guy in the world. >> anthony: here's something i discovered that completely shocked and surprised me. so i have to ask you, are you a morrissey fan by any chance? >> danny: morrissey. >> anthony: like from this band the smiths, apparently it's like this british rock band of the late '80s that is apparently hugely popular in the chicano community. so you have not been touched by this --

>> danny: i'm going to tell you something right now between me and you. i listen to no music that came after 1968. i'm like a oldies guy, you know what i mean. >> anthony: i mean, your parents were born in texas. >> danny: yeah. >> anthony: but can you trace your people back to what area in mexico? >> danny: monterrey. my grandmother's grandfather was born in monterrey. >> anthony: can you speak spanish at home? >> danny: yeah, we spoke. i spoke spanish until i was about nine, ten and then usually you stop speaking spanish when you go to grammar school. especially in the '50s, because they wouldn't let you. no, no you don't speak spanish, you know, so you kind of forget. >> anthony: right. >> danny: but then when you start going to juvenile hall and jail, you pick it up again so the guards don't know what you're talking about. >> anthony: did you get into a 12-step in -- when you were still in prison or after? >> danny: while i was in prison. it was 1968. cinco de mayo 1968, that was

where i just kind of, like, made a vow, like, "i'm done." >> anthony: when you get out, you became a drug counselor. >> danny: i dedicated my life to helping other people. everything good that has happened to me has happened as a direct result of helping someone else. everything. >> anthony: well, for example, you were called to a film set to counsel somebody and you bump into, of all the people in the world, edward bunker. >> danny: eddie bunker. >> anthony: he's a legendary ex-con turned writer, and i guess screenwriter as well. >> danny: i knew eddie in prison, you see, so when he saw me, "what're you doing here?" i said, "i'm working with this kid." he asked me, "are you still boxing? because i held a lightweight and welterweight champion in every joint." i said, "i'm training. i still train, but i don't get hit in the face anymore." and he said, "we need somebody to train one of the actors how to box." >> anthony: the movie was the awesome "runaway train." trejo trained and fought against

the actor eric roberts, who along with jon voight, earned academy award nominations for the film. for danny, it was that start of a long and glorious career. he never looked back. >> danny: i'll never forget andrei konchalovsky the director, russian aristocrat, right? he says, "you fight eric in movie. you be my friend." now if you come out of the penitentiary and somebody says, "you be my friend," it's kind of a red flag. >> anthony: right. and how many films since then? a whole hell of a lot. >> danny: about 320 or something, you know what i mean? >> anthony: you moved from there to serious bad guys. >> danny: yeah. >> anthony: to now action hero franchise. how do you stay nice in a business basically full of [ bleep ]? >> danny: eddie bunker, the first time i started to get like a little recognition, he told me something. he said, "try to remember that the whole world can think you're a movie star, but you can't."

and i watch movie stars, right, i hate them. you know, nobody likes them. and if you're on a movie set and the movie star comes in and after he leaves and everybody talks, "that guy's an ass. i hate that guy. man, he's rude." so i don't want to be that guy. >> anthony: right. >> danny: you know what i mean? >> anthony: one of the things i learned making television really early on, if like you show up to shoot and the people, like, with the cameras, as in the crew, and they say, "oh, the talent is on set," what they really mean is that the [ bleep ] is on set. if someone calls me "the talent" or refers to me as "the talent," it's time to go back and take a long look in the mirror, right? tame frizz-prone hair with smoothing care. whole blends by garnier. smoothing haircare with coconut oil and cocoa butter extracts. for naturally beautiful, shiny hair. coconut oil and cocoa butter formulas from garnier whole blends. over six million women have found their blend. find yours. over six million women have found their blend. "how to win at business." step one: point decisively with the arm of your glasses.

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♪ ♪ >> anthony: they ain't from l.a., but from time to time you'll find them here. and when you do, you best play nice.

gilbert melendez, nick diaz, and nate diaz three of the greatest mixed martial artists to fight in the octagon. gilbert holds the distinction of being one of the few mma fighters being ranked number one in the world in two weight classes. nate, and his older brother, nick, are both vicious strikers and grapplers and about as tough as it gets in a professional setting or on the street. neither particularly likes to fight, they said, but should the situation call for it, well, let's put it this way, they will. nick and nate grew up in stockton and still live there and train there. connor mcgregor mocked nate for teaching kid's jui-jitsu in his hometown. that was before nate chased him around the octagon like a little deer in his last close decision.

in one of the greatest fights in ufc history, nate diaz shocked the world when on very short notice he stepped in and submitted mcgregor in two rounds. he lost the second bout by decision, but there will surely be a third. and no matter what happens, nate diaz always brings it. mariscos chente on south centinela. >> anthony: what did you eat growing up? like, in your house when you were little kids, what kind of food did you eat? what's lunch? >> nate: macaroni and cheese and hot dogs. >> nick: yeah, hot dogs right. that was basically it, top ramen. >> anthony: hot dogs, mac and cheese? >> nick: some ghetto juice. >> anthony: what about you? >> gilbert: rice and beans and some sort of mexican dish, some sort of protein with it and everything, you know? i'm not vegetarian, but i

learned a lot from them though. >> nick: i was pretty much vegan for years really. >> anthony: even as a kid? no -- >> nick: like, i stopped eating land animals period. like, i've been vegetarian eating seafood on and off, but i've been vegetarian since i was like 18 years old. i would just be better cut in weight when i would go on a vegetarian diet. i'd end up, you know, nice and light, and then i'd get stronger. and then once he started fighting pro, too, i think he started doing the same type of thing. >> anthony: when you eat in l.a., if you're going out for food, what are you going out for asian? you're going out for pad thai? >> nick: good food's pretty convenient around here, of course. >> nate: i go to venice beach. i go to cafe gratitude. and that's a really good place. >> anthony: what do you eat there? >> nate: they have vegan, and vegetarian. >> anthony: i get off the plane, i go right to in-n-out burger and the last thing i do when i'm in town is i stop at in-n-out burger. that stuff is like crack for me. i've got to have it.

so good. >> anthony: mariscos chente serves shrimp -- lots and lots of shrimp. the house special, camarones borrachos, or drunken shrimp. sautéed in butter and garlic over a high heat, add cilantro and crushed peppers and finish in tequila. ♪ >> anthony: so when was your first fight? like, in school, like what grade? >> nate: first. >> anthony: first grade, no? >> nate: yeah, my first fight, right? one time i was in the 6th grade and i went down to the baseball field. i'm waiting for a foul ball because when you catch a foul ball you get a free soda or a bag of chips or something, and i got the ball and one of the baseball players was mad because a littler kid was trying to run up and get it. he was like, "what's up? why didn't you let him get the ball?"

i was like, "shut up, i've been waiting all day for this ball, you know." what i'm saying, i was a little kid. he was trying to get into a fight with me. i'm with these guys and they're all hardcore. i'm in my head, like, "man, why they going to make me fight this guy?" because we -- in my head, right, i'm like, "man, they're making me fight this guy." and we're like going at it and i've never been punched in my face so many times in my life. i was a little kid. >> nick: he would swing kind of wide back in the day. >> nate: why were they making me fight, that was the main -- "why you making me fight this guy?" ♪ ♪ (vo) you can pass down a subaru forester. (dad) she's all yours. (vo) but you get to keep the memories. love. it's what makes a subaru, a subaru.

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♪ >> anthony: street tacos are a not guilty at all pleasure for me, something of an obsession. they always make me happy. but mexican food has been redefining itself in significant ways for years. here and in mexico. across the city, young and extremely talented chefs are taking mexican traditions to the next level and beyond. maybe the most exciting new frontier of modern cooking. chef ray garcia, a native angelino, is one of those pioneers. located in the heart of downtown is broken spanish -- a higher-end, higher-priced mexican restaurant than most are accustomed to. chef eddie ruiz and robin chopra

are childhood friends who opened up the wonderful, but short-lived alta californian gastropub, corazon y miel, which put them both on the map in l.a.'s bourgeoning modern mexican dining scene. >> anthony: i absolutely believe that the next big thing is the re-evaluation of mexican flavors and ingredients and a re-evaluation of how much you should pay. i mean, people love it, but they're expectation is mexican food should be cheap. and the fact ithere's always going to be new arrivals from mexico who are perfectly willing to sell you, unfortunately or fortunately, really good mexican food for very cheap, but not the kind of deep flavors that, you know, that you find or i found in my travels there. >> eddie: well, sometimes in the mexican world the only thing that's passed down, it's not a home, it's not a necklace. what it is, is a recipe passed down from generation to generation. it all comes from these rustic dishes that our grandmothers and

grandfathers cooked for us. >> anthony: do you have any responsibility to preserve and protect the traditional flavors and ingredients of mexico or do you -- or not? >> eddie: yeah, of course. everything that you see here in front of you is inspired by something that we had as a child, but how do we present that with our training and how do we present that with our experience that's going to give people value to want to pay more for it? >> robin: i think los angeles is kind of a stage for that next level and chef ray is doing a really good job of that. he's presenting stuff like this, and that's what's going to elevate people's mindset in terms of what you can do with this food. >> anthony: chicharron, skin on pork, curred and salted, cooked sous-vide for 36 hours, then deep fried and served with elephant garlic mojo and raddish sprouts. tamales, a slow-cooked lamb neck with oyster mushrooms and queso

oaxaco. camote, an okinawan sweet potato with pork. the ears, tail and snout, topped with a drizzle of pilancillo syrup. >> chef ray: i've got one more present for you guys here. a little pre-dessert. eddie, i know it's your favorite, eddie. >> eddie: it's my favorite. >> chef ray: we have the foie gras rebanada here, so it's sort of like a pre-dessert. it's sort of my take on a very traditional and simple mexican pan dulce, which is like a brioche with butter and sugar, which is the basic pan dulce. this one we've got foie gras in our butter. we've kind of upped the ante a little bit. and then some piloncillo. >> anthony: great, thank you. man, i am loving this meal big time. >> chef ray: thank you so much. thank you. >> eddie: this is the most nostalgic dish i've ever had at a restaurant in los angeles. in mexican panaderias, this is called areva nada. nothing says my childhood like this dish right here.

>> anthony: i've worked in french and italian restaurants my whole career, but, i mean, really if i think about it, they were mexican restaurants and ecuadorian restaurants, because the majority of the cooks and the people working with me were from those countries. that's who picked me up when i fell down, who showed me what to do when i walked in and didn't know anything and nobody knew my name. >> eddie: right, it's just the way our culture is. we're so family-oriented that that's what matters to us. at the same time, i feel like our jobs as chefs is to bring in our unique latin american experience to dining, family, tradition, food, culture. and l.a. is the heart of that. it really is. and hopefully that resonates throughout the rest of the country.

so that's the idea. what do you think? hate to play devil's advocate but... i kind of feel like it's a game changer. i wouldn't go that far. are you there? he's probably on mute. yeah... gary won't like it. why? because he's gary. (phone rinng) ep going! yeah... (laughs) (voice on phone) it's not millennial enough. there are a lot of ways to say no. thank you so much. thank you! so we're doing it. yes! start saying yes to your company's best ideas. let us help with money and know-how, so you can get business done. american express open.

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>> anthony: gang violence has been a part of l.a.'s story for the better part of a century now. also part of this story, police corruption, and brutality. former police officer alex salazaar was a bad cop. by his own admission, very bad. like a lot of once-good police, the streets changed him. he saw a lot of ugliness, the

lines became blurred, the job ground him down and he crossed the line, repeatedly. >> alex: to quote nietzsche, "those who chase monsters need to be careful that they don't become monsters." i thought i was going to arrest the bad guys. i never thought i would become a bad guy myself. >> anthony: did you become a bad guy? >> alex: oh, i did, yes. >> anthony: how bad? >> alex: i became very aggressive, and beating people, losing control, and using excessive force when there wasn't really any need for me to do that. i mean, i worked the most infamous police station ever known. it was called rampart. won best picture for denzel washington for his portrayal of this really bad police officer. >> denzel: "i'm the police. i run shit here. you just live here." >> anthony: was that an understatement? were there cops that bad? >> alex: yes, there were. yes, there were. i was one of them. the problem was very systemic. we don't have so much that

problem anymore. it does happen. >> anthony: this is not a nature of the job, when you're asked to everyday go in and look at people at their most desperate and ugly that you become desensitized and maybe even turn into a monster. >> alex: just think about it. everyday they're looking at the worst of society and maybe they have a partner that gets killed or shot. it's all very overwhelming. many turn to alcohol and drugs to medicate. and i'm not trying to be an apologist for the police, because you know, they do need to be held accountable. but we need to help them, we really do because they are out there and they're the ones who are going to show up at your home. >> anthony: mexican-american, living in east l.a. and a victim of a crime, you calling the police? expecting a sympathetic response, i mean, generally speaking, what do you think the -- ? >> alex: i think most police

officers show up being ready to help out, they certainly have to do their job. >> anthony: but what do you think the victim thinks when they place a phone call? do you think they have high hopes that i believe my call is going to be handled with the same fervor as somebody calling from beverly hills. >> alex: well, there are good officers that come in and they do help. there's also many who lose that empathetic feeling of looking at someone with brown skin or very dark skin and they say, "you know, why am i helping out this person? it's a stupid mexican." and i saw that being projected upon these people who all they wanted was help. ♪

>> anthony: elisa sol garcia grew up in boyle heights and is no stranger to the challenges facing the latino community. the boyle heights running club started as a safety-in-numbers project. the small group of community members started running the bridges of boyle heights, making their presence known and simply by being there, by being a presence, taking their streets back from the gangs and the criminals who too often are the default company in a one company neighborhood. ♪ >> anthony: tacos indiana street cart on 4th and clarence st. what are you guys having? >> elisa: i'm going to do asada. >> rolando cruz: you're going to do asada? >> anthony: frequented by elisa and fellow running club member

rolie cruz. carne asada, the slow-grilled marinated beef classic served as a burrito with rice and beans, or simply on a tortilla as a taco. tacos lengua, beef tongue braised with garlic and onions. and tacos el pastor, stacked guajillo chile-rubbed pork shoulder sliced with your choice of toppings. cheap, yet supremely satisfying sweet taco trucks like this one has served the latino community of boyle heights well for years. but the neighborhood is changing. let's say diversifying. >> anthony: you know, first comes the coffee shops, a couple of smart, hip restaurants, hipsters arrive, rents go up. how do you stop that? >> elisa: well, that's what you explained in a nutshell is what has been going on throughout los angeles.

the gentrification of downtown, it's spreading here. and in a neighborhood like this, gentrification, not to be dramatic, but the population of families that are homeless is growing. little by little, like, the block is disappearing whether it's deportation, whether it's gentrification, you know, it's barely now coming to the forefront, but for the people that live and work here every day, it's been the reality. there's a lot of struggles here that if you're going to be a part of this community, like, you have to recognize that struggle. >> rolando cruz: i think that the reality though is that l.a. is always changing, right? so, like, we are in the battle of l.a. who's going to win in this is yet to be determined, but the fight is still going to go on. ♪ >> head to the all new explore parts unknown.com.

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♪ >> anthony: there has been since the beginning a tradition of mexican rock and roll with its own unique sound. ritchie valens, sam the sham and the pharaohs, cannibal and the headhunters, los cruzados and question mark and the mysterians. it should come as no surprise that rockabilly is enjoining a resurgence of sorts in the chicano community. ♪

>> anthony: there is a long and glorious tradition of chicano rock, garage and punk boiling away under and over the surface for years, and egregiously over looked. ♪ but what is it with the morrissey thing? what is it about morrissey? the irish singer via england that sang melancholic pathos-filled ballads that were a backdrop for a million post-breakups during the '80s that so speaks to the chicano soul? i asked musicians and concert promoters oscar arguello and albert gambea. oscar thrives in the rockabilly world, while albert is all things punk. >> anthony: what's up with the morrissey thing? apparently in the chicano community morrissey is, like, huge. >> albert: it's a matter of the heart, man.

>> anthony: why out of all the bands in the world did morrissey and the smiths resonate in this community? >> oscar: there was a convergence of music and people that did not connect to what was being said. he connected with his lyrics and i think everything was going so pop and so mainstream and he was the alternative to that, and i think there is a lyrical element to his words that resonated with the latino community. >> anthony: and people said that his lyrics, his songs, resonated with traditional mariachi in that sense that -- >> oscar: right. >> anthony: the songs are so much about finding something beautiful or even funny about getting relentlessly [ bleep ] over and having shit go wrong, i mean. >> elisa: i think morrissey

really speaks. you know, it's so odd, he's this white guy -- about displacement and this longing for a mythic home. you know, because when i go to mexico, i'm like a sore thumb there. you know, my spanish is horrible, the way i dress, the way i talk, but there's just something about it like morrissey really articulates that experience. in terms of an immigrant. he is irish. you know, he feels displaced. >> man wearing morrissey shirt: irish blood, english heart, this i'm made of. >> albert: this is the thing about being a mexican in the states. you're never white enough for this country, and you're never brown enough for mexico. >> oscar: there is a big issue about that, pocho, and all that. but i know that we are californians, inherently, and i am los angeles. >> man wearing morrissey shirt: i've been dreaming of a time when to be english is not to be baneful. to be standing by the flag not

feeling shameful, racist or partial. forever. ♪ ♪ ♪