♪ felt the cool rain on my shoulder ♪ ♪ found something good in this beautiful world ♪ ♪ i felt the rain getting colder ♪ >> anthony: everything changes. nothing changes at all. ♪ i took a walk through this beautiful world ♪ ♪ felt the cool rain on my shoulder ♪ ♪ found something good in this beautiful world ♪

♪ i felt the rain getting colder ♪ ♪ sha, la, la, la, la, ♪ sha, la, la, la, la, la, ♪ sha, la, la, la, la,, ♪ sha, la, la, la, la, la ♪ >> anthony: drinking at four-thirty in the afternoon --it's the perfect time. the light is just right. that's important. also it's not too crowded, it's quiet. a man can have a drink in a pint. dignified fashion. free of care.

>> bartender: ice, hun? >> anthony: no, thank you. >> bartender: there you go. >> anthony: thank you so much. >> bartender: so you're on holiday? >> anthony: uh, sort of. >> bartender: it's your first time in glasgow? >> anthony: no i've been a number of times before. i haven't been in, uh, this pub before though. oldest in -- >> bartender: about 1510, it was about in. >> anthony: 1510. amazing. >> anthony: from my very first time --it was glasgow. my favorite city in scotland. one of my favorite cities on earth. i was going to say one of my favorite cities in europe, but

is glasgow europe? i don't think so. it feels somehow older than that. to many outsiders, glasgow is seen as a hardscrabble, even fearsome, place. a place that history has moved on from. but there is definitely a sense here that something different is around the corner. >> news anchor: what will be one of the most important events in scottish and british history, more than four million people will decide whether scotland should stay in the uk or become an independent country? >> woman: will scotland stay, or will it leave the union? >> news anchor: scotland's independence could mark the beginning of the end for the uk as we know it. >> anthony: but in the end, fifty-five percent of scots

voted to stay in the union. that left almost half the population still hungry for independence. and with seventy-three point five percent of teenagers voting yes, england had its undies very much in bunch over the possibility of an unraveling of the union with scotland. it's an idea that is overwhelmingly popular in this city above all others. >> man: glasgow's a gutsy city. i'm told there's going to be big changes. a different outlook. regeneration. i still hear the cries of yesterday. >> anthony: why does the possibility of independence have such a powerful hold on glasgow? the past. glasgow has long endured, among other things, a reputation for being the most violent area in the uk. it's a familiar cycle, analogous in many ways to what we see elsewhere. hard times, disappearing manufacturing base, unemployment, a general sense of

apathy, that the government can't or won't fix what's broken. that in the corridors of power in london and edinburgh, they just don't give a shit about glasgow. especially glasgow's east side. like a lot of cities, like most cities in fact, glasgow is divided. the river clyde divides the north and south sides, but the bigger, more tangible divide is between east and west. the west, things are expected to be, well, nice. nice cars, nice families, all the nice stuff that affluence supposedly brings. east side --that's where you grow up hard. where things are rougher. where you've got, according to popular legend, to fight to live every day. >> john: in --in scotland, if you're a young boy in scotland, and you're nine or ten, and you're coming home from school, and a big guy beats you up, and

you run home to your mum crying, you know what she'll do? she'll give you a cuddle, and then she'll tell you to get back out there and get him. "don't let anybody ever do that to you. and if you need to get a stick, get a stick. if you need a brick, get a brick. don't let anybody do it to you." that's what we do. and it makes us dangerous enemies, resourceful enemies, but it also makes us very loyal allies. >> anthony: detective john carnochan. thirty-eight years on the job, much of it as murder police on the east side. he's seen it all. confroed with violent oliganism, the traditional approach has always been to get out there and bust some heads, make some stats, put up some numbers, lock up some perpetrators. but after decades of dealing with generation after generation of violence, much of it gang

related, he took an unusual and controversial new tactic. along with a colleague, john established a special unit within the strathclyde police called the violence reduction unit and focused their efforts on the social problems that he felt led directly to violent crime. his peers unsurprisingly were dubious. but, as of 2014, scotland is at a forty year low in violent crime. retired from the force, carnochan now advises law enforcement around the world. when in town, though, he likes to come here, typical scottish fare --mother india, for a lamb curry simmered in spicy tomato gravy served with traditional scottish naan bread. >> anthony: i knew glasgow is traditionally a tough town. >> john: mhm. >> anthony: i've always seen it as always, like, warm, welcoming place. >> john: yeah. >> anthony: it's always been one

of my favorite places in, in this part of the world to visit. so do you think the town's reputation is deserved or is this, uh --. >> john: no. i mean, in terms of the level of violence, the facts are the facts. th --that's the --but statistically, if you don't live or come from glasgow, your chances of being a victim of a violent attack in glasgow is something like point zero, zero, zero. >> anthony: right, i've never ever, ever, ever felt, and i've done a fair amount of really, a fair amount of stupid behavior here. uh, fair amount of drinking. um, a fair amount of, you know, putting myself in the sort of, you know, situations that they advise visitors --. >> john: you shouldn't. >> anthony: --to a new town to not do. i've never ever felt uncomfortable here. and, then again, i could be --i could be-- i could be wrong in that, after a few drinks i notice that i don't understand anyone. so they could be making various threats of violence to me at the bar, and i could just be smiling and nodding. ♪ >> anthony: indian food is, of course, huge here, as it is everywhere in the uk. you could venture a guess that it's the cold, damp, and often dreary weather that causes the heart to yearn for spicy food

from hotter climates, but it's more likely it began with the trade routes established by the east india company in the seventeenth century and returning sailors. and that whole "take over india" thing. all i can say is pass the rogan josh. >> anthony: so, how do you reduce violence? i mean, traditionally, we just need more police. get out there, crack some skulls, throw some more people in jail, and problem solved. >> john: yep. >> anthony: i'd say a good number of americans probably still believe that very much. we're very fond of throwing people in prison. uh, to suggest otherwise would be seen as, uh, coddling criminals. >> john: absolutely and it was the same here. they weren't making a blind bit of difference to the levels of violence. we started to think about an entirely different way. violence is a public health issue. we all have the capacity for violence. people learn how not to be violent. and that's why early years is important because things that happen then will affect their whole life course.

about how to make decisions about themselves and to judge -- how they judge risk. no matter how good the police service is, it will just contain and miss the problem. it won't make it better. >> anthony: first of all it's not what i'd expect to hear from, you know, somebody who spent, what? 38 years with murder police presumably busting heads and arresting people. um, that we should hug these little bastards? >> john: yeah, absolutely. >> anthony: more? that we should make them feel like they're worth something? i mean, i get it. i believe it. absolutely. but, everything you've been saying is no way to run for office in my country. >> john: you shouldn't. but, i mean if you say it like this it's gonna take a generation. they go politicians don't want to help a generation. they're worried about the next election for goodness sake. >> anthony: they're worried about the newscast on monday at six o'clock. >> john: yes, the headlines.

yep, absolutely. the truth is, we don't have it licked here either, tony. we don't have it sorted here, but we're on a journey. >> anthony: so what's going right here? come on, this is --let's face it, this is one of the most awesome cities anywhere. >> john: people --that's what's good. and they've actually started to get together and say, "look," they say, "shit, we can't keep doing this. let's try something different." ♪ with expedia you could book a flight, hotel, car and activity all in one place. ♪ and it's also a story mail aabout people and while we make more e-commerce deliveries to homes than anyone else in the country, we never forget... that your business is our business

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because unlimited is only as good as the network it's on. ♪ >> anthony: look, i don't want to give you the impression that glasgow is an impoverished wasteland filled with violent hooligans and gang members, an impression shared by many candy-assed europeans for sure, and a reputation that many glaswegians are only too happy to perpetuate. let's face it, detroit or new

orleans, most american cities make this town look like club med by comparison. glasgow remains the region's no bullshit zone. what i find most endearing in this town is that, if you're a native, you're probably an expert at "taking the piss," a high-level style of ball busting that approaches an art form around here. >> archival worker 1: well it's good to be back at work again isn't it? >> archival worker 2: you don't call that work, you are. you're a glump and you're a gunman. >> anthony: no one excels more at deflating the pompous, making fun of self-importance, turning even the darkest tragedy into comedy than the glaswegians. >> man: bit of ballet, fellas? >> anthony: that's if you can understand the bastards. this can be a challenge --particularly after a few pints of heavy or a couple of bottles of buckfast. >> man with guitar: what a show-off you are! >> anthony: glasgow has a

reputation as a hard-drinking, two-fisted town. >> jane: yeah. >> anthony: i've always found it to be this funny, very funny town. >> janey: very funny. >> anthony: i mean, just --everybody's a natural born comic. >> janey: we are. we have a very dark humor. if you say in america, "my father's died," people immediately are so sympathetic. in glasgow, if you say, "my father's died," glaswegians say, "what size was his shoes?" we have that. >> anthony: janey godley grew up in the east end, married into an organized crime dynasty, worked as a bartender, became a very famous playwright, author, and standup comedian. i thought i'd meet her here at rogano's. a very old-school institution. >> janey: thank you. >> anthony: thank you. >> waiter: enjoy. >> anthony: janey's working some goat cheese thing with figs. for me, scottish oysters are an

irresistible impulse. they are magnificent by the way. >> janey: what a lot of people abroad don't understand is the women are the backbone of many of the communities because the men were always drunk, um, and working in the shipyards and dying young. and that still exists, tony. the age expectancy is still fifty-five. in fallujah, iraq it's sixty-five. >> anthony: wow, that's a pretty extraordinary thing. >> janey: yeah, i know. there's still a lot of crime, there's still drugs, there's still a lot of alcohol problems, but i think the fact that we are a bit shit helps us. because we had the commonwealth games here, and i love that everybody tried not to shout in the street and swear and sell stolen goods in public. i love that they all had this covert operation of, "let's be

nice for a week." i loved that. >> anthony: main course, janey goes for the pan fried brill but me? i can't pass up ocean liner "continental" classics from days gone by like the fabulously unfashionable tyrannosaurus rex of seafood dishes, lobster thermidor. without irony. the lobster is scottish. as is the cheese, the eggs, everything, really. >> anthony: uh, do you have anything to say on the glaswegian diet? >> janey: the diet. it's really interesting, yeah. >> anthony: i mean, the story is that the, that the, uh, health wise, as far as like heart problems, right behind tonga. >> janey: yeah. >> anthony: for an all-time worst, least healthy. >> janey: yeah, it's a bad thing. it's really weird because when i was a kid, we were poor. we ate fish, buttered beans, potatoes, then we would have

liver and onions, and potatoes and cabbage and peas. and then somewhere from the mid-seventies onwards, it just became crap. and now you've got a generation of women who don't know how to make a pot of soup. to be a real glaswegian, tony, housewife, you have to be able to make a pot of soup. i can't make soup. the joke is apparently i'm good at sex. sex takes five minutes, soup can take days, and it smells shit. my husband's never asked for soup. so that works out. [ laughter ] ♪ >> anthony: there's a terrific music scene in glasgow. the pubs are among the finest anywhere. they say glaswegians have more fun at a funeral than people in edinburgh have at a wedding. that does invite, from time to time admittedly, a fair amount

of knuckleheaded behaviors. if you're looking for a beer and a beating, glasgow will happily provide it. the toughness thing is no joke. if you've ever tried to choke a small glaswegian into unconsciousness, as i have, long story, let me tell you, it's like wrestling with an angry fireplug. it's nearly impossible. also, it hurts. access to guns is extremely difficult here. so scottish hoodlums, unable to dispatch their victims with the kind of speed and efficiency as we enjoy in the good old usa, has had traditionally to resort to the knife to do its maiming and killing. the old country way --one person at a time. >> man archival: the stabbing might not get more than a few lines down column in the glasgow papers, because in this city of violence, ordinary stabbing is hardly news anymore. >> anthony: where knife violence is an affliction, there must be a cure.

meet mark davies. he began his career working as bouncer in some of the east side's toughest drinking establishments where he had plenty of opportunities to hone his skills. now he runs tactical edge, teaching close combat and knife defense to uk special operators and security companies. come at him with a knife? the overwhelming likelihood is that it will soon be hanging out of your ass. >> anthony: generally these courses start, come at me with a knife and a guy comes at you like it's, like it's "friday the 13th." and pretty much nobody outside "friday the 13th" in my experience has ever come at anyone like this. um, if someone does come, they're rushing at you and with multiple -- >> mark: yeah. >> anthony: like in a manic frenzy of multiple, uh, jabbing or slashing movements. >> mark: yes, your attacker is being affected by adrenaline and in such a state, the forebrain will start to shut down. yeah? so they're no longer really capable of cognitive thought.

so you tend to get these repeated lines of attack, you know. if they're going for the stomach, they tend to be a sewing machine kind of action. >> anthony: is your first order of business deflecting or getting the damn knife away from them? >> mark: right. i'm either going to gain control of the weapon or go to a returning blade technique where i gain control of the weapon and return it to sender. >> anthony: right. >> mark: yeah. >> anthony: show me. >> mark: okay. ♪ the thing about knife defense is there's no, there's no magic code. any technique can fail. any technique can go wrong. and if there's multiple opponents, that can get a bit difficult as well. yeah? that's the other thing, yeah? >> anthony: right. >> mark: so, if you've got the

knife held up close, okay? yeah? so i'm gonna clap, pull, hit. and now i'm gonna force this thing back into your sternum repeatedly, what we call the woodpecker. >> anthony: right. >> mark: yeah? now, okay? two hands on, kick first, boot, back and fall. >> anthony: right. >> mark: charge. that's it. charge. >> mark: so atm mugging. okay? i'm gonna pin your hand to me so i own the weapon. and i'm gonna slap backwards into the groin. >> anthony: right. yup.

>> mark: so i'm gonna hit, come up, grab. now, i'm gonna introduce point a with point b. >> anthony: ah, yeah, that sucks. >> mark: now, when i do that a few times it's like taking out a baked potato in the microwave, it's gonna be really hot, and you're going to let go. so, bang, bang, bang, bang, bang! >> mark: this is a little bit more close in, and sort of vicious, you everybody doesn't see it. so i've cleared the weapon, and shifted his arm, knee him in the balls, straight under, ah! return to sender. ♪ >> anthony: that was an education. >> mark: no problem. >> anthony: really enjoyed that. [ laughter ] voila! pockets. enjoy! why let life....keep you from enjoying life... this is bill's yard. and bill has a "no-weeds, not in my yard" policy. but with scotts turf builder weed & feed, bill has nothing to worry about. it kills weeds and greens grass, guaranteed. this is a scotts yard.

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♪ >> anthony: last night in glasgow, and enough with the deeper issues. now i want to go no deeper than the bottom of a bubbling cauldron of hot grease. it's out there. it's calling to me. i want it --now. a happy place from my past where once i frolicked young and carefree in the field of fryulated arts. the university café, where i learned at the foot of the masters, the tao of hot fat and

crispy batter. yes, they do a deep fried mars bar here --and deep-fried pizza. been there, done that. but, carlo here and his twin brother have been keeping the verrecchia family tradition alive since 1918, and it ain't about no mars bar. >> anthony: i'm tempted to just go completely nuts for all of the things that i like, like, pie, beans, and chips, like, i don't even know what kind of pie, but i want it. the macaroni and cheese is tempting. haggis i'm doing, couldn't resist that. cheese beano, i don't even know what that is, but i, i kinda want it. ooh, sausage rolls. i do like a good sausage. >> anthony: i order the fish and chips and some haggis. haddock, battered and floating adrift in a sea of mysterious, life-giving oil. the accumulated flavors of many magical things as it bobs like

noah's ark bringing life in all its infinite variety. deep fried haggis, my personal favorite. sinister sheep parts, in tube-form in this case, and if you don't like chopped up liver and lungs and all that good stuff, believe me, the curry sauce sets you right. the combination of french fries, with curry sauce and with dialec cheese, is perhaps a bro too far. guy fieri in a kilt, but what the hay. >> anthony: i'm pretty sure god is against this. oh yeah, definitely. oh. mm, oh that's good. doesn't eat well with a fork, you really gotta pick this up. i'm so ashamed. mmm. ♪

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♪ >> anthony: heading north out of glasgow, scotland quickly becomes something else. a savagely beautiful, harsh, but

absolutely mesmerizing, landscape that seems to have changed not at all for thousands, even millions of years. and across loch maree and accessible only by boat, one of the great isolated estates, letterewe. it's the favorite retreat of my friend adrian gill. more widely known as aa gill, he's the much feared and widely followed restaurant critic for the london sunday times, a regular columnist for a spectrum of magazines, author, traveler and one of the finest essayists of our time. letterewe, as it stands today, was built as a shooting lodge. deer stalking like they do here is something from another era, but it persists in places like this, which both protect and

cull deer populations. if you are, like us, of course, two murderous aristocrats, looking to put some venison on the table, you need help, professional help, and estates like letterewe, come with a stalker. stephen miller has been working here for eight seasons now, both protecting the animals who live on it, and helping people like us in the arduous and delicate task of sneaking up on them. we would, as gentlemen of leisure, require a cook, and adrian has recommended the supremely well-suited fiona cullinane, who excels at this kind of scottish, traditional game cookery. for dinner it's grouse. shot, then hung until the already funky game bird gets pleasingly ripe. the birds are rubbed inside and out with salt and pepper, some fresh thyme jammed in the cavity. browned in the pan, plenty of butter to baste with.

in traditional game bird cookery of the british isles, bread sauce is a must. we don't do this in america, but here? it's essential. basically, it's milk, simmered with flavoring agent, like an onion piquet, nutmeg, and bay leaf, then thickened with rasping of bread. grouse barded with bacon, then roasted in the oven. nicely rare to medium rare, then removed to rest, and the pan deglazed with red wine, game stock is added, and the sauce reduced. topped with watercress, alongside some parsnips and beetroot. >> anthony: so explain what we're eating because this is --. >> a.a: this is --. >> anthony: --as classic as it gets, right? >> a.a.: and this is, this is specifically scottish. this is a grouse, which is the only, the only truly wild game bird in britain. they are the most highly priced as a sporting bird, and they're most difficult to shoot.

uh, but more importantly, they are the most prized to eat. >> anthony: and this bread sauce thing, what, what is that? >> a.a.: bread sauce, which is, so, you really have to grow up here to love this. it's like pottage, it's a --sauce. >> anthony: mhm. >> a.a.: it's a very --it's a very old dish. and it, but it goes very well with the grouse, they're a very gamey meat. it's a very grownup taste that is, that is slightly, slightly repellent. but it is, within that, it is particularly alluring. >> anthony: right. >> a.a.: it's, and there is something also sexual about it, that people don't often talk about. >> anthony: right. so good. >> a.a.: i went to a vegetarian school. my parents sent me to a vegetarian boarding school. and i said for nine years, the year after i left, i was a vegetarian. >> anthony: nine years as a vegetarian, that's unthinkable to me.

>> a.a.: and then i decided not to be. and i made the decision that if i was going to eat meat again, that i had to be prepared to do the whole business. >> anthony: right, you've got to be accountable. >> a.a.: for all of it. for all of it. so i started getting fish with the guts in and cutting them and then, and then you go --and then, in the end, you, someone says, "well come on, you know you want to eat it, come and kill it." and you go, "well then, i have to do that as well." and when i started doing it, it was like coming home. and that's the thing with being on the hill. ♪ >> anthony: until the nineteenth century, the scottish highlands were seen by many as a mysterious, hostile, and

dangerous land, populated, when populated at all, by scary ass barbarians, descendants of the terrifying picts, tribes so ferocious, so extravagant in their violence and toughness that even the roman legions decided not to mess with them and instead built a wall hoping to just keep them out and away from civilized society. later, hunting estates like this were home to tenant farmers who scratched out a living growing oats and potatoes. owned by landed gentry, by various royals, the highland clans mackenzie, macdonell, and macleoud, to name a few, later by newer money, fabulously wealthy foreigners. today around half the land in scotland is owned by fewer than five hundred people. it's an anachronism --dismaying to some, i grant you, but seductive as well. because who wouldn't do this if they could?

enjoy this kind of rugged solitude from the comfort of a warm, inviting seventeenth century lodge. warm one's legs by the fire, play a little snooker, enjoy a fine single malt or two, a substantial game meal, maybe another whiskey, perhaps. contemplate the mysteries of the universe under a starry sky. then, to sleep into the arms of morpheus, to rise in the morning as bringer of death. ♪ >> anthony: stephen and adrian keep calling it "the hill." but that ain't no hill i ever seen. it's a behemoth. an endless range of behemoths. one mountain giving way to a moor, giving way to another mountain, then more, then more. there might be a hill somewhere in there, but it's probably between mountains. after a five-mile uphill walk.

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♪ >> anthony: we walk the highlands for hours. our stalker, stephen, finally identifies a red stag of suitable age and size. one ready, in the parlance, to be taken off the hill. getting into range without scaring him off, however, is another challenge. >> stephen: we're just gonna come back 'round --. >> anthony: we need to circle around the mountain to close the distance. >> stephen: anyway, there's not a lot i can do, you know? you've got to get past them like --so we'll go slowly. just pretend we're hikers at the moment.

>> a.a.: yeah. has anyone got a bobble hat? [ laughter ] >> anthony: what? >> a.a.: if you've got a bobble hat on the deer think you're a hiker. that's it. just in front and to the --can you see the antlers? >> stephen: keep down, stay down, stay down. take it nice and steady.

it's on safe, remember. just take your time. ♪ that's a nice stag. >> a.a.: ten point. >> anthony: is that good? >> a.a.: he was never going to get any better. do you want to use your knife? >> anthony: yeah. ♪ >> a.a.: for shooting your first red stag in scotland you'll get blooded. it's best if you close your eyes.

♪ >> a.a.: for shooting your first red stag in scotland you'll get blooded. it's best if you close your eyes. >> anthony: oh! [ laughter ] oh, okay. >> a.a.: and, and, the rule is you have to leave it on. >> anthony: yep. >> a.a.: all day. >> stephen: how's it going, chaps? >> anthony: as getting vehicles

up here would be both difficult and destructive. the estate has maintained the tradition of using highland ponies to retrieve the stalked deer. they're bred to be strong and trained to do this work. they'll likely make it back sooner than we will. >> stephen: thanks chaps! we'll catch ya's later on at some point. >> man: giddy-up. >> stephen: good boy, stroop. >> anthony: i'd thought coming up, my legs burning, "i can't wait 'til that nice, easy downhill walk back." but, as i soon find out, the walk down is even harder. knees screaming, face crusted with dried blood, i'm looking

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♪ ♪ >> a.a.: so what would you fancy with the venison? stewed with wine? >> anthony: they always marinate it in juniper and all of that. >> a.a.: i know. >> anthony: i'd, i'd keep it super simple. >> a.a.: okay we'll do that. ♪

>> anthony: the venison is seasoned with salt and pepper, and rosemary, seared in duck fat and then into the oven. a pan sauce made from the fond, red wine, and deep game stock, sweetened with currant jelly and finished with a mellowing nob of whole butter. served with clapshot, basically mashed turnips and potatoes. >> a.a.: that's it, that's the end of the season. >> stephen: well it's usually the girls will be getting it --. >> a.a.: then you'll start killing the girls. you have to traditionally wear the, the zipper mask or the leather mask to understand, and you send them notes beforehand. saying, "i'm watching you. i know where you live." >> anthony: we deserve this.

>> stephen: well we've worked for that, huh? >> anthony: yeah. the, literally the greatest feat of strength of my entire life, never at any time in my entire life have i done anything remotely so physical over a sustained period of time. >> a.a.: really? >> anthony: never. >> a.a.: look how well you look. >> anthony: at no point previously in my life would i have been able to do it. thank you guys! >> stephen: cheers! the best of health, folks. >> man: all the very best. slàinte mhath. >> a.a.: slàinte mhath. >> man: good shot. >> a.a.: here's to health. >> a.a.: the hill is now a safer place. a safer place for ramblers. [ laughter ] >> stephen: it's a lot safer now that we're not on it. ♪

>> anthony: i came to scotland this time to shoot an animal in the heart. to take part, to be fully culpable in a practice nearly as old as these hills. you walk this country stalking an animal across the rocks and wet heather. you feel little has changed from how you're distant ancestors must have searched for their food. with a rifle, with a spear, with a club. i dragged my knuckles up a hill, and like my ape-like predecessors returned tired, happy, and covered in blood. everything changes. nothing changes at all. ♪

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