♪ ♪

♪ ♪ i took a walk through this beautiful world, felt the cool rain on my shoulder ♪ ♪ found something good in beautiful world ♪ ♪ i felt the rain getting colder ♪ ♪ sha-la-la-la-la ♪ sha-la-la-la-la-la ♪ sha-la-la-la-la ♪

do you smell that? motorbike exhaust, fish sauce, incense. the far away smell of something -- is that pork grilling over charcoal? vietnam, it could be no place else. ♪ ♪ >> listen to me. listen to me. there is no other way to see

this city, hanoi, than from a motorbike or a scooter. to do otherwise would be to miss it all. ♪ ♪ it is one of the great pleasures of my life to join the river of people rushing through the streets. ♪ ♪ ♪

vietnam, it grabs you and doesn't let you go. once you love it, you love it forever. i've been coming here since 2000. the first time i had been in this part of the world, and it's held a special place in my heart and my imagination since. i keep coming back. i have to. vietnam has changed since last time i was here. it's changing every minute. but some things, for now anyway, remain the same. important things, like this stuff. it's gonna be good.

first meal in hanoi, and it's something they do here better than anywhere else. i'm officially in hanoi now. um, magic. a spicy wonderful broth with tomatoes and herbs and noodles and fresh snails. plump and delicious, look at those beauties. come to me, plump little muscle. hanoi, capital city of vietnam. 7 1/2 million people live here. in the winter it's chilly and damp. in the summer, hot, humid, subtropical. the boulevards and many of the buildings are french. but its heart and soul is always, always vietnamese. americans coming here as tourists for the first time, especially veterans of the war, are shocked by how friendly the

place is. people are genuinely happy to see you. this is hanoi's old quarter, but it's looking less and less old these days. it's changed. the irish/czech theme pub next door. vietnam is a young country. almost half the vietnamese are under the age of 30. fewer every year even remember what they call here the american war. those years were a defining time for just about everyone, vietnamese or american, who lived through them. and although there are still a lot of conflicted feelings back home, for most vietnamese these days, the war has become an be abstraction, not even a memory. vietnam is still a poor nation, but the standard of living has improved a lot with the relaxing of hard line communist economic policies. more and more foreign tourists

every year. western chains inevitably are everywhere. and president obama is visiting for the first time, taking another step on the long path toward normalizing relations between the two countries. that is good, ooh, hot. ooh, i hit that chili hard. ♪ ♪ >> it's such a pleasure. >> and we have beer ready to go. >> yes. we're doing by butter or in a glass? >> how would you do it if i wasn't here?

>> i would put it in the glass. >> okay. >> in vietnam, in particularly in the north, it would be improper for a woman to drink from the bottle. >> okay, i'm glad i know this now. cheers. tao is an eisenhower fellow and fullbright scholar. she's devoted her career to strengthen the bonds between veet nanl and the u.s. today we drove through the outskirts of hanoi, cranes, tall buildings, people moving from the country to the city. mark jacobs, prada. this is a young country now. >> very much a young nation. they like kentucky fried chicken. they like to spend a lot of their time on the internet. the history of our country is a history of war. a thousand years, the chinese and 80 years under the french. and the japanese came in. and when the americans left, finally in 1975, we got involved. so we only have peace since

1989. just in a matter of a few decades. the entire population will be those without any war experience, and that is a great thing. >> and what are we eating today? >> well, we are going to have a -- >> and that means? >> rice roll, very thin. >> like a crab -- >> yes, crab. and inside ground minced pork and mushroom. >> oh. >> you dip it in and there you go. >> um, oh, that's very good. everything we do internationally, someone refers back to the vietnam experience, you know. let's not do that again. >> let's not repeat vietnam. >> i find it interesting that the people who had perhaps the most painful experience were among the first to reach out. i think the john mccain story is

particularly interesting because here's a guy who had an atrocious experience here in prison, and yet he has been among the most vocal supporters of normalizing relations. >> it took several trips to vietnam until you can see vietnam in a different light. it is no longer a war. it's a country with people. >> have you been out with returning veterans from -- >> oh, yes, all the time. >> they often want to go to the area that they served? >> oh, yes. >> they often even meet with the people they fought? >> yes. >> b-52 pilots come to the areas they unloaded their bombs. >> yes. >> what is that experience like? what do you see when they come? >> extremely emotional. extremely emotional. people burst into tears. the memory i kept of you 45

years ago was an enemy. i did anything and everything to protect my life and to protect the people in my platoon. but today when i see you again, not as an enemy, as a person, everything just disappear. all the bad feeling disappear. and now, oh, are you married? how many children do you have? what are you up to? the life turn into a new chapter, and this chapter is a good chapter.

♪ jumping on a trampoline. ♪ flipping in the air. ♪ i never land just float there. ♪ ♪ ♪ i never feel so loved. ♪ la, la, la, la, la ♪

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hanoi in the morning. the usual high-pitched whine of thousands of motorbikes. people and the things they carry coming out to work, to set up shop, the sound of commerce. have a wildly free market

economy in a system that's decidedly not. ♪ ♪ ♪ when i first came here, it was tai chi at dawn. and that's still here. but there's also this. good to see you. >> it's nice to see you, too. >> nice to meet you. >> she's my zumba instructor. >> no zumba for me. breakfast, though, sounds good. >> how often a week do you think the average person cooks, and how often do they eat out? >> they come home for dinner because that's the only meal in the day that everybody can be

together. for other meals normally we eat out. ♪ ♪ >> i meet my old friend ha on the edge of the old quarter, a place known as cassi noodles. >> this is my favorite restaurant. >> the name comes from the owner, known for the frank way she communicates with customers. she usually yells at people. >> yes. [ speaking foreign language ] >> if you go to her to order something and if you indecisive -- oh, can i have this? no, no, maybe i have this instead. she's like, i don't have lots of time for you, so get out here. >> really? >> yeah.

[ speaking foreign language ] >> what's the specialty of the house here? >> it means pig knuckles. >> we know that's going to be good. >> you put up with the abuse for this glorious steaming bowl of rice noodles with spicy chilies, porky broth with pig knuckle and snout. it's the only item on the menu and it's good. >> you know taro? to have this, you have to be very careful. because if you don't do it right you get itchy mouth. not toxic, you won't die from it, but it makes your mouth really itchy. >> interesting. wow, that's delicious. >> when people talk about vietnam, they think about spring rolls and pho. i think this should be in the mix. >> i'm easy. give me some spicy noodles, some

pork, i'm happy every time. [ speaking foreign language ] ♪ ♪ ♪ >> it's a maze of narrow streets and alley ways behind the old french cathedral.

vendors set up stools, and it's happy hour in hanoi. every doorway, every window a little slice of life. a story all its own, lives lived, being lived, caught for a second, a moment, then gone. >> to be friendly? >> yeah. >> well, well, okay. >> yeah. >> we must, we must.

>> cheers for friendship. >> lynn din, my oldest friend in vietnam from the very beginning. many happy memories, my friend. we've been to saigon. he was my original minder for vietnam's ministry of foreign affairs. we came in spite of his official responsibilities, fast friends. >> 1, 2, 3. welcome back. welcome back. cheers. >> thank you. lin has brought me to a uniquely proud and hanoi tradition. it refers to the road side joints where locals drink keg difficult penced draft beer. >> it's between 3 to 4%. >> so we need to drink a lot. >> yes. >> cheers for hanoi beer. it was something luxurious. >> right. >> now it's for everyone. it's not expensive.

10,000 -- that's 40, 45 cents a beer. >> i'll have another. i can afford that. the country has changed so much. when i first came, bicycles and motorbikes. now a lot of cars. >> more cars. >> look, money. people are making -- business is good. i mean, much, much, much more tourism every year. >> yes, yes. people also enjoy life more. ♪

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♪ search the globe and you will find no other place that looks remotely like this. ♪ ♪ haolong means where the dragon descends into the sea. legend says this is where a great dragon charged protecting vietnam from foreign invadeers. war is a congress stant theme in vietnamese mythology and history. the chinese, the french, the

japanese, the americans, the cambodians. again, the chinese. it has become, for better or worse, one of vietnam's most visited destinations. fortunately this time of year, anyway, you don't have to go too far to lose yourself in the past. find a quiet place where you can still imagine the great dragon's tail thrashing and churning and kicking up these great carsks of rock.

chosen mode of transportation, the nro, an old french era steamer. refitted for more current danese. a big freaking boat. and it's all mine. along with friends and crew, of course. ♪ ♪

>> i like this boat. we're living a little larger than last. last time the boat was not this nice. all the modern conveniences, but the charms of the past. it fits perfectly with my over-romantic delusions. in general, it does not suck. ♪ ♪ hello, gentlemen. how are you doing? >> we're having some gin and tonic. >> gin and tonic, traditional vietnamese drink. >> this is my first time trying this. >> wait a minute, you were 5 years old last time i was in haolong bay. lin and i came here for another show, what feels like a lifetime ago. back then i got to meet his son

min who has apparently grown up. >> he has a picture of you. 15 years ago, four years ago. >> oh, my god, look at my hair. it's changed a little bit. over 8 million people coming to haolong bay now? >> every year, tourists. >> all of this is protected, right? you can't do anything on these rocks? >> no. >> how many of these islands, 1900 of these rocks out there? >> 1,969. and this is a good number, you know? >> it's a lucky number? >> 6 is for fortunate, and 9 is for forever. so fortunate forever. >> a drink or two on the top deck, check. now for the rest of the day, try to do as little as possible. a nap. sunset. maybe some more drinks. and what about dinner?

>> one for you. >> oh, thank you, sir. >> cheers, my friend. >> cheers. so, we're eating squid. >> tongues of squid? >> tried to get as many tongues as possible. >> que the majesty of the quid. at night this time of year, the bright lights of the fishing boats are unmistakable. >> the squid in the evening. the light attracts the squids, so they catch them. >> they say because of global warming the fish are dying. but the squid and cuddle fitzpopulation is increasing. soon the sea will be filled with squid. we'll be eating it every day. oh, yeah, those are cute little squid. those are going to be tender. oh, yeah, tentacles are the

best. >> it's very hot. the light, it turn on all night. >> and then sleep all day? >> yeah. >> it's got to be hot out there, man, sleeping in the day. >> cheers for the day. >> cheers for the day. saved an average of $412," syou probably won't believe me. but you can believe this, real esurance employee nancy abraham. look her up online. esurance, it's surprisingly painless.

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♪ ♪ a morning swim. a bowl of spicy noodles. and a view. perfect.

how many in the family? >> six. a young couple and their three kids, and then the grandma lives with them. the oldest kids go with relatives to go to school because they have no schooling here. >> right. floating fishing villages like this used to be found in nearly every sheltered cove of haolong bay. as it becomes a tour est destination, authentic fishing is starting to disappear. they are moving them inland realizing the ecological impact. >> it's generally nice and willing to open the home to us. >> they basically farm oysters. >> yeah, yeah. >> a lot of pearls for sale in ho long bay and vietnam. they come from places like this.

it takes over a year to grow each pearl and there's no guarantee an oyster will even yield one. ♪ ♪ >> that's the most common vegetable in vietnamese in the summertime, yeah. >> what kind of fish are these? little fish. >> holong fish. >> holong fish, yeah. delicious. good fish. this is a pretty prime piece of real estate. they've lived here how long? >> for many generations. over 78 years old. they said this would become like a tourist attraction. >> is this protected by state, they're allowed to live here

because they've been here so long? >> actually the government is asking them to move back to shore because it's nicer for the children's education. [ speaking foreign language ] >> they said they're happy to move because it's better for their children, but they've been living here for many centuries and all they know is fishing. >> right. ♪ ♪ >> just another day in paradise.

a tropical downpour in a working class neighborhood on the outskirts of hanoi. the lady selling vegetables and gum and cigarettes, taking a nap under a piece of corrugated tin has no idea what's about to happen. >> 1, 2, get down. ♪ ♪ ♪ [ cheers and applause ]

>> good to see you. >> mr. president, how do you like it in vietnam? >> love it. markets like these i grew up with when i was a kid in jakarta. these were basically the only markets available. you would buy pretty much everything in stalls like this. yeah, i wouldn't mind going in there and khaggling and seeing what i can find. >> this country, when i first arrived here, smelled like a place i would like. certain countries just pheromonically, they smell good. >> there are certain spices you can smell in certain countries you don't smell back home. there are some smells that aren't as appealing as well. but that's part of the mix, so, yeah. how are you doing, guys? >> how are you?

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♪ ♪

there is something magical about the smell. the minute you touchdown here, it grabs you, captain vindicates you, and chances are, it holds you forever. i'm not the first to feel this way. there is no better place to entertain the leader of the free world, in my opinion, than one of these classic funky family-run noodle shops you find all over hanoi. dinner and a beer costs $6. i'm guessing the president doesn't get a lot of state dinners like this. how often do you get to sneak out for a beer? >> very rarely. first of all, i don't get to sneak out period.

but once in a while i'll take michelle out on a date night. the problem is part of enjoying a restaurant is sitting with other patrons and enjoying the atmosphere. and too often, we end getting shunted into one of those private rooms in the back. >> well, i'm glad i can help. >> absolutely. ♪ ♪ >> all right. you're going to have to -- >> i will walk you through. >> you're going to have to walk me through this. >> we're about to eat bun chop. and it is about as typical and uniquely a hanoi dish as there is. these beautiful little pork patties, grilled pork belly. bun cha is grilled in a broth of sugar or vietnamese for fermented fish sauce.

>> chilies to state. if you have an important state function after, you might not want to -- >> i'll go on with this thing. we're going to do what's appropriate. >> vinegar. >> all right. >> and you hack off noodles, drop them in your bowl. >> that's not too elegant. >> dip and stir, and get ready for the awesomeness. >> i'm ready. is it appropriate to prop one of these whole suckers in your mouth or should you be a little more -- >> well, slurping is totally acceptable in this part of the world, but -- it takes some skills, by the way, to handle these sticky cold noodles. but whatever your opinion of the man, the president has those skills. >> um, i've got to say this is killer. it's really good. >> and we share apparently a sentimentality about southeast asian food in general. >> one of my favorite meals of all time, there is an area between jakarta and bondo,

another city in indonesia. it's up through the mountains. so you'd have these road side restaurants overlooking the tea fields. there would be a river running through the restaurant itself, and there would be these fish, these carp that would be running through. you'd pick the fish. they'd grab it for you and fry it up and the skin would be real crispy. they just served it with a bed of rice. it was the simplest meal possible, and nothing tasted so good. >> a trickier question fraught with peril. is ketchup on a hot dog ever acceptable? >> no. i mean that. that's one much those things like -- let me put it this way. it's not acceptable past the age of 8. >> my daughter is 8. she put ketchup on eggs the other day. i didn't know what good parenting called for at this point. >> an intervention. >> i think so. >> i think you just have to say, you know what? that's not acceptable.

i'm sorry. >> we're at a point where we seem to be turning inwards. i mean, we're actually talking about building a wall around our country, and yet you have been and yet, you have been reaching out to people who don't necessarily agree with us -- gaza, iran, cuba -- i mean, i just wish that more americans had passports. the extent to which you can see how other people live seems useful, at worst, and incredibly pleasurable and interesting at best. >> president obama: it confirms the basic truth that people everywhere are pretty much the same. the same hopes and dreams. and when you come to a place like vietnam and you see former american vietnam vets coming back, when you see somebody like a john kerry or a john mccain, two very different people politically and temperamentally, but who were able to bond in their experience of meeting with their former adversaries. and you don't make peace with your friends.

you make peace with your enemies. ♪ >> anthony: as a father of a young girl, is it all gonna be okay? it's all gonna work out? my daughter will be able to come here. in five years, ten years, she'll be able to have a bowl of bun cha and the world will be a better place? >> president obama: uh, yeah. i mean, i think progress is not a straight line. you know? there are gonna be moments at any given part of the world where things are terrible. but having said all that, i think things are gonna work out. >> anthony: thank you so much. >> president obama: cheers. the dare to give big semi-annual event. lowest prices of the season november 14th to the 18th. only at jared.

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♪ [ singing in vietnamese ] >> anthony: the vast majority of this country don't remember the american war. they don't remember any war.

>> ha: no. >> anthony: you used to be a tour guide. >> ha: yes. >> anthony: for how many years? >> ha: 15 years. >> anthony: 15 years. i know you have to bring people over to the museum, the american war museum, what, every time, right? >> ha: yep. >> anthony: in your lifetime, is there going to be a time when that's not gonna have to be a stop? it won't be necessary. it won't even be important. no one will remember it. or should people always remember? >> ha: i think it's good to remember so we don't make the same mistake, you know? some people choose to be angry, to hold a grudge, but then some people choose to let go and, for the peace inside themselves. that's up to the person. and, i think it's good that, that -- it's important that we know about history. and to make sure it never happens again.

♪ i met a lot of war veterans. and, surprisingly, a lot of them don't feel -- don't have any hate, anger against their old enemies. and that's amazing. that is amazing. i learned so much from them. ♪

>> ha: for vietnamese, we have so many legends. but the majority of legends related to our traditions of fighting against foreign invaders and to protect our country. over the last 20 years of my life, i've seen a lot of changes. and we know that there's still a lot of shortcoming. [ bells ringing ] but everything needs time. we need to be patient. we can't rush because we really don't want another war. >> anthony: general william westmoreland, who commanded u.s. forces here in the mid-'60s, famously said, "the oriental doesn't put the same high price on life as does a westerner. life is plentiful.

life is cheap in the orient." it was an extraordinary grotesque and wrongheaded observation from a guy who, if nothing else, was expected to understand his enemy on the battlefield. he could not, it turned out, do even that. maybe, i hope, we are a little bit smarter now. ♪ [ horns honking ] ♪ [ horns honking ] ♪ [ horns honking ]

what if you were so anxious that you had to isolate yourself from society. >> i'm never not dealing with it. >> what if it were easier for you to deal with pets than with people. >> i can't imagine not living without dogs. >> what if you went to endurance athlete to wheelchair bound in six months. >> this is my life. >> how would you cope? tonight we'll meet three people who overcame their odds by doing something that you might think is a joke.