tv Anthony Bourdain Parts Unknown CNN January 14, 2018 8:00pm-9:00pm PST
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♪ ♪ the narrow streets and neatly dressed school children of zanzibar of stone town make it feel like a very different africa than i've ever known. it's tight, small. it speaks of many layers. of a hierarchy long gone but still evident. the famous zanzibari doors, for instance, meticulously carved of mahogany and teak. the patterns reveal details of the original inhabitants' ethnicity and professions. brass spikes evoke similar doors in india, the lotus flower, the
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historically egyptian symbol is meant to promote fertility and chains a reminder that this was once a central hub of the slave trade. ♪ ♪ what zanzibar is today is definitely overwhelmingly muslim. 99% of the population. and you see its strong influence everywhere you look. the children coming from the madrassa, the streets are neat and private homes even of the very poor are maintained with great pride. the call to prayer. five times a day. zanzibar, part of tanzania, sits
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30 miles off the coast of the mainland. >> the minute you cross the ocean from the mainland, the minute you enter stone town, you feel like you're in a different country and different culture, different vibe. >> he is a native zanzibari and former tour guide, and he knows his way around these parts. so what are our options here? >> this is mandazi. >> a classic swahili treat. a fried fritter, spiced with cumin, tumeric and coriander. >> do you want a cup of coffee? >> yeah, let's do it. if you live here, if you're from here, chances are you start your day with some bitter spiced coffee, talk about the issues of the day and politics for one. maybe a pastry. >> you like it? >> oh, that's good. so you're born and bred here. >> in zanzibar. >> how long has your family been
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here? how far back to you guys go? >> i'm half indian, half africaen, my family has been here four generations. >> four generations so that's starting out in -- >> late 1700s. >> wow. who built stonetown? who built this neighborhood? >> construction started in about 1813. the portuguese colony. we had portuguese, right. they stayed from 1846. they left in 1964. but they lost a lot of power in 1896. >> confused? let's take a step back. the persians were the first major power to set up here around 975 a.d., expanding their empire onto the strategically positioned island. then the portuguese used zanzibar as a hub for their slave trade and spices. then the omanis did the same ultimately with the british who ruled through them. 1964, revolution. as with most revolutions, the days following were violent,
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chaotic and ugly. after overthrowing the mostly arab government, reprisals. >> it wasn't intended for revolution where more than 3,000 arabs were slaughtered, and a lot of indians were slaughtered or moved out of this country. >> but your family stayed. >> my family stayed. >> why? >> there was no money for them in the family to move out. >> it wasn't an option. >> no option. >> stick with what was left. >> yes. >> tough times. >> very tough times. >> and about two hours from stone town, this is jambiani, a tiny fishing village. here the first revolutionaries would meet and plan for an independent zanzibar. zanzibar's first post revolutionary president served until his assassination in 1972. this too is the grandson of the country's first president.
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what was the situation back then, the political situation back then? >> it wasn't good. basically it was english on top. arabs in the middle and africans way, way at the bottom. it was a form of apartheid, you know? >> was this village sort of a center for revolutionary -- >> this village was important in terms of the political support prior to the revolution when my grandfather and my grandmother standing right here an they had meetings on the field, right over there. that's where they would have their meetings, to raise support for the african and chorazi people, their identity. objective was to give equal rights to all people of zanzibar. of course, revolutions aren't the best things sometimes when it comes to peaceful transition. well, this is the house where they are preparing a wonderful lunch for us. [ speaking a foreign language ]
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>> this is mwacca. she used to take care of my grandmother many, many years ago. [ laughter ] [ speaking in foreign language ] >> looking forward to lunch. >> mwacca was a close family friend to habeed and his grandparents, and she's putting together quite a spread. coconut rice, freshly caught fish called tassi simmered in broth of garlic and lime and topped with a fresh salad of chopped tomato, cucumber and eggplant. another fish, mackerel, marinated in lime juice and garlic then pan fried. >> now this is good. >> whoa. that's looking good. so coconut rice. >> yeah. >> chapati bread. >> yep. >> this is from the other side of the water there. >> that's it.
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this is casaba. >> casaba. three different types of bread. >> what a spread here. >> and you can use your hands. >> good. the fish i can do by hand, the rice, i will need help. mm-mm, good. what do you think of the casaba? >> lovely. the rice is great, too. whatever your feelings on revolutions, it is probably worth remembering that they start in places like this. people talking. and when they are won, they're often won by people who sat at the feet of the original planners, people who look like this. look at all these kids. watch out, future revolutionaries. >> exactly. new ideas coming in to change things come from them. think about it. the challenges we face as a small island country, doesn't the whole world face these challenges?
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>> yeah. >> how to preserve all these things, how to find balance. to me, i see africa as a whole, i see very interesting times. >> hopeful? >> i'm very hopeful actually. >> optimistic? >> i'm optimistic. i think the zanzibar people are great people. and if given the opportunity, i think they can put a lot on the table, not only for themselves but also for the culture of east africa and possibly even the world. i think they're great people. why not? sky's the limit, right? ward the. go, go, go, go, go! we can fit more! there's still more room! we gotta go. juicer! we don't have a juicer! the volkswagen tiguan. it fits everything you need, and everything you don't.
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every night, vendors set up an insane variety of every iteration of seafood snack. oh, boy, i'd love some of that. >> we go some shrimp. we have octopus, calamari. we have scallop, shellfish, a mussel, a small shell, we have a tuna fish, mahi-mahi and red sflaper. >> good. i think let me try some of the . >> good. i think let me try some of thns. >> good. i think let me try some of thas. >> good. i think let me try some of thps. >> good. i think let me try some of thps. >> good. i think let me try some of ther. >> good. i think let me try some of the octopus. >> with marsala spice. but it is not hot. >> i like hot. all right. give me some chili mango with that. all right. good. mm-mm. octopus, chewy, but tasty. lobster's working for me. too spicy for you, man. nah, believe me.
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only one of us is going to be shitting like a mink tonight, and it's not going to be you. ♪ ooh. the famous zanzibar pizza, awesome. >> fresh cheese. mayonnaise with egg. >> sounds awesome to me. lookin' good. thank you. mm-mm. weird and wonderful and mm. damn. these stands are extremely popular with locals and visitors alike. so, of course, the government raised the rents. one guy, juma, decided to pick
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up and move his place a bit out of town. his customers came with him. hey, juma, how are you? so what are we having? >> beef on a stick, chicken on a stick. half chicken and all the spices and sauces. i'll order beef for now. >> beef, good, let's have chicken. >> chicken? >> yeah, sure. [ speaking a foreign language ] >> juma is famous for his chicken. the bird is slathered with a mixture of garlic, lime, coriander, ginger, salt and pepper, then grilled and served whole pieces with tamarin chili sauce. >> they spend all night preparing and cutting, then they come here at 6:30 and finish about 10:00. >> how many guys work in here? >> there's about six, seven of them. >> six or seven of them? >> all around the table. >> wow, this is a big operation. >> okay. he's finishing the skewers.
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i guess he's half cooking or saucing. he's reheating, finishing the skewers. that guy just does the setup of plates for him to top with meat. and they've got the bread and sauce and finishing to go also. what are they squirting on the fries? >> hot sauce, ketchup and tamara rin. >> you never go hungry. >> if you come here to buy 10 skewers, you buy 20 or 30 because somebody is always asking for food. >> right. >> and you always buy it. it's just the culture. no one says no to each other for the food. >> there we go. >> and you use the stick as your fork. ♪ >> hot, hot, hot. where do you think the recipe
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came from? this is a real mixed-up history here. >> it's mostly arabic, indian components. the spices, most of the trees like mangos came from india. pineapples came from brazil. >> tamarin. southeast asia. not even india. mm-mm. damn, that's good. hey. this chicken's really awesome. might need some more of this. i like the heat. whoo. good stuff. incredible. ♪ >> the 250-mile flight from zanzibar across the water to the town of arusha takes just an hour and a half, but culturally you might as well be flying from texas to the philippines. [ bell ringing ] >> kilimanjaro. into whose white peak hemingway's gangrenous hero saw himself disappear as he slipped
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once a massive volcano that somewhere around 2.5 million years ago collapsed in on itself, creating this caldera, a true, lost world. inside the crater, an entire ecosystem within an ecosystem. wildlife pretty much stay put. coming to drink, well, right below my place. it's nice. very, very nice, if you find yourself here. a hot bubble bath awaits after a long day in the bush. perhaps a dry sherry from a cut glass decanter. the next morning ones rises to breakfast in one's chambers on the balcony perhaps. silver service, hot coffee, freshly baked croissant. morning. thank you, sir. >> you're welcome, sir. >> the rules of the house, while slightly restricting, sensible
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enough. and given the luxurious surroundings and the view hardly a burden. you're not supposed to wander around at night by yourself, there's elephants and hyenas and stuff. and while i'm told the baboons can get rapey, there were no knocks on the door. you know, i know what you're thinking already. you're not going to do what i think you're going to do, are you? you're not going to go shoot some beautiful animal in the brain, no. answer, no? what kind of sick -- wants to shoot an elephant? even the toilet has a nice view. this is pretty much what you see as you're sitting on the snakes. idyllic natural setting. and good plumbing. it's pretty much paradise. ♪ the winter of '77. i first met james in 5th grade.
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after a short while, you actually get used to the "jungle book" scene playing out in front of your car. it's interesting to see the giraffe and wildebeest and zebra and they all seem to hang out with each other, no conflict at all. >> pretty much there's no conflict in what they want to eat. it starts with elephants, buffaloes taking the big stuff out. zebras follow out and then the wildebeest are the really close crop. >> my guard is collin mcconnell. a fourth generation african born in kenya. he lives in tanzania and knows this area like i know the deli counter at barney's. >> so this is the edge of the woodland here. every tree you see lying on its side hasn't fallen over out of choice, it's been pushed over by
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elephants. there's an elephant over there. >> oh, yeah. whoa. >> a big bull. >> magnificent. will he charge us? >> nah. >> if we piss him off? >> if we pissed him off, he would. ♪ they sleep so soundly, these zebra, you can creep right up. >> zebras and more zebras. so many, you almost get bored seeing a herd of them. giraffes looking only slightly irritated to be interrupted. and ever-more massive herds, stadium sized masses of
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wildebee wildebeest. all that's missing is the happy sound. >> everybody's come to terms that the wildebeest migration means wildebeest jumping into rivers. that only happens two months out of the whole year. the rest of the year they're trekking through the bush. to me, this is so much more spectacular. when you see these big numbers. you'll be in an area this morning that was full of wildebeest and go there this afternoon and there's not one. they've moved. >> thousands and thousands of wildebeests on their annual migration are everywhere. a big circle stretched out across tanzania and into kenya in search of prime grazing. it's all about water and grass and a good place to make babies. >> i mean, look at this little guy. he's keeping up with his mom. >> he's doing okay. >> within 15 minutes of being born, they're up and standing, >> really. >> running as fast as their moms
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within a couple of hours. there's a wildebeest that didn't make it. >> how old is that? >> a day or two. >> oh, really? >> yeah. >> wow. >> you don't want to get lost here. you definitely don't want to be on foot outside your car or injured, for instance. nature, as they say, is a cruel mistress. it takes care of its own without mercy. the evidence of this cruel math called survival is everywhere. not an immediate family, you're not going to help a brother out. >> no, you would think, right? >> start limping, first come the hyenas. >> the hyenas see the vultures dropping and that's a key to them that there's some food up and the vultures really need the hyena to rip open the skin and start eating it. >> at the time they finish ripping out your soft parts, treating your femur like a chew toy, the vultures and the storks lovingly called the undertaker birds are waiting for their turn.
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i don't know about you, but when i have cause to think about hyenas ripping into an ass and ripping out the guts, i think, you know what? i could really go for pesto right now. by lake mosak, we pause for lunch. indigenous specialties like penne with pasta, steamed baby corn, grilled tomatoes with snow peas and parmesan and brownies. >> those hippos are coming in close. >> yeah. they can smell the pasta. >> they love pesto. they're coming ashore. >> you're safe. >> over thankfully cold beers, i learn who is really the most dangerous animal around here. yeah. that's right, mr. loveable, funny hippo. always in a tutu in the cartoons, a vicious, unpredictable and apparently incredibly fast-moving killer. >> you know, you have to leave here and go for a pee behind the tree and come face-to-face with this hippo. the hippo would easily outrun you, one big chomp.
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big tusks go straight through you, chop you in half. >> just get between them and their mudhole, and they'll be all over you like justin bieber's bodyguards. it can get ugly. what do hippo penises look like? >> i have no idea. >> the hippo never emerges from the water with like a big -- >> no. >> a hippo hard-on? >> not that i've seen. >> really? >> no. they're under water. i don't go snorkeling. >> i find that comforting to know. (vo) dogs have evolved, but their nutritional needs remain instinctual. that's why there's purina one true instinct. nutrient-dense, protein-rich, real meat number one. this is a different breed of natural nutrition. purina one, true instinct. my healthy routine helps me feel my best. so i add activia yogurt to my day.
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♪ they are among the last great warrior tribes on earth. semi-nomadic, they believe that all the world's cattle are a gift of the gods to them, the maasai people. they move with their animals across the tanzanian plains setting up homes where they find the best grazing. ♪ their cattle are everything, the wealth of the family, units of currency, givers of milk to live
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and on special occasions of meat and blood. the maasai construct their villages or bomas like this as strategic hamlets designed to repel and discourage predators. >> do have you a lot of livestock coming in here? a lot of the migratory game, they've taken off. this area's quite famous for the cats, the big cats. >> the big cats, lions, roam free here, an area of the serengeti. >> it's a paradox. the lions are an enemy and a competitor but they're also something they greatly admire. >> swedish native angela janssen, a field biologist with the serengeti biology project, is trying to find the identity of the maasai people and the
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outside's view of these killing machines. this is what happens when a warrior defending his cattle takes on a hungry lion. nobody wants this. for the maasai, being apprised of the comings and goings of the lion population is important. take evasive action than the alternative. but remember, too, and respect that the masai have always defined themselves and their identities by their enemy. a tribe of proud warriors. what happens when there's no one and nothing to fight? ♪ ingela has brought several masai on to her team to show them up close the lions they share this land with. >> it's often on my days when i'm working with the masai, you don't eat or you get a cup of tea in the morning. then if you're lucky in the
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rainy season, you either get fresh milk or this. >> this is a lassi, by the way, a lumpy, yogurt-like drink essential to the masai diet. >> cheers. >> cheers. >> and before you say yuck, it might be worth noting that between their nearly 100% protein of beef, blood and dairy, the maasai are known to have superhuman cardio. olympic level stamina. they can run miles at a time without rest or water and can basically kick your ass at near any physical contest given half the chance. so help yourself to some sour, lumpy goodness. not bad. a little honey, some raisins in there. you'll be good to go. >> uh-huh. >> it's so different here. like the rainy season, dry season, such different challenges. what do you think of going on to here? >> i'm okay with it.
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currently ingela has been tracking two lions in particular. ramos and pujon. >> oh, ramos is there. savvy. you see him? >> i see -- yes, there they are. i see them. wow, two of them. >> yeah. >> you like them, don't you? >> oh, they're magnificent. they're very admirable. he's a bit of a worrier, that one. should we try and approach them? >> yeah. >> when you go for lions, you don't never drive straight on them. >> right. >> you kind of go at an angle.
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that relaxes them. it's funny how they pretend they don't see you. they're so completely aware. so, basically, what we look at to try to identify them are the spots, it's like their fingerprint. puncture wound on his face. that means he's fighting with a female like if they fight with another competitor, male, the wounds will be on the back. it's too dangerous to go for the head area if they're fighting. the reason for the collars, to see how lions behave to cope with threats in the area to show that lions and the maasai can actually stay together. they've always lived together. for the masai, one of the diminishing things for them is large rain.
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the same resource that the lions need. if push came to shove and one part had to go, it wouldn't be the wildlife. that's bringing in far too much money for this country. so if they can show that they're actually fundamental to protecting this area and protecting the lions, well, then, it's the better for them as well. >> what's the total population of lions, do you think, countrywide? >> tanzania probably has 25% to 50% of the total population of lions. it's an important country for it. the last estimate was 30,000 lions remaining. i think it's not so much the worry of the size, but it's the rapid decrease. we've lost large predators in the big part of the world. the world carries on. you would probably have other predators to take their place. you know, that'd be the hyenas, that'd be the cheetahs, that would be the leopards. of course, they couldn't take
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the big prey like the lion does. if you think about it that way, lions are a big show of an ecosystem that is healthy. they're important to that. 20, 22 hours of the day they relax. the female, you see sleeping cats lie. >> they are beautiful. s are uny as a meteor heads toward the metro area. go, go, go, go, go! we can fit more! there's still more room! we gotta go. juicer! we don't have a juicer! the volkswagen tiguan. it fits everything you need, and everything you don't.
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coming at you with my brand-new vlog. just making some ice in my freezer here. so check back for that follow-up vid. this is my cashew guy bruno. holler at 'em, brun. kicking it live and direct here at the fountain. should i go habanero or maui onion? should i buy a chinchilla? comment below. did i mention i save people $620 for switching? chinchilla update -- got that chinchilla after all. say what up, rocco. ♪ say what up, rocco. ...nausea, heartburn, when indigestion, upset stomach, diarrhea! nausea, heartburn, indigestion, upset stomach, diarrhea! here's pepto bismol!
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crater's rim, this village, about 400 masai live here. oladorup is the chief. he has 4 wives, 12 children, a handful of whom are old enough to be out looking after the herds. >> where are you from, tony? >> i was born in new jersey, live in new york. >> oh. >> you have a son in new jersey, huh? >> yes, yes. starting in one of the colleges known as montclair state. >> oh, yes, i know montclair very well. >> oh, yeah? >> near where i grew up. >> oh, yes. >> look at that cloud there. there's going to be some downpour. do you think it comes here? >> no. >> not us? >> it's funny, they always know what the clouds are doing. the weather reports out here. >> the masai have been migrating
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with the season since they came to this part of africa some time in the 15th century. long, long before the serengeti became a national park. and here we run into the kind of existential conflict we'll be seeing more and more of as the world decides what they value most. unspoiled expanses of nature populated still with magnificent wild but aggressively protected animals or the indigenous people. >> the aim for our project is promoting co-existence with lions. so when i came here to start up lion guardians, there were many among the masai that were suspicious. they thought this was going to lead to us being kicked out. that's a constant fear in this area. >> because in the past, and they kill. but today we stop that. or we can kill if no way. >> if you have no alternative. >> yeah. that's why we have the spear.
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we carry the spear for protection only. >> the masai, they trust that we're not here to take them out. we're here to work with them. and we're foreseeing we're going to be able to start the lion guardian project. we hire masai to protect the lions rather than kill them. >> with all of the cattle the masai people have, how do you protect them from predators? >> the animals are very smart enough. if you do not bother them, they do not bother you. >> so, how about when they're grazing? >> uh-huh. when they're grazing we have people who follow. >> and that's enough to discourage hyenas or lions? >> uh-huh, uh-huh. yes, yes. but sometimes there are happy lions, so they make themselves show that they are very happy, and the way to make is to say woo! woo! woo! ooh! ooh! that's make happy, you know. if you just like to catch something, you can hear very
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close only like rrrrrrrr, rrrrrr, and they'll stop. but that's a loud woo! >> that's a happy? >> that's a happy. >> no problem. >> no problem. >> but that purring one, that second noise, that's not good? >> that one is not good. >> that's not a here kitty situation? >> this is, oh, must looking for finding food. maybe. >> okay. my cat hates me. >> yeah. >> okay. this, a lot of you are going to find very disturbing. i'm guessing the little goat over there is about to get the bad news? >> come now. and touch this. >> i try and be a good guest. i eat what my hosts put in front of me.
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i try to take responsibility if something dies for my dinner. >> stand here? >> no, no, no. here. >> this is the heart. >> ole: no, no, no, here. >> anthony: and just hold -- >> ole: hold this really hard. >> anthony: so when the chief asked if i cared to do the honors and tells me how it has to be done, i'm not happy. in fact, as i close off its air passages i'm struggling not to throw up on myself. >> ole: now he is ready, yep. tony, do you know how to skin it? >> anthony: uh, not well enough. >> ole: i can show you, maybe i can show you, and then i can go ahead, okay? >> anthony: the maasai traditionally kill their goats by suffocation, for very good reason, it turns out -- to keep
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the blood, which is a vital component for the maasai diet, intact and abundant in the chest cavity. >> ole: now continue now to slaughter that, take the skin out. so you can cut here. >> anthony: just right through? >> ole: yeah. oh good. here now, you cut like this. good. then continue like this. more, yep, a little more, good. >> anthony: yeah, everything's intact. beautiful. >> ole: the -- this blood, so all the blood. >> anthony: right. so it filled up the cavity and started to get coagulated. >> ole: yes, yes, yes. >> anthony: i get it now. >> ole: it's easier now to take the blood out. >> anthony: right, wow. >> ole: yeah. >> anthony: that's really -- i've never seen that. that's super cool. >> ole: yes. someone like to drink fresh? >> anthony: sure. hey, not bad.
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>> ole: oh, it's good. people they eat this one fresh. >> anthony: that's a kidney. >> ole: yeah, you like a piece? >> anthony: just a little piece, little. deed done, it's time for a little kidney. enjoy the spoils, then party. it's sweet, actually. that's good. i like it better like this than cooked. no artificial flavors, no artificial preservatives in any of the food we sell. we believe in real food. whole foods market. here's the story of green mountain coffee roasters sumatra reserve. let's go to sumatra. the coffee here is amazing. because the volcanic soil is amazing. so we give farmers like win more plants. to grow more delicious coffee. which helps provide for win's family. all, for a smoother tasting cup of coffee. green mountain coffee roasters.
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you can do it. we can do this. at fidelity, our online planning tools are clear and straightforward so you can plan for retirement while saving for the things you want to do today. -whoo! while saving for the things i recently discovered that a good source of protein. that's why they're my go-to snack while i get back in shape. that one's broken. i no wondering, "what if?" uncertainties of hep c. i let go of all those feelings. because i am cured with harvoni. harvoni is a revolutionary treatment for the most common type of chronic hepatitis c. it's been prescribed to more than a quarter million people. and is proven to cure up to 99% of patients who've have had no prior treatment with 12 weeks. certain patients can be cured with just 8 weeks of harvoni. before starting harvoni, your doctor will test to see if you've ever had hepatitis b,
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>> ole: that is smelling good, that's -- >> ingela: yeah, it's true, they're smelling good. i'm not too much a meat eater, but this i kinda like the goat. >> anthony: even on the serengeti, it ain't a barbecue if there ain't some kind of beer. >> ole: normally we, the maasai, we love honey. we have -- we have called honey beer. you drink, it tastes very strong. so we have it here. >> anthony: i'd love to try some. [ speaking maasai ]
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>> anthony: i've noticed a palpable change in the mood. [ ole speaking maasai ] >> ole: here. [ ingela speaking maasai ] [ ole speaking maasai ] >> anthony: not bad. >> ingela: pretty tasty. ooh, it's refreshing as well. >> anthony: it's like a palm wine. or even like, kinda pulque-like taste also. >> ingela: you can definitely taste the honey. the sweetness of it. >> anthony: yeah. >> ole: according to our culture, everyone has to carry a big knife. >> anthony: everybody's ready. >> ole: yeah. >> anthony: many aspects of their lifestyle and traditions
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remain unchanged. awesome. this does not mean the maasai don't have cell phones by the way. everybody does. >> ole: as you say, we are talking about how can we balance this because we're now looking to send our children to school, getting a good education. but we still are staying a very strong culture. yeah, it's really -- it can be, like, a hard time but, uh, we continue. >> anthony: well, that's another question. you know? when your son comes back from new jersey -- you know, is your son going to want a motorcycle? is he going to want a car? is he going to want a flat-screen tv? >> ole: uh, i don't know for the future because, uh, as you know the children they are very quickly changing their mind. maybe one day come in as new jersey boy, i don't know.
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>> anthony: it's beautiful this country, this part of africa. geographically huge, but not really, as the world and what we need to live in it shrinks everyday. who gets to live here? who or what do we want to see? is for better or worse going to determine that? nearly $1.5 billion is spent here every year by people who come wanting to look mostly at beautiful animals. that as an amount is hard to argue with and impossible to outrun.
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