around here look and see. a region that's one of the most beautiful places in the country, full of people just looking to be a part of the evolution of this nation and not forgotten because of it. ♪ ♪ ♪

♪ ♪ i took a walk through this beautiful world felt the cool rain ♪ ♪ on my shoulder ♪ found something good ♪ in this beautiful world i felt the rain getting colder ♪ sha la la la la

sha la la la la la sha la la la la sha la la la la la ♪ ♪ ♪ anthony: everything old is new again, maybe not. i come close sometimes to believing nothing actually ever changes. back in the beginning, fresh out of the kitchen when i first went out into the world to figure out how to make television, i came to northern portugal. little did i know what i would find.

up until then, for 30 years, spent working in kitchens, meat had come wrapped in plastic. i'd order it in boxes. i had never seen an animal die because i was making dinner. >> anthony: hi, how are you guys doing? >> anthony: all right, ciao.

oh man, had to call the crisis center. >> anthony: portugal, sandwiched between spain and the atlantic ocean, and tiny as countries go, has had an outsized impact on the world. during the age of discovery the portuguese went to sea in great numbers, gained fame as navigators, ship builders, explorers. they conquered a large part of the world. their empire stretching from brazil to africa to the east indies. the city of oporto is a reflection and a creation of that relationship with the sea. a lot has changed since i was

last here, or has it? ♪ ♪ when i decided to return to take another look at this place, of course i reached out to jose de meirelles, my old boss and first entrée to portugal. >> anthony: you're good? >> jose: it's nice to see you. >> anthony: it's been a long, long time. >> anthony: jose is from the area around oporto, and this time just like back then he said, come see my country, and meet my family. we'll do a pig feast. >> anthony: 16 years later, i came here in 2001, one of the television, and here we are n again. there are only so many beautiful places left in the world. oporto is one of them, gorgeous.

has it changed too much? >> jose: ehh, special big cities, especially oporto, it's changed a lot. it was never a tourist town. now it's packed with tourists. >> anthony: so is that good news or bad news? >> jose: it's good news, it's good. i mean it's good for the economy, especially if you came up during the financial crisis and all that. so, it was a great help for the city. >> anthony: i mean it looks even prettier than it looked last time. they seemed to have fixed up a lot of buildings. >> jose: because this downtown area, historically oporto was completely degraded. old buildings collapsing with the flux of tourist a lot of people invested, and they started fixing it. ♪ >> anthony: so what are we eating here. this is supposed to be a -- >> jose: you know actually we're going to start with patinhas, those are small sardines. >> anthony: you eat everything, the bones, you eat the whole thing. >> jose: everything. you can eat 1,000 of them and the plate is empty and that's a

good thing nobody can see how many we eat. you ready for the tripes? >> anthony: yes! >> jose: ahh, so let's go. the tripes is the iconic dish of oporto. >> anthony: tripieros right? >> jose: tripas, that's trip people. >> anthony: why? >> jose: there were a couple of stories, the more historical one i guess, henry the navigator at one point he was putting an armada of ships to go ceuta. the people from oporto gave them all the meat they had. >> anthony: so they were left with just the tripe. cheap food for the sailors, that would last a long time. >> jose: usually it's on thursday, that's the day with the tripes. because being a catholic country on friday, they skip the meat. >> anthony: a meal here is, generally speaking anyway, not light. the portuguese like pork. they like it a lot. >> anthony: so sausage, bacon -- >> jose: sausage, pigs ear -- >> anthony: cured pigs ear. what do you do when left with nothing but guts and hooves and odd bits?

>> jose: you add the tripes in, some beans. >> anthony: figure out how to transform that into delicious, delicious things of course. oh wow, look at that. oh, it's fantastic. >> jose: smells delicious. >> anthony: yes, it does. should i put a little rice on the side there to mop it up? >> jose: yeah, yeah. >> anthony: mm, that is good. ♪ ♪ >> jose: older vintage, 1983 or somethg like this. >> anthony: i mean it's sort of incredible the story of the wines here. i hear because the soil is so tough, flint and stone that the

vines have to dig up to 30 meters down? that's a lot. i think it gives the wine a special character. northern portugal's duro valley is where port comes from. if it's not from here, it's not port, it's just fortified wine. ♪ and i don't usually do wine scenes, no matter how good the wine. on camera, it's just colored liquid going into a glass. wine nerds usually bore me. don't talk about your damn wine, drink it. but i absolutely love cheese served with a glass of port wine, and that's what most people, including my new friend andre, that's what they do around here.

i'm not a dessert guy, but nice blue cheese with a glass of port for me is like the perfect thing to end a meal with. unlike wine, cheese porn is easy, just like shooting actual porn. start with an establishing shot, move in for a close -- oh yeah, there we go. cut away to a reaction. money, works every time. oh, that's -- it's delicious. what kind of cheeses are we looking at here? >> andre: these over here are goat cheese. they're aged ones. then all of the other are sheep milk. this is worldly known quiejo da serra, so the buttery one. this is what we call quiejo azeitão. it's strong, intense to your palate. >> anthony: oh, i like this guy already. any cheese that you need a spoon pretty much to -- >> andre: oh, then smell it. for me, the worse the smell, the better the flavor. ah, you like it? >> anthony: smells like dirty feet, tastes like heaven. >> andre: this is a port.

>> anthony: oh that's delicious. >> andre: put a little bit of that on there with some pumpkin jam on top. >> anthony: if i put on my speedo and dive into this thing, please stop me. >> andre: oh, no no no. >> anthony: before i completely face plant. >> andre: i love portuguese gastronomy. the heart and soul of it is simplicity. look that's the thing that makes me fall in lovwith it every single day. >> anthony: cheese is one of thosthings, it's aays magic to me because it goes into the

cave one way, and the moment you pull it out. i don't believe in god, but somehow it went in like that and came out like this. >> andre: relying on time to cut its way through it, and to change this, change the texture, even the smell, and we have nothing to do with that other than enjoying it. ♪

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♪ >> anthony: portugal has got a lot of coastline and a lot of history with the sea. it's a close relationship, one that's imprinted deep into the national character. the songs, the poetry, the state of mind. i love this word saudade. [ singing in portuguese ] >> jose: saudade means missing something, nostalgic. >> anthony: a word with no direct translation to english, it connotes longing, being away from something, and yearning to get back. >> jose: the portuguese went out of the country for years at sea, and it is not known when he is going to go back to his family.

♪ >> anthony: during the cold, gray months, it's lamprey season. oh, hell yeah. so i'm here at just the right time. what do you call this dish in portuguese? it's lamprey eel? >> ricardo: yeah, lamprey bordelaise. >> anthony: awesome. lamprey are butt ugly damn creatures, but delicious when cooked right, and my man pedro knows how to cook it right. very traditional, cooked in its own blood. >> ricardo: yeah, its bordelaise style, when it's bordelaise it means it has the blood. >> anthony: mm, it's good. it's fantastic.

>> ricardo: the saudade is going back to a moment when you were happy. it doesn't matter if was through food, through sex, through whatever. >> anthony: you're making me sad already thinking about this. >> ricardo: no, but that's not sad. come on. >> anthony: i'm getting depressed. yes, thinking about happy times that i can't have right now. >> ricardo: there's a hope in the future that that's going to happen because there's also a part of -- >> anthony: no. >> ricardo: yeah, i see it like that. if you don't see it, that's your problem. >> anthony: the portuguese were the original navigators. it was about the sea, fishing, exploration.

>> anthony: ah, question i went to the fish market, i met these women who sell fish there and they were saying terrible, terrible things to me. they were saying hey pin dick, you know how do you satisfy your wife with that tiny little penis? my god, i never in my life heard women, anybody speak like this. >> pedro: that's typical from the fishwives. >> anthony: this is what i'm going to get? >> ricardo: yeah, nasty approaches about your penis and your height, yeah. ♪

♪ ♪ ♪ >> anthony: i'm tony, hi. >> sofia: i'm sofia. >> anthony: sofia.

>> joana: i'm joana. nice to meet you. >> anthony: good to meet you both. those who know me even a little bit are familiar with my unholy attraction to the mutant hotdog. is it actually called a hotdog here or is it called -- >> sofia: here we call it quiosque. >> anthony: quiosque. >> sofia: toasted bread, fresh sausage. >> anthony: fresh pork sausage. >> sofia: and a cheese and spicy sauce. >> anthony: and spicy sauce? >> joana: and cut in a very specific way. >> anthony: wow, i really -- fast knife work. >> sofia: he's asking if you want fork and knife. no we can eat it with our hands. >> anthony: this is delicious. >> joana: this is very healthy too. >> anthony: yeah, i'm not so sure about that. they're busy. >> sofia: yeah, they're always busy. it's a small place and you can see it's just portuguese, it's

just locals. >> anthony: right. how many places like this in town? >> joana: nowadays, not many. >> anthony: now you guys own a tavern? >> sofia: yes. >> anthony: how's employment in portugal now? >> joana: there's a lot of unemployment here. >> sofia: there's a lot of people like that. >> anthony: do you get a lot of people with degrees? you know, higher degrees who are opening restaurants in -- >> joana: yeah, she has a degree in psychology, and i have the degree in sociology. and everyone who is working with us, they have a degree or they are finishing. >> anthony: i might have to have another. that was good.

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>> anthony: the city seems to have been preserved carefully and with respect for the past. i don't see a lot of high rise buildingbreaking up the skyline. >> ricardo: we are still very authentic. we don't sell out very easily. >> anthony: i mean i was in a relatively poor neighborhood a couple of nights ago just walking around. and somebody said "you could buy that apartment building right there for $50,000" and i said "okay good deal, but you can't touch the exterior." >> ricardo: yeah, no. >> anthony: this is the fishing import area of porto yes? >> ricardo: and it's called matosinhos. the fishing boats just arrived, and the market is just two streets away from there. >> anthony: okay. >> ricardo: oh, my god. >> anthony: seafood tower,

bitches. all right then. okay not a tower precisely, but a whole heap of incredible creatures from the sea. coastal shrimp, local oysters, and crab, sea urchin, langoustines, gooseneck barnacles. this i'm very excited by. so dangerous to get these. >> ricardo: yeah, it's not the thing you get from the hulls of the boats, but from rocks. >> anthony: and you have to get it in between waves quickly. whelks. >> ricardo:[ speaks portuguese ] >> anthony: oh, there we go. mm, insane. >> ricardo: the one thing that i don't like with food is sauce. >> anthony: yeah, i don't need it. this is all perfect. what did they do to it? they steamed it, some of it. the rest is raw. i mean, it's not like this is fancy cooking. ♪ mm, this crab is like a rubik's

cube trying to figure my way into here. oh, okay i found it. >> ricardo: this is the thing that gets you back to your roots. you don't have to use your hands. you don't have to be polite. ♪ >> anthony: these little shrimp, the brains are really good too. sea urchin. fat sacks of roe buried deep inside these prickly exteriors. >> ricardo: when i was a kid, i went with my father to get this, and it was nasty, but also very good. it's funny, a lot of these things that we see here were used as fertilizer. >> anthony: in the years before independence, in massachusetts, lobster was seen as a pest. only people who used them regularly was the prison system. the prisoners rioted because they said this is cruel and

unusual punishment. how many lobster are we going to get? it's monstrous. ♪ nobody knows who first salt baked a fish. maybe it was jesus. oh, wow. scale and gut your fish, in this case a sea bass, insert lemon and onion, then pack it in salt and bake. light the whole thing on fire tableside and break open. the salt acts as a protective crust sealing in all the moisture and flavor. now that looks beautiful. that's just perfect. mm, clams cooked portuguese style. >> ricardo: yeah. >> anthony: so tender and sweet and delicious. why do you think portuguese food has not had a higher profile internationally? >> ricardo: well, for me it's

real easy for me to say this. it's basically, it's your fault. >> anthony: our fault!? >> ricardo: it's america's fault, yeah. >> anthony: why? >> ricardo: the american culture embraced spain, anembraced ity, and embraced france. it didn't embrace portugal because i don't know. if we have a civil war so popular like the spanish had and hemingway came to portugal instead of spain, we'd be a different country. >> anthony: you know you think of italy, you think of romance. >> ricardo: but we are romantic. >> anthony: i know. >> ricardo: we are the most romantic country in the world. after a couple of meals in porto, you're going to feel the saudade in your heart and soul. >> anthony: man, good meal. oh wait, what there's more clams? right over here, my friend. ♪ [ intense music playing ] it's here, but it's going by fast. the opportunity of the year is back:

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>> anthony: contrary to what some may say, i do not enjoy seeing the death of any living thing. i do not promote animal cruelty. [ man speaking portuguese ] >> jose: ah, ready to go. >> anthony: yup. >> jose: kill the pig, kill the pig, kill the pig. >> anthony: but i think people should know where meat comes from. and knowing, they should feel free to decide what they want to do from there. >> anthony: it's the least you can do. >> jose: exactly. >> anthony: here, right here on jose's family farm is where i saw my first animal die.

a pig, too, this after years and decades of being a chef, serving meat, ordering up my death over the phone at a comfortable distance. up close, it was not so comfortable. >> anthony: i think he's starting to get the bad news. >> jose: and that's their dna, they know what's going to happen, and they know -- >> anthony: they know it's coming. yeah well, the pigs are smart. >> jose: and sometimes they manage to run away. >> anthony: to do the job right, professionals are brought in and they do it like this because -- how shall i put it, they need the heart to keep pumping the blood into the pale, for sausage and soup, and many delicious things. we all come to this in the end, whether struggling for air in our beds, bleeding out on cold concrete, a last mighty dump like elvis. or this.

>> jose: oh there are the >> jose: oh there are the firecrackers. that's the start of any festivities you go to, is the firecrackers. >> anthony: as befitting tradition in the way things are done, this is a once in a year event. for two days, extended family, friends, and neighbors gather to cook, cure, and eat a pig. time for a haircut? >> jose: yeah, haircut. >> anthony: old school. >> jose: they finish up with the blowtorch. >> anthony: as one must. ♪

>> jose: they start singing. we call -- that everyone makes his own verses and the other person must respond. >> anthony: so they're like rappers. >> jose: yeah, that's it. >> anthony: freestyle. ♪ ♪ >> jose: so now they're going to finish up and take all the guts out, the heart, liver. >> anthony: then it's lunch. >> jose: lunch time. >> man in cream sweater: in portugal we used to say if you want to know our body, we have to kill a pig because it's absolutely the same.

the organs are placed on the same disposition. you see the liver there and the heart. you've got the tongue there too. >> anthony: ah, it's all in a package. all the good stuff. look it's a lung. he's good. >> jose: yeah he really knows what he's doing. >> anthony: i would say a surgeon, but he's faster than a surgeon. ♪ guts removed the liver and heart are used today, cooked immediately. ah, this is the best, the heart. >> man in cream sweater: it's like a tender sirloin. it's so good. >> anthony: it's so good. the intestine washed and reserved for sausage casing. >> jose: that's the pork intestine. they fill with some kind of cornmeal. >> anthony: mm, it's nice. the rest is left to hang until tomorrow, where we shall feast again. >> jose: tony this is -- that's a special part of the pork fat. >> anthony: ah, it's like chicharon.

oh, wow. >> jose: is that the potatoes with the blood? >> anthony: oh, that's kind of perfect. mm. >> man in white button shirt: not all of the countries eat all the meat of the pork. in here, we eat everything. >> jose: my parents, they always kept a reminder when i was growing up of them during the second world war there was nothing to eat. they don't waste anything. ♪ ♪

thank you is what we say. but we mean so much more. we mean how can we help? we mean what can we do? we mean it's our turn. to do our part. to serve you, for all you've done to serve us. ♪ ♪sweet, sweet st. thomas nice. ♪ so nice, so nice. ♪st. croix full of pure vibes. ♪ so nice, so nice. ♪ st. john a real paradise.

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♪ >> woman in blue dress: [ singing in portuguese ]

♪ >> anthony: fado, the national music of portugal. song of longing, heartbreak, saudaude set to music. ♪ >> jose: my good friend, anthony, besides other things, he also sings fado. >> man with blue collar: anthony everybody in portugal thinks that they sing fado. we the portuguese think that the fado is not the perfection, the ability, the fine tuning. it's emotion, so everybody is allowed to sing. yeah, that's why jose is telling everyone that i sing fado. >> anthony: oh, i see.

>> man with blue collar: normally the guys that sing fado are very happy guys, but when they begin to sing, they turn into sad guys. i don't know why. >> anthony: well, you said the portuguese are bipolar. >> man with blue collar: yes, yes, they are. jose: so wee ready to eat, i think? big enough table? ♪ >> anthony: the home of jose's ancestors for centuries, much of their original estate still in family hands. >> jose: we're going to start with the famous blood soup. it's called papa sarrabulho. >> anthony: very exciting. jose's mother maria is in charge today's. she's preparing a feast of rustic portuguese soul food. >> jose: so it's all little small pieces of meat. usually the bony part, the tradition comes, they cannot scrap no bones, and they need to use every single piece.

they boil the bones out, then they finish with the blood so. blood and bread. >> anthony: blood and bread? mm, beautiful. so good. >> jose: let's go to the cozido i'm going to show you the -- you should eat. ♪ >> anthony: the main event, cozido, a glorious stew of seemingly every last part of the pig. >> jose: i'm going to give you some of the pernil that is the snout meat. spare ribs. >> anthony: nothing goes to waste around here. >> jose: blood sausage, cabbage. >> anthony: oh, what's that? >> jose: that's the bexiga. it's the pigs bladder that's stuffed with pork belly, spare ribs, and then smoked. >> anthony: wow, look at that. extraordinary.

>> man in green sweater: and one thing is you don't feel that guilty when you're eating this because it's only just boiled, not fried, not -- >> anthony: no, i don't feel guilty. ah, it's fantastic, superb. wonderful, thank you. jose, what's left of the pig? a couple of hams and not much else. >> jose: well everything is on salt right now. >> anthony: so the shoulders and the legs are in salt? >> jose: they're on salt. they're going to be in salt for about one month, and then they're going to be smoked and going to be prosciutto. >> man in blue sweater: and they are fantastic. >> jose: so you spoke about fado and sadness, but you know, after a few drinks, everybody gets very happy. you knowwithine -- it means witwine happiness. ♪

♪ ♪ ♪

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♪ ♪ >> anthony: cheers!

now it's kind of funny, francesinha, which translates as little frencgibut i understand she's not so little. >> all: no! >> sofia: it's your first time? francesinha? >> anthony: it is. >> joanna: really? >> anthony: you have this look on your face like you look worried. >> joanna: good luck. >> anthony: it's going to be okay right? woah, here we go. good lord, look at that thing. is there a vegetable in there? >> sofia: only meat. >> anthony: oh, my god, it weighs like a ton. ♪ so it's bread, ham, steak. >> andre: sausage and a bit of linguiça. >> sofia: and then the sauces. many things like beer, port

wine, spicy, tomato. >> anthony: cheese? >> andre: a lot of cheese. >> anthony: wow, what a construction. meat, cheese, fat and bread, it's an immortal combination. >> andre: yeah, it's the ultimate solution for hangover or too much port. >> anthony: that is delicious. oh, that's good. >> andre: it's really, really good. >> anthony: are there a lot of places making this? a lot. >> joanna: everyone does. >> anthony: and this is a porto thing specifically? >> sofia: yes. >> anthony: what's the relative rate per capita of heart related diseases in this country, i'm just curious. >> sofia: it depends on how many francesinha you have. ♪

♪ [speaking foreign language]

>> anthony: everything old is new again, maybe not. i come close sometimes to believing nothing actually ever changes. that we are trapped in our destiny, hurdling, or limping or being dragged towards the inevitable. that saudade refers not to a long lost place, but a long lost time when we were all young and innocent. >> andre: saudade can help you value things. be grateful for just the sunset, enjoy that, smile. >> anthony: enjoy it now. >> andre: yes. >> anthony: because tomorrow we die. >> andre: you will never know. ♪

xxxx this episode is about china town and chinese speernz. i love china town. i was the classhask teenager whs totally into bruce lee. thought i needed to dress like bruce lee. that's a lot of sit ups you got to do but if