[ bells ] [ acordian ] ♪

♪ ♪ i took a walk through this beautiful world, felt the cool rain on my shoulder ♪ ♪ found something good in this beautiful world ♪ ♪ i felt the rain getting colder ♪ ♪ sha la la la, sha la la la la ♪ anthony: pittsburgh is a city of neighborhoods. each with it's own rights, and rituals. a patchwork of cultures that

took shape over a century ago. back then, the city was a beacon of hope and possibility for people from all over the world, offering the promise of work, prosperity, a new life. pittsburgh could have been another company town gone to beautiful ruin. but something happened. the city started to pop up on lists of the most livable places in america. it became attractive to a new wave of people from elsewhere looking to reinvent themselves and make a new world. and so we find ourselves asking the same questions we ask in other cities in transition. are the new arrivals, new money, new ideas saving the city, or cannibalizing it? who will live in the pittsburgh of the future? and will there be room for the people that stayed true, stuck with it their whole lives? ♪

♪ >> anthony: oh man, i'm very happy about this. sausage and peppers, one of my favorite things. all right. >> anthony: bocce, the ancient game of kings. throw the little ball, try and get the other balls close. closer than the other guys. >> anthony: cent'anni. >> all: cent'anni! >> man in gray hat: gene, uncle gene, this is anthony bourdain. >> anthony: how do you do? >> man in gray hat: 103 years old. >> anthony: looking good. >> man in gray hat: he goes up and down these bocce courts faster than anybody else. >> anthony: ah, delicious. this is a weakness of mine, you know they have these street fairs in new york where they have the sausage and peppers stands.

i cannot walk past one of those things without getting them. >> all: whoa! >> anthony: so, how long have you lived in this community? >> man in gray hat: 78 years. >> anthony: so, your whole life? >> man in gray hat: yes. >> anthony: now, the first wave of italians that came over here from italy, why did they come here? did they come here for steel jobs? coal? >> man in gray hat: actually, trade. i think they came here more for the trade. >> anthony: yeah? >> man in gray hat: yeah. >> man in black hat: plumbers, bricklayers, any kind of trade like that. >> man in pirates hat: some italians said that they were told to come over here and they were going to find the roads paved with gold. they said, they didn't tell us we had to build them first. >> anthony: how has the neighborhood changed over the years? still predominantly italian-american, or? >> man in gray hat: yeah, not as much as it was, but still more italian than anything else. >> anthony: well for 35 years or so, it was a tough time for pittsburgh. why'd people stay? >> man in gray hat: family, famiglia. >> man in pirates hat: i tell people, when you come to bloomfield don't talk about anybody because we're all connected somehow.

>> anthony: alright, on you, sir. >> man in gray hat: yeah. don't hit it, don't hit it nothing, go around. ahh! >> anthony: oh, no way. oh, man. >> anthony: 103-year-old uncle gene ruins my dreams of bocce immortality. and the weather, as if on cue, turns bad. an auger of doom, perhaps.

>> man: whoa! >> man in gray hat: that's a shame. >> anthony: and god himself appears to align himself against me. hurling all that beautiful sausage and meatballs onto the cold, wet ground. >> big shirt: that's still good. >> anthony: well, i'm glad i got to eat. ♪ ♪ >> stewart: 'oh', arlene said, as they passed the old nabisco plant. cleaned up and advertising condominiums.

'have you heard how much they are asking for a one bedroom?' 'how much?' 'a million-two.' 'that is highway robbery. who would honestly pay that to live in east liberty?' 'they are calling it east side now.' 'who's calling it that?' 'no one i know. it's a boondoggle if i ever saw one.' beside the greed factor, she didn't actually mind the condos. better than leaving the building empty. >> anthony: stewart o'nan is a local author who has written 15 novels, many set in pittsburgh. >> stewart: we are the city that made the steel, that beat the confederacy, beat the kaiser. built the skyscrapers, built the bridges, beat the nazis. ♪ ♪ >> anthony: who came, in the very beginning, lured by jobs in steel.

>> stewart: most of the people that came here, once the steel industry was in place, were people from central europe. they were blue-collared, they worked long hours. they worked hard dangerous jobs. they made the money to send their kids to schools to become white collar. at one point i believe we were the sixth largest city in america. we're now 63rd. >> anthony: now wait a minute. sixth largest in america, now 63rd? >> stewart: sixty-third. >> anthony: so, what happened? >> stewart: well, the steel industry began to falter in the 1960s. and by the 1980s it was essentially dead. in the 1980s this place was a ghost town. we lost half of our population. they went away. and half of your population means at least half, if not more, of your tax bace. >> anthony: so what went right? >> stewart: what went right, weirdly enough, was what went wrong.

we became attractive to people outside of pittsburgh because it's super affordable. >> anthony: bow down to your new masters. your techie future. the robot overlords of a shiny, new pittsburgh. the computer science program at carnegie mellon is one of the best in country. inspiring an arms race between companies looking to recruit brainiacs for new fields of artificial intelligence, cutting edge medical research, possibly cyborg super-nerds who will no doubt revenge themselves on all of us for their painful high school experiences by crushing us between their synthetic mandibles. they are also good for business. >> waiter: here you go, guys. >> stewart: thank you. >> anthony: thank you. >> stewart: the googlers who are coming in are coming in at the very top of the food chain. and they are walking into brand new housing. they are making six figures, they are 23 years old. and, you know, i think the old-school, the people that have been here forever, are not happy about it. >> anthony: i mean, you know, it's going to be all pencil

necks, like in 20 years. bad breeding stock. >> stewart: it's the problem of inclusion and exclusion, right? it's the american problem, that's what fitzgerald writes about in gatsby. who is included, who is excluded? who's allowed in, who isn't? >> anthony: right. >> stewart: and that is the worry; that we are going to forget the people that have lived through it and have stayed here, and had no choice but to stay here. ♪ ♪ >> you're watching my journey through pittsburgh, but don't stop there. go to explore "parts unknown" now and become part of the adventure. just not with me. well trace my footsteps, see what happens on our search to find a perfect dish in taipei.

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today, a new generation is leaving their mark on the city. [ rock band singing ] >> anthony: justin severivo opened his restaurant, cure, as an ode to flesh, smoke, and animal fat. maggie meskey designs and creates cocktail programs at bars and restaurants across the city. and sonja finn was there from the beginning, planting the flag for farm - to - table cooking back in the early days, with her restaurant, dinette. ♪ ♪ >> anthony: the countryside around pittsburgh is beautiful.

another world. i join a group of foodie all-stars about 20 miles outside of town for a meal. >> anthony: are there typical, iconic pittsburgher qualities? >> maggie: i'd say you probably worked here and brag about working here. you complain about millennials. you complain about the people in the street harassing you. you don't like anything new, at all. >> anthony: you're describing me. >> anthony: the menu is looking good. right in my happy zone. racks of pork rib, grilled hearts of escarole and turnips. a sauce made from the pork drippings. and, four types of sausage. >> anthony: wow, look at this.. >> maggie: this is amazing. >> anthony: that's titanic. i don't want to speak about pittsburgh in a dismissive way, but it was not known for being what it is today. people are talking a lot about the food scene here. 'twas not always so, what were people eating before? >> justin: you know, steak and potatoes.

>> sonja: you know, living in san francisco, as a young person in your 20s, you were going out to eat. that was really important. and we all knew about the restaurants, whether you were in the restaunt business or not. and that wasn't pittsburgh. when i opened dinette in 2008, you know, i'm expecting people like me to be coming in. i'm 29, that's who i'm building this restaurant for. and everyone was. >> justin: 56. >> sonja: yea, my parents age or older. ♪ ♪ >> justin: you know, i thought to myself, i'm going to this neighborhood that's basically desolate. i'm going to take this building that's, it's a restaurant that's been closed for seven years. and i'm going to do something nice here. you know i didn't expect the reaction i got from the actual people that lived around me. >> anthony: right. >> justin: you know, which was not positive. they liked it the way it was. you know, that was their life. and then i move in and all of a sudden, i open this restaurant

and people with nice, fancy cars are taking their parking spaces. and now i'm a yuppie gentrifier. you know what i mean? >> anthony: well, you know, own it. >> sonja: sometimes it kind of hurts, right? as a restaurant owner or small business owner, because there are always haters out there. and you feel like, okay, so somebody wants me to be a small business owner, and take care of my employees. and then also on me, they are going to talk about gentrification. like you're just trying to do your thing. you're just trying to do something good. >> anthony: right. >> justin: and you're trying to do it for you. and you should. >> sonja: yeah, but, i don't know, i mean for me it's different. like, i definitely was thinking about the neighborhood when i did it. like i'm not some egomaniac who thinks that just putting out my food is a reason. so that everyone can enjoy the artistry of my food. that's why i'm opening a restaurant. that's not the point. >> justin: not to disagree with any of what you just said. but i didn't open cure in lawrenceville because i wanted to change the neighborhood. i honestly opened cure for me, 100%.

i was like struggling professionally, struggling personally. cure was all about satisfying me. like, 100%. >> anthony: if i'm running a high-end restaurant in pittsburgh, who am i employing as porters, dishwashers. >> sonja: students. >> justin: honestly, like, our dishwashers are white kids. >> anthony: no way. >> justin: pittsburgh, pa, is a big bright shining star of an example of what blue-collar america was a hundred years ago. >> sonja: when we are looking at who is applying, we also need to look at neighborhoods. the topography of pittsburgh is such that neighborhoods are separated by bridges and ravines. and this sort of thing means that people ay within their neighborhood. ♪ ♪

>> anthony: everybody is talking about a pittsburgh renaissance. there are artists coming, there are hip, new restaurants. somebody is making money. >> sala: yes. >> anthony: money is definitely coming in. is it lifting all boats? >> sala: no. it is not. the new pittsburgh attracts new people. but, it doesn't change the life for those workers who were left behind. and kind of spit out. >> anthony: this is the hill district, traditionally african-american. the numbers here do not indicate a renaissance. black homes take in half the income of their white neighbors. and african-american youth are six times as likely to be arrested, go through the system. from which many can never break free. when activist sala udin was growing up here, the

neighborhood was thriving. the golden age harlem of pittsburgh. >> sala: they used to call this city 'hell with the lid off'. the mills ran 24 hours a day. i grew up in a time when most adult men in the neighborhood, in the morning, i saw them getting up and going to work. my dad for example, dropped out of school, but was still able to find work that paid enough to raise a family. my mother had 12 children. >> anthony: and your dad was able to raise 12 kids? >> sala: that's right. >> anthony: wow. that was a very different america. >> sala: that was a very different america. >> pedestrian: how you doing, sala? >> sala: good, good.

this is where i lived, this is where i grew up. all of this area, this whole flat parking lot area that you see. this is where we lived. devastation. they just completely devastated our whole neighborhood. ♪ ♪ >> anthony: in the 1950s, the city came up with a plan to revitalize the hill district by leveling large swaths of it. eight thousand residents, including sala, were displaced. and instead of new housing, the land was used to build a hockey arena. >> sala: difficult, painful memories of what used to be, and now we see suburbanites coming in to have a good time. visit the penguins. they don't live here. they just play here.

and they don't, they don't know the pain that this playground caused. >> anthony: what's the missing component here? >> sala: what's missing is an economic plan that includes everybody. not just the techies and the computer geeks, but regular people.

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what was it like here when you started, was it different here? >> jamilka: no. it was, and i think to a certain degree still is. like, this mushroom guy, who comes every year, he knows who i am. and i'm like the only person with a clipboard and whites. and he's still like 'can i talk to the chef?' that's me. >> anthony: let me smack you and write 'chef' backwards on your forehead. so, who is coming to town now? i mean who are your customers? >> jamilka: so, you know, last three, four years we have been having like, young, mid-20-somethings to 30-somethings. like engineers and tech people moving into town. >> anthony: that's good for business. >> jamilka: sure, but. >> anthony: you seem wary about

the future. you think this is a bubble, or do you think this is going to keep growing? >> jamilka: i think i'm usually really like a positive person, and like i want it to work. i just, yes, i am definitely worried. i think that the city is growing fast. and like, i don't know if we are able to keep up with it. more thd data, we give you unlimited plans with hbo included for life. because you deserve more entertainment. and more spokespeople. talking like this, saying the word more. at&t. it's time for more. am i too close? i feel like i'm too close. get the iphone 8 and with all at&t unlimited plans, get hbo for life. only from at&t. we come into this world needi♪ others. then we are told it's braver to go it alone. ♪ but there is another way to live. ♪ a way that sees the only path to fulfillment-

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>> tony buba: this is not my town anymore. when i was young and growing up, shooting craps and chased by the cops. now i'm sitting around with a bunch of people talking about hops. this is not my town anymore. >> anthony: the town of braddock is where andrew carnegie built his first steel mill in the 1870s. by the turn of the century, he bought another one up the river, to carry furnaces. these smoke and fire belching behemoths were the heart of the steel producing industry that spread throughout the monongahela river valley. generating wealth and power to the few, and a decent living to many. >> archive: when tomorrow comes, you'll have a better so-called today. so your thinking of today will decide your destiny and your future. and if you don't succeed, it's your own fault because you

didn't take control of what you think. because what you think is going to decide what you do. and what you do is going to decide what you get. that's all for today fellas. let's go to work. >> anthony: for the last 40 years, tony buba has been making documentaries about the fate of the working class in braddock. he grew up here during the town's heyday. the 40s and 50s before leaving to go to film school. >> anthony: why'd you come back? >> tony buba: why'd i come back? i was gone from like '68 to about '75. then i came home and i saw everything became even worse. and the people i hung out with, like sal carrilla and other guys. they were just really characters. >> archive: she's going to push the button on me, no one is going to push the button on me. nobody, nobody. the only guy that can do that is that guy up there. jc, jc my man. >> tony buba: a lot of wwii people that were starting to die off, and i was really like, this is going to disappear. the industry is going away, so, i didn't know what else to make films about so i just started

documentaries. i just wanted to capture it, and get some of these characters on film and make them mythical. >> anthony: but, you stayed in braddock because braddock was your subject. >> tony buba: it was my subject, and i thought, okay, what if i move to los angeles. maybe i get a job in the industry, but what if i get stuck working on love boat my whole life? you know? >> anthony: well, yeah, that would be the nightmare scenario. >> tony buba: yeah, exactly. >> anthony: in the mid-20th century the population of braddock was 20,000. today, it is down to 2,000. more than 40% of whom live below the poverty line. >> tony buba: this is where i went to junior high school. >> anthony: closed? >> tony buba: yeah, closed. >> anthony: so who is moving in, is anyone moving in now? >> tony buba: nobody is moving into pittsburgh actually. >> anthony: i thought you had all these tech jobs coming in? google and uber. >> tony buba: yeah, you know all that stuff was coming in but they sort of do this up-beat bullshit about people coming in. if it wasn't for some 30,000 immigrants, i mean the population would have dropped even more. >> anthony: now this is new, the brewer. >> tony buba: right, yeah, they've done really well with

this place. >> anthony: well who drinks there, i mean are they locals? >> tony buba: no, it's too expensive, $7 a beer. there's people coming in on bicycles, grabbing a beer, getting something from the taco truck. and they want a sort of "the wire" experience, you know? 'yeah, i was in braddock, having a beer.' sort of giving a little cred' to their lives, i don't know. and it's all sort of, you know, white businesses. >> anthony: in 1988, the state classified braddock as financially distressed. their term for bankruptcy. a status it still holds today. >> anthony: this is still working? >> tony buba: this is still working. it's the only plant working in the whole mon valley. this is where my dad worked for 46 years. the last time i was there, it looked like a spaceship it was all so modernized. it was probably 500 people doing the work. you know when my dad was there with 5,000. >> anthony: so what do you think it's going to take? or do you think it's just going to die? >> tony buba: i think we're in the last stages of capitalism. >> anthony: so you're talking

socialism? >> tony buba: yeah, yeah, i'm talking socialism. >> anthony: when the magical workers paradise arrives, will braddock be here? >> tony buba: will braddock be here? i wish there was a simple answer to all this. i will die before i actually see what happens. i'm not going to know the story, and it really bothers me. it's the only thing i hate about the thought of dying. is that i don't know what the story is going to be. so, verizon and google have teamed up on the pixel 2. it's a match made in tech heaven. it's like verizon is the oil and google is the balsamic. no, actually they separate into a suspension.

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♪ >> john: braddock, pennsylvania sustained a real traumatic unraveling, that was common in

rust belt communities and towns. but ours was a particularly severe example of that. >> anthony: average income? >> john: we are around $20,000, so we're --. >> anthony: which is? >> john: which is substantially below the pennsylvania average. >> gisele: i'll have mothers that will call me on a monday and, you know by friday they are going to be out of food to feed their three kids. and this happens quite regularly. >> anthony: john fetterman does not look like your typical mayor; and he isn't. he came to braddock in 2001 to help at-risk youth get their ged's. and ran for office here in one of the most depressed towns in the state four years later. his wife, gisele, is from rio, and she runs a non-profit that provides food and essential supplies for more than 1,500 families each month. >> anthony: a lot of people in this country are angry. they feel that their anger has not been acknowledged in any way. and frankly, i think they're right. >> john: yup. >> anthony: there is a sense, particularly in rural, white america of aggrievement. that nobody is listening.

nobody is caring about them. >> john: i mean, western pa played a pivotal role in helping elect donald trump. and he turned pennsylvania red for the first time since '88. and did it so without about a margin of 44,000 people, a lot of whom you as you referenced, are disaffected democrats. somebody phrased it to me where it's like, if the economy is not going to work for me then i don't want it to work for anybody. >> anthony: how does that manifest itself on a local basis for you? >> john: it's an honor to be involved, and i hope that whoever it is that is next realizes that you need to go outside your communities' borders to bring help in, and that's what i've tried to do. >> anthony: that means people like 4-time super bowl champion franco harris. and if you're wondering how he could help, you might be surprised by the answer. >> john: franco and i hope to be growing medical marijuana about a block from here. we put in an application for a large grow facility here in our community which would be a real economic shot in the arm, and it's been a real honor to partner with someone like franco.

>> anthony: why is this a cause for you? >> franco: i'm a believer in medical marijuana because of pain management. and i've run into many ex-players who deal with pain management. and right now the alternatives don't look good. and we have a lot of problems with the alternatives. >> anthony: there's no doubt about that. >> john: western pennsylvania has been ravaged by the opioid crisis. and it positions us for the eventual legalization of marijuana, and um. >> gisele: it would also pull braddock out of act 47, so we would no longer be fiscally bankrupt. >> anthony: braddock lost its initial bid for a medical marijuana license. but there are a few other madcap entrepreneurial efforts in town. lone dreamers with a plan. one such dreamer is chef kevin sousa. kevin was one of the first of a new generation of chefs to bring national attention to pittsburgh when he opened his restaurant, salt of the earth, in 2010.

>> anthony: what are we looking at here, chef? >> kevin: all right, so we are landlocked, so seafood is tough. this is lake erie walleye pike. some new potatoes from the farm. some of the crackling from the fish, took the skin, crisped it up, it's nice and crunchy. and then just a lot of little farm herbs. >> anthony: now, after some bumps in the road, he's improbably turning this building, a former chevy dealership, into his latest restaurant, superior motors. opening night is less than a month away. >> john: do i have to eat this? i mean it's too pretty to eat. >> anthony: the fish was amazing, by the way. >> kevin: thank you very much. >> anthony: where were you born and raised? >> kevin: mckees rocks. >> anthony: close to your roots. >> kevin: yeah, yeah. in locality and in spirit. >> anthony: is the restaurant business any, i mean, because i know it's been bumpy for you. >> kevin: it has. >> anthony: you over over-expanded? >> kevin: over expanded with no capital. i just thought we were going to open the doors and everyone was going to go ape [ bleep ] for whatever it is that i served.

and i learned. as serendipity would have it, i met john, asked if i'd be interested to go for a walk in braddock. came out to braddock, fell in love. and it's suffered much in the same way braddock has. >> kevin says he has ambitions that go beyond turning a profit. his restaurant hopes to provide tuition training and they're employing high school students to grow produce in the shadows of the old steel mill. we're talking a swank restaurant to attract the money classes from out of town, and locals will be offered steeply discnted meals. >> this is beautiful, grass fed beef short ribs sitting on a bed of blanched milk weed buds. >> awesome. >> that's the compliment.

[ laughter ] >> what

♪ pittsburgh, you'll find yourself here, in new alexandria. it's a whole other world.

no fears of genertrification. brook davis grew up a few towns from here. these cars ain't exactly street legal. the winner gets $900. how long have you been doing this? >> getting into it, like six years. >> how did it all begin? >> my dad, him and my uncle ran back in the '80s and '90s.

>> brook is one of the best drivers that i've seen. >> what's the difference between male and female drivers? >> there's not many females that compete. >> wouldn't be great to see some big man fall to his knees sobbing after you just destroyed him? >> maybe. it depends on who they are. >> some guy that's been talking shit all week. >> oh, yeah. probably i'm the only girl that's running out there. cheers. thank you. >> eight, seven, six, five, four, three,

>> i like to look for the weakest car, get them out of the way first. i'm running with guys that have been running a really long time. sometimes they think i'm an easy target. maybe i might get scared. but definitely not like that. i can battle it out to the end. i'm not going to quit. >> what's the best part of driving, other than winning? >> i was going to say winning. >> any time it comes down to me and my brother or my friends, when you know you've beat

everything. >> so when you dry a friend's hopes and dreams? >> oh, that's the best. [ laughter ] ♪ >> by the end, most cars are worse for wear. brook comes in third place, so she doesn't walk away empty handed. [ applause ] all over western pennsylvania, from small towns to the largest.

-- captions by vitac -- www.vitac.com i'm on patrol with some heavily armed men. they're not members of the military. they're not law enforcement. they're everyday people who are exercising their right to bear arms. this is a malitia, a private group of armed citizens.