♪ [ siren ] ♪ >> anthony: there's no place else even remotely like it. everything great and all the world's ills, all in one glorious, messed up, magical, maddening, magnificent city. ♪

beirut. it's good to be back. ♪ i took a walk through this beautiful world ♪ ♪ felt the cool rain on my shoulder ♪ ♪ found something good in this beautiful world ♪ ♪ i felt the rain getting colder ♪ ♪ sha la la la la sha la la la la la ♪ ♪ sha la la la la sha la la la la la la ♪ ♪

♪ [ motorcycles revving ] >> anthony: the mediterranean sea itself trembles. the ground shakes beneath the wheels of our heavy metal thunder. back in beirut after all these years. the first time i was here did not end well, but it made no difference to me. i love it here. in spite of everything, i love it here. ♪ ♪ >> anthony: nice ride. woo! it's a good way to see beirut. >> ramsay: this is very similar to that place we went to years ago, barbar. this is rizk. this is your, you know, traditional chicken sandwich, shawarma.

>> marwah: deep-fried, broasted. >> anthony: the broasted chicken was this guy's idea, my british-lebanese friend. born, "born to be wild" ramsay short, who i met back in those bad old days of 2006. apparently he's in with the lebanese chapter of the harley davidson group, or hog for short. so, when you roll into some religiously conservative village on these monster bikes in leather jackets. what's the reaction? >> suzan: two types: once, we were greeted with rice from the balconies. like, they thought we were, like, a wedding or something really nice and the other extreme was stones, like, at the wheels, like, "just get out of here." >> anthony: really? >> suzan: yeah. >> anthony: i wouldn't throw stones at people on harleys. [ laughter ] whoa, look at this. >> ramsay: let's dig in. >> anthony: man, that'll work. >> ramsay: this is a famous neighborhood of the city. >> marwah: this area, it was central during the civil war, this place. >> ramsay: yeah. >> anthony: the sheer volume of fire that was poured into some

of these buildings is absolutely unbelievable. >> marwah: yeah so much fire and so many battles happened in the same place over -- >> anthony: over and over and over and over. >> marwah: over and over again. >> anthony: clearly. >> marwah: i notice this every time someone visiting the city, they just point at them. "oh look at that!" but, you know, we don't see them anymore. we just pass by them. ♪ >> anthony: beirut, seemingly the world in miniature. eighteen religious sects recognized. more than two million christians. over a million and half shiites. a million and a half sunni. nearly five hundred thousand palestinians. and now, by some estimates, as many as two million syrians all living and, somehow, getting along, kind of, in a country the size of connecticut. but along its borders the

country has what you might call "serious neighbor issues." isis, in syria, threatening to expand its so-called caliphate into lebanon. >> archival: isis, in many ways, is something we've never really seen before, a really large, well-organized, well-equipped terrorist army. >> archival: lebanon's been absorbing refugees for nearly two years now. the country simply can't take anymore. >> archival: a quarter of lebanon's population is now syrian. that is the equivalent of the us taking in eighty-three million syrians. >> archival: this could be spiraling, and, as you said, the real fear is the violence across the border in syria's civil war now spilling over into an already fragile neighbor, lebanon. ♪ >> archival: beirut struggles to put a lid on the simmering sectarian tensions. ♪ >> archival: aftermath of that

bombing in beirut as well as some of the flashes that took place. ♪ >> archival: exchanges of gunfire between sunni and shia. two palestinian brothers were shot. ♪ ♪ >> anthony: here, block-by-block, you see the scars from the fifteen-year civil war that only ended in the 90s. but also nightclubs, discos, beaches, bikinis, where much of the arab world comes to let their hair down. it is an incongruous mix. ♪ >> archival: all of this is just playing into people's fears, the violence is just beginning. ♪

♪ ♪ >> anthony: the bourj el-barajneh neighborhood has long been the home to principally palestinian refugees. but more recently it's become a refuge for syrians fleeing the barrel bombs of president assad on one hand, and the predations of isis on the other. the camp saw heavy fighting, shelling, and outright massacres during the religious conflict known as the lebanese civil war. everywhere, you see posters

representing a full menu of political factions and affiliations from assad loyalists, to the plo, to every flavor of extremist. >> man: it's either a jihad, a victory, or martyrism. >> anthony: do you know of any other place in the region where all of these groups are coexisting within a confined space? >> nick: it is stunning to be walking down the street with high heels, short skirts, and vast amounts of red wine flowing. and then drive straight into an extraordinarily conservative, predominately shia district or, you know, the hezbollah district, which is a effectively run by what the us calls a terrorist organization. it's kind of, and it's kind of mind-blowing. >> anthony: i am not a geopolitical expert. and as much time as i've spent in this part of the world, i've spent nowhere near the amount of time this guy has. nick paton walsh. cnn senior international correspondent. >> nick: most of the groups here are now more terrified of those, sort of, crazy islamist radicals across the border in syria than they ever have been of each other. >> anthony: what would you call

this neighborhood? what is it? >> nick: i mean, it's now one of the kind of very mixed refugee areas that beirut has. >> anthony: close to two million people from syria alone. >> nick: yeah. >> anthony: that's a hell of a lot to be absorbed by a tiny little nation of, what, four point five million? >> nick: it's just loads of people, far too many people, with nowhere to go. you see it in how the cellphones don't sometimes work the way they should, how people have to ship water into their own homes. that's part bad infrastructure, but it's also just the sheer demand on resources. >> anthony: we'll follow you? >> najem: okay. for the first time in history a palestinian leads an american. that's nice. >> nick: don't let the neighbors know about that. >> najem: yes. >> anthony: in syria mr. najem was an english teacher. needless to say at one time he had a better life back there. >> najem: i came from syria. after the civil war started there. >> nick: yeah. >> najem: we know lebanon has many, many problems, security problems, and we don't want to

add more problems for those people. but what can we do? we live here in this camp. imagine the situation here. it is unbearable. [ speaking foreign language ] >> najem: yes. >> najem: these children need -- medical operation, but this family can't pay for the operation because it's very expensive. they are waiting for godot, they wait for nothing. they wait for the help of god. >> anthony: straining under the weight of all these unasked for guests, the lebanese government has begun making it very

difficult for them. >> najem: he doesn't work only because he doesn't have an official residence. so he can't leave the camp. otherwise he will be arrested, you know. >> anthony: being stopped at any of the city's ubiquitous military checkpoints could mean a one-way ticket back to syria. trapped, unable to work, they exist invisibly on the margins of society. >> najem: no photos here. this is a military area. you don't want to get involved in any problem. [ whistle ] ♪ >> anthony: syrian food? >> najem: this is syrian. it is called the seven countries. it consists of many kinds of vegetables. seven kinds of food. palestinians in syria, most of them are well educated. doctors, engineers, lawyers,

teachers. >> nick: but here, now, it's the opposite right? >> najem: here in lebanon, even if you were a doctor, or a lawyer, or a teacher, you can work only in the camp. we don't know how to go, where to go, to go back to syria. >> anthony: can't. no can do? >> najem: to cross the sea -- >> anthony: can't? >> najem: suppose that lebanese authority collect us and throw us away to syria, what is going to happen? we have no area in the world. we have no place in this universe. we belong to nowhere. nowhere. ♪ >> man: welcome to lebanon. and .

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♪ >> anthony: once known as the paris of the middle east, beirut still clings to its glamorous 1960s image. a chic tourist destination where you can famously ski and go to the beach all in the same day. walking the corniche it's easy to forget, for a moment anyway, what's going on not far from here. ♪ ♪ ♪

>> mo: all the people who live here knew the cost. they preferred to spend sunday outside their houses. and this is one of the traditional places. this is the way i live all my life. >> anthony: mo is a local security specialist on assignment to keep, well, me and my crew safe from harm. he lives with his daughter, boushra, and his family in ras beirut, a mixed neighborhood of christians, muslims, and druze. little oil in the middle, as i recall, yes? >> mo: yes. >> anthony: ah so good. very good fish. i missed this country, i really did. >> mo: you've been here before? >> anthony: this is my third time. >> mo: whoa. >> anthony: my first time was 2006. >> mo: ooh. >> anthony: we came here, we had two perfect days, and then the war broke out.

during my first trip here in 2006, hezbollah guerillas killed three israeli soldiers and captured two others in a cross-border raid. in the 34 day war that followed much of beirut was heavily pounded by bombs and naval artillery. i fell in love with this city under the worst possible situation. you have this really extraordinary mix of religions and people. how is that, why? what's so special about it? >> mo: only here. only here. >> anthony: why? >> mo: of course somebody on friday go to pray, somebody on sunday go to pray, but they go to the same restaurant, have the same food, have the same drink. they have the same tradition. >> boushra: there's no place better than lebanon. you have everything. people are friendly. it's beautiful. fantastic. >> anthony: it is a democracy here. >> mo: of course. you have choice to sit down and go, "i like this, i don't like this." >> anthony: so, what's it look like now? >> mo: we look like we are two

months before 2006. >> anthony: oh, wow that's not good. >> mo: tension is a little bit high, but the people they are very happy. we are very happy. i go with my family outside. >> anthony: i mean, i was watching the news last night at the hotel. it is genuinely terrifying. >> mo: this is lebanon. it's raining today, tomorrow is sunny. it's happening all the time. we get used to it. >> anthony: you get used to it. are you concerned or optimistic? >> boushra: no, i'm optimistic. yeah. >> anthony: do your friends feel the same way? >> boushra: um, not really, not all. >> anthony: oh, your friends are less optimistic. >> boushra: yeah. >> mo: we have only one good neighbor. it don't affect us. >> anthony: yeah. >> mo: it help us all the time. it's the sea. it brings the fish, and we have fish. and they never get upset from us. >> anthony: insha'allah. >> mo: insha'allah. ♪

♪ ♪ ♪

>> chyno: now i'm back, booyakasha. we are back in the hizzouse. we are here to -- yeah, this is radio beirut. ♪ >> anthony: is that, why, yes. yes, i think it is. ironic glasses, vintage clothing, and neck beards. it appears the brooklyn strain has spread even to beirut. >> radio dj: radio beirut, live and direct. >> radio dj: it is with cnn and everything. >> jeff: cnn has become the most trusted name in news. same way a broken clock is trusted to be right twice a day. >> chyno: cnn changed their slogan from, "this is cnn," to "at least it's not fox news."

>> jeff: yes, sir. >> anthony: how is it possible, this mix of religions, of cultures -- >> chyno: you know, geographically how it is, beirut's so tiny. you got mountains, you got the sea. we're surrounded, and then there's so many factions that you have to deal with everybody. >> chyno: i'm going turkey/ham in this bitch. now pass me the lettuce stack up until i stand with this shit. now, where is the bread, where is the ---, where's ---- hummus while a small percentage get to eat ----, where is the oil where is the wealth? syrian folks they easy and chill, they need not know, needed some help. given the choice -- >> anthony: syrian-filipino rapper, chyno. >> man: monday is hip-hop in radio beirut, and radio beirut is like a really awesome place where there's live bands playing all week long. >> hussein: we created a platform for mcs to try their skills in front of people without the prejudice, without the judgments, and -- although we do judge. we do make fun of them. >> hussein: green fields and dream fields, like ---- then i'm making magic like my name was copperfield. damn. >> anthony: lebanese freestyle legend, hussein, aka double a,

the preacher man. you were, what, you were arrested? is this correct? >> hussein: yeah, yeah, yeah. that's normal, that's not the first time it happened, though. >> anthony: for, what? >> hussein: basically, i was profiled. like, if there's an explosion, "oh, the big dude with the beard who's bald, that's him." >> anthony: right. >> hussein: "it's him, he did it. we're a hundred percent sure." >> anthony: these are beard-related issues. >> hussein: yeah. >> anthony: let's talk about hip-hop. >> hussein: that's the glue that binds us. >> anthony: what is it about hip-hop? >> hussein: i see it like this. i mean, a lot of people do malhun, in arabic it's called malhun, which is a traditional rhyming scheme in which they speak about their problems, about their beefs. it's in our core to be po -- we are poets. >> chyno: we come from like a background where you have governments that are dictators, and we can't really voice anything. ♪ these politicians can't believe them because they're getting led on to the slaughter while this monster's trying to keep the lid on. ♪ ♪ pressure makes him squeal but it blows the lid off and we're raw, we're raw, we're raw. ♪ >> chyno: we're trying to find our own identity. we don't want to be like our ancestors always fighting each other. like he's christian, he's shia, i'm syrian sunni, that's nothing, you know?

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♪ ♪ >> anthony: afternoon in beirut and the hafez family, like many others across the city, prepares dinner. ♪ >> anthony: extraordinary spread of food. >> mr. hafez: yeah. >> child: a chicken burger! >> mr. hafez: all this food you see, and my son, he's crying because he wants to go to burger king. he wants some chicken burger from burger king. >> anthony: well thank you so much for having me in your home. >> mr. hafez: this is spicy potato. we call it batata harra. deep-fried potato with red pepper, chili, coriander, garlic, and lemon juice. and this is kibbeh nayyeh, which

is raw meat, lamb, fresh mint, spring onion, mix it all together. and this is as the main course. it's called moussaka. minced meat, baked aubergine, green and red pepper, and chickpeas, and tomato and tomato paste. please help yourself. >> anthony: thank you. i was in beirut in 2006. this neighborhood was hit very hard. >> mr. hafez: yeah. >> anthony: were you here at that time? >> mr. hafez: yeah. it was a disaster. >> anthony: why this neighborhood? >> mr. hafez: because the people in this area, ninety-nine percent, they support hezbollah. ♪ >> archival: as israel buries its dead from a surprise hezbollah missile strike and the radical shiite group celebrates a victory, the rhetoric on both sides is at a fever pitch right now. [ sirens ]

>> archival: it is the deadliest hezbollah attack against israeli forces since the two sides went to war in 2006. >> anthony: hezbollah means "the party of god." they are a shia military political organization lavishly supported by iran. the party is more powerful, more effective on the ground, than the lebanese army. the united states officially designates them a terrorist organization. in 1983, they did this, the us embassy bombing. and this, the marine barracks at beirut's airport. 299 united states and french servicemen were killed. >> mo: all these people, they are hezbollah. please put it down now. >> anthony: they are dangerous, they are well funded, and whatever else they may be, they

are not stupid. >> mr. hafez: in 2006, i have two sisters that lost their home. hezbollah take care of them. here in dahieh everybody support hezbollah. even the people who they are not religious, for one reason, because they feel protected by them. >> anthony: my host's support for hezbollah, typical for the dahieh neighborhood in south beirut, is staunch. >> mr. hafez: before hezbollah, lebanese people, they were always scared of israel. now when you say, "israel," you say, "ah, we don't care." >> anthony: in the early days hezbollah used tactics that just about anyone would call terrorism. when is it permissible, morally, to use tactics like a car bomb, or using civilian targets? >> mr. hafez: for me? >> anthony: for you. >> mr. hafez: i'm against killing. against killing anybody, even israel. this person who i'm going to kill, in car bomb, or whatever, doesn't he has family? >> anthony: what's the most important thing happening in the world today that needs to be

resolved for things to be better? >> mr. hafez: isis. >> anthony: isis is number one. >> mr. hafez: number one. they killed hundreds and thousands of shia. they are devils. they are against everything, like everything on the earth, they are against. >> anthony: recently hezbollah has become heavily involved in the war in syria in defense of the assad regime. complicating matters and, uncomfortably enough, they are probably the best organized, best equipped, most serious obstacle to isis and al qaeda in the area. >> mr. hafez: most of the villages in the east of lebanon, they are christian, and they are sunni. if hezbollah wasn't there, it was no more christian in that area. this is the only reason i get the gun. this is the only reason for it. just to protect my children and my wife. >> anthony: twenty years, thirty years, will things be better? >> mr. hafez: i hope so.

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♪ >> anthony: the last two times i've been here, there's just this never-ending building boom. and nobody seems to be moving in. but the buildings are going up. >> joumana: yeah. >> anthony: who's buying these apartments? who are they for? >> joumana: two kinds of people. lebanese who are living abroad. >> anthony: mhm. >> joumana: or arabs, especially from the gulf region. >> anthony: right, for whom

beirut is a relatively liberal wonderland of permissiveness compared to riyadh, for instance. >> joumana: compared to riyadh, yes, but unfortunately we cannot generalize this and say that beirut is a place where sexual expression is encouraged. >> anthony: her books are banned in many countries in the region. she's regularly threatened with rape, stoning, and murder. she is joumana haddad, culture editor of lebanon's biggest newspaper, "an-nahar." >> joumana: yesterday i had my first web tv show about sexual freedom, and you cannot imagine how many hell's doors have opened just because i dared say that girls are allowed free sexuality just like boys. and we pretend to be a democracy. >> joumana: this is kafta. >> anthony: kafta. >> joumana: yeah, with yogurt sauce and cranberries, it's yummy. >> anthony: then the fried kibbeh. >> joumana: kibbeh. >> anthony: uh, stuffed grape leaves? >> joumana: yes.

tabbouleh. >> anthony: tabbouleh. >> joumana: the famous tabbouleh. >> anthony: the fact that lebanon, that beirut in particular, works at all. all these religious groups and different interests, i mean this is a fully functioning, more or less, by world standards -- >> joumana: "fully functioning." >> anthony: yeah, this is a -- >> joumana: we don't have a president. it's been almost- it's going to be a year now that we are without a -- >> anthony: but that's sort of awesome. >> joumana: don't you think that the main reason behind you seeing this as a thrilling, exciting place to live in, is that you're a visitor and not someone who actually lives here? >> anthony: am i wrong to love this place? >> joumana: you're not wrong to love it. i love living on the tip of a volcano, but there has to be some point where i could breathe and relax. i don't want to seem like i'm only criticizing because i really also, as much as i hate this place, i love it as well. and i know that it's also very precious to have such a kind of freedom in a place in the arab world like beirut. i don't need to tell you about

the islamic state. even though they're not inside beirut yet, we can feel the threat. we can feel it every day. >> anthony: should people come here? >> joumana: yes, definitely. they should come. they will enjoy it as much as you have. i wouldn't advise them to stay more than a month though. [ engine running ] ♪ ♪

♪ >> michel: i often go to the danieli in venice, and i ask them there to call me "your highness." i love that, that's my trip. so i go there and i am dressed like an emperor. i'm not today, but sometimes i'm dressed like an emperor. >> anthony: there have been two attempts on your life, yes? >> michel: yes. >> anthony: that you're aware of. >> michel: two attempts. in arabic we say ----, means the third one succeeds. so, i don't know when the third one will be. >> anthony: a young militant. an activist. a labor organizer. you have been arrested in your life. >> michel: yes, many times.

when i was fourteen-years-old, for example, i became a communist in a region that was under control of the extreme right wing militia. i ended up in a torture room that i recreated here just behind you. >> anthony: later, after joining and then leaving the lebanese army, michel elefteriades formed the mur, an armed revolutionary group. >> anthony: and yet here you are. your life now is music and culture. >> michel: i think that i was made to be a musician, but when war happened in lebanon i took a gun. i understood that i cannot face someone who's attacking my house with a guitar. >> anthony: in 2003, by now a music producer, entrepreneur, politician, artist, author, and filmmaker, he founded the beirut music hall in a bullet-popped theater empty since the civil war. this is his kingdom. >> michel: some people come because it's trendy.

they come with sexy ladies. some come because they like to discover new things. we have per night up to fifteen acts. each act comes from a different culture. >> anthony: who needs culture? >> michel: i think that culture can save the world. isis, those criminals who are not very far from lebanon, someone who read interesting books, someone who listened to beautiful music, cannot become an animal again. >> anthony: if you were the emperor of the world, hypothetically -- >> michel: hopefully. hopefully. >> anthony: hopefully. what would beirut be like in ten years? >> michel: best-case scenario, it goes back to before the creation of israel. when all communities were living very well, the jews would be back. we are in the jewish neighborhood here. i think that you have to all to be united to fight this monster, isis. once the monster is defeated you can start arguing again about other things.

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♪ >> anthony: hello. >> rawan: hello, hi. >> anthony: how ya' doin', i'm tony. >> rawan: i'm rawan. hi, nice to meet you. >> anthony: thank you for doing this. this feels very formal, but it's not, so please relax. >> rawan: i am relaxed. >> anthony: okay, good. >> rawan: can i get my beer? >> anthony: by all means, yes, please. >> rawan: lots of people come here. they're mostly musicians and artistic people. lots of jamming happens here, it's like more of a family

hanging out. >> anthony: this café is a typical beirut establishment with a clientele from lebanon, from syria, and any number of other countries. the owners are both lebanese and syrian and acutely aware of the tricky political realities with which they must live. they were concerned about us filming here and wanted us to understand clearly that the café has no political affiliation and that the opinions of this young lady rawan are not that of the café or necessarily even the clientele. >> anthony: you were born and bred in syria. >> rawan: i was, yes. i was born and bred up in syria in damascus. >> rawan: one night, three a.m., the army entered our house, and i found them in my bedroom looking for the free syrian army. my dad knew he couldn't protect us because he was old. three hours later, we decided to leave. so we came to beirut. ♪ >> anthony: oh, thank you. >> rawan: we always eat here. grape leaves is my favorite food.

>> anthony: i saw you went for that first. >> rawan: yeah. >> anthony: it's delicious. >> rawan: yeah, it is. we come here a lot, and we talk a lot about syria. we talk about our visa issues most of the time. actually now i have four months left and i really have no idea left and i really have no idea what am i going to do. >> anthony: what do you think? will they renew your visa? >> rawan: so far, i don't think so. >> anthony: do they arrest you? do they take you to the border and kick you over to the other side? how does that -- >> rawan: they would send you back to syria. >> anthony: what happens if you go back to syria? >> rawan: most probably die on the way, or some people get arrested or be taken to the army. >> anthony: how different is damascus from beirut? >> rawan: oh, it's really, really different. in damascus, i was always afraid of the government. some people died because they cursed the president. i left syria and i found hope here, and i screamed in the

streets, cursing all politicians and everything. it's all right, nobody's going to come and arrest you. >> anthony: mhm. >> rawan: i really love this place with all my heart. >> anthony: is all of the chaos and the violence worth it for change? is that worth dying for? i mean you, things were, there was order when you grew up. there was order. >> rawan: yes. >> anthony: no freedom, but order. would you go back to that? >> rawan: i don't think that there's anything worthy in the world of human blood. there is nothing more important than a human being. >> anthony: you'd never be able to yell out loud, you'd never be able to do the things you're doing now. you'd go back. >> rawan: i was alive. >> anthony: you were alive. >> rawan: lots of people were alive as well. man: it takes a lot of work to run this business, but i really love it.

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♪ >> archival: one day, after a shocking daylight bombing in

lebanon, we're seeing widespread anger and finger pointing. >> archival: this blast has set off a tide of civil unrest in lebanon. ♪ [ laughter ] >> anthony: good to see you, how have you been? >> ramsay: cheers. i've been all right. i've been well. >> anthony: where better for a capitalist, imperialist, pig dogs like ramsay myself to spend the last evening in beirut than abou elie? >> ramsay: it was opened by a guy called naya. he was an atheist member of the lebanese communist party. >> anthony: a communist-themed bar located in a housing block. what is this? >> ramsay: do you know what, i'm not sure. it's been put in front of us. >> anthony: well, we should probably drink it. >> ramsay: together, let's do it. why not. >> anthony: we'll figure it out. >> anthony: vodka. >> ramsay: vodka. >> anthony: you know, i actually had somebody who lives here tell

me, "oh, yeah, the place is great, just don't stay here for longer than a month." >> ramsay: yeah. >> anthony: and i was like, "what?" oh yeah, you're trying to kill us, man. who is this man? >> ramsay: i don't know he's -- >> anthony: he's trying to hurt us. >> ramsay: cheers. >> anthony: after more than a few indigenous beverages -- >> anthony: oh arak? oh now we're talking. cheers. >> ramsay: cheers. >> anthony: enter ernesto. >> anthony: i know this man. >> ramsay: aha! >> ernesto: how's it going, hey, tony. hey! i got something for you. >> anthony: oh yeah. >> ernesto: it's a cuban cigar. >> anthony: in the words of vladimir ilyich lenin, let's get this party started. or was that rick james? >> ramsay: ernesto is the son of the owner of this bar. >> anthony: i know. >> ernesto: this is my mom. she made some shanklish here. >> anthony: oh. >> ramsay: shanklish is the cheese. >> ernesto: it's kind of rotten cheese. >> anthony: here we go. >> ramsay: cheers. >> ernesto: i called my dad. >> anthony: yeah. >> ernesto: i told him there's a guy called tony. cnn. he said, "i don't watch cnn." and then i told him, "but he's a cool guy."

he wants to make the best food for you. >> ramsay: this is some of the best kibbeh nayeh in beirut. >> anthony: lamb? >> ramsay: and spices. >> anthony: oh man, that's good. >> anthony: hypothetical question. isis are coming now. are we picking up a gun or not? >> ernesto: i pick a gun. >> ramsay: yeah, we will fight these people. >> anthony: no, i'm not drinking that. >> ernesto: no, no, we have to have it. >> anthony: i seem to remember mom at one point whipping out some kind of automatic weapon. >> anthony: all right, here you go, big boy. >> ramsay: i will take this up in arms, and i will fight. >> ernesto: let me tell you how we use that. >> ramsay: i will, i -- >> anthony: and then the mirror ball descended from the ceiling, bootsy collins came on over the sound system, and the rest is a fog. >> ernesto: let's first have a cheers. >> anthony: oh, come on, give me a big hug. this is a country with the worst neighbor problems in the world. it's amazing that it persists. >> ernesto: i've been around and i've seen places. this place, the world's fine.

>> anthony: i think so too! >> ernesto: here's to tony, man. ♪ ♪ >> anthony: beirut. everybody should come here. everyone should see how complicated, how deeply troubled, and yet, at the same time, beautiful and awesome the world can be. everyone should experience, even as the clouds gather, what's at stake, what could be lost, what's still here, and never let that hope go. beirut, there's no place like it. ♪

♪ >> anthony: some places surprise you. even if you've been traveling nearly non-stop for 15 years like me, there are places that snap you out of your comfortable world view, take your assumptions and your prejudices, and turn them upside down. they lead you to believe that maybe there is hope in the world. senegal is one of those places. ♪ i took a walk through this beautiful world ♪ ♪ felt the cool rain on my shoulder ♪