>> announcer: the warrior bhima is tricked into a fool's errand. he seeks his parents in heaven. they are not there. instead, he finds them in hell. he offers his parents the elixir of life. yet they refuse.

they accept the fruits of their karma. this being their final test, bhima's parents ascend to heaven. this story teaches us that heaven and hell are allegories, not truths. life is cyclical, and so is death. ♪ m i took a walk through this beautiful world ♪ ♪ felt the cool rain on my shoulder ♪ ♪ found something good in this beautiful world ♪ ♪ i felt the rain getting colder ♪ ♪ sha, la, la, la, la, la,

♪ sha, la, la, la, la, la, ♪ sha, la, la, la, la, la, ♪ sha, la, la, la, la ♪ ♪ [ speaking foreign language ] >> sujiwo: big bang. >> desi: so in science there's a big bang. [ speaking foreign language ] >> desi: because when the world -- when the universe was created, the universe is like an egg. >> sujiwo: egg. >> desi: that broke. >> sujiwo: yes. >> desi: okay, from the shell -- >> sujiwo: yes! >> desi: -- is this fellow here, he's called togog. >> sujiwo: yes. >> desi from the yellow, the yolk, the teacher. >> sujiwo: yes. >> desi: teacher. >> sujiwo : and then the -- >> desi: and the whites of the egg is semar.

[ speaking foreign language ] >> desi: semar -- >> sujiwo: yes. >> desi: -- is to accompany the good. so this is to accompany the bad, the demon. this is to accompany the good. >> sujiwo: so, the philosophy is: without this, there is no this. without this, there is no this. >> desi: there is no right without wrong, there is no dark without light, but each interconnects. that's the main philosophy. the existence comes from the same egg. ♪ ♪ >> announcer: for a thousand years, the wayang, or shadow play, has been entertainment for both mortals and the gods.

in the shadow world, everything has its opposites. at work within every man are forces both divine and animalistic. the philosophy of the shadow play is to strive for balance. you cannot kill the demonic animal urges within. you must harness them, yet not be controlled by them. ♪ shadows that manifest on screen are more than mere relief; as they come alive, timeless tales interspersed with subversive stories, bring the world of gods, monsters and heroes into sync with current social commentary. ♪

>> anthony: indonesia is, correct me if i'm wrong, it's the 4th largest country in the world? >> desi: the 4th largest, but we are the 3rd largest democracy. 17,000 islands, the majority of the population, 60% live on java. >> anthony: and how many people in jakarta? >> desi: greater jakarta is around 25 million. >> anthony: 25 million. >> desi: 25, that's the greater area. ♪ >> anthony: what should the rest of the world know about the 4th largest country in the world? that they don't know. because, let's face it, i think if you ask most people that are going to watch this show, "tell me something about indonesia?", you'll get a total blank. >> desi: indonesia, we are very, very diverse. because even before islam came, the locals, they have their own traditions, they have their own cultures. the tolerance.

>> sujiwo: the tolerance, the etiquette of tolerance, religious tolerance, has dropped in our country. >> antony: the level of tolerance is declining? >> sujiwo: yes. but, in the food, almost every single food from this area, goes to another area. >> desi: basically, food is a great unifier. you see -- >> anthony: right, so you may speak poorly of another region, "oh, they're terrible people over there, but their food is good." >> desi: yup. they say that if you really want to know and try every single dish in indonesia, you have to live here for 40 years. >> anthony: 40 years? >> desi: you need to stay here for a long time because every single area has its own specialty. ♪ padang food, this is from west sumatra. you talk about fast food, this

is the fastest food. this was way before this genre of fast food exists in the world. as you sit down, they come out with all the dishes, and the concept is you choose what you want to eat, and you only pay for what you want to eat. [ speaking foreign language ] >> desi: here is lungs, fried lungs. >> anthony: fried lungs. >> desi: fried lungs. this is an intestine goulash. and this is basically the skin. >> anthony: deep fried, fatted skin. yeah, i like that. >> desi: this is rendang. we're very proud of rendang. and what makes padang food very special is the spice. >> anthony: yes. >> desi: the spice, and the chili. >> anthony: so good. >> sujiwo: you like rendang? >> anthony: i do.

i could eat that all day. so, i wanted to ask the traditional indonesian shadow play: how does one learn? how did you learn your art? [ speaking foreign language ] >> desi: yes, it's all passed on from generation to generation. >> anthony: so your father did this as well? and as i understand it, traditionally, the puppet master was allowed a certain latitude to tease, provoke, or openly mock the powerful. how far can you go? >> desi: it's a bit like in the court jester. where the court jesters are expected, you know, to make people up, but at the same time it's an opportunity, also, to criticize without getting punished for it. but at the same time, there's a philosophical level to it. to make the people aware of certain dangers. >> sujiwo: aware -- aware that -- blend. blend. >> desi: to make the people aware that truth and wrong doing, it's actually not black

and white. they interconnect. >> sujiwo: from the very beginning of the universe is dark. darkness. okay? the universe can see lightning by knowledge, by science. but, unfortunately science makes the shadow. it is the paradox. without light, you can't see anything. by lighting, meaning knowledge, the science, and the conscience. consciousness. you can see everything. you can see -- but everything makes shadows. ♪ >> announcer: watch the shadows, not the puppets, the right in constant struggle with the left. forces of light and darkness in an endless fight for supremacy, neither prevailing.

what is good? what is evil? who is the hero? who is the villain? what is up or down, black or white? what is right or wrong? in shadow play, no such final conclusion exists. ♪ ♪ let's go, tablet down. ♪

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♪ ♪ >> anthony: i think we have to wait for the music. one moment. >> baskara: yeah, yeah, yeah. ♪ hey, a lot of foreigners, a lot of money. >> anthony: i think we're paying them not to play music. [ laughter ] >> baskara: yeah, right, right. >> anthony: so, you teach here. you were educated in the states? >> baskara: yes. yeah, i got my second fulbright when i was teaching as a scholar in residence at the university of california. >> anthony: and your subject was

the nixon years during that period? >> baskara: yeah, after world war ii. >> anthony: you were also a man of the cloth, a man of faith, so the right man to talk to. we've been largely advised that we will make people uncomfortable if even we even discuss the year 1965. >> baskara: the year of living dangerously. >> anthony: the year of living dangerously. >> baskara: yeah. what happened was basically the communists were accused of launching a coup against the government, and because of that there was kind of justification for killing people who were suspected of being communists. >> anthony: and who were they? >> baskara: they're just villagers. or people who, in a very vain way associated or connected with the indonesian communist party. >> anthony: right. >> reporter: indonesia boasts one of the world's most bizarre leaders. three weeks ago the communists staged a coup. but it was sparred and the army struck back. >> reporter: indonesia's revolution is still fiercely on the boil. as the systematic roundup of communists goes on. >> reporter: with its leaders either captured or killed, the communist force collapsed. >> reporter: the army led a hunt for party officials, slaughtering the largest communist party outside the iron curtain. >> reporter: general suharto has taken advantage of the passion stirred to try and swing public opinion hard against their rivals.

the army now control our news and information. ♪ >> baskara: the actual number who were killed were between half a million to one million. and many more were imprisoned, tortured, and things like that, so -- >> anthony: is it in the interests of indonesians to be fully aware of what happened in '65? has indonesia as a country reconciled itself to those events? >> baskara: is there eagerness to know, yes. there is. there are many people, at the same time there was also fear. so many people they kept silent to avoid their family members being implicated. so yes, there is a lot of eagerness, but at the same time there are a lot of fear. >> anthony: yeah.

>> baskara: and so the real political situation is -- >> anthony: more complicated. >> baskara: yeah. more complicated. ♪ ♪ >> anthony: what about everyday life thrills you here? you wake up in the morning, walk outside. >> tom: well, you could not meet nicer people, tony. i mean everyone treats everyone else with respect and kindness, it's ingrained in the culture here. >> ed: you just still see

certain things here that are just gone in other countries. you know, you still have got people putting sauté on the street. you've got people wheeling around sort of wooden carts that are gone elsewhere. at the same time, you've got 60 million people with smartphones, all on social media, and, you know, that's helping out massive opportunities. if you're a journalist here now, it's just a privilege. ♪ anthony: yeah. so is this the unofficial foreign correspondents club? >> joe: it is. >> ed: very much so. >> joe: indeed. yeah. anthony: how long have you been living here? >> joe: most of 18 years. >> anthony: how long have you been living here? >> tom: after two stints, i'm about 6 years. >> joe: same with -- >> ed: same. two stints. >> anthony: so how are things going? i mean, this is a democracy now, yes? >> ed: oh, it is. >> joe: i've always called it a microcosm of all the good and bad in the world. 'cause indonesia has everything. democracy, it has pollution, it has environmental degradation, it's got human rights abuses. there's a lot of problems here, but one of the great things

going on is these elections are free and fair, and everybody knows it. >> anthony: a popular president. relative peace in the land. free speech? >> joe: oh, absolutely. >> anthony: but, there are two subjects that there is a real reluctance to talk about and reconcile. and it's kind of weird the years 1965 and 1975, there isn't much appetite to look at that. why? >> tom: for reputational reasons as much as anything, but also potentially legal reasons as well. so the two main perpetrators of the massacre were the military, and the mass islamic groups. groups who are moderate these days, but at that time, and with that hysteria, they were involved in sort of this brutal pogrom. this was sort of hand to hand, slitting throats, garroting people, burying them in mass graves.

very nasty, nasty stuff. and then the second reason is there was an intensive campaign of propaganda which portrayed this massacre as an honorable attempt by suharto to put down a communist coup. >> anthony: is it even useful for indonesians to look at that extraordinarily painful, awful period of time? >> tom: we're journalists, right? you know, you've gotta believe -- allowing these stories to be told, you know, is going to be to the good. >> anthony: you know, i don't know. i want to believe that, i really do. i do believe it. but certainly, the west doesn't much want to talk about it. we were -- we were -- >> joe: culpable. >> anthony: but yes, we were in deep. but henry kissinger walks into a bar, it sounds like a joke. henry kissinger and a penguin walk into a bar. i'm not asking what you'd do, but would it displease you if i

walked over and punched henry kissinger in the face? would you find that entertaining? >> joe: i would. >> anthony: would you have a wee small bit of pleasure even? would you feel that justice is in some small way served? >> joe: you hate henry kissinger. >> >> anthony: i hate him. because in my travels, i stumble across his good works everywhere i go. >> joe: right. let's do this. >> anthony: a rabbit punch. [ laughter ] >> joe: no, kidney punch. >> tom: cheers, guys. ♪ >> announcer: java is indonesia's seat of power, but this home to millions is just one of seemingly countless islands across the archipelago. bali endures as an island of legends, of magic and spirits where ancient animist traditions blend with hindu and buddhist beliefs. ceremonies and offerings are an attempt to bring harmony between the upper world of the gods, and

the lower world of the demons. with man balanced in between. ♪ who is the hero? who is the villain? who decides what is right or wrong? bali is as much an island of the gods as it is the demons.

♪ ♪ >> anthony: unst-unst-unst. i hate daft punk. [ cheering ] ♪ >> anthony: do you have a shot of the people getting massages by the pool while eating? this is an emmy winning shot, dude. it's happening right over there. ♪

so this too is bali i guess. or it is now. thank you, jimmy buffett for taking a big dump on the world. another wagyu slider, my good man. yes, thank you. by weight, how much human waste is generated by your average person on vacation? look around you. do the math. i want a water sample. i'm telling you, the fecal coliform count is going to be interesting. i'm sure there's a metaphor here. [ laughter ]

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♪ ♪ >> anthony: people who see "eat pray love", who are inspired to come to bali, and do yoga, they have a romantic notion. they want to improve their lives in a physical and spiritual way.

they would like to have an experience that they can remember. you mention bali and people think paradise. i mean, of course. >> kadek: of course. ♪ ♪ ♪

>> anthony: oh, wow. >> kadek: oh, here they come -- >> anthony: oh yeah, i remember this dish. i love it of course. >> tom: if we could just talk really quickly about the food? very quickly? >> anthony: i get it in vo because i've had it before. we don't need to talk about this food because i know it very, very well. i will speak incredibly knowledgably about it in voice over. trust me. >> kadek: you've been here before, right? >> >> anthony: i have been here. i think 11 years ago. and it was a very different looking place, even then 11 years ago. >> kadek: 11 years is still long. >> anthony: yes. how did you get into the yoga business? did you anticipate it would become so big or did it start small? >> kadek: not really, honestly. it was when the "eat pray love" was filming on the island. ♪ >> anthony: so tell me how many customers you do in a day? >> kadek: 300-400 people. >> anthony: that's a big increase. >> kadek: it's really huge because you see the traffic, how

crazy it is. >> anthony: it is crazy. >> kadek: dealing with the traffic. >> anthony: i mean it's worse than manhattan. >> kadek: but right now, that we have two big problems right now. first is waste, second is traffic. is the tourism bad? yes, it has its bad sides, is tourism good, yes of course. right? what is bali? what is balinese people? what is balinese culture? what part of this could be supported by the people who come to bali? what kind of people do we want to come to bali? ♪ >> anthony: i think you've kind of put your finger on something that a lot of people have not. because you don't want to just do yoga, you want to yoga in reasonable distance of this. of these temples. if you come to bali and it looks exactly like cancun, and miami, why the -- get on the plane all

the way to bali? ♪ ♪ >> lawrence: this is one of the three most piratical places on the planet. it's pretty safe around here now, it usen't to be in the earlier days when we were filming here. >> anthony: you first arrived in indonesia in '65 right? >> lawrence: that's right. but it was pretty -- pretty hairy then. >> anthony: given that you arrived at absolutely the worst possible time, what was it about the place that compelled you to

come back? >> lawrence: unexplored regions, tropical animals, ancient civilizations, long memory amongst the people, mysticism. everything a school boy would obviously love. >> anthony: your training, correct me if i'm wrong, psychoanthropology? >> lawrence: yes. >> anthony: now, are there through lines, or, is there any connectivity between belief systems? >> lawrence: they're different, but they're all united by a common theme that they believe in the reality of the invisible world, they believe it's stronger than what we think is the reality, you know, what we can touch and measure and weigh. they would all share the belief that this is illusion. that this is only the surface of another greater reality beneath it.

in that, they're fairly constant. this is nusa penida. this was a penal colony for bali, they put their criminals here. >> anthony: right. >> lawrence: and they also believe that it is the home of the leyaks, the witches, the black magicians. [ speaking foreign language ] ♪ >> anthony: this island has not been invaded like bali. >> lawrence: no, it hasn't. >> anthony: hey, there's a bachelor party going on there. oh, no. just messing with you man. wow, beautiful. expedia introduces add on advantage, a new way to save on travel. now when you book a flight you unlock discounts on select hotels that you can use up until your trip starts. so whether you want to go out, stay in, or be in the middle of it all... add the perfect hotel when you're ready, and save. add on advantage. only with expedia.

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♪ ♪

>> lawrence: wow. >> anthony: that's, uh, that's some big lobsters. >> lawrence: these have to be the biggest local lobsters i've ever seen. >> anthony: wow. in the west, we tend to think of things in a binary way. there's good and evil, life, death. you've seen every variety of human behavior, in this part of the world. always a notion of light and dark, good and evil, just not absolute ones. >> lawrence: you know, we call bali the 'island of the gods', that's a sort of slogan for the tourism industry, but it's equally an island of the demons. i mean, i've always found useful in anthropology this concept of left and right, cranial hemispheres. the left is the thing that we are over-dominant in the west, it handles the rational, practical, consecutive thought. here, it's the opposite imbalance, it's the other way around.

the right is the intuitive, holistic, access to everything we've ever been. >> anthony: that's the right way. >> lawrence: access to our genetic memory, exactly. >> anthony: so they know stuff we don't know. >> lawrence: they definitely know stuff we don't know. ♪ >> anthony: given all the time you spent in indonesia, do you experience life differently or in any way similarly to the way people here look at it? >> lawrence: no, i don't think i do see it the way people here see it. i like to think i can see what it is they're seeing as it were, but i've got a broader perspective because i'm a westerner, i'm a foreigner in a strange land. i'll never be considered an indonesian. i'm enriched by being here because there's a greater variety of human experience going on here. >> anthony: yeah, tell me about the funerals, because we're

attending one. >> lawrence: you are? you will be? >> anthony: yes. >> lawrence: well, a balinese funeral is a very sobering phenomenon, especially for us westerners who distance ourselves from death. they spend quite a long time doing these beautiful offerings, all of it to go up in flames. >> anthony: ah. >> lawrence: so it's an ephemeral art, and the idea is that we too are ephemeral. and this is why it's quite an extraordinary thing, that you actually light the match that consumes your loved one. when it's in your face, that we are not our bodies. because they really believe in an afterlife. they really believe that you will be coming back and you will be joining your ancestors in the meantime. maybe wrong, but it's wonderful to be able to believe that. and to derive all the warmth and strength and benefit of it. is this all human poetry? or is there something in it? >> anthony: yeah, i wonder, i mean i thought about as one does, you know how i want to go, how do you want to go? >> lawrence: i'd be burned. i can handle -- >> anthony: do you want a party?

i mean -- >> lawrence: oh, i'd rather a party, yes. >> anthony: you would? >> lawrence: how about you? you want them all to cry, you want -- >> anthony: no. no, leave me in the jungle. >> lawrence: okay. >> anthony: i don't want a party, reported dead. >> lawrence: okay. >> anthony: you know, what actually happens to my physical remains is zero interest to me, unless it could provide entertainment value. throw me into a wood chipper, spray me into harrods in the middle of the rush hour. that would be pretty epic. i wouldn't mind being remembered in that way. let's go, tablet do. ♪ ♪

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♪ [ speaking foreign language ] >> kadek adidharma: wayang is not necessarily entertainment for the people, most of the time it's performed for the unseen. ♪ that's why it's a shadow play, it's also for the shadow world. balinese have a lot of magical thinking, often we believe that what happens in the real world, is a consequence of what's happening in the shadow world. that's why there's so much

offerings and appeasements. every day we make offerings, love notes, thank you notes, left around to the spirits saying thank you for keeping everything in balance. [ rooster crowing ] so today is the final rites of the human. once the ashes are scattered into the sea, then begin the rites of the spirit. >> anthony: so who will attend the funeral today? >> kadek: the family of course, but cremations in bali are very much a communal affair so the village runs it. it's not just the family. >> anthony: right. people's attitudes towards the passing of a life towards death, funerals, wakes, different here than in the west. no weeping and rending of

garments. >> kadek: there is a lot of -- >> anthony: there is? >> kadek: it's at the bathing ceremony of the body, that is when the mournful event becomes a joyous occasion. >> anthony: right, but the funeral itself? >> kadek: is a joyous occasion, especially the cremation, it's a big send-off, it's a big party sending the spirit to the afterlife. >> anthony: we're not talking about the end. >> kadek: life is cyclical, it's very much a circle. >> anthony: so this is something to be happy about? >> kadek: yes, definitely. ♪ the priest is throwing out rice

along with money. and essentially this action is to confuse and misdirect the spirits that might be trying to follow the -- ♪ >> love it. it's beautiful. >> the idea is that noise shatters the illusion of the unseen world.

♪ ♪ ♪

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♪ ♪ heaven and hell exists here on the mortal plane. no tears should be shed during the cremation ceremony. tears only hold back the soul. at sundown, ashes will be released, returned to the purity of the sea.

time is circular, as is life. this is but the beginning of another journey.

♪ ♪ >> to the left.

>> all stories should end on a beach. all the good ones do, anyway. why should this one be any different?

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