i went looking for the dream of africa. i woke up in tanzania. ♪ ♪ ♪ after awhile, this beautiful world ♪ ♪ felt the cool rain on my shoulder ♪ ♪ found something good in this beautiful world ♪ ♪ i felt the rain on my shoulder ♪ ♪ sha-la-la-la-la,

sha-la-la-la-la ♪ ♪ sha-la-la-la n-la-la-la ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ the narrow streets and neatly dressed school chill ddr make it feel like a different africa than i've ever known. it's tight, small. the architecture speaks of many layers of a hierarchy long gone, but still evident.

the famous zanzibari doors, for instance. meticulously carved of mahogany antique. the patterns reveal details of the original inhabitants' ethnicities and professions. brass spikes evoke similar doors in india. the lotus flower, the historically egyptian symbol, is meant to promote fertility. and chains, a reminder that this once was a central hub of the slave trade. ♪ ♪ what zanzibar is today is overwhelmingly muslim. 90% of the population. and you see its strong influence everywhere you look. the children in hijab coming

from the madrasa. the streets are neat and private homes even of the very poor are maintained with great pride. the call to prayer five times a day. zanzabar part of tanzania, a semi autonomous state, sits 30 miles off the coast of the main land. >> the minute you cross the ocean, the main land, you feel like you're in a different country, a different culture, a different vibe. >> he is a native and former tour guide. he knows his way around these parts. so, what are our options here? >> this is what we call mandazi. >> a classic swahili treat, a donut or flipper. a fried len till fritter, indian spice with cumin, turmeric and coriander. grab a cup of coffee? >> let's do it.

>> if you live here, you're from here, chances are you start your day with some bitter spice coffee, talk about the issues of the day. politics for one. maybe a pastry. >> is that good? >> that's good. so, you're born and bred here. >> how long has your family here, how far back do you go? >> i'm african, my mother is indian. i'm 4th generation. >> starting out in? >> late 1700. >> who built this neighborhood? >> construction started in about 1830. we are portuguese. from 1846, they left in 1964. but they lost a lot of power in 1896. >> confused? let's take a step back. the persians were the first major power to set up here around 975 a.d., expanding their empire onto the strategically positioned island. then the portuguese used

zanzibar for their slave trade and spices. thenment omanis did the same, ultimately with the british who ruled through them. 1964, revolution. as with most revolutions, the days following were violent, chaotic, and ugly. after overthrowing the mostly arab government, reprizals. >> wasn't intended a revolution. more than 3,000 arabs were slaughtered and lot of indians were slaughtered. >> but your family stayed? >> my family stayed. >> why? >> there was no money in the family. they couldn't move out. >> there was no option? >> no option. >> just stayed with what was left? >> yes. >> tough times? >> very tough times. ♪ ♪ >> in about two hours from stone town, this is jambiani, a tiny fishing village. here the first revolutionaries would meet and plan for an

independent zanzibar. the first post resolution president served until his assassination in 1972. this, too, is abib, grandson of the country's first president. what was the situation, political situation back then? >> it wasn't good. basically it was english on top. arabs in the middle and africans way, way on the bottom. it was a form of apartheid, you know? >> was this village sort of a center for revolutionary -- >> this village was important in terms of the political support prior to the revolution when my grandfather and grandmother were staying right here and they had meetings on the field right over there. that's where they would have their meetings. to raise support for the african and chirasi people, their identity. to give equal rights to all people. revolution is the best thing when it comes to peaceful

transition. well, this is the house wahasani. they are preparing a wonderful lunch for us. [ speaking foreign language ] >> this is martha. she used to take care of my grandmother many, many years ago. [ speaking foreign language ] >> i'm looking forward to lunch. she was a close family friend to habib and his grandparents. and she's putting together quite a spread. coconut rice, freshly caught fish called tasi simmered in broth of garlic and lime topped with umchusi egg plant, cucumber

and tomato. lime juice and pan fried. >> now, this is good. >> oh, that's looking good. so, coconut rice. >> yeah. >> the bread from the other side of the water there. >> yes. >> this is casaba. >> pan fried bread? wow, what a spread here. >> and you can use your hands. >> good. the rice, i'll need help. um, good. >> what do you think of the casaba? >> lovely. the rice is great, too. whatever your feelings on revolutions, it is probably worth remembering that they start in places like this. people talking. and when they are won, they are often won by people who sat at the feet of the original planners, people who look like this. look at all these kids.

>> watch out. future revolutionaries. >> new ideas coming in that change things come from them. think about it. the challenges we face as a small island country. hard to preserve all these things and find balance. to me, i see africa as a whole, i see a very interesting time. >> hopeful? >> i'm very hopeful, actually. >> optimistic? >> i am optimistic. the people are a great people. if given the opportunity, i think they can put a lot on the table not only for themselves, but also for the culture in east africa and possibly even the world. i think they're great people. why not? the sky is the limit, right? any object. any surface.

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♪ >> anthony: say you're going to zanzibar, and people will tell you about the street food. it's pretty impressive. in stone town's forodhani gardens, every night vendors set up an insane variety of every iteration of seafood snack. oh yeah, oooh. i love some of that. >> street chef: the first one we've got tiger pawns. we have got some shrimps. we have an octopus, calamari mix here with masala spice. we have a scallop, shellfish. we have a mussel small shell. we have a -- like a tuna fish, red snapper, mahi-mahi, and red snapper. >> anthony: good. >> street chef: so, welcome.

>> anthony: i think, uh, let me try some, uh, some of the octopus. >> street chef: so how about lobster? >> anthony: uh -- >> street chef: yeah, with masala spice, but it's not hot. when it feel hot, we give you chile. >> anthony: i like hot. all right, good. give me some chile mango with that. okay, good. mm. octopus -- chewy but tasty. lobster's workin' for me. too spicy for you, man. yeah, believe me. only one of us is gonna be shittin' like a mink tonight, and it's not gonna be you. ooh. the famous zanzibar pizza. awesome. >> street chef: cut up the onion, beef, tomato fresh, cheese, mayonnaise, with egg. >> anthony: sounds awesome to me.

>> anthony: lookin' good. thank you. mm. weird and wonderful and -- mmm, damn. these stands are extremely popular with locals and visitors alike, so of course the government raised the rents. one guy, juma, decided to pick up and move his place a bit out of town. his customers came with him. >> saleh: this is juma. >> anthony: hey, juma. how are you? so, what are we havin'? >> saleh: yeah, you just have beef on a stick, chicken on a stick, half chicken, and all the spices and sauces that they have. i ordered beef for now. >> anthony: beef, good. ah, let's get half a chicken. >> saleh: half a chicken? >> anthony: yeah, sure. [ saleh speaking swahili ] [ juma speaking swahili ] >> anthony: juma is famous for his chicken.

the bird is slathered with a mixture of garlic, lime, coriander, ginger, salt and pepper, then it's grilled and served either as sauté, or whole pieces, topped with tamarind chili sauce. >> saleh: the preparation of all of this, they start in the morning, preparing, cutting, and then they come here at 6:30, and they finish about 10:00. >> anthony: how many guys are working here? >> saleh: there's about six, seven of them. >> anthony: six or seven of 'em? >> saleh: all around the table. >> anthony: wow, this looks like a big operation. okay, he's finishing the skewers. i guess he's half-cooking or saucing. he's reheating, finishing the skewers. that guy just doesn't set up plates for him to top with meat, and i guess they got the bread and the sauce and finishing it to go also. what are they squirting on the fries? >> saleh: there's hot sauce, there's ketchup, and there's tamarind. >> anthony: say, you'd never go hungry here. there's always food in the street. >> saleh: if you come here to buy ten skewers, you end up actually buying 20 or 30 because somebody's always asking for

food and you're always buying. it's just the culture. no one says no to each other for food. >> anthony: hey, there we go. >> saleh: that's us, and you use the stick as your fork. >> anthony: hot, hot, hot. oh. where do you think the recipe came from? this is a real mixed-up history here. >> saleh: it's mostly arabic, indian components have been here. the spices, most of the trees. like, mangoes came from india, pineapples came from brazil. >> anthony: tamarind, southeast asia. like not even indian. >> saleh: you get it in india. >> anthony: mmm. damn, that's good. i'll tell ya, this chicken's really awesome. might need some more of this. i'm liking the heat in that. whew. good stuff. incredible. the 250-mile flight form

zanzibar across the water to the town of arusha takes just an hour and a half, but culturally, you might as well be flying from texas to the philippines. kilimanjaro. into whose white peak hemingway's gangrenous hero saw himself disappear as he slipped into death. from there we head into the serengeti. ♪ a journey of this kind, one must

expect the occasional setback. ♪ ♪ we reach the eastern edge of the serengeti, where it's a steep climb to the rim of the magnificent ngorongoro crater. once a massive volcano that somewhere around 2.5 million years ago, collapsed in on itself creating this caldera, a true lost world. inside the crater an entire ecosystem within an ecosystem. wildlife pretty much stay put, coming to drink, well, right below my place. it's nice -- very, very nice if you find yourself here.

a hot bubble bath awaits after a long day in the bush. perhaps a dry sherry from a cut glass decanter. the next morning one rises to breakfast in one's chambers, on the balcony perhaps. silver service, hot coffee, freshly baked croissant. morning. thank you, sir. >> waiter: you're welcome. enjoy. >> anthony: the rules of the house, while slightly restricting, are sensible enough. and given the luxurious surroundings and the view, hardly a burden. not supposed to wander around at night here unescorted because, like, lions and hyenas and elephants and stuff. and while i'm told a baboon can get rape-y, um, there were no knocks on the door. you know, i know what you're thinking already, "you're not gonna do what i think you're gonna do, are you? you're not gonna out there and

shoot some beautiful animal in the brain." no. answer -- no. what kinda sick -- wants to shoot an elephant? even the toilet has a nice view. this is pretty much what you see, as you're sitting on the snakes. idyllic, natural setting and good plumbing. it's pretty much paradise. chicken?! chicken. chicken! that's right, candace-- new chicken creations from starkist. buffalo style chicken in a pouch-- bold choice, charlie! just tear, eat... mmmmm. and go! try all of my chicken creations! chicken!

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(burke) so we know how to cover almost anything.en almost everything even "vengeful vermin." not so cute when they're angry. and we covered it. talk to farmers. we know a thing or two because we've seen a thing or two. ♪ we are farmers. bum-pa-dum, bum-bum-bum-bum ♪

♪ >> anthony: it's nuts driving into the serengeti. after a short while you actually get used to the "jungle book" scene playing out in front of your car. it's interesting to see the giraffe and wildebeest, zebra, they all seem to hang out with each other. no conflict at all. >> colin: pretty much, there's

no conflict in what they want to eat. it starts with elephants, buffalos taking the big stuff out, zebras follow down, and then the wildebeest are the really close crop. >> anthony: my guide is colin mcconnell, a fourth-generation african, born in kenya, who lives in tanzania, and knows this area like i know the deli counter at barney greengrass. >> colin: so this is the edge of the woodland here. just about every tree you see here that's lying on its side hasn't fallen over out of choice, it's been pushed over by elephants. there's an elephant over there. >> anthony: oh, yeah. whoa. >> colin: he's a big bull. >> anthony: magnificent. will he charge us? >> colin: nah. >> anthony: if we piss him off? >> colin: if we pissed him off he would. [ colin chuckles ]

they sleep so soundly, these zebra. you can creep right up. see him jump up? >> anthony: zebras and more zebras. so many you almost get bored seeing a herd of them. giraffes looking only slightly irritated to be interrupted, and evermore massive herds, stadium-sized crowds of wildebeests. a phish concert of these unkempt-looking things every few hundred yards. all that's missing is a hacky sack. >> colin: everyone's come to terms now that the wildebeest migration means wildebeests jumping into rivers. i mean, the fact that that only happens two months out of the whole year. the rest of the year, they're trekking through the bush. to me, this is so much more spectacular, you see these big numbers. you'll be in an area this morning that was full of wildebeests, and go there this afternoon and there's not one. they've moved.

>> anthony: thousands and thousands of wildebeests on their annual migration are everywhere. a big circle, stretched out across tanzania and into kenya, in search of prime grazing. it's all about water and grass and a good place to make babies. >> colin: i mean, look at this little guy. he's keeping up with his mum. >> anthony: yeah, he's doin' okay. >> colin: within 15 minutes of being born, they're up and standing. >> anthony: really? >> colin: running as fast as their mums within a couple of hours. there's a wildebeest that didn't make it. >> anthony: how old is that, you think? >> colin: a day or two. >> anthony: oh, really? >> colin: oh, yeah, yeah. >> anthony: that's all? >> colin: very fresh, very fresh. >> anthony: wow. >> anthony: you don't wanna get lost here. you definitely don't want to be on foot, outside of your car, or injured, for instance. nature, as they say, is a cruel mistress. it takes care of its own without mercy. the evidence of this cruel math called "survival" is everywhere. non-immediate family are not

gonna help a brother out. >> colin: no. you'd think, yeah? >> anthony: start limping, first come the hyenas. >> colin: the hyenas see the vultures dropping. >> anthony: right. >> colin: and that's the key to them that there's some food up, and the vultures really need the hyenas to rip open the skin to start eating it. >> anthony: by the time they finished ripping out your soft parts, treating your femur like a chew toy, the vultures and the marabou storks, lovingly called the undertaker birds, have been waiting for their turn. i don't know about you, but whenever i have cause to reflect on a pack of hyenas tunneling into an ass and ripping out the guts, i think, "you know what? i could really go for some pesto right now." by lake masek we pause for lunch. indigenous specialties like penne with pesto, steamed baby corn and snow peas, grilled tomatoes sprinkled with parmesan. oh, look. brownies. boy, those hippos are comin' in close. >> colin: yeah, they can smell the pasta. >> anthony: they love pesto. [ colin laughs ] >> anthony: they're comin' to

shore. >> colin: you're safe. >> anthony: over thankfully cold beers, i learn who is really the most dangerous animal around here. yeah, that's right -- mr. loveable, funny hippo. always in a tutu in the cartoons, a vicious, unpredictable, and apparently, incredibly fast-moving killer. >> colin: you know, you have to leave here and go for a pee behind the tree there. >> anthony: yeah. >> colin: and come face-to-face with this hippo. the hippo would easily outrun you. one big chomp. big tusks go straight through you, chop you in half. >> anthony: just get between them and their mud-hole, and they'll be all over you like justin bieber's bodyguards. it can get ugly. what do hippo penises look like? i -- >> colin: i have no idea. >> anthony: a hippo never emerges from the water with like a raging -- hippo hard on. >> colin: not that i have seen. >> anthony: really? >> colin: no. they're underwater. i don't go snorkeling. >> anthony: i find that comforting to know.

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♪ [ maasai chanting and singing ] >> anthony: they are among the

last great warrior tribes on earth. semi-nomadic, they believe that all the world's cattle are a gift of the gods to them, the maasai people. they move with their animals across the tanzanian plains, setting up homes where they find the best grazing. their cattle are everything -- the wealth of the family, units of currency, givers of milk to live and, on special occasions, of meat and blood. the maasai construct their villages, or bomas, like this. as strategic hamlets, designed to repel and discourage predators. >> ingela: you have a lot of livestock comin' in here. a lot of the other, like, the migratory games they've all taken off. so this area is quite famous for the cats, for the big cats.

>> anthony: the big cats, lions, roam free here, an area of the serengeti called ndutu. >> ingela: it's a paradox. i mean, the lions are an enemy to them, they are a competitor, but they're also something that they greatly admire. that's the -- the map. >> anthony: swedish native ingela jansson, a field biologist with the serengeti lion project, is trying to find a balance between the needs, traditions and basic identity of the maasai people and the outside world's desire to protect these beautiful killing machines. this is what can happen when a maasai warrior defending his cattle takes on a hungry adult lion. nobody wants this. for the maasai, being apprised of the comings and goings of the lion population is a useful thing. preferable to find out in advance, one would think, and take evasive action, than the

alternative. but remember, too, and respect, that the maasai have always defined themselves and their identities by their enemy. a tribe of proud warriors. what happens when there's no one and nothing to fight? ingela has brought several maasai onto her team to show them up close the lions they share this land with. >> ingela: so often are my days out when i'm working with the maasai, you don't eat at all. you get a cup of tea in the morning and then, if you're lucky, in the rainy season you'll get either fresh milk or this. >> anthony: this is amasi, by the way. a lumpy yogurt-like drink central to the maasai diet. >> ingela: cheers. >> anthony: cheers. and before you say yuck, it might be worth noting that between their nearly 100% protein diet of meat, blood, and dairy, the maasai are known to have near super-human cardio. olympic-level stamina and condition. they can run miles at a time without rest or water and can basically kick your ass at near

any physical contest given half the chance. so, help yourself to some sour, lumpy goodness. not bad. put a little honey, some raisins in there. good to go. >> ingela: it's so different here. like, the rainy season, dry season. such different challenges. what do you think of going under here? >> anthony: i'm okay with it. currently ingela's been tracking two lions in particular -- ramos and puyol.

>> ingela: ooh. ah, ramos is there. do you see him? >> anthony: i see. yes, i do. there they are. i see them. wow. two of them. >> ingela: yeah. >> anthony: you like them, don't you? >> ingela: oh, they're -- they're magnificent. very admirable. he's a bit of a warrior that one. should we try and -- >> anthony: yeah. >> ingela: -- approach them? >> anthony: yeah. >> ingela: when you go for lions you don't -- never drive straight on them. >> anthony: right. >> ingela: you, kind of, go in an angle. that relaxes them a lot more. that's funny how they pretend they don't see you. and they're so completely aware. so basically what we look at to identify them are the spots.

>> what's the total population of lions countrywide? >> 25 to 50% of the total population of lions, so it's an important country for it. and the last estimate is 30,000 lions remaining. i think it's not so much the worry of the size, but it's the rapid decrease. we've lost large predators in the big part of the world. the world carries on. you would probably have other predators to take their place, you know, there would be the hyenas, of the cheetahs, the lep ards. they couldn't take the big prey like the lion does. if you think about it that way, lions are a big show of an eco system that is healthy. they're important to that. 20, 22 hours of the day they relax. when you see a sleeping cat -- >> they are beautiful.

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he has 4 wives, 12 children, a handful of whom are old enough to be out looking out for the herds. >> ole: where are you from, tony? >> anthony: i was born in new jersey and live in new york. >> ole: oh. >> anthony: you have a son in new jersey, yeah? >> ole: yes, yes. he's studies at one of the colleges known at montclair state. >> anthony: oh sure, i know montclair very well. >> ole: oh yeah? >> anthony: it's near where i grew up. >> ole: oh yes. [ thunder ] >> ingela: wow, look at that. look at that cloud there. there's going to be some downpour. well, do you think it comes here, ole durup? >> ole: no. >> ingela: no? >> ole: no. >> anthony: not us? >> ingela: it's funny, like, they always know what the clouds are doing. it's their weather reports out here. >> anthony: the maasai have been migrating with the seasons since they came to this part of africa sometime in the 15th century, long, long, before the serengeti became a national park. and here we run into the kind of

existential conflict we'll be seeing more and more of as the world decides what they value most. unspoiled expanses of nature, populated still with magnificent, wild, but aggressively protected animals, or the indigenous people. >> ingela: the aim for our project is promoting co-existence with lions. so when i came here to start up lion guardians. >> ole: oh, yes. they say, "no." "why?" >> ingela: -- but there were many among the maasai that were very, sort of, suspicious. they thought this is going to lead to us being kicked out, that's a constant fear in this area. >> ole: because in the past the maasai go to find the lion where they are and they kill them. but today we stopped that. or we can kill if no way. >> anthony: if you have no alternative. >> ole: yeah. that's why we have the spear. we are not heartless people but we carry the spear all the time for protection only. >> ingela: the maasai, they trust that we're not here to kick them out, that we're here to work with them.

and, uh, we're foreseeing that we're going to be able to start the lion guardian project, which basically you hire maasai to protect the lions rather than kill them. >> anthony: with all the cattle the maasai people have, how do you protect them from predators? >> ole: the animals are very smart about, if you do not bother them, they do not bother you. >> anthony: so, how about when they're grazing? >> ole: uh-huh. when they're grazing we have people who follow out. >> anthony: and that's enough to discourage hyenas or lions? >> ole: mm-hmm. mm-hmm. hmm. yes, yes. but sometimes they're happy lions. so, they making allowed to show themselves that they are very happy and the way to make that they say -- [ lion noise ] that's when they get happy, you know? and that's -- if they just like to catch something, you can hear very close, only like -- [ lion purring noise ] and they'll stop or they'll sound a lot like a --

[ lion noise ] >> anthony: that's a happy one. >> ole: that's a happy one. >> anthony: no, no problem. >> ole: no problem. >> anthony: but that purring one, that, that, the second noise, that -- that's not good. >> ole: mm-hmm. that one is not good. >> anthony: that's not a "here, kitty" situation. >> ole: that sound is, "oh this one must be looking for finding food." maybe. >> anthony: okay. no. my cat hates me. >> ole: yeah. [ ole laughs ] >> anthony: okay. this a lot of you are going to find very disturbing. i'm guessing the little goat over there is about to get the bad news? >> ole: come now. you can touch like this. yep. >> anthony: i try and be a good guest. i eat what my hosts put in front of me. i try to take responsibility if something dies for my dinner. stand here?

>> ole: no, no, no, here. >> anthony: and just hold -- >> ole: hold this really hard. >> anthony: so when the chief asked if i cared to do the honors and tells me how it has to be done, i'm not happy. in fact, as i close off its air passages i'm struggling not to throw up on myself. >> ole: now he is ready, yep. tony, do you know how to skin it? >> anthony: uh, not well enough. >> ole: i can show you, maybe i can show you, and then i can go ahead, okay? >> anthony: the maasai traditionally kill their goats by suffocation, for very good reason, it turns out -- to keep the blood, which is a vital component for the maasai diet, intact and abundant in the chest cavity. >> ole: now continue now to slaughter that, take the skin

out. so you can cut here. >> anthony: just right through? >> ole: yeah. oh good. here now, you cut like this. good. then continue like this. more, yep, a little more, good. >> anthony: yeah, everything's intact. beautiful. >> ole: the -- this blood, so all the blood. >> anthony: right. so it filled up the cavity and started to get coagulated. >> ole: yes, yes, yes. >> anthony: i get it now. >> ole: it's easier now to take the blood out. >> anthony: right, wow. >> ole: yeah. >> anthony: that's really -- i've never seen that. that's super cool. >> ole: yes. someone like to drink fresh? >> anthony: sure. hey, not bad. >> ole: oh, it's good.

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gums are good, so is my check-up! crest. healthy, beautiful smiles for life. >> ole: that is smelling good, that's -- >> ingela: yeah, it's true, they're smelling good. i'm not too much a meat eater, but this -- i kind of like the goat. >> anthony: even on the serengeti, it ain't a barbecue if there ain't some kind of beer. >> ole: normally we, the maasai, we love honey. we have -- we have called honey beer. you drink, it tastes very strong. so we have it here. >> anthony: i'd love to try some. [ speaking maasai ] >> anthony: i've noticed a palpable change in the mood. [ ole speaking maasai ]

>> ole: here. [ ingela speaking maasai ] [ ole speaking maasai ] >> anthony: not bad. >> ingela: pretty tasty. ooh, it's refreshing as well. >> anthony: it's like a palm wine. or even like, kinda pulque-like taste also. >> ingela: you can definitely taste the honey. the sweetness of it. >> anthony: yeah. >> ole: according to our culture, everyone has to carry a big knife. >> anthony: everybody's ready. >> ole: yeah. >> anthony: many aspects of their lifestyle and traditions remain unchanged. awesome.

this does not mean the maasai don't have cell phones by the way. everybody does. >> ole: as you say, we are talking about how can we balance this because we're now looking to send our children to school, getting a good education. but we still are staying a very strong culture. yeah, it's really -- it can be, like, a hard time but, uh, we continue. >> anthony: well, that's another question. you know? when your son comes back from new jersey -- you know, is your son going to want a motorcycle? is he going to want a car? is he going to want a flat-screen tv? >> ole: uh, i don't know for the future because, uh, as you know the children they are very quickly changing their mind. maybe one day come in as new jersey boy, i don't know. >> anthony: it's beautiful this country, this part of africa.

geographically huge, but not really, as the world and what we need to live in it shrinks everyday. who gets to live here? who or what do we want to see is for better or worse going to determine that. nearly $1.5 billion is spent here every year by people who come wanting to look mostly at beautiful animals. that is an amount that is hard to argue with and impossible to outrun.

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