felt the cool rain on my shoulder ♪ ♪ found something good in this beautiful world ♪ ♪ i felt the rain getting colder ♪ ♪ sha la la la la sha sla sla sla sla sha la la la la sha la la la la la la la ♪ >> this is the restaurant nasa in new york city tucked in the time-warner center in columbus circle. it is america's most expensive

restaurant. dinner here costs around $600 per person before sake or extra pieces of the most outrageously high quality tuna on the planet. the raw ingredients are often flown in from japan or to this man's specifications. this is nasa takayama. to call him america's most respected sushi chef could be an injusti injustice. he is much more than that. what was it about him that set him apart took him from a bleak farming community in rural japan to be first the toast of los angeles and later the king of new york. it's a fascinating story. this is the west coast along the sea of japan. it is known for the untouched by

time traditional districts, one of the few cities left relatively intact throughout the war. it is famous for its crafts and beautiful ceramics in particular. also the artistic sensibility and the way it also valued beautiful things, traditions. it's a city thated masa through grace and esthetics and style that affected him deeply. >> look at that! a lot of crab. >> shrimp and sardines. let's go there. >> look at that. >> sea urge in is one of my absolute favorite things has a limited season from september to april and tastiest in winter. >> from here?

>> another seasonal specialty is at or nur its best. juicy and sweet and delicious. >> oh, man, that is good. >> really good. sweet. >> very. >> we need a sake. >> very good. >> eel livers grilled on a stick. >> unagi? ooh, hot. oysters are the size of freakin' clown shoes. >> where are these from?

wow. just one oyster is a meal. as big as a steak. >> thank you. >> french style. wow. wow. that's good. and tender for a big oyster. >> thank you. >> so good, huh? >> the geisha profession gained

widespread popularity in the late 18th century wearing elaborate kimono costumes and make up, geishas are paid to entertain. by singing, dancing and drinking and making older men generally feel good and welcome for an hour, maybe two. this is the owner of the tea house. one of only 15 or so left here. >> these tea houses that numbered in the hundreds of which there are only about 50 left working in the city. >> this is a retired geisha whom he credits with teaching him many things about culture, and presumably about women.

>> it's beautiful. >> this is a hard thing to do. >> they're need to learn a lot of stuff. >> play music and tell stories. >> dance. >> a lot of work. >> so what brought you here first? >> i didn't know this world. color-wise and art theist. beautiful. i never have seen that kind of stuff. i was a country boy here. i learned from her culture. they toech me. this is my second country. >> own and run by four

generations within the same family, this is a traditional restaurant that dates back to 1890. this is a multicourse meal with a new menu presented every few weeks in response to the changing seasons and the seasonality of the products available in the region. everything is considered. the taste of course and how to prepare a fish or plant at its peak. even the ceramic dishes on which each is served changes constantly. leaves, flowers, elements from nature evoke the season. >> the first of eight dishes preserved in a bamboo leaf to resemble a sport. tea leafs over rice sweetened by vinegar, soy sauce, sugar and sesame. >> beautiful.

>> when you first went to the u.s., how old were you? >> 27. >> did you have a job? >> no. play golf. >> no way. >> when i was a kid, the teacher said american kids drew a flat straight line house, tree, sun. huge. the house or the sun. i wanted to go to the u.s. to see huge land. >> grilled rock fish steamed in folk worm wood. >> good fish. >> very good. >> they prepared table side. today's course is cod. salted and pressed between

leaves of kelp for two hours coated with cod fish roe. the skin gently rubbed with grilled tomato the day before. finally a super juxuruous hot pot. rice is steamed and topped with clams as well as creamy sea urge in in a japanese blossom for good measure. simple, perfect. >> wow! >> it all goes into the rice. >> i want to know, the stereo typical japanese mentality, you joined the company and you stay with the company. >> most people go that way. >> just security. it's an unusual way of thinking. i have to make my own way. >> i agree with that.

older brothers can take over the family business. we realize it's a different world. what could i do? second brother may be. >> second brother syndrome. >> this was awesome. >> good to see you again.

ishikawa prefecture is the rich country. fresh seafood. very good principal. i came here to learn. this place totally changed me. he is my mender. he is a great artist. gave me a lot of ideas.

more than 40 years he has been doing this. they learn that simple clean lines and we become great friends. and then i started designing too. i have an image in my friend and i started drawing. then i come here.

that passion makes me change. >> when do you make the drawings for the ceramics that you want. >> when i drink. >> always eating and drinking and drawing. >> yes. >> when you are in new york and the ceramics come. >>y get pissed. >> your design, man. >> 90 minutes southeast is a reg yon that looks unlike anyplace i have ever been in japan. masa's good friend and art adviser has a family hide away

here. a beautiful 120-year-old traditional home built around them. a sunken hearth in the middle of the living room. >> it's wild getting up here. the snow and the rocks in the road. not only does this heat the entire house, it's the gathering place on lights like these. they get together, cook, eat, drink slightly chunky sake and enjoy the country life. the boys laid out the makings of an amazing feast. enormous scallops pulled this morning from the sea sizzle and pucker in the fire in a touch of home brewed soy sauce. wild japanese bohr raid yeas a sweet aroma as it cooks.

>> how long have you known each other? >> three years. >> i love this kind of cooking. it's the way i like it. >> wow. sweet. >> freshly caught local quail is rubbed with olive oil and glazed with the homemade soy. >> good? >> that's good. >> slow cook give this is nafr. soft and juicy. >> how is the fish? >> you know what he said? i'm going to burn it up. >> him first. >> good food takes a long time. >> this big argument with the

spanish is umami a flavor or sensation? >> it's an essence. >> it's a mysterious force. >> much bigger than the universe. >> bigger than flavor. of course this is under the ground and covered with snow. then it opens up like that. this is first sign of pring. >> how do you cook this? >> grill, fried, or braise it. i'm going to grill it. a little bit of oil and salt. the faces are so happy. they want to be cooked this way. very bitt. it's bitter to grow. >>his is italian. at end of an italian meal. sweet, fat, sweet, fat.

at the end of the meal, something bitter to remind you of the sadness. that says i didn't know that. he taught me this. he is my maestro. teacher. try this. strong, right? >> u miaa'aumami is deep. >> among his many skills is a shocking proficiency at making soaka noodles. tonight it is paired with tender duck and green onion. >> a nice al denty. >> perfect. >> and topped with a warm sauce

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>> sushi. and not just sushi, sish made of one of the oldest most iconic and best establishments in the world. the place where it all began. not just for masa, but sushi apprentices who went on to open their own places all over the world. this is tokyo, the original. 130 years old. for all that time this in one form or the other is how the day started. scaling and gutting the fish,

pre prepping the kitchen. >> sake for customer. dishwasher, everything. >> for how long? >> two years. >> only in the 30 year, the rice. if you get that right, maybe, just maybe the master will teach you the next phase, how to stand thx to him slicing the fish. eventually creating piecesof nigiri at the bar. not all will make it. to achieve that status of tly beming a master chef. >> how many years? sic seven years to learn. that's a lot of time and a lot of pain. what was it like apprenticing here? >> his father was very tough. his grandfather was here too.

very tough. >> young masa was an apprentice. this is his son who runs the place today. the fourth generation to uphold the standards and family tradition. >> seared horse mackerel over green onion and ginger. >> love it. there is this very old style. it's good.

>> blue fin tuna prepared classic style. >> that's so beautiful. >> what happened if you did a bad job? >> just the thing is a louder punishment. >> you don't go home feeling good. >> yelling. yelling. >> how does he remember you? good guy or bat guy? >> i don't know. >> is he any good at saxophone? >> i love it. here in the bathroom.

>> here? >> they play like that. >> they will kill you. very unusual man. >> sushi is the best meal. we can enjoy it every small piece. we can see the chef slicing it and making it from right here. japanese tiger prawn. >> that's fighting spirits like this. >> with soy and sake. you have to eat is quickly.

30 seconds to one minute. >> it's dying. >> he is somewhere. >> moving and swimming. pretty fast. amazing. this momentum is right there. very important. >> sea eel in fresh crackling seaweed. >> oh, man. wow. >> his father told me i did a great job. >> this is very difficult. >> yep.

>> please teach my son is what he said. >> this has lots of shrimp eggs and the fish pieces. >> did he ever think you would be a success in america or did he think bad move? >> ambitious.

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>> this is a town like many others in rural japan. the kind of japanese town we don't see much of in movies or television. the once traditional farming community is slow paced, inward looking and the opposite end of the universe from new york and tokyo. >> it used to be a five-hour trip and reduced to two by the bullet train. why don't we have these in america, by the way? ask your congressman. this drap featureless place is where masa was born and raised

and could well have stayed and everything would have been different. masa's dad recently passed, but his mom is still going strong. the center of the family. california raised, but a frequent visitor to the family home. she and her grandmother are celebrating and preparing for masa's homecoming. this is pork tripe, green onions

and miso. welcome home. >> this is really good. >> katherine is a pastry chef at the great restaurant, the french laundry in the napa valley. high level cooking seems to run in the family. >> you grew up in the sushi bar. >> sitting on a milk crate with a cheeseburger and prepping and i call out dad. he said i'm not your dad here! >> what did you do for fun? >> eating. >> your father was in the fish business.

they worked for the faamly business every day after school for the family business. >> they differ. >> you learned how to clean fish very early. >> 10, 11, 12. >> were you a good student? >> i was. >> were you a good one?

>> were you surprised he became a big success in america? >> you are not a lazy kid. >> i can't for long. i have to do something. >> she is saying he probably works more here. >> it's great flavor. >> then go this way. >> comfort food is one thing and it's wonderful, but masa being masa, there is a mountain of

decidedly luxurious sashimi in tokyo this morning. >> we do the simple and easy. >> a pile of incredible beautiful things. >> tuna that any sushi enthusiast will cut their best friend's throat for. >> typical japanese meal. country cooking at its best.

>> high school, raa ra, high school shish boom ba. the school in japan is different. he didn't give up on fiscal education as we seem to have. the 1,000-year-old martial art is so widely taught. boys and girls alike compete with bamboo swords and standings for samurai swords and the same thing, man.

>> and the concept of prudent central to the study of any martial art. that can apply to cooking at a high level. it's no surprise that he once suited up the same team at the same junior high school. i don't think it's going to work frankly.

>> you still got it, man. looking good.

>> masa left the area. his oldest brother stayed. he has been the chef proprietor of the local restaurant for the last 30 years. eel liver dipped in a sauce of sake, soy, and mirin and grilled low and slow over charcoal. >> so back in the days of the family catering business, when he looked at his younger brother, did he think this guy is going to make something of himself? >> he's like no.

>> he was not a good student? >> when he went to high school and stopped studying. >> what was he doing instead of studying? >> mahjong. ♪ >> anthony: next, this insanely delicious custard of eel and egg, jacked with bean curd, bonito broth and kelp -- >> catherine: oh, wow. >> anthony: wow, that is beautiful. >> chef kazuo: [ speaking japanese ] >> anthony: really good. of everyone in the family, how'd your dad end up the weirdo? >> catherine: so, after he graduated high school, he didn't have any idea what he wanted to do. my uncle at the time, he was already in tokyo and he was like, "look, come out to tokyo, work at ginza sushiko," and he went to go check it out and he loved it. >> anthony: forgive me if i'm wrong -- that was a tremendous break for an aimless young man from the provinces. >> catherine: you know, my father, being the second son, he

kinda had free range to do whatever he wanted. >> anthony: right. >> catherine: [ speaking japanese ] >> chef kazuo: [ speaking japanese ] >> catherine: so, traditionally it's the oldest son who stays to take care of the parents. >> anthony: if he could live his life over again -- >> catherine: yeah. >> chef kazuo: [ speaking japanese ] >> anthony: a designer? of? >> chef kazuo: a fashion designer. >> anthony: fashion designer? >> catherine: fashion! really? >> chef kazuo: [ speaking japanese ] >> anthony: then hitusmabushi, eel steamed, dressed and grilled over rice. oh look at this. >> catherine: oh wow. there are a lot of components here.

amazing. >> anthony: wow that's good. oishi. >> chef kazuo: thank you. >> catherine: i've never had unagi other than my uncle's unagi. but -- >> anthony: really? >> catherine: yeah. oh! >> anthony: good sake. good food. >> catherine: yeah. [ speaking japanese ] ♪ what started as a passion... ...has grown into an enterprise. that's why i switched to the spark cash card from capital one. now, i'm earning unlimited 2% cash back on every purchase i make. everything. what's in your wallet? t-mobile family plans now come with netflix included. that's huge. that's right. t-mobile's got your netflix subscription covered... ...when you get a family plan with two or more lines. really? that's incredible. so go ahead and watch however you want. you're messing with me, right? all at no extra charge.

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in the mirror everyday. when i look when i look in the mirror everyday. everyday, i think how fortunate i am. i think is today going to be the day, that we find a cure? i think how much i can do to help change people's lives. i may not benefit from those breakthroughs, but i'm sure going to... i'm bringing forward a treatment for alzheimer's disease, yes, in my lifetime, i will make sure.

♪ >> anthony: the japanese often bear a heavy burden of responsibilities -- societal expectations, family obligations, tradition, work. but when they relax, they really do it well. they are better at it than anybody. it's good man. soak in an outdoor onsen -- natural sulfur baths in the mountains, for instance. oh, awesome. >> masa: oh, man.

so good, huh? >> anthony: yeah. i feel healthier already. >> masa: yeah. where's the beer? cheers. >> anthony: it is suntory time my friend. it's time to relax. ♪ >> masa: beautiful color, huh? >> anthony: looking good. >> masa: right? >> anthony: get together with some friends and cook up some al fresco, mountain style sukiyaki, bitches. maybe a little tempura made from foraged wild asparagus and fukinoto. yep. >> masa: beautiful. >> anthony: and when it's sukiyaki time, after a whole lot of, shall we say, home brewed sake -- you just kick back, stir

in the maitakes and the shiitakes and some tochigi beef and enjoy the day. >> masa: this is what i do. beautiful, right? >> anthony: oh yeah. this is going to be good. >> masa: yeah, more, more, more, more, more. more, more, more, more, more, more, more -- yeah, yeah. good, good, good. >> anthony: nice eggs. >> masa: beautiful eggs. so good. see? that's what i like. outside, especially outside it tastes better, much better. >> anthony: everything tastes better outside. >> masa: exactly, exactly. >> anthony: so how long have you known these guys? >> masa: uh, since, since high school. >> anthony: high school. >> masa: high school, yeah, which is what? 44 years. >> anthony: 44 years. >> masa: yeah, it's a long time. huh? [ laughter ] >> anthony: how does he remember you in high school? who was the best student, who was the worst student here? >> masa: he's the best student. >> anthony: best student. >> masa: these guys, the three

guys, the three of us were the worst. >> anthony: the three of you were bad students. >> masa: ah, really good. >> anthony: so you do this when you were kids? build a fire? cook something? drink sake? >> masa: always, always we did that. smoked cigarettes. >> anthony: yeah. back then did everybody know that you were not going to stay? like, when you were in high school did you talk about, "when i get old enough i'm going to america? i'm not staying here." >> masa: yeah, we did that. [ speaking japanese ] yeah, i told them. >> anthony: now, you weren't dressed up like john wayne or anything right, when you went to school? no cowboy boots. >> masa: no, no. no, no, no. no. ♪ >> anthony: they say you can take the boy out of the country, but you can't take the country out of the boy. i don't know if that's true. we all come from someplace, that's for sure. but, new york city, in masa takayama's case, seems far, far away from the little town he grew up in.

♪ ♪ let us take you now to the island of short memories and a small village of fat hopes. it's hardly featured on any map. but thanks