when these kids are my age, it will be 150 million. what will be lost by that? what will be found? and how much history are we and how much history are we doomed to repeat? -- captions by vitac -- www.vitac.com i've always wanted to get as far away as possible from the place that i was born.

far both geographically and spiritually. to leave it behind. ♪ ♪

tangier, it's morocco. from 1923 through 1956, it was loosely governed by the major powers. in international zone. for years, it seemed, everything was permitted. nothing was forbidden. but the northern tip of africa, a short ferry hop from spain, tangier was a magnet for writers, for businessmen, spies, and artists. if you were a bad boy of your time, you liked drugs, the kind of sex that was frowned upon at home and affordable lifestyle set against an exotic background, tangier was for you. mattiace, chane, william burrows. many have come this way, staying a while or hanging around. but no one stayed longer or

became more associated with tangier than the novelist and composer paul bowles. it works like the sheltering sky, he created a romantic vision of tangier that persists even today. a dream that has become almost inseparable in the minds of many from reality. i'm here to find that dream city. t place burrows referred to as interzone. ♪ >> tangier, like i said, was a city of pasts. people with pasts, who simply didn't like where they were and craved somewhere, and something

else. the ground socko is the gateway where you can find the kasma, which means fortress, by the way. the port of tangier is to the east. and right in the middle of it all, what uncle bill borrows called the last stop. the meeting place. the switchboard of tangier. reasons for settling in tangier diverge. but everyone sooner or later since the beginning of memory comes to cafe tingeas. jn a than dawson came to this city over 20 years ago as a journalist and he never left. he lives a life not too distance from burrows' fantasy. taking tea at 4:00 every day, served by his man servant. he may not have a gazelle, but a pet rooster will do. and every day he makes the rounds of the cafes, seeing all

the old faces, ending up sooner or later here. so this is the patice? >> it existed in the portuguese time, the english were here for 23 years. this is a very historic square. >> as a writer, i've noticed everybody does the same article. >> it's so damn boring. it's the generation. there are lots of other stories. apart from that. tennessee williams and they were all here. >> yeah. >> but that's a small part of moroccan history. there was a life before that, and a life after that. you're here. >> yeah. it was inevitable.

what is this place? >> the reality is, you can read the story and live it. people do come here and try to live it. but they don't stay very long. they stay in a cheap hotel and go home to the bedbugs. >> that's a great story. >> and a great story. >> but the attitude here is different than other parts of morocco. i think they have a higher tolerance and tradition of bad or outrageous behavior. >> they have high tolerances. you know? but moroccan essentially are very tolerant people. they kind of like madness as well. they kind of celebrate that, you know? >> how is moroccan tangier? >> it is a moroccan city. you can see spain and gibraltar. so you see all sorts of people passing through. but it's a very moroccan city. i'm 62 years old. it was finished in 1956. but at that time i think the europeans may have outnumbered

the moroccans in the center of this city. that's not the case now. there were many europeans living here. >> the notion of living a life apart of being somewhere else, there are those who like that feeling. i like that feeling. and then there are those who may live apart and live somewhere else, but they're not entirely comfortable. the difference annoys them, or is a burden. >> and it frustrates some people. some people have to leave home to find their home. i'm one of those people. whereas i didn't feel home in the country that i was born at all. but here, i feel okay. i feel very, very happy. is. >> there is indeed something special about this place. burrows described the native quarter of tangier of a maze of twisting streets filled with blind alleys.

its smell was particularly notable to him, including a mix of hashish, seared meat and sewage. tangier before anything else is essentially a port city. with all the things that traditionally come with port cities. it's situated at the choke point between the atlantic ocean and the mediterranean sea. the moroccan coast is a rich fishing ground, and a lot of people make their living from the sea. on shore they use a method called haul fishing. where weighted nets basically drag fish across the bottom of the sea. some of that fish, the good stuff anyway, ends up here. the restaurant populare, or popeye, the place has a lot of names. people have been coming in here for years and say it has the best tangine in town.

the owner and head chef is from the nearby mountains. he sources a lot of his stuff, his produce and greens from there. and he's real proud of them. the back room of the place is dedicated to sorting and drying various herbs which he blends into a secret mix that he claims has all sorts of healthful and bone-inspiring benefits. if every dish i've been told over the years was going to make me strong, i would have a permanent pup tent going on down there. so i take all that with a grain of salt. >> hi. >> hello. >> his son delivers the food. but it all starts with fresh olives. they're in season now, and roasted walnuts. some warm, very good bread. juice. and you get this stuff. everybody gets it. a puree of figs, raisins, strawberries, and full of

muhammad's potent herbs and spices, of course. i get it, it's supposed to make me more manly. you know what, i'm eating. let's not talk about that, okay, sunshine? what is a tangine anyway? it's a traditional moroccan stew that can include vegetables, meat or fish. tonight cal i marry and monk frish with fresh mountain spinach cooked over charcoal in a pot that is supposed to force the condensation back into the dish to keep it moist and tender. delicious. linguine and herbs. i have know what they are. never had anything like that. from farm to table. >> hi. >> wow, what's that. thank you. and a whole turbo. brushed with olive oil, salt and

pepper and some coriander, then grilled perfectly over the coals. cuddle up next to the fish, tiny shark kabobs. cute. wow. spectacular. all this for $20? good value. we did a pretty good job on this fish. that will teach me. >> for dessert, strawberries, pine nuts and honey. like the whole meal, it's eccentric and delicious. thank you. i haven't had so much fruit and nuts.

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in tangier, i lived in one room in the native quarter. i have not taken a bath in a year, nor changed my clothes or removed them except to stick a needle every hour in the fibrous

gray wooden flesh of terminal addiction. i never cleaned or dusted the room. empty ampoule boxes and boxes piled up to the ceiling. lights and water long since turned off for nonpayment. i did absolutely nothing. i could look at the end of my shoe for eight hours. i was only roused to action when the hour glass of junk ran out. the words of william seward burrows, one of my heroes. he came to tangier in 1953 shortly after shooting his wife to death in a drunken accident in mexico city. he was a heroin addict, homosexual, and an inspiration to the hipsters who came to know as the beats. burrows, however, was not a hipster. there was nothing beat nick about him. he was a somewhat stuffy, st.

louis son of a good family. gone wrong. he was also to my mind the greatest writer of the whole damn bunch. on the road, you can have it. his classic naked lunch was written here. a nonlinear, dark, dry humored, searingly critical, satirical and profane masterpiece. burrows was apparently high for much of the process. on heroin, or a locally available prescription opiate. of course, the daily staple of many in these parts hashish, keef and majun. hashish is the concentrated thc rich resin of the cannabis plant. it's the part of the plant con staining the strongest concentration, the psycho active

ingredients. majun is a confection made from keef, fruits, nuts, chocolate, and honey. i was, of course, fascinated by this product since reading about it, and inquired of some local contacts. who shall necessarily go unnamed. how was it made? this is what i wanted to know. they were kind enough to demonstrate. keef is first chopped into find granules and slowly added to melted butter and chocolate and released the psychotropic goodies within. slow cooking in the pan, a combination of spices are blended with cashews, almonds, walnuts and dried fruit. this will be the framework to suspend the thc laden goodness in the next step.

the cannabis laced chocolate is binding together all the ingredients with the honey. then mix. last, the entire of the mixture into the bowl and either refrigerate or dig right in. of course, standard practices prohibit from tasting this delicious and reportedly mind-altering treat. i'm guessing anyway. so unless i see people doing rifs in the bong room, it's brought in foreign dignitaries, aristocratics and artists since it opened its doors in 1953.

cafe baba. sweet mint tea in a thick, slow moving haze of smoke, it smells like my dorm room in 1972. hello. >> i'm george. >> this is george and benja. >> thank you for having me. >> welcome to caf baba. >> i have no direct knowledge of them smoking any illegal substances or any recollection at this time of me doing anything untoward in their presence. because that would be, like, wrong, dude. george is here on a fulbright scholarship. and his friend is an artist. others in the room, i know somebody in here is smoking reefer. how stoned are people here? >> we can ask. just ask. >> you're not getting totally ripped here? >> no.

it's a functional part of daily life. for a long time, the rest of the country, and the government didn't really like tangier a lot. there were foreigners who came here. he makes money. >> he sees it as an economic super power. is that good or bad? >> it's work. of course, to keep tangier like they know it before. >> this cafe is similar to the way it was. a lot of people come to watch soccer games. >> you can well imagine, the american guy who's lived in tangier for 30 years, okay? he comes in, and there's a flat screen tv on the wall. you've ruined the authenticity and integrity. but the moroccan guy at the next table -- wait a minute, you have

a flat screen tv at home. what's wrong with us? >> there are people here who probably never heard of all this. >> right. >> there's no progression, there's no progress, there's no change. >> the thing about cafe baba is just sitting here taking in the atmosphere, you begin to appreciate the place. >> there's something different that's happening here. >> contact high. whoa, pi'm hungry. wait until the spanish dude across the street opens for business. this is abdullah. this omelet is more like a spanish tortilla, but stonier. but the potatoes are boiled, diced, then mixed with beaten eggs and cooked in a cast iron skillet. oh, yeah, the eggs. the egg man. i am me, and we are you, and where's my omelet, dude, because i am hungry.

>> one, two, three? >> abdullah is just waiting for you right when you come stumbling out of cafe baba. coincidence or not? you be the judge. >> ketchup and mayonnaise and everything. >> ketchup and mayonnaise? okay. hard to turn down at this precise moment anyway. mm-mmm. dude, that's awesome. i'll have 12 more. i pop that in there. press brew. that's it. so rich. i love it. that's why you should be a keurig man! full-bodied. are you sure you're describing the coffee and not me? full-bodied. as king midas, i eand so should you.uarantee. on struts, brakes, shocks.

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it all adds up to our most reliable network ever. one that keeps you connected to what matters most. she was his friend, record keeper of sorts, and photographer. you arrived when? >> i came in the '70s. but i went down to america. in '86 i wrote a letter to paul and said i had to take his picture. he wrote back, and said, come and visit. well, i never left. >> a lot of people came here to live that dream, or to live that life. has the reality come to resemble his perception of the reality?

>> the tangier that i see is paul. i still see it. i still feel it. you can still find the magic. >> the market is one of the best in all morocco. the food stalls and vendors are still pretty impressive. wander the markets long enough and you're sure to stumble across the unexpected. lamb's head? nothing goes to waste. char broiled, the meat is scraped off and served on a crusty lunch bread. not so adventurous? the indoor market offers a variety of smoked, cured and fresh meat. smells good in here. it looks good. oh, i've heard this cheese is amazing. >> it's good, yeah. >> could i have one? a favorite, fresh goat cheese wrapped in palm leaves. >> yeah, they're beautiful, aren't they?

>> looks good. >> a little cheese, a little flat bread, the perfect moroccan breakfast to go. we're headed into the jamala foothills of the mountain range, about 85 kilometers south of tangier in a place called shushucka. the village is home to the people of the all sharif tribe, which loosely translated means the saintly people. it's also home to one of morocco's better known musicians, bashir atar. rock 'n roll musicians have traveled all over the world to meet this guy. bashir is part of a lineage from master musicians, all from this mountain village.

famously dubbed as a 4,000-year-old rock band by william burrows, bashir, his son and these musicians maintain one of the oldest still musical traditions on earth. ♪ we're invited for dinner. it's family style, of course. beginning with a pocket. hand formed and loads of dough with seasoned beef, baked until golden and crisped in oil. one more. mm-mmm. uh-oh, here we go. the main event. tangine of chicken.

first, chopped onions, garlic, parsley and turmeric are blended with olive oil. the bird is generously coated and stuffed. then after simmering in a touch of olive oil and water, the chicken is fried until crispy, served with toasted almonds, olives, paprika and ginger. nice. >> he smells the food. >> like anywhere else in the arab world, eating with your hand, always the right one, is proper dining etiquette. >> wild spinach. >> yeah. >> chopped mountain spinach, garlic, cilantro, hot black peppers, finished in olive oil. that's delicious.

>> very good, yeah. the greatest taste for a food in the world. >> i love good food. after dinner, some fruit, some mint tea, and let the music begin. for centuries, the master musicians have been a musical choice of the royal families of morocco. excused by the country's rulers from manual labor to devote themselves to musical training. ♪

the powerful style of music is has inspired many musical speakers, the most famous paul bowles who spread the word. brian jones was here, and recorded the pipes of pan of shashucka with these musicians. the word spread and the master musicians ended up being featured on albums of the rolling stones. for years, if you were a rock god, you had to come here. the crazy percussion and strings and pipes that took you to another place. intricate, hypnotic, and beautiful. and if you're in the right frame of mind, mesmerizing.

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anyone who comes to tangier inevitably ends up lost in the old part of the city. the medina is just what you want it to be. the ancient world just residing

next to and around the new one. >> look. >> you can walk around inside the movie in your head, play the bogey character you never were, all against an all too willing, all too genuine back drop. ordinarily just the last thing in the world i would be interested in doing is antiquing. but buried in the network of the narrow streets of the old city is boutique najid, owned and operated and personally curated by this man. hello. >> how are you? >> he's one interesting guy. >> thank you. >> come on in. >> when he was a little kid back in the '60s, he left his hometown and came here. he emptied ashtrays at the wild and extravagant parties thrown here by the wealthy ex-pats. he would see what the people would buy for themselves and how they decorated their homes, and

looked around for himself, scoring, and reselling arts and an tiegs. it became something of an obsession. now across all northern africa, are bought by collectors from all over the world. antiques, wood carvings, jewelry and old doors. wow, these are incredibly beautiful. tell me about that. >> amber, coral. >> how old is this? >> this is early '20s. >> how much are you selling this piece for? >> by weight. it's quite heavy this one. 429 grams. so it comes like 14, 2,000 dener os. about $5,000. >> shall we look at another? >> oh, yes, follow me.

there is a nice collection. >> so you travel a lot? >> like you. >> oh, this is for pounding? >> this is from the gong tribe for money. >> how much do you think it would sell for? >> around $10. >> really? that's very reasonable. i'll be buying that. that's going to be an old friend. >> also a memory. >> a memory of tangier as well. najid suggests lunch at a place nearby. as a moroccan, many westerners who come to tangier come with a romantic notion that they read of tangier in the books. are they looking for morocco or this fantasm? >> just when you get here, you

know morocco, you feel that you are in morocco but you're not. also, the history, people read stories about tangier. when i first came, in the '60s, everybody said to me, you come late. >> right. >> now i'm saying the same thing that these who come and say wow. >> what was better about those days? >> at that time i was young. and it was the boom of hippies. and it was the destination of bob dylan. the parties were going on. i miss the parties. people fly from everywhere for the parties. and it would make the whole town move. blue and white parties. white and gold parties. you see people coming with amazing hats, like a cage with a bird, extravagant hat.

people put so much time and energy into these parties, you know? look at that. >> oh, that looks good. tomatoes brushed with local olive oil, garlic and coriander. beef liver grilled over charcoal. now, that looks very nice. for fish, a bit of swordfish and orange roughy. that is just beautiful. mm-mmm. >> how do you like the tomato? >> the swordfish is amazing. how else have things changed? >> how many stories do you want today? >> they're in a hurry? >> if you come to the shop, you try to avoid eye contact. if you get my eye contact, i'm going to rip you off, or -- >> or make you buy something that you don't want. >> i don't know. they have this -- >> do they buy? >> they don't even say hello. >> they don't buy. >> of course. we call them pepg wins.

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when tangier was in the zone back in the day, it seemed to some, i'm sure, that if the expats outnumbered the locals. that certainly wasn't true. but you could certainly live a life apart. make your own world in the existing one. reinvent yourself and live entirely within a universe of your own creation. far from the ground socko is a 14-acre estate owned by christopher gibbs, a well-known dealer of antiques and longtime ex-pat. today he's having a garden party. who's coming? jonathan, you know. nadine is from scotland. she's been living here for more than a decade. g.b., a frenchman who has his hands on a lot of businesses,

including a cafe. years living in tangier? unknown. an american has been here forever. many lives i gathered and carolly translates books. and dashing and mysterious baron. an artist from chile who has been working since a tasty exit from puerto rico for reasons never fully explained. on the menu, bastia. a meat or often pigeon pie as traditional moroccan as it gets. today made by gibbs' full-time cooks. the meat on this particular day is chicken. which is slow cooked in broth and spices, pulled or shredded and then folded into an eggs mixture cooked from the reduced stock of the boil.

powdered sugar and cinnamon. the whole lot is then wrapped in foi de brick, a crepe-like dough. after baked to a golden crispiness. there's a dusting of more cinnamon and sugar. it's got sweet, savory thing going on, and it's quite tasty. >> if you get nervous when you go in a room and you touch the light switch and the lights don't come on, you shouldn't be in this country. >> you said, i could live here. >> i'm still quite unsure about that. i came here in 1958 when it was quite different. long native dress. islam was still the throbbing motor of life here. i have a very tender feeling for morocco, courtesy of the people and the children, you know.

the granddad of new england, as you might say. >> i always feel welcome here. i never consider that this is mine. it's theirs and they've allowed me to live here in a very nice way. and i feel recognition. they know who i am. they know who i am. >> there is a side-by-side aspect to life here that's very unusual. >> very unusual. mostly, you can do whatever you want. if you do it with good manners. >> but it sort of a station of the cross where, you know, bad boys of culture. burrows came here to be a writer. as so many of us were. if you wanted to think of yourself as a writer, you would come here and somehow you were working with a romantic tradition. burrows right up front, me, a

writer was a guy who lounged around in a smoking jacket and smoking a hash pipe or opium pipe, littered with sleeping boys. >> or girls. >> to what extent did that girl exist and to what extent was that world created by the people who showed up with that expectation? >> since bill, the wonderful, marvelous man, he became -- >> he was just -- >> he was the very opposite of gentile. >> yeah. >> my husband knew him very well. he said, i cured him of being a drug addict. i said, how? i turned him into an alcoholic. >> who smokes hashish at the table, please raise your hand. >> is the camera on? when it comes to heartburn

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it's my last night in

tangier, and i'm headed out. most cities of the islamic world, getting a beer could be difficult. not here. as long as you're outside the medina, nearly anything goes. here, western influences become very apparent. ♪ any night of the week is a good night for young moroccans to take to the streets. this boy is from generations of the bowles-burrows era. he invited me out for a snack.

spanish style sandwiches wi. a crispy layer of french fries within the sandwich. this is delicious, by the way. the bread here is very good. you're a journalist? >> i'm not a journalist, but i own an urban magazine here in tangier. we're living in a place that is pretty special. it's not for any purpose of burrows or bowles. the city has something which makes it different from other cities. >> what about young artists, young writers, young musicians? did they come here expecting this romantic paul bowles wonder land of the '50s? >> some were. two bohemians. >> two bohemians? >> yeah, they saw coming to be an artist is going to be enough. it's not enough. it's pretty tough for them. and most of them have their

bags. today we have so many going on here in tangier, thanks to our king. veterans are here. the most important part is we should keep the old parts of the city intact. the medina. >> the medina. >> that's what's hard to do. people coming to tangier. >> they come like we come. we embrace it. other people want to come. and then we fall off. will tangier's unique character survive? >> i hope so. i really hope so. >> tangier is morocco. always was morocco.

and recently the country's leadership seems to have embraced it. in all its ill reputed glory. the days of predatory poets in search of literary inspiration in young flesh are probably over for good. hippies can just as easily get their bong rifs in portland or pe peoria. but the good stuff, the real good stuff, the sounds and smells and look of tangier, what you see and hear when you lean out the window, to take it all out the window, to take it all in, that's here to stay.

-- captions by vitac -- www.vitac.com ♪ >> who are they anyway? some ugly dutch guys, with guns. i'm guessing not particularly friendly to the current power. they look like they're coming on or going to the oppression of the black man. first