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tv   Anthony Bourdain Parts Unknown  CNN  July 1, 2018 12:00am-1:01am PDT

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[ cheers and applause ] /s ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪
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♪ ♪ ♪ ♪
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♪ ♪ nearly a year on the road, all those miles, all those airports, infinite variety of awful plumbing, it was time for something low-impact. so, off to jamaica. ♪ ♪
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>> this is the first time i've ever driven a car on the wrong side of the wroad, i mean knowingly. how hard can it be? ooh, we get to pass on the right, too. woo-hoo! thankfully we have a roll bar. this time a different angle. you probably know of jamaica as a vacation paradise. it's worth mentioning this is a divided country and has been in one form or another since the days of slavery. there is a small minority who control most everything and then there's the poorer, generally darker skin majority, less connected, left out. jamaican cuisine, a lot of it, still reflects this conflicted history. bread fruit, saltfish, this was slave food. cheap, long lasting, filling, introduced basically as feed. ♪ ♪
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>> day one, first order of business, get some jerk chicken. can you blame me? no, i think not. oh, that's good. yeah, yeah, i know this routine, believe me. it's brown, it's murky, and it burns, mommy, it burns. and there are still all these years later two jamaicas. there's the jamaica that most jamaicans live in, cook in, struggle to survive in.
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the real jamaican. then there's the jamaica which you're probably more familiar with. ♪ ♪ the tourists have been coming to jamaica a long time. this island, particularly port antonio, threatened to become a international jet set destination. legend has it errol flynn was ship recollected and promptly fell in love with the place. before flynn it has been an empire of bananas, a huge industry that later became united fruit. bananas went out, tourists came in. the banana business eventually went elsewhere. and when tourism shifted to the other side of the island with
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the construction of an airport at mondtego bay, that was it. the northeast coast was largely forgotten. ♪ ♪ it has the feel still of a forgotten paradise. there are those who believe that the area can come back, that it must come back, that the future is in hotels and resorts and restaurants for wealthy visitors as it once was. ♪ ♪ take this place, for instance. the trident hotel. luxurious. and best of all, i'm the only guest.
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oh, did i mention it comes with a castle? what kind of person would own a building like that? who? why? then this man arrived and kind of answered that question. all of this belongs to michael lee chin, local boy turned billionaire, one of the rich est men in the world and my host. he's invited me for dinner. first we need crabs for that dinner, i'm told. caught in the traditional style. a drink is in order. >> cheers, man. crabbing. >> crabbing. ♪ ♪
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a lot of crab holes. >> this time of year, port antonio is literally crawling with crabs, i'm told. it will be really easy. just scoop up the little bastards, then it's back to the pool. >> i'm looking. i'll lunge at them. >> it's hot. i think it's out rumming. >> really taking the bush. >> it is a sweltering freaking hot and dark. >> you find some? awesome. >> it doesn't bother the hotel chefs who risk dismemberment for the sake of procuring a tasty dinner. >> we want him alive. we have questions to ask him. where are your friends? >> one crab down, 49 left to go. >> tony, we have to get some more tonight. >> i'm frankly anxious to get this over with. so when the opportunity arises to stick my paw down into a hole where there is probably a pissed off crab looking to clamp down on am i pinky with his pinchers,
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i could care less. >> nothing. >> no? >> nobody home. >> i think i stepped in an ant nest. >> is that ants? wonderful, please attack my nut sack. anything to get this over. i don't want to kill the little guy. >> right there. expert. nice one. >> next. what seems like several sweltering hours later it's mission accomplished and home base, time to get back to the castle followed by a party, i'm told. >> do you recognize these, tony? >> i put this guy in a bag. >> i'm joined by billionaire michael, his partner john baker, music producer and hotelier,
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john's wife, errol's son luke and his son sky. you grew up in this -- >> yes. >> -- in this area. what was port antonio like in the '50s? >> port antonio was -- it was vibrant, banana, lots of wealthy tourists. so, port antonio was a happening place. ♪ ♪ ♪ >> you're a man with a diverse
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financial interest. banks, communications. as a veteran of 30 years in the hospitality business, why? why would you do such a hard and probably unprofitable thing? i mean usually unprofitable. >> you're being very kind. well, i thought you're smart, you're brilliant. your behavior shows that you're dumb. >> no, no, i know the answer. are you a romantic? >> greetings will -- great things will happen when you dream, you aspire, you see a vision. and you set out to achieve that vision. trident is here to capitalize people born to discover. wow, wow, and wow again. >> where does it cross over, where all of the things you love about, about this area where all
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of the villas are spanking new and people are building 400-room hotels? is there a threshold where things start to not be the things that you loved about the place in the first place and how do you guard against that? >> you know, tony, port antonio is a long way from getting there. it has not progressed out of the '50s. it's had very little tourism in recent years. >> everybody loves reggae. everybody loves bob marly. everybody loves spicy jamaican food. what's the problem? >> you don't get off a plane and go 100 yards to an inclusive. >> it's that simple? >> we're shrouded by the blue mountains and it's an effort to get here so it filters out certain forms of travelers. we have to make it a little bit
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easier -- >> you get beat out by a lot of lame islands. >> and even in jamaica, lamer areas for me, i say if someone says, oh, i've been to jamaica and they haven't been to port antonio, i'm like, really? you didn't get a real feeling of jamaica. >> you can go many places in the world and find natural beauty, people who are genuinely warm, where there is a strong culture, food, strong culture in terms of music. and at the same time be able to be a part of a community and you can be a visitor without being a part of the tourist industry. ♪ ♪
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♪ ♪ ♪ hello. >> during world war ii british naval intelligence officer came to jamaica to investigate the possibility of u-boat
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activities. like the legendary character he would later create, he was a spy. the mission came to nothing, but fleming fell immediately in love with the island and vowed to return. which he did, buying this place. at the time considered very spartan, a cottage, a single room really, a few smaller rooms in the back, but an incredible view. he spent much of the rest of his life here writing a book each year at this desk. you know those books. today fleming's cottage has been enlarged and made more luxurious as a hotel. but the original house still stands along with some improvements. what did every young american boy want, every red blooded american male in 1956? i can tell you, they wanted a grato. it sounded pretty good to me at
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12. as i got older i started to think about those things, who was in that grato before me. it becomes more of a concern as you grow up. did ron jeremy just leave the grato? am i the first one in the grato? did someone change the water in the grato? but this was it. i wanted a grato. i still kind of do. thank you so much. this is totally better than the play boy mansion. you know that the play boy mansion totally smells like old man ear stink. the current owner of golden eye is another unusual man, chris blackwell, legendary music producer turned hotelier. over the years, blackwell has expanded the property into a
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resort. its gates reaching right up to the fishing beach at neighboring or cabesa. caldwell has big plans for the area. ♪ ♪ the next day i leave golden eye's luxurious embrace headed into town for, well, something i just had to have, a long time favorite. >> what do we have here? ox tail, curry goat. i don't care if it's the bronx or kingston or wherever i can get it, ox tail, can you remember -- curried goat, rice and pigeon peas. i love this food. it's such a mix. africa. a lot of people totally miss out. curry goat. that's from the east indies what
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they used to call. >> that's true. >> chef chris's shop is something of of a local institution, a thriving business in a town that's seen better days. how long have you been open here? >> i've been open in this little shop for 13 years. >> 13 years? >> yeah, man. >> the town changed in that town or stayed the same? >> well, right now, you know, our economy is not doing good right now, so -- >> why not? it's one of the most beautiful areas of the year. >> beautiful waterfront. what more could a guy ask for? >> what do you think went wrong? why would people stop coming? >> i guess in the top seat messed it up so they're trying to correct it now. >> it's expanding fast. >> yeah, it is. >> the town. they're going to be filled in all the way. >> all the way down there. >> all the way around. >> so that's thousands of tourists. >> to be honest, i'm waiting for
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that moment. i don't want to think. ♪ ♪ >> we really need that because this town was dying fast, real fast. so chris blackwell came back and he's booming the town. it's a good step in the right direction. >> oh, thank you. oh, yeah, see, now i'm happy. that is just beautiful. nice place to grow up? >> it is. >> what's it like being a kid? >> my childhood days i used to spend on the beach. >> that's good. who gets to do that? >> i guess only me and my friends. >> do you ever take it for granted, do you ever get -- >> we do. >> do you? >> we do. the thing about it, when we really need it, that's the time we can't have it, you know? a lot of our waterfronts have been gone. we have very little right now. you know, it's okay. we have james bond beach like
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ten minutes walk from here, so at least we're one of the lucky ones. ahh... summer is coming.
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that next door to golden eye there would be a james bond beach. >> all of the movies were conceptualized and written here. >> when blackwell heard i wanted to visit the local fishermen, he hooked me up with his good friend carl to accompany me. i'm here to hit local hose, a rock bar where one can indulge in a fisherman's breakfast, rum. so we're drinking rum here, we're brinkidrinking beer or ru beer? >> it's hard core. >> you're recommending rum or beer? >> only one part of rum. and four parts of beer. no water. no ice. try that. it's steel bottom, meaning it's none -- >> it's good. that will work. >> and you can take it to your
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dimension. >> so who fishes here? you fish? what do you fish for? >> it's multiple fishing. your snapper. >> is business better these days or worse these days? worse? >> over fishing is a problem. >> this is a fishing village for now, at least. all throughout the caribbean, fish stocks are in decline and making a living from the sea is getting harder and harder. >> so, right here has become a fishing sanctuary. we're trying to now revive the fish stock around the island. >> so this becomes a protected sanctuary, what are you going to do for a living? >> so we have to go further out to sea for deep sea fishing. >> that means more gas? >> more gas, more economic, less fish. so it's a strain, right? >> is there a future for the traditional fishing industry in jamaica or do you think like
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every place else in the caribbean, is it going to end up an entirely tourist economy? >> the island just up the road, love this part, just like this, blackwell. and they're going to tell me i cannot fish in there. >> here's what i'm kind of getting at. rich people want to live what they see as a simple life. in their minds, they want to live the life of a jamaican fisherman. they want to live the life of somebody who doesn't have a lot of money. but the people who actually do that now are giving up their living and entering the tourist sector. there is a certain amount of weird irony at work here. who gets to live in paradise? >> nobody. because, guess what? >> you have a good point. >> there's a lot of thing going on here, right? i write a piece of paper a couple months ago that's going on down here, right.
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native here don't have a beach in few months' time. >> this architect's model sipts in golden eye's model showing what oracabesa will look like if all goes to plan. >> come inside here. >> i'm no expert on local politics, but whatever is going on here has clearly stirred up some strong emotions. >> see this tree here? that's a school kid, has to go to school. they own that. >> wait a minute. >> hold on, hold on, hold on. >> wait a minute, chris. >> stop talk. >> why i have to stop?
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>> stop talk. we not want you no more of that. stop talk. stop talk. >> all right, all right, leave, man, stop talk. come here, come here. sit down. >> don't do that. >> just sit down. >> we have to kickback and cool. >> which is better, to be your own man, uphold family tradition in a dangerous, ever shrinking, ever more difficult business, trying to catch fish in the sea, or carry a golf bag for a wealthy tourist? i couldn't tell you. i was in the service industry cooking people's food for most of my working life. so it's not like i have anything against it, but i don't know.
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>> let us find the spirit in man and travel to the unknown. because we are here in the present, it not just started. this is coming way out of the unknown, out of the nothingness and we are going to go on into information highway, into the celestials. we are what is called austral travelers. if one man die, all man dead. if one man live, all man live. tolerance. one dog, one fold, one cold, one post, one moon, one sun. it has a multi purpose and sustain energy and life. you have black, blue, green, pink, yellow, river, sea,
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mountain, bird, dog, man. everything is related. the car, the money, everything is connected to the universe. so one person does not realize how vulnerable we are within the changes of time. earth will not disappear. >> it's i and i.
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♪ ♪ who gets to live in paradise? it's jamaica. let's accept as a basic premise this is as close to paradise as it gets, right? this place i'm staying was built by a guy who lived here two months out of the year. that place down there probably the same, two months a year. sad to say, i think it's unlikely that 50 years from now anyone but the extraordinarily fortunate, the extraordinarily connected, the extraordinarily rich will be able to even look at a vista like this. that is my personal theory.
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look, here i am. the irony of the situation. it's like the whole preservation thing. who preserve for who? save the reef, for who? save the beach, for whom? not you. probably. ♪ ♪ later that evening blackwell invited me to his private bar just down the cliff from fleming's old villa. there are very few pieces of land anywhere on earth-like this, especially with this kind of legendary status.
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>> legendary status, yes. it's fleming, bond's birth place. >> chris blackwell is the founder of island records. he's credited with discovering bob marly and spreading the gospel of reggae all over the world. could one person be responsible for the sound track of your life? you are responsible for much of the sound track of my life. you signed roxy music and brian both. >> yes. >> did you have any idea signing bob marley the extent to which his image alone would blow up to, you know, che guevarra level? >> bob managed to touch people in every corner of the world, different cultures, different societies. no, i never could have imagined.
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i don't think anybody could have imagined. it's so unbelievable. >> having sold island records for some rumored to be in the hundreds of millions of dollars, blackwell spends his time, well, doing whatever he wants. you have a number of hotel properties, rum business? >> uh-huh. >> what's the master plan? or are you just having fun? >> always is to have fun is part of the master plan. you only live around here one time, so i'm very excited about here, what i'm doing here. i'm trying to break a little resort town, something that filters into town, filters into the parish, filters into the country. >> lately the project at hand is the oracabesa fish sanctuary set up to protect the local fish habitat and breeding ground. a noble cause, but one that has put blackwell squarely at odds
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with some of his neighbors. it seems to me that most people who come to jamaica pretty much stay within the compound, you know, sandals or whatever, and don't really get out there much. >> it's a business model and that business model works well for people. ♪ ♪ >> the market that i'm going for are the ones on the high level in terms of high-cost level. >> is it ininevitability that basically all of the caribbean, it's essentially going to end up as a service economy? >> yes, i think -- yes, i think mainly so. it's based on tourism. it's based on people visiting. >> it's a tough balance. >> t the engine that's going to preserve or save is dependent on who is going to look and what
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they're willing to pay to come and look. can there be a balance, you sni can a place this beautiful be unspoiled? forever? >> i think there could be a couple hundred places like this in jamaica. as long as there are people who can go and spend some money in communities, go to a little restaurant, go to a little bar, go to, you know, shop, that's essential for jamaica to really thrive. >> if life were a bond film, who would you be in a bond film? >> well, there's only one here on the bond film. >> you'd be the hero? >> i'd have to be. i'd have to figure that out. yes. >> i don't know if i'd be the villain. i'd be like number 17. >> a happy ending and his end is quite short. if you have medicare
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♪ ♪
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what we're all looking for, isn't it, the perfect beach. remote, uncluttered by touchery, cold local beer. the perfect end to a long and, well, bumpy road. winn efred's beach is that beach. mostly locals, a few conclude in visitors, white sand, clear, warm water. and, of course, local food. >> this is aki, jamaica favorite dish. we use it as a breakfast. >> cynthia and dennis run this place and come highly recommended. i'm told this is the spot for the classic got to have it, or
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you ain't really been to jamaica ackee and saltfish. salt cod, rehydrated and cooked with ackee which happens to be toxic if you don't handle it right. they say the best ackee and saltfish in jamaica. also some banana. >> delicious. >> that is delicious. cynthia's friends joy and marjorie have little restaurants or foot stalls on the beach, and they tell me that here, too, it's in danger of redevelopment. that all this might disappear into the ever-churning wheel of, well -- ♪ ♪ >> the beach is a public beach. it has been one of the best beach in jamaica. the beach was left to the poor people of jamaica. >> so the government takes it
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over, supposedly to make it a public space, but they want to sell it to, what, a hotel group? >> yeah, they want to make like a resort. >> there are a lot of islands in the caribbean where you're not allowed to own a beach, meaning all beaches are public even if it's a really exclusive hotel. at least theoretically, anybody can go. >> right. >> here it's different. here, if you can buy a house and the beach, you're a hotel, you can make it a private beach. meaning they don't let the locals on or vendors. they can keep people out. >> right. >> so, how many public access beaches are there in this area? >> one. >> just one. >> this one. >> that's it, no more. >> no more beach. >> we have other beaches around, you know. we have blue lagoon which is a private beach, dragon bay is private. this is the only public one, you know? >> yeah, what happens if -- i mean, that would be sort of ridiculous if jamaicans can't go to the beach in jamaica. >> exactly.
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>> there are two sides to every story, of course, and the government, for its part, claims locals will still have access to their beach. >> we don't trust them, so we do not believe what they said. >> they want to get us off and -- they don't do anything on it and close it off. >> right. ♪ ♪ >> what kind of monstrous human being or organization would displace the people from their own beach? >> yes. >> from our freedom. >> they take this away from us. >> thank you very much. >> we are like we are in prison because when the time is hot, we would have nowhere to come and swim. >> so we, the people, we are in court with the government because we do not want them to take away the one and only beach
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that we have in jamaica, portland. >> what do you think your chance s are? do you think your chances are good? >> yes. >> you're going to win? >> yes. >> i've been fighting over 70 years. >> trusting the lord. >> 70 years. >> trusting the lord. >> i'm going to fight until i reach the top. when i reach the top and i lose, i feel much better, but i'm not giving up. >> let's face it. there are only so many beaches in this world. even fewer unspoiled beaches, and even fewer beaches like this. i mean, that's one of the things that's nice about this area, is it's not a big resort area like some of the other parts. and the food is amazing. >> right. >> delicious. >> nice food. >> you can't get this at the hotel. >> they get it, but not like this. >> not so fresh. >> really, really tasty. i have to come back here like tomorrow. >> whenever people come here and
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they have problem, they go to the sea and they look over there in the ocean. and when they're finished, they never have a problem again. it goes right in the water and down. and i hope that the world can see what is going on at winn ifred beach and they can come and enjoy the beach, the nature of the beach and the people and the love of the beach. >> right. ahh... summer is coming. and it's time to get outside. pack in even more adventure with audible. with the largest selection of audiobooks. audible lets you follow plot twists off the beaten track. or discover magic when you hit the open road. with the free audible app, your stories go wherever you do.
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and for just $14.95 a month you get a credit, good for any audiobook. if you don't like it exchange it any time. no questions asked. you can also roll your credits to the next month if you don't use them. so take audible with you this summer... on the road... on the trail... or to the beach. start a 30-day trial and your first audiobook is free. cancel anytime, and your books are yours to keep forever. no matter where you go this summer make it better with audible. text summer5 to 500500 to start listening today.
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♪ ♪ next day and i know where i'm going. ♪ ♪ because you never know. it may not be here that much longer, not like this, anyway. sun, sand, rum, and ting and some more food. ♪ ♪ >> oh, yeah.
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♪ ♪ hi. wow, what a spread. i'm not going hungry today. beautiful. thank you. i'm so excited. >> thank you. that is actually quite delicious. you're not missing out on starches. you have yam, plantain, rice, bread fruit, peas, corn, carrot, dumpling, festival. like the man said, eat dessert first. life is uncertain. um, that's good. i knew ways comii was coming ba. it was a smart move to come back
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here. these ladies can cook. point being the way the world turns, the inevitable grind of history seems to indicate that places like this and people like this get plowed under, pushed aside, paved over. who owns paradise, after all? who in the end gets to own paradise? use paradise? or even visit it? that's a question that's probably worth paying attention to before there is none left at all. ♪ ♪ how do you do this and be a good person? i don't think you can. like, if you wanted to do this regularly for the rest of your life, i would like to spend
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three months out of the year in a hammock looking out at the caribbean in a secluded beach like this. you'd have to do bad things to do this, right? james bond doesn't get this. james bond is a hustler. he gets this for a couple days before he moves on to the next location. the guy who lives here is the bond villain, not james bond. ian fleming was much closer to like blowfeld or hugo drachts. those guys have lot of leisure time spending time in hammocks, spending time thinking about how to take over the world. a lot of down time in world domination. bond was a working class. it's what i've been missing. all right.
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where's my cocktail? hate can't keep protestors off the streets as thousands of people march against trump's immigration policy. plus, rescuers are picking up the pace in thailand as they zero in on where the missing football team might be trapped. andrance and uroguay send the world's two biggest teams packing. welcome to our viewers in the united states and around the world, i'm anna coren, "cnn newsroom" starts right now. thousands of americans are calling for an end to the government's zero tolerance immigration policy. well, tha

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