>> anthony: everything old is new gn, maybe not. i come close to believing sometimes that nothing actually changes. back in the beginning fresh out. kitchen which i first went out in the world trying to figure out how to make television, i came to northern portugal.

little did i know what i would find. up until then for 30 years spent working in kitchens, meat had come wrapped in plastic. i had order it in boxes. i had never seen an animal die because i was making dinner. >> anthony: hi, how you guys doing? [ singing ]

>> market lady left: good morning. >> anthony: all right, ciao. oh man, had to call the crisis center. >> anthony: portugal, sandwiched between spain and the atlantic ocean, and tiny as countries go, has had an outsized impact on the world. during the age of discovery the portuguese they went to sea in great numbers, gained fame as navigators, ship builders, explorers. they conquered a large part of the world. their empire stretching from brazil to africa to the east indies. the city of oporto ia reflection and a creation of

that relationship with the sea. a lot has changed since i was last here, or has it? ♪ when i decided to return to take another look at this place, of course i reached out to jose de meirelles, my old boss and first entrée to portugal. >> anthony: you're good? >> jose: it's nice to see you. >> anthony: it's been a long, long time. >> anthony: jose is from the area around oporto, and this time just like back then he said come see my country, and meet my family. we'll do a pig feast. >> anthony: 16 years later, i came here in 2001 one of the first times i've ever been on television and here we are again. there are only so many beautiful places left in the world, oporto

is one of them, gorgeous. has it changed too much? >> jose: ehh, special big cities, especially oporto, it's changed a lot. it was never a tourist town. now it's packed with tourists. >> anthony: so is that good news or bad news? >> jose: it's good news, it's good. i mean it's good for the economy, especially if you came up during the financial crisis and all that. so, it was a great help for the city. >> anthony: i mean it looks even prettier than it looked last time. they seemed to have fixed up a lot of buildings. >> jose: because this downtown area, historically oporto was completely degraded. old buildings collapsing with the flux of tourist a lot of people invested, and they started fixing it. ♪ >> anthony: so what are we eating here, this is supposed to be a -- >> jose: you know actually we're going to start with patinhas, those are small sardines. >> anthony: you eat everything,

the bones, you eat the whole thing. >> jose: everything. you can eat 1,000 of them and the plate is empty and that's a good thing nobody can see how many we eat. >> jose: you ready for the tripes? >> anthony: yes! >> jose: ahh, so let's go. the tripes is the iconic dish of oporto. >> anthony: tripieros right? >> jose: tripas, that's trip people. >> anthony: why? >> jose: there were a couple of stories, the more historical one i guess, henry the navigator at one point he was putting an armada of ships to go ceuta the people from oporto gave them all the meat they had. >> anthony: so they were left with just the tripe. cheap food for the sailors, that would last a long time. >> jose: usually it's on thursday, that's the day with the tripes. because being a catholic country on friday they skip the meat. >> anthony: a meal here is, generally speaking anyway, not light. the portuguese like pork, they like it a lot. >> anthony: so sausage, bacon -- >> jose: sausage, pigs ear -- >> anthony: cured pigs ear.

what do you do when left with nothing but guts and hooves and odd bits? >> jose: you add the tripes in, some beans. >> anthony: figure out how to transform them into delicious, delicious things of course. oh wow, look at that. oh, it's fantastic. >> jose: smells delicious. >> anthony: yes, it does. should i put a little rice on the side there to mop it up? >> jose: yeah, yeah. >> anthony: mm, that is good. ♪ >> jose: older vintage, 1983 or something like this. >> anthony: i mean it's sort of incredible the story of the wines here. i hear because the soil is so

tough, flint and stone that the vines have to dig up to 30 meters down! that's a lot, i think it gives the wine a special character. northern portugal's duro valley is where port wine comes from. if it's not from here it's not port, it's just fortified wine. and i don't usually do wine scenes, no matter how good the wine. on camera it's just colored liquid going into a glass, wine nerds usually bore me. don't talk about your damn wine, drink it. but i absolutely love cheese served with a glass of port wine, and that's what most people including my new friend andre, that's what they do

around here. i'm not a deserts guy, but nice blue cheese with a glass of port for me is like the perfect thing to end a meal with. unlike wine cheese porn is easy, just like shooting actual porn, start with an establishing shot, move in for a close -- oh yeah, there we go. cut away to a reaction. money, works every time. oh [ bleep ] that's -- it's delicious. what kind of cheeses are we looking at here? >> andre: these over here are goat cheese, they're aged ones, then all of the other are sheep milk. this is worldly known quiejo da serra so the buttery one. this is what we call quiejo azeitão. it's strong, intense to your palate. >> anthony: oh, i like this guy already. any cheese that you need a spoon pretty much to -- >> andre: oh, then smell it. for me, the worse the smell the better the flavor. ah, you like it? >> anthony: smells like dirty feet, taste like heaven.

>> andre: this is a port. >> anthony: oh that's delicious. >> andre: put a little bit of that on there with some pumpkin jam on top. >> anthony: if i put on my speedo and dive into this thing please stop me. >> andre: oh, no no no. >> anthony: before i completely face plant. >> andre: i love portuguese gastronomy, the heart and soul of it is simplicity, look that's the thing that makes me fall in love with it every single day. >> anthony: cheese is one of

those things, it's always magic to me because it goes into the cave one way, and the moment you pull it out. i don't believe in god, but somehow it went in like that and came out like this. >> andre: relying on time to cut its way through it, and to change this, change the texture even the smell and we have nothing to do with that other than enjoying it. ♪ we've got drinks for long days. for birthdays. for turning over new leaves. and we make them for every moment in every corner of the country. we are the coca-cola company, and we're proud to offer so much more.

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>> anthony: i'm tony, hi. >> sofia: i'm sofia. >> anthony: sofia. >> joana: i'm joana nice to meet you. >> anthony: good to meet you both.

those who know me even a little bit are familiar with my unholy attraction to the mutant hotdog. is it actually called a hotdog here or is it called -- >> sofia: here we call it quiosque. >> anthony: quiosque. >> sofia: toasted bread, fresh sausage. >> anthony: fresh pork sausage. >> sofia: and a cheese and spicy sauce. >> anthony: and spicy sauce? >> joana: and cut in a very specific way. >> anthony: wow i really, fast knife work. >> sofia: he's asking if you want fork and knife, no we can eat it with the -- our hands. >> anthony: this is delicious. >> joana: this is very healthy too. >> anthony: yeah, i'm not so sure about that. they're busy. >> sofia: yeah, they're always busy. it's a small place and you can see its just portuguese, it's just local. >> anthony: right. how many places like this in town? >> joana: nowadays not many. >> anthony: now you guys own a tavern? >> sofia: yes. >> anthony: how's employment in

portugal now? >> joana: there's a lot of unemployment here. >> sofia: there's a lot of people like that. >> anthony: do you get a lot of people with degrees? you know, higher degrees who are opening restaurants in -- >> joana: yeah, she has a degree in psychology and i have the degree in sociology and everyone who is working with us they have a degree or they are finishing. >> anthony: i might have to have another. that was good. ♪ ♪ unlimited double miles on every purchase, not just airline purchases. now available... (clanging) ...in metal. what's in your wallet? ...in metal.

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♪ ♪

>> anthony: the city seems to have been preserved carefully and with respect for the past. i don't see a lot of high rise buildings breaking up the skyline. >> ricardo: we are still very authentic. we don't sell out very easily. >> anthony: i mean i was in a relatively poor neighborhood a couple of nights ago just walking around and somebody said "you could buy that apartment building right there for $50,000" and i said "okay good deal, but you can't touch the exterior." >> ricardo: yeah, no. >> anthony: this is the fishing import area of porto yes? >> ricardo: and it's called matosinhos, the fishing boats

just arrived and the market is just two streets away from there. >> anthony: okay. >> ricardo: oh, my god. >> anthony: seafood tower, bitches. all right then. okay not a tower precisely, but a whole heap of incredible creatures from the sea. coastal shrimp, local oysters, and crab, sea urchin, langoustines, gooseneck barnacles. this i'm very excited by. so dangerous to get these. >> ricardo: yeah, it's not the thing you get from the hulls of the boats, but from rocks. >> anthony: and you have to get it in between waves quickly. whelks. >> ricardo:[ speaks portuguese ] >> anthony: oh, there we go. mm, insane. >> ricardo: the one thing that i don't like with food is sauce.

>> anthony: yeah, i don't need it. this is all perfect. what did they do to it? they steamed it, some of it the rest is raw. i mean, it's not like this is fancy cooking. ♪ mm, this crab is like a rubik's cube trying to figure my way into here. oh, okay i found it. >> ricardo: this is the thing that gets you back to your roots. you don't have to use your hands. you don't have to be polite. >> anthony: these little shrimp, the brains are really good too. sea urchin. fat sacks of roe buried deep inside these prickly exteriors. >> ricardo: when i was a kid i went with my father to get this and it was nasty, but also very

good. it's funny, a lot of these things that we see here were used as fertilizer. >> anthony: in the years before independence, in massachusetts, lobster was seen as a pest. only people who used them regularly was the prison system. the prisoners rioted because they said this is cruel and unusual punishment, how many lobster are we going to get it's monstrous. ♪ nobody knows who first salt baked a fish, maybe it was jesus. oh, wow. scale and gut your fish, in this case a sea bass, insert lemon and onion, then pack it in salt and bake. light the whole thing on fire table side and break open. the salt acts as a protective crust sealing in all the moisture and flavor. now that looks beautiful.

that's just perfect, mm, clams cooked portuguese style. >> ricardo: yeah. >> anthony: so tender and sweet and delicious. why do you think portuguese food has not had a higher profile internationally? >> ricardo: well, for me it's real easy for me to say this, it's basically it's your fault. >> anthony: our fault!? >> ricardo: it's america's fault, yeah. >> anthony: why? >> ricardo: the american culture embraced spain, and embraced italy, and embraces france. it didn't embrace portugal because i don't know. if we have a civil war so popular like the spanish had and hemingway came to portugal instead of spain then we'd be a different country. >> anthony: you know you think of italy, you think of romance. >> ricardo: but we are romantic. >> anthony: i know. >> ricardo: we are the most romantic country in the world. after a couple of meals in porto, you're going to feel the saudade in your heart and soul. >> anthony: man, good meal. oh wait, what there's more clams? right over here, my friend. ♪

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>> anthony: contrary to what some may say, i do not enjoy seeing the death of any living thing. i do not promote animal cruelty. [ man speaking portuguese ] >> jose: ah, ready to go. >> anthony: yup. >> jose: kill the pig, kill the pig, kill the pig. >> anthony: but i think people should know where meat comes from and knowing they should feel free to decide what they want to do from there.

>> jose: before you kill them, they give them a beverage called grappa to get them drunk so the meat gets tender. >> anthony: it's the least you can do. >> jose: exactly. >> anthony: here, right here on jose's family farm is where i saw my first animal die. a pig too, this after years and decades of being a chef, serving meat, ordering up my death over the phone at a comfortable distance. up close, it was not so comfortable. >> anthony: i think he's starting to get the bad news. >> jose: and that's their dna, they know what's going to happen, and they know -- >> anthony: they know it's coming. yeah well, the pigs are smart. >> jose: and sometimes they manage to run away. >> anthony: to do the job right, professionals are brought in and they do it like this because how shall i put it, they need the heart to keep pumping the blood into the pale, for sausage and soup, and many delicious things.

we all come to this in the end, whether struggling for air in our beds, bleeding out on cold concrete, a last mighty dump like elvis. or this. >> jose: oh there are the firecrackers. that's the start of any festivities you go to, it's the firecrackers. >> anthony: as befitting tradition in the way things are done, this is a once in a year event. for two days extended family, friends, and neighbors gather to cook, cure, and eat a pig. time for a haircut? >> jose: yeah, haircut. >> anthony: old school.

>> jose: they finish up with the blowtorch. >> anthony: as one must. >> jose: they start singing, we call -- that everyone makes his own verses and the other person must respond. >> anthony: so they're like rappers. >> jose: yeah, that's it. >> anthony: freestyle. ♪

>> jose: so now they're going to finish up and take all the guts out, the heart, liver. >> anthony: then it's lunch. >> jose: lunch time. >> man in cream sweater: in portugal we used to say if you want to know our body we have to kill a pig because it's absolutely the same. the organs are placed on the same disposition. you see the liver there and the heart, you've got the tongue there too. >> anthony: ah, it's all in a package. all the good stuff. look it's a lung. he's good. >> jose: yeah he really knows what he's doing. >> anthony: i would say a surgeon but he's faster than a surgeon. ♪ guts removed the liver and heart are used today, cooked immediately. ah, this is the best, the heart. >> man in cream sweater: it's like a tender sirloin. it's so good. >> anthony: it's so good.

the intestine washed and reserved for sausage casing. >> jose: that's the pork intestine, they fill with some kind of cornmeal. >> anthony: mm, it's nice. the rest is left to hang until tomorrow, where we shall feast again. >> jose: tony this is -- that's a special part of the pork fat. >> anthony: ah, it's like chicharon. oh, wow. >> jose: is that the potatoes with the blood? >> anthony: oh, that's kind of perfect. mm. >> man in white button shirt: not all of the countries eat all the meat of the pork. in here we eat everything. >> jose: my parents they always kept a reminder when i was growing up of them during the second world war there was nothing to eat. they don't waste anything. ♪

♪ "grandma! grandpa!" ♪ thanks mom. here we are. look, right up to here. principal. we can help you plan for that. we just got to take it one game at a time. next question. odell. odell. can you repeat everything you just said? my livestream won't load. (blows whistle). technical foul. wrong sport. wrong network. see you need unlimited on verizon it's america's largest most reliable 4g lte network. it won't let you down in places like this. even in the strike zone. (laughs).

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>> woman in blue dress: [ singing in portuguese ]

>> anthony: fado, the national music of portugal. song of longing, heartbreak, saudaude set to music. ♪ >> jose: my good friend, anthony, besides other things, he also sings fado. >> man with blue collar: anthony everybody in portugal thinks that they sing fado. we the portuguese think that the fado is not the perfection, the ability, the fine tuning, its emotion, so everybody is allowed to sing.

yeah, that's why jose is telling everyone that i sing fado. >> anthony: oh, i see. >> man with blue collar: normally the guys that sing fado are very happy guys, but when they begin to sing they turn into sad guys i don't know why. >> anthony: well, you said the portuguese are bipolar. >> man with blue collar: yes, yes they are. >> jose: so we're ready to eat i think, big enough table? ♪ >> anthony: the home of jose's ancestors for centuries, much their original estate still in family hands. >> jose: we're going to start with the famous blood soup. it's called papa sarrabulho. >> anthony: very exciting. jose's mother maria is in charge today's she's preparing a feast of rustic portuguese soul food. >> jose: so it's all little

small pieces of meat, usually the bony part, the tradition comes, they cannot scrap no bones and they need to use every single piece. they boil the bones out then they finish with the blood so. >> anthony: blood and bread? mm, beautiful. so good. >> jose: let's go to the cozido i'm going to show you the -- you should eat. ♪ >> anthony: the main event cozido, a glorious stew of seemingly every last part of the pig. >> jose: i'm going to give you some of the pernil that is the snout meat. spare ribs. >> anthony: nothing goes to waste around here. >> jose: blood sausage, cabbage. >> anthony: oh, what's that? >> jose: that's the bexiga. it's the pigs bladder that's

stuffed with pork belly, spare ribs, and then smoked. >> anthony: wow, look at that. extraordinary. >> man in green sweater: and one thing is you don't feel that guilty when you're eating this because it's only just boiled and not fried, not -- >> anthony: no, i don't feel guilty. ah, it's fantastic, superb. wonderful, thank you. >> anthony: what's left of the big? couple of hams and nothing else? so the shoulders and legs are in salt. >> jose: they're in salt and they're going to be smoked. and they are fantastic. you smoke about five segments, but you know after a few drinks, everybody gets very happy, you

know. >> anthony: good. >> andre: relike happiness. >> anthony: ♪

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♪ ♪ >> anthony: cheers!

now it's kind of funny, francesinha, which translates as little french girl, but i understand she's not so little. >> all: no! >> sofia: it's your first time? francesinha? >> anthony: it is. >> joanna: really? >> anthony: you have this look on your face like you look worried. >> joanna: good luck. >> anthony: it's going to be okay right? woah, here we go. good lord, look at that thing. is there a vegetable in there? >> sofia: only meat. >> anthony: oh, my god, it weighs like a ton. ♪ so it's bread, ham, steak. >> andre: sausage and a bit of linguiça.

>> sofia: and then the sauces. many things like beer, port wine, spicy, tomato. >> anthony: cheese? >> andre: a lot of cheese. >> anthony: wow, what a construction. meat, cheese, fat and bread, it's an immortal combination. >> andre: yeah, it's the ultimate solution for hangover or too much port. >> anthony: that is delicious. oh, that's good. >> andre: it's really, really good. >> anthony: are there a lot of places making this? a lot. >> joanna: everyone does. >> anthony: and this is a porto thing specifically? >> sofia: yes. >> anthony: what's the relative rate per capita of heart related diseases in this country, i'm just curious. >> sofia: it depends on how many francesinha you have. ♪

♪ ♪ >> anthony: everything old is new again, maybe not.

i come close sometimes to believing nothing actually ever changes. that we are trapped in our destiny, hurdling, or limping or being dragged towards the inevitable. that saudade refers not to a long lost place, but a long lost time when we were all young and innocent. >> andre: saudade can help you value things. be grateful for just the sunset, enjoy that, smile. >> anthony: enjoy it now. >> andre: yes. >> anthony: because tomorrow we die. >> andre: you will never know.

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