good night. ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪

♪ ♪ ♪ i took a while ♪ felt the cool rain on my shoulder ♪ ♪ found something good ♪ i felt the rain getting colder ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪

♪ >> do you smell that? moerts bike exhaust, fish sauce, incense, the faraway smell of something, is that pork? grilling over charcoal? vietnam, it could be no place else. ♪ ♪ >> listen to me. listen to me. there is no other way to see

this city, hanoi, than from a motor bike or a scooter. to do otherwise would be to miss it all. ♪ ♪ >> it is one of the great pleasures of my life to join the river of people rushing through the streets. ♪ ♪

>> vietnam, it grabs you and doesn't let you go. once you love it, you love it forever. i've been coming here since 2000. first time i'd been to this part of the world and it held a special place in my heart and imagination since. i keep coming back. i have to. vietnam has changed since last time i was here. it's changing every minute. but some things, for now, anyway, remain the same. important things. like this stuff. >> it's going to be good.

first meal in hanoi, and it's something they do here better than anywhere else. >> i'm officially in hanoi now. hmm. magic. a spicy wonderful broth with tomatoes herb, noodles and fresh snails. >> look at those beauties. come to me. plump little love muscle. hanoi, capital city of vietnam. 7.5 million people live here. in the winter, it's chilly and damp. the summer, hot, humid, sub tropical. boulevards in many of the buildings are french: but its heard and soul is always, always vietnamese. americans coming here as tourists for the first time, especially veterans of the war,

are shocked by how friendly the place is. people are genuinely happy to see you. this is hanoi's old quarter. but it's' looking less and less old these days. >> changed. in the irish/czech themed pub next door. vietnam is a young country. almost half of vietnamese of under the age of 30. fewer every year even remember what they call here, the american war. those years were defining time for just about everyone vietnamese or american who lived through them. and though there are still a lot of conflicting feelings back home, for most vietnamese these days the war has become an abstraction, not even a memory. vietnam is still a poor nation. but the standard of living has improved a lot with the relaxing of hard line communist economic

policies. more and more foreign tourists every year. western chains inevitably are everywhere. and president obama is visiting for the first time, taking another step on the long path toward normalizing relations between the countries. >> live is good. hot. i hit the chili hard. ♪ ♪ >> such a pleasure. we have it ready to go. >> yes. by bottle or put in a glass.

>> how would you do it. >> in the glass. in vietnam particularly in the north it would be improper for a woman to drink straight from the bottle. >> oh -- she's devoted her career to help strengthen the bonds between vietnam and the u.s. today redrove to the outskirts of hanoi. tall buildings. people moving from the country to the city. mark jack could bes, prad da. >> very much a young country. >> kentucky fried chicken, a lot of time on internet. history of our country is history of war. 1,000 years under the chinese, and then we had 80 years under the french, and then the japanese came in. and when the american left, finally, in 1975, we got involved with cambodia. we only have peace since 1989.

just in the matter of a few decades, the ente population will be those without any war experience. that's a great thing. >> what are we eating it had? >> well, we are going to have -- >> that means? >> rice roll. >> like a crab -- >> and inside, ground minced pork, and msh roushroom. >> oh. >> you dip it in, and there you go. >> hmm. that's very good. everything we do internationally, someone refers back to the vietnam experience. you know? let's not do that again. >> et's not repeat vietnam. >> but i find it interesting that the people who had perhaps the most painful experience were among the first to reach out. i think the john mccain story is

particularly interesting because here's a guy who had an atrocious experience here in prison. and yet he has been among the most vocal supporters of normalizing relations. >> it took several trips to vietnam so he could see it in a different light. no longer a war. it's a country with people. >> have you been out with returning veterans from -- >> oh, yes. all the time. >> they often want to go the area they served. >> oh, yes. >> they often meet with the people they fought. >> yes. >> b-52 pilots clung to the areas they unloaded their bomb. >> yes. >> what is that experience like? what do you see when they come here? >> extremely emotional. extremely emotional. people burst into tears. the memory i kept of you 45

years ago was an enemy. i did anything and everything to protect my life and to protect the people in my platoon. but toda when i see you again, not as an enemy, as a person. everything just disappear, all the bad feeling disappear. and now oh, are you married? how many children do you have? what are you up to? the life turn into a new chapter. and this chapter is a good chapter. ver almost anything. even a "cactus calamity". (man 1) i read that the saguaro can live to be two hundred years old. (woman) how old do you think that one is? (man 1) my guess would be, about... (man 2) i'd say about two hundred. (man 1) yeah... (burke) gives houseplant a whole new meaning. and we covered it.

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coming out to work and set up shop, the sound of commerce. of a wildly free market economy. the system that's decidedly not. ♪ ♪ when i first came here, it was tie chee at dawn. that's still here. but there's also this. . good to see you. >> nice to see you too. she's also my zumba instructor. >> no zum ba for me. breakfast, though, sounds good.

>> how often a week do you think the average person cooks and how often eat out? >> mostly home for dinner because that's the only meal of the day everybody can be together. as for other meals, normally we eat out. ♪ ♪ >> i meet my old friend on the edge of the old quarter, a place known as cussing noodles. >> this is my favorite restaurant. >> the name comes from the owner, this lady, known for the free and frank way she communicates with her customers. usually yells at people. >> yes. >> if you go to the counter and order something and if you're

indecisive like can i have these? no maybe i have these instead. she's like i don't have a lot of time for you. get out here. >> really? >> yeah. >> what's the specialty of the house here? pig knuckles. >> we know that's going to be good. you put up with the abuse for this glorious seeming bowl of rice noodles with spicy chili's, a rich hearty broth with pig's knuckle and snout. it's the only item on the menu, and it's good. >> two prefer this, you have to be very careful because if you don't do it right you get itchy mouth. not toxic. you won't die from it but it makes your mouth itchy. >> interesting. hmm. wow, that's delicious. >> when people talk about

vietnam they always say about spring rolls. but i think these should be in the mix. >> give me spicy noodles, pork and i'm happy every time. ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪

it's a maze of narrow streets and alley ways behind the old french cathedral. vendors set up stools, and it's happy hour in hanoi. every doorway, every window, a little slice of life. ale story all its own, lives lived, being lived. caught for a second, a moment, then gone. >> vietnam sometime to be truly friend, family, we have to --

>> well, okay. we must. we must. >> cheer for friendship. >> my oldest friend in vietnam from the very beginning. many happy memories, my friend. we've been to siagon. >> he was my original minder for vietnam's ministry of foreign affairs. we became inspite of his official responsibilities, fast friends. >> welcome back. welcome back. cheers. >> thank you. >> he has brought me to a great proud and uniquely hanoi tradition. it refers to the road side joints where locals gather to consume keg dispensed, freshly brewed beer. >> cheer for our beer. ♪

>> it was something less. >> right? now for everyone. it's not expensive. 10,000. >> that's -- 40, 45 cents. >> i'll have another. i can afford that. country's changed so much. when i first came bicycles and motor bikes. now a lot of cars. look. money. people are making money. business is good. >> yeah. >> i mean much more tourism every year. >> yes. people enjoy life more. ♪ ♪

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♪ ♪ ♪

♪ ♪ . search the globe, and you will find no other place that looks remotely like this. how long means where the drag gr gone devends into the sea. legend says this is where a

great dragon charged. war is a constant theme in vietnamese mythology and history. chinese, french, cambodians, again, the chinese. >> it has become for better or worse one of vietnam's most visited destinations. fortunately, this time of year anyway, you don't have to go too far to lose yourself in the past. find a quiet place where you can still imagine the great dragon's

tail thrashing and turning and kicking up these great pieces of rock. chosen mode of transportation, an old french era steamer. we fit it for more current day needs. a big freaking boat. and it's all mine. along with friends and crew, of course.

♪ ♪ ♪ >> i like this boat. we're living a little larger than last time. last time, the boat was not this nice. all the modern conveneses but the charms of the past. it fits perfectly with my overromantic delusions and in general, it does not suck. >> hello, gentleman. how are you doing? >> we having some gin andt to beic. >> wait a minute. were you five years old last time i was here.

>> fine. >> we came here for another show, what feels like a lifetime ago. back then i got to meet his son, min, who es apparently grown up. >> pictures of you and him. 15 years ago. >> oh, my god. look at my hair. changed a little bit. over 8 million people have come in the bay now. >> every year. tourists. >> all of this is protected. you can't do anything on these rocks? >> no. >> how many of these? 1900 of these rocks out there. >> 1,969. and this is a good number. you know? >> it's a lucky number. >> 6 is for fortune and 9 is forever. so fortune forever. >> a indrink or two on the top deck. check. now for the rest of the day try to do as little as possible.

a nap. sunset. maybe some more drinks. what about dinner? >> one for you. >> thank you. cheers, my friend. >> cheers. so, we're eating squid. tons of squit. >> we try to get as many tons as possible. at night, this time of year the bright lights of the bay's fishing boats are unmistakable. >> squids in the evening. light attack the squid so they can catch them. >> they say because of global warming all the fish are dying but that the squid population is increasing. so soon the sea will be filled with plenty of kwid. we'll be eating it every day.

oh, yeah. those are cute little squid. hmm. oh, yeah. tentacles are the best. >> very hard job to catch them. >> they will organize. light turn on all the night. >> and then sleep all day? >> yes. >> it's got to be hot out there, man. sleeping in the day. >> cheers for the day. >> clears for the day. ee with rich flavors of uganda, sumatra, colombia and other parts of south america. like these mountains, each amazing on their own. but together? magical. all, for a smoother tasting cup of coffee. green mountain coffee roasters.

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♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ a morning swim. a bowl of spicy noodles, and a

view. perfect. ♪ ♪ >> how many in the family? >> six. young couple. and their three kids and then the grandmother's living with them. the oldest kids go and sent into with some relatives because they have no school in here. >> right. >> floating fishing villages like this used to be found in nearly every sheltered cove or corner of the bay. but as vietnam becomes a more popular tourist destination, authentic fishing villages are starting to disappear. government has been locating fishing families inland. >> the people living on floating villages, generally nice and will be to open their home to us. >> basically farm oysters.

>> yeah. >> a lot of pearls for sale in the bay and in vietnam. they come from places like this. ♪ >> it takes over a year to grow each pearl and there's no guarantee an oyster will even yield one. >> water spinach? i think that's called? >> that's the most common vegetable for vietnamese in summertime. >> yeah. what kind of fish are these? little fish. >> yeah. how long fish. >> how long fish. this is a pretty treme piece of real estate. >> this over in 78 years old. and she say that her grandparents lived here before

this become a big tourist attraction. >> is this protected by the state? allowed to live here because they're been here so long. >> actually the government is encouraging them to move back to shore because it's better for the children's education. >> they say they're hpy t move back because it's better for the children but they've been living here for many centuries and all they know is fishing. >> right. ♪ ♪

♪ >> just another day in paradise. a trocal downpour at a working class neighborhood on the outskirts of hanoi. the lady selling vegetables and gum and cigarette, taking a nap under a piece of corrugated tin has no idea what's about to happen. >> one, two, get down. ♪ ♪ ♪

♪ ♪ look at me ♪ no what you see ♪ see a bad mother >> good to see you. mr. president, how are you liking vietnam? >> love it. markets like these, i grew up with when i was a kid. these were basically only markets available. you would buy pretty much everything in stalls like this. i wouldn't mind going in and haggling and seeing what i could find. >> this country when i first arrived here smellingeded like place i would like. certain countries smell good and i know when they're going to be good. do you kind of smell that? >> there are certain spices you can smell in certain countries that you don't smell back home. there's some smells that aren't as appealing as well. but that's part of the mix.

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♪

♪ >> there's something magical about the smell. minute you touch down here, it grabs you and captivates you and chances are, it holds you forever. i'm not the first to feel this way. there is no better place to entertain the leader of the free world in my opinion, than one of these classic funky family-run noodle shops you find all over hanoi. dinner and a beer cost about $6. i'm guessing the president doesn't get a lot of state dinners like this. ♪

>> how often do you get to sneak out for a beer? >> very rarely. first of all, i don't get to sneak out period, but the once in a while, i'll take michele out on a date night. problem is part of enjoying a restaurant is sitting with other patrons and enjoying the atmosphere and too often, we end up getting shunted in into one of those private rooms. >> i i'm glad i could help. ♪ >> all right. you're going to have to -- i will walk you through. >> you're going to have to walk me through. >> we're about to eat this. it is about as typical and uniquely a hanoi dish as there is. these beautiful pork patties, grilled pork belly.

bunchai is served in the vietnamese fish sauce. chiles to taste. if you have an important state function after you might not want to. >> i'm going with this thing. we're going to do what's appropriate. >> vinegar. >> all right. >> and then you just hack off noodles and drop them in the bowl. >> not too elegant but i'm there. >> and dip and stir and get ready for the awesomeness. >> i'm ready. is it appropriate to just pop one of these whole suckers in your mouth or do you think you should be a little more -- slurping is totally acceptable. >> it takes skills to handle these sticky cold noodles. but whatever your opinion of the man, the president has shows skills. i got to say -- >> this is killer. >> so good to hear. >> we share apparently sentimentality about asian

street food and southeast asia in general. >> one of my favorite meals of all time. there's an area between two cities in indonesia. it's up through the mountains. you'd have these road side restaurants overlooking the tea fields. there would be a river running through the restaurant itself, and there would be these fish, carp that would be running through. you pick the fish. they grab it for you and friday it up and the ask into be and they serve it with the bed of rice and it was the simplest meal possible and nothing tasted so good. >> as a chicagoan, trickier question frougt with peril. is ketchup on a hotdog ever acceptable? >> no. it's not acceptable past the age of 8. >> my daughter's eight and she put ketchup on eggs the other day and i didn't know what good parenting called for at this point.

>> an intervention. >> i would say so. >> you've got to say you know what? that's not acceptable. i'm sorry. ♪ >> we're at a point where we seem to be turning inwards. i mean we're actually talking about building a wall around our country, and yet you have been reaching out to people who don't necessarily agree with us, gaza, iran, cuba. i mean i just wish that more americans had >> president obama: it confirms the basic truth that people everywhere are pretty much the same. the same hopes and dreams. and when you come to a place like vietnam and you see former american vietnam vets coming back, when you see somebody like a john kerry or a john mccain, two very different people politically and temperamentally,

but who were able to bond in their experience of meeting with their former adversaries. and you don't make peace with your friends. you make peace with your enemies. ♪ >> anthony: as a father of a young girl, is it all gonna be okay? it's all gonna work out? my daughter will be able to come here. in five years, ten years, she'll be able to have a bowl of bun cha and the world will be a better place? >> president obama: uh, yeah. i mean, i think progress is not a straight line. you know? there are gonna be moments at any given part of the world where things are terrible. but having said all that, i think things are gonna work out. >> anthony: thank you so much.

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a book that you're ready to share with the world? get published now, call for your free publisher kit today! ♪ [ singing in vietnamese ] >> anthony: the vast majority of this country don't remember the american war. they don't remember any war. >> ha: no. >> anthony: you used to be a

tour guide. >> ha: yes. >> anthony: for how many years? >> ha: 15 years. >> anthony: 15 years. i know you have to bring people over to the museum, the american war museum, what, every time, right? >> ha: yep. >> anthony: in your lifetime, is there going to be a time when that's not gonna have to be a stop? it won't be necessary. it won't even be important. no one will remember it. or should people always remember? >> ha: i think it's good to remember so we don't make the same mistake, you know? some people choose to be angry, to hold a grudge, but then some people choose to let go and, for the peace inside themselves. that's up to the person. and, i think it's good that, that -- it's important that we know about history. and to make sure it never happens again.

♪ i met a lot of war veterans. and, surprisingly, l of them don't feel -- don't have any hate, anger against their old enemies. and that's amazing. that is amazing. i learned so much from them. ♪

[ music stops ] ♪ >> ha: for vietnamese, we have so many legends. but the majority of legends related to our traditions of fighting against foreign invaders and to protect our country. over the last 20 years of my life, i've seen a lot of changes. and we know that there's still a lot of shortcoming. [ bells ringing ] but everything needs time. we need to be patient. we can't rush because we really don't want another war. >> anthony: general william westmoreland, who commanded u.s. forces here in the mid-'60s, famously said, "the oriental doesn't put the same high price on life as does a westerner. life is plentiful. life is cheap in the orient."

it was an extraordinary grotesque and wrongheaded observation from a guy who, if nothing else, was expected to understand his enemy on the battlefield. he could not, it turned out, do even that. maybe, i hope, we are a little bit smarter now. ♪ [ horns honking ] ♪ [ horns honking ] ♪ [ horns honking ]

♪ >> anthony: this is where i bought my first bag of heroin. it was 1980, i was 24 years old. but in a lot of ways, my whole life up to that point was leading to this address. western massachusetts, the unlikely new frontier of america's war on drugs. where heroin has become an exploding problem that's begun