♪ [ horns honking ] welcome. thanks for joining us. anyone who had the prirj of knowing anthony bourdain could remember a moment when a story he was telling took them someplace, whether it was a corner of the world, a place in the mind, or just a way of looking at something, seeing it through his eyes. it just did something to you. it made you want to look closer. it made you want to go there. which is why it's such a privilege for us and tony's team to be able to present starting right now the five final episodes that he shot on location as well as two special tribute episodes of parts unknown. the season spans the globe, big ben, texas, spain, indonesia, manhattan's lower east side, and

kenya. w. ka mall bell visited kenya. it was the beginning of a friendship. memories are bitter sweet for all of us at cnn, me as well. luckily we're left with these stories. it is beyond a privilege to present them to you. bon voyage and bon a pettit. >> maybe you know it. i hope you know it from such excellent shows as ""united shades of america"." host, writer, comedian w. kamau bell. i bumped into him in the cnn steam room following his emmy. come out, imagine a mash up of my show and yours, where would that be? he said, kenya. so, here we are, united shades unknown, or parts united,

scratch that, that doesn't sound good. america's shady est parts. no, that doesn't work either. unknown shades of -- ♪ ♪ ♪ found something good in this beautiful world, i felt the rain getting colder ♪ ♪ sha-la-la-la-la ♪ sha-la-la-la-la-la ♪ sha-la-la-la-la sloets ♪ ♪ ♪ >> first time on this koocouldn

nebt? >> yes. >> i'm going to be teasing you relentlessly. >> yes, yes, yes. >> african-american, there is a lot of talk about going back to this thing of the mother land. >> seriously radicalizing experience for african-american comics who come here before. >> yes. >> life changing. we shall see. >> i mean even walking through the streets, i have a feeling when i moved from chicago to oakland, you hear about oakland being this black city. and you get there and it's like there's black people here, but it's not like -- this is what i imagined oakland was going to be like. like this feels like this is black, you know? [ speaking foreign language ] >> nairobi means cool water in

massai. it's 6.5 million people living in the metro area. they grew up around a british railroad depot in the colonial era. ♪ ♪ a lovely sense of been here, done that. it's not a good look for me, but a curiosity tucked away in my brain to see how kamau handles the heat, the spice, the crowds, the overwhelming rush of a whole new world, because that's what it is first time. ♪ ♪ >> i'm already happy. >> i'm pretty happy because i've seen this scene so many times on your show. i finally get to be in this

scene. this is going to be good. >> i mean, you have a kenyan name. >> yes, my parents met in east palo alto, california. you know, this is like the late '60s, early '70s. post civil rights movement. that point where black people wanted a connection to the mother land. and in east palo alto there was this push towards naming it nairobi, nairobi, california. back then there were people who needed to be associated with an african culture that was winning. kenya was looked at as winning because they kicked out the brits. there was all this sort of like we need to start a whole new culture, government, started a community college in people's houses and basements and store fronts. i was the baby born to one of the first heads of council. there was a whole ceremony, lasted eight days. i picture it like the lion king. there's no pictures.

♪ ♪ >> talapia from the lake, fried with with cooked tomato and spices, served up right on the bone with ice cold tuscan. and yet, a proud kenyan name given your background, why so long? what took you so long, man? >> i was waiting for an invitation, the right invitation. >> was there any concern you would be disappointed? >> i think as a black american, i'm still wrestling with my african-american identity sometimes, and i'm still wondering am i doing right by this culture, does this culture feel like i'm doing right by them. that's why i don't want to walk around like, "i'm home." i think america has struggled with the identity, what does it mean to be black america. i felt it hard to claim this identity. it's exhausting. am i ready to start with a new one? i don't know yet. >> we'll see in a week when you head back. >> exactly.

>> shut runs deep here, meaning best scientists can tell, it all started for us in this neighborhood. tribes of hunter/gatherers, the portuguese merchants, the omani, all left their mark. but the british empire's hold from 1895 to 1964, is perhaps most deeply felt. the british system of education, governance, justice, along with to a certain extent its values were imposed on a native people and laid for better and worst much of the foundation for modern kenya. it did abolish slavery, for instance. it did build a modern infrastructure. it was also completely and fundamentally spl

fundamentally exploitative. kenya existed to make white people from far away rich. but in 1963, kenya won its independence, and elected its first president, jomo kenyata. it shook the last vestiges of colonial rule while hanging on to what worked. things are by most accounts going well. today's kenya is phenomenally beautiful. there is a growing middle class, a highly rated educational system, and an enthusiastic and multi lingual professional set. which is to say, this is decidedly not a "shithole." there are poor people here like there are poor people anywhere else. kenya is as distinct and different from other places in africa as texas is from mars

with its own problems and its own kinds of awesomeness. it's dynamic, it's changing, and it's incredible. kenya. by kenyans. for kenyans. but hurdles exist. bizarre, almost surreal ones in this case. matumba, for instance, also known as the clothing of dead white people. >> 70% of africans -- you can just make our own clothes and make them cheap enough and make the money and keep the money. there's also the issue of dignity. we have underwear coming in. yeah, poor people, like -- we wear secondhand underwear. >> there is a big market for that in japan. >> but like for other reasons. [ laughter ] >> the owner of chili mango, an

all kenyan footwear company. she is managing director at a creative consulting firm. as i understand it, there used to be 5,000 manufacturing jobs in kenya, textile manufacturing, and there's now 20,000. >> before the '80, we had a booming textile industry that could employ 500,000 people. but now in the '80s when the world bank introduced the free trade, we got all this secondhand clothes coming into the country. before that there were actually for charity. they were meant for the poor people. >> here's how it works. your pants or your t-shirt get old or boring. so being a good hearted soul, rather than throw them out you drop them in a charity box assuming they'll go to someone who needs them. but, no, in fact, that charity sells your pants and your t-shirt along with a whole lot of other clothes in bulk to a second hand clothing exporter, a middleman, part of a billion

dollar industry. exporters then sell your stuff by the container load to places like kenya. along the way, millions of dollars are creamed off in duties. 54 million bucks a year in the port of mombasa alone. the old clothes are then unpacked and sold in parkmarket throughout the country. this low-cost clothing option has absolutely crushed the domestic textile market. some countries in africa have said, wait a minute, this is not goods for our employment situation. >> yes. >> we're not going to let this stuff in any more. what happened then? >> so america came and they told us that they would have trade sanctions against us -- >> if you didn't take all these used clothes? >> exactly, yes. because of the free trade, yeah, exactly. >> that's extortion. >> yes, it's bullying -- >> usa, usa. [ laughter ] >> so you design and

manufacture? >> it's a kenyan brand. we make hood iz. >> do you make hood iz for giants? >> everyone -- >> in oakland where i'm from, hoodies are kind of a big deal. if i was able to go back with a kenyan-made hoodie, i'd get a connection going. >> as screwed up as it is, people love the availability of cheap clothes. and toy market is the place to go for what in new york city would be called vintage. the dense labyrinth of shops neatly organized by specialty. >> honey, i brought all the uggs back from kenya. there has to be something in your size. >> the challenge today is going to be finding footwear for kamau's decidedly nonkenyan feet. >> i need a half size up. >> had to come to the couldn't ne -- continent to find shoes that fit me.

these are 30-34s? i'll take these for sure. >> let's be clear. some rich annoying american person bought these and wore them twice. they're out of season. >> dirty harry's shirt is kind of cool. i'll take this for sure. >> now we're talking. >> black man in america wearing a king kong shirt. that's a great nark shirt. hey, kids. >> anyone want to buy some acid? >> this is just weird enough and simple enough -- >> that is pretty cool. >> i feel like -- where did you get that shirt? i got it in kenya. >> is there a solution here? a mix -- clearly it's good for some people. i mean, if i don't have a lot of money and i'd like a fresh pair of nikes, this is a good option. >> i don't think this business

is bad inherently. i feel like these two things seem like they could exist -- >> together. >> -- together, yeah. in the states you can buy clothes that are made in the united states and you can also go to a thrift shop. >> that's true. >> i see those people who are running those stalls who are making a living and i'm not trying to take their living away, but also, yes, those clothes should be taxed. maybe they should be a little more expensive. >> is there a realistic hope the textile industry will come back? >> there is, to me there is. now we have more of the middle class buying kenyan made stuff. people work. they want to buy stuff that's ethically produced, exactly. >> supporting the community. >> exactly. you know china and south korea, they didn't leave poverty or stop importing secondhand clothes. they did it by building all the factories, being able to export the stuff that they're producing, so it has to happen the same way with us. ♪ ♪

but there's a place that doesn't come with that compromise. a place designed to help you be your best. welcome to westin. where you're given a choice not just to get up ♪ but to rise. ♪

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time ♪ ♪ >> everybody is a superhero. in nairobi's largest neighborhood, they make their own. part of a project run by the massai art collective. intended to empower kids who otherwise don't have much. >> in swahili, it says -- art of the collection of the community. >> what we did is do make art, we use it as a tool. >> many stories have been told. >> negative stories. >> negative stories. many organizations come here. they shoot videos talking about aids, drugs, you know, negative things about kabira. >> you have a lot of documentary crews that come through here, film crews that come through here. i have a question.

are we as-holes? i feel like a white guy right now. kan bera is massive. around 172,000 people live here. a sprawling community of homes and businesses competing for an edge. in houses, a great part of nairobi's labor force, meaning no ca bera, the city grinds to a halt. >> here as a person named kamau, i'm not unique. >> yeah, very common. >> you're common. >> a common name here. >> i waited all my life to be common. >> welcome home. i'll go and tell our forefathers you are here. >> thank you. [ laughter ] >> mamito unas is a comedian. simon a musician. and jeff once voted kenya's funnyest person are all using art to tell a new story about

kadera. >> it is something for the challenge that we're facing in this life, like me, you know, me, i've been brought up by a single parent. i used to engage in criminal activities. coming across my fellow friends who have been passing through such kind of messes, came up with an organization, creative arts. so to try to teach this, our fellow young people, to make them avoid getting into the traps that are set for us. >> ka bera is also ground zero for what's called around here the white savior complex, a focal point for the more than 12,000 mostly well-meaning ex-pat aid workers who live in kenya. it's a dynamic that can be counterproductive. the salary and employment discrepancies can cause a ripple effect of problems for native kenyans. >> yeah, man. >> many cannotians are workikena

grassroots level to take control of their future. artists working in a neighborhood to support and develop local talent. what is it like to be a comedian in kenya? how does that look? >> it is so hard to make people laugh in kenya. imagine these are people who have not paid their rent. these are people who have gone without food for some days. >> so they come in angry, angry and hungry. >> yeah. >> you should take this camera when i was small. >> that's reason why when we go on stage and make people laugh, it is a plus. we say, wow, man. ♪ ♪ >> i love to make people happy because there are always ups and downs in life.

we always laugh. >> when people see me performing and other people, if mamito is just performing, i don't need to go and drop somewhere to make me a staff. i can use whatever i have because i think even in kabita, we have some things we can use. ♪ ♪ >> by regional stand ards, kenya, nairobi, anyway, is particularly tolerant. kenya has become a sanctuary of sorts for a number of diverse ethnic, political and social groups. one such group with a steadily growing nucleus is the lgbt community. not too long ago a nearly unthinkable development. so you shall never know this pain or awkwardness, you know, in the states -- so, what's it

like being black in america? now you share my pain. what's it like being gay in kenya? malcolm and awrangango are revolutionary gay art collective. he is a writer and journalist. >> so how free can you be? are there places in kenya where you can walk around holding hands with your partner? >> you can try, you know. >> other places you can go where it's not an experiment? >> no. i think at all points it is an experiment. >> so where is the threat from? where is it most dangerous? >> i think the violence is like from homophobes. all of it is based around the desire of the penis. if you see two women kiss, it's hot because you think you can get in there. so like -- yeah.

>> oh, there's just one penis. >> yeah, they need me to help them out with a dick. but -- and the violence like against lesbians always comes in the part where men realize, oh, they're not attracted to me. >> i've always had this theory that a lot of the issues and discrimination that we face is based on our attitude towards women. and so, you know, straight men will then come and comp a gay man, you're not a man, you're a woman, we do not respect women. why would you want to be like this? >> much of the news concerning gay rights on this continent continues to be pretty grim. it should be pointed out that even being gay is still illegal here. but in february of 2018, the kenyan national gay and lesbian rights commission filed suit to strike down sections of the laws, arguing, well, the

obvious. that they violate basic human rights. what happens next? well, a lot of people are holding their breath. >> the nefact we were in court, people wearing bracelets with rainbow colors, sweating gay -- we queered court that day. we queered court. >> if the laws are overturned what are the implications? >> if we win this case, i'm happy and scared at the same time. >> why scared? >> backlash, obviously. it will happen, there will be people who -- there will be people who will be attacked. we move to an extreme end of freedom and there will be hate. i mean, i want it to happen so bad. can we have pride on the streets of nairobi? >> when you say pride on the streets -- i lived in san francisco for a long time. every year there is a gay pride parade. you're saying if you have that

then you know there's been real change? >> if it happens for us it will be inclusion for every other minority in this country. hero: hey...yeah, that's what i was thinking. sofia: she kept going on and on and on. anyway i can't believe what she sai- (gets cut-off) ♪ toy by young fathers ♪ ♪ i'm chasing shadows in the gallows collecting what was stolen from me ♪ ♪ lease the 2018 rx 350 for $439 advana month for 36 months. experience amazing at your lexus dealer.

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♪ boxing is like, for example, the first boxing lesson is stance, and the importance of stance is stability. you need the stability. then you have to protect yourself. protecting yourself, it means protection from many things. pi peer pressure, all these things that can wear you down. and then there is a jab. jab keeps the person at bay, and an open, hoping that you can hit hard. >> he is a rather remarkable man. a former professional fighter who established box girls to train specifically female boxers. is there a moment in the fight that you're pretty sure you're going to win?

>> i told them i already own it, the gym. >> got to talk trash. got to talk that ali. the awesome sarah is a professional who trains under him and also teaches in the program. >> our vision is to create opportunities for girls and opportunities for other girls. >> all small girls, young women, women, being able to kick at a man if they have to. >> exactly. >> what was your journey, why did you first start training? did you want to become a professional from the beginning, or did you make that decision after awhile? >> okay. for revenge actually. >> revenge? >> yes, it was revenge because one day -- >> but she didn't tell me that.

[ laughter ] >> you would have talked to her first. >> yeah, i was going to work in the morning. and i was coming back home. a man just slapped me and ran away. that's when i felt i had the idea if i had the boxing skills, defense skills, i could at least see where it was coming from and defend myself. >> sarah fought russian boxer in 2015 winning the ubo inter continental lightweight division title, kenya's first international boxing title. she took time off to have children and is back in training

for a return to the ring. >> did you ever get your revenge? >> i never get my revenge. i realize if you are a trained boxer, you have discipline most of the time. >> most of the time. [ laughter ] >> swahili culture is a deep part of kenyan cuisine, born of arabic and indian culture. this meal is a clear example of that mix. this is a bread made with cardamom. an east african spin itch frash. beans with onion ands coconut milk. chicken with masala, turmeric and eggs. fantastic, beautiful. man, honestly, this is really

good. >> how does it work at your gym? do people pay to train? is there a monthly fee or how do they -- >> attend for free. >> really? >> just because you want to help? >> yeah. there is nothing to charge because there is nothing they can give, so we give what we have. and because they have the skills through the training, some get employment, some become professional fighters, they find their ways. >> anthony: whatever bus you're

taking, it ain't like this. crosstown traffic just got a little bit wilder and more fun if you're riding the friendly skies of a matatu. matatus are privately owned and operated bus lines, running regular routes. fiercely competitive. to the point that owners starting making modifications and an ever-changing range of themes, designed to attract the fickle commuter. >> anthony: oh, yeah. all right, let's do it, man. >> anthony: culminating in buses like this -- mad max -- a rolling, post-apocalyptic, seizure-inducing party bus. just the thing you need after a hard day's work. >> kamau: i'm not trying to dance. it's making me dance. i don't actually want to dance.

>> anthony: so what do people want in a mutatu? what do they have to have? >> brian: first of all, you need to have good music. the exterior art has to be popping. >> anthony: wide-screen tvs. >> brian: yeah, tvs, wi-fi, air fresheners. >> anthony: beers, and goat's head soup. a global classic, slow-cooked well, goat's head. my companion, mr. bell,

unaccustomed as he is to the ways of africa, is new to this dish. and i don't want to sound all colonel mustard, but i eat this [ bleep ] for breakfast by now. you know what i mean? >> kamau: i think the words goat head soup, and i think, "oh, it'll be meat from the goat's head in a soup." >> anthony: oh no, it's a goat head, dude. >> kamau: that explains things, as we see. a full-on head of a goat. >> anthony: brian wanyama obhiando is a blogger, photographer and chronicler of the matatu phenomenon. lucia alessandra murotto is a legendary conductor. cathrine kambun is the owner of mad max. >> anthony: honored guest.

>> kamau: honored guest. is this eye i'm eating right here? >> anthony: yup. salt. >> anthony: i generously reserve the best and most tender bits for my friend, as one does. i fear, however, that he was less than enthusiastic, initially, anyway. wait till he tries the brain. he's gonna love it. >> kamau: that's my first eye. >> anthony: yeah? it's all right. >> kamau: i knew i'd end up doing something like that with you. >> anthony: so you own the business? >> cathy: yeah. >> anthony: and how long have you been in the business? >> cathy: like five years. >> anthony: we want to get into the mutatu business. in new york. >> kamau: yes. >> anthony: thinking about some improvements. we need a hot tub. >> kamau: yeah, hot tub. >> anthony: what's your theme? i already picked mine out. >> kamau: see, i'm all about counter-programming, a reese witherspoon mutatu. a tribute to all the movies of reese witherspoon. i'm all about thinking outside

the box. >> anthony: i'm thinking wolf blitzer "the situation room." "the situation room" mutatu. this could reinvigorate public transportation as we know it. >> kamau: especially in new york and l.a., people don't like the bus. and what does it mean to be a conductor? they don't just let anybody be the conductor. >> lucia: in this job you need to have a lot of patience. just somebody who's had a bad day, they just don't want to pay. if you don't have patience you just find yourself on top of the moon. so when you carry people you need to show them that it's full of energy. >> brian: they need to know how to get the people inside the mutatu. >> kamau: so the whistle just gets everybody -- >> lucia: yeah. >> kamau: jumped up and excited. >> anthony: like i said, this is a competitive business. the mutatu can cost up to $60,000 to buy and build out. rides are only 60 cents. so to get the money back, you better get the customers in and out and coming back for 100,000 rides before you break even. >> kamau: so can you tell me,

what's it like growing up as an italian-kenyan? i was trying not to say white. in america, white people get upset when you call them white. so i was trying to -- >> lucia: um, the challenges i had was a kid was my hair. everyone wanted to touch my hair. one thing i love about this job is that i meet all types of people. and i don't look down on them and they don't look down on me. that's the best part of it. >> anthony: just wait until new york city sees kamau and my joint venture -- the wolf blitzer. ♪

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>> anthony: a few hours' drive from nairobi, it's another world. the africa of dreams, of films, the natural world. but a world under constant threat. lewa wildlife conservancy seeks to address the problem of keeping all this alive and safe without excluding or marginalizing the people who've lived here for centuries. that is a delicate balance. man and nature. how to responsibly care for one without negatively impacting the other in a world of ever-decreasing resources. >> karmusha: this is dave, guys.

look at this guy here. this is dave the giraffe. he's a residential giraffe. hi, dave. >> anthony: our guide is karmushu kiama. he grew up in a village near here and has a deep knowledge of the wildlife of lewa. >> anthony: are those termite mounds? >> karmusha: termite mounds, yup. >> kamau: that's filled with termites? >> karmusha: that's filled with termites. >> kamau: that's horrible. >> anthony: a little useless trivia, in a fire fight, you hide behind one of those it will provide useful coverage. >> kamau: this is my first safari, that's a very specific safari with an expert, and with you with useless information, this is a -- i paid extra for this. this is significantly better than the zoo, i guess that goes without saying. >> anthony: yeah. >> kamau: for some reason, i don't know if it's just me, but i had a negative connotation of safaris. >> anthony: they used to shoot animals in safaris. there's our kind of safari and then there's the -- you know, trump jr. safari.

>> kamau: yeah, i think i was afraid every time i said the word that people were just like, "what are you doing?" like -- >> anthony: no, this is -- this is a good kind of safari. >> kamau: okay. >> anthony: good for the world. >> kamau: okay, good. >> karmusha: 100% good for the world. >> kamau: good for the world. i think we need another word or something. are there elephants out here right now? >> karmusha: so we have elephants, yeah. >> anthony: have you ever ridden on top of an elephant? >> kamau: no. >> anthony: i have done that. and you know, once again, a little interesting little factoid. >> kamau: here we go. >> anthony: when you're sitting on top of an elephant, the sensation, the tactile quality is like you're sitting on top of a giant scrotum. >> kamau: wow, you're really selling it. anthony's useless safari facts. >> karmusha: see an elephant? >> anthony: where? >> karmusha: right there.

>> kamau: even if you see them in a zoo closer, they're behind bars that it just doesn't feel connected. but i feel like we're right here. >> anthony: yeah, he's actually going someplace. >> kamau: yeah, he's not just walking in a circle. he's actually got stuff to do. >> anthony: the fact of the matter is, these magnificent animals would most likely be gone without the intervention of man. people pay a lot of money to come see these animals. without that money, the overwhelming likelihood is that they would have been wiped out long ago. particularly this one -- >> anthony: whoa, what's that? >> karmusha: that's a rhino. our first rhino. >> kamau: whoa, whoa. wow. >> anthony: the conservancy was

set up specifically to protect these guys. initially a cattle ranch owned and operated by the craig family, the kenyan government, after finally acknowledging that the rhinoceros was on the verge of extinction, asked the family to set aside some of their property to bring all surviving rhinos here to recover and hopefully restore their numbers. from only 15 animals a few years back, there are over 150 of them today. poaching is, of course, an ever-present danger to both the animals at lewa and the people who look after them. particularly the rhinoceros, whose horn is believed by wealthy chinese buyers to be a strong medicine with virility-enhancing powers. the reality, that the substance that makes up a rhino horn is the same as the human fingernail, does not deter a

market that will pay tens of thousands of dollars for a single horn. with 62,000 acres to cover, lewa's anti-poaching program is necessarily aggressive, inclusive, and cutting edge, relying on local trackers, advanced tracking technologies, and perhaps most importantly, good community outreach and intelligence gathering. if the local people are not on your side, you are at a serious disadvantage. >> karmusha: so that's a white rhino. >> kamau: it's a white rhino? >> karmusha: that is a white rhino. >> kamau: so how do -- >> karmusha: it's nothing to do with the coloration.

white was an african name -- "whit" -- which means "wide-mouth." and whoever came to write about them put an "e" there. then it became "white." >> kamau: okay, because you said white rhino, and i was like -- >> karmusha: yeah, it's not white. >> kamau: i think his dad might be black. >> anthony: does it look like you wanted it to look? or expected it to look? >> kamau: i mean, uh, no. i mean, i guess i don't know, so many images. i mean, i grew up as a kid, you know, my first images of africa were "tarzan." so i don't think i knew what kenya africa was. you know? i think the expanse of it is not something i could be prepared for. like the -- it takes over the entire horizon. >> anthony: what a [ bleep ] hole, right? >> kamau: what a [ bleep ] hole. i mean, the other thing i'm

aware of too is, on this trip, is still that thing of not wanting to feel like i have come home, you know? and yeah, there is a sense that there is this diasporic connection, even though i did not come from kenya, you know? it's nice to have that connection. even if the frame that that connection was built through was colonialism. even though that's not -- it's the good part of colonialism. it brings people together. >> anthony: i don't know. it should kind of me compulsory viewing for -- if you ever run for president, this should be compulsory viewing. >> kamau: at the very least, i do think that a lot of perspectives will be opened up, a lot of minds will be changed. you know, this is on a very personal note, like the idea that i'm sitting here with you doing this now, knowing where my life and career have come, it's

pretty cool. >> anthony: that's about as meta as it gets. >> kamau: yeah, no, it's just like every now and again i have this like, "whose life is this?" >> anthony: i will tell you, i got 17 [ bleep ] years and i -- actually, as soon as the cameras turn off, um, and like the crew will be sitting around having a cocktail, i'll [ bleep ] pinch myself. i cannot [ bleep ] believe that i get to do this. see this, ever. or that i ever would because, what, 44 years old dunking fries i knew with absolute certainty that i would never, ever see rome, much less this. [ music: "bygones" by oliver ]

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>> tom: looking at some of our cultures here, you know, from where we came from, traditionally, we've had some sort of conservation culture, which sort of got eroded. it's been with us, it's been with our forefathers. we just lost it somewhere, recently. and we're trying to get it back. >> anthony: when you have traditional pastoral communities under intense and immediate pressure, trying to convince them that wildlife, which can, as in the case of one rhino or

elephant, bring in life-changing amounts of money, it is a hard thing to convince them that it is in their long-term interest to let them live -- particularly when it was often wealthy white outsiders doing the asking. >> mike: if you are very successful in managing this ex-cattle ranch as a conservancy, but wildlife across kenya as a whole had no future, then to all intents and purposes you've just established a zoo. a large zoo. and so what lewa's ethos has always been is to just show kenyans that actual wildlife can have value and benefit. >> anthony: mike watson is the ceo of the lewa conservancy. tom lalampa leads the northern rangeland trust. faith riunga is the head of education at lewa. and wanjinku kinuthia is head of communication. >> anthony: you're responsible for a larger picture, involving a huge challenge. first, the immediate needs of a lot of people. but also, potential conflicts with the traditional way of life. how have you been able to do

what you've been able to do? >> tom: i was born in and brought up in a very strong pastoral background. we were really anti-anything about conservation. really anti, because one we had the perception that this is a government thing, this is about grabbing our land -- >> kamau: it probably doesn't help that a lot of that land is owned by white people, right? somebody else is owning our land. >> tom: initially. >> kamau: okay. >> tom: there's also a perception that conservations being driven by the white, and so it's not about the communities, it's not about us. it's about them. but you know, gradually, um, we came to realize that the approach that was being introduced was a community approach. >> faith: going back 13 years back, there was one girl who made it to high school. and she's speaking english, she's dressing up, and the other girls are like, "you know what? i'd like to be her." and the more, and more, and more

they've seen, go through high school, graduate, slowly by slowly they get to see the value themselves. education works very well. >> kamau: are there efforts for people in the community who couldn't afford to come in here to sort of see what's going on in here so they can have the -- >> wanjiku: yeah, we have a conservation education program here, with over 3,500 school children come on to lewa, free of charge, go around, get to see wildlife, because unless you can afford to go to national parks or to places like lewa, then you definitely wouldn't have the opportunity interact with wildlife. >> kamau: so we're headed towards the lions? is that what we're doing right now? >> karmusha: so now you can see at the peak, you can just see something sticking out. that's a lion sitting. >> anthony: oh, i see. right next to the little tree. >> kamau: whoa. >> anthony: oh, there's a bunch of them. >> karmusha: yeah, yeah. if we're lucky, they might come

down the hill. >> kamau: that's lucky? we define lucky in different ways. >> karmusha: they seem to be having their eyes on something. he's going to go left so we have a good position. >> kamau: hey, how you doing lion? so the lion is about 30 feet from us or so? just --

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>> anthony: just outside the borders of lewa conservancy is a

massai village known as the il ngwesi community range. they are working with lewa to not only embrace conservation but also to maintain their way of life. >> kip: in maasai traditional way, we got our diets, which is meat, blood and milk. at least once in a while, they do blood tapping. >> anthony: to the maasai, the cow is a sacred animal. giver of all things. unlike the west, meat is not the primary interest. here, cattle are sustainable, a long-term asset, for milk, for cheese, and on special occasions, blood. straight from the tap. >> anthony: okay, here we go. all right, well done. >> anthony: annoying as hell for

the cow, no doubt, but decidedly not fatal. it might, however, prove fatal for my colleague kamau, who unlike me, has never experienced this local beverage. a warm jet of arterial blood into the gourd, add some thick, clotting milk, also from cow. shake, and down the hatch. >> kip: would you like to have a sip? >> anthony: yes, sure. just straight from here? >> kip: yeah. >> anthony: here we go. oh, you're going to like it. it's good. so delicious. >> anthony: and keep in mind the whole village is watching. and you are on tv. >> kamau: okay. i'm home. >> anthony: makes you strong. >> kamau: yeah. >> anthony: well done. >> kamau: thank you, thank you.

>> anthony: working with the local maasai community is both an absolute necessity, and the right thing to do. to displace and forever disrupt the people who've lived here forever, in favor of animals that wealthy white people want to take pictures of would be hideous and unconscionable. this is happening elsewhere on the continent, but the people at