>> in some cases it's never too early for christmas. thank you so much for joining me this weekend. and don't miss what's coming up tonight on cnn from executive producer anthony bourdain comes the story of america's first celebrity chef, cnn films, jeremiah tower, the last magnificent. that's at 9:00. but first parts up known takes you to puerto rico. don't miss it. have a good night. in september 2017 hurricane maria devastated the american island of puerto rico. at the time of this writing 12 days after the hurricane almost 95% of the island's residents are still without power and close to half don't have clean water. just months prior we shot an episode there hoping to capture the staggering economic crisis the puerto ricans were already dealing with. so now we have to ask ourselves

can the island ever rebuild? and what is our responsibility as americans in making that a reality? it's the american dream, right? what so many of us work for,

sell our labor pieces of our souls for, an island in the sun. preferably one where they speak english and the dollar is accepted everywhere. puerto rico, it's america, right? it's ours and we've held onto it fiercely at times since 1898, after taking it by force during the spanish american war. >> to i want to take you to one of the worst performing economies -- >> $73 billion in debt. >> the highest sales tax of any united states jurisdiction, 11.5%. >> biggest municipal bankruptcy in u.s. history. >> over the last ten years more than 5% of the population has

fled. >> but what's it like for puerto ricans? for the people who live here, whose families have lived here for generations? many have left for an easier life in the states. more keep leaving, but not all. what do you write about most of the time? what do you cover? >> right now i'm covering a lot of politics. >> this journalist is one of those die hards who is sticking it out. >> the more i've done investigative and political journalism in puerto rico, the more i feel a responsibility to stay here and help out my nation. >> somebody called it on the way over the art district. >> this is sort of an art district, but this was a place that was founded by free black

slaves, right. like every working class neighborhood. some people think that puerto rico takes advantage of the states, but it's a two way street. >> right. >> you know? you know? i think this is my friend right here. >> hi. >> how are you? >> like everyone here he and fellow journalists are trying to make sense of a situation that seems cob aesque at best. >> so did you mean question. what is puerto rico? it's not a state. it's kind of like a cologne, but it's not. >> it's an unincorporated territory. >> unincorporated territory. >> yeah. >> yeah. so, you know -- >> what is that? >> we're trying to figure out sometimes. >> would you say the majority of puerto ricans consider themselves americans or puerto ricans or both? >> i think they consider themselves puerto rico with the privilege of having the united

states. >> it's kind of a half acid citizenship. can't vote for president. >> nor congress. >> or congress. you don't have really much voice in your own destiny. >> exactly. you can only go to war. that's the only thing that you can do with rights. >> right. but puerto rico owes, what, $75 billion right now? >> 72, yeah. >> 72. i don't see statehood -- i don't see congress ever taking on a $72 billion debt load. >> exactly. >> especially for a loft people who speak spanish. what's the way out of this? >> oh, my god. >> what about tourism? >> it's an industry of services. >> exactly. >> so service the wealthy and then at the same time you take 450 million out of the university, for example, so you're going to have less educated people willing to do any type of work. >> to survive. yeah. you are not really producing an economy that a person can survive on, you know. this is a country where people

leave, where we do things and we have culture and literature and music and produce intellectual important work. they are selling us as only a good resort to have a pea that colad aand the rich. we actually invented the pina colada. >> even though we're like getting over by a lot of vultures, the people of puerto rico are good people and i think that we're going to get past this. >> the situation here is truly grave. so how exactly did puerto rico find itself so deeply and seemel irrev kaebl screwed? in the early 70 things were looking pretty good for puerto

rico. a tax incentive was introduced which helped lure dozens of major companies to the island, employing significant numbers of people. but when that incentive expired in 2006, concurrent with a major recession in the states, those companies packed up and left. thousands of puerto ricans followed, looking for jobs that no longer existed on the island. the tax base shrunk drastically, creating a dire need for cash to shore up basic needs and services. so along came the municipal bond, a big fat iou that appeared to be salvation for a near broke government. they're sexy for investigators, triple exempt from taxes and bond owners buying puerto rican debt would have to be paid back before anyone. that's anyone.

hedge funds were vulture funds as they are often referred to in these cases had profited from similarly desperate situations in grease, argentina and detroit. as the situation worsened for puerto rico, you could buy up more and more bonds for pennies on the dollar. this was a fire sale too sweet to pass up. and the resulting insurmountable debt, it means drastic austerity measures determined by an unelected board who have the absolute power to raise taxes, empty teachers pension plans, close down schools, hospitals, basically squeeze every dollar out of puerto rico to pay back the funds. every puerto rican is being made to feel the pain. >> i know schools are closing. >> last year 240 schools closed. >> last year alone. >> this year there's a list of 300 schools that are at risk of

shutting down. >> born in puerto rico. >> i was born in chicago, noil. >> in chicago. >> my family came back mostly because our family was here. puerto ricans want the family to stick together. if you can live closer to each other, the better. i decided to stay because i wanted my kids to grow up here. >> better times. >> better times, of course. >> what changed? >> the government took too much loans and couldn't pay them back, so they kept taxes the people, the working class people like me and we cannot pay it. >> like many professionals here, lizza core dova would likely have an easier time of it in the states, but she chooses to stay. >> with the crisis here in puerto rico, mostly i think about my kids where they have the options to stay here and work and have a family. >> okay. so where are we?

>> we are at the -- this is typical 1960, 50 grandmother's house. >> and the food is grandma food? >> it is grandma food, actuall. those are corn from iters with ham, typical sunday after a saturday party. >> hangover food. delicious. >> thank you. so this is like a plan taken soup. >> that's good. >> the specialty here is pass tell elcar dar row, pork marijuana ate in bitter orange, tear row root, green plan tans, squash and gar banso beans slow cooked. and blood sauce age. one of my favorite things. >> it's good? >> it's fantastic. teachers here are being asked to pay into a pension system that has been described as a ponz eye scheme. you take ten% of your income into your pension plan out of

every paycheck. the money you're paying in now is being used to pay. >> the ones that are retired route now. >> the pyramid scheme, but by the time it gets down to you. >> there's no money left. i worry about my future. i don't know what i'm going to live on. i have two jobs in order to pay my bills, have my car, have my house, pay for my kids' education. there's no way with one job as a teacher i can do that. >> so how do you continue? >> i know i'd get paid triple in the states, but i don't want to give up my country. my kids see how their parents struggle and things can change if only one stands up and decides i'm going to do this. we have some power, those children. we have to make them they believe they can change, that there's a better life for them. and i get emotional because sometimes i feel that i failed. i cannot save all of them. that's the truth.

but i can save a lot, and that's my job. so that's what i'm going to do. i have hope. i have faith. i'm taking a jump of faith. >> it's holy week before easter. clearly not a casual affair here. this is a predominantly catholic country still. poupded in deep after 400 years after the spanish empire.

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american citizens all, puerto rico has come into its own, a real democracy. >> more than a hundred years under the wing of the u.s. has left puerto rico without any real economic engine beyond tourism. the old industries are no longer wanted, needed or are no longer

economically viable. agriculture, manufacturing, trade have all shrunk drastically and the island is dependent on u.s. exports for just about everything. so where are we? >> after the liberation of the slave on the island, this is where all the after cans and the slave get together and establish themselves. >> despite or maybe because of the economic turmoil, he saw an opportunity to make something. >> we keep working the formula until my grandmother say whoa,

this is very good. give me more. using the tradition as a weapon, that what make us successful. >> at a local beach about 45 minutes outside san juan, a crab shack that's one of his favorites. >> oh, my god. look at that. >> outstanding. >> excellent. >> land crab? >> land crab, yeah. >> what do you think? >> just knock it open like a lobster. there you go. you see? >> oh, there we go. >> they're very sweet the meat. she just leave it for a few weeks in the cage, feed it with granz to take away the flavor of the man groves. >> why did you think sausage? >> i had the experience as a chef in puerto rico. i knew the necessity. >> right. >> that was in the restaurant for good quality sausages, so i put my little condition to make experiment and i work toward that. >> where were they getting their sausage before you?

>> from the -- >> oh -- >> under the table. there were no inspection by the u.s.d.a. >> can you use entirely puerto rican products? >> i'm in the process. i use the pork shoulder and there is nobody in puerto rico that produce that. >> now, that's tough. right? i mean, correct me if i'm wrong the spanish generally brought pigs with them. >> yeah. >> you can certainly raise pigs here no problem. there's the land for it. why is no one raising pigs in puerto rico? >> 90% of pork meat in puerto rico is come from states. prices is very hard to compete, but that is changing. we still have the resources and the talent that is the most powerful tool that we got. the talent that, you know, to see an opportunity and working forward through that. we have a great generation of young agriculture to go from the countryside to the city. then going back to the

countryside, you know. they don't need nobody to tell, hey, you can't do it. they just make the click. >> so there's hope. >> yeah. humbly, i can say me and my family are an example of what you can do with the tools you've got. >> well said, man. >> yeah. >> these are delicious. >> you can squeeze -- >> believe me, that used to be my job. i used to have to squeeze all the lobster legs with a rolling pin. puerto rico is still inarguably rich in one thing, natural splen dor. beautiful views, unspoiled coastline. but that too is in peril. >> my name is pour chao.

i was born and raised. this pace is so special to me personally because i'm a surfer and i've been surfing here all my life. i want my son to be able to keep coming here, so open, so free of all of these pollutions, all this mayhem. >> he and his fellow activists have occupied this area trying to serve as human shields against the encroachment of a planned development that would transform this place into a massive resort, named appropriately or inappropriately enough after christopher columbus. >> this is our -- >> just a hypothetical question, if the beach is public, what's the problem? >> the project. it's not a believe. it's a mega prompt. it's a five star hotel, 120ville

laz, a mini mall, the biggest casino in the caribbean. we're talking like -- it's not sustainable. >> they're rolling the bull dozers right now. what do you do? >> civil disobedience. we go step in front of the machines and give time for the lawyers to do their case and court and whatnot. >> oh, you've got some lawyers here. >> i've got all the lawyers. >> lawyers go to thebeach. >> hey. >> the chef is making san cochao, the stew of beef, veel and sausages. and there's some fresh caught grouper and red snap per. there aren't many places left like this. that's the point. >> the tourism business in the caribbean is going through a lot of changes. in the short term developers and

construction get paid a lot of money for pouring concrete, but everybody is going to be going to cuba in a few years. why? because it's unspoiled. >> so that's why we have to start talking the same language. you said it, profit. they talk profit, right. let's show them there is profit in nature unspoiled. that reef back t provis us with millions of dollars worth of services, fish tourism, protection from hurricanes annually. that produces a service to us as a community. so if you all of a sudden destroy this, you start losing money. >> could you conceivably settle for a revised project, meaning, okay, no casino, no giant hotel, an eco lodge for super rich people. >> while they have a lot of these things that are developed around communities. >> costa reka and things like that, the goth is conscious about the environment and the amount of money that that environment is the ecosystem brings to the economy. >> do you have any faith in your government at all?

>> no. >> we are an island surrounded by water and we don't produce almost like 90% of the things we consume, which makes us needy. it makes us a third world country. third world country which belongs to the most powerful nation. that's a lot of motivation of the people of puerto rico right now. it's not about independence or not. it's about what is right. what the people needs. >> it's coming out of the comfort zone and realizing that if you don't do anything right now, we're just going to get run over. >> other puerto ricans want to quit, they can leave. i won't quit. hand-pressed moroccan argan and camellia oils, garnier whole blends illuminating haircare indulges hair with moisture. for luminous shine. garnier whole blends argan & camellia oils. find every blend at walmart.

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♪ ♪ ♪ >> puerto rico is, of course, easy to love. i sure do. firstel, because puerto rican culture as a new yorker since age 17 was part of the cell tissue of the city i lived in so long. there are many layers to the

culture here. first, of course, were the indigenous peoples of the islands. then the spanish, followed by african slaves. this tradition probably goes all the way back. >> look at that. >> as old school and as awesome as it gets. a timeless classic, something that's been good forever. >> the baby is in the house. >> pretty. >> beautiful, huh? >> a great idea that will never be anything less than great. put a pig on a stick and turn him slowly, slowly over a low

fire. >> do you want some of the skin. >> hell, yeah. >> 25 minutes up in the hills from san juan, it is the tradition that celebrates pork, the whole damn pig in ways that can only be described as spiritual. >> he's a puerto rican samurai. >> he's one of many such places, but this one, this one is special. he has for nearly 50 years of his life been perfecting the art of the perfect slow roasted suck ling pig. he starts work at 4:00 a.m. it takes six hours on the slowly, slowly turning spit to get it right.

>> no, ma'am, rotation, fire, time, mast erg the heat because there's no thermometer or anything. >> right. >> and you can see like it's really crispy but still really juicy. >> that's incredible. what's that? that looks good. >> stew. it's one of my favorite. >> she begins her day making the traditional stew made from pig's heart, liver and kid nis. >> that's really nice. >> how is business? the economy has been tough. do they feel it or -- >> everybody has felt it. the restaurants, food trucks, everybody. but whole hog is more like a family gallery. this is something so classic. >> chef favors puerto rican dishes and ingredients that have been largely forgotten.

>> when you move to one place and they tell you, yeah, yeah, you i went to puerto rico. that sucks. i hate that because we have a lot of really good stuff here and it's our job to keep it alive and show it to the world. i say, hey, we are more than a fast food. we got to go back to farming. >> because you don't want to be buying everything from -- >> of course. at my restaurant i started six years ago with just two farmers. now we have more than 15, 16 farmers. it's like a chain. you go to many farmers and you ask them, like, i have this type of food -- they don't have it because people start buying the local root vegetable because the imported one is a whole lot cheaper and that's all they have in their mind. but if you go to a farmer and you tell the farmer i'm going to buy your product, the farmer is going to start having a product. >> paying more is a hard argument to make when people are struggling. >> if we don't change our mind, i don't know what's going to happen with the island. >> do people listen and say,

look, it's not particularly pate on theic. you're not helping your country by eating at mcdone always and shopping at walmart. >> yes. we have a lot of different times of puerto ricans. we have this puerto rican that, yes, i love my island but they don't think more ahead. they simply think i'm happy with what i have. the other type of puerto rican, they know that it's going to be hard, want to grow, keep running, stay here, develop what they have on the island. >> there's a good argument for it, man. this is incredible. i could eat this all day. ronoh really?g's going on at schwab. thank you clients? well jd power did just rank them highest in investor satisfaction with full service brokerage firms... again. and online equity trades are only $4.95... i mean you can't have low cost and be full service. it's impossible.

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in the life doesn't suck department, this is way up there. a means of conveyance i find quite comfortable.

barefoot and a bit drupg, pleasantly burned by the sun, lunch approaches. >> if you need any prep done, any knife work, just let me know. >> first time using a knife? >> it's been a while. >> you got talent. >> yeah, if this tv thing falls through, i can always work at den any. >> all these dishes are traditional holy friday food. this one is salted cod mayor natured in coconut milk and then we cedar it. and boil eggs from our farmers. here we have the -- >> fried fish, pick he would. >> fried local mackerel and then i roast all the vegetables for at least a week.

>> the salt fish is good. coconut milk really takes that salty -- it's awesome. within the commonwealth of puerto rico, the main island a mere eight miles away. it is phenomenon alley peaceful here, but it hasn't always been that way. for over 60 years the island was used as a bombing range for the u.s. navy and for training exercises. the soil is rich with depleted uranium, agent orange, the kind of good stuff left over after 60

years of explosives raining down on it. many see a clear connection between that recent history and a cancer rate that is 30% higher than the rest of puerto rico. while the navy works to cleanup what it left, it tries to deal with the financial crisis in its own ways. chef erica bu long grew up here is and has raised her family here. she invited me to a meal at her home, joining us are her mother and son, her two nieces and her best friend elda. >> where was the bombing range? >> pretty close here. two miles. maybe less. >> that was part of the navy land. >> what did the navy stop using it as a bombing range. >> 2003. >> that's not that long ago. >> yep. >> so you'd be eating lunch and you'd hear boom boom.

>> yes. >> and still they debt nature bomb. >> this is left over order natures. >> this is the cloon up process. they debt nature them all together. >> and the house move with the bombing. it's like middle of the war. >> and you've lived here for how long. >> all my life. >> me too. all my life. >> i've been hearing a fair amount of this lately. this one is flavored with -- >> as ollia. >> who is joining me? >> salute. >> salute. >> good. i'm not driving after this. lobsters with mashed and yucca from the garden. congress salad. >> it's really beautiful here. this is not san juan. this is much more lush. >> no fast food. >> born and raised in paradise. >> awesome snets. >> the whole world wants what you have already. how is the economy here?

>> we are like the kol any of a kol any. >> basic theel the biggest employer is the municipal government. >> the number one employer on vee a kes is the local government. >> yeah. we also have this dynamic that people that study and make a profession, ten% come back and that's a high number. there's no jobs for them. so our population is getting older and it's formed by retired people. >> right of the where are they going? >> main island or united states. >> what's the plan when you guys grow up? what do you want to do? >> i want to be a chef. >> a chef? good for you. it's hard. your dream restaurant, where would it be? >> main island. >> you see. >> so in 20 years. >> scary. >> who is going to live -- >> not our kids. >> who will be in charge? >> not locals. not people that studied here.

>> the land is too expensive for the local people. >> so this will be vacation homes for wealthy people from other countries? >> yeah. yeah. >> basically. >> yeah. >> who will save puerto rico? who will save see a kez. >> it's ourselves. >> how? >> how? i don't know. i don't know how keeping me from the things i love to do. talk to your doctor, and call 844-214-2424. like new savory grilled with mediterranean shrimp, topped with a blend of green onions, tomatoes, and herbs. and your favorites, like garlic shrimp scampi. now's the only time to try as much as you want, however you want 'em. so hurry in today. the amazing new iphone 8 is at at&t... and we know you'll love it. because we know you want more. more great camera features and more power. and more than just unlimited data,

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life on vee a kez offers the kind of freedom, the kind of beautiful views that have largely disappeared in the developed world, but life can be difficult. there is little agriculture or economy to sustain the people who live here. at one of the highest spots the sea visible in the distance is a small but sustainable farm found founded by jorge intent to providing local restaurants with fruit, honey and medicinal

herbs. >> i live and work here. we run a productive and educational agricultural project. we farm. we have the land and the resources to produce food that is economically viable, that is self sustaining without a lot of investment. it's liberating. >> he cooks lunch. grouper stuffed with lobster and white eggplant. wrapped in ban an aleaves and

grilled over mesquite. mashed plan tanz with sew free toe. >> all right. and it looks good. and what's this here? >> and that's -- >> i know what that is. >> actually, we call it like teardrop of the mountain. >> will i be crying afterwards? >> maybe. it's very intense. >> salute. how long have you had this farm? how long have you been doing this? >> he started the farm around ten years now, but the farm was originally part of the navy too and so it's part of the rescues that happened throughout the 80s, 90s. >> farming is difficult work. >> yeah. >> so why? >> my mom would ask the same question. she was like why are you doing -- are you quitting your job that in puerto rico it's really hard to find a good job, but i

think that farming is the most practical thing that we can do in the midst of crisis. >> the thing that's going to create work. it's going to help the economy. >> it's a blunt question, but can you make money farming. >> in puerto rico it's still a challenge because obviously we got a lot of food that's super subsidiesed from the u.s., but many people who are our neighbors are like i'll pay >> xavier: that's part of my statement. it's part of educating people. since our generation, supermarkets, supermarkets. >> ana: we were consciously stripped away from farming. people were forced out of the country to be able to work in all these maquiladora and everything. kids here were completely disconnected from, and my generation, from where things grow. we do an exercise with local schools and kids draw a plantain growing like a lettuce. >> anthony: i mean the last thing the states wants is for puerto rico to become sustainable because that means

it's going to buy less stuff. less snacks, less pepsi, less american products. we don't like that. >> ana: if we don't have our own food supply then we can't even think about really being able to govern ourselves. if we can feed ourselves then we can free ourselves. [ jorge speaking spanish ] >> ana: he says that the message in itself is you. to start with you. to teach by doing, by the work. i saw the change in rich when we moved into the new house. but having his parents over was enlightening. ♪ you don't like my lasagna? no, it's good. -hmm. -oh. huh. [ both laugh ] here, blow. blow on it. you see it, right? is there a draft in here? i'm telling you, it's so easy to get home insurance on progressive.com. progressive can't save you from becoming your parents. but we can save you money when you bundle home and auto.

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money managers are pretty much the same. all but while some push high commission investment products, fisher investments avoids them. some advisers have hidden and layered fees. fisher investments never does. and while some advisers are happy to earn commissions from you whether you do well or not, fisher investments fees are structured so we do better when you do better. maybe that's why most of our clients come from other money managers. fisher investments. clearly better money management. ♪

♪ >> anthony: hello, hi. >> cristina: these are my friends. >> tito: want some beer? >> anthony: yeah, sure. it's so beautiful here. >> tito: salud man. >> anthony: thanks for having me. >> anthony: tito auger is a beloved singer-songwriter. cristina rivera-miró is his fiancée. he lives on the outskirts of vega alta, where he grew up. >> tito: i've been playing for 20 years now. i write very specific songs about my town, my country. i'm not trying to sell any dreams but i tell everybody that

we have it inside of us to make it to the other side. >> tito: do you want to come inside and meet the chefs? >> anthony: in the kitchen, they're putting together quite the feast. >> anthony: how are you man? >> tito: this is my bass player and chef. >> anthony: okay good someone in the band who can cook, that's good. essential. ♪ >> all: salud. >> anthony: mollejas con guineitos, sautéed chicken gizzards and green bananas. >> anthony: wow that's good. >> anthony: codfish fritters. carne guisada, a beef stew cooking since the morning. traditional mofongo. >> tito: it's like, what we call our food, you know? and these guys do a nice twist to it. >> anthony: and you make a living as a working musician

just on the island? >> tito: i do but i'm lucky. i'm like one of the few ones. you can play around the island but it's really hard to get heard. everything comes from the outside. the radio station don't support local music. >> anthony: do you have any faith in your political leadership? >> both: no. >> anthony: every time i ask this question nobody pauses. >> cristina: we don't think about it, there's no hesitation. it's no. >> tito: what happened with us is that you don't know where the blame is. you don't know if you want to blame washington for this. you don't know if you have to blame our leaders for that. >> anthony: why would a bank front 70-plus billion dollars into an economy that had been in decline for quite some time. did they ever really have any reasonable expectation of getting their money back or was this a cheap way of buying a country? >> all: yeah. >> tito: thank you! ding, ding, ding! >> cristina: it's not rocket science. we need money so develop whatever. we're giving it all away. >> tito: it's like they're selling out their country and they're pushing us out, that's what it feels like.

>> anthony: what about move on and [ bleep ] this i'm going to florida? >> man in black shirt: i still want to live here, i still want to have that view, i still want to breathe this air. >> tito: we should get the chance to just be ourselves you know? i'd rather have us dealing with it than being in no control at all of anything. like we are right now. >> man in black shirt: we need to change the way we think. we have been taught that we can't do it. >> cristina: we are preconditioned to think that we need the support of the u.s. if we decide to be an independent country you have to go through a process of being on our own and we have never done that. we have to start from scratch we don't have agriculture. we don't have production, anything. >> tito: it can be tough. and i hope that we can fight for ourselves. to inspire people, to give them strength, to resist. obviously music is good for that. ♪

♪ [ singing in spanish ] ♪

♪ >> anthony: hi, i'm anthony bourdain. for those of you tuning in to see "parts unknown," i've got something even better planned for you -- well, almost. a special film about the most important chef in america that maybe you never even heard of. he revolutionized the american restaurant experience. he was the uber celebrity chef, and then he disappeared. join me as we explore the life, ti