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tv   Anthony Bourdain Parts Unknown  CNN  September 8, 2018 10:00pm-11:01pm PDT

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than most in a proud and unique style.
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♪ felt the cool rain ♪ on my shoulder ♪ beautiful world ♪ i felt the rain getting
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colder ♪ ♪ shah la la >> anthony: los angeles. maybe the most filmed televised and most looked at place on earth. it's the landscape of our collective dreams. but what if we look at l.a. from the point of view of the largely
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unphotographed. the 47% of angelinos the people doing most if not all of the hard work of getting things done in this world. one in ten angelinos are undocumented. one in ten. think about that number for a while. that's who is here now. contemplate, if you will, what would happen if any where near 10% of the workforce were no longer here. particularly since they are rather over represented in the fields that most of us are in no hurry to enter. los angeles, like much of california, used to be part of mexico. now, mexico, or a whole lot of
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mexicans are a vital part of us. raul is a professor of chicano studios at ucla. push back on washington boulevard is in the city of mexico. >> so you know about this, right? >> anthony: the market, isn't it? >> it's this village in the middle of a valley. and oldest valley where agricultural was invented in the world. these people that lived here lived there for about 10,000 years, so archeological evidence of the seeds actually being manipulated all the way back then. and that's where the core of the
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mullet is that we are going to eat tonight are from. >> anthony: black mola is incredibly old magical substance containing over 30 different ingredients. it's an old sauce from an old culture. used as either a base to build a stew or as a sauce to be poured over meat. but unlike most sauces the point of mola is the mola itself. the flavor is unique, rosed sweet bitter and spicy at the time, and deep, very, very deep. ramos is the owner and chef. third generation of a family of barbara coa specialist that being the barbecuing of lamb be and goat until it's pulling apart perfectly. she started out cooking at 10 in the market. this family goes back a number of generations to that area,
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yes? >> exactly. and they got here because they were migrant workers infields of l.a. and that's where they started working in the restaurant. >> anthony: they were here long after the election. there is actually a national conversation now unthinkable in my lifetime where the notion of rounding up, however many millions of undocumented workers in this country, all at once, or in short order, and then kicking them all out. i think it seems unthinkable. but i mean they said that in europe in the 30s. >> right. i think just from a military logistical point of view, there is no way you are going to move the people out of california and los angeles. they tried that in 1954 operation wet back. mostly from the fields moving a million people out. right. >> anthony: they did. and what happened? >> well, first of all, a huge amount of u.s. citizens were picked up one day and never came
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home and families were torn apart. and then the most ironic thing about it, and most tragic thing is the next couple of years they said you know what we have to open the borders to bring them all back. right. the problem was we never stopped wanting the workers. california number one agricultural state. and approximately about 70% of the labor force is undocumented. >> anthony: stuff would rot in the fields. >> right. number one who would grow it and bring it here? >> anthony: picking it, packing it to, a great extent processing it, cooking it, serving it, cleaning up after you. >> i mean, there would not only be no restaurant business, but the worst economic crisis in the history of california and the united states.
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>> anthony: estevan is respected highly sought after frofer and director known for his street portraits. he started his career as nightclub bouncer turning to cyprus hill and house of pain, taking beautiful photographs along the way. now nearly 20 years later he's famous for capturing both perfectly the glamour and grit of his hometown, los angeles. mr. cartoon is a very famous tattoo artist and designer. cartoon began air brushing tee shirts of low riders before adopting an excelling at the fine tattoo artist. his style is south after by the most successful and anybody who
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loves truly suburb skin art. moreno on late 7th is it a late night thing where they used to live. run by abigail and their team they serve mow lit tas. not quite a taco. not a case dill a, more of a taco sandwich. first the tore tillo on the grill, then marinated meat, cheese, another tortilla, flip and serve. moreno is located downtown arts but across from boyle heights densely packed neighborhood of about 100,000 residents. nearly 95% are mexican or central american. >> mexican is l.a. >> how deep does it go, all the people, all the names, you can go in certain parts in east la, harbor area of, hollywood area and see nothing but latinos.
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a lot of other areas in l.a. are mixed, you know. but on this side where we are at, go over that bridge, it's pretty much all mexican people. . and l.a. is mixed with central america, guad mallian, so they get called mexicans, too. like we are chicanos, we know we were born on this side of the line. our family relatives are from mexico and we are proud of that and celebrate in our style. >> anthony: but we live in unbelievable times. people are talking about mass deportations of mexicans. what's the problem? where does the fear and loathing comes from? >> it's racism is still alive and kicking in america. we don't really here it from people we are around. we are around artistic laid back people. >> anthony: some i had ydiots s
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have to do something about this. >> where would the food come from? there wasn't an asian fusion truck here. indian food truck. this truck, that truck. >> anthony: taco truck. we opened the door. >> kicked the door down, yeah. >> anthony: white america loves mexican food probably more than any other food alt this time. they sure like cheap mexican labor because they can't live without it. >> right. >> anthony: why are they so freaked out about mexicans? nobody is telling them to build a wall in parts of canadian border. >> anthony: who will help them build the wall? you have to have mexican power to do that. >> anthony: that's kexactly wha i thought.
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cilantro in mexico because they are hitting at it because of trump. i said don't get me wrong i'm not sure they have that level of organization going on, mexican cilantro. let's gather around and all start brainstorming. no idea is a bad idea. crazy eddie. okay. this is a little outside the box, but i say we hit in the [ bleep ] cilantro. >> anthony: how amex can is mexican. how mexican can you be or should you be in you grew up in california with amex can name and mexican heritage? he's a ka median and we
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discussed weighty matters onnal vera straight which is the place that is serving the kind of stuff that made americans fall in love with the food since the 1930s. beans and spicy sauce and cheese. i believe they call these things a burrito. but what they are known for here is their tach ketos. rolled up and fried and smothered in sauce and cilantro. >> anthony: oh, yeah, i'm loving the sauce already. >> this is legendary sauce going back to 1934, gawk moll loa mol you don't think it will work, but it does. spice at the end. >> anthony: by your own admission you are a sorry excuse
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for amex can. spanish, that's okay. >> spanish is horrible. i've always been given a hard time about my spanish. and that's okay. every mexican in history has always given hit to their spanish. you should know spanish. >> that's what i leerpds. this has been an age old thing where everyone is trying to out chicano each other. and i shouldn't feel that bad about it. >> anthony: what's the expression for a bad chicano. >> bow chow. >> is there a literal translation. >> rotting. you've completely fake. lost all your culture so you should be hated. >> anthony: that's harsh. >> i know. >> anthony: when do you hear it? and going across the border, putting up the wall, scary? >> i think this is good. latinos need this to rally together. excite the world to havally lens land to come together. >> anthony: anyone that corrally
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all mexicans? >> like a spokesperson. >> anthony: yeah, like mexican reagan. >> the last one was caesar chavez that was years ago. >> anthony: i would totally vote for him. he looks good with his shirt off. donald trump can't say that. bill clinton can't say that. he's the bad es dude in the history of bad ass. look it up in the dictionary, bad ass, it's his trail. danny trail. born in echo park in l.a. he spent much of his early life in prison including a stay in san
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quenton where he managed to straighten up and came out as a drug counselor and this led to a storied career in film. danny trail was known and loved for iconic tough roles in roles such as heat, from dusk until dawn, and once upon a time in mexico. but he finally rose to the action hero leading man status he always deserved playing machete. char her who grew out of a fake trailer from fill brine house which soon became gore heavy franchise. if you haven't seen machete, it's follow up machete kills or soon to be released machete in space, it's like missing the citizen cane of violent family friendly fun.
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ka tino on ka huhn go boulevard, of course the ground opening is a few days away but since i'm in town i would advise him on the menu. and i had to be honest how good could it be. ke run a good restaurant? and why? so we are going to see tremendous tremendous -- trae tray os tacos? >> that would be awesome. >> anthony: this is awesome. and on ts menu some charred summer squash and sauted peppers and black mow lay and fat sacks and lots of healthy greens. why healthy? i mean such an obese problem in
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the united states, especially latino, we had to find a way to make it tasty but healthy. healthy food can taste good. >> anthony: create healthier lighter versions of mexican versions is not what i pektsed. and i sure ain't taking rude cracks about vegan tacos, not to this man, although to be fair he's the nicest guy in the world. here's something i discovered i'm completely shocked and surprised me so i have to ask you. are you a more acy fan by any fan? >> more acy. >> anthony: like this band it's a british rock band of the late '80s that is apparently hugely popular in the chicano community. so you have not been touched by this? >> i'll tell you something right now between you and me, i listen to no music that came after the
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1968. i'm like an old eaes guy, you know what i mean. >> anthony: your parents are in texas. but do you trace what part of mexico. >> monterey. my grandmother and grandfather were born in monterey. >> anthony: did you speak spanish at home? >> yeah, i spoke spanish until about nine or ten. you stop speaking spanish when you go to grammar school, especially in the 50s because they wouldn't let you, don't speak spanish, so you kind of forget. but then when you start going to juvenile hall and jail, you pick it up again, so the guards won't know what you are talking about. then y then. >> anthony: did you get into the 12 step while in prison? >> cinco de mayo 1968 that's where i made avow, i'm done. >> anthony: when you came out you became a drug counselor?
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>> i dedicated my life to help other people. everything good happening to me came as a result of helping someone else, everything. >> anthony: for example, you were called to a film set to counsel somebody and you bump into eddie bunker legendary exhibit con turned screen writer as well. >> i knew eddie in prison. you see, so when he saw me, what are you doing here, i'm working with this kid. he asked me are you still boxing? because i was a light weight every joint i'm in. i said i still train but i don't get in the face anymore. he said we need somebody to train one of the actors how to box. >> anthony: the movie was the ason run away train. he fought against the actor eric roberts who pay long with john
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voit. it was start of a golorious career and never looked back. >> i fought eric in movie. you be my friend. now, if you come out of the penitentiary and someone says be my friend, it's sort of a red flag. >> anthony: how many films since then? >> about 320 or something. >> anthony: you moved from there to serious bad guys to now action hero franchise. how do you stay nice in a business basically full of that? >> eddie bunker, first time when i started getting like a little recognition, he told me something, he said try to remember that the whole world can think you are a movie star but you can't. and i've watched movie stars. i hate them. nobody likes them. and you are like on a movie star and the movie star comes in,
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after he leaves this is how everybody acts. that guy is a -- i hate that guy. i don't want to be that guy. you know what i mean. >> anthony: one of the things i learned in television early on f you show up to like shoot and the people with camera and crew is say oh the talent is onset what they really mean is the -- is onset. when someone tells me you are the talent time to go back and look in the mirror. right. why accept it from your allergy pills? flonase sensimist relieves your worst symptoms, including nasal congestion, which most pills don't. it helps block six key inflammatory substances. most pills block one. flonase sensimist. most pills block one. introducing the all-new volkswagen jetta ♪ with available digital cockpit. join t-mobile, and get netflix included.
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♪ >> anthony: from time to time you'll find them here. when you do, you best play nice. gilbert melendez, nick diaz, and nate diaz, three of the greatest mixed marshall artists to ever fight in an octagon.
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gilbert holds distinction of being one of the few naa fighters to be ranked number one in the world in two weight classes. nate and his older brother nick are both vicious strikers and grapplers. they are about as tough as it gets in a professional setting or on the street. neither particularly likes to fight, they say, but should the situation call for it they'll, let's put it this way, they will. nick and nate grew up in stockton and still live there and train there. connor mcgregor mocked him from teaching them martial arts. in one of the greatest fights in ufc history nate diaz shocked the world but on very short notice he stepped in and
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submitted mcgregor in two rounds. >> nate diaz. >> anthony: he lost the second bout by decision but there will surely be a third hand no matter what happens nate diaz always brings it. sanchez, on south centinela. what do you eat growing up? when you were little kids what kind of food did you eat? what's lunch? >> macaroni and cheese and hot dogs. that was basically like top ramen. >> anthony: hot dogs and mac and cheese. rise and beans and some sort of protein with it. i'm not vegetarian but i learned a lot from them, though. >> i was pretty much vegan for years, really. >> anthony: even as a kid? >> like i stopped eating land animals food.
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i'm a vegetarian. i ate off and on but since i was about 18 years old. i wanted to get better weight vegetarian diet. i end up nice and light and get stronger. >> once he started fighting pro he started doing the same type of thing. >> anthony: when you eat in l.a. if you are going out for food, going out for asian? >> it's pretty convenient around here. i go to venus beach and cafe gratitude and that's a good place. >> anthony: what do you eat there? >> vegan, vegetarian all the way. >> anthony: i get off the plane. i go right to inand out burger and last thing i do when i'm in town is stop at an in and out burger. that stuff is like crack for me. i have to have it. so good. they serve shrimp, lots and lots of shrimp.
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the house special, or drunken shrimp sauted in butter and garlic over high heat, add cilantro and finish with tequila. so what was your first tight in school, what grade? >> first grade. >> anthony: no? >> yeah, first fight. one time i was in sixth grade and i went down to the baseball field, waited for foul balls to catch them and you get free soda or chips or something and i caught the ball and one of the baseball players was mad because came why did you get the ball? i said shut up i've been waiting all day for this ball. i was a little kid. trying to get in a fight with me. in my head, why are they going to make me fight this guy?
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>> anthony: street tacos are a not guilty at all pleasure for me. something of an obsession. they always make me happy. but mexican food has been redefining itself in significant ways for years. here and in mexico. across the city young extremely talented chefs are taking mexican traditions to the next level and beyond. maybe the most exciting new frontier of modern cooking. chef ray garcia nat i have angelino is one of those pioneers. located in the heart of downtown broken spanish higher end higher priced mexican restaurant than most are accustomed to. chef eddie ruiz and robin are childhood friends who opened the wonderful but short lived alta california gastro pub cori
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soorks on who put them on the map in l.a. dining scene. >> anthony: i absolutely believe the next big thing is it a reevaluation of mexican flavors and ingredients and are reevaluation of how much we should pay. people love it but their expectations are naturally cheap. and the fact is it's always going to be new arrivals from mexico unfortunately willing to sell you really good mexican food for really cheap but not the kind of deep flavors that you find or i found in my travels there. >> well, sometimes in the mexican world only thing that's passed down is not a home, it's not a necklace wharks it is a recipe passed down from generation to generation. it all comes from russ particular dishes our gand mothers cooked for us. >> anthony: do you have any responsibility to preserve and protect the traditional flavors of mexico or not?
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>> yeah, of course. everything that you see here in front of you is inspired by something that we had as a child. but how do we present that with our training and how do we present that with our experience that's going to give people value to want to pay more for it? >> i think los angeles is kind of a stage for that next level. and chef ray is doing a good job of that. he's presenting stuff like this and that's what's going to elevate people's mindset in terms of what you can do with this food. >> anthony: skin on pork, cured and assaulted, cooked for 36 hours, then deep fried, and served with elephant garlic mola and radish sprouts. it's a slow cooked lamb be with oyster mushrooms and csso. a sweet potato filled with pork.
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ears, tails, and snout. topped with a drizzle of a sauce. >> i have a present for you guys here. a predessert. i know it's your favorite eddie. we have this here so it's sort of like a predessert. my take on traditional and simple mexican dessert. like a butter and sugar is the basic. so that's where we have this and up the ante and then this on top of it. >> anthony: sweet. thank you. i'm loving this meal big time. >> thank you. >> it's the most nos tal gish dish i've had. nothing says my childhood like this dish right here. >> anthony: wow. i worked in french and italian restaurants my whole career. but i mean really if i think about it, mexican restaurant,
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and with other mexicans because majority of the cooks even working with me are from most countries. that's who picked me up when i fell down, showed me what to do with when i walked in and didn't know anything and nobody knew my name. >> that's the way our culture s we are so family oriented that's what matters to us. at the same time, i feel like our job as chefs is to bring in our unique latin american experience to dining, family, tradition, food, culture, and l.a. is the heart of that, it really s and hopefully that reason nates throughout the rest of the country. with only a kite, a house key and a wet hemp string, benjamin franklin captured lightening in a bottle.
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>> anthony: gang violence has been part of l.a. story for the better part of a century now. also part of the story, police corruption and brutality. former police officer alex salazar was a bad cop by his own admission, very bad. like a lot of once good police, the streets changed him. he saw a lot of ugliness. the lines became blurred. the job ground him down. and he crossed the line.
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repeatedly. >> to quote nish ee those who chase monsters has to be careful they don't become monster. i used to arrest the bad guys. i never thought i would become a bad guy myself. >> anthony: did you become a bad guy? >> i did, yes. >> anthony: how bad? >> i became very aggressive. beating people. losing control. and using excessive force when there really wasn't any need for me to do that. i mean i worked most infamous police station known called ram port. one good picture for denzil washington for the portrayal of this bad police officer. >> i'm the police. you just live here. >> anthony: was that an under statement? were there cops that bad? >> yes, there were. i was one of them. the problem was very systemic. we don't have very much that problem anymore. it does happen. >> anthony: nature of the job when you are asked every day to go in and look at people at
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their most desperate and ugly, that you become desensitized and maybe even turn into ha monster. >> just think about t every day they are looking at the worst of society. and maybe they have a partner that gets killed or shot. it's all very overwhelming. many turn to alcohol and drugs to medicate. and i'm not trying to be apologize for the police because they do need to be held accountable. but we need to help them. we really do. because they are out there and they are the wunones that are gg to show up at your home. >> anthony: mexican america, middle east l.a. victim of a crime. you call in the police expecting a sympathetic response? i mean, generally speaking, what do you think? >> i think most police officers show up being ready to help out. they certainly have to do their job. >> anthony: but what do you think the victim thinks?
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do you think they have high hopes? i believe my call is going to be handled the same fever as somebody calling from beverly hills? >> well, there are good officers that come in and help. there are also many who lose that empathetic feeling of looking at someone with brown skin or very dark skin and they say wow why am i helping out this person. this is a stupid mexican. and i saw that being projected upon these people who all they wanted was help. ♪
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>> anthony: elisa sol garcia grew up in boyle heights and is no stranger to the challenges facing the latino community. the boyle heights running club started as a safety-in-numbers project. the small group of community members started running the bridges of boyle heights, making their presence known and simply by being there, by being a presence, taking their streets back from the gangs and the criminals who too often are the default company in a one company neighborhood. ♪ >> anthony: tacos indiana street cart on 4th and clarence st. what are you guys having? >> elisa: i'm going to do asada. >> rolando cruz: you're going to do asada? >> anthony: frequented by elisa and fellow running club member rolie cruz. carne asada, the slow-grilled marinated beef classic served as a burrito with rice and beans, or simply on a tortilla as a taco.
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tacos lengua, beef tongue braised with garlic and onions. and tacos el pastor, stacked guajillo chile-rubbed pork shoulder sliced with your choice of toppings. cheap, yet supremely satisfying sweet taco trucks like this one has served the latino community of boyle heights well for years. but the neighborhood is changing. let's say diversifying. >> anthony: you know, first comes the coffee shops, a couple of smart, hip restaurants, hipsters arrive, rents go up. how do you stop that? >> elisa: well, that's what you explained in a nutshell is what has been going on throughout los angeles. the gentrification of downtown, it's spreading here.
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and in a neighborhood like this, gentrification, not to be dramatic, but the population of families that are homeless is growing. little by little, like, the block is disappearing whether it's deportation, whether it's gentrification, you know, it's barely now coming to the forefront, but for the people that live and work here every day, it's been the reality. there's a lot of struggles here that if you're going to be a part of this community, like, you have to recognize that struggle. >> rolando cruz: i think that the reality though is that l.a. is always changing, right? so, like, we are in the battle of l.a. who's going to win in this is yet to be determined, but the fight is still going to go on. ♪ you wouldn't accept an incomplete job from any one else. why accept it from your allergy pills? flonase sensimist relieves all your worst symptoms, including nasal congestion, which most pills don't. and all from a gentle mist you can barely feel. flonase sensimist. introducing the all-new volkswagen jetta [ music: "tin pan boy" by yungblud with best-in-class standard torque.
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for four lines at t-mobile ♪ >> anthony: there has been since the beginning a tradition of mexican rock 'n' roll with its own unique sound. ritchie valens, sam the sham and the pharaohs, cannibal and the headhunters, los cruzados and question mark and the mysterians. it should come as no surprise that rockabilly is enjoining a resurgence of sorts in the chicano community. ♪
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>> man with cowboy shirt: no one ever taught you to go, baby. someone else is always to blame, baby. chasing you is always a chase, so you played me now. >> anthony: there is a long and glorious tradition of chicano rock, garage and punk boiling away under and over the surface for years, and egregiously overlooked. ♪ but what is it with the morrissey thing? what is it about morrissey? the irish singer via england that sang melancholic pathos-filled ballads that were a backdrop for a million post-breakups during the '80s that so speaks to the chicano soul? i asked musicians and concert promoters oscar arguello and albert gambea. oscar thrives in the rockabilly world, while albert is all things punk. what's up with the morrissey thing? apparently in the chicano community morrissey is, like, huge. >> albert: it's a matter of the heart, man.
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>> anthony: why out of all the bands in the world did morrissey and the smiths resonate in this community? >> oscar: there was a convergence of music and people that did not connect to what was being said. he connected with his lyrics and i think everything was going so pop and so mainstream and he was the alternative to that, and i think there is a lyrical element to his words that resonated with the latino community. >> anthony: and people said that his lyrics, his songs, resonated with traditional mariachi in that sense that -- >> oscar: right. >> anthony: the songs are so much about finding something beautiful or even funny about getting relentlessly [ bleep ] over and having shit go wrong, i mean. [ laughter ] >> elisa: i think morrissey really speaks.
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you know, it's so odd, he's this white guy -- about displacement and this longing for a mythic home. you know, because when i go to mexico, i'm like a sore thumb there. you know, my spanish is horrible, the way i dress, the way i talk, but there's just something about it like morrissey really articulates that experience. in terms of an immigrant. he is irish. you know, he feels displaced. >> man wearing morrissey shirt: irish blood, english heart, this i'm made of. there is no one on earth i'm afraid of. >> albert: this is the thing about being a mexican in the states. you're never white enough for this country, and you're never brown enough for mexico. >> oscar: there is a big issue about that, pocho, and all that. but i know that we are californians, inherently, and i am los angeles. >> man wearing morrissey shirt: i've been dreaming of a time when to be english is not to be baneful. to be standing by the flag not
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feeling shameful, racist or partial. forever. ♪ >> anthony: i'm told you're a man who can help me. sometime in mid-19th century, 1850s, my great-great-great-grandfather jean bourdain emigrated to south america. he was reported to have died here. might have been a seeker of utopian dreams. you know, my aunt used to tell

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